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Develop aromatherapy and spa products

Massage Schools of Queensland Develop aromatherapy and spa products

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DEVELOP AROMATHERAPY AND SPA PRODUCTS

Natural cosmetics can be tailor made specific to the client’s needs and the

addition of essential oils will enhance the effect of the products.

There are many benefits to making your own body care products. Beauty

preparations made from natural ingredients can give us everything we need to

nourish and pamper our skin. Many chemicals are used in commercial skincare

and hair care products, which do not contain any beneficial ingredients and may

irritate the skin. Nature provides us with all the essential vitamins and minerals

to promote healthy, glowing skin and shiny hair.

Feeding you skin is just as important as feeding your body and home made

recipes are formulated to deliver anti-oxidants, vitamins, minerals and enzymes

to hydrate, nourish and protect the skin against cellular damage.

POINTS TO RMEMENBER WHEN SELLING/ Giving YOUR PRODUCTS:

Name of the label all of the ingredients in your product in decreasing

order of volume i.e. the ingredients that takes up a greater percentage of

your product is listed first.

Have contact details (address or at the least telephone number, website

and email address.

Include volume or weight of product being sold

State best before date and a batch number – the batch number could be

the date that you made the product.


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Package products in dark, glass containers (amber or blue) with an air

tight lid to prevent any oxidation or damage to the product if they contain

essential oils (essential oils degrade plastic).

Maintain certain levels of health and hygiene standards that you need to

meet.

Keep records of the recipe, who made the product, date and time of

making and record any incidents, e.g. accidentally put a little more of a

raw material than you should have. If you are checked or have any

customer complaints, you can go back to your record and see if there

were any irregularities.

It is also important that you keep copies of material safety data sheets.

RAW MATERIALS

Sensitivity and Allergy Testing on Raw Materials

It is important to create skin care products, which are tolerated even by sensitive

people.

Apply the product or raw material on the skin in the crook of the elbow (where

the skin is thinner) and leave for 12 to 24 hours. When testing raw materials it is

advisable to test quantities in the proportion to how they will occur in the

finished product. E.g. to test the preservative paraben, it should be diluted in

water in the ratio of 0.5ml paraben to 100ml water.

Exfoliating, Peeling and Scrubbing Agents

Alpha Hydroxyl Acids (AHAs)

These are acidic substances with a ph of 3 – 4 and are naturally occurring acids,

which include Glycolic, Citric, Malic and Lactic Acid. They break down the

compounds that hold dead skin cells on the surface and slough them off leaving a

smoother, softer skin. AHAs can be used to care for acne, oily skin, large pores

and to combat wrinkles.

Dosage – 1 – 10% in an oil based product.


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AHA Natural Fruit extract

A concentrated liquid of 5 botanical extracts extracted from blueberries, sugar

cane, oranges, lemons and sugar maple. The extraction process reduces colour

and odour and concentrated even further by vacuum distillation. It can be used

in a cream, lotion or gel to promote skin renewal.

Skin care

Regular use stimulates cell renewal so use daily in cleansers and toners.

In moisturisers and lotions it soothes and softens, and stimulates collagen

synthesis, thereby increasing elasticity. This makes it valuable in night creams

and anti aging creams, lotions and water based serums.

When used in masks, it brightens and revitalises dull and lifeless skin. It can

improve hyper-pigmentation when used in gels

It is water soluble so cannot be used in oil only products. Add in stage 3 (under

40degress C)

Use at 1 – 2 %for daily use in products

Use at 5 – 15 % for more intensive specific treatments.

Apricot Seed Powder (Prunus armeniaca)

Finely ground powder of Apricot kernels can be used as a scrubbing agent used

for the body but NEVER on the face.

Dosage 5gr per 100ml of cream, lotion, soap or gel.

Jojobo Peeling Grains (Hydrogenated Simmondsia chinensis)

Extracted from the waxes of the Jojoba plant. The grains are fine and smooth so

do not irritate the skin and are excellent to peel away dead skin and improve the

circulation. Can be used to scrub the face, and are added to shower gels, oils, gels

and creams.

Dosage 2 – 10% and don’t heat them over 60 degrees C.


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Salt (Sodium Chloride)

Salt is excellent for the use in detoxifying baths and as a scrubbing agent to

encourage exfoliation.

Epsom Salts (Magnesium sulphate)

Epsom Salts helps soothe and relax muscle pains, draws toxins from the body,

reduces swelling and bruising, sedates the nervous system (relaxing), exfoliates

the skin, is a natural emollient and helps increase magnesium levels in the body.

It is used in for first aid, foot baths, body baths, body exfoliating etc.

Clays

Green clay

Treats various skin problems from normal to oily skin, acne and eczema,

congested neglected skin etc. It has purifying, toning and exfoliating effect and is

high in minerals. The fine green clay is used in facial masks and the rough green

clay can be used on the body.

Pink clay

Mostly used for dry and sensitive skin. It is refining and tones the epidermis.

Red clay

Mostly used for normal skin and is mildly absorbent. It is however, also suitable

for couperosed and sensitive skins, as well as mature, dehydrated skin.

White clay

Mostly used for sensitive or mature and delicate skin, but can be used for oily

skin and skin with acne. It can be used as a natural alternative to talcum powder.

Yellow clay

Mostly used for normal and oily skin


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Botanical CO2 Extracts

In the cosmetic field, CO2 extracts are used as bioactive components in creams,

skin oils, body milks and lotions, before and after sun products etc. CO2

extraction eliminates harmful organic solvents, and since it is a gentle extraction

process using a low temperature, there is less rearrangement of Essential Oil

constituents, and the high- grade composition is very close to the natural raw

material. Since they are also highly concentrated they can be used in a fairly low

dosage.

These include Carrot seed CO2 extract, Chamomile CO2 extract, Evening

Primrose CO2 extract, Marigold CO2 extract, Rosehip CO2 extract, Sea Buckthorn

CO2 extract and Rosemary and Sage Antioxidants.

Dosage – total amount of CO2 extract (or choice of more than one) is 3%.

Carrot seed CO2 Extract (Daucus carota sativa Seed Extract CO2)

Daucus carota is rich in Beta Carotene, which is a precursor to Vitamin A, and

contains substantial amount of vitamins C, B1, B2, D and E. It contains more than

60% Acids, predominantly Linoleic and Oleic. It is an excellent skin care oil for

wrinkled, dehydrated, sun damaged, mature or traumatised skin, since it

stimulates cell growth, and has a strengthening effect on red blood cells. It

creates a firmer, fresher appearance, removes toxin build up in the skin and is

useful in cases of water retention. It is well known for its antioxidant effect and

can be used in creams, lotions, ointments, skin oils, sun protection creams and

balms.


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Can added without any heating to already made products such as gels, lotions,

creams, shampoos, liquid soaps and body washes.

All sensitive skin products

Sunburn treatments

Treatment oils

Mature skin products

After sun and sun protection products

Wintertime blues products

Balms, body butters and ointments

Skin lifting, anti wrinkle and skin rejuvenation products

Face oils and serums for dull, lifeless and tired skin that needs extra shine

Hair care products

Note it may temporarily colour the skin and fabrics

It contains:

60 – 80% Essential Ol

45 – 70% Carotol

Caryophyllene

Bisabolene

Further sesquuiphellandrene

Alpha-Pinene

Farnesene

Dosage – 1 – 2%

Marigold CO2 Extract (Calendula officinalis Flower Extract CO2)


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Marigold is a powerfully healing ingredients when used as an infusion or a

Macerated oil. Recent investigation clearly demonstrated that CO2 extraction

produces a high grade, totally natural extract that can be verified by its topical

anti-inflammatory activity.

Marigold Extract is a dark red brown substance with a waxy consistency but

liquid at 40degrees C. Marigold Extract is used for its anti-inflammatory and

healing properties, for wounds, scrapes, dry and sensitive skin, and increasing

the resistance to chemical and mechanical irritations. It is used in creams,

ointments, balms, tonic face lotions, sun milks, aftershave products, lip products,

hair shampoos, etc.

Scarred, damaged and irritated skins

Sores and wounds (bedsores)

Burns, sunburns

Acne, rashes, fungus

Eczema and psoriasis

Varicose veins

Used in all sensitive skin products

Chapped skin on hands and feet

It contains:

Petacyclic triterpene alcohols

Triterpendiol monoesters, including 17 – 25% Faradiol esters (myristic

and palmitic acids.

Dosage 1 – 2%


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Rosemary & Sage CO2 Ultra Antioxidants CO2 Extracts (Rosmarinus

officinalis L and Salvia officinalis L)

Rosemary and Sage leaves are well known for the essential oils derived from

them, which are used in oral hygiene products, bath oils and massage

preparations. However, they are also a source of highly active antioxidants

belonging to the group of diterpene phenols, which are contained in both plants.

The Antioxidants in Rosemary and Sage increase the shelf life of cosmetics as

they retard the oxidation processes which are accelerated by heat and sunlight.

In all studies, the Rosemary and Sage diterpene phenols have been active in low

concentrations and could easily replace synthetic antioxidants. Rosemary and

Sage Antioxidant CO2 Extract is more stable than Vitamin E for products such as

creams, and vegetable oils and can be used in water and oil-based products.

Rosemary antioxidant CO2 extract has antioxidant, antimocrobial and anti

inflammatory properties. It can also delay the oxidation of fatty oils, carotenoids

and essential oils in the food industry, in food supplements and in cosmetics.

Most important effects:

Antioxidant value

Increases blood circulation

Antimicrobial

Anti-inflammatory

To stop your products from going rancid use the following dosage:

0.02% - 0.1% in Saturated fats

0.2% - 0.4% in Polyunsaturated fats.


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Sea Buckthorn CO2 Extract (Hippophae rhamnoides Kernel Extract CO2

and Hippophae rhamnoides Pulp Extract CO2)

Sea Buckthorn is a hardy bush bearing delicious yellow-orange berries, referred

as “Siberian pineapple” in Russia because of its taste and juciness. Sea

Buckthorn berries contain vitamin and nutrients in their seeds, pulp and juice.

They contain vitamins A, K, E, C, B1, B2, Folic Acid, Essential Fatty Acids, Lipids,

Amino Acids and Minerals.

Sea Buckthorn products and materials mostly imported from China, range from

oil, juice, tea, and food additives to candles, jellies, cosmetics, and shampoos.

For cosmetic application, it is essential to use only true and genuine oils, which

are totally composed of Sea Buckthorn Lipids, and not the Sea Buckthorn

Macerated oils, which are also on the market.

The Seed Oil contains a high concentration of Polyunsaturated Linoleic and

Linolenic Fatty Acids and is recognised for eczema treatment and can replace or

supplement cortisone preparations in less severe cases.

The Pulp Oil contains a high concentration of Palmitoleic Fatty Acid (saturated

oils) and thus is more stable than the Seed Oil.

Both the Seed and Pulp oils are rich in:

Tocopherols – antioxidant, reduce UV skin damage, protect the skin, reduce

inflammation and accelerate wound healing.

Tocotrienols – along with Tocopherol, makes up Vitamin E. Studies have shown

the antioxidant effects of Tocotrienols to be 40 to 60 times more effective than


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alpha Tocopherol. Tocorienols reduce risk of stroke by reversing athersclerosis

and to reduce the level of LDL (bad) cholesterol.

Phytosterols – essential for skin structure formation, precursors of hormones,

prevent dehydration, stimulate collagen synthesis, and are protective enabling

the skin to look younger.

Sea Buckthorn has a wide range of effects:

Anti-inflammatory

Relieve pain

Healing Sunburn and wounds

Protective against UV damage (Russian cosmonauts use it for protection

against radiation burns in space)

Restoring to skin burns and pigmentation spots and damaged skin

Eczema

Dry, mature, wrinkled skin (restores elasticity and firmness)

Sensitive skin

Healing acne (2 – 5%)

Reducing oxidation

Improve immune function

Treating mucous membrane related disorders and diseases such as

cough, sputum, gastric and gynaecological problems

Strengthening cardiovascular health

Improving immune function

Promoting regeneration of mucous membranes

Sea Buckthorn Seed CO2 Extract is extracted from the seeds and is an orange-

yellow clear colour

Sea Buckthorn Pulp CO2 Extract is extracted from the pulp of the berries and is a

clear to turbid red colour.

Dosage – generally 0.3 – 1 %


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Tinctures

Tincture Definition:

A tincture is an extract of a sample into a solution. Usually, the word tincture refers to

an alcohol extract, although other solvents may be used. Tinctures most commonly

are used to prepare extracts of plants, such as vanilla, lavender, and cannabis.

However, the process also works with animal samples and nonvolatile inorganics,

such as iodine or mercurochrome.

A tincture is a trace or indication that reveals the presence of something. In

pharmacology, a tincture is type of medicine extracted from a plant in an alcohol

solution. There are many meanings to the word tincture, but most of them

involve something that leaves a trace or residue.

Herbal Tinctures

Herbal tinctures are herbs extracted in alcohol. They contain fats and water

soluble ingredients and can be used for a variety of healing purposes as well as

having astringent and antiseptic properties. Use no more that 10% tincture in

facial water or the alcohol will dry out the skin.

Typical Tincture Preparation

For an herbal preparation, for example:

Place herbs in a container.

Cover with an alcohol solution containing 40% ethanol, or a higher

concentration. Vodka or Everclear are popular choices. Denatured alcohol

is not suitable for tinctures to be taken orally.

http://chemistry.about.com/od/dictionariesglossaries/g/defalcohol.htm

http://chemistry.about.com/od/chemistryglossary/a/solventdef.htm


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Seal the container and let it sit for 2-3 weeks, shaking the jar ever now

and then to ensure a good extraction.

Filter out the plant matter. Save the liquid (the tincture), keeping it in a

dark-coloured bottle, away from direct sunlight and heat.

Emulsifiers

Emulsifiers enable substances which normally cannot be mixed together such as

oil and water to be mixed together to produce creams and lotions – and are also

used in the food industry. Nature provides us with only a few emulsifiers such as

Lecithin and Egg Yolk. Emulsifiers used in cosmetic ingredients should be

sourced from natural ingredients such as Vegetable oils and Vegetable based

Raw Materials e.g. VE and MF Emulsifier, which are sourced from Coconut and

Palm Oils and used as vegan ingredients in ice creams and breads in Scandinavia.

Base Emulsifier (NB) (Glyceryl monostearate)

A vegetable based emulsifier from Stearic and Palmitic Acid which makes creams

light

Cetyl Alcohol

Cetanol (C16H33=H) is a firm, white wax, which melts at 48 degrees C. It is not

water- soluble but will dissolve in alcohol, ether or fatty oils. It used be taken

from the sperm whale but is now taken from Palm Oil Fatty Acid (Palmitic Acid),

which is treated with liquid gas so the free oxygen atom is removed. Cetyl

Alcohol stabilises emulsification giving creams and lotions a firmer consistency

and it makes the skin feel soft and smooth.

Emulsifan (NS) (Polysorbate 20)

A liquid emulsifier for perfumes and Essential Oils, which remains effective even

when a high percentage of Essential Oils are used in products. Good for

mosquito repellents, bath products and pet products.


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MF Emulsifier (NB) (Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate)

An easy to use vegetable based emulsifier derived from Lactic acid and vegetable

based Stearic acid. It is used for creams and lotions, however it needs to be used

in combination with VE Emulsifier. Both MF and VE emulsifiers are used to

make vegan ice cream in the Scandinavian food industry.

VE Emulsifier (NB) (Glyceryl Stearate)

An easy to use vegetable based emulsifier produced from Coconut oil and Palm

Kernel Oil. It is used for creams and lotions and used in the food industry.

Moisturisers

Skin can become dehydrated when exposed to weather, sun, harsh cleansers and

aging. A moisturiser can either act as a humectant or as an occlusive. The

humectants are hydrophilic (water loving) so will bind with water-biding agents

and keep the skin soft and pliant by retaining water and binding it to the skin.

An occlusive (fat, wax or vegetable oil with a large molecular structure), prevents

moisture loss by forming an layer on the skin. Jojobo oil is an excellent occlusive

because of its high wax content.

Carbamide Moisturiser Crystals (S) (Urea)

Synthesised from Ammonia and Carbon Dioxide.

Dosage - up to 10% for softening the feet.

3 – 5%in deodorants, foot and hand creams for moisturising and antiseptic

purposes.

Glycerine (Glycerol) (NB) (Glycerine)

Used to retain moisture and as a softening agent in hair lotions, skin and hand

creams, balsams, liquid soaps etc.

Dosage – 2 – 4%


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Honey Moisturiser (NS) (Hydroxy-proplytrimomium honey)

Made from honey. It has a low viscosity and a pleasant feel on the skin and is

twice as effective as glycerine so less can be used for the same effect.

Hair products

Gives lustre and shine, smoothes hair shafts, improves hair structure. Leave in

conditioner; stops curly hair from frizzing.

used in styling products, shampoos, hair cream packs, gel based serums to

strengthen the hair.

Face and Body

Body wash products and shower gels – pleasant on the skin, increases moisture

absorption and keeps skin soft and supple.

Hand and body lotions – nourishing.

Toners – softens and hydrates.

Cleansers – softens skin and makes it more receptive to products afterwards.

Gel serums – makes skin more pliable.

How to use it:

Water soluble so cannot be used in oil only products.

Add in stage 3 of creams and lotiopns (under 40 degrees C)

Dosage – 2 – 5% in hair and skin products.

NFF Complex (NB) (Sodium Lactate, Sodium PCA, Urea, Hydrolysed

Vegetable Protein, Sodium Ph)

Natural vegetable based moisturiser made from amongst other ingredients, Soya

beans and Asparagus extract. It adds 60 – 70% more moisture as it binds

moisture deeper into the epidermis.

Dosage – 2 – 4% in creams and lotions.


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SAFETY - MOISTURISERS

Moisturisers should not be used in large quantities. Glycerine and D-Panthenol

should not be used in concentrations of more than 8 – 10%. Beyond this level

they can cause itchy, syrupy feeling on the skin. Carbamide in large quantities

will dissolve the outermost layers of the skin consisting of dead skin cells

Thickening Agents

These are raw materials for natural cosmetics and skin care products and consist

of natural polysaccharides. When mixed and beaten together with water, they

produce gels, which protect, moisturise and soften the skin.

Thickening agents can also be used as secondary “help” emulsifiers in creams

and lotions that contain many different raw materials, which in turn make the

product more difficult to blend and therefore more likely to separate.

Carrageen Powder (N) (Carrageenan)

Whisk steadily into warm water, while heating the water to boiling. It will

thicken at boiling point and can be used as a natural gel and thickener for liquid

soap, shower gels, shampoos and make up products.

Dosage – 0.5 – 2 %

Xanthan Gum (NB) (Xanthan Gum)

A polysaccharide, which, is produced by fermenting glucose and is used in the

food industry for making salad dressings and replaces gluten in gluten free

bread.

The granules are sprinkled into water while whisking and produces a gel which

is not totally clear.

Dosage – 0.5 – 2%


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Active Ingredients

These are active, natural raw materials derived from a variety of sources, which

will enhance and add value to your hair and skin care products.

Aloe Vera concentrate (Aloe barbadensis)

This is a 1:9 liquid concentrate, from the whole leaf. It is cold pressed and grown

in Mexico (Aromantic stocks). It contains 96% water and Glucomannan,

steroids, enzymes, growth hormones, vitamins, minerals and small quantities of

Aloin. The enzymes are destroyed when they are heated over 70 Degrees C so

powdered Aloe Vera will have a much weaker effect then fresh or concentrated.

It is a viscous substance which when applied topically can build a protective

barrier against mechanical and chemical irritation and is affective against

bacterial and fungi because of its bactericidal effect.

It can also be taken internally to help soothe, heal and support the intestinal

tract.

It is used to make Aloe Vera gel and can also be added directly to creams, lotions,

gel, shower gels for its pain relieving, antiseptic and healing properties. It can be

used on wounds, burns, cuts grazes, sunburn, psoriasis, eczema, acne and help

minimise scar tissue from wound, burns, etc. It is useful for products for dry and

sensitive skin or dry hair.

NOTE: When used for dry skin, add up to 3% vegetable oil as a fat restoring

agent, otherwise the skin will fell dry and tight if using the gel continuously over

a longer period. A good oil to choose from would be Apricot Kernel, which is


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suitable for most skin types. The drier oils such as Thistle and Borage are not

suitable as fat restoring agents.

Honey Powder

This dehydrated powdered, natural honey powder can be used in LOTS of products.

Use it in scrubs, masks, instead of or in addition to sugars, in soap instead of liquid

honey, in edible powders, in creams and lotions, and in milk baths as a skin softener.

Store dry products and raw powder in airtight containers.

Bisabolol

Bisabolol is the main principle of German Chamomile (Matricaria chamomile) and

has been used in traditional medicine in Europe for hundreds of years. It has anti-

inflammatory, anti-bacterial, anti-mycotic, non allergic effects and helps protect the

skin against all kinds of daily stress.

Natural Alpha-Bisabolol is used in cosmetic products such as ointments, creams and

lotions because of its compatibility with the skin.

It can be added to the following personal care products:

Acne treatment preparations

Aftershave 0.5%

Body Lotions

Body Scrubs

Hair treatment creams

Hand wash lotions

Mouthwash/ Tooth paste and Oral hygiene preparations

Moisturisers and skin care creams

Sunscreen and before and after sun creams and lotions

Shiny lip-gloss (1%)


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Hyaluronic Acid (NK) (Aqua, Sodium Hyaluronate)

Hyaluronic acid is what gives the skin its volume and fullness and during the aging

process wrinkles and folds form as a result in its loss. It is commonly known as “the

fountain of youth”. It helps rejuvenate the skin, keep it smooth and soft, and exhibits

elastic and pseudoplastic properties.

It can be added to hand and body lotions, creams, night creams, cleansers, gels, eye

gels and serums. Only buy Hyalauronic acid that is made by producing enzymes from

a bacteria-based biofermentation process and not sourced from poultry (roosters’

combs).

Dosage – 1%

Remodelling Intense (N) (Caprylic/Capric Tryglyceride : Spilanathes Acmelia

Flower Extract)

The active ingredient in Remodelling Intense restructures, firms and smoothes the

face and body. For use as anti-ageing products, it can be mixed directly into oil based

blends and serums, and ensure the temperature is under 40 Degrees C when mixing

into creams and gels, in body sculpting products and for anti-stretch mark treatments.

Dosage – 2%

Vitamins

Vitamin A Palmitate (N) (Retinol Palmitate)

Vitamin A plays an important role in the functioning of the eyes ad the making of

new skin and mucous membranes. It prevents infections in the mucous membranes


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(respiratory). Vitamin A nourishes the skin, protects against free radical damage,

counteracts inflammations, and helps prevent skin disorders.

The Vitamin A used in cosmetics if produced synthetically. The natural compoounds

found in Beta Carotene are stabilised by mixing organic acids such as Acetic Acid to

produce Retinol Acetate, or Palmitic Acid to produce Retinol Palmitate.

It is used in skin products for dry, aging lifeless skin, acne, psoriasis, anti-wrinkle

creams (anti-oxidant), and to treat skin infections.

NB – high concentrations of Vitamin A should be avoided by pregnant women.

Dosage – 0.5 – 2% added while under 40 degrees C

Vitamin C (N) (Ascorbyl Phosphate)

Ascorbyl Phosphate is a new stable form of Vitamin C derivative, which overcomes

the problems normally associated when using Ascorbic Acid in cosmetic products

(i.e. products discolour brown since oxidations will occur with time).

Vitamin C is essential for the formation of collagen and scavenges free radicals,

protects against UVA damage, reduces pigmentation and replenishes Vitamin E.

Use for anti-aging skin care, sun care, oral care, skin lightening and body care.

Dosage – 1 – 10%

Vitamin E Simulated (Tocopherol)

Vitamin E is the name given to several Tocopherols of which alpha-tocopherol is the

most active. Alpha-Tocopherol can be produced chemically (dl-Alpha Tocopherol) or

be extracted from Soybeans and Wheatgerm oil (d-Alpha Tocopherol). Natural

Vitamin E (N) (Tocopherol acetate) is more reactive than its chemically produced

counterpart (N) (Tocopherol) with the same vitamin content.

Simulated natural Vitamin E is of food grade and is used in the food industry

prolonging shelf life.

Simulated Vitamin E acts as an anti-oxidant in the skin and prevents the products

from going rancid. It increases skins elasticity, combats free radical damage,

stimulates the blood circulation and absorbs the sun’s dangerous UV rays.

Dosage – 0.5 – 10% or more depending on the product and its use (Contains 1020 IU

per 1 ml).


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Fats and Waxes

Fats and waxes give consistency and stability to body butters, ointments, lip balms

and creams. Waxes are not absorbed by the skin and therefore form an outer

protective layer and barrier to the elements and help to retain moisture. Different oils

and fats stay on the surface of the skin for different lengths of time. Fats penetrate

deeper down into the surface thus providing some softening and nourishing

properties. Fats and waxes added to products add protective and moisturising

properties.

Beeswax (AN) (Cera flava)

Beeswax

Beeswax gives consistency to ointments, lip balms and lipsticks. It creates a

protective barrier for the skin and lips. Beeswax gives more protection than oils and

fats because of the wax content and because it is also absorbed very slowly by the

skin. Has a melting point at 63 degrees C.

Avocado Butter (N) (Persea gratissima)

Avocado butter is produced from avocado pulp and can be added to creams, sun

creams, lotions, body butters and massage oils.

It is mild, nourishing and is excellent for dry skin patches and mature skin.

Melting point 30 degrees C to 35 degrees C, so melts in contact with the skin.

Cocoa Butter (N) (Theobroma cacao)

Derived from the cocoa bean and is used for cooking and for skin care. It gives

consistency, nourishment, softness and protection when added to ointments, lip


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balms, creams, body butters, massage bars and bath melts. It is specially good for dry

skin. It contains mostly monounsaturated and saturated fatty acids - saturated 59%,

monounsaturated (omega 9) 38%, duounsaturated (omega 6) 03% and

polyunsaturated (omega 3) 0%. It is mild and mostly tolerated.

Melting point 38 degrees C.

Coconut Butter (N) (Cocos nucifera)

It is extracted from coconuts grown on palm trees and used for cooking and skin care.

Used for hair care, body butter, soap and sun care products and adds body when

added to massage oils.

Melting point 25 – 28 degrees C.

Mango Butter (N) (Mangifera indica L)

Refined and produced from mango seed kernels. It consists of 40% saturated fats,

52% monounsaturated (omega 9), 6% duounsaturated (omega 6), and 2%

polyunsaturated (omega 3) fatty acids.

Adds excellent moisturising and lubricating properties to body butters, ointments,

creams, lotions, and lip balms. It is good for use on dry and chapped skin.

Melting point 40 – 45 degrees C

Shea Butter (ORG) (Butyrospermum parkii)

The Shea Tree’s fruit are an important raw material for West Africa and for hundreds

of years the locals have used it for food, medicinal, decorative and cosmetic purposes

and as a protection from the sun and bad weather. The fruit is sweet and the stone

contains 50% oil (butter). The stones (nuts) are crushed and the butter is pressed out.

It is then purified and the free fatty acids and substances prone to oxidisation are


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removed leaving a fat, which is stable and pure and has a mild smell. Shea butter

which has not had the free fatty acids removed has a strong smell and goes rancid

very quickly, so should be avoided.

The cinnamic acid esters consists up to 65% and gives the Shea butter its healing

qualities, and the 5 – 10% phytosterols stimulate the growth of new cells.

It is a skin friendly fat, which helps heal the skin more quickly, and has mildly anti-

bacterial and anti-inflammatory properties. It protects the skin from the sun (SPF 2 –

3), and from drying out (moisture retaining properties).

It is good fro use on damaged skin, stretch marks, during and after pregnancy, eczema

and psoriasis.

It gives a slightly firmer consistency to the final product, but melts and softens on

contact with the skin. Use in creams, sun creams, lotions, body butters and massage

oils.

Melting point 35 – 38 degrees C

Preservatives

If products are to be kept for more than a few weeks a preservative will be necessary

as they are also susceptible to bacteria, just the same as food is. It is important to

choose a preservative, which will cover as wide a range as possible of different

bacteria, fungi and moulds.

Parabens

Certain parabens such as the controversial Butylparaben are often used in the

cosmetic industry and should not be used as they are carcinogenic. Some parabens

i.e. Phenoxethanol, Methylparaben. Ethylparaben, and Propylparaben are used in the

food industry so can be used in a concentration of 0.4 – 8%.

Preservative 12 (Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin)

This preservative was first introduced to the general cosmetic marketplace in 2007

and is tolerated by all skin types and even people with a sensitive skin. The only

disadvantage is that it doesn’t work in products that contain detergents, such as

shampoos, liquid soaps, shower gels and foam baths etc.


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It is stable in varying temperatures and in varying pH values (can be used up to a pH

value of 12).

It is easiest to add it to the 3rd stage in products.

NB – do not use preservative 12 in products with detergents, clays, exfoliating agents

and creams and lotions with a high number of active ingredients.

Dosage - 0.5 – 1%.

Preservative ECO (Benzyl alcohols, Salicylic Acid, Glycerine, Sorbic Acid)

Eco preservative is a broad-spectrum preservative, which can be used in natural skin

and hair care products and n sun products since this anti-microbial blend offers

protection in a diverse range of products against bacteria, yeasts and moulds. It is

safe to use in products with a wide range of pH values (3 – 8).

Always add it in the 3rd

stage under 45 degrees C.

NB – do not eco preservative in aqueous products containing clay.

Dosage – 20 drops (!%) per 100 ml/g of product.

22 drops (1.1%) - herbal decoctions, aqueous exfoliators/ scrubs, and anti-wrinkle

creams with a high number of active ingredients.

Max dosage – 1.5%

VEGETABLE OILS

Fats and oils are vital to life. They provide substance and form, protection and

healing. They are extracted from plants, flowers nuts and seeds and carry fat-soluble

vitamins (e.g. A, D, E and K), minerals and proteins in different amounts depending

on the vegetable oil. Nutritionists have long known the value of oils and fats, and

their necessity in our diets. Therapists working with the skin care should also

appreciate the different values, each particular oil has in meeting a need or resolving a

problem.


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They have astounding benefits and fundamental applications for anyone concerned

with holistic bodywork. They actually form the foundation or even actives in many

formulae and expensive treatments.

Different vegetable oils can be put together to create synergies and research shows

that oils can be “eaten” through the skin, and that the body’s essential fatty acid

requirement can be met by applying for example 15 – 20ml of sunflower, thistle,

hemp, camelina or walnut oil through the skin. When the skin is nourished, warm and

has good circulation it will absorb most of the fatty substances and store them as

deposits.

Essential fatty acids found in the vegetable oils are transformed into prostaglandins in

the cells of the dermis, which the fatty acids are used in the cell membranes.

Prostaglandins (hormone like chemical cellular messengers) are responsible for

control of inflammation, regulating water loss, body temperature, contraction of

smooth muscle, dilation or constriction of blood vessels, passage of substances in and

out of cells and many other physiological functions.

VEGETABLE OILS HIGH IN ESSENTIAL FATTY ACIDS

Sunflower

Grape seed Camelina

Thistle Rosehip

Walnut Hemp

Evening Primrose Kiwi Seed

Borage

NOTE CLASSIFICATION

Top note vegetable oils

Borage, evening primrose, hemp, camelina, kiwi seed, rosehip, walnut.

These oils are high in omega 3 and omega 6 essential fatty acids.

Dry, thin, volatile and active – low viscosity

Absorbed into the skin within minutes after application

Shorter shelf life


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Middle note vegetable oils

Apricot kernel, rice bran, sweet almond

High in mono-unsaturated fatty acids (omega 7 and omega 9)

Have good lubrication qualities

Absorbed into the skin within approximately 10 – 15 minutes

Don’t easily go rancid

Base note vegetable oils

Castor, macadamia nut, moringa, neem, olive, shea butter oil

Fatty oils with a high viscoscity giving weight and consistency to the blend

Skin absorption rate between 15 and 60 minutes

Give good lubrication to the skin

Durable and keep well

Macerated oils

Dried or fresh plant material is macerated by being steeped in vegetable oil, such as

sunflower oil, and agitated daily for several days to 6 weeks. The plant material is

then filtered off leaving behind most of the therapeutic properties and constituents of

the plant material, including traces of essential oils, and the colour of the plant

material. Examples of macerated oils are calendula, comfrey and St John’s Wort oils.

The fatty acid content of macerated oils would depend on the oil that the plant has

been macerated in.

Shelf life depends on the oil used for maceration.

Calendula Oil (Calendula officinalis)


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Calendula (marigold) is one of the best known and versatile healing herbs and is rich

in herbal history, widely used by herbalists throughout history. Culpeper and Gerard

refer to calendula as a comforter of the heart and spirits.

It is a macerated oil so the shelf life depends on the oil that the calendula has been

macerated in.

Due to its carotene content, it is a powerful anti-oxidant and excellent for healing

chapped skin and for treating athlete’s foot. It promotes skin tissue repair, minimises

scar formation, is anti-inflammatory and promotes granulation. It is excellent for

treating varicose ulcers, varicose veins, chronic, slow healing sores such as bedsores,

cuts, sunburn, acne, eczema, rashes, and fungal conditions (synergistic effect when

blended with comfrey oil). It is helpful for nappy rash and soothes sore nipples from

breastfeeding (combine with St John’s Wort).

Other key actions of this plant are that it is astringent, heals wounds, antiseptic,

antifungal, antibacterial, antiviral and it contracts the capillaries.

Comfrey Oil (Symphytum officinalis

Comfrey’s name is derived from the Latin con firma i.e. “with strength”, from the

belief that is could heal broken bones, hence its name “boneset”.


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Macerated comfrey oils (using the roots and/or leaf) are a deep green colour due to

the allantoin content of the comfrey. The high content of allantoin makes it valuable

as a natural cell proliferant. It promotes the growth of new skin cells and helps

sensitive skin to become more resilient, counteracting dryness and cracking.

It is excellent for healing wounds, pain relief, rebuilding damages cell tissue caused

by surgery, acne, eczema and psoriasis. It has rejuvenating, soothing and

moisturising properties, and is excellent for treating rough, damaged skin and can,

with time alleviate wrinkles and enable the skin tissue to regain its youthful elasticity.

It is excellent for healing bruising, for aiding the healing of torn muscles, ligaments,

sprains and strains, for treating bone infections, general body aches and pains, sores

that do not heal, varicose ulcers, varicose veins and boils.

CONTRAINDICATIONS

Do not use comfrey oil/ products in any form when pregnant or breastfeeding.

Do not use if you have a current or historical liver problem.

Do not use externally of new puncture wounds or deep cuts (outer layers of

skin will be stimulated and close and heal the wound before there is time to

drain and regenerate the deeper tissues. In this case use calendula oil until the

wound is healing normally.

Allow a period of 2 – 3 months for post-operative clients, such as people who

have had hip replacements.

St John’s Wort Oil (Hypericum perforatum)

This is a macerated herbal oil, which has a dark reddish brown colour from the

hypericin found in the flowers (specially if the flowers or just opened buds are used

and macerated in olive oil). You can see the hypericin in the petals as it looks like

tiny blood-coloured islands on the yellow-orange petals.


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However, many of the St John’s wort oils available are green colour because the

whole plant was used for extraction/maceration, meaning the cholorphyll content was

inceeases while the hypericin content is proportionally lower.

Use of St John Wort’s herb as an antidepressant, calming and nerve tonic. It has

been shown to help people with seasonal affective disorder, pre menstrual syndrome,

obsessive compulsive disorder, menopause symptoms and viral infections.

Numerous studies show the hypericin appears to help with serotonin elevating mood

and acting as a mild sedative.

Uses in Skin Care

Soothes and calms irritated skins and can be added to creams, lotions and ointments.

Is is antiviral, antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, astringent, anti-inflammatory. It can

be used for the treatment of burns, cuts scraps, bruises, boils, skin irritations, eczema,

psoriasis, rheumatism, haemorrhoids, muscular aches and pains, sciatica, and pains

associated with the nervous system, such as myalgia, shingles, herpes and rashes and

blisters.

CONTRAINDICATIONS

Never add to sun products as it is photosensitive. Even taken internally fair skinned

people are more sensitive to the sun.

Vegetable Carrier Oils

Avocado Oil (Persea gratissima/americana)

It is a mild nourishing semi fat oil rich in vitamins. It is used when the skin is dry,

tired and lacks lustre. Traditionally the Mexicans and South Americans have used the

mashed fruit pulp as protection against the sun and wind. The oil is obtained from the

oily flesh and the pulp usually contains about 15 – 40% oil. The pulp is first dried


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until the fat content is between 40 – 80% of the weight. It is then cold pressed to

extract the green oil. It is also obtained from the seed or stone but is not readily

available.

Abssorption rate – middle

It contains a large quantity of non-lathering substances including lecithin,

betacarotene (the higher the quantity, the more yellow the oil ) vitamins E and D

(more than butter and eggs) and pantothenic acid (vitamin B5), but mostly different

sterols which can have certain cosmetic effects. Also contains traces of chlorophyll,

which makes the oil green.

Uses of Avocado Oil

Good for dark skin, which produces less Vitamin D in restricted sunlight (good for

black skin people living in the northern hemisphere)

Freshens, lifts, gives lustre to tired skin (combine with rice bran oil, dry and mature

skin.

Anti wrinkle and skin regeneration face oils and creams (works well left over night –

specially added to Jojoba to night creams and protective ointments)

Protects against weather and wind and helps to keep moisture in the skin (occlusive)

Natural sun protection factor of 2 – 3 and good to add to pre and post sun care and sun

protection products.

Before sun oils:

Avocado, sesame, rice bran, shea butter oil and vitamin E

After sun oils:

Avocado, sea buckthorn CO2 extract and St John;s wort, rosehip and vitamin E

Add to anti cellulite oils and massage oil blends and creams

Add to body and massage oils blends that help treat rheumatism (combine with st

John’s wort, mullein, and comfrey oils and chamomile CO2 extract and rosemary

essential oil

Gives shine and softness to lip balms and as a hair pack makes hair shiny

Fatty acid Content

Saturated Palmitic Acid 7 – 22%

Stearic Acid 1 – 2%


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Mono-unsaturated Oleic Acid 59 – 70%

Palmitoleic Acid 9 – 10%

Duo-unsaturated Linoleic Acid 8 – 14%

Polyunsaturated Alpha Linolenic Acid 1%

Shelf life 2 – 5 years. To keep longer than 2 years store in dark, cool place

Castor Oil (Ricinus communis)

The vegetable oil is extracted from the castor bean and it yields a fatty, thick, sticky,

liquid, stable oil, which doesn’t go rancid easily and therefore keeps for a long time.

Every fruit has three beans, which contain nearly 50% oil. One part of this oil is the

very poisonous enzyme, ricin. This is a by-product after it has been pressed. The

beans are usually fried or boiled before pressing to remove the ricin or the oil is

heated after cold pressing, which also destroys the poison.

Castor oil is used as a laxative in dosages of 15 – 20ml. For use in skin care, it makes

an excellent cleansing and drawing oil as it draws dirt to itself.

Castor oil is different to other oils in that it can be blended and dispersed with 91%

alcohol, whereas other vegetable oils cannot be dispersed with alcohol. It can be used

in an oil-based perfume as a neutral fixative.

Castor oil is good to use in creams or ointments, which treat dry skin patches on

elbows, knees and heels, as well as eczema and psoriasis. It is absorbed slowly by the

skin, provides water protection, and makes the hair shiny when added together with

drier oils like jojoba when used in hair packs and hair oils.

Fatty Acid Content

Saturated Palmitic Acid 1%

Stearic Acid 2%


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Mono-unsaturated Ricinoleic Acid 75 – 90%

(Omega 9) Oleic Acid 2 – 7%

Duo-unsaturated Linoleic Acid 6%

Shelf life is 2 – 5 Years.

Coconut Oil (liquid Fractionated) (Cocos nucifera)

The solid fatty acids have been removed from the coconut butter so that it become

liquid coconut oil and is used by massage therapists as it has a lighter texture and long

shelf life. It is a fraction of the whole oil, in which most of the long chain

triglycerides have been removed so that only saturated fats remain. This gives it a

near indefinite shelf life. It is best blended with cold pressed oils and vitamins for

skin care.

Absorption note – base

Uses of coconut oil

Good emollient for skin care products (protective), and excellent in hair conditioners

in combination with castor oil (dry hair)

Helps increase hair growth after hair loss and makes the hair shiny and glossy.

Gives softness and lubricating properties to massage creams and lotions

Absorbed slowly by the skin and has a soothing effect on sensitive and irritated skin.


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Several studies show that the saturated fat in coconut oil is metabolised in the body in

the same way as unsaturated fats and as a result, low density lipoproteins (so called

bad cholesterol) will not be increased due to intake of coconut oil.

Fatty acid profile

Saturated Caprylic Acid 55 – 75%

Capricic Acid 25 – 45%

Lauric acid 3%

Caproic Acid 2%

Myristic Acid 1%

Evening Primrose Oil (Oenothera biennis)

Evening primrose oil is cold pressed from the seeds of the evening primrose flower

and is a dry thin oil that is easily absorbed by the skin. It contains a high level of

Gamma Linolenic Acid (8 - 12%), needed by the body to produce prostaglandins.

Therapeutic uses for GLA include treatments for blood circulation disorders, blood

clot reduction, rheumatoid arthritis, hyperactivity in children, diabetes, multiple

sclerosis, nervous disorders, digestive disorders, eczema, psoriasis, acne and other dry

skin complaints and the ageing process.

It has moisture-retaining effects, prevents the skin from drying out, and increases the

skin’s ability to absorb oxygen and withstand disease. It can be added to anti-wrinkle,

skin rejuvenation face oils and serums and to treat scar tissue and help heal wounds.

Since it is dry oil it is best mixed with other vegetable oils.


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Fatty Acid Profile




(omega 9) Linoleic Acid 70 – 75%

Duo-unsaturated Gamma Linolenic Acid 8 – 10%

(omega 6)

Poly-unsaturated Alpha Linoleic Acid 1%

(omega 3)

Shelf life - Due to the high content of GLA it is best to buy evening primrose oil that

has added vitamin E oil or other natural antioxidants, otherwise it will go rancid

within 6 months. Adding 0.5% undiluted vitamin E oil will increase the shelf life to 2

years.

Jojoba Oil (Simmondsia chinensis)

The oil is extracted from the seed of an evergreen desert bush, which can live up to

100 years old and grows to around three metres high. The clear golden yellow oil is

not really a oil, but a liquid wax.

The waxes are often extracted from the oil to produce jojoba peeling grains or beads

for gentle peeling and exfoliating products.

It is ideal for skin and hair care. It softens and protects the skin and helps it to retain

moisture. It offers good lubrication and has a half dry, smooth and non-sticky feeling

on the skin. It contains myristic acid which has anti-inflammatory actions and is good

to use for acne since it tricks the skin into stopping the over production of sebum

through mimicking sebum and assisting in the breakdown of sebum in plugged up

pores. It helps balance the sebaceous gland activity in all skin types. It has


35

antibacterial and antifungal properties and is tolerated by most skin types and

conditions.

100% jojoba can be used as a make up remover, and can be added in hair treatments,

protective face oils, lip balms, protective hand and foot balms, body lotions and in

baby products to treat sensitive skin and nappy rash.

Jojoba is the best vegetable oil- based occlusive (helps control loss of water and

moisture through the skin), and helps to control flaking and dryness of the skin and

fight wrinkles.

Fatty Acid Profile


Mono-unsaturated Oleic Acid 5 -15%

(omega 7 & 9) Palmitoleic Acid 1%

Erucic Acid 10 – 20%

Gadoleic Acid 66 – 88%

Duo-unsaturated Linoleic Acid 0.3%

(omega 6)

Poly-unsaturated Alpha Linolenic Acid 0.2%

(omega 3)

Shelf life 4 – 5 years

Kiwi Seed Oil Actinidia Chinensis seed oil, Tocopherol, Helianthus Arnus Seed

oil)

Unique oil as it contains a very high level of omega 3 fatty acids (up to 65%) and

other micro nutrients


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0.5% vitamin E oil is added at Aromantic to keep it for 1-1.5 years but as this is a

very fragile oil, it needs to be stored cold in a fridge, but not in the door as it is then

shaken every time you open the door.

Skin studies have shown that it improves skin condition & protects against moisture

loss. Has an excellent after-feel & absorbs easily making it the perfect ingredient in

face creams & hair conditioning creams. It is soft & smooth, making it suitable for

sensitive skin.

Kiwi seed oil is excellent for treating sensitive and oily and large-pored skin as it

helps to rebalance the skin because of the oil’s very low freezing point. It is useful in

the repair of damaged skin tissue, and skin overexposed to sunlight, and reducing or

healing fine lines around the eyes, wrinkles and scars.

The very dry, thin appearance on the skin makes kiwi seed oil a very good anti-

wrinkle/skin rejuvenation oil. It helps to give elasticity to the skin and can be used in

face oils, serums and in creams. The high alpha linolenic acid content of kiwi seed oil

helps to maintain moisture in the skin and hair. Include it in formulations for healing

dry, scaled or damaged skin or hair. It is an excellent emollient with extremely good

skin penetration and does not leave an oily feel and reduces the fattiness of other oils.

Excellent for treating large pores due to the high content of omega 6 and 3 essential

fatty acids.

It’s good for adding to eye and after-sun products.

Baby products

As kiwi seed oil is very soft and smooth on the skin, it is excellent for adding to

products for babies when it is best blended with fattier oils such as rice bran, avocado

and apricot kernel.

For Anti-Wrinkle and Skin Rejuvenation Oil Blends

Kiwi seed oil blends well with camelina (which also makes the blend cheaper),

rosehip, chia seed, blueberry seed and evening primrose oils. Excluding the camelina

oil makes this blend suitable for sensitive and/or acne-prone skin.

Rebalancing oily and large-pored skin to more normal skin

Blend kiwi seed oil in face oils and serums with camelina, chia seed, blueberry seed,

rosehip, hemp seed and squalane.

Fatty Acid Profile


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Stearic Acid 3%

Mono-unsaturated Oleic Acid 11.6%

Vaccenic Acid >0.3%

Duo unsaturated Linoleic Acid 15%

Poly unsaturated Alpha Linolenic Acid 60 – 65%

Macademia Nut Oil (macadamia tetraphylla)

The vegetable oil is pressed from the nuts of the Macadamia tetraphylla tree, which

originated in Australia. The nuts, which contain about 75% oil are cold pressed

yielding a clear, light yellow to golden yellow, very fatty oil which is soft and smooth

and nice to use. The skin readily but slowly absorbs it so is especially good for

mature and dry skin and skin which does not retain moisture. It is one of the best oils

for mature skin and protects against the elements so is protective to the skin (palmitic

acid is vital to reduce the skin’s aging process).

The oil can be safely used around the eyes in eye care creams and oils. It is useful for

skin circulation problems. It can be used in ointments, balms, anti-aging and anti-

wrinkle creams, lotions and oil blends. It has a natural sun protection factor (SFP) of

4 so counteracts the skin aging process when sunbathing and excellent for adding to

sun care oils and creams.

It is tolerated by most skin types, but not recommended for oily or acne skin or skin

with large pores, since it can clog pores due to its high content of saturated fatty acids

(up to 20%).

Since it only contain up to 2% of essential fatty acids, blend it with vegetable oils rich

in essential fatty acids such as safflower (thistle) or borage oils for more nourishment.


38

Fatty Acid Profile

Saturated Palmitic Acid 7 – 9.5%


Arachidic Acid 1.5 – 3%

Lauric Acid 1%

Myristic Acid 1%


(Omega 7 & 9 Palmitoleic Acid 20%

Eicosenoic Acid 1.5 – 2.5%

Duo-unsaturated Linoleic Acid 5%

(omega 6)

Poly-unsaturated Alpha Linolenic Acid 2%

(omega 3)


Palm and Palm Kernel Oil (Elaeis guineensis)

The oil is extracted from the plum-like fleshy, oval-shaped fruits of the palm tree.

The colour of the oil varies from yellow to reddish depending upon the carotenes

present.

Like Olive and Avocado, Palm oil is nut free, coming from the flesh and due to its

content of carotenoids, which promotes vitamin A activity in the skin, it aids cell

regeneration and helps maintain a healthy and moist skin by reinforcing the skin’s

protective barrier. Palm oil is used in skin care products for damaged, tired and


39

mature skin treatment creams, sun preparations, lip balms, hand creams and in hair

conditioners.

Fatty Acid Profile




Poly-unsaturated Linoleic acid 9 – 11%

Contains alpha and beta-carotenes, these vitamin A precursors can contribute to a

valuable product.

The kernel or seed yields a light yellow oil which solidifies at

lower temperatures. Most of the oil goes into the soap and detergent industries. Palm

kernel oil is useful and versatile oil and is used in a variety of products, from

lotions and cosmetics to delicious (and calorie-rich) desserts. While called an

“oil,” unrefined virgin palm kernel oil is actually the consistency of butter at

room temperature (like a white, very fatty and soft wax), making it an ideal base

for body butters, soaps and salves. In its purest form, it is a beautiful light brown

colour and has a unique, rich, nutty caramel fragrance.

It is a wonderful moisturizer for skin, lips, hair and nails, and provides cooling

relief for itchy skin and ragged cuticles.

It is often used in soaps as it saponifies easily.

Fatty Acid profile

Saturated Caprylic acid 2 – 6%

Capric acid 3 – 5%

Lauric acid 40 – 55%

Myristic acid 14 – 18%

Palmitic acid 6 – 10%

Mono-unsaturated Oleic acid 23 – 20%


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Peach Kernel Oil (Prunus persica)

Peach kernel oil is a semi-fatty oil that has the same properties as apricot kernel

oil. It spreads well and is easily absorbed by the skin, although absorption rate is

20 to 50 minutes. It is tolerated by most people, and is good for sensitive,

inflamed, dry or mature skin. It enhances the skin’s elasticity and imparts a soft

and smooth feeling on the skin.

All the Prunus oils (almond, peach and apricot) have very similar properties and

effects on the skin, although peach kernel seems to have more body and a little

richer.

Peach kernel can be effectively used in products for sensitive skin, and anti-

wrinkle/ skin rejuvenation treatments, anti-wrinkle eye creams, eczema and

itchy skin, skin cleansers and peelers, acne treatment creams and oils, and in

massage lotions.

Fatty Acid Profile



Arachidic Acid 0.5%


Palmitoleic Acid 1%

Duo-unsaturated Linoleic Acid 25 0 30%



Pumpkin Seed Oil (Cucurbita maxima)


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Pumpkin seed oil is cold pressed from the seeds and has a dark, yellow-orange

colour with a powerful taste and smell. It is high in omega 3, 6, and 9 and

vitamins A, betacarotene, B2, B3, potassium, magnesium and zinc.

Because of the high zinc it is excellent as a lifting oil for dry, mature and damaged

skin, and for use in products such as facial, abdominal, upper leg, breast and

buttock where this lifting effect is required.

Use less oil in facial products because of its strong smell.

Fatty acid profile





Poly-unsaturated Alpha Lnolenic Acid 15%

Shelf life is 1.5 – 2 years.

Red Raspberry Seed Oil (Rubus idaeus)


42

Raspberry Seed Oil is excellent for sensitive skin and is deeply nourishing, softening,

emollient, conditioning, and a lipid barrier providing protection and moisture

retention for the skin. It may also be used in the sunscreen industry due to its UV

absorbing properties. Some studies show it could have a natural sun protection factor

perhaps as high as between 28 and 50. It also contains extremely high levels of alpha

and gamma tocopherols (vitamin E), vitamin A, approximately 30% of omega 3 and

54% of omega 6 fatty acids, so with approximately 84% content of essential fatty

acids, it gives the skin a vital broad spectrum defence from harmful UVA and UVB

rays. Red raspberry seed oil is an ideal choice to use as the main vegetable oil in your

sun care products.

Content of Oil-Soluble Vitamins in in Red Raspberry Seed Oil

Carotenoids (Vitamin A) 23mg per 100ml of oil

Tocopherols (E Vitamin) 61mg per 100ml of oil

(both Alpha and Gamma-Tocopherol)

Red raspberry seed oils is excellent to use in all sensitive skin products.

Used in hair care, skin care, creams, lotions, balms, body butters, sun creams lotions

and oils.

Suggested Dosage Levels

Face Creams/Lotions - 2-10%

Sun Creams/Lotions - 5-20%

Healing Creams (Anti-inflammatory) - up to 15%

Sun Oils - up to 100%

Sun Oils, Creams and Lotions

Use up to 100% in Sun Oils or combine 95% with 5% Vitamin E Oil. Use up to 15%

in sun creams and lotions, possibly along with Shea butter oil to make it more fatty

for dry/mature skin.

In sun cream/lotion blend it with microfine Titanium Dioxide or Tiosol or Jojoba,

Sesame or Rice Bran oil.

In all sun care products combine with vitamins.

Remember that the oil is very very dry and therefore people with dry/mature skin


43

types can feel that Raspberry Seed Oil on its own it may feel to dry on the skin. Add

fatty fats or oils to the formula such as Shea Butter oil, Rice Bran, Jojoba or Vitamin

E oil.

For sensitive skin products blend with Apricot, Kiwi seed, Chia Seed, Blueberry seed

and Rosehip oil.

Skin Barrier/Protection

In skin care products that act as a barrier to protect the skin combine with up to 1%

beeswax, jojoba and shea butter oil.

Rice Bran Oil (Oryza sativa)

Rice bran oil is a very pale yellow oil with a medium viscoscity and is well suited to massage both for face and body work

Rice bran oil is made from the husk or bran as well as the germ of the seeds. It has skin softening, restructuring and moisturising properties and is also anti-oxidant. It decreases cholesterol, combats the effect of stress, improves blood circulation and reduces inflammation.

It is used in hair shampoos for damaged and fine hair, moisturising creams for dry, mature skins, lip balms and particularly for around the eyes since it reduces puffiness and dark circles.

Top to middle note – a half fatty to half dry oil.

Fatty Acid Profile

Linoleic acid 32 – 47%

Oleic acid 32 – 38%

Palmitic acid 13 – 25%


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Steric acid 2 – 3%

Linolenic acid 1 – 3%

Shelf life – 2 to 3 years

Rosehip Oil (Rosa rubiginosa)

The seeds contain approximately 9% oil and they yield a dry to very dry and thin

oil, which has soothing, moisturising, and softening effects on the skin. Rosehip

is the only vegetable oil that contains natural tretinoin, the acid form of vitamin

A also known as all-trans-retinoic acid of ATRA in quantities of 125mcg per

every 100g. Because of this it is valuable in treating all kinds of skin infections

such as acne, pimples and boils.

It also repairs damaged skin tissue caused by scalds, burns, chemotherapy,

varicose veins and skin pigmentation and skin over-exposed to sunlight. It can

be used for oily skin, large pores, sensitive skin, healing and reducing fine lines

around the eyes and lips, wrinkles and scars. It gives elasticity to the skin,

returns colour and life to damaged skin and is absorbed rapidly so is a excellent

facial oil.

Rosehip oil can be used in anti-cellulite blends, in oil blends for treating adhesive

capsulitis (frozen shoulder), rheumatism, healing bed-sores and hair treatment


45

oils. Along with apricot and peach kernel oil, rosehip oil is the classic oil for

sensitive skin. These oils are soft and smooth on the skin.

The organic oil has a strong, distinct smell, so using a base essential oil may mask

the smell if it is unpleasant.

Rosehip is amongst the best vegetable oil source of omega 3, and is also a good

source of omega 6 (essential fatty acids - collectively known as vitamin F).

Fatty Acid Profile


Stearic Acid 2%

Arachidic Acid 1%

Mon-unsaturated Oleic Acid 13 – 19%

Palmitoleic Acid 1%

Eicosenoic Acid 1%


Poly-unsaturated Alpha Linolenic Acid 25 – 36%

Shelf life

Rosehip will go rancid within 6 months due to the polyunsaturated fatty acids.

Adding 0.5% undiluted vitamin E, or an equivalent anti-oxidant will increase the

shelf life to 2 years.

Sesame Oil (Sesamum indicum)


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Only the cold pressed oil should be used for skin care. The seed contains 50% oil

and yields a light yellow-gold half fatty oil with a subtle taste and smell, and is

absorbed quite slowly by the skin so offers good lubrication. Sesame oil is a good

skin care oil for sun oils as it has a SFP of 2 – 3. The phenolic substance sesamol

works as an anti-oxidant keeping the oil fresh.

Sesame oil offers good protection and is often used in the treatment of eczema

and psoriasis. It is used extensively in India for healing and it is naturally

antibacterial and antifungal. Studies in USA have shown bacteria in the mouth

(gingivitis), was reduced by 85% when used as a mouth rinse.

Ayurvedic therapy uses sesame oil to speed up cell metabolism in the body,

thereby helping to rejuvenate and heal the body.

It can be added to protective oil blends and creams for facial nourishing, masks,

wraps, ointments, balms, lip balms, to restore cuticles and nails, sun oils, baby

oils, and massage oils for dry, mature or sensitive skin.

So apart from emollience, the integrity of the skin structure is reinforced and

free radical scavenging activity is present making this a very practical oil for face

and body.

Fatty Acid Profile



Arachidic Acid 1%

Behenic Acid 0.5%

Mon-unsaturated Oleic Acid 36 – 46%

Palmitoleic Acid 0.5%

Eicosenoic Acid 0.5%

Duo-unsaturated Linoleic Acid 38 -45%

Poly-unsaturated Alpha Linolenic Acid 1 – 1.5%


Sunflower Oil (Helianthus anuus)


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Sunflower oil extracted from the sunflower seeds is a thin, dry, runny and light

yellow oil. Medicinally the oil contains inulin, effective in the treatment of

asthma and other respiratory complaints. It is a dry oil containing a high level of

linoleic acid (omega 6), so is very nourishing for the skin. It spreads well and is

absorbed relatively quickly by the skin, without leaving a sticky feeling. In a

product it helps active ingredients be absorbed more quickly into the skin,

thereby enhancing their effects.

However, it can feel a little rough on the skin so is best to blend with fattier,

softer and longer oils such as avocado, apricot kernel, sweet almond, olive oil etc.

It can be used for all skin types, even oily skin and has good pore reduction

qualities. It resembles human sebum and is a neutral oil in the sense that it

mirrors the natural skin lipids.

Its high linoleic acid content makes it good for treating skin bruises, leg ulcers

and in products that treat haemorrhoids and in cellulite blends.

Sunflower oil can be added to acne, eczema and psoriasis treatment products,

hair care products (used to treat seborrhoea and damaged hair), bath oil blends,

homemade soaps, massage oils, creams an lotions. When it is added to creams

and lotions it will make them lighter and drier and the high lecithin content helps

to emulsify recipes where the cream separates easily.

Fatty Acid Profile



Arachidic Acid 1 – 1.5%

Myristic Acid 0.5%

Behenic Acid 1%



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Palmitoleic Acid 1%




Shelf life 1.5 – 2 years

Sweet Almond Oil (Prunus amygdalus dulcis)

Sweet almond oil is obtained from the oil of the almond tree and yields a clear,

light yellow oil with a pleasant taste and odour. It is a classic, mild, soft, smooth

and semi-fatty oil, which spreads nicely and makes skin soft and smooth and

supple. Sweet almond oil is absorbed slowly by the skin, and blends will with all

different types of vegetable oil.

It is good for all skin types (check for nut allergies with client) and considered

mild and non-irritating. It is excellent in products for itchy skin, baby products,

eczema, psoriasis, acne creams, make up removers and in cleansing products

(use up to 100%), hair packs and oils, and in oil-based perfumes.

Fatty Acid Profile


Stearic Acid 0.5 – 2%


Palmitoleic Acid 0.4 – 0.7%



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Shelf life 2 – 2.5 years

Thistle Oil / Safflower oil (Carthamus tinctorius)

Thistle oil is a member of the thistle family and produces its seed in the heads. It

is a dry to very thin oil, which is refined or cold pressed from these seeds.

Thistle oil is an excellent source of omega 6 & 3 essential fatty acids (also known

as vitamin F). Of all vegetable oils thistle oil has the highest content of linoleic

acid (omega 6), and can be used in all kinds of skin care products as it is easy to

absorb. Since it is relatively cheap a small amount could be put in every thing to

provide nourishment to the skin and body.

It is a very dry oil so is too rough to use on its own, but mix it with fattier oils,

specially for sensitive, mature skin.

It is suitable for all skin types and can be used for oily, large pored or acne prone

skin, eczema, and thin and sensitive or damaged skin, that results from the

topical use of cortisone treatments. The use of corticosteroids will thin the skin,

so thistle oil can improve the condition after a few weeks.

It can be used to increase the circulation and is useful for cold feet and legs,

cramps, swollen feet or legs, blemishes, pain, leg ulcers, broken nails, itching

scars and chapped skin.


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Fatty Acid Profile




Palmitoleic Acid 0.5%



Shelf life 2 years

SKIN AND BODY OILS

Vegetable fats and oils are absorbed by the skin and are needed to create new skin cells, nourish the skin and provide vitamins (such as pro vitamin A, D, and E). Since natural vegetable oils contain Essential Fatty Acids, they help the skin to function better, and help resolve some of the simpler skin problems.

Vegetable oils are absorbed into the skin at different rates depending on whether they are top, middle or base notes. The top vegetable oils are absorbed more quickly, while the base oils have a slower absorption rate.

Essential oils can be added to these recipes. The percentage will depend on whether the recipe is for a facial blend or a body blend.

These recipes make 100ml.

NORMAL SKIN OIL

35ml Jojoba Oil

33ml Sweet Almond Oil

30ml Thistle/Sunflower Oil

2ml/g Vitamin E Oil (undiluted)

Essential oils to be added;

Bergamot, Cedarwood, Geranium, Jasmine, Lavender, Mandarin, Neroli,, Roman Chamomile, Rose, Rosewood, Ylang Ylang etc

DRY/MATURE SKIN OIL

35ml Apricot Kernel Oil

35ml Macadamia Nut Oil


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10ml Rosehip Oil

10ml Evening Primrose Oil

5ml/g Vitamin E Oil

Essential oils to be added:

Cedarwood, Frankincense, Geranium, Jasmine, Lavender, Neroli, Orange, Patchouli, Rose, Rosewood, Sandalwood, Ylang Ylang etc

OILY/ACNE SKIN OIL

50ml Thistle Oil

30ml Jojoba Oil

20ml Avocado Oil


Bergamot, Cedarwood, Cypress, Eucalyptus, Frankincense, Geranium, Juniper, Lavender, Lemon, Orange, Peppermint, Rose, Rosemary, Sandalwood, Tea Tree, Ylang Ylang etc

SENSITIVE SKIN OIL


15ml Sweet Almond Oil

14ml Sesame Oil

10ml Rosehip Oil



Roman Chamomile, Jasmine, Lavender, Mandarin, Orange, Neroli, Rose, Sandalwood

BODY OIL

40ml Sunflower Oil

30ml Macadamia Nut Oil

27ml Jojoba Oil


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3ml Vitamin E Oil

Essential Oils:

Add between 25 to 30 drops of chosen blend

BABY OIL

40ml Sesame Oil

40ml Avocado Oil

18ml Thistle Oil


BODY OIL (Kitty”s recipe)

30ml Sunflower Oil

10ml Sesame Oil

27ml, Macadamia Nut Oil

10ml Rosehip Oil

20ml Jojoba Oil

3ml Vitamin E Oil

Essential Oils: 18 drops Geraniium, 14 Petitgrain, 8 Vetiver

SIMPLE SUN OIL

33ml Red Raspberry Seed Oil

50ml Jojoba Oil

16g Tiosol

1ml/g Vitamin E Oil

Up to 0.5% Essential Oils* (Optional)

Stir the mix together or pour into a bottle and shake before use

RASPBERRY SUN OIL


29ml Rice Bran Oil

4ml/g Vitamin E Oil


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5 drops Rosemary CO2 Extract


KIWI FACIAL SERUM for all skin types

70ml Kiwi Seed Oil


8ml Rosehip Oil

0.5ml/g Vitamin A Palmitate

10 drops Rosemary Antioxidant (CO2 Extract)


KIWI SEED FACE OIL for all skin types

A dry, thin oil for all skin types. If used for very oily skin, then reduce the Vitamin E

content to 8-10ml/g/% and replace with 10-12ml of chia seed oil

75ml Kiwi Seed Oil





FACE/ANTI-WRINKLE OIL FOR OILY SKIN

60ml Kiwi seed oil


10ml Rosehip Oil

8 ml Jojoba Oil


2 ml/g Vitamin A Palmitate

5 drops Rosemary Antioxidant (CO2 extract)

HYDROSOLS / HYDROLATS / FLORAL WATERS


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The word hydrosol is a chemistry term meaning “water solution”. It is derived from the Latin hydro, meaning “water”, and sol, for “solution”. In the world of aromatherapy, hydrosols are also known as hydrolates, hydrolats, floral waters, and plant waters. Hydrolate uses hydro, “water”, and late, from the French lait, for “milk”. When a hydrolat first comes off the still, and often for some time afterward, it will be slightly milky, owing to the quantity and nature of the various plant substances and essential oils dissolved in the water.

Flowers, roots, bark, branches, wood, needles and leaves, even fruit and seeds can produce both oils and hydrosols. During the process of distillation the volatile components are separated off and called essential oils and the larger, water-soluble components remain in the finished water.

Hydrosols can be likened to holograms of the plant. The word “holistic” is derived from the word “hologram”. Hydrosols contain all of the plant in every drop, just like a hologram. Here we have the water-soluble components, the essential oil molecules, the very fluid that was flowing through the plant cells when the plant was collected. Its all there in the matrix of the water that is so much more than water, one of the most recognized holographic substances in healing.

Hydrosols are amazing liquids with taste and smell and chemical makeup and therapeutic properties. They are gentle to use and effective in a mildly therapeutic way. Generally calming and soothing with very few contraindications, hydrosols can be safely used with children, animals, in combination with homeopathic remedies and for those with a fragile immune system when stronger treatments may not be so well tolerated. Already significantly milder than essential oils; water soluble for ease of application, absorption, and ingestion; and diluted down to homeopathic proportions, they are the obvious choice for special conditions. Everything about them is gentle – the smell, the chemistry, and the potency – but they remain highly effective.

METHODS OF USE (Penny Price – www.penny-price.com) (Suzanne Catty)

Use hydrolats (hydrosols) as they are, as skin toners, facial cleansers, hair rinses, for aromatic baths, baby baths, on compresses or in sprays for freshening the

http://www.penny-price.com/


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skin. They can also be used to replace, or partially replace water in various skin care products along with other ingredients (facemasks).

SKIN TREATMENTS

Use hydrolats as cleansers, toners, to make masks and for facial spritzers, in scrubs and as compresses on body parts, the face and eyes. Cotton balls or pads can be saturated with the appropriate hydrosol (e.g to treat tired, puffy eyes, conjuncitivitis or as a five minute lift before applying makeup.) Either use 50/50 with purified water or undiluted.

Undiluted hydrosol is the best choice for treating skin conditions. Dermatitis, eczema, psoriasis, poison ivy, and cuts and wounds respond very well to topical application of neat hydrosol.

Skin Care

It is wonderful to treat inflammatory conditions of the skin, and calms rashes, sensitivities, rosacea, acne, heat rash and redness. It is excellent to calm the itching of eczema and psoriasis and to soothe flaky, itchy skin. Use is like lavender to treat burns and sunburns. It is fairly astringent owing to its acid pH so do not use it singly of long term on very dry skin. Combined with neroli it is good for acneic conditions and oily skin; combine it with witch hazel for mature skin and with lavender or geranium for very dry skin.

It is the best all-in-one makeup remover, skin cleanser, and toner. The water should be applied as a skin toner, on a soft piece of lint/cotton wool and dapped over the affected area. Gauze can be soaked in the hydrolat and placed over the face or affected are and left for 45 minutes.

MAKE UP REMOVER

Roman Chamomile, cornflower, and geranium are the most effective in that order. Apply the hydrosol to a cotton pad and gently wipe over the skin.

TONER

Neroli, rock rose, yarrow, and sage are some of the most astringent and therefore the most toning. They are also good antioxidants. They can be patted onto clean skin or misted over the face as a spritzer.

ROOM FRESHENERS

Spray liberally around pets, cooking areas, bedroom and other areas of your environment.

MOUTWASH OR GARGLE

Dilute 1:10 for children and 1:4 for adults for gargles and mouthwashes to help strengthen the gums, freshen breath, relieve sore throats, ulcers, thrush, and toothache.


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Peppermint is excellent for freshening breath and maintaining gum health, while thyme will benefit sore throats and infection.

BATHS

Add up to 100ml to an adult bath and 50ml to a child’s bath.

Hydrolats can also be used in sitz baths for thrush, candida, haemorrhoids, constipation, vaginal spasm and other complaints.

Hydrosols can be added to foot baths to freshen the feet, reduce swelling and for infections.

COMPRESS

Soak a cloth in hydrolat and compress to the area being treated. For a cold compress use a cold cloth and for hot, use a hot cloth. Wrap up area with plastic film and leave for 30 minutes (body parts only).

HEALTH DRINK

To help promote a healthy, balanced body, dilute 200ml or hydrolat into one litre of water and drink throughout the day.

Baby Care

Roman chamomile is the number one choice for baby care as it is very gently. For teething pains it should be diluted 50/50 with purified water and applied to the gums and the outside of the cheeks. It can be used in the bath for irritated skin such as heat rash, nappy rash and general skin irritations. Add 50 mls to a baby bath for all the above and also to help calm a distressed baby and to help induce a peaceful sleep.

Spritz the room or over baby’s blanket.

Eye Care

Roman chamomile is one of only four hydrolats recommended as an eyewash, with German chamomile, cornflower, and green myrtle being the others. Use as a compress and wash eyes for the soothing effects of pollution, general redness and tiredness, inflammation due to conjunctivitis and also painful eye problems.

Profiles taken from Suzanne Catty – The Next Aromatherapy

LAVENDER (Lavandula augustifolia ) pH 5.6 – 5.9

Oil is distilled from the flowers


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Stability and Shelf Life – Quite stable. Usually lasts at least two years, often longer.

Aroma and Taste – A floral sweet scent. The taste is very soapy-sweet.

Properties and Applications:

o Antifungal o Antibacterial o Antiviral o Antispasmodic o Analgesic o Anti-inflammatory o Cicatrissant o Cytophylactic o Decongestant o Diuretic o Mucolytic o Calming o Sedative

Body

Because it is revitalising and relaxing it reduces headache and migraine symptoms. Lavender relieves aches and pains so effectively reduces muscular spasm, sprains, strains, and rheumatism.

Mind

It appears to cleanse and soothe the spirit relieving anger and exhaustion and instilling a sense of calm. It is balancing in action so relieves depression, cranky moods and tearful tantrums. Spray directly on the bed for a peaceful night’s sleep.

Skin Care

The pH is normally close to that of most “balanced”cosmetic products making it ideal for every skin type on a regular basis. It is cooling and healing and is famous for it regenerative effects on damaged or fragile skin. It is used to cleanse and soften facial skin and hair.

Add it to masks with oatmeal for a non-drying deep cleanse; use it daily as a makeup remover and cleanser, applied with a cotton ball. Mist the face and neck throughout the day to combat excessively dry atmospheres. Spray on the skin to cool it in summer, soothe sunburn, razor rash, bug bites, minor irritations, and to cleanse cuts and wounds.

It has regenerative properties

Suitable for all skin types

First aid – cuts and scrapes

Sprayed on bedding promotes sleep


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NEROLI/ORANGE BLOSSOM (Citrus aurantium v amara) pH 3.8 – 4.5

Oil distilled from the petals

Stability and Shelf Life – Very stable. Generally 2 years or more.

Aroma and Taste – Sublime, floral, fruity, refreshing and sexy. Wear as a perfume.

The flavour is sweet, floral and fruity which undiluted is almost too perfumed. When diluted it is unbelievable.


o Antidepressant o Antiseptic o Antifungal o Antibacterial o Antispasmodic o Aphrodisiac o Carminative o Cytophylactic o Emollient o Sedative o Tonic o Digestive

Body

Mildly sedating to the central nervous system without causing sleepiness. It stops caffeine jitters and the effects of overindulgence. Soothes palpitations of the heart and cleanses the blood, improving circulation. It treats hysteria in both children and adults and is quite effective in children with hyperactive attention deficit disorder.

It antispasmodic action calms the digestive system. Misted on the abdomen it relieves stress-related bloating, gas, cramps, and constipation.

It is good in a douche for leukorrhoea or thrush. It relieves premenstrual tension and menopausal symptoms. Neroli is supportive for the physical and emotional bodies during detoxification programs, or when quitting a habit or addiction like smoking.

Mind

Said to relieve chronic anxiety, depression and stress, and is soothing in highly emotional states. Relieves shock and instills a feeling of peace.

Skin

Has pronounced skin regenerating properties and improves skin elasticity. It is a wonderful treatment for delicate, sensitive skin and for oily skin, because it is so astringent. Avoid use on very dry skin of use only 20% in combination with


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lavender, rose, and/or geranium. A superb toner on its own and clears acne and irritations.

Use it in a facemask with clay and honey for the ultimate in luxury.

Use as a toner for oily and acneic skins for its astringent properties

Relieves stress and calms

Mildly sedative to CNS

Compress or misted on the abdomen helps relieve constipation, cramping

and bloating

ROSE GERANIUM (Pelargonium graveolens) pH 4.9 – 5.2

The oil is distilled from the flowers and leaves.

Stability and Shelf Life – moderately stable. African varieties usually last fourteen to sixteen months, and European varieties less.

Aroma and Taste – floral, sweet fragrance. Undiluted is it overpoweringly floral, but diluted, it is palatable and sweet.


o Antibacterial o Antiviral o Anti-infectious o Anti-inflammatory o Antispasmodic o Decongestant o Relaxing o Cicatrissant o Cytophylactic o Haemostatic (stops bleeding) o Adaptogen and Balancing o Eases congestion and pain o Diuretic

Body

Because it regulates the hormones it is useful with premenstrual tension and menopausal problems such as depression, hot flushes, lack of vaginal secretion and heavy periods. It is helpful in reducing inflammation and congestion of the breasts. Helps combat fluid retention and clears the body of toxins as it has a stimulating effect on the lymphatic system, and acts as a tonic to the circulation. Haemostatic, it slows or stops bleeding rapidly and can be used to clean wounds and cuts. It stops itching and promotes healing of new skin.

It eases mouth and throat infections. Can be sprayed directly onto tired legs.


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Mind

Geranium reduces anxiety and depression and lifts the spirits; puts the mind back into balance.

Skin Care

Useful for all types of skin conditions because it balances sebaceous gland activity and keeps the skin supple. Eczema, burns, shingles, herpes, ringworm, congested and oily skins, and combination skin types too will all benefit from the use of Geranium hydrolat. Geranium hydrolat is a humectant, attracting moisture to and holding it in the skin. The anti-inflammatory and cooling properties make it useful for sunburn, wind damaged skin, rashes, insect bites, broken capillaries, couperose skin, and acne rosacea.

Use it neat as a makeup remover. Spray directly over makeup throughout the day to refresh and hydrate.

Balancing and adaptogenic properties

Skin care water for very young to very old

Astringent

Use for sensitive, dry, oily, acne skin types

Anti-inflammatory and cooling for sunburn, rashes, insect bites, broken

capillaries, rosacea and couperose skin

Neat as a make up remover

Good for use on rough, dry skin on elbows, knees

TEA TREE (Melaleuca alternifolia) pH 3.9 – 4.1

Antiseptic, anti-bacterial, anti-fungal, anti-viral

Use undiluted on cuts and wounds, fungal infections, psoriasis

Moderately stable – 14 to 16 months

EUCALYPTUS (Eucalyptus globulus) pH 4.1 – 4.3

Do no use undiluted for topical or internal use for children under 4 years

old

Good for use on congested skin

Helps heal scar tissue

Heals ingrown hairs.

Makes a good gargle, mouth wash or cough syrup


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Stable for possible 18 months

ROSE (Rosa damascena) pH 4.1 – 4.4

Oil is distilled from the flowers

Shelf life and Stability - Quite stable, close to 2 years or more.

Aroma and Taste – Smells almost exactly like a fresh rose. Intensely, floral scent and taste. Undiluted it tastes overwhelming but diluted it becomes delicate and quite delicious.


o Antidepressant o Antiseptic o Antibacterial o Antispasmodic o Aphrodisiac o Sedative o Balancing o Clear toxins

Body

A hormonal balancer so is an excellent tonic for the womb, calming premenstrual tension, cramps, moodiness and menopausal problems. Helpful with sexual problems concerning both males and females. Soothes underlying tension and stress by releasing the “happy” hormone dopamine. It allows you to address most health concerns, from stress and insomnia to sunburns and wound care. Its mild antiseptic and cooling properties make it useful for many first aid applications.

To some extent relieves nausea, vomiting and constipation.

Mind

Has a soothing effect on the emotions, particularly depression, grief, jealousy and resentment. It lifts the heart and lets you love yourself.

Skin

A humectant, rose adds and retains moisture and is suitable for normal to dry, mature, sensitive, and devitalized skin. Its tonic and soothing quality is helpful for inflammation and a constricting action on the capillaries is a valuable treatment for broken thread veins. Rose is cooling and very mildly astringent; use it in.

Good for almost anything

Hormone balancer for all ages

Emotional healer


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Treats the Autonomic Nervous system (makes you feel good)

Humectant so retains moisture and suitable for normal, to dry, mature,

sensitive, devitalized skin.

Anti-wrinkle treatment

Cooling and mildly astringent and antiseptic

FRANKINCENSE (Boswellia carterii) pH 4.7 – 4.9

Body

Helpful in clearing the lungs and can dry up excess mucus and help expel phlegm. It deepens and expands breathing and opens the airways so is useful to asthma sufferers. It helps calm coughs, bronchitis and laryngitis. It may be particularly beneficial in mouth or gum infections as a gargle. Seems to have a helpful action on infections in the reproductive and urinary systems. Also soothes the stomach, easing digestion, dyspepsia and belching.

Mind

Has an elevating and soothing effect on the mind, as it is very comforting. Helpful in anxious states and obsessions linked to the past. Try it before meditation of any form of healing work.

Skin Care

Gives new life to ageing skin, reputedly smoothes out wrinkles, and balances oily conditions. Found to be effective against wounds, sores, ulcers, carbuncles and inflammation. Mist over the face and leave to air dry and your skin will have a noticeably finer texture almost immediately. Provides an instant lift when used in facemasks.

Beneficial in mouth or gum infections as a gargle

Fantastic on the skin when misted over the face and leave it to air dry

Leaves a noticeably finer texture almost immediately

Used in face maks for an instant lift.

Stability unknown – estimated 18 months

ROMAN CHAMOMILE (Chamaemelum nobile) pH 3.0 – 3.3

Number one choice for baby care, used in bath water and as a soothing

mist for bedding.

Used diluted to prevent cracked and sore nipples


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Dilute 50 – 50 for diaper rash, redness and pain

Homemade wet wipes for babies and young children

Reduces stress, depression, insomnia

Reduces inflammation and pain and swelling

Calms rashes, sensitive skin, rosacea, acne, heat rash and redness, burns,

sunburn

Best all in one make up remover, skin cleanser, and toner

Because of its fairly astringent property, do not use on singly or long term

on very dry skin

Use as an eyewash, compress for tired eyes and conjunctivitis

Very stable and easily last 2 years or more

SANDALWOOL (Santalum album) pH 5.9 – 6.0

Topically it is exceptional in skin care

Slightly drying and astringent so can be used as a compress on delicate

and mature skin

Over the eye area for crepey lids

Acne, rosacea, couperose skin, eczema and psoriasis

Mildly anti-inflammatory so is a great aftershave

Balancing and calming the skin and mind

Stable between 18 to 24 months

WITCH HAZEL HYDROLAT (Hamamelis virginiana)

Distilled from twigs, which are cut after flowering. Not used as an essential oil

Stability and Shelf Life – Moderately unstable, lasts eight to twelve months.

Aroma and Taste – Very delicate, herbaceous scent, with a slight woody edge. Taste is rather dry and non-descript, but is not recommended for internal use.


o Antioxidant o Anti-ageing o Anti-inflammatory o Analgesic o Antiseptic


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o Astringent o Cicatrissant o Diuretic o Calming o Soothing

Body

In topical applications it reduces redness, rashes, itching, swelling, and scaling of skin. Calms bites and stings and is very synergistic in combination with chamomile.

Famous for its healing effects on varicose veins and haemorrhoids; use in a compress or sitz bath two or three times daily, even during pregnancy. Diuretic even in topical applications like compresses, it reduces oedema and rheumatic and arthritic pain. Also makes an effective gargle for sore throat and hoarseness.

Skin

It is possibly the strongest antioxidant hydrolat, and considered one of the most important anti-ageing substances. It reduces redness, heals cracked or blistered skin and is extremely good for soothing eczema and psoriasis.

Add it to any skin care product, or spritz it on the face and decollote morning and evening after cleansing and before moisturising. Its astringent action makes it suitable for teenage skin, however, it is equally suitable for mature or damaged skin.

AVOID commercial witch hazel as it always contains preservatives.

RECIPES FOR SKIN TONERS

Skin toners can be sprayed onto the skin as part of the cleansing routine before applying a moisturiser, or simply to freshen the skin leaving behind a trace of the essential oil.

MATURE/DRY SKIN TONER

60ml Rose water

20ml Witch Hazel floral water

20ml Frankincense water

SENSITIVE SKIN TONER

50ml Neroli water

30ml Rose Water

17ml Geranium water


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3ml Aloe Vera Concentrate

OILY SKIN TONER

20ml Orange water

30ml Geranium

30ml Lavender

20ml Frankincense

MIST SPRAYS

CEPHALIC/ALERTNESS

80 drops Peppermint essential oil

45 drops Rosemary essential oil

35 drops Grapefruit essential oil

15 drops Sweet Basil essential oil

120ml pure water

LIFTING THE MOOD

65 drops Bergamot essential oil

45 drops Lime/Lemon essential oil

15 drops Geranium essential oil

25 drops Ylang Ylang essential oil

120ml pure water

SERENITY/CALMING

40 drops Mandarin essential oil

30 drops Marjoram essential oil

30 drops Lavender essential oil

20 drops Chamomile essential oil


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120ml pure water

ROOM DISINFECTANT

65 drops Tea Tree essential oil

50 drops Lemon essential oil

35 drops Eucalyptus essential oil

120ml pure water

MORE RECIPES

Ointment Recipes

Ointments are very easy to make and are protective and help treat various conditions. They are softening and add moisturising and nourishment to the skin. Ointments can be used for dry, cracked skin and minor injuries. The beeswax provides the protection, whilst the oil provides the nourishment and lubrication.

Method for making ointments

Melt the stage 1 ingredients together in a double boiler When melted, remove from heat Add pre-measured stage 2 ingredients Whisk the ointment until it has cooled to a consistency of soup Mix in stage 3 ingredients Pour into jars

BASE OINTMENT

Stage 1

15g Beeswax


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85ml Vegetable oil of your choice

Stage 2

Stir in essential oils and pour into jars

FOOT OINTMENT RECIPE FOR CRACKED/DRY SKIN

Makes approximately 100m/g

Stage 1

15g Beeswax 18ml Jojoba oil 60ml Olive oil

Stage 2

5ml Calendula Tincture/Calendula oil 0.5ml/g Vitamin E oil

Stage 3

25 drops Lavender essential oil 25 drops Myrrh Essential oil

Body Butter recipes

Body butters are good for dry skin types, dry skin patches on the hands, feet and

elbows and give protection and nourishment. They are not suitable for people with

oily skin or who have large pores.

Method for making Body Butter

Melt the ingredients in the Stage 1 together in a double boiler until melted


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Remove the bowl from the heat and add stage 2

Stir the mixture in a coldwater bath until it has cooled

Add stage 3 when the consistency is like a thick soup

Pour into jars and label

GENERAL BODY BUTTER

Moisturize and nourish your skin with all organic and unrefined oils and butters.

Ingredients

2 oz of Shea Butter

2 oz of Cocoa Butter

2 oz of Beeswax Pellets

2 oz of Jojoba Oil

2 oz of Coconut Oil

2 oz of Avocado Oil

2 oz of Palm Kernel Oil

2 oz of Hemp Seed Oil

Directions

Melt all the ingredients in a double boiler. Once melted, add 50-75 drops of any

essential oils that you love and immediately pour into glass jars. This recipe makes

about 16 oz.

BODY BUTTER FOR DRY/SENSITIVE SKIN

Treats dry patches on the skin and hands and feet.

Stage 1

35g Mango Butter

10g Coconut Butter


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5g Shea Butter

19ml Apricot oil

2g Beeswax

2g Base Emulsifier

Stage 2

10ml Thistle oil

12ml Rosehip oil

Stage 3

4g Vitamin E oil

20 – 25 drops Essential oils

ANTI-WRINKLE BODY BUTTER (also good for eczema)

Stage 1

54g Shea Butter

8g Cocoa Butter

Stage 2

24ml Rosehip oil

4ml Evening Primrose oil (or Borage oil)

Stage 3

4g Vitamin E oil

2g Calendula CO2 extract

2gSea Buckthron Pulp CO2 extract

1g Vitamin A Palmitate

20 – 25 drops Essential oils

CELL REJUVENATION AND SUN PROTECTION BODY BUTTER

Stage 1

73g Coconut Butter (or a mixture of coconut butter and avocado butter)

15g Shea Butter

5ml Sunflower oil

Stage2

2ml Vitamin E oil

1ml Vitamin A Palmitate


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2ml Remodelling Intense

Stage 3 – 20 – 30 drops of Essential oils

Sun Lip Balm

30g Beeswax

2g Carnauba Wax

22ml Sesame Oil


10g Tiosol



Method:

1. Measure out all the ingredients

2. Put all the ingredients in a bowl (except for the Vitamin E Oil and Essential Oils)

and melt over hot water in a bain-marie.

3. Vitamin E Oil and Essential Oils are added when the other ingredients are melted

and the bowl has been removed from the boiling water.

4. Then pour the mixture directly into containers, let the mixture settle before putting

the lids on.

Clay Face Masks

Clay masks have a range of actions depending on which type of clay is used. They absorb oil, dirt and surface impurities, leaving the skin cleansed, refined, and with an improved colour.

The clays come in dry powder form and have to be mixed with active ingredients to form a paste for easy application. These active ingredients include hydrosols/floral waters, vegetable oils, glycerine (soothing, moisturising, and acts as a humectant) and other ingredients.


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Kaolin

Deep cleanses.

Draws out impurities.

Aids desquamation.

Stimulates circulation and lymph flow.

Oily skin

Normal Skin

Congested skin.

Magnesium Carbonate

Gently stimulating.

Refining.

Softening.

Cleansing.

Calamine

Soothes.

Reduces vascularity.

Cleanses.

Green Clay (Fine or rough texture)

Used for the treatment of various skin problems.

Normal skin.

Oily skin.

Problem skin

Pink Clay

Dry skin.

Sensitive skin


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White Clay

Sensitive skin.

Yellow Clay

Normal skin.

Oily skin.

Clay masks should not be left on the skin for too long – 8 to 10 minutes, and they should be removed when the mask begins to dry. The skin is then ready for the application of a moisturiser or facial oil. Do not apply over the lips or eyelids.

This variety of facemask is based on Clay and Water to which other active ingredients may then be added. For a very simple face Mask mix equal amounts of water and clay and add a small quantity of essential oil 1 – 10 drops per 100 ml (optional). If you have sensitive skin, a small amount of vegetable oil (Apricot Kernel Oil/Peach Kernel Oil) can be added to the recipe and the facemask can be applied to dry skin, which has been covered with a thin layer of oil.

Wash the facemask off before it is fully dry. Otherwise, apply the facemask to clean skin, which has been moistened with water. It you have normal skin, allow the facemask to dry completely before washing off.

NB Moisten the lips first, otherwise these and not just the facemask will crack.

METHOD

(For a simple face-mask, mix equal amounts of water and clay together, then add required essential oil.)

Pour the water into a bowl and add the drops of natural preservative (10 drops).

Sprinkle the Clay powder over and allow it to sink into the water without stirring (part 1).

Stirring can begin when the uppermost layer of Clay powder has begun to absorb the water.

Add the other ingredients at this point (part 2)

NB If you are going to use the facemask immediately, you do not need to add a preservative.

CLEANSING CLAY MASK


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Part 1

40ml chosen hydrolat

35ml Spring Water

10 drops preservative

75gr/ml Green Clay

Part 2

8 to10 drops of Essential oils

OILY CLAY MASK

Part 1

40ml Geranium hydrolat

35ml Spring Water


75gr Green or Yellow Clay

Part 2

8 to 10 drops of Essential oils

SENSITIVE CLAY MASK

Part 1

20ml Chamomile hydrolat

45ml spring water


75gr/ml white or pink clay

Part 2

10ml Apricot/Peach Kernel Oil

8 to 10 drops of Essential oils

NOURISHING CLAY MASK

Part 1


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50ml Rose water

10drops preservative

50 g Clay

Part 2

3 ml of chosen vegetable oil such as Borage/Macadamia Nut etc

5 to 8 drops of Essential Oils

CLEANSING LAVENDER CLAY MASK

Stage 1

40ml Lavender hydrolat

35ml spring water

75g clay

10 drops of preservative (optional)

Small amount of Vitamin E may be added as an antioxidant

Stage 2

8 – 10 drops of Essential oils

ORANGE BLOSSOM CLAY MASK FOR SENSITIVE SKIN

Stage 1

30ml Orange Blossom hydrolat

45ml spring water

75g Clay

10 drops preservative (optional)

Small amount of Vitamin E may be added as an antioxidant

Stage 2

10ml Apricot Kernel oil

8 to 10 drops of essential oils

HOME INGREDIENTS


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NORMAL TO OILY SKIN

2 Tsp of live, natural yoghurt

2 drops of Lemon

1 drop of Geranium

1 drop of Ylang Ylang

DRY SKIN

2 Tsp of honey

2 drops Sandalwood

1 drop Lavender

1 drop of Chamomile or Neroli

Recipes for gels

A gel is made from water and a thickening agent. Other ingredients may be added for various purposes. Up to 5% vegetable oil may be added to lessen the dry effect of the gel on the skin. A maximum of 5% essential oils may be added to the gel. The thicker the gel is, the more vegetable or essential oil it will be able to carry.

The following recipes use Xanthan Gum (produced by Xanthomonas campestris bacteria through the fermentation of glucose – no bacteria are left in the finished product) as the thickening agent, however, other thickening agents such as Carrageen (extracted from seaweed Carrageen) Alginates (extracted from different algae), Pectin (extracted from citrus peel) and Cellulose Gum (extracted from wood fibre) may be used.

METHOD FOR MAKING GELS


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Stage 1

Measure the water in a jug and pour into a bowl. Weigh 1g or measure a level 2ml measuring spoon with Xanthan Gum

Powder Sprinkle the Xanthan Gum Powder over the water little by little, whisking

vigorously until there are no lumps.

Stage 2

Add all of the premeasured Stage 2 ingredients and mix in to the gel. All the recipes will keep for 1.5 to 2 years)

NOTE

In order to make the gel a thicker consistency, sprinkle more Xanthan gum little by little into the finished product as required.

Over beating of the Xanthan gum and water will turn the gel white. Beat hard and fast to remove lumps, then stop beating as continuing to beat the mixture will turn the gel runny. To this mixture different active ingredients can be added depending on skin type and purpose for which gel is being used.

Gels can have a drying effect on the skin if used often. In order to counter this effect add 1 -3% of a chosen vegetable oil, which can be stirred briefly into the already made mixture (over stirring will turn the gel whitish).

If making a gel facemask, a thin layer of vegetable oil can be put on the face under the gel mask to prevent the dry feeling to the skin. Various active ingredients may be added depending on the skin type and purpose for which the gel facemask is being used.

When using antiseptic essential oils in the gel mixture, less preservative can be added.

BASE ALOE VERA GEL RECIPE (makes 100ml)

The basic gel is very versatile and can be used to help heal wounds, burns, cuts,

grazes, sunburn, smelly feet, muscular aches and pains etc.

It can also be added to creams and lotions to make the cream more fluffy and increase

skin healing properties

Stage 1

89ml spring water

2ml/1g/ half a teaspoon of Xantham gum

Stage 2


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Stage 3

10 drops of Essential oils

CALENDULA GEL MASK

Stage 1

74ml spring water

2ml/ 1g/ half a teaspoon of Xantham gum

Stage 2

10ml Chamomile hydrolat


2ml Calendula oil

2ml NFF moisturiser


Stage 3 - 10 drops of Essential oils

LAVENDER GEL MASK

Stage 1

74ml spring water

1g/2ml/1/2tsp Xanthan Gum

Stage 2

10ml Lavender water


2ml St John’s Wort Oil

12 drops (0.6ml) preservative

2ml NFF moisturiser


2 drops Chamomile Roman/German essential oil

CELLULITE GEL


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Stage 1

94ml spring water

1g/2ml/1/2 tsp Xanthan Gum

Stage 2

10 drops (0.5 ml preservative

10 drops Rosemary essential oil

8 drops Cypress essential oil

6 drops Sweet Fennel essential oil

6 drops Juniper oil

SCRUBBING GEL

Stage 1

94ml spring water


Stage 2


3g Apricot Kernel Powder

8 drops Cypress essential oil

8 drops Grapefruit essential oil

10 drops Lavender Essential oil

2 drops Peppermint Essential oil

SUNBURN GEL

Stage 1

80ml spring water


Stage 2



2ml NFF moisturiser


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5ml St John’s Wort oil

20 drops Lavender essential oil & 10 drops Spearmint/Pepermint essential oil

FACE AND BODY EXFOLIATING CREAM FOR DRY/ MATURE/ SENSITIVE

SKIN

METHOD

Fat Stage

1. Heat the fat stage ingredients until melted in a double boiler, and the temperature has risen to 75-80 degrees C.

Water Stage

2. Measure required amount of boiling spring Water and pour over the MF Emulsifier, Glycerine and Preservative, which has been put in a separate double boiler.

3. Whisk the water stage ingredients well together, making sure that the MF Emulsifier powder is dissolved and there are no lumps. Heat mixture to 75-80 degrees C.

4. When both fat and water stage are over 75 degrees C, remove both double boilers from hob, keeping the water stage mixture hot by leaving it on the top half of the double boiler.


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5. Pour melted fat stage into the water stage in a thin, steady stream, and keep whisking the mixture from side to side for 5 minutes.

6. Allow the mixture to cool, stirring all the time.

Third Stage

Stir in the third stage ingredients when the mixture has cooled to below 40 degrees C.

Fourth Stage

Continue to stir until the mixture has cooled to below 30 degrees C. Add essential oil blend.

Fifth Stage for the exfoliating cream

Stir in the exfoliating grains (don’t whisk) – Pour into jars and label

RECIPE

Fat Stage (75 - 80 degrees C

8ml Castor oil

4ml Macadamia Kernel oil

4ml Apricot oil

2gr Shea Butter

2gr Cetyl Alcohol

3gr VE Emulsifier

Water Stage (75 – 80 degrees C)

5gr MF Emulsifier

67ml Rose Hydrolat or boiling water

3ml Glycerine

12 drops preservative (0.6 ml)

Third Stage (40 – 35 degrees C)

2 ml Vitamin E oil

Fourth Stage (30 – 25 degrees C)

10 drops Geranium essential oil

5 drops Petitgrain essential oil


(OR CHOSEN BLEND OF ESSENTIAL OILS)


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Fifth Stage

2 – 5gr Exfoliating grains

Skin Cleansers

The purpose of a skin cleanser is to cleanse the skin and remove impurities from the

surface of the skin and aid with desquamation of the squamous layer. It helps to

unclog the pores, prevent skin conditions and prepare the skin for further application

of skin products. Castor oil is an excellent cleansing base as it helps draw out

impurities and is not readily absorbed.

FACIAL CLEANSINIG CREAM (ALL SKIN TYPES)

Fat Stage (75 – 80 degrees C)

12ml Castor oil


2g Shea Butter

1g Cocoa Butter

3g VE Emulsifier


5g MF Emulsifier

54ml boiling water

3ml Glycerine

12 drops (0.6ml) Preservative


1ml Vitamin E oil

Fourth Stage (25 degrees C)

10 – 15 drops Essential oil

Method


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When oil and fat stage are over 75 0 80 Degrees C, pour fat stage into water

stage in a steady stream whilst whisking side to side continuously for about 5

minutes.

Stir in third stage when cooled under 40 degrees C

Sitr in fourth stage when under 30 degrees C.

CLEANSING BALM

Stage One

30 ml Palm Kernel oil (Sweet Almond)

30ml Castor oil

4g Beeswax

Stage Two (40 – 35 degrees C)

2ml Vitamin E oil

Stage Three (25 degrees C)

5 drops Chamomile

4 drops Eucalyptus

5 drops Tea Tree

(or own choice of oils)

Method

Melt stage one ingredients together

Add Vitamin E oil when mixture has cooled (40 – 35 degrees C)

Add stage three when temperature is below 25 degrees C

AVOCADO AND ALOE VERA CLEANSING OIL (All skin types, but particularly

dry, irritated skin)


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Stage One

55ml Jojoba oil

20ml Avocado oil

20 ml Sweet Almond oil

Stage Two

50g Aloe Vera gel

2 teaspoons Vegetable Glycerine

Stage Three

3ml Vitamin E oil

Stage Four

10 – 15 drops of Essential oils

Method

Heat oils in stage one in a saucepan over a low heat.

Heat aloe vera gel and glycerine in another saucepan, stirring constantly

Remove from heat and stir the two mixtures together until cool.

Add Vitamin E oil and Essential oils.

If mixture separates, shake bottle before use.

CCOCONUT AND OLIVE CLEANSER (Dry/ combination/ normal skin)

Refrigerate in cool weather, as otherwise the cream will be very runny.

Stage One

45ml Coconut oil

10g Cocoa butter


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Stage Two

15ml Olive oil

25ml Macadamia oil (or Sweet Almond oil)

Stage Three

20 drops of Essential oil blend

Method

Melt stage one gently in a saucepan and stir to mix

Allow to cool a little, and add Olive oil and Macadamia oil

Cool to below 30 degrees C before adding essential oils

GALENS COLD CREAM

Stage One

40ml Sweet Almond oil

10g Beeswax

Stage Two

40ml Rosewater

Stage Three

10 drops of Rose Absolute

Method

Heat Stage one and two in separate saucepans

Pour water into oil and stir until cooled

Add Essential oil

Facial Toners / Spritzers


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Skin toners restore the acid mantle of the skin leaving it fresh and clean. They are

applied after the skin has been cleansed and have the effect of cleaning and reducing

the size of pores. Toners can be used to disinfect and freshen up the skin and may

also be suitable for pre and after-shave sprays.

The water part of skin toners can consist of spring water, hydrosols; or herbal

infusions, decoctions or tinctures and further personalised by adding different water-

soluble ingredients.

They can be applied with cotton wool or sprayed directly onto the skin and then

wiped off with cotton wool.

The best general tonic hydrosols for the skin are rose geranium, rock rose, neroli,

yarrow, sandalwood and the chamomiles – but nearly every hydrosol has an

application in skin care and the various skin conditions.

REJUVENATING SKIN TONER

76ml Rose hydrosol

10ml Orange Blossom hydrosol

5ml Frankincense hydrosol

5 ml Peppermint hydrosol

2ml NFF Moisturiser

OILY/ ACNE SKIN TONER

80ml Geranium hydrosol


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5ml Chamomile hydrosol


2ml AHA Natural Fruit Acids

ALL SKIN TYPES SKIN TONER

100ml Rosewater hydrosol

30ml Witch hazel

3ml Glycerine

Moisturisers and Creams

A cream is an emulsion of oil and water. In order for the two to mix together an

emulsifier is required. In the following recipes ingredients can be replaced with

something else if there is an ingredient you are allergic too.

SIMPLE MOISTURISER


6ml Almond oil

3ml Thistle oil

2g Cetyl Alcohol

2.5g VE Emulsifier


4g MF Emulsifier

76ml Boiling spring water

2ml Glycerine

12 drops (0.6 ml/g) Preservative

Third Stage

2ml NFF Moisturiser

1ml Vitamin E oil

Fourth Stage

20 drops Essential oil

VITAMIN CREAM (Dry /Mature / Sensitive Skin)


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8ml Peach Kernel oil

2ml Macadamia Nut oil

2g Cetyl Alcohol

2.5 VE Emulsifier

Pour fat into water in a pour fat stage into water stage

Water Stage (75 – 80 degrees C) thin steady stream

4g MF Emulsifier

55ml Boiling spring water

2ml Glycerine

12 drops Preservative


2ml NFF Moisturiser

5ml Evening Primrose oil

2ml Vitamin E oil

1ml Vitamin A Palmitate

1ml Sea Buckthorn CO2 Extract

Fourth Stage (40 – 35 degrees C)

13ml Aloe Vera Gel (approx)

Fifth Stage – 12 – 15 drops Essential oils

Tips for Making Creams

To make different creams (e.g. anti wrinkle) one or two extra ingredients may be

added in the third stage:

Hyalauronic Acid (1%)

Remodelling Intense (2%)

Q10 (0.5 – 2%)

Pseudo Collagen (2%)


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To ensure a smooth cream, use an electric blender to blend the ingredients for 1

minute after adding the fat stage to the water stage, then continue whisking, as

directed in the method for 4 more minutes.

When whisking or stirring, it is important to touch the bottom of the bowl so as not to

introduce air into the mixture.

You can make a lotion using cream recipes by whisking in a quantity of water equal

to the cream. (i.e. 100ml ready made cream, slowly whisk in little by little up to

100ml cold spring water until you get the required consistency).

NB for each extra 10ml of water, 1 extra drop of preservative will need to be added.

Combine Essential Oils according to the condition and skin type

Shelf life of the creams is eighteen months to two years.

Facial Serums

Facial serums can be made to help reduce the signs of ageing and feed the skin and

reduce the signs of damage. They contain high doses of antioxidants (Vitamin E and

A as well as CO2 extract), and are easily absorbed by the skin because they should

also contain thin, dry oils rich in omega 3 & 6 essential fatty acids. Camelina, Kiwi

seed, Hemp, Evening primrose, Borage, Rosehip, Thistle, Sunflower (omega 6), and

Chia seed oils are good facial serum oils to choose from.

Percentages of Antioxidants Added to Serums

Vitamin E added 10ml to 25ml (less for oily skin)

Vitamin A added 1ml/g

Sea Buckthorn added 1ml

Bisabol (glossy appearance to skin) added 1ml

Remodelling Intense (moisturising) added 2ml

Rosemary Antioxidant (CO2 extract) is added to large quantities of Vitamin E recipes

4 – 8 drops

Appropriate essential oils can then be added.

A serum is best applied in the evenings on a clean face and used once to twice a week.


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APRICOT FACE SERUM FOR SENSITIVE SKIN


20ml Rosehip Oil

20 ml Evening Primrose Oil

20ml Vitamin E Oil

1ml/g Vitamin A Palmitate

2ml/g Remodelling Intense



EVENING PRIMROSE SERUM FOR OILY SKIN


20ml Rosehip Oil

10ml Safflower Oil

10ml/g Vitamin E Oil



Eye Care Recipes

EYE MAKE UP REMOVER COCONUT EYE CLEANSER

30ml Castor oil 30ml Coconut oil

30ml light Olive oil 30ml Macadamia nut oil

Apply the mixture with a tissue or cotton-wool ball to remove make up from around

the eyes. Gently wipe the eye area.

ALOE VERA EYE GEL (All skin types)

1 teaspoon Rosehip oil


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1 teaspoon Evening Primrose / Borage oil

30ml Aloe Vera Gel

¼ teaspoon Vitamin E oil

5 drops Lavender Essential oil (optional)

Method

Slowly add the Rosehip and Evening Primrose oils to the Aloe Vera gel,

stirring constantly.

Add the Vitamin E oil and Lavender Essential oil and stir.

Add more Aloe Vera Gel if a thicker consistency is required.

Pat gently around the eye area morning and night

ANTI-AGING EYE OIL (Sensitive and oily skin)

90 ml Rosehip

15 ml Vitamin E oil

ANTI-AGING EYE OIL (Mature and dry skin)

75ml Rosehip oil

10ml Macadamia Nut oil

15ml Vitamin E oil

EYE OIL FOR INFECTIONS

65ml Rosehip oil

20ml Borage oil

13ml Vitamin E oil

2 ml Vitamin A Palmitate

NOTE :

Add 5 – 8 drops of rosemary CO2 extract to protect the large amount of Vitamin E in

the blends. This will keep the products for up to 2 years instead of 7 to 8 months

SOLID PERFUME

30ml Jojoba oil

30ml Sweet Almond oil

38g Beeswax


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10drops Bergamot essential oil

5 drops Patchouli essential oil

5 drops Ylang Ylang essential oil

Method

Combine ingredients in a double boiler and blend over a low heat. Pour into stainless

steel tins or any 5ml jars for a portable perfume.

NOTE

Mixture solidifies very fast, so pour into container while still liquid, and make sure

essential oils are ready for mixing in at this stage.

Massage Bars

Massage Bars melt easily in your hands and are perfect for all skin types except for oily skin or large pores on the face.

Method for making massage bars Place all ingredients of stage 1 in a saucepan and melt slowly and watch

that it does not burn Cool down until mixture thjckens around the edges, stirring occasionally

as it cools. Do not allow to thicken too much as you should be able to pour the mixture

Add pre=measured stage 2 ingredients and stir well. Do not allow to thicken too much so that can pour into silicone moulds.

Put the tray in the fridge to harden or leave out overnight to harden

TIP

ADDING 8 – 15 % beeswax to your massage bar will allow it to melt slower and last longer. Beeswax holds the bar together.

Don’t use moulds with too wide a diameter as they crack more easily

If the mixture has cooled down too much before pouring, reheat the mixture, cool down again and pour when consistency similar to a soup

GLA MASSAGE BAR

Stage 1

80g Cocoa butter 10g Beeswax 3 g Shea butter

Stage 2


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5ml Borage/Evening Primrose oil 2ml Vitamin E oil 50 drops Essential oils

References :

Liquid Sunshine Vegetable Oils for Aromatherapy – Jan Kusmirek

The Aromantic Guide & Natural Spa Products – Kolbjorn Borseth

Bodyworks – Murdoch Books

Hydrosols – Suzanne Catty

Patricia Davies A-Z


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DIPLOMA OF CLINICAL AROMATHERAPY PRODUCT MAKING

CLASS CASE STUDY SCENARIOS

TREATMENT PLAN 1

Design a facial mask and facial toner

28 year-old housewife

Skin is oil and sensitive

Always tired and drained from caring for 2 little children

TREATMENT PLAN 2

Design a body oil and facial oil

38 year- old working housewife

Skin is dull and dehydrated

Wants to have a baby, cannot conceive and is stressed, anxious and depressed

TREATMENT PLAN 3

Design a facial cream and facial mask

Elderly women (about 70years old)

Has very dry and frail skin

Feels lonely and sad

TREATMENT PLAN 4

Design a facial oil and spritz

Middle aged women (around 50 years old)

Has mature skin with wrinkles

Feels depressed about menopause and aging

develop aromatherapy and spa productsof+aromatherapy/...the fine green clay is used in facial masks...

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