Digital Camera Cleaning and MaintenanceDigital camera cleaning and maintenance is something

many photographers (including myself) neglect to do with sometimes costly consequences.

It is too easy to come home after a days shooting, whip out the memory card, have a play with your new images and forget all about maintenance of your kit.

If you are like me, anything new that I buy over time (car, motorbike, watch, glasses etc), get cleaned immaculately at least once a day. Then after a few weeks it falls to once a week or so and then just "on the odd occasion" or when they look really dirty.

Because photography is my livelihood, I have to physically make myself grab my camera bag, go and sit somewhere quiet and take a good half an hour to an hour after a shoot to clean every piece of equipment that I have used.

This kit has cost thousands and its cleanliness has a direct bearing on the quality of my images and the longevity of its use. Not only that but as I upgrade my equipment, I may want to sell on my old cameras at the best price.

These are the checks that I make;

Digital Camera Cleaning and Maintenance - Lenses

Obviously take great care when cleaning the glass, it is what makes the lenses so expensive and costly to repair or replace. Use only fine tissue paper and alcohol solutions that are designed for camera optics. Clean both the front and rear elements using a blower brush first to remove any dust particles.

The last thing you want to do is scrape even the smallest piece of dust across your lens.

I also use the bristles of a blower brush to clean in between the moving parts of the external barrel. This prevents a build up of dirt over time and maintains smooth operation whilst helping to prevent dust from entering the internal optics.

Make sure you clean the brush or replace it often too otherwise you simply end up smearing minute particles of grease and dirt onto the lens.

Digital Camera Cleaning and Maintenance - Camera Sensor

The most talked about and asked about issue with Digital SLR maintenance is the sensor and the accumulation of dust. If you are altogether unsure of how to go about it, wait until any sensor dust is at a point where it is unbearable (most specs are easily and quickly removed in editing), and then take it to be professionally cleaned.

Damaging a sensor is expensive...

If you intend to do it yourself, just be careful. Set the camera to manual with a 30 second exposure. You will need time to clean the sensor but using the bulb setting ("B") could be a mistake.

If whilst cleaning the sensor, you accidentally close the shutter you are in danger of damaging the mirror, shutter, sensor or all three. Even if you use a remote release set to "B", the batteries on the remote could give out and close the shutter prematurely.

With a fully charged battery in your camera and a 30 second delay, you know where you are.

Once the shutter is open, hold the camera up so that the sensor is facing down, and use the blower (without the brush) to blow any dust away from the sensor.

N.B. The camera is held this way to allow any dust to fall out of the camera and the brush is removed in case it touches the sensor and adds grease smears or dust to it rather than removing it.

If the sensor is really dirty, you are able to buy cleaning kits with swabs where you physically touch the sensor to "swipe" away dirt. Again, you need slight of hand and great care to do this so if unsure, seek professional help.

Digital Camera Cleaning and Maintenance - Mirror/focussing screen

Unless I can barely see through the viewfinder (exaggeration), I tend to leave the mirror and focussing screen alone apart from a quick blow/swipe with the blower brush. The only time I would give it more attention is if it were to run the risk of transferring dust to the sensor.

Dust on the mirror or screen has no effect on the final image so any dust you see on these through the viewfinder, won't affect the photograph (although excessive dust on the screen "may" affect the accuracy of focussing).

Once again, be careful as the mirror in particular is extremely sensitive and easily scratched.

Digital Camera Cleaning and Maintenance - Outer casing

Even though it is mostly aesthetic, it is still important to try and keep the external workings clean. The dirt on the outside can easily make its way inside, particularly if you change lenses often with dirty hands.

I give it a quick once over with the blower brush first and then a quick rub with a lens cloth or dustcloth. I usually do the outer parts before the inner. This reduces the chance of dirt transferring itself inside.

Digital Camera Cleaning and Maintenance - Accessories

Most accessories have mechanical or electronic workings so it is just as important to keep these clean to help with their longevity. For example, the battery contacts in a speedlight or remote switch need a quick clean now and again just to prevent any build up of dirt or even rust.

A failing accessory can be as disastrous as a failing camera in certain situations, especially paid ones.

Digital Camera Cleaning and Maintenance - The Bag

This is something that many people wouldn't consider but the quickest way for cameras, equipment and accessories to become dirty is if you have a dirty camera bag or holdall.

Dust, dirt, sand and even bits of Mother Nature (leaves, grit etc) are easily accumulated when out and about.

Remove all equipment once in a while and just Hoover/vacuum the bag thoroughly inside and out.

All of this seems a bit tedious but once I have done it I feel surprisingly good and happy with myself. I also know that when I go out shooting or turn up to a paid job, the equipment is in tip-top condition.

Digital Camera Care and Maintenance Basic TipsThe dawn of digital camera technology has undoubtedly offered limitless choices for professionals and neophytes alike to come about with the best possible photographic results. There is a wide array of camera options ranging from compact digital cameras to large DSLRs. Each type and class has its own strengths and limitations therefore making the task of shopping for cameras complicated. Nevertheless, it will still boil down to the type and specifications that each person is looking for.

It is a common knowledge that digital cameras don't actually come cheap. With each digital camera, there will usually be an assortment of features and utility levels which will make a good camera well above a thousand dollars. Leading digital camera brands include Canon, Nikon and Sony.

Probably the most essential parts of a digital camera are the lens, viewfinder and the LCD screen. These parts should be regularly cleaned and maintained. These sensitive components such as a Canon camera LCD screen should never be bumped or have a battery put against it inside the camera case. It is also important to invest in good quality lens cleaning equipment such as a good lens brush, a lens blower and lens cloth. A blower will help remove the dirt while a lens cleaning solution removes sticky particles on the lens. Another important reminder is to protect the cameras eyes by always putting on the lens cover when the camera is not in use.

Another important aspect of taking care of your digital camera is storage. It is recommended that the camera be stored in a cool and dry space. Always keep the camera out of the sun and from cold temperature. Digital camera batteries should also be taken out when the camera is not in use. Remove the batteries if you intend to store the digital camera for a long time. Also keep in mind that magnets of any kind should also be kept away from the camera. This is for the reason that a magnet may affect the circuitry of the camera.

Aside from the structure of the digital camera, camera accessories such as memory cards should also be taken into account. As these accessories are small, they should always be handled with utmost care. It should not be taken out while in the process of transferring images from the camera. It should be stored appropriately to prevent misplacement and ensure safety.

Taking care of your most prized digital camera is imperative to make certain that they will last for a very long time. Even if you purchase the most expensive brand, there is still no guarantee that your digital will overcome the wear and tear of the years of usage. As much as possible, you need to protect it from abuse and neglect. When you notice any damage or malfunction to any part such as the LCD then it is important to find someone who can affordably provide you Canon LCD screen repair services. Remember that your camera costs a lot of money and it certainly pays to take good care of it.

Digital Camera MaintenanceUse These Tips for Maintaining Your Camera

Although today's digital cameras are pretty reliable pieces of hardware, they do fail from time to time. Sometimes, they fail because of manufacturer error. More often, they fail because of user error and a lack of digital camera maintenance.

Use these digital camera maintenance tips to keep your camera in the best possible working condition.

1. Avoid dirt and sand. Use care when cleaning dirt particles and sand from your digital camera. Do not use canned or pressurized air to clean the sand, as you might just drive the particles into the camera case. Budget priced camera cases might not be sealed perfectly, making it easier for grit and sand to penetrate the case and cause damage. Gently blow out the grit and sand to avoid this problem. Use care when shooting photos on a windy day at the beach, too, where sand can blow with excessive force. Avoid opening the battery compartment on such days.

2. Avoid liquids. Try to keep all liquids away from the camera, unless you have a model with a waterproof case. Cameras are like any piece of electronics, and they can be damaged by excessive water.

3. Avoid touching the lens and LCD. Oils from your skin can smudge the lens and LCD, eventually causing permanent damage. Clean the lens and LCD with a microfiber cloth as soon as possible anytime you see a smudge from your fingertips.

4. The lens and sun don't mix. Do not point your camera's lens directly at the sun for any length of time, especially with a DSLR camera. Sunlight focused through the lens of the camera could damage the image sensor or even start a fire inside the camera.

5. Use cleaning liquids with care. Avoid using an excessive amount of cleaning liquid with your camera. In fact, other than stubborn smudges, you should be able to clean the camera with a dry microfiber cloth. If a liquid is needed, place a few drops of the liquid on the cloth, rather than directly on the camera. Water can be used in place of cleaning liquid as well.

6. Vacuum the bag. Dirt and sand inside your camera bag could damage your camera, so be sure to vacuum the bag regularly to keep it clean and protect your camera.

7. Watch the temperature. Although some cameras are designed to survive harsh temperatures, most cameras are not. Do not leave your camera in a sunny vehicle, where temperatures quickly can exceed 100 degrees Fahrenheit. Avoid leaving the camera in direct sunlight, which can damage the plastic. Finally, avoid extreme cold, too, which could damage the LCD.

8. Use neck straps and wrist loops. Admittedly, this is more of a "preventative" maintenance tip, but be sure to use neck straps and wrist loops with your camera whenever possible as you're shooting photos outside. If you slip while hiking, or if you lose the grip on your camera near the pool, the straps can save your camera from a potentially disastrous fall. Better safe than sorry. (If you do drop the camera, click on the link to try some troubleshooting tips.)

Digital camera maintenance doesn't have to be difficult. These simple tips show that keeping your digital camera clean can be fairly easy and can help you keep the camera in working condition as long as possible.

Digital Camera Maintenance Tipssandro | Jan 05, 2011 | 0 comments

We put a lot of time and money into our hobbies. It only makes sense to take care of the equipment we buy through maintenance. Whether you are a beginning hobbyist with a digital point and shoot type camera or someone who has taken years to build their knowledge and equipment, taking care of your gear will help you take better pictures longer. Photographers tend to be gadget junkies, but rarely do they take the time to care for all of the gadgets they acquire. Maintenance not only gives your gear longer life, but it enables your gadgets to work optimally. Our biggest and most expensive piece of gear is our camera. Here are some tips that will help you get the most out it for years to come.

Grit, Grime, & your Camera

Today’s digital cameras are full of moving parts that will not operate properly if they are filled with grit and grime. The best thing you can do is be very careful when shooting in areas that are sandy or dusty. Take special care when you are changing lenses. You have to consider your camera sensor and internal components and the lens. The quicker you can make the swap the better. Always have the lens you are planning to switch to handy and ready to go before you take the lens you are using off the camera body. Keep the opening to the camera body out of the wind while making sure to keep the opening pointed downward. This will help keep falling and blowing bits of debris out of your camera body. Put the new lens on as quickly as you can without damaging anything.

No matter how hard you try to keep dirt out of the camera and off the sensor, it is going to happen. If you are making your shots happen, instead of letting them happen, you will want to change lenses in the field. This means you are going to expose the interior of your camera body to the elements and it will need cleaned. Some attempt to clean their DSLR sensor themselves. I do not recommend this at all. Unless you are a trained professional, you really do not know what you are doing. One of the best maintenance tips I can give you is this: Leave the techno stuff to the pros! You can damage your camera badly enough that you would end up needing to replace a very expensive piece of equipment. Do your best to keep it clean, and when it gets dirty, take it to a professional and get it cleaned. If you are not sure if it is dirty or not, then it might be a good idea to find a good local pro camera shop, take it in, and see what they will charge for an inspection and cleaning.

Proper Care and Cleaning of Lenses

First, you are probably using filters right? If you are not, then you should be. At the very least, every lens you use should have a UV filter on it. The UV filter not only helps with glare, but it also protects your actual lens surface. When you get a new lens, the very first thing you should do is ensure it is clean and scratch free, and the second is apply the proper UV lens. Keeping this filter on at all times reduced the chances of dirt and other foreign matter obstructing or damaging the coating on your lens. When the filter gets dirty, you can clean it with a normal cleaning kit much easier than you can clean a lens. If something happens that causes damage to your filter, it is much easier and less expensive to replace than getting a new lens. If your lens is not protected by a filter, go buy one and use it. If your lens in dirty, make sure you follow the recommendations outlined in your user manual for cleaning your lens.

Damage and Abuse

A true photographer goes where the shots are. This means (sometimes) exposing ourselves and our gear to harsh conditions. Make sure you use all of the straps possible in order to keep your gear safe. It is not uncommon for people to drop expensive gear while trying to get a shot. Make sure you are aware of obstacles and other hazards if you are moving during shooting. You don’t want to end up like the guy in the video and possibly ruin thousands of dollars worth of equipment because you didn’t look behind you.

Corrosion is Bad

We rely upon batteries to power our gear. Make sure you regularly check your batteries and you charging unit for signs of corrosion. If you begin to see the signs of corrosion, you can clean the corrosion away with some rubbing alcohol and ear swabs. If the condition persists, you may have a bigger problem with your battery. Check for cracks or other signs of wear. It might be time to replace the battery.

Basic common sense is your best tool in keeping your gear up to par. You probably already know that you should not point your camera directly into the sun. You probably already know that temperature extremes are hard on your camera. If you use your brain and take your time, you will find that the best maintenance for your digital camera is prevention and common sense. Keep these things in mind while you are out shooting, and you will be sure to continue to practice the art of photography for years to come.

Some Tips for Caring for DSLR Camera

Storage is worth noting, keep the camera in a cool place (not too hot and not too humid) and protected from dust. You can buy special storage cabinets camera but the price is still relatively expensive. For an alternative, you could buy a glass cabinet / timber that is cheaper, attach it 5watt lights in it and set the distance from the light into your camera around 40cm for the temperature inside the cupboard can stay cool. Then put some silica gel to prevent mildew. It is advisable to buy Dry Boxes, because more secure in the camera storage.

How to save

Save the camera should also be considered. Make sure the camera laying position is correct, your camera is clean before storing. for storage in a long time was to remove the battery from the camera to avoid over-charging. For D-SLR camera, remove the lens from the camera body was before saved. If you bring a camera in traveling, save your camera in a special bag to avoid the camera shake.

Avoid excessive sun rays

Excessive hot sun can damage your parts camera made of plastic and rubber and electronic components in it.

Avoid camphor

Avoid camphor : camphor is a thing that is in fear by the camera, because camphor can damage the PBC (printed circuit board) that is the place where the electronic chip camera was attached. Camphor Vapor can also create spots spots on your camera lens. According to the news of damage to the camera that is caused by camphor is very difficult to repair and maybe even can not be improved anymore..

Avoid sea water

Sea water is very dangerous for the camera, keep the camera from splashes of sea water, sea water is very bad and cause corrosion potential of the camera or other electronic devices. For D-SLR camera users, not allowed to replace the lens on the beach let alone at sea, because sea water vapor in the wind can blow into your camera and can damage to the inside of your camera . After hunting on the sea or the beach immediately clean up your camera because the grains of sand grains that contain salt can cause rust on the camera part made of iron.

Clean camera

Clean your camera after use or at least once a week. Use a soft cloth or a camera special cloth that normally wear glasses to wipe clean the body and the outside of the lens to the front of the lens, and the filters you can use a special wipes lens cleaning. To remove dust using a soft brus, makeup brush and camera blower. All of the equipment, can be found at your nearest camera shop in your town.

Regular service

Service on a regular basis, not allowed to disassemble the camera if not expert.

Care and Maintenance of Your Digital CameraApril 19, 2009 by admin Filed under Digital Camera Tips

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After spending money on a quality digital camera, it is important to take the time to maintain it properly. Your camera will last much longer if you take preventative measures to keep it in the best condition.

The most important, and delicate, component of your digital camera is the camera lens. This serves as your window to the world, and once scratched it will require professional intervention to fix. For this reason, it is imperative that you protect the lens. First of all, when you are not

taking photos your lens cap should always be on to keep the lens clean. Do not touch the lens directly with your finger. The oils left behind by your skin will be difficult to remove, making the view blurry at best. If your lens should get dusty or dirty, use a cleaner and cloth made specifically for cleaning camera lenses.

The body of your camera should also be kept clean and free of debris. Keep the camera in a case or pouch when not in use. If it should get dirty, wipe it down with a soft dry cloth. If you camera has an LCD panel, it is acceptable to breath lightly on it to add slight bit of moisture before wiping it down with a soft cloth.

Digital cameras should be kept dry. Most cameras are not waterproof, and should not be in situations where they could be submerged in liquid or even splashed. If your camera should get wet, it is a good idea to turn it off, remove the battery, and remove the memory card. Leave the camera out to air dry for one to two days. At that time if the camera is not functioning properly you will need to contact a professional repair company or the manufacturer for advice.

In general, your camera will do best if stored in mild, dry conditions. Extreme temperatures can be damaging so try not to leave your camera in your car or any super sunny locations. Another good idea is to save the silica gel packets that come with many purchases to prevent moisture damage, and place them in the drawer or container where your camera is stored. If you plan to store your camera for a long period of time without use, you should first remove the battery from the camera. This precaution will prevent damage in case the battery should leak.

Finally, if you are planning to take photos in a location where you believe there will be a higher risk of damage from water or soil or other conditions purchase a disposable camera and leave your digital at home. Better safe than sorry.

Maintaining your equipment is part of the investment. Simple cleaning and maintenance can make sure you get the most enjoyment and life from your digital camera.

Lens Maintenance — Protect Your Priced Possession

November 26, 2008

in Equipment

Have you ever been worried about the maintenance of the lens you have been using? Its obvious for two reasons. One, you have invested so much of money in buying a good quality lens, you can’t afford treat it badly – you shouldn’t. Second, good lens becomes one of the major factor behind good quality photographs. Lets have a look at some tips on how to take care of your Lens and how to do regular maintenance. Before any tips, follow this rule of the thumb, few years back when I was still learning the basics, a professional photographer told me “Whenever you use a camera the first thing you do is hang it around your neck with a good quality strap. It will avoid the camera and the lens from crashing or hitting any object unless you fall flat on your face”.

A lens accumulates dust and grit all the time. If you visit the sea coast you’d notice the moisture settling down on the lens. Good maintenance can avoid (or postpone) the need of cleaning the lens. Let’s see what precautions we can take for the maintenance.

Lens Hood

A lens hood or lens shade should be attached to a lens in order to block the bright sunlight or other light source to reduce the impact of glare on the lens when you take pictures. Apart from this, a hood also protects your lens if by chance you scratch the lens to any wall, or anything else while you are carrying it in your hand.

UV/ light filter

It’s recommended to use a UV filter or any plain sunlight filter on the lens. UV filter blocks the UV rays getting into your camera and changing the colors of your photograph. Also, protects the outer glass of your lens from scratches. You will have to clean the filter only not the lens. But one thing to keep in mind, if you have invested good amount of money in the lens, make sure you buy a good quality filter. And don’t worry, extra glass doesn’t spoil your pictures but can improve their colors.

Cleaning of the lens

It’s very important to learn how you can clean the lens of your DSLR yourself and understand the Do’s and Don’ts of it. Cleaning the lens is a very tricky exercise and requires expertise and precaution. We’ve covered this in detail in how to clean the camera lens.

Basic Camera CareBy Liz Masoner, About.com Guide

Similar to your photographic lenses, the 3 main enemies of your camera are:

• Dirt• Shock

• Water

DirtDirt is everywhere! Its in the air, its under our feet, and all too often its on (and in) our cameras. While dirt on the outside of your camera is not a problem (excepting the lens of course), its the potential the dirt has for getting into your camera that is the problem. Dirt in a camera can effect moving parts, damage mirrors, clog electronic contact points, get on film, and stick to digital sensors.

The best course of action for dealing with dirt in your camera is to avoid it. The vast majority of shooting situations will not cause a dirt problem for your camera. However, some situations are recipes for problems. Beaches, deserts, horse races, motocross, swamps, and other areas are prone to more dust and dirt than everyday usage. In order to protect your camera it is best to use a rain hood for your camera. Rain hoods are vinyl/nylon pouches made for specific cameras that allow you to still reach camera controls while protecting the camera from environmental conditions. You can purchase these at your favorite camera shop or make your own using a large zip bag. To make your own cut a hole for your camera lens in one side of the bag and use the zip end to put your hands through to the controls. You will have to carefully secure the bag to the camera lens using tape or a rubber band. Be sure to use a large enough bag to allow for lens movement if you are using an SLR type camera.

Another time that dirt gets into a camera is during lens changes and film loading. If you are not careful when changing lenses or loading film a lot of airborne dust/dirt can enter the camera body. To minimize dust during lens changes turn the camera facing down and press the lens up into the camera. This prevents dust from falling into the camera body. When changing film, keep the camera horizontal instead of tilting it forward.

ShockNothing will send a photographer's heart into her stomach like seeing a camera doing a triple salchow across a paved parking lot (trust me, I've done it). With the exception of some older fully manual SLRs made of metal, there are very few cameras that can survive a fall onto a hard surface from a height of even a few feet. Outside of fully encasing your camera in shock resistant materials, all you can hope to do is avoid camera shock. There are some very common causes of camera shock.

• Broken Camera Strap

• Camera Bag Left Open

• Non-Use of Camera Strap

• Placing the Camera on Unstable Support

The best way to avoid these problems is to just pay attention. Check your camera strap and its connectors regularly for wear or signs of damage. Make it a habit to double check that your camera bag is proper closed before picking it up. Use the camera strap whenever using your camera. It is there to catch the camera if you fumble it. Never use questionable support for your camera. Fence edges and railings at scenic overlooks are not acceptable support. Use a tripod on stable ground.

WaterWater doesn't react well with film or digital sensors. Nor does it react well to batteries or any electronic parts. If your camera is not made for underwater use or encased in a waterproof housing, keep it out of water. Use a rain hood during bad weather (even heavy fog can cause problems for some cameras). If conditions would cause eyeglasses to fog when moving from indoors to outdoors or vice-versa, there is a good chance your camera could suffer internal condensation. Use a camera bag to insulate your camera and allow it to change temperatures gradually. If your camera does get wet (more than a few raindrops) there are only a few things you can do.

• Open the camera (if possible) and turn it so that the water can drain freely.• Wrap the lens in a very absorbent towel once all water has drained that will drain. Do

NOT blot the camera's internal workings.

• Take the camera to the nearest professional repair shop immediately.

Noob guide to taking good care of your DSLR

I have decided to do this guide as I was basically unprepared and surprised by the amount of work needed to take good care of a DSLR, especially when I have splurged tons of money on it. I tried to search the net for a complete guide but only managed to get bits and pieces on this topic. As such, I have decided to compile the information into a complete guide to enable super noobs like me take good care of my DSLR.

All information are pulled from the net and references are quoted in brackets and listed at the end.

Index

A) DSLR - General care

1) DSLR Camera bag2) LCD screen protector3) Caps4) Filters5) Shoulder/neck strap6) Lens hood7) Batteries8) Changing lenses9) Moisture condensation

B) DSLR - Cleaning and maintenance (Quick link)

C) DSLR - Storage (Quick link)

D) Li-Ion battery packs (Quick link)- important facts which most of us don't know!!!

E) DSLR bags (Quick link)

F) References

Important : Most of my pictures are Sony brand as I bought a Sony alpha 550!

Main contributors1) ieR - much thanx for giving me much info.

This post has been edited by kmarc: Apr 22 2010, 06:49 PM

kmarc Jan 21 2010, 06:27 PM

Show posts by this member only | Post #2

Technology is too slow!

A) DSLR - General care

1) Camera bag

It is important to get a good DSLR bag that fit your usage. It should be well-padded and big enough to fit all your accessories but still able to protect the camera in case of an accident (e.g. knock against a hard object, bag dropped, etc). Some would recommend getting one with a hard case rather that a soft one (1). Thin cloth bags are convenient but might not protect you DSLR that well from external bumps or drops.

Here's an example of a good DSLR bag:

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Kindly read post #6 on DSLR bags for detailed info regarding DSLR bags.

2) LCD screen protector

Make sure you buy a good LCD protector to protect the LCD from scratches. Cheap ones would be adequate but you'll find that it will eventually get many scratches and become unsightly. A better alternative would be a "glass-type" of LCD protector as below:

Source of picture : http://www.uxsight.com/product/9581/lcd-sc...-dslr-a350.html

How to install a "glass-type" LCD protector : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wNian6sDRAg

3) Caps

Camera cap (@ body cap) - Left picture belowEnsure that you always cap your camera if you intend to remove the lens for prolonged periods of time for whatever reason (e.g. storage, lens cleaning, etc).This will prevent dust from going into the camera and settle on the camera mirrors or sensors.

Lens cap - Middle picture belowIt is important to cap your lens anytime you are not using the DSLR. This will reduce the chance of the lens becoming dirty or worse still, the chance of the lens being scratched. A scratched lens would be expensive to replace and will not be covered under the normal warranty.

Rear lens cap - Right picture belowAgain, if you remove your lenses for prolonged periods of time, it is important to cap the front AND back of the lens.

Note : If you go for outings, it would be wise to bring all the caps along just in case you might need to remove the lens for whatever reason. The convenient thing about camera cap and the rear lens cap is that you can screw them both together to carry as a single piece.

Body cap and rear lens cap screwed together:

4) Filters

To further protect your lenses, it is also advisable to get a clear protection filter or a UV filter to attach to the front of the lens. This will ensure that any scratches or knock to the front of the lens will hit the UV filter rather than the lens itself. In case such a thing happens, you can easily replace the UV filter which is relatively cheap as compared to replacing the lens elements.

In addition, in case your front lens get dirty, it is actually the filter that gets dirty and not the front lens element. As such, you can clean the filter without any worries. This is especially true if something sticky gets stuck in front of the lens which require you to wipe more vigorously to clean it.

UV filters are usually cheap but try not to get a cheap lousy filter as it may interfere with proper light penetration and cause poorer pictures being taken.

Good reputable lens filters available locally are like:1) B+W2) Hoya3) Carl Zeiss

Note : The UV blocking function in UV filters are actually not necessary for DigitalSLR (DSLR) but only for film SLR. That's because the digital sensor of a DSLR doesn't react to UV light. In the era of SLR using films, UV light can cause blur and can react to many colour films to cause a blue cast (10).

Here a good review of filters : http://www.lenstip.com/113.1-article-UV_fi...troduction.html- the only problem with this review is that it takes into consideration the UV blocking capabilities too, which as mentioned earlier, is not necessary. However, the review do mentioned that the UV blocking function might be useful at high altitudes due to higher UV radiation.

5) Shoulder/neck strap

Every time you lift up your camera, make it a habit to immediately put strap around your neck. That way, you'll reduce the risk of dropping your camera.

Alternatively, you can coil your arm around the strap for added protection. This video shows you how to hold your camera properly including the coiling of the strap around your arm : Click here

In case you want to let someone use your DSLR (nobody touches mine!!!), make them wear the strap around their neck while handling your precious DSLR!!!

6) Lens hood

The primary function of the lens hood is to prevent stray light from entering the lens as it extends and shade the front end of the lens. This is especially true if you shoot in the direction of the sun, causing unwanted artifacts in your picture such as lens flare, decrease contrast and image degradation.

By using a lens hood, you'll also get the added benefit of lens protection from any accidental impact or bumps. Accidental touches and scratches are also reduced. However, lens hood are only usually used when you shoot outdoors under bright sunlight or shoot under extreme lighting condition as protection again impact is secondary.

Just in case you don't know how a lens hood looks like on a camera, here's a picture:

Summary of advantages of lens hood:1) Reduce unwanted flare2) Richer colour/deeper saturation, improved contrast3) Protection from impact or accidental touches/scratches4) With a lens hood, many argue that you don't need to use a UV filter (which might degrade your images somewhat)

7) Batteries

One equipment that is often overlooked is the rechargeable batteries used in DSLR (or any electronic devices actually). The most common rechargeable battery nowadays are Lithium-Ion (Li-Ion) batteries which, like any other rechargables, have a certain lifespan.

Important : I was very surprised to find out about crucial important facts on Li-Ion batteries. Please read on the details of Li-ion batteries below, in the "D) Li-Ion battery packs" subsection.

8) Changing lenses - keep the dust away!

Most DSLR users (including noobs!) will usually have more lenses than they do cameras. As such, lens changing is unavoidable. As we all know, there is always a chance that dust can get into the camera every time you change lenses. Here are some tips to reduce this risk when you change your lens:

1) Minimize lens changing if possible

2) Change your lenses before you go out e.g. to the beach3) Avoid dusty places4) Turn off camera5) Point your camera downwards - like you want to take picture of the ground 10 feet away (no need to point directly downwards!)6) Change while the camera is on a tripod7) Keep your back to the wind

Videos on how to change lenses (so easy!!): Noob way to change lensesAdvanced noob way to change lenses (lol!)Camera-hanging-around-neck lens changing techniqueIf-you-have-big-enough-hands lens changing techniqueSuper-glued-2x-rear-lens single-hand lens changing technique (got battery trick too!!!)No-hands-professional lens changing technique

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

9) Moisture condensation

Be careful if you take your DSLR directly from a cold to a warm place as this may cause moisture condensation outside as well as inside your camera e.g. from an air-condition room to outdoors, from car to outside. An extreme example is like the time you take out a can of soft drink from the fridge and leave it on the table. You'll see beads of water forming on the can in no time!

The condensation may cause a malfunction of the camera and also promote fungi growth.

To prevent this, you can do a few things BEFORE you take it to a warm environment:1) Seal your camera in a plastic bag (e.g. Ziplock bag or even normal plastic bag) and allow it to adapt to conditions at the new location.2) Keep your camera/lens in your camera bag and let it warm up gradually.3) If you got none of the above, some even use towels!

The key point is that you want your camera to gradually warm up to the same temperature as it's surrounding environment. Sony instruction manual mentioned that you actually might have to wait up to an hour depending on condition! The higher the temperature difference, the longer you'd have to wait.

If you don't know what a ziplock bag looks like, take a look below (Don't mind the

tomatoes!!!):

If moisture condensation occurs, turn off the camera and wait about an hour for the moisture to evaporate. Note that if you attempt to shoot with moisture remaining inside the lens, you will be unable to record clear images (Sony instructionmanual)

This post has been edited by kmarc: May 22 2010, 05:32 PM

kmarc Jan 21 2010, 06:31 PM

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In progress.....

B) DSLR - Cleaning & maintenance

Cleaning kitBuy a proper cleaning kit to clean your lenses. Please do not use toilet

paper and water!

Here's an example of what a good cleaning kit should include:1) Lens cloth (preferably micro-fiber type)2) Lens cleaning solution/liquid3) Lens brush - to remove dust at the edge of the lens4) Air-blower - to remove dust particles on the lens

Alternative - lens pen

In addition, it is recommended that you bring your cleaning kit along if you're planning to go for an outing. If you do get your lens dirty during a photo shooting, you are prepared with a proper cleaning kit rather than becoming "Macguyver" and use your t-shirt to clean the lens.....

Note : Hence, make sure your bag is big enough to fit your gears including the cleaning kit!

Cleaning your cameraTo a pro, cleaning a DSLR is no doubt simple. However, to super noobs like me, it can be a daunting task because if you're not careful, you might just damage those sensitive parts of the camera.

Cleaning lenses @ UV filtersThe important thing about cleaning lenses is prevention.

Cleaning the sensorIf you're a noob, most people would recommend you to send your camera to a professional for cleaning the sensor rather than doing it by yourself. The sensor is a very sensitive piece of equipment and if you

do it improperly, you might just damage the sensor. You also risk exposing your camera's inner workings to dust if you open it at home.

Maintenance after beach session, rain, etc....

Thx to wtm0325 for the following contribution:

Canon DSLR ViewFinder Dust CleaningSource: http://shimworld.wordpress.com/2009/08/24/...-ii-viewfinder/Note: Each Canon DSLR Model might be different (eg 400D will need to dismantle the whole black bracket before taking out the glass)

DSLR Sensor Cleaning using Dry WaySource: http://www.naturescapes.net/phpBB3/viewtop...1&view=previousNote: If rocket blower doesn't work, a normal size lenspen LP1/mini pro (need not lenspen sensorklear) can do the job for medium sticky dust, the only con is it might not able to clean the corner dustInstructions: » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

This post has been edited by kmarc: Apr 19 2010, 12:41 PM

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C) DSLR - Storage

Storing your camera and lenses

If you're not using your camera for extended periods of time, it is advisable to store your camera in a suitable place. In our country where the climate is humid, the best place to store it is in a dry box.

What is a dry box?A dry box (@ dry cabinet) is a dehumidifying system which reduces the humidity (the amount of water vapor in the air) in the box. Usage of dry boxes basically prevent fungal growth on your camera/lenses and also prolongs the lifespan of your equipment.

There's a few reputable brand in Malaysia:1) AIPO

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2) Eureka3) Sundry

The optimal level of relative humidity (RH) for your DSLR should be around 40-45%. (as compared to indoor surroundings which is about RH 60%+ (up to 80%+ on rainy days!))

Take a look at the table below:

Source : http://shashinki.com/shop/aipo-digital-ser...aa4117e900d93d2

To be on the safe side, due to the +-1% variation in settings, it is recommended to set the dry box's RH to - 42-43%

Here's some picture of dry boxes:

Source : http://www.zhaipo.com/en/products.html?pro...D%20NC%20Series

Please note that dry box is preferable only if you don't use your DSLR regularly. If you use your camera frequently (at least once a week), the chance of getting fungus on your DSLR is uncommon.

What's so great about fungus growth?

If fungus grows on your lens, it might just eat into your lens coating and cause permanent damage by etching into the lens.If you ever do see signs of fungal growth, it is important that you get professional help as soon as possible.- If you catch the fungus growth early, the lens elements can be cleaned and the damaged repaired- If it is too late, you can more or less say bye-bye to your lens. The damage is irreversible and permanent, leading to poorer image quality when you shoot pictures with the affected lens

Fungus growth also applies to your camera's sensor.

Facts about fungus and DSLR (5):

Most ideal condition for fungus growth1)Humidity level >50%- Peak growing rate around 70-90% humidity (which is the common humidity level for our climate)2) Dark places3) Stagnant air4) Temperature between 10-35 degrees celcius

Easily infected places1) Camera bags2) Store rooms

Important : Do not keep your DSLR in your carry bag as a storage bag. Unless you live in a very dry, low-humidity place, the stagnant air and moisture might just promote fungal growth.

Here's an example of fungus growing on lenses:

Source:1) http://www.sgcamerastore.com/DRY-Cabinet/A...-/prod_270.html2) http://www.iantan.net/2009/04/what-does-ha...-your-dslr.html

Example of what happens when you store your DSLR in your camera bag in the cupboard for extended periods of time:http://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-...-equipment.html

What if I can't afford a dry box?- Most enthusiast would say you're lying as you could afford to buy a DSLR!!!- If you're equipment gets fungal growth, the cost of servicing and repair might be more than the cost of the dry box.

Anyway, if you're really cash tight and don't think a dry box is necessary, there are some alternatives to dry boxes.a) Air-tight container + dehumidifier/dessicant packs (your own DIY dry box)b) Good storage practicesc) Sunbath your lensesd) Flash the lens using powerful flash

a) Air-tight container + dehumidifier/dessicant packsA cheaper alternative is to buy an air-tight container and a dehumidifier like the "Thirsty Hippo" or silica dessicant packs/gels. These cheap alternatives don't cost much but in the long run (over a few years), it might add up to a significant amount of money spent.Another better alternative is using "Reusable" Silica gel packets that are usually sold by camera shops. These items can be recycled by heating them in the oven.

This is what Thirsty Hippo looks like:

Silica gels :

Reusable silical gel :

http://www.filmtools.com/silgelselin.htmlhttp://www.filmtools.com/pesigel15.htmlhttp://www.desiccantsonline.com/index.php?...iewCat&catId=25

Here's my temporary custom-made DIY dry box:

There are a few problems with this method:1) The humidity level in the box will be unregulated and the thirsty hippo might suck too much moisture. This may make the rubber seals on your DSLR turn hard and crack.- one way to reduce this risk is to open the box regularly, maybe once a week (or even more frequent)2) You have to replace the dehumidifier/dessicants regularly depending on how long they last3) For long-term usage (in terms of years), you might spend money close to or above the cost of a small dry box

b) Good storage practicesJust in case you don't use a drybox and don't use the air-tight container method, it is important to have good storage practices for your equipments:1) Don't store in darkness (e.g. store in a glass cabinet ensuring lots of indirect/direct light)2) Ensure the cabinet has a good air-flow3) Keep as far away as possible from leather or uncoated wood

? Don't store with UV filter in place (as UV light from sunlight will kill any fungus)

c) Sunbath your lensesYeah, that's right. You can sunbath your lenses (NOT the camera body!!! )

The UV light will kill the fungus (remember to take out your UV filter!)

Here's how you do it:- Place under the sun- lens only (do NOT attach the camera body)- Once a week (maybe?)- Duration ?

Disadvantage- may dry up the rubber faster (reduce lifespan by making the rubber hard and cracked)- may promote grease migration within the lens that could lead to oil on the aperture blades

Important : This method is rarely practiced and not generally talked about in photography forums. Do it at your own risk and I will not be blamed for any

damages!!! Better do your own DIY dry box.

d) Flash the lens using powerful flashFlash the lens - use a powerful flash e.g. f42, f58Generates heat that kills the fungus

Here's how you do it:- Aim your flash gun directly into the lens (without the body attached)- 2-3 flashes is enough to kill or slow the fungus growth- Once a week (maybe?)- Supposedly safer than sunbath but less effective

Storage - lens on or off?In actual fact, it doesn't matter if you leave the lens on or take it off. However, it is advisable to keep the lens on due to the following reasons:

1) Your DSLR is ready to be used once you take it out2) There's less chance of introducing dust into the camera during the lens attachment/removal process

Storage - batteryPlease refer to subsection "D) Li-Ion battery packs" for further info

Additional subsectionNaturally, you should not put your DSLR under the hot sun or in your car under that sun for prolonged periods of time as it may damage your camera or lenses.

Stated in the my DSLR manual:

PRECAUTION

Do not use/store the camera in the following places:- In an extremely hot, dry or humid place. In places such as in a car parked in the sun, the camera body may become deformed shocking.gif and this may cause a malfunction.

Even with dry box - if shooting in extreme conditions e.g. rainy day shooting (RH 90+), seaside - can also sunbath

This post has been edited by kmarc: Mar 14 2010, 08:22 AM

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D) Li-Ion battery packs

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Facts you should know about Li-Ion batteries (11):

1) Usually have a 300-500 discharge/charge cycles

- A “Discharge/charge cycle” means a single cycle of depleting followed by a re-charge until 100% of battery charge (i.e. one cycle of depleting to 0% and then charge to 100%). - If you consume 50% of your battery on day 1, recharge to 100% at night, and do the same thing on day 2, then you would have just finished up one charge cycle of its battery life (15)

2) The battery prefers a partial discharge rather than a full discharge

- Frequent full discharges should be avoided when possible (that means using the camera until the battery goes dead or 0% charge)- Instead, charge the battery more often - A reference (for phone Li-Ion batteries) recommends charging once the battery has used/discharged to around 5-10% of total charge (12)

3) There is no memory effect for Li-Ion batteries

- Recharging a partially charged Li-Ion battery does not cause harm as it has no memory effect- Frequent recharging does not shorten the battery life more than normal usage would (15)

4) Avoid allowing the battery to discharge completely (19)

- Li-ion batteries actually include special circuitry to protect the battery from damage due to overcharging or undercharging- This circuit is built to protect from the damage that could result if the charge of your lithium ion battery falls too low. - Once the battery goes below a certain voltage (i.e. charge falls too low), the internal safety circuit opens and the battery becomes dead (irreversibly and permanently damaged). Again, this is a built-in safety mechanism that prevent the battery from being recharged again.- So since Lithium Ion has no “memory effect”, it is better to simply charge your portable device as and when you can or remember (15)- This is especially true if you do not use your camera for a long time (many months), allowing the battery to slowly discharge until completely depleted.

5) If you don't use your camera for more than 1 week, remove the battery from the camera

- to prevent self-discharge if the battery is kept in the camera- in extreme cases, due to self-discharge (until the battery is almost dead), you would not be able to charge the battery anymore- It is basically to prevent the battery from being discharged completely

6) Hot environment

- Avoid using a fully charged battery in a hot environment for extended periods of time as a fully charge battery can go up to 45'c during operation

7) Cold (freezing!) environment

- Batteries do not function as well and run down faster in cold environments/weather. - To prevent this, keep you batteries warm by either carrying your camera under your coat or carry your spare batteries in your pocket so that your body heat can keep them warm (14)

8) Li-Ion batteries have a certain life-span

- The fact is, Li-ion batteries starts dying the moment it leaves the factory! (15)- The actual life-span of an unused Li-ion battery can vary but it can be expected to irreversibly lose 20% of the total charge every year from its original date of manufacture (15, 16, 19)- Hence,---- if you have a spare battery, don't keep it stored for years. Use it interchangeably with your current battery

---- don't simply buy 2nd hand Li-ion batteries. Check the manufacture date---- don't buy "spare" batteries just in case you need it in the future. Save the money and buy it only when you need it- Li-Ion batteries lose some of their capacity after one year and may fail after 2 or more years even when they are not in use (13)- Once the battery has worn out, there are no way to make it work again

9) Storage- Lithium-ion batteries can hold a charge for many months (they have a self-discharge rate of 5-10%)(19)- As mentioned before, if you're planning to store your camera for prolonged periods, remember to take out the batteries- For prolonged storage, keep the battery at 70-80% charge level in a cool dry environment- You can also store the batteries in a refrigerator as it has been found to greatly extend the shelf life (but don't freeze it!!!)(18)--- Ensure it is kept dry in the fridge (e.g. in an air-tight container). Long-term exposure to moisture in the fridge can cause corrosion--- When removing batteries from the refrigerator, allow them to warm up to room temperature before using them in your device

This post has been edited by kmarc: Jan 28 2010, 11:16 AM

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E) DSLR bags

Note : Thx to ieR for his valuable help and input in improving this subsection!

There are many types of DSLR bags which can be divided into different categories:1) Type of material - Leather, cotton, PVC, etc2) Type of brand3) Type of bag design - Shoulder bag, sling bag, backpack, etc.

1) Type of material

I would suggest avoiding leather bags because fungus grow easier on leather and may later affect your DSLR or the lenses.

2) Type of brand

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There are many brands available in Malaysia. These include:- Crumpler (Website)- Domke (Website)- Kata (Website)- Lowepro (Website)- Tamrac (Website)- Thinktank (Website)- Bagman - Company brand e.g. Sony, Canon, Nikon, etc

3) Type of bag design

There are many types of DSLR bag to suit every situation. Some DSLR bags are fashionable, some are serious work bags, some meant for transporting(plane) and some for traveling.

They can be divided into:a) Shoulder bagb) Sling bagc) Backpackd) Travel bage) Beltpackf) Harness and vest system

Whichever bag you choose (you may need a few bags for different circumstances), it is important to get a good bag that is:1) Well-padded to properly protect the contents2) Big enough to fit all your accessories3) Have various comparments (that are usually adjustable) so that your DSLR and lenses fit snugly in the bag (and doesn't move around in the bag when you do move around!)4) Security consideration (i.e. easy for thieves to steal your gears from behind if you wear a normal backpack)

a) Shoulder bag

As the name suggest, it is the camera bag carried on one shoulder. Sometimes called messenger bag. Example as below:

Source of picture : http://www.sony.com.my/product/lcs-amsc30

For some fashion-conscious people, shoulder bags can be a perfect fit as there are fashionable camera bags available (females only!). Example as below :

Source of picture : http://www.switched.com/2010/02/16/dslr-pa...-to-the-highly/

Shoulder bags are generally not meant to carry 6-7 pieces of gears. Depending on the size, they can usually only carry a camera body, 1-2 lenses, flash gun, some cleaning tools and a few small extra items e.g. extra batteries.

One thing I notice about shoulder bags is that they tend to move around as you walk about. Even leaning out or bending down to get something might be inconvenient as the bag will swing forward and sometimes fall out of your

shoulders.

Note : There seems to be some confusion regarding the term shoulder bag and sling bag. Refer to the "Sling bag" subsection for more understanding.

Advantages of shoulder bag (21):1) Can be loaded with more gears2) Easy to access your camera3) May count as a personal item which can be brought in addition to one-piece carry-on on most flights

Disadvantages:1) A lot of weight on one shoulder2) Dangle around during moderate activity3) Difficult to carry around during activities which required good mobility

b) Sling bag

Sling bag employs a style that is becoming more popular in the photography world these days. The Sling bag is worn on your back, with the strap across the front of your body. When you need to access the bag, you don't actually need to take it off. Just simply slide it underneath your arm, and rest it on your chest, where it's easily accessible (20).

One good example is the Slingshot series from Lowepro:

Source of pictures : Lowepro website

Once you have used your camera, you can easily keep it back in the bag the same way you took it out.

You can also put the bag directly horizontal in front of you and use it as a

stabilizing platform where you can rest both your elbows on the bag. This minimizes shake when taking pictures.

Slingshot reviews:Slingshot 100AWSlingshot 202AWSlingshot 300AW

Advantages of a slingbag:1) Comfortable and easy to move around (like a backpack)2) Easy to access your camera/gears without taking off the bag3) Opening for access to camera may be difficult for thieves to steal the camera while wearing the bag

Disadvantages1) Weight distribution not as good as backpack (but still quite good)2) Capacity usually not as big as backpack

c) Backpack

Backpack are excellent for users who need to carry the camera and their

There are many choices of backpacks available. They are usually built to contain adjustable compartments to store your camera/accessories. Their sizes can range from small to large sizes : Small (3x3 compartments), big (3x4) and huge (3x5). Some has laptop compartment, raincoat, and tripod straps (to carry tripod along) which is more preferable for enthusiast.

An example of 3x4 backpack (3 rows x 4 columns):

and the amount of gear to carry

Advantages (21) of a backpack:1) Largest possible capacity for your gears2) Comfortable distribution of weight3) Greatest mobility for activity (arms are free too!)

Disadvantages:1) Difficult to get your camera, backpack must be removed2) Working with gears is uncomfortable, usually need to put down the backpack3) Gears not in sight, higher risk of being robbed!!4) Rarely counts as a personal item on flights

d) Travel bag

Some people use backpacks to transport their gear in long distance, some uses specially designed bags like the thinktank's Airport Security series, they cost a lot, but they definately protect ur gears in long flight. it allow u to bring almost all your gears to shooting location, unlike backpack, they cant really carry on your back, because with all the gear u carry, they easily weight over 20kg(hence, these bag usually coems with trolley), which is not good for your back. handle the back and your (human)body with care.

e) Belt pack

Belt packs are worn at the waist (like a belt). Their sizes vary and can be large enough to hold a DSLR, several lenses and other smaller accessories. It is easy and comfortable to move around while wearing the belt pack. In addtion, as it is worn in front of you, it is easy to access your gears as well as preventing thieves from stealing your gears. However, the bag might get in the way if you try to sit, crouch or swat down.

Here's an example of an exceptionally large belt pack:

Source : http://www.thinktankphoto.com/products/spe...-belt-pack.aspx

Advantages (21) of a belt pack1) Comfortable distribution of weight2) Equipment easily accessible3) Bag is visible while being worn4) Generally counted as a personal item and can be brought in addition to a one piece of carry-on on most flights

Disadvantages1) Sitting and crouching may be difficult2) Usually have to remove while sitting (unless it is a very small bag which can be pushed sideways)

f) Harness and vest system

They are not actually not bags but a harness and vest system like below:

but another way to carry ur gears around, usually meant to carry with you 'all time'. they are usually used by professional(with jobs) like wedding photographers, because they need extra batteries and changing lens on the spot. harness and vest are not essential for normal photographer, but many would love to wear one to look cool;)

------------------------

Camera bags that comes with your camera

On many occasion, you'll get a free camera bag that comes along with your DSLR but might not be big enough or good enough to protect your DSLR. In that case, it would be wise to get a better one.

Bags that are bundled with a DSLR (if they don't give FOC (free-of-charge), bargain for it!) are usually simple, small and enough for the current camera/gears that you own at that time.

ieR's FOC bagHere's a picture of the simple cheap FOC bag (some of us call it the china bag)

Here is the amount of gears it can store (I missplace my divider, but it give some rough idea how much gear u can store inside)(* I am suppose to throw in a lenspen and blower, or some cleaning kits)

Many people hate this type of square bag(hey, it's free anyway), as it doesn't stay at one place when u carry it, it swings around, and it is very obvious a camera bag that attracts unwanted attention.

kmarc's FOC bagSmall bag with lousy design might also make it difficult to store or retrieve your DSLR from the bag.

For example, my free DSLR bag is a small bag with zips(avoid this at all cause!)as below (left picture). I found that it is difficult to insert my camera into the bag without eventually getting the camera scratched by the zip on entry or on removal. My solution was to actually get a soft cloth (that's my old Guess t-shirt!!) that line the interior of the bag and protrude out on both sides of the bag to protect my camera on insertion and removal (right picture).

Note : My DSLR actually came with a better shoulder bag which cost RM240. However, I didn't like it and requested for another bag which is RM120. The vendor actually gave me a RM100 discount!!!

Choosing the right bag for you.Some of u (seasonal pro) might own 5-7 bags, some own 2, i (ieR) owns 4 type of bags. choosing a right one is important. i do not carry Big Backpack every time i go out, (i would love to own a fashion sling bag enough for a body and 2 lens)...

Introduction

Thank You, for visiting the internets most comprehensive web site on the subject of Digital SLR Sensor Cleaning. We have put this site together to help educate the consumer on how to clean the CCD/CMOS sensor in their Digital SLR Cameras. With so much disinformation out there along

with some trying to scare you into buying their supplies, we are here to clear the smoke and demystify the subject.

The difference between this site and others is:

• These instructions are written by a Certified Photographic Consultant & Professional Camera Repairman, Curt Fargo, and Camera Repairs most published author, Larry Lyells

• Developed from real world experiences and written in layman's terms

• We are a regular business with a store front

• With an appointment, we will even show you in person how to accomplish this task (free of charge)

• We want you to be able to clean YOUR sensor no matter where you have bought your supplies from

• We don't offer information on only one method, we offer information on ALL major methods

• We don't represent any one manufacturer and we sell no advertising to help keep our information unbiased

Our reason for developing this web site isn't to try and belittle the manufacturers, or take business away from the repair shops. Our goal is to provide you with the knowledge and resources needed to clean your camera's sensor on your own. YOU will have to decide if you have the skill to do this yourself, or if it would be more appropriate in the hands of a professional. The task of cleaning your sensor is one that needs to be accomplished on a regular basis. Regular for some may mean daily cleanings and for others, annually. Most of the manufacturers recognize this and are also looking for ways to have you accomplish this successfully on your own. They know it isn't economical or feasible for you to be shipping your camera to them every time you get dust. You can expect changes in the future from some of these manufacturers. In Japan, Nikon, has already started selling a swab and methanol, sensor cleaning kit to consumers, but they have yet to make them available in the USA. The independent repair shops would love to have this extra business, they understand the need for regular sensor cleanings. Some, who do not feel comfortable, should have a repair shop accomplish this for you, but there are many of you out there who can accomplish this on your own with just a little bit of guidance.

As professional camera repairmen, we tend to error on the side of caution although not to the extent of Canon or Nikon as we want you to have a clean sensor with the lowest chance of

failure. We aren't necessarily the first to endorse a new method or product as we do not want you to be the guinea pig for testing.

We call it cleaning the sensor, but in reality you never actually clean the sensor itself, but a low pass filter mounted in front of the sensor. Not everyone is capable of cleaning their own sensors, we all have different strengths and weaknesses. If you have a steady hand and a good mechanical aptitude, you may well be capable of accomplishing this task successfully. I don't want to scare you, but if you don't do it right, you can mess up your camera. If you still don't feel comfortable after reading all the instructions, by all means don't attempt this. Take your camera to

a professional.

As the old saying goes, "there are many ways to skin a cat" and the same goes for cleaning digital camera sensors. The method the majority of the camera repair industry use is the "swab and methanol" method. As a professional camera repairman and the owner of multiple Digital SLR Cameras, I too feel that this is the best and most consistent method. The ultimate level of products to use for accomplishing this method are made by Photographic Solutions Inc., but it is also not the cheapest. With the recent introduction of the Sensor Brush it too has become popular with photographers world wide. If your checkbook isn't as fat as others, we will show you how to save some money by using alternate products. We have also provided you with links to other internet sites that offer opinions on the subject. Although the sponsor of this site does sell all the tools and supplies needed to accomplish the task at hand, we will show you other ways to save money, and provide you with alternative sources for ALL of the needed supplies.

You need to read at least the first seven sections of this site BEFORE you attempt the cleaning. Yes, I know it is a guy thing where we read the instructions after we start having problems, but from one guy to another, you really need to read all of this FIRST. For the gals out there, I know you will read first. We are providing you with this information to help keep you out of the pitfalls associated with cleaning your camera's sensor, but we accept NO LIABILITY and must demand that you attempt any of this AT YOUR OWN RISK

Care and Maintenance

Introduction

Despite how meticulous and careful I am with my equipment, it always amazes me how quickly dust, fingerprints, and overall grime builds up on and inside my camera bodies and even on lenses. Casual photographers will probably not immediately notice problems with dirt until little specs begin showing up on final images. Oftentimes it is when I start seeing little specs of dust in clear areas of my images (which is usually in areas of the sky on landscape photographs) that I know that my image sensor (or image sensor) needs to be cleaned. Despite improved technology to remove dust from camera sensors; a routine of cleaning and maintenance are necessary to avoid common dust related problems. Fortunately with a little care and common sense, most cleaning tasks can be performed relatively inexpensively with over-the-counter products. In this guide, I am going to walk you through a few of the steps that I take to maintain and keep my Canon digital single lens reflex cameras clean and ready for the next shoot.

Disclaimer

I have to add the short disclaimer that all the information provided in this free guide should be performed carefully and at your own risk. There is a risk anytime you expose the inside of your camera and make contact with the image sensor. This guide is a walk-through of the steps I take to clean my own equipment and is not intended to be all-inclusive. I cannot be responsible for damage that occurs to your camera during cleaning. Consider sending your camera to the manufacturer for maintenance if you feel uncomfortable with any part of this article. Always check with your camera’s manufacturer for specific information on cleaning and maintenance.

When Should You Clean Your Camera?

I can only answer this question based on my own experience. Photographers will have to establish a routine that works best for them. The main issue is that dust enters digital single lens reflex cameras and settles on the image sensor during the time the photographer removes and

switches lenses. Unless you choose to never remove the lens from your camera, dust is an unavoidable part of digital SLR photography.

I clean my camera (and particularly the image sensor) when I start seeing a significant amount of dust particles and other foreign material on my images. I primarily see dust specs on images shot at higher f-stops (e.g. f-22). My experience has been that it is much more difficult to detect foreign specs on images at lower (wide-open) f-stops primarily because dust and other material are thrown out of focus. This is similar to how you can shoot through a chain link fence at lower, wide-open f-stops and make the links virtually disappear.

I once ran into an online tutorial that suggested that digital photographers should clean their image sensor every week! Frankly I cannot imagine a situation where I would need to clean my sensor that often. Even professional photographers switching between lenses multiple times a day should not have to clean the image sensor that often. I would even go as far as to suggest that the problem of dust probably plagues amateur photographers more so than professionals because they typically have access to only one camera body. Most professional photographers work with several cameras and varying focal length lenses for speed; therefore they are not likely to remove lenses as often as photographers who are limited to one camera body.

Dust Can Usually Be Found in Clear Areas of an Image. Cleaning the image sensor should be on an as-needed basis only to minimize the risk of scratching or damaging it. Remember, each time you expose your camera’s sensor to the outside world you are putting it at risk of collecting even more dust and airborne matter (including moisture). Each time you physically touch the sensor with a cleaning brush or any other tool you risk scratching, gouging, and even cracking it. If you change lenses with any degree of regularity, dust will eventually make its way onto your final images forcing you to use a program like Photoshop to remove it. Every serious digital photographer should know how to use the cloning and healing tools available in Photoshop to remove foreign objects that show up in final images.

What is a Charged-Coupled Device (image sensor) Anyway?

Most of today’s high-resolution digital single lens reflex cameras come equipped with a charged-coupled device (image sensor) image sensor (rather than a CMOS). A CDD is the equivalent to digital film. High-resolution image sensors are made up of millions of tiny cells that convert incoming light into electrons. An in-camera processor reads the value of each cell and coverts it to a digital value (binary ones and zeros). image sensors are only able to measure the intensity of the light that falls on each of the cells. Red, green, and blue colored filters are placed over the

image sensor to render color. A method called interpolation combines all three colors to produce a full color image.

Image Sensor from a Canon 20D. It is worth noting that you are actually cleaning the filter above the image sensor rather than the image sensor itself (see “Cleaning the Image Sensor” below).

Why Not Send Your Camera to the Manufacturer for Cleaning?Most manufacturers can clean your camera (including the image sensor) and send it back to you. The main draw back to this is that it can be very expensive and the turn around time can be lengthy. For example, let’s say that your camera manufacturer charges $50 for a routine cleaning (the cost can be much higher than that). You will also need to pay to have it packaged, insured, and shipped. All of this can really add up if you need to send your camera in every few months. The upside to sending your camera in is that the manufacturer assumes the risk of cleaning and has all of the necessary equipment to do it safely. In the end it comes down to how often you use your camera and how comfortable you are with doing the cleaning yourself. If you choose to have someone else clean your camera for you, be sure to send it to retailers authorized by the manufacturer.

Camera Handling Practices

Keeping your camera clean begins with everyday camera handling practices. This is important because establishing good camera handling habits will help minimize the amount of dust and other foreign objects that your camera is exposed to. It is never a good idea to expose the inside of your camera body for long periods of time. Lenses should be switched quickly and in clean environments. This generally comes down to planning.

Think for a moment before you remove lenses. Are you in a place that is relatively dry and clean? It is unlikely that you will always have a choice when you are switching between lenses in the field; however it might be necessary to move a little bit to minimize your exposure. For example, if you are shooting near a waterfall, move as far away as possible from the falls itself to avoid exposing the inside of your camera to mist and airborne moisture. The same is true of sand and dust. If you are shooting on a farm where there is a lot of dirt and dust flying, move to a quieter place before removing your lens.

On a fairly regular basis I get the opportunity to fly in small two and four seat helicopters to shoot aerial photographs. From experience I have learned that it is extremely important to avoid switching between lenses while flying or even while on the ground when the rotor blades are

spinning. The reason for this is simply that the air is moving so quickly through the cabin that it is impossible to avoid dust and other airborne matter from entering the camera during the brief moment it takes to switch to a new lens. Again this really comes down to planning. When I am in the air, I try to take two cameras with me. I take one with a wide-angle lens and another for telephoto zooming. Doing this eliminates the need to switch lenses and the risk of sucking in airborne particulates.

Dust can easily get sucked into your camera while flying. Generally the best places to switch camera lenses are inside (e.g. home or studio) or in the cabin of a vehicle if you are in the field. Another option is to place your camera into a clean gym bag or backpack and switch lenses (which I would only reserve for extreme circumstances). Obviously you cannot always pick the location where you will need to switch lenses; however these are the steps I suggest taking to minimize exposure to the image sensor:

Wherever you are at, have the replacement lens out and ready to go. A common mistake people make is to remove the lens from the camera first and then fumble around trying to find a replacement lens in the camera bag. I usually remove the rear lens cap and orient the red/white lens alignment dot so that I can quickly align it with my index finger when I go to attach it to my camera body. Next, since dirt and grime fall downward, turn your camera body upside down (with the camera lens facing toward the ground) and remove the lens. Once the lens has been removed, quickly pickup the second lens so that your index finger is aligned with the red/white dot and attach it to the camera body. The whole process should only take a few seconds. Making this a practice should significantly reduce the amount of time your image sensor is exposed to the outside elements.

Routine Cleaning

Every couple of weeks I pull out all of my camera gear so that I can wipe it down and look for possible damage. I start by powering down my cameras to reduce any static electricity that may have built up on the electronics. Next I blow air into the inside compartment of each camera with a hand pump blower. It is worth mentioning that you should never use canned air or any device that blows high-pressured air on your camera. It is also a very bad idea to blow air into your camera from your mouth. A hand pump bulb blower will not remove foreign particles that have been stuck onto your camera’s sensor, but it is usually effective in removing small bits of dust that reside inside the camera compartment, around the lens ring, and even on the sensor. I typically remove the lens, turn the camera body upside down and squeeze several bursts of air into the direction of the mirror and image sensor sensor. I am very careful to keep the tip of the blower outside the camera and not to enter the main compartment. You can blow air directly

onto your sensor by using the sensor lock up feature available on most of today’s DSLR cameras.

Next I remove the front and rear caps of all my lenses and blow any dust that has settled on the glass. I then use a small, clean lens tissue (designed for glass) to wipe away any remaining dust or smudges. I also wipe down the outside of each lens and camera body with a clean cotton diaper (it’s soft!) prior to returning them to my camera bag. I go through this routine every couple of weeks or after being in the field for extended periods. Consider wearing lint free gloves during this cleaning process.

Cleaning the Image Sensor

As I mentioned earlier, I only physically clean an image sensor when I begin seeing specs of dust on my images. I do not subscribe to the idea of cleaning the sensor as part of a regular routine. I prefer to clean it only as necessary. I might even wait until I see more than just a few anomalies on my images before taking action and utilize cloning tools instead. Photographing a piece of white paper or a white computer screen is an effective way to determine how dirty your sensor is.

I use a product called Sensor Swab, which includes sterile, flat-tipped swabs and cleaning solution (usually sold separately). A box of twelve swabs can be purchased for around $45. The cleaning solution is about $10. This should cover about twelve sensor cleanings. If you consider this cost for a moment, you will quickly see why learning how to clean the image sensor yourself can save you quite a bit of money over time. Once you are ready to get started, find a clean, quiet place to work uninterrupted. This is not something you want to do with young children around or in an environment with lots of distractions. I unusually clean my camera equipment while sitting at a table with bright overhead light. Consider wearing lint free gloves during this process. First I turn my camera on and navigate to the mirror lock up feature in the main menu. After locking up the mirror, I remove the lens and expose the image sensor (image sensor). You can identify the image sensor by looking toward the rear of the inner compartment. The image sensor should look like a small, flat rectangle. This is the area that we are going to focus in on (no pun intended!) for cleaning.

I place two or three drops of the cleaning solution onto the tip of a new swab and gently wipe across the image sensor horizontally from left to right (if you are looking at the back of the camera). It is important not to drip too much cleaning solution onto the swab. Also be careful not to use too much pressure with the swab. I press down on the swab just enough to slightly bend the tip against the sensor. After cleaning your sensor a few times, you will get a good sense for how much pressure is necessary. I suggest erring on the side of caution and use very slight pressure the first time through.

Sensor Swab by Photographic Solutions, Inc. After making the first sweep, I turn the swab over and make a second sweep in the same direction, this time using the dry side (or opposite side) of the swab. If you have a full size sensor, you may need to make several overlapping passes. I do not recommend wiping back-and-forth (sweeping right to left and back again) with the swab as you could create streaks.

It should only be necessary to make a couple passes with the swab to remove most dust related material on the image sensor. Using too much solution or making too many passes risks creating streaks and cementing dust onto the sensor. Also remember that your swab will likely pick up quite a bit of foreign material and that you do not want to redistribute this onto the sensor by overdoing it. It is usually prudent to make just a few passes with the swab and then take a few test images to see if your sensor is clean. You can always go back with a new swab and run through the cleaning process again.

It is worth noting that the main ingredient of the cleaning solution is methanol, which is highly flammable. Never clean your camera near open flames or heat sources. You are also unable to take methanol based cleaning solution with you on an airplane when you travel.

Conclusion

Learning how to properly clean your camera’s image sensor can save you time and money while minimizing unwanted dust specs from showing up in your final images. With a little maintenance and care your camera should last many years to come.

How to Take Care of a DSLRBy jennablack, eHow Member

keep your SLR taking beautiful photos longer

User-Submitted Article

Digital Single Lens Reflex (DSLR) camera ownership requires much less technical know-how than even film SLRs, but proper maintenance and storage can keep your camera and lenses working beautifully for much longer, and can save you hundreds in repair and replacement costs down the line.

Difficulty: Moderately Easy

Instructions1. 1

Always store your camera in a hard case.

Soft camera bags are light and convenient--great for day trips and hikes. But at the end of the day (and especially when traveling) your camera should always go in a hard case. Accidents happen all the time, and when push comes to shove a little neoprene (or worse, a layer of poly fill) won't keep your expensive equipment safe.

A hard case can stand up to a lot more abuse. For example, I was in a terrible car accident a few years ago, and my camera (in a hard case) was in the front seat with me, sitting on the floor. When the engine block was pushed back it shattered my femur... but my camera case, and the gear inside, was fine. Three years later, the case is still in use. It did not require professional repair. The accepted standard for safety in hard cases is Pelican. Pelican cases are air- and water-tight, they float, and the cases and their contents are guaranteed for life against everything except meteor showers and small children.

2. 2

Always cap your lens when you're not actually taking a picture.

Any time your camera is set down or there's a lull in action, put a lens cap on your lens. Lenses become dirty and scratched easily, and can be very expensive to replace. A scratched lens can result in scratches or spots appearing on photographs. Additionally a lens cap can absorb damage if something hits the lens or if the camera is dropped, but without the cap the lens itself is more likely to shatter.

3. 3

Keep a lens cloth, brush, and cleaning solution with you whenever you have your camera.

Keeping lenses clean helps prevent scratches from particles and keeps images crisp. Always use cleaning supplies intended for cameras, and make sure to follow the directions on packages.

4. 4

Keep a clear or UV filter on lenses at all times.

Filters cover the lens completely, so anything that would scratch the lens would instead scratch the filter. If the filter becomes too scratched to use, just replace it. Clear filters are generally very inexpensive, especially compared to the cost of replacing the lens itself.

5. 5

Keep camera equipment out of intense heat and damp weather.

Heat can cause lenses to break and can of course damage any electronics. Never leave your camera in a hot car for long periods, and if you feel your camera or lenses becoming hot after a day of shooting in the sun, try to get into a cooler area and let them resume normal temperature.

If you live in a very humid area, make sure you store your equipment in airtight cases. When shooting in fog, rain, or near bodies of water where splashing might occur, use an all-weather bag or underwater housing. At the very least, put a gallon-sized ziplock bag around your camera with a hole for the lens.

6. 6

Send your camera body in for professional cleaning occasionally.

If you shoot often, I'd recommend at least once a year, more if you shoot outdoors often or under harsh conditions.

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