Willamette Humane Society

Dog Foster Manual

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Introduction Welcome, new foster parents! Thank you for participating in the Willamette Humane Society (WHS) Foster Care Program. We appreciate your willingness to open your heart and home to homeless animals. Your dedication allows our organization to rescue animals we would not otherwise have the resources to adopt out. The guiding mission of the Foster Care Program is to give animals individualized care, training and socialization to prepare them for adoption. Additionally, information gathered during the foster process helps us place animals in homes and with families who can best meet their needs. Specific goals of the program include:

Providing a safe, healthy, nurturing environment for dogs, as well as puppies too young to be in the shelter.

Providing behavioral and obedience training to dogs and puppies. Giving our long-term residents time away from the shelter in a home setting. Socializing shy or timid dogs and puppies. Allowing sick or injured dogs and puppies to heal in a relaxing, uplifting

environment. This manual outlines the responsibilities and expectations of WHS’s foster volunteers, as well as the resources and support that you can expect from us. This manual should serve as a resource throughout your foster care experience.

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Mentors

Foster mentors are available to assist new fosters. These are fosters with at least one year of previous experience fostering dogs or puppies. The mentors are proficient with the administration of subcutaneous fluids and bottle feeding or force feeding a puppy. The mentor can answer questions for you regarding puppy-proofing your foster space, behavioral and dietary concerns, and basic health and medical questions. You should contact your mentor with ANY questions or concerns you may have about your puppy’s health or well-being. If you are worried that one of your puppies may be sick, try to get some information together before you call: how long have the symptoms been going on? Is puppy eating, drinking, pooping, peeing and playing? Any vomiting? Diarrhea? If you aren’t sure about the symptoms mentioned above, call your mentor anyway – that is what they are here for. If you do not have a mentor assigned and would like to have one, please call or email the Foster & Rescue Manager. Jacque Bryant: shy dogs, behavioral need dogs (503) 930-8459 (cell) jaccou97@msn.com Jennifer Serjeant: puppies, shy dogs (971) 600-8611 (cell) paipais1mom@gmail.com Krystal Kraig: shy dogs, small dogs (503) 260-3910 (cell) krystalkraig@gmail.com WHS Staff Contact Information

Maryam Shad, Foster & Rescue Manager (503) 585-5900, ext. 303 (office); Thursday – Monday 11-7 (503) 585-5900, ext. 333 (emergency WHS cell; answered 24 hours) Caitlin Forste, Feline Support Specialist (503) 585-5900, ext. 303 (office); Wednesday/Thursday 10-2; Friday 10-6 Chelsea Rock, Behavior & Training Manager (503) 585-5900, ext. 326 Marilyn Peterson, Shelter Trainer (503) 585-5900, ext. 318

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Picking Up Your Foster Animal If you see an email about an animal that you would like to foster, reply to the email. The Foster & Rescue Manager will get in touch with you to set up a pickup time if the animal has not already gone out to foster with someone else. At the time of pickup, you will:

Schedule a time with the Foster & Rescue Manager to come back for revaccinations, vet check, etc. if applicable.

Receive any medications the animal is on, along with instructions on how to administer them, and a form to keep track of when they were administered.

Pick up any additional supplies that you need such as a crate, bedding, food, or toys (based on availability).

Receive any additional care instructions and ask any questions you may have before taking your foster animal home. Foster parents should always use the back door by the crates and Isolation. Please ring the doorbell when you arrive, and a staff member will assist you.

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What to Expect in the First Few Days Depending on the age and overall health of an animal, it is not uncommon to see these symptoms when bringing home a new foster animal: Anxiety – Many animals, especially dogs, can become very anxious being in a new environment. It is very important to provide them with outlets for any anxious energy and give them their space in the first few days. Attempting to escape from enclosures – Symptoms of separation anxiety are very common in shelter dogs. Please continue to the behavior problems section of the handbook. The above are the most common concerns. If you have any other concerns, feel free to contact the Foster & Rescue Manager. Pet Proofing Your Home

Pet-proofing, and especially puppy-proofing, your home is much the same as child-proofing it! That means hiding or removing cords, removing small items that animals can choke on, etc. Use the following tips as a guide to make your foster room and home safe for foster animals:

Make sure that garbage, cleaning supplies and medicines are secure.

Make sure to put all dog/cat food, treats and medicine, etc. where your foster

animals won’t get into it. If you are fostering dogs or puppies, depending on size, they may be able to access items on tables, counters, etc. Take this into account and put things away accordingly.

Watch that hot iron, curling iron, or any other hot or heavy items a rambunctious animal may knock down or pull down upon itself. Use Sticky Tack, a nontoxic gummy substance available in office supply stores used to mount posters on the wall without nails, to tack down small knickknacks and prevent breakage.

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Review the toxic houseplant list and remove all poisonous plants from your household. Or, to deter animals from munching on poisonous and non-poisonous plants, you should spray with a product like Bitter Yuck.

Keep all small items like rubber bands, paper clips, needles, fishhooks, socks,

underwear, loose change, etc – anything an animal can swallow – out of reach.

Never leave razors or other sharp objects in the bathroom or tub.

Keep plastic bags, which can cause suffocation, out of reach.

Exposed electrical cords are a very real danger. Animals might chew them and end up getting an electrical shock – this can cause mouth burns or even death. In case cords in the plastic flexible tubing available at office supply stores. Bitter Yuck can also be sprayed at regular intervals on the cords to discourage chewing.

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Emergency Foster Care Protocol

Recognizing signs of illness and knowing when to call the shelter

Call these numbers in the event of an emergency

On-Call Mentor On-Call Mentor On-Call Mentor Jacque Bryant: shy dogs, behavioral need dogs (503) 930-8459 (cell) jaccou97@msn.com

Jennifer Serjeant: puppies, shy dogs paipais1mom@gmail.com

Krystal Kraig: shy dogs, small dogs (503) 260-3910 (cell) krystalkraig@gmail.com

Foster Program Exam Staff After Hours (503) 585-5900 Ext. 303

foster@whs4pets.org

Monday, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday & Saturday 11:30-7

(503) 585-5900, ext. 319

8AM-7PM; 7 days a week LEAVE A MESSAGE

Emergency Phone 503-585-5900, ext. 333

24/7

It is vital that you leave a message so that we may return your call. If you take a foster animal to any veterinarian without contacting the Foster Care Department first, you will be entirely responsible for any financial obligations incurred.

Signs that require immediate action: Continuous diarrhea- more than 5 days Continuous vomiting-more than 2-3 days

Bleeding of any kind: from nose, in urine

or stool

Any trauma: hit by a car, dropped, limping,

stepped on, unconscious

Difficulty breathing-labored or open

mouthed

A puppy under 4 months of age who hasn’t

eaten for more than a day

Abnormal signs to watch for: Frequent clear/colored discharge from eyes or nose Lack of appetite Lethargy (lack of energy) Diarrhea lasting more than 3 or 4 feedings Vomiting Weight loss Repeated coughing and sneezing Dramatic behavioral changes Anything else that concerns you **It is very helpful to shelter staff & shelter veterinarians if you provide a detailed history of symptoms you’ve noted (e.g., diarrhea: how often, consistency; blood or mucus, parasites? diet- recent changes or treats)

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Socializing Your Foster Dogs and Puppies

First, and foremost, we ask that you treat your foster dog with the same love and care that you give your own companion animals. Once puppies reach 4 weeks of age, daily attention from you and other family members or friends make them more people-oriented and more adoptable. By spending time with your foster dog on a regular basis, you will not only increase their chances of being adopted quickly, but you will also be able to determine their likes and dislikes – this helps us place them in homes with families that best meet their needs. How to Create a Well-Adjusted, Happy Companion What is Socialization? Socialization means to let dogs meet, greet and enjoy a variety of people, animals, places and things. Our job is to expose them at a young, impressionable age to all sorts of experiences in an enjoyable way, without overwhelming them. This helps ensure that they’ll feel comfortable and friendly – rather than stressed, fearful or aggressive – in many situations, around all kinds of people and animals, for the rest of their lives. Why is it so important? Like children, puppies go through a series of developmental stages. The period from 3 to 14 weeks is the critical socialization period, the time when puppies easily form social attachments and learn what’s normal and safe in their world. The earlier in life your puppy experiences things, the more normal they seem to him. Puppies are learning sponges, and their natural curiosity and friendliness outweigh caution or fear. While puppies will still approach most people, locations and objects without fear, we must provide abundant opportunities for them to do so. This helps them readily adapt to the unfamiliar, now and late in adulthood. Research shows that the socialization window starts to close at 12 to 14 weeks of age. After that, puppies become more wary of new things, a phenomenon all animals experience called neophobia. If they haven’t had plenty of pleasant experiences with new people, places, and other animals before that age, they can develop fears, as well as attachment disorders and aggression problems. Undersocialized dogs are a risk to their owners and others because they often become frightened by everyday things, and fearful dogs are more likely to aggress or bite. They tend to fight with other dogs, they don’t adapt to new situations, and routine outings become stressful for them.

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Socialization Dos

Let your puppy take things at their own pace. Let the puppy back away from something if the puppy wants to. Your job is to provide the opportunity, not force anything.

Use treats to socialize. Carry them with you, and give a tidbit to everyone you meet. Ask them to give your puppy a tidbit for approaching or a sit.

Praise & treat your puppy for friendly behavior. If the puppy reacts fearfully or overacts, back away from the person or object until the puppy is calm, then treat the puppy at a distance.

Always supervise dogs and children. Make sure your puppy doesn’t get overwhelmed.

Socialization Don’ts

Don’t force or rush your puppy. Don’t let the experience be unpleasant or scary. Bad experiences at a young

age can create lifetime fear. Socialize gradually, in baby steps. Stages of Puppy Development & Puppy Socialization Recommendations

Stage & Age Physical & Social Development

Care & Management

Neonatal Period Birth – 12 Days

Unable to see or hear Unable to eliminate

or regulate body temperature

Can crawl forward Weak vocalizations

Gentle, daily handling – limit to no more than 2 minutes per puppy

Wash your hands before handling

Respect the mother’s protective & maternal instincts

Transitional Period 13-21 Days

Ear canals begin opening at 5-8 days

Pups begin to hear/react to sound. Hearing gradually increases over time

Eyes open at 8-14 days, react to changing light but unable to clearly see

Crawl forward & backwards, begin to stand & wag tail

Continue handling & talking to pups

Provide stable, safe & secure area but avoid isolation from normal household sounds & activities

Biting, chewing, communal vocalizations begin

Awareness Period 21-28 days (3 weeks)

Able to thermo-regulate & eliminate

Keep their environment stable.

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Able to fully use all senses & able to walk

Deciduous canine erupt

Pups begin to play with littermates

With all the senses fully developed, pups can be on sensory overload

Gently introduce pups to new surfaces

Continue handling, talking, & exposure to normal household sounds

Canine Socialization Period 3-7 Weeks

Learning canine specific behaviors from littermates & mom

Showing appeasement behavior to mother when disciplined

ALL IMPORTANT BITE INHIBITION learning occurs through play with littermate & mom

Begin to understand canine social hierarchy through interactions with littermates & mom

Incisors & premolars erupt

Mother begins to wean puppies

Continue to handle & talk to pups daily. Provide auditory stimulation

Allow plenty of puppy play time

Provide separate sleeping & potty areas within their safe confinement area

During the later weeks, consider short car ride using a crate

Offer short supervised periods of outside time

Human Socialization Period 7-12 weeks

Pups can form deep bonds with humans

All deciduous teeth are in

Pups should be fully weaned

Have brain waves of adult dogs

Can go home with new human family 1st Fear Period Anything scary that happens to the puppy during 8-11 weeks of age. Bad experiences during the fear stage can

Safely expose/socialize pups to as many kinds of humans as possible. Include men, kids, and people of all sizes, shapes and colors

Offer safe, novel experiences, build positive associations & intercede if pup displays fear

Practice grooming, nail cutting, vet visits, using gentle & positive rewards

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lead to permanent phobias as an adult dog

Begin reward-base obedience training, play dates with vaccinated, healthy, dog social adult dogs

Start building everyday life skills

Review the Housetraining Handout & offer separate sleeping & potty areas

Seniority Classification Period 3-4 months

Become more independent

May test hierarchies with other dogs & humans

May begin oppositional mouthing & chewing, review Puppy Mouthing & Biting Handout

Basic manners & obedience training should be well underway

Provide a structured daily routine

Begin “No Free Lunch,” stressing life rewards, review No Free Lunch handouts

Continue to condition pup to accept handling/grooming

Adolescence 4 Months - Maturity

Permanent teeth replace baby teeth

Teething & associated chewing & mouthing intensifies

More independent & may resist coming when called, exploratory, often distracted by environment

Venture off on own Reach sexual

maturity: males begin to lift leg & females go into heat

Lifelong reactive behaviors (growling at unfamiliar people) can form

Keep pup on leash. Reward every time they come when called

Offer multiple items for chewing & redirect chewing onto appropriate items as needed.

Review Puppy Biting & Mouthing Handout

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2nd Fear Impact Period: Puppy may become fearful of new or even familiar situations

Health Concerns

The following is a list of common medical issues you may encounter as a foster parent. This information is not meant to be extensive, just to give you an idea of what common ailments may look like and how they might be resolved. If your foster dog displays any of these symptoms, please let your mentor know:

Sneezing, coughing, congestion with green or yellow discharge from nose and/or eyes

Wheezing, or heavy breathing Diarrhea or vomiting Straining to urinate or defecate Bleeding from any part of the body Lethargy Fever Paralysis Extreme change in attitude or behavior Not eating or drinking regularly Temperature too low (below 98F) or too high (above 104F)

Common Ailments Because most foster dogs are rescued from shelter environments, it’s difficult for rescue partners to ensure that they will always be healthy. A dog who appears healthy at the time of rescue could easily begin to show signs of illness several days later. For this reason, it is very important that foster parents keep their own dogs up-to-date on vaccinations. Common Illnesses in Dogs The following information is intended to help you better understand and recognize some of the more common illnesses in dogs.

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Diarrhea Protocol These are the steps we would like you to take if your foster dogs have diarrhea. When diarrhea is first seen Call the Foster & Rescue Manager to let her know. Feed 1 type of food only. If no improvement is seen in 3 days Bring a stool sample in to WHS. The Foster & Rescue Manager will contact you with the results, and arrange a time for you to come pick up medication (if necessary) and discuss next steps with you. Stop feeding wet food, and only feed dry food. It is ok at this point to try to use lactobacillus/acidophilus – the easiest way to do this is to give the dog a tsp. of plain yogurt each day. If there are no parasites found and still no improvement in 3 days Call the Foster & Rescue Manager to discuss further treatment or whether an appointment should be scheduled with our veterinarian. If the dog is eating well and gaining weight, the diarrhea may not need treatment. Please note that if the dog is vomiting, refusing to eat for more than 24 hours, acting very lethargic, or you notice blood in their stool, you should immediately alert WHS staff following the protocol on your Emergency Contact Form. Canine Distemper Canine distemper is a viral disease that is often fatal. Distemper is most commonly seen in puppies 3-6 months old. Early signs resemble a severe cold. The vaccine for canine distemper is considered very effective. Signs & Symptoms: Eye congestion and discharge, loss of appetite, vomiting, weight loss, nasal discharge, and diarrhea. Transmission: Very contagious. Parvovirus Parvo is a disease that is most common in puppies and young dogs. It causes the sloughing of the lining of the intestinal tract. Parvovirus can survive in dirt for seven years. This means that other unvaccinated dogs can become infected with parvo simply by coming into contact with places where an infected dog has been. A bleach

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solution is the best way to disinfect areas that may have been contaminated. The vaccine for parvovirus is considered very effective. Signs & Symptoms: Lethargy, loss of appetite, vomiting, and diarrhea (usually bloody). Transmission: Very contagious to other dogs, especially through contact with infected feces or vomit. Kennel Cough

Kennel cough is a respiratory tract infection that has been linked to several different viral and bacterial causes. Coughing is usually stimulated by physical exertion or by touching the throat area. Kennel cough is self-limiting, usually lasting 1-3 weeks. Antibiotics are often given to prevent secondary infections. Kennel cough is very common in shelters and other boarding facilities. There is a vaccine for Bordetella, one of the main agents responsible for causing kennel cough. Signs & Symptoms: Cough, runny nose and eyes. Transmission: Very contagious to other dogs. Ear Mites Ear mites are tiny parasites that live in the ear canal. Signs & Symptoms: Itching, scratching, head shaking, dark brown discharge in the ears. Transmission: Contagious to other dogs and cats, but usually requires direct contact with the infected animal. Ringworm Ringworm is a fungus related to athlete’s foot; it’s not actually a worm. Signs & Symptoms: Irregularly shaped areas of fur loss; the skin of the areas will usually appear rough and scaly. Transmission: Very contagious to other dogs, cats and people, but usually requires direct contact with the infected animal.

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Fleas Fleas are tiny insects that feed on the blood of dogs, cats, humans and other animals. Although each flea only consumes a small drop of blood, fleas usually attack in large numbers. Signs & Symptoms: Intense itching and scratching. Transmission: Very contagious to other dogs, cats and people. Roundworms, Tapeworms, and Hookworms

Worms affect a dog’s digestive system. They are most commonly seen in puppies and young dogs. Signs & Symptoms: Large belly, diarrhea, and an inability to gain weight. Transmission: Contagious to other dogs and cats, but only through contact with (and subsequent ingestion of) feces. General and Emergency Veterinary Care

Willamette Humane Society covers all approved

medical expenses for the dogs and puppies in the

shelter’s foster program. General medical care for

Willamette Humane Society foster dogs is provided at

the direction of the veterinarian and veterinary

technician at Willamette Humane Society’s onsite vet

clinic. You should call the Foster & Rescue Manager for an appointment.

Appointments are required.

Once a foster dog or puppy is in your care, you are responsible for transporting him

or her to the shelter veterinarian for necessary medical care. Always use a secure

carrier designed specifically for companion animals when transporting dogs.

Should foster dogs require care from veterinary specialists, Willamette Humane

Society will arrange appointments with approved veterinarians in the Portland

metro area.

Foster parents must not medicate or shave any dogs in their care without prior

approval from their mentor.

If the onsite veterinarian or local veterinary clinics are not available, then you may

be able to seek emergency medical care. Emergency care must be approved PRIOR

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to the vet visit. Call the Foster & Rescue Manager for guidance and approval.

Otherwise, WHS will not reimburse the veterinary expenses. On approval, you will

be directed to one of the following emergency clinics:

Salem Emergency Clinic VCA Salem Animal Hospital

3215 Market St NE 4053 Commercial St. SE

Salem, OR 97301 Salem, OR 97302

(503)588-8082 (503) 581-1438

Be sure to get copies of the medical records of the emergency visit for our records.

Adoption Procedures for Dogs/Puppies in Foster Care Male puppies are made available for adoption at 10 weeks of age and females at

12 weeks of age.

Your mentor will need at least one current picture of each of your foster dogs,

and a short biography for each pet.

Potential adopters must meet the puppy prior to adopting. No exceptions.

If your puppy remains in your home for the adoption process, the Foster &

Rescue Manager will email you adoption applications for you to contact the

potential adopters. If you approve of the person adopting, you will need to

inform the Foster & Rescue Manager immediately.

You are welcome to do the family meet in your home, the adopter’s home, or at

the shelter.

WHS does not reject applications from adopters seeking to keep their dogs

outdoors, but we counsel adopters that keeping

dogs indoors is better for their health and safety.

All dogs and puppies must be spayed or

neutered before they go home. No exceptions.

WHS Dog Adoption Fees

Senior dogs $ 60 and up

Adult dogs $ 100 and up

Puppies $ 125 and up

“Test Driving” a Puppy

While some people may want to

take a puppy home and first see

how it works in their household,

“trial adoptions” are not allowed.

The entire adoption process must

be completed before a pet is

taken to an adoptive home.

Willamette Humane Society’s

open return policy assures

adopters that they may bring the

dog/puppy back to the shelter

within 30 days should the

adoption not work out.

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Returning your Foster Animals

When your foster animals are ready for adoption, you have the following options: Bringing them in for surgery Make your spay/neuter appointment by contacting the Foster & Rescue

Manager. Appointments are always required. Don’t give your foster dog or puppy any food after midnight the night

before surgery (or the morning of surgery). Water is fine. Bring animals to the clinic entrance of the shelter at 7:15 am the morning of

their surgery, or arrange to drop them off the night before with the Foster & Rescue Manager. Please make sure they are secure on a leash or in a carrier.

Unless you have arranged otherwise with the Foster & Rescue Manager, your foster animals will stay at WHS after their surgeries are completed. Please email pictures and a bio for your foster animal to the Foster & Rescue Manager. Your information and recommendations are a big help in finding them the perfect forever homes. If the Foster & Rescue Manager has decided that the animal should go back to you after surgery, it will be ready for pickup at 4:00 pm.

Bringing them to the shelter when they are not scheduled for surgery If your foster animals are ready to come back and have already been altered,

please contact your mentor to make an appointment for you to return them to the shelter. Appointments are always required.

Please email pictures and a bio for your foster animal to the Foster & Rescue Manager. Your information and recommendations are a big help in finding them the perfect forever homes.

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Puppy Classes

Before You Get to Class Do not feed your dog breakfast on class day. If you are taking an evening class, feed only half of their breakfast to be sure that your dog is hungry at class time. What To Bring To Class:

Training Treats—but not just any treats! o Ratings of 8-10: Have your dog sample 5-6 different types of treats, and give them a rating of 1-10 depending on how much your dog likes them. Keeping them interested while in class will require treats that rate no lower than 8. o They should be soft so they can be broken up and eaten quickly o They should be cut into tiny pieces (or easily broken) so your dog doesn’t fill up too fast. o Bring a few types as they will get bored of one kind after a while. Treat Pouch to hold treats—it is important to be able to access them easily and quickly Puppy Pacifier—this can be a pre-stuffed Kong, a pig’s ear, etc., but must be tasty enough to hold your dog’s attention all by itself. Good Quality Leash (4-6 feet long, no retractable leashes) Flat Collar with identification tags (no choke chains, prong-collars, etc.) Front-Clip Harness—optional (must be in addition to the collar; if you are unsure how to fit the front-clip harness, bring it to class and we’ll help you) Appropriate Footwear—no flip-flops or shoes that fall off easily Classroom Locations Classes where you bring your dog take place in the Canine Classroom Enter through the main entrance and park in the parking lot. (Either in front of the shelter, or in the unmarked lot to the left.) Follow the asphalt path to the back of the shelter, go up the steps and into the room marked “Canine Classroom” (door on the right). Questions or Concerns? Please contact the training team at: (503) 585-5900 ext. 326 or behavior@whs4pets.org

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Mouthy & Jumpy Behavior Quick Reference Guide

Are you feeling overwhelmed by an exuberant dog that jumps, mouths, or grabs at you or other people? Don’t worry, the quick tips below can help! These behaviors might be occurring because of normal dog greeting behaviors, excitement, over-stimulation, stress, frustration, or lack of proper exercise. Your dog might also be bouncing and grabbing because it has worked in the past for him to get what he was looking for - like attention! Try to follow this guide, and if you need extra help, feel free to contact our Behavior & Training Department! Lifestyle Choices

Plan to actively supervise your dog for a few months while she learns polite behavior.

Prevent failures by containing her tethered to you on a leash or in a small “dog proof” room, crate, or exercise pen during activities or times she is typically jumpy.

Use a front clip harness or a head halter for more control when out and about.

Keep a drag leash attached at home when you are present so that you can easily manage your dog, if needed.

Children especially should limit their interactions to when the dog is calm and relaxed and under the direct control of an adult who is actively observing the dog’s body language.

Minimize physical, roughhousing type play; instead, use toys for fun and games.

Provide adequate physical and mental stimulation every day. (Refer to More Than a Walk handout.)

Give your dog something to do when you cannot attend to her, such as a stuffed Kong, food toy, or chew treat.

Feed all meals from puzzle/food dispensing toys or during training. No bowl feeding.

When your dog gets mouthy or grabby, encourage her to hold a toy instead of your leash or arm!

Resist getting physical or punishing the dog for these behaviors, as doing such often causes them to escalate or can create unintended issues like fear or aggression.

Watch your dog’s body language so that you can act before your dog does. (Refer to Doggie Language handout.)

Training

Teach an “auto” or “default” sit so that the dog offers a sit when he wants something rather than jumping or grabbing for it.

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Identify preferable behaviors to the “problem” behaviors, and start rewarding the dog when you see him doing what you’d prefer - this could be something as simple as standing next to you instead of jumping!

Practice impulse control skills, such as “leave it” and interspersing play with cuing behaviors the dog knows (e.g. sit or down).

Create humane consequences for behaviors you don’t like by removing what the dog is seeking with his “rude” behavior. Here’s an example: if the dog is jumping to say hi and get attention, then withhold verbal, visual, and physical attention by turning or walking away until you hear the dog standing again. Then promptly reward by turning back to him and calmly interacting. Repeat as needed with leashing up, doorways, food bowls, etc. so that your dog learns that “polite” behaviors pay and “rude” behaviors don’t!

Punishment is usually not recommended because it can create fear, conflict, and/or aggression towards the handler (or unintended persons or dogs who were near when the punishment happened), and/or increase frustration - all of which can lead to more jumping and mouthing, or biting. Plus, they don’t teach the dog what we want them to do.

For more help Watch: WHS has a YouTube channel with playlists on various topics available. Hands On: WHS offers group classes and private training. Questions: You can email the B&T Department at behavior@whs4pets.org. Separation Anxiety Quick Reference Guide

Dogs are highly social animals, and most thrive when they are with their human family. Unfortunately, some dogs experience mild to severe anxiety when they are left alone or separated from their human, and this panic can result in harm to themselves or destruction of property. Separation anxiety is also challenging to live with for families and often complex and time-consuming to improve. We encourage you to contact us if you need further professional help. Lifestyle Choices

Be gentle, patient, and sympathetic - feeling safe is a priority for all animals. Do not use handling or equipment (such as choke chains, prong collars, shock

collars, hitting, or yelling) that cause fear, discomfort, pain, or threats because this will increase anxiety and stress responses.

Do not punish or get after your dog if you come home to a mess; they do not make these because they are mad or spiteful.

Do build confidence, trust, and skills by using rewards-based training. Consider discussing anti-anxiety medications with your veterinarian. Try anxiety aids, such as supplements, Thundershirts, and pheromone

diffusers.

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Find a variety of ways to provide fun, low-stress exercise and mental enrichment to your dog’s daily routine, such as food toys, play, sniffy walks, and trick training.

Unless your dog loves his crate, will happily enter it, and will relax while inside, do not use this when you leave - the small space may increase his distress and become dangerous if he tries to escape. Instead, find alternative safe places for your dog, such as a divided section of the house, pet beds, etc.

During treatment, it is important that the dog not be left alone to experience his full blown anxiety. Find alternative care, such as friends/family, dog sitters, day care, taking your dog to work, etc.

Training

Get familiar with subtle body language of stress by referring to our Canine Body Language YouTube playlist or the “Doggie Language.”

For mild cases: o Provide aerobic exercise to your dog before you leave. o Try making your departure a predictor of great things by providing a

special treat, such as a bully stick, stuffed Kong, or other highly palatable, edible chew, a few minutes before you leave.

o Make your predeparture cues less meaningful to your dog by mixing up your departure routines and by incorporating pieces of your departures during times when you are not actually leaving.

o Don’t make a big deal when you leave or return. For more severe cases:

o Make your predeparture cues predict great things (like chicken) instead of abandonment.

Start with the earliest act of departure when you start seeing subtle signs of stress in your dog.

Progress gradually and only when your dog is happy and relaxed at the current stage.

o Use rewards-based training to teach your dog how to be independent. Train your dog to love staying on a “magic mat” or dog bed and

gradually increase the length of time and the distance you are away from him. Pay him for being on the bed, and just try again if he gets off (no corrections).

Teach “stay* so that your dog can get used to the idea of being away from you. *Note: you won’t use the cue “stay” when you leave.

Train up graduated departures by separating an area of the house with an ex pen or pet gate, providing a handful of treats to your dog, and then stepping just into the next space. Return to your dog immediately. Repeat. Gradually vary the time you leave your dog on the opposite side of the barrier. Then, gradually vary the distance you are away from your dog. Then,

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adjust whether you are in or out of sight. Remember to return to your dog each time.

o When you have built up any length of time of being able to leave your dog while he remains relaxed, begin using a safety cue for your dog that will indicate you will return to him. Then, be sure to return to him before anxiety sets in.

For more help Watch: WHS has a YouTube channel with playlists on various topics available. Read: I’ll Be Home Soon by Patricia McConnell, PhD and Treating Separation Anxiety in Dogs by Malena DeMartini, CTC Explore: WHS’s Trust a Trainer Blog, malenademartini.com, aspca.org/pet-care/dog-care/common-dog-behavior-issues/separation-anxiety Hands On: WHS offers private behavior consultations with Chelsea Rock, CPDT-KA. WHS may refer out to a qualified, accredited behavior consultant or veterinary behaviorist to help with severe cases. Questions: You can email the B&T Department at behavior@whs4pets.org.

Resource Guarding Quick Reference Guide

Would you be offended if someone reached over to your plate and took a bite of food without asking? Would you feel upset if someone sneaked into your purse to take your wallet? Would you feel threatened and shaken up if someone confronted you by yelling and gesturing with their arms and then stole your car? For most people, the answers to these questions would be yes! Many people will even try to prevent these thefts from happening! No one appreciates having things they value taken away from them! Similarly, dogs may find value in things that they possess, be they toys, treats, food, space, tissues, weird treasures found around the house - you name it. Maybe these things your dog values have no value to you, or maybe these things have too much value to you. Either way, your approach to this natural behavior can influence whether your dog shares what he has with you, runs away for a “game” of keep away, or growls and bares his teeth when he sees you come near him and his valuables. Lifestyle Choices

Watch your dog’s body language so that you can act before your dog does and give space when your dog asks for it. (Refer to Doggie Language handout.)

“Dog proof” your home by storing chew or ingestion hazards out of your dog’s reach.

Let your dog enjoy his food, chews, and toys without disturbance.

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If you have children, feed or give chews/treats to the dog in separate areas from the kids, such as a dog-only room, a crate, ex-pen, etc.

Do not physically take things away from the dog. (Refer to YOUR CHOICE Affects Your Dog’s Choice/)

Do offer a trade up with a higher value treat or toy away from the dog so that you have space IF you need to get something dangerous or valuable-to-you from him. Do not punish, “get after,” or chase the dog when he has something you don’t want him to have or even if he shows growling/snapping behaviors.

If he is growling or snapping, it is time to bring in certified professional help. Training

Teach “drop” or “give” with rewards-based training so that your dog is comfortable relinquishing items on cue.

Teach “leave it” so your dog does not pick things up. Learn how in our Life Skills series.

From a distance where he is still relaxed with your presence while enjoying low-value items/foods, practice tossing a high-value treat to him without approaching.

Punishment and threats are counterproductive and will escalate guarding behaviors.

For more help Hands On: WHS offers private training/consultations for personalized help. Questions: You can email the B&T Department at behavior@whs4pets.org. Barrier/Leash Reactivity Quick Reference Guide Does your dog bark, growl, lunge, or snap at dogs or people on leash? Maybe he does these frowned-upon behaviors at your fence or in your car. Dogs often act this way out of fear or insecurity - the best defense is a good offense! Other dogs act this way because their excitement to see people or dogs turns into frustration because they can’t reach them. Either way, it’s a pretty common occurrence, and we can treat it all with similar plans outlined below! Let our Behavior & Training Department know if you need one-on-one help! Lifestyle Choices

Use a front clip harness or a head halter for more control when you are out and about.

Do not use painful or uncomfortable equipment, like choke, shock, or prong collars, as this will increase reactivity and potentially create other aggression issues.

Lure your dog with food past distractions if needed.

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Don’t try to have your dog meet other dogs on leash. Be aware of surroundings and use distance to your advantage. Greater distance decreases reactivity. Choose appropriate walking paths or outings to set your dog up for success. Watch your dog’s body language so that you can act before your dog does.

(Refer to Doggie Language handout.) Training

Play “I Spy.” (Refer to I Spy handout.) Teach sit and eye contact at home and then in different outdoor spaces before

asking for these behaviors on a walk. Practice a “turn & go” pattern so that you can calmly add distance from a dog

or person that might trigger a reaction. Practice impulse control skills at home, such as “leave it” and interspersing

play with cuing behaviors the dog knows (e.g. sit or down). Punishment is usually counterproductive, can increase fear or frustration,

and/or can suppress the symptoms without addressing the cause or providing an alternate behavior.

For more help Watch: WHS has a YouTube channel with playlists on various topics available. Explore: careforreactivedogs.com Hands On: WHS offers group classes and private training. Questions: You can email the B&T Department at behavior@whs4pets.org. Leash Pulling Quick Reference Guide Does your dog think he’s training for the Iditarod? Does it feel like he is taking you on the walk? Pulling on leashes is a common problem with dogs, but it isn’t all that surprising, considering that humans tend to walk much slower than dogs, for much shorter distances than dogs would be able to go, and without nearly as interesting a path or chances to stop and smell the world as dogs would take. Dogs may pull for a variety of other reasons, too - such as excitement, lack of training, strong interest in the environment, lack of other aerobic exercise, a long history of success with pulling, and more. Often times, a quick change of walking gear can dramatically improve your outings, but a better long term approach is to start training now. Try the quick tips below, and if you need more help, contact our Behavior & Training Department! Lifestyle Choices

Provide some high-energy exercise then a period of settle time before going on your walk.

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Use a front clip harness or a head halter for more control. Practice good leash skills by holding with both hands held at your waist or

stomach. Give your dog a longer leash if appropriate to give him more room to be a

dog. Do not use equipment that causes pain (choke or prong) as this could cause

other behavioral issues like fear or reactivity. Lure your dog by holding high value food directly in front of his nose, feeding

him a little at a time to get past distractions if needed. Give your dog something to do on walks like practicing training, eating treats

on the ground, or having him sniff areas of the landscape. Watch your dog’s body language so that you can act before your dog does.

(Refer to Doggie Language handout.) Training

Teach your dog that being next to you is a great place by frequently rewarding him with food treats where the perfect dog would be - right by your leg. (Refer to Teaching Your Dog to Walk Politely On Leash handout.)

Teach your dog it does not pay to pull by stepping backwards until the leash is loosened or the dog is oriented towards you again, then continue forward as a reward.

Teach sit and eye contact at home and then in different outdoor spaces before asking for it on a walk.

For more help Watch: WHS has a YouTube channel with playlists on various topics available. Hands On: WHS offers group classes and private training to help with leash manners. Questions: You can email the B&T Department at behavior@whs4pets.org. House Training Quick Reference Guide We all know that puppies don’t usually come to us house trained! Did you know that most new adult dogs should have a little “House Training 101” refresher course, too? This takes time, patience, and consistency! Here are some quick tips for helping your puppy or dog learn that inside is for living and outside is for elimination. Lifestyle Choices

Expect to actively supervise the new dog for a few months while he goes through the stages of settling in and learning what is proper indoor behavior.

Feed on a schedule so that the dog eliminates on a schedule.

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If you are unable to supervise the dog, prevent failures by containing him on a leash tethered to you or in a small “dog proof” room, crate, or exercise pen.

Have an effective enzymatic cleaner on hand to make sure you can immediately remove all stains/odors from an area where the dog accidentally eliminated.

Dogs going through stressful events or changes may eliminate more frequently.

If your dog has a sudden change in bathroom routines, have your dog checked by your vet.

Training

Choose a specific area where you want your dog to eliminate outside. Frequently take the dog outside to this area on a leash and hang out there

until the dog goes to the bathroom. Do not play or walk around. Just be boring.

Dogs usually need to go to eliminate after waking up, eating, and playing/exercise, and before bedtime. Puppies may need to be taken out as frequently as every half hour initially.

Immediately reward the dog with treats and praise when he eliminates in the designated area. If the dog wants to play or explore the yard, now is also the time for that.

Punishment for accidents in the house is counterproductive, and it often leads to dogs moving to unoccupied rooms to go to the bathroom or fearing to eliminate in your presence.

If you fail to prevent an accident and find it after the fact, just clean it up thoroughly and evaluate your own routine for any potential needed changes.

If you catch your dog in the act of an accident, just calmly interrupt, move the dog to area where he should be eliminating, and reward him for eliminating there.

Questions? For more help, you can email our B&T Department at behavior@whs4pets.org. Fearful & Handling Sensitive Dog Quick Reference Guide Some dogs take a little (or a lot) of time to warm up to new people. Others may bark at, run away, or just be afraid to do anything when they face “scary” things. There are also dogs who seem to be mostly comfortable in their world, but when it comes to grooming or medicating, they put up a fight or just stand there shaking and terrified. If you have a dog who ever feels unsafe or uncomfortable, take a look at these quick tips to make sure you are heading in the right direction. Be sure to contact us for

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more help if your dog is feeling so defensive that he is already growling, snapping, or biting. Lifestyle Choices

Be gentle, patient, and compassionate with the dog - feeling safe is a priority for all animals.

Watch your dog’s body language so that you can act before your dog does. Dogs give lots of body language warnings before vocal or physical warnings that they are uncomfortable and want to avoid conflict. If your dog gives warnings that he is stressed, stop and give space, then evaluate the situation and his training needs. (Refer to “Doggie Language” and “Body Language of Fear in Dogs” handouts.)

Do not use handling or equipment (such as choke chains, prong collars, shock collars, hitting, or yelling) that cause fear, discomfort, pain, or threats because this will increase fear or stress responses.

Be prepared to advocate for your dog so that he isn’t put in a position in which you know he may be uncomfortable and feel he has to defend himself by growling or biting. It’s okay to say no to a person asking or trying to pet them!

Do not force your dog into situations or handling he finds scary or distressing.

Do not make your dog “face his fears” or “deal with it.” Lure your dog with food past scary distractions, if needed. Be aware of surroundings and use distance from things your dog finds scary

to your advantage. Use caution with doors and exit points at home to prevent your dog from

fleeing. Choose appropriate physical and mental exercise so that your dog is not

constantly pushed past his limits and scared. Keep a drag line on your dog when you are both home, if needed, so that you

don’t have to reach directly for him or his collar. Create a safe resting/hiding space for the dog where he won’t be disturbed,

such as an open-door crate, bed, table covered with a blanket, etc. Training

Watch your dog and be sure to reward him when you see any behaviors you like.

Use rewards-based, humane training to build your dog’s trust, confidence, and feeling of safety in the world. Join us for Dog Smart and Bashful Buster to learn more.

Play I Spy! (Refer to our “I Spy!” handout.) Practice a “turn & go” pattern so that you can calmly add distance from a

trigger when needed.

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Work on getting your dog comfortable and safe with handling. (Refer to our “Happy Handling” handout.)

Train your dog to happily wear a basket muzzle for any emergency handling, such as vet visits. (Refer to muzzleupproject.com)

Remember, punishment and corrections are counter-productive with fearful dogs, can increase fear and conflict, and/or can suppress the symptoms (such as growling or snapping) without addressing the cause (fear) or providing an alternate behavior.

For more help Watch: WHS has a YouTube channel with playlists on various topics available. Read Other Handouts: Your Shy or Fearful Dog handout, I Spy!, Happy Handling, Body Language of Fear in Dogs, Doggie Language Explore: WHS’s Trust a Trainer Blog and fearfuldogs.com Hands On: WHS offers a group shy dog class, private training options, and private behavior consultations. Questions: You can email the B&T Department at behavior@whs4pets.org. I Spy Does your pooch cower away from strangers? Does he bark or lunge at other dogs on leash? Here’s an exercise to play that will make him feel more comfortable in his world, whether he is reacting to people, dogs, object - you name it! You can even adjust the concept for fear of sounds or surfaces! Of course, if your dog seems like he might bite you or another dog/person - or already has - our Behavior & Training Department is available as a resource. You’ll Need: High value treats and a spacious area within sight of your dog’s “trigger,” the object that makes him react. Walk the dog at a distance he is comfortable with seeing the trigger. Tip: Grab some of our dog body language handouts so you can learn the more subtle language your dog speaks! Any time he looks at the trigger, reach out with a treat and feed him. You don’t have to say anything! In the beginning, feed even though he may be looking at the trigger. Your dog does not have to do any sort of behavior to get the treat, and he can get one despite “undesirable” behavior. If your dog begins barking, though, it means you are too close. Just turn and go! Once your dog has calmed down, try again. Repeat. The more you do this exercise, the closer you should be able to get to the trigger, but pay attention to your dog’s body language—you should not see stress. As you practice, you can start to feed the treats closer to your body so that the dog is oriented a little towards you, but the nice thing is, even if you skip this step, looking at you becomes a side effect of this exercise!

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Important Tips This is a counterconditioning exercise that changes how your dog feels (and responds) to a trigger. Your goal: Trigger = good things. Your dog does not have to do any specific behavior to get the treat. By feeding your dog towards you, he will also begin to look to you automatically when he sees the trigger! Do not correct, verbally or physically, the dog in relation to the trigger, no matter how he is behaving! If he’s behaving in a way you don’t like, chances are he’s probably too close. Similarly, do not use any gear or handling that causes pain, discomfort, or intimidation such as prong collars, shock collars, choke collars, yelling, jerking on the leash, poking, hitting, rolling a dog over, etc. These methods and tools often backfire by making the problem worse or creating other unexpected problems. If your dog is demonstrating aggressive behaviors or giving you or others considerable warnings while you try to work on this, please STOP, GIVE SPACE, and REASSESS. You may need to contact a behavior consultant in order to keep everyone safe.