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OLD GUARDA plaster version of a terra-cotta warrior adorns the wall of a restaurant in Nanluoguxiang, one ofBeijing’s oldest neighborhoods.

BACKSTREETBEIJINGNanluoguxiang, an ancient lane in the heart ofthe Chinese capital, has emerged as an atmospheric hub for dining, barhopping, andshopping. But can the hutong’s historic spiritsurvive its present-day popularity?

BY RON GLUCKMANPHOTOGRAPHS BY JASPER JAMES

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E RC H E D AT O P A F LY I N G P I G E O N B I C YC L E ,a decade or so ago, one could cross central Beijing and rarely spot acar, a high-rise, or any other reminder of the advent of the 21st cen-tury. Traveling by hutong, as the narrow alleys in the city’s ancient coreare called, you’d roll along mesmerizing medieval lanes, past steam-shrouded noodle stalls and clusters of old-timers chatting overrounds of mah-jongg. Men hooked birdcages in trees and crowdedaround card tables, while housewives hung laundry or sorted throughvegetables. Every so often, a coal cart would wheel by. Savoring suchscenes in the shade of gnarled trees or some centuries-old temple, youcould easily forget where or—more beguilingly—when you were.

This was before Beijing won its bid to host the 2008 Olympics andembarked upon a frenzy of demolition and redevelopment. Someobservers estimate that 90 percent of old Beijing is now gone, or soonwill be; what hutongs remain are clogged by cars, construction, andcranes. This only serves to heighten the joy of being able to stroll downNanluoguxiang, one of Beijing’s oldest—and hippest—laneways.

Dating to the Yuan Dynasty, when the Mongol emperor KublaiKhan made Beijing his capital, Nanluoguxiang (pronounced “nahn loo-ah goo shiyang”) can look back on more than 700 years of history. Sit-uated north of the Forbidden City near the landmark Bell and Drumtowers, it’s also just east of Houhai Lake, once a docking site for boatsferrying goods up the Grand Canal to the imperial palace. Houhai’sparklike environs also served as a playground for the local elite, whobuilt grand mansions and beautiful gardens along the lakeshore.

Nanluoguxiang itself was originally home to the minstrels, artists,poets, and puppeteers who entertained the Beijing gentry; make a detourdown any of the eight side alleys that earned Nanluoguxiang such col-orful monikers as Centipede Lane or Fishbone Street, and you can stillstumble across an array of venerable theaters. By the time of the Qingdynasty, the area had become home to generals and government min-isters, with many still-extant houses boasting carved brickwork, granddoorways, and stone lions. Resident luminaries in the 20th centuryincluded painter Qi Baishi and literary icon Mao Dun. When my wife

CHANGING LANESClockwise from above: Saturday crowds on Nanluo-guxiang, an increasingly popular destination for localsand visitors alike; yogurt shops are the latest fad in the area; overlooking the neighborhood’s clay-tiledrooftops. Opposite: Xiao Bian’r at his Pass By Bar.

For all its history, Nanluoguxiangwasn’t even on most maps untilfive or six years ago. Now, it’sBeijing’s most celebratedstretch of boutiques and cafés,with small hotels tucked into former courtyard houses

and I first moved to Beijing on a six-month contract in 1990, we werealso fortunate enough to live here.

For all its history, Nanluoguxiang wasn’t even on most maps untilfive or six years ago. Now, it’s Beijing’s most celebrated stretch of bou-tiques and cafés, with an array of pubs and even small hotels tuckedinto former courtyard houses. Yet the surrounding hutongs still offervisitors a rich glimpse of an old Beijing that is fast disappearing.

Kicking off Nanluoguxiang’s transformation was the Pass By Bar,an unassuming hangout that wouldn’t have attracted much attentionin Kathmandu or Khao San Road. But in Beijing a dozen years ago itseemed downright revolutionary, with photos of Tibet on the walls andtravel books targeting China’s new bohemians. Nearby, Plastered T-shirts created clever alternatives to the standard “I Climbed the GreatWall” souvenir shirts. The street soon became a magnet for creativetalent, sprouting teahouses, cafés, and shops catering to foreign vis-itors and resident hipsters.

While some complain that overdevelopment and commercializa-tion is ruining the hutong’s authenticity, others argue that despite itspresent-day bustle, Nanluoguxiang has remained true to its historicroots. Says local guidebook author Eric Abrahamsen, “The area firstbecame a commercial hotspot in Yuan times. Then it became the siteof teahouses and shops selling luxury goods from southern China. Sointerestingly, it probably had a fairly similar character centuries agoas it does today.”

Indeed, Nanluoguxiang is one of China’s rare preservation successstories; in 2009, Time magazine included it on a list of “25 AuthenticAsian Experiences.” But the question is, for how long? Already thereare signs that it is becoming a victim of its own success.

Businesses report staggering rental hikes, sometimes 500 percent.Already, this has forced many pioneering establishments to relocate,like Indian restaurant Mirch Masala and chip shop Fish Nation. Nextcould be Saveurs de Corée. The name reflects the time Hong KongerChow King-tai spent in Montreal, where he met his Korean wife. Aftermoving to Beijing in 2005, the couple spent nearly US$40,000 to con-vert a grimy Nanluoguxiang fuse factory into a chic two-story Koreaneatery. As the neighborhood has blossomed, Chow finds himself in abattle with his landlord, who wants to quadruple the rent. “I’m justshocked to see so many of the people who built this district being forcedout,” says Chow, who is scouting new locations elsewhere in town.

“Landlords have gotten greedy,” says Plastered’s outspoken Britishowner, Dominic Johnson-Hill, who has lived in Beijing since the early1990s. An unofficial ambassador for Nanluoguxiang, Johnson-Hill isa regular on local talk shows, where he laments the neighborhood’sdescent into crass commercialism. “What made this special were theunique creative talents that came here,” he tells me. “As rents go up andcool shops are forced out, I worry that Nanluoguxiang will wind uplike any other part of Beijing, with all the same crap.”

The founder of the Beijing Cultural Heritage Protection Center(CHP), He Shuanzhong, has similar concerns, and not just about Nan-luoguxiang. “One problem is the government’s ‘World City’ concept.Beijing and Shanghai both had this idea to destroy all the old quartersand make new buildings.” Developments like Xintiandi, which remadean old Shanghai neighborhood of shikumen (“stone gate”) houses intoa trendy shopping and nightlife area, emphasized the commercial poten-tial of historical property, He says. “Now, they think, you can save some

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STYLE TO SPARELeft, from top: Inside the lobby of the Duge hotel, whichoccupies a traditional courtyard residence on a sidelane off Nanluoguxiang; local hipsters. Opposite: Theretro Sandglass Café on Mao-er Hutong was one of the first coffeehouses to open in the neighborhood.

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parts of the old city, but only if they have cafés or bars. Otherwise, there’sno value; it’s just old.”

The CHP office is on Fangjia Hutong, a lane that is itself under-going a Nanluoguxiang-like transformation, with old buildingsbecoming art houses, boutiques, and cafés.

“Cultural heritage needs to be real and living,” He adds. As a worst-case example, he points to Qianmen, a perverse nightmare for preser-vation advocates. A historic neighborhood south of Tiananmen Square,it was razed, than rebuilt like a theme park of China at the turn of the

last century, complete with a fake tram. “That’s a complete failure,” Hetells me with disgust. “They totally destroyed the cultural heritage ofthe area. Nobody lives there now, the businesses are empty. It doesn’teven look historic.”

According to Michael Meyer, author of The Last Days of Old Beijing, central Beijing had 7,000 hutongs in 1949. By 2005, the num-ber was only 1,300. “I think Beijing will take its place alongside othergreat world capitals—London, Moscow, Paris, Rome—and haveuninhabited, sterile architectural museums and a pocket of inhabited,lively communities that will attract tourists looking for the ‘real’ Bei-jing,” Meyer says. “It’s a pity that the city could not forge a new, uniquelyChinese solution to preserving its neighborhoods.”

Then there is the question of whether Beijingers even want to savethe old neighborhoods. Last autumn, the CHP screened two docu-mentaries about the modernization of Beijing. Both featured interviewswith hutong evictees who proudly showed off shopping facilities in theirnew apartments, as well as previously unimaginable amenities likeindoor plumbing and microwaves. Even those stubbornly remainingin areas earmarked for redevelopment seemed less concerned aboutthe loss of traditional community than they did about ramping up theircompensation packages.

Still, local preservationists find encouragement in rare victories,like the recent suspension of alarming plans to raze the hutongs aroundthe Drum Tower. The CHP spearheaded opposition to the US$735 million scheme, which would have built shopping malls and under-ground parking in a well-preserved Ming-era neighborhood.

“The government needs to look carefully at each building, and appre-ciate how these neighborhoods grew organically, house by house,” Hesays. “Beijing doesn’t realize what treasures it has. I hope it’s not alllost before they do.”

IF YOU WANT TO GAIN A SENSE of the magnificence of Beijingcenturies ago, head to the Forbidden City. You can bike along the ancientwalls, and then follow the moat around the watchtowers. Parks, lakes,and island pagodas are all visible along an ancient axis that alignedimportant structures with the former imperial palace. To the south isthe Temple of Heaven, and due north, my destination on a recent out-ing, are the bewitching Bell and Drum towers, which, in the era beforeclocks, served as the court’s timepiece.

This was a bleak route when I first visited Beijing in the winter of1990. Beijing’s wide boulevards were virtually CONTINUED ON PG.102

PASSING THE TIMEClockwise from above: Hanging out at the Pass By Bar,where walls are covered with photos from the owner’s trips to Tibet; mah-jongg is a pastime forNanluoguxiang’s old-timers; Nanluoguxiang on a quietday. Opposite: The courtyard at the Duge hotel.

New threats to Nanluoguxiangemerge all the time. Wreckingcrews are razing old houses at two locations along Ping’anDadao. One site will become amaze of gated communities; theother will host a subway station

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carless then, and the intersections were fillednot with Mercedes sedans, but with thousandsof bikes and carts, some motorized, otherspulled by horses or even oxen. In the hutongs,mounds of cabbages were piled to the roofs ofstone-cold houses, providing the only color inthe grim grayness of the coal-stoked city.

Now, the same roads are bursting with cars,color, and tourist shops. Buses disgorge vis-itors in identical baseball caps, tailing bullhorn-bleating leaders on pilgrimages to one mockrecreation of Old Beijing after another. Door-ways are draped with kitschy souvenirs: pandahats, blue Haibaos (the Gumby-like mascot ofthe recent Shanghai Expo), and Chinese capswith dangling Manchu hair braids.

Eluding touts, I pedal north to Ping’anDadao (“Peace Big Boulevard”), itself reno-vated a decade ago when the governmentdecreed that it should serve as the new mainstreet of Old Beijing. Old courtyard houseswere razed, replaced by three-story imitationsthat to this day remain empty.

Turning onto Nanluoguxiang proper, Ihead up to my old street, Ju’er Hutong, whereI lived in 1990. Back then, foreigners weren’tpermitted to reside within the Old City lim-its, though this single lane was an exception.Several long-term expats, including writerslike Peter Hessler, lived here. They became thefirst customers of early neighborhood estab-lishments like the Pass By Bar.

The Pass By’s owners, Xiao Bian’r and HaiYan, embody Nanluoguxiang’s unique spirit.Xiao Bian’r (he’s been called that for so long,he sometimes forgets it’s a nickname—“LongHair”) is an artist who has done design workfor outfitters like Black Diamond and Patag-onia. He’s also a keen adventurer; the strikingphotos hanging in his bar are from bike tripshe’s taken annually to every part of Tibet.

Hai Yan, whom he married in 1998, a yearbefore they opened the Pass By, says they weredrawn to Nanluoguxiang because it was therare Beijing neighborhood where young Chi-nese and foreigners could freely meet. Astheir business grew, they moved to a biggerlocation nearby. Some T-shirts printed forfriends spawned a gift shop. Neither of them

ever thought of becoming an institution. “We opened the bar mainly as a place for

our friends to hang out. Everything else camenaturally,” Hai says. “We never had a plan.”

That laid-back approach provided theDNA for the rebirth of Nanluoguxiang. “Itstarted as a celebration of Old China from theforeigner’s point of view,” says Johnson-Hill.“The location was good and we all worked tokeep it from turning into another bar street,so all the businesses were distinct. We hatedhow the crowds and all the loud bars destroyedthe Houhai area.”

New shops and old prospered graduallyside by side. “That was a good time, when theforeigners first started coming,” recalls Mrs.Liu, who has sold yogurt from a grocery storefor as long as anyone can seem to remember.“Back then, we liked to watch the visitors. Nowit’s different. Everyone comes to drink, not toenjoy the street.”

She adds, “Most of the original residentshave left, too. Housing has gotten so expen-sive. I have mixed feelings. It’s still interest-ing—people come from all over. But it’s sonoisy and messy now.”

Several merchants have pulled together toform a local chamber of commerce. “We wantto regulate what kind of businesses come in,”says Xu Yan, head of the group, and owner ofTaste restaurant. A committee would decidewhether businesses had an original approachbefitting the character of the street. “This isthe oldest hutong in the world. Everyonecomes to Beijing to see its history.” He is con-fident the character and quality of Nanluo-guxiang can be maintained. “This is a culturalrelic. It’s like a pearl necklace; if every store isgood, it will be a beautiful necklace. If one isbad, that necklace will be ruined.”

Still, new threats to Nanluoguxiangemerge all the time. Wrecking crews are raz-ing old houses at two locations along Ping’anDadao. One site is destined to become a mazeof gated communities—multimillion-dollar re-creations of hutong homes for the city’s newlyrich. The other will host a subway station.

Can Nanluoguxiang’s offbeat spirit sur-vive? Pedaling around my old neighborhood,I marvel how, even amid the daily throngs oftourists, I can duck down a familiar lane andfind that little has changed. Around the Belland Drum towers, kites fill the sky and cardtables and chestnut stands draw crowds. Afterthe tourist rickshaws and tourists depart, thesquare fills with dancing, as it has for decades.Yet, outside my former home on Jue’er, I seepiles of sand and cement. And across thestreet, the venerable Youth Child Theateradvertises a production of Zombie Park.

“The environment has really changed,”sighs the Pass By’s Hai Yan. “Before, it wasmore like friends; we knew everyone, andtalked all the time. Now, the customers aremostly tourists. Nanluoguxiang has becomea tourist attraction.”

Glumly, she surveys her bar. All the tablesare full, and there’s a line out the door. Mostbusiness owners would be ecstatic, but not HaiYan. “I just hope we can hold on to what wasspecial about Nanluoguxiang.”

THE DETAILS NANLUOGUXIANG—WHERE TO STAYDuge CourtyardBoutique Hotel The best of Beijing’shutong hotels islocated 50 metersoff Nanluoguxiang. Itoccupies a traditionalcourtyard property,with 10 themedguest rooms doneup with shimmeringdesigner interiors. 26QianyuanensiHutong; 86-10/6406-0686; dugecourtyard.com; doublesfrom US$241. —WHERE TO EATSaveurs de CoréeLooking to relocate,this small, chicKorean eatery is fornow one of the bestin Nanluoguxiang,with a romanticrooftop terracethat is perfect for people watching. 29 Nanluoguxiang;86-10/6401-6083.Tapas Cafe & RedDing Coffee Greatnibbles and goodselection of Beijing-style cuisine, set in an atmospheric courtyard. 149 Nanluoguxiang; 86-10/8401-8856.Sandglass CaféThis pint-size café—one of the area’s old-est—delivers retrocharm and great coffee amid a roomfilled with old books,curios, and antique

furniture. 1 Mao’erHutong; 86-10/6402-3529.—WHERE TO DRINKPass By Bar The onethat started it all. 66 Nanluoguxiang;86-10/6402-5086.Cambulac A hutonghideaway off themain strip, with aserene courtyardsetting and a fantasticselection of wines. 32Beibing Masi Hutong;86-10/6402-7707.12sqm Talk abouttruth in advertising:this 12 square-meterestablishment couldbe the smallest bar in Beijing, but lacksnothing in style. 1 Fuxiang Hutong;86-10/6402-1554.Guitar Bar Likesomething out ofWayne’s World, thislong-popular hauntfeatures banks ofspeakers and mixers.Who cares if themusical enthusiasmexceeds the actualtalent? 40 Nanlu-oguxiang; 86-10/6405-7263.—WHERE TO SHOPPlastered T-shirtsStocked with scoresof clever, colorful,quirky slogan shirtsand accessories. 61 Nanluoguxiang; 86-10/6407-8425.Letian Pottery Club Popular with localsand tourists alike, youcan buy or make yourown pottery andceramics. 23 Nanlu-oguxiang; 86-10/6401-3799.Navel Original if off-the-wall streetwearby designers GaoWenzhe and Li Ning. 53 Nanluoguxiang;86-132/4142-9407.

BEIJINGCONTINUED FROM PG. 99

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