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Contents
Introducing Cape Town 5
City Life 7
Arts & Architecture 27Wine 39
History 53
Table Mountain National Park 65
Sights 77
Walking Tours 113
Eating 121
Entertainment 135
Activities 149
Shopping 159
Sleeping 171
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
ABN 36 005 607 983
AustraliaHead Office, Locked Bag 1, Footscray,
Victoria 3011,%03 8379 8000, fax 03 8379 8111,
USA150 Linden St, Oakland, CA 94607,
%510 893 8555, toll free 800 275 8555,
fax 510 893 8572, [email protected]
UK7282 Rosebery Ave, Clerkenwell, London,
EC1R 4RW,%020 7841 9000, fax 020 7841 9001,
Lonely Planet 2006Photographs Ariadne van Zandbergen and as
listed (p227) 2006
All rights reserved. No part of this publication
may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or
transmitted in any form by any means, electronic,
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suburbs, home to the vast majority of thecitys citizens. Friendly as Capetonians canbe to visitors, among themselves suspicionsand misinterpretations endure, and if youtake one of the deservedly popular tripsinto the townships (p81) youll be a stepahead of the vast majority of locals.
Seeing life in the townships may shock
and upset, but youll also discover its nota one-note story of grim survival. Thereare huge differences in lifestyle and manygreat examples of civic pride and optimismto balance against the shocking crime andHIV/AIDS statistics. And theres ubuntu,true African hospitality and care for fellow
human beings. Look across the city and youll also see people of all skin colours workingtogether to make Cape Town a better place for everyone. Discovering the Mother Citystrue diversity and spirit is all part of getting the most out of a visit here.
Reality check aside, Cape Town is an old pro at showing visitors a good time. Theremay not be game parks on Krugers scale, but there are plenty of great wildlife-spottingopportunities, from the penguins at Boulders to the antelopes, buffaloes and black rhinoat Solole Game Reserve. The restaurants and bars compare favourably with those of othercosmopolitan cities. Theres a lively cultural scene, particularly when it comes to music,which pervades every corner of the city, and if outdoor activities and adrenaline buzzesare your thing, youve come to the right place. As local troubadour David Krammerssing-along anthem for the Cricket World Cup has it, Welcome to Cape Town/Enjoy theparty/Come in and have some fun/Cape Towns number one.
The capital of Western Cape province and the parliamentary capital of the republic, CapeTown works in a way that so few cities on the African continent do. Historic buildings havebeen saved, businesses are booming, inner-city crime is coming under control and youllseldom be stuck for a parking space. Factor back in those stunning mountains, magnificentsurf beaches and outstanding vineyards and youll soon discover like many before you that its easy to lose track of time while exploring all the wonders of this unique SouthernAfrican city. Now dont you think its time you made a date with Cape Town?
6
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LOWDOWN
Population3.1 million
Time zoneGMT plus two hours
3-star roomaround R800
Glass of wineR10 to R15
Shared taxi rideR3
Essential accessoryCraig Native T-shirt
No-noBanging your African drum on Cliftons No2 beach
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City Life
Cape Town Today 8
City Calendar 9
Culture 12Identity 12
Lifestyle 14
Food & Drink 17
Fashion 18Sport 19
Media 20
Language 20
Economy & Costs 21
Government & Politics 22
Environment 22Climate 22The Land 23
Green Cape Town 23
Urban Planning & Development 26
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Arts &Architecture
Architecture 28Dutch Colonial 28
British Colonial 29
Early Twentieth Century 29
Modern 30
Arts 32Visual Arts 32
Music 34
Literature 35
Performing Arts 36
Cinema 38
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Wine
History 41
Workers Wines 41
Varieties of Wine 42
Winery Tours 43
Wine Regions 44Constantia 44
Durbanville 45
Stellenbosch 45
Helderberg 47
Franschhoek 48
Paarl 51
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www.
SEIDELBERG Map p49
%021-863 3495; www.seidelberg.co.za; OTHER WINE REGIONS
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Wine
WINEREGIONS
%021 863 3495; www.seidelberg.co.za;
Suid-Agter-Paarl Rd, off Rte 101; tastings
with/without cellar tour R18/12;h9am-6pm
Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & SunTucked in between Fairview and Lands-kroon, serene Seidelberg offers an escapefrom the bacchanalian hordes. Uniquely
it features tours and demonstrations ofon-site bronze casting and glass-blowing,with a corresponding gallery. Theres arestaurant offering light meals and terrificviews, perfectly complemented by a strongselection of reds.
OTHER WINE REGIONSIf you have more time, a trip further afield to thewine-growing regions of Robertson (Map p186),Tulbagh (Map p186) and Darling (Map p186) shouldprove rewarding. Named, respectively, the Robert-son Wine Valley (%023-626 3167; www.robertsonwinevalley.com), the Tulbagh Wine Route
(%023-230 1348; www.tulbaghwineroute.com)and the Darling Wine Experience (%022-4923361), these areas are not as tourist-heavy as theCape Winelands yet still boast beautiful estates andexcellent wines.
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History
The Recent Past 54
From the Beginning 54The San & Khoikhoi Peoples 54
First European Visitors 55
The Dutch Arrive 55
The Settlement Grows 56
The British Take Over 57
Cape Economy Booms 57
Boer War & After 58
Apartheid Rules 59
Fictional Homelands 59
Mandela Jailed 60
The Coloured Experience 60Path to Democracy 62
Rise & Fall of Pagad 63
Shifting Alliances 63
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www.lone
Conscious of their core vote in the Cape Flats the ANC-led city council vowed toimprove the lot of township folk by upgrading the infrastructure in the informal settle-ments and investing more in decent low-cost housing, such as the N2 Gateway Project
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elyplanet.com
History
FROMT
HEBEGINNING
g g y jalong the motor corridor linking the city with the airport. Urban renewal projects werealso announced for Mitchells Plain, one of the most populous coloured areas of the city.Meanwhile, the City Bowl and surrounding areas continued to benefit from increasedsecurity and the development of ritzy, loft-style apartments in grand, old structures suchas Mutual Heights (p97).
Full integration of the citys mixed population, though, is a long way off, if its achiev-able at all. The vast majority of Capetonians continue to live in the bleak, impoverishedcommunities of the Cape Flats, split along racial lines and suffering horrendous economic,social and health problems.
Mandela retires as ANC president, succeeded by Thabo Mbeki
1997
First of the returnees to District Six are handed keys to their rebuilthomes
2004
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TableMountain
National Park
History 66
The Land 67Flora 68
Fauna 69
Safety 70
Maps, Books & Websites 70
Sights 71Hiking 73
Climbing Table Mountain 74
Climbing Lions Head 74
Cape of Good Hope Trail 74
Guided Hikes 74Hoerikwaggo Trails 75
Sleeping 76Table Mountain 76
Cape of Good Hope Reserve 76
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Sights
Itineraries 78
Organised Tours 81
City Centre 92
City Bowl & Bo-Kaap 93Gardens & Surrounds 97
Atlantic Coast 99Robben Island 100
Green Point & Waterfront 101
Beaches & Suburbs 101
Southern Suburbs 103
Observatory 104Rondebosch & Pinelands 104
Newlands 105
False Bay &Southern Peninsula 106
Muizenberg 107
Zeekoevlei 108
St James 108
Kalk Bay 108
Fish Hoek 108
Simons Town 108
Noordhoek 109
Kommetjie 109
Cape Point 110
Cape Flats 110
Khayelitsha 111Guguletu 111
Langa 111
Victoria Mxenge 112
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Walking Tours
Art & Architecture Walk 114
History Walk 117
MuizenbergSt James Round Walk 119
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EatingCity Centre 123
City Bowl & Bo-Kaap 123Waterkant 127
Gardens & Surrounds 128
Atlantic Coast 129Green Point & Waterfront 129
Beaches & Suburbs 130
Southern Suburbs 131Observatory 131Constantia 132
Newlands 132
Other Suburbs 132
False Bay &Southern Peninsula 133
Muizenberg 133
Kalk Bay 133
Simons Town 133
Noordhoek 134
Kommetjie 134
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EntertainmentDrinking 136
City Bowl 136Waterkant 138
Gardens & Surrounds 139
Green Point & Waterfront 139
Atlantic Coast Beaches & Suburbs 140
Southern Suburbs 140
False Bay & Southern Peninsula 141
Clubbing 142
Live Music 143Jazz 143
Rock & African 145
Classical 145
Theatre, Cabaret & Comedy 146
Cinemas 148
Casino 148
Amusement Park 148
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Activities
Health & Fitness 150Alternative Therapies 150
Cycling 150
Golf 151
Gyms 151
Health & Day Spas 151
Ice-Skating 152
Swimming 152
Yoga & Pilates 153
Outdoor Activities 153Abseiling & Kloofing 153
Diving & Shark-Cage Diving 153
Flying & Microlighting 155
Hiking & Climbing 155
Horse Riding 155
Hot-Air Ballooning 156
Kayaking 156Paragliding 156
Sailing 156
Skydiving 157
Surfing & Sandboarding 157
Windsurfing & Kite Boarding 158
Watching Sport 158Cricket 158
Soccer 158Horse Racing 158
Rugby 158
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Shopping
City Centre 161City Bowl & Bo-Kaap 161
Waterkant 163
Gardens & Surrounds 164
Atlantic Coast 165Green Point & Waterfront 165
Beaches & Suburbs 167
Southern Suburbs 168
False Bay &Southern Peninsula 169
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SleepingCity Centre 172City Bowl & Bo-Kaap 172Waterkant 175
Gardens & Surrounds 175
Atlantic Coast 178
Green Point & Waterfront 178Beaches & Suburbs 179
Southern Suburbs 181
False Bay &
Southern Peninsula 182Muizenberg & Kalk Bay 182
Simons Town 182
Noordhoek & Kommetjie 183
Cape Flats 183
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Excursions
Wine Country 187
Nature & Hiking 187
Beaches & Swimming 188Scenic Drives 188
Villages & Towns 188
Stellenbosch 188
Franschhoek 193
Paarl 195
Hermanus 198
Gansbaai 201
Greyton & Genadendal 202
Langebaan &West Coast National Park 203
Paternoster 205Darling 206
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Transport 208Air 208Bicycle 208Bus 208Car & Motorcycle 209Rikki 211Taxi 211Train 212
Travel Agencies 212
Practicalities 212Accommodation 212
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Directory
Business Facilities 212
Business Hours 212
Children 213Climate 213
Customs 213
Discount Cards 213Electricity 213
Embassies & Consulates 213
Emergency 214
Gay & Lesbian Travellers 214
Health 214Holidays 214
Insurance 215
Internet Access 215
Legal Matters 215
Maps 215
Medical Services 216
Money 216
Newspapers & Magazines 217Pharmacies 217
Post 217
Radio 217
Safety 217Taxes & Refunds 218
Telephone 218
Television 219
Time 219Tipping & Bargaining 219
Tourist Information 219
Travellers with Disabilities 219
Visas 220
Women Travellers 220
Work 220
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Language
Afrikaans 222
South African English 224Xhosa 224
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Cape Peninsula Cape Peninsula
59
INFO
RMATION
58
57
(pp20812)
TRAN
SPORT
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54
53
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51
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48
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(pp17184)
SLEEPING
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(pp15970)
SHOPPING
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(pp13548)
ENTE
RTAINMENT
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34
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(pp13643)
DRIN
KING
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(pp12134)
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10987654321
112,pp14958)
USC
onsulate...................................
C4
WayneMotors.................................
C2
VirginAtlantic................................(see57)
SAA...............................................(see57)
Lufth
ansa.......................................(see57)
BritishAirways................................(see57)
AirN
amibia......................................
E3
Vicky
sB&B......................................
E3
SouthernRightHotel.......................
C5
Radebe'sB&B...................................
B8
MonkeyValleyBeachNatureResort..
B4
Male
bos..........................................
F4
Majo
rosB&B.................................(see52)
MaN
eo's.........................................
B7
Long
beachMall................................
B5
Long
Beach.......................................
B5
Kopa
nong.........................................
F3
Hunt
ersMoonLodge.......................
C3
Colette's..........................................
D2
Chill
&SurfBackpackers...................
B5
Steen
bergLifestyleVillage...............
C4
MilnertonFleaMarket......................
D1
KirstenboschCraftMarket................
C3
Cana
lWalk.......................................
D1
WestEnd.......................................(see36)
Swingers..........................................
D3
RatangaJunction..............................
D2
MaynardvilleOpen-AirTheatre........
C3
Long
beachMallCinema.................(see50)
Hano
verStreet...............................(see37)
GrandWestCasino...........................
D1
Galaxy.............................................
D3
Skebanga'sBar.................................
B4
Pedd
larsontheBend.......................
C4
Cobb
s...............................................
B6
Caff
Verdi...................................(see38)
Ce
ntre..........................................
B7
TsogaEnvironmentalResource
................
B3
..............(see12)
................(see5)
................
B4
..............(see20)
..............(see38)
................
A8
................(see5)
..............(see12)
................(see7)
.................
B7
................
B3
................
D2
up............
D3
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F4
..............(see32)
................
C4
.................
E3
................
C4
..............(see20)
................
B5
................
B4
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E3
................(see6)
................
D4
.................
E3
................
D2
................
D1
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................(see9)
reness
................
C3
................
C3
................(see6)
................
D3
................
C5
...................B5
..............(see37)
Centre.........
A7
..................
C3
...................F3
..................
C4
..............(see44)
..................
C7
..................C3
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D2
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D2
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INFO
RMATION
58
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(pp20812)
TRAN
SPORT
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(pp17184)
SLEEPING
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(pp15970)
SHOPPING
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39
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37
36
(pp13548)
ENTE
RTAINMENT
35
34
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(pp13643)
DRIN
KING
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(pp12134)
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10987654321
112,pp14958)
USC
onsulate...................................
C4
WayneMotors.................................
C2
VirginAtlantic................................(see57)
SAA...............................................(see57)
Lufth
ansa.......................................(see57)
BritishAirways................................(see57)
AirN
amibia......................................
E3
Vicky
sB&B......................................
E3
SouthernRightHotel.......................
C5
Radebe'sB&B...................................
B8
MonkeyValleyBeachNatureResort..
B4
Male
bos..........................................
F4
Majo
rosB&B.................................(see52)
MaN
eo's.........................................
B7
Long
beachMall................................
B5
Long
Beach.......................................
B5
Kopa
nong.........................................
F3
Hunt
ersMoonLodge.......................
C3
Colette's..........................................
D2
Chill
&SurfBackpackers...................
B5
Steen
bergLifestyleVillage...............
C4
MilnertonFleaMarket......................
D1
KirstenboschCraftMarket................
C3
Cana
lWalk.......................................
D1
WestEnd.......................................(see36)
Swingers..........................................
D3
RatangaJunction..............................
D2
MaynardvilleOpen-AirTheatre........
C3
Long
beachMallCinema.................(see50)
Hano
verStreet...............................(see37)
GrandWestCasino...........................
D1
Galaxy.............................................
D3
Skebanga'sBar.................................
B4
Pedd
larsontheBend.......................
C4
Cobb
s...............................................
B6
Caff
Verdi...................................(see38)
Ce
ntre..........................................
B7
TsogaEnvironmentalResource
................
B3
..............(see12)
................(see5)
................
B4
..............(see20)
..............(see38)
................
A8
................(see5)
..............(see12)
................(see7)
.................
B7
................
B3
................
D2
up............
D3
................
F4
..............(see32)
................
C4
.................
E3
................
C4
..............(see20)
................
B5
................
B4
.................
E3
................(see6)
................
D4
.................
E3
................
D2
................
D1
..............(see44)
................(see9)
reness
................
C3
................
C3
................(see6)
................
D3
................
C5
...................B5
..............(see37)
Centre.........
A7
..................
C3
...................F3
..................
C4
..............(see44)
..................
C7
..................C3
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D2
..................
D2
65 87
3 miles05 km0
ToPaarl(42km);
(20km);
(20km);
0km)
Johannesburg
(1400km)
ToSomerset
West(20km);
Strand,R44(24km);
Gordon'sBay,Hottentots
Hollandberge(30km);
CapeHangklip(50km);
PortElizabeth(750km)
Bellville
Khayelitsha
Mitchell'sPlain
Kuilsrivier
Crossroads
ppi
International
Airport
CapeTown
hilipp
i
Kap
teinsk
lip
Len
tegeur
Mitche
ll'sPlainM
anda
lay
Khaye
litsha
Nonqu
be
la
ldaristown
Mo
dder
dam
Tygerberg
Parow
sies
ver
N1
N2
N2M23
M10
M12
R300
R300
M9
M22
M32
Stelle
nb
osc
hR
d
erRd
Settl
ersW
ay
CapeFlatsFwy
CapeFlatsFwy
486
56
16
57
52
22
24
E
F
4321
CAPE PENINSULA Lonely Planet Publications
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Clovelly
Scarborough
Kommetjie
FishHoek
Bo
ulders
Masiphumelele
Lang
a
Ka
lkBay
Simon's
Town
ATLANTI
C
FALSE
BAY
Bay
Buffels
Chapman's
Bay
Smitswinkel
Bay
OC
EAN
Ka
lkBay
Simon
's
Town
StJames
Entrance
toP
ark
TableMountain
NationalPark:
CapeofGoodHope
Seal
Island
Long
Beach
Capeof
GoodHope
Noordhoek
Beach
Platboom
Beach
Diaz
Beach
Maclear
Beach
RedHill
Cape
Point
FishH
oe
k
Clove
lly
Mu
izen
berg
Slangkop
Lighthouse
DiasPoint
Lighthouse
Paulsberg
See
Simon
'sTown
See
Mu
izen
berg
&Ka
lkBay
Map
(p257)
Map
(p258)
N2
M4
M6
M65
M65
M66
M4
M65
Simon's
Rd
Town
Kom
metjie
Rd
Noordek
Rd
ho
Bennie
St
N'dabeniRd
WashingtonSt
HarlemAve
RubusanaAve
BitterhoutSt
BhungaAve
Merriman
Papu
St
ChurchSt
MendiAve
Was
hin
gto
n
Nkom
oWay
Way
LoerieRd
Moffat
St JungleWk
Nolwa
naWa
y
RhodesSt
Mama
MendiAve
VokwanaW
ay
StChurch
St
Jungle
Wk
Dr
Brinton
St
Innes
St
se
Ro
Settle
rsWay
EATING
(pp77
SIGHTS&
ACTIVITIES
Suikerboss
ie..............................
SilverTree
................................
RiverCaf.................................
NoordhoekVillageFarmstall.....
Mnandis...................................
Lupo's......................................
Lelapa......................................
LaColomb
e..............................
KirstenboschTeaRoom............
Jonkerhuis
................................
Eziko.........................................
WorldofB
irds...........................
VygerkraalStadium...................
VictoriaM
xengeWomen'sGrou
Tygerberg
TourismFacility........
TsogaTou
rs..............................
TokaiArbo
retum......................
Thundercity...............................
Steenberg
Vineyards.................
SololeWellnessCentre.............
SololeGam
eReserve................
SleepyHollowHorseRiding......
SivuyileTo
urismCentre............
RosiesSoupKitchen.................
Rondevlei
NatureReserve.........
PhilaniNutritionCentre............
Mowbray
GolfClub..................
Milnerton
GolfClub..................
ManukaC
af&FineWines......
Group...................................
Kommetjie
EnvironmentalAwar
KleinConstantia.......................
KirstenboschBotanicalGardens
KhayelitshaCraftMarket..........
Kenilworth
RaceCourse...........
JagersWa
lk.............................
ImhoffFar
m..............................
IceStation
................................
GugaSTh
ebeArts&CulturalC
GrootCon
stantia......................
GoldensF
lowers......................
Constantia
Uitsig......................
CapeWineAcademy................
CapePointOstrichFarm..........
Buitenverw
achting....................
AthloneSt
adium.......................
AthlonePowerStation..............
EATING
(pp77
SIGHTS&
ACTIVITIES
Suikerboss
ie..............................
SilverTree
................................
RiverCaf.................................
NoordhoekVillageFarmstall.....
Mnandis...................................
Lupo's......................................
Lelapa......................................
LaColomb
e..............................
KirstenboschTeaRoom............
Jonkerhuis
................................
Eziko.........................................
WorldofB
irds...........................
VygerkraalStadium...................
VictoriaM
xengeWomen'sGrou
Tygerberg
TourismFacility........
TsogaTou
rs..............................
TokaiArbo
retum......................
Thundercity...............................
Steenberg
Vineyards.................
SololeWellnessCentre.............
SololeGam
eReserve................
SleepyHollowHorseRiding......
SivuyileTo
urismCentre............
RosiesSoupKitchen.................
Rondevlei
NatureReserve.........
PhilaniNutritionCentre............
Mowbray
GolfClub..................
Milnerton
GolfClub..................
ManukaC
af&FineWines......
Group...................................
Kommetjie
EnvironmentalAwar
KleinConstantia.......................
KirstenboschBotanicalGardens
KhayelitshaCraftMarket..........
Kenilworth
RaceCourse...........
JagersWa
lk.............................
ImhoffFar
m..............................
IceStation
................................
GugaSTh
ebeArts&CulturalC
GrootCon
stantia......................
GoldensF
lowers......................
Constantia
Uitsig......................
CapeWineAcademy................
CapePointOstrichFarm..........
Buitenverw
achting....................
AthloneSt
adium.......................
AthlonePowerStation..............
10
4
20
33
49
4
5
55
50
29
8
32
542
8
519
5 6 7 8
400m
0.2
miles
0 0
ToMelkboshstrand
SkydiveCapeTown
BluePeter
Langebaan(120
(7km)
ToBloubergstrand,
SeaPoint
Llandudno
Rondebosch
Goodwood
Parow
Clifton
HoutBay
Nyanga
Pinelands
Constantia
Noordhoek
Strandfontein
Milnerton
Observatory
Camps
Bay
Guguletu
ImizamoYethu
Athlone
Maitland
Vredehoek
Bishopscou
rt
Wynberg
Constantiaberge T
okai
Philip
Mu
izenberg
Table
Sandy
Bay
Zeekoevlei
Zandvlei
ATLANT
IC
OC
EAN
Bay
Claremon
t
New
lan
ds
Wreckof
Romelia
Strandfo
ntein
SewageWorks
MinorRoadsNotDepicted
Rondevlei
Nature
Reserve
TableMountain
NationalPark
Table
Mountain
Tw
elv
e
Ap
os
tle
s
Hill
Signal
(352m)
(1000m)
Duiker
Island
FerryTo
Robben
Island(3km)
DiepRiv
er
Acacia
Park
Mon
te
Vista
Ph
Nyanga
Lansdowne
He
idevel
Netreg
La
Vasco
Lang
a
Ottery
Ken
tema
de
La
kesi
de
Steen
berg
Re
trea
t
Wyn
berg
Plumstea
d
Diep
River
Steurho
f
We
tton
Craw
ford
Athlone
Hazen
da
l
Bon
teheuwe
l
Ma
itlan
d
Pine
lan
ds
Nda
ben
i
Ron
de
bosc
h
Rose
ban
k
Mow
bray
Observa
tory
S
altRiver
Goo
dwoo
d
Wo
ltemade
Paardene
ilan
d
Esp
lana
de
Woo
dstock
Cape
Town
Va
lsbaa
i
Els
Riv
Kirstenbosch
MainE
ntranceto
RyecroftGate
Entranceto
Kirstenbosch
Head(436m)
LittleLion's
See
Cape
Town
&Sou
thern
Su
burbs
Map
(p246-7)
SeeHoutBay
Map(p258)
See
En
large
men
t
N1
N1
N7
27R
M14
M5
27R
R102
M18
R310
R310
M63
M4
M5
M17
M64
M42
M3
M6
M6
Rhod
esDr
Chap
Peak
m
Dr
ansche
mat
VictoriaA
ve
River
Spa
Rd
Water
loo Rd
SteenbergRd
HoutBay
Jan
Smu
ts
MainRd
Main
Cons
tan
tia
Ladie
s Mile
an's
BadenPowellRd
Constan
tia
Rd
Tur
f
HallR
d
AvonwoodAve
MarineD
r Koeb
ergRd
Kli
pfo
ntein
Rd
Voortrekke
VanguardDr
LansdowneRd
VanguardRd
27
31 5
3
41
23
2
11
3 21
13
19
7
38
15
43
37
14
39
36
12
35
26
1
25
59
30
40
46
47
58
534
17
18
44
42
A
B
C
D
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