details men's style manual the ultimate guide for making your clothes work for you-mantesh

7/23/2019 Details Men's Style Manual The Ultimate Guide for Making Your Clothes Work for You-Mantesh

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THE ULTIMATE GUIDEFOR MAKING YOUR CLOTHESWORK FOR YOU

DANIE L PERESAND THE EDITORSOF DETAILS


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Introduction by Daniel PeresRules of StyleClassics You Should Already Own

Chapter 1: ShirtsThree Degrees of the We ll-Dressed ManChapter 2: PantsRules of Style: Giorgio ArmaniChapter 3: BlazersMap of the Wel l-D ressed ManChapter 4: TiesRules of Style: Michael KorsChapter 5: SuitsKnow the CodeChapter 6: FormalwearRules of Style: Sean CombsChapter 7: JeansRules of Style: Tommy Hilfiger

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CONTENTS

Chapter 8: Casual Shirts 148Rules of Sty le: Donna Karan 162Chapter 9: Sweaters 16The Movies That Shaped Men's Style 180Rules of Sty le: Christopher Bailey 182Chapter 10.: Outerwear 184Ru les of Style: Zac Posen 202Chapter 11: Underwear 204Rules of Sty le: Kenneth Cole 212Chapter 12: Shoes 214Rules of Style: Donatel la Versace 230Chapter 13: Accessories 232

How to Pack 251How to Ca re for Your Wardrobe 255Where to Shop 261Acknowledgments 268Credits 269


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Introduction

ears a o, a sto on tA ewront _a e o t e New Yor eTimesPeres is a s o ..........."

This was in the first sentence of an article about how it wasfashionable for men to wear their shirts untucked, and I

.was its inspiration. Egos being what they are, the devil inme was thrilled. In a world of skinny suits and pointy shoes, I was rathercontent dressing down. I had adopted a uniform of jeans,sweaters, and tattered Chucks and the occasional button-down shirt, untucked, of course. I even wore a fleece to aVersace fashion show once. In fact, at the men's fashionshows in Milan and Paris, I often looked more like the editorof MonsterTruck Monthly than Details.While I was convinced I looked, well, devilishly handsome,I have since realized that I was, as the Times stated, a slob.

6 : INTRODUCTION- - -


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I

I decided to do something about it. It was time for me tostart behaving like a gentleman, and in order to do so, I hto begin dressing like one.So when it came time to travel to Europe for the nextbatch of runway shows, I chose to wear a suit and tie everday. Let's just say it wasn't a subtle transformation. "Jobinterview?" cracked one smart-ass rival editor. "You look s

mature," said another, more insulting than complimentaryas if to say, "Hey, why aren't you dressed like a college fresman anymore?" And at least a half-dozen people asked ifI was going to a funeral.I guess, in a way, that's how I used to approach theseseasonal fashion exhibitions with the level of enthusiasm generally reserved for a wake. I had to be there, but I

.wanted out in the worst way. Well, th.ere's something tobe said for osmosis. Years of sitting front row at the collections had changed my interest from faux to genuine.

INTRODUCTION :


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These designers had finally gotten through to me. I realizedthe importance of being well dressed. (Don't get me wrong,.jeans and sneakers can be very stylish just not every day.)This book is here to help you with your own transforma-tion. Whether you've got your act together and simply needsome occasional advice, or, like me, you want to give yourself a makeover, this is your guide.My own sartorial shortcomings notwithstanding, Detailshas always taken fashion seriously. Our editors have consistently presented the right mix of classic and cutting-edge.This book channels much of their collective fashion wisdominto a piece-by-piece evaluation of the male wardrobe.The Details Men's Style Manual is your very own fashioneditor the expert you can turn to with any question youmay have or any advice you may need.Style is something extremely personal. No one, especiallythe editors of Details, should tell you how to dress. If you

8 INTRODUCTION


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feel confident with your shirt untucked, then by all meansdon't tuck. I've always maintained that most men alreadyhave their own sense of style. But every now and theneveryone needs to make some adjustments.That's exactly what I've done. It's not like I sold my soul tothe fashion elite. I've simply changed my tune. And that'sthe great thing about fashion there's so much out there to .choose from, as long as you're paying attention.And if, like most men, you're too busy to pay attention onyour own, take comfort in the fact that we've done it foryou. Everything you need to know is right here. You no lon-ger have an excuse for looking like a slob.

Daniel Peres

INTRODUCTION : 9


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WITH YOUR BODY TYPEBE LIBERATING. ONCE YOU START

SUITS AND TROUSERS CUTTOO-

If you feel most comfortable in acharcoal suit with a pale tie and apocket square ,wear a variation onthat outfit five days a week. Powerfulmen have signature looks .

: RULES OF STYLE


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Don't try to dresslike a movie star un-less you are one. Justbecause Brad Pitt orJohnny Depp can pullit off doesn 't meanyou can.Go aheadand experiment withtrends now and then,but don' t wear a pork-pie hat because yousaw a celebrity do it.

ARE CLASSIC FOR A REASON.MEN'S STYLE HAS CHANGED LITTLEOVER THE PAST ONE HUNDRED YEARS.YOU SHOULDN'T BE THE PERSONWHO TRIES TO BREAK THE MOLD.WHEN IN DOUBT, ASK YOURSELF,"WHAT WOULD CARY GRANT DO?"

Be inquisitive.If a friend 1s looking particularly sharp go ahead andfind out where he buys his threads. Chances are hisanswer will broaden your horizons.

Don.'t try too hard.Strive for being sty lish rather thanfashionable and remember that themost important person to dress for.1s you.

RULES OF STYLE :


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CLASSICS YOU SHOULDALREADY OWN

2

DAN OVERCOAT THATCOMPLEMENTS CUSTOM

SUITS AND MAKES JEANSLOOK ELEGANT

A SINGLE-BREASTED NAVYBLUE SUIT AND A GRAYSUIT, BOTH IN A MEDIUMWEIGHT THAT YOU CAN WEARYEAR-ROUND

A NAVYBLAZER

TWO PAIRS OFGOOD SHOES-

ONE BLACK ,THE OTHER

DARK BROWN


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X2

DTWO WHITESHIRTS

DONE BLUESHIRT

A SIMPLEBLACK BELT

SEVERAL PAIRSOF BLACK COTTONSOCKS

DTWO POLOSHIRTS

DA SLIMDARK

COLOREDTIE

A PAIR OF BASICSTRAIGHT-LEG

BLUE JEANS

CLASSICS YOU SHOU LD ALREADY OWN :


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SHIRT BASICS0 THE PLAIN CUFFShirts that don' t require cufflinks should have onebutton at the cuff and a small "chisel" where the heelofyour hand cocks back. If you want a slight ly moreformal sty le -but still no links-wear a shirt with barrelcuffs, which have two buttons and no chisel.

0 THE FRENCH CUFFSome unenlighten ed dressers think Frenc h cuffs are

stuffy.They're not. You can wear a shirt with cuffs thatfasten with links, not buttons, every day-even withjeans and a blazer. Just be sure to calibrate the formality of the hardware-silk knots are better for daytimethan 14-karat gold- and never leave th e cuffs unfoldedand trailing out your sleeve, or you'lllook like thefourth tenor.

0 THE COLLARA collar sha pe-whether it 's spread, long point, oranother style (see page 24)-that flatters your face, yourbuild, and your personal aesthetic is crucial. It can bethe best argument for having your shirts custom-made .

16 SHIRTS

0 THE BUTTONSThe quality of the buttons will clue you in to the quality of the shirt .Awell-made one should have th ick,triple-stacked , mother-of-pearl buttons-not flimsyplastic disks that crack in half on th e first trip to the dcleaner. It should also have a gauntlet button- that'sth e one between th e wrist and th e elbow that allowsyo u to roll your sleeves up neatly.

0 THE FABRICLike sheet s, shirts com e in th read counts from low toluxuriously high. Some companies make shirts withth read counts as high as 180. But the truth is, you 'rebetter offwith good, serviceable cotton. Extremelyhigh grades may b.e silkier, but they wear out faster ancost more.There are many weaves for shirts from th ecasual oxford and chambray to the smooth pima andSea Island.

CUFF LINKS ? GO TO PAGE 2


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STRIPED OXFORD

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The striped oxford is an allAmerican classic. You can pair itwith jeans or khakis-tie optionaland feel free to roll up the sleeves.

20 SHIRTS

BLUEEverything goeswith a blue shirt.Whenwhite seems too stark, subin one in any shade-from powderyto bright.

CONTRAST COLLARThe contrast collar isn't just forbankers.Wornwith a dark suit, thedistinguished shirt works for anydressed-up event.

CHECKSThere's no betterway to breathelife into a gray suit thanwith agingham shirt-even a black-andwhite one does the job.

MILITARYShirts with military detailing hava structuredelegance that makethem slightly more dressy than thaverage button-down. Wear oneout to dinner,without a tie .


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VARIEGATED STRIPESThis suave, Italian-style pattern isbetter suited for evenings out thanboardroommeetings. Just keepthenumber of undone buttons to. .armrumum.

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PENCIL STR IPESThe pencil-stripe shirt adds dimension to a suit-and-tie without overwhelming it . Just make sure thestripes are slender and th e colorsare coordinated.

GRAYThe gray shirt is an underratedalternative to blue an d white. Infact, a dove-colored one is an evenbetter complement to navy suits.

BAND COLLARThe band-collar shirt had a badmoment during the days of MiamiVice. It's no w made a comeback as aworthy alternative to th e oxford.

PLAIDThe associations with grungegolf have been vanquished. Tnew breed of plaid shirt lookwith suits and ties or just tucjnto trousers.

FLORAL PRINTIt takes moxie to pull off a floprint shirt. The very confidenwear oversize, brightly colorestyles; the rest of us should gsomething n1ore understated

SHIRTS


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- -w --lTHE PERFECT FIT

No matter what you paid for it- or how trim yourtorso-if your shirt doesn't fit properly, you're goingto look like a schlump. Most men wear theirs a fullhalf size too big.And a blousy, billowy shirt is just asunflattering as a skin-tight one . And while you mayhave your measurements memorized, the numbersdon't always add up- no two n1anufacturers' shirts fitexactly alike. Try a shirt on before you buy it, take anhonest look at yourself in the mirror, and follow theseguidelines for honing in on th e perfect fit :THE TORSOThere's a lo t ofmiddle ground between to o looseand too tight. Find it .The shirt should be snug in th echest, but not so snug that the fabric pulls betweenthe buttons....... ........ ...... ...... ... .... ........... ... ...... .. .... .......THE BACKBeefier guys should get a shirt with box pleats in th eback-two folds between th e shoulder blades- for a li ttle more room, without extra volume .Those with slimmer builds should opt for fitted styles that contourdown toward the waist. Either way, th e seam s of theshirt should lie on the curve ofyour deltoids (thoseare the muscles right behind your shoulders..-th e onesyou'd work ifyou did push-ups).

TH E WAISTSit down while you're wearing th e shirt. It should skimyour waistbu t leave just enough room to give whenyou're seated (an d full)... .. .. .. . ... . . . ... ... . ... .. .. ........ . . . ...... .... . . . ... . . . . . . . . . .TH E NECKThe golden rule here hasn't changed:You should beable to comfortably fit two fingers in between yourneck and th e collar of th e shirt when it 's buttoned.

THE SLEEVESThe cuffs of the shirt should fall in the crook betweenthe base of your thumb an d your wrist .

THE TAILSThe tails should be long enough to lie under your rearend when you're seated. That will prevent th e shirtfrom riding up or coming untucked . It will also giveyou better posture.

In 1905, to help with flagging sales, theArrow Collar Man debuted in Arrow CollarCompany's advertising campaigns. Sales ofshirts soared, and by 1920 the imaginaryArrow Collar Man was receiving more fanmail than Rudolph Valentino. SH IRTS 23


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I THE PERFECT FIT

Collars

24 SHIRTS

c ~ a . Ty .... lllT'T.....------


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Fit Tips

IMEASURE UP: THE THREE T ROUBLE SPOTS WITH SHIRTSARE AT THE NECK , THE SLEEV E, AND IN THE WAIST . NEC KSAND ARMS ARE A S IMPLE MATTER OF GETTING THE RI GH TMEASUREMENTS.

TIP CDA collar should balance the shapeof your face. Wide collars likespreads complement longJ narrowfaces (John Kerry), and pointedcollars look best with round ones(Jack Black). A too-tight collar, ofcourse, flatters no one.

TIP0

Athletic guys should look forfitted shirts that contour down;bigger builds will want to look fora box pleat.

SHIRTS: 2


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DRESS UP, DRESS DOWN..How to wear one white shirt for

four different occasions.0 THE PRESENTATIONLet your clothes make a power point withoutdistracting them from your Power Point. Thewhite shirt creates great contrast with a sharpblack suit.

DINNER DATE AT THE DINERDark jeans and the same white shirt with a grepair of brown shoes are dressy enough withoubeing too uptight to have fun.


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WINTER WINDOW SHOPPINGA flash of white under layers ofgray woolwakesthe whole ensemble up.

SUNDAY DRIVEStop in to see the in-laws then swing by theto catchth e game. The white shirt tones thegray down without maldng it too washed ou


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HOW TO PULL OFFThe Print ShirtIt's possible to wear a printed shirt without looking like FredSchneider of the B-52s or worse, being mistaken for one ofthe martini-swilling prowlers at VIP clubs. In truth, a patternedshirt multicolored stripes and subtle abstract or floral printsshouldn't be reserved for Friday nights. You can wear a slimfitting one with tailored trousers to cocktail hour or with jeansto Sunday brunch. Paired with a solid-colored suit and tie, abrightly printed shirt can even go to the office. Just let the playfulness of the material speak for itself and keep the shirt neatlytucked into your pants, your hair gel-free, and no more than twobuttons at the neck undone.

BEGINNERIf you'd rather th e shirt not turnheads, look for a sm all, repeatedpattern in just two colors, likechecks or slim stripes.

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.....

: INTERMEDIATE................

So long as it 's balanced ou t withsolid-colored trousers, a vividprinted shirt will look sophisticated, not garish .Try one in abright color-block or multicoloredabstract print.

.....

: ADVANCED........

Yes, you can wear a shirt in abright, oversize floral or abstractprint to th e office. In fact, anycomplicated, eye-catching patterncan be matched with a solid suitand tie-you just have to wear itwith pride.


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DON'TS

DON'T UNBUTTONYOUR SHIRT TOO FARTwo words for you: Tom Jones. Wear your shirts unbuttoned to the navel and they'll be thinking "What's NewPussycat?" Who needs that?

30 . SHIRTS

DON ' T WEAR DENIM SHIRTSIfyou own cattle, ignore this warning. Everyone else should stayaway from denim shirts, especiallywith jeans. You think you look likethe Marlboro Man, but he honest,you don't.DON ' T OVERPOWERYOURSELFCalling too much attention toone part of your shirt- let aloneto yourself-is always a risk.Remember that you're wearing ashirt, not a neon sign.


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OW TO BUY

KNOW YOURMEASUREMENTSAsalesman at anygood store-whetheryou're having your shirtcustom-made or no t should be adept at taking them. And have themretaken at least once ayear - things change.

SHIRTS.

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PANTS BASICS0 THE WAISTAquestion:Where's your waist? Ifyou're stumped,chances are you don't really know your waist sizeeither. That means your pants don't fit .To remedythis, place a tape measure aroundyour midsection justabove your hipbone . Commit the number to memory.

0 THE RISEThe rise is the length of the fly, or the section fron1the crotch to your waistband. A long rise gives youa high waist. A short rise puts you in hip-huggers.Areally short rise makes you a member of Fall Out Boy.

0 THE INSEAMRunning vertically from the crotch to th e cuff, theinseam gives you the length of your leg. It's the second number in your jeans formula (as in 34 waist, 32inseam). Unless you have long arms and phenomenalflexibility, you might need someone else to measurethis for you.

0 THE BELT LOOPSNot all pants have belt loops, but if they do make use ofthem. They're not there for decoration.

36 PAN TS

0 THE POCKETSCell phone, keys, iPod...The modern man has plenty tolug around with him. That is no excuse for overloadingyour pockets an d ruining the contour of your pants .There are a wide variety of side pockets: on the seam,diagonal jets, slanted, depending on the formality ofthe pant. At the backyou can choose buttoned or openpockets, one (on the right side) or tvvo.Whatever youdecide, lose the bulging wallet.

0 THE CUFFSAfter having a moment in the eighties, cuffs are morethe exception than the rule, except for those jean connoisseurs who like to show off their shuttle-loom-spunJapanese denim. With trousers, if you do choose cuffs,be sure the tailor makes them in proportion to yourbody size. Too big an d you'lllook like an extra fromThe Untouchables.

0 THE FABRICMore than any other item of clothing, your trouserstake a pounding. From your morning commute tohours sitting on a bar stool listening to Brian fromsales, your pants' arduous routine requires that they bedurable. They also have to be appropriate for th e season. Ifyou're playing golf at lunchtin1e in August youmight want to leave your tweed pair at home .


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40 PANTS

KHAKI

Its origins in the British militarymake khaki's strengths clear: thefabric is tough, and it is suitable forboth office and urban combat. Optfor modern cuts for pants- s lim,flat-fronted-that many retailershave made available over the pastfew years.

BLACK

This is your alternative to navyblue. Just don't wear pants in thesomber color with a white shirtyou'll end up being asked what thentree special is.


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NAVY CHINOThese pants can do double-dutyas dressy weekend attire or casualworkwear. Pair themwith a slimfittingwhite oxford shirt.

PLEATEDPantswith pleats hang better. Theygive th e crease more room to falland make your legs look longer.But no pair of pants needs morethan tw o pleats.

PINSTRIPEMatch a pair of pinstripe trousers-the lines should be pencilthin- with a pressed collared shan d you have a fail-safe dinnerparty uniform.

PANTS :


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2

OPTIONS

PANTS

LINENIf you ever need to sleep in yourpants, make sure they're linen.The fabric, which is made fromflax, looks great rumpled: It alsoabsorbs moisture, andwill keepyou cool on the hottest of days .

CUFFEDCuffs are a style choice that evokeprep school. If you're on the tallerside you might consider them,as uncuffed pants accentuate thelength of your legs.


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TWEEDThe Scottish texti le has lost it sfuddy-duddy image and is now afixture in many designer collections. Andwhether ifs in th e formof checks , herringbone, or twill,tweed is a great choice for pants, asifs MikeTyson tough.

CARGOBothhigh-end designers andn1ainstream fashion retailers madea mint offcargo pants during th edress-down nineties. And as longas you don 't stuff th e pockets, themilitary-inspiredpants are stilla great alternative to jeans andkhakis- onweekends only.

WOOL FLANNELAnother durable choice, flannwarmth and softness are surequalities thatmade it such a bhitwith L.A. gang bangers a deago. Pants cu t from th e cloth aa good choice even i fyour namdoesn't have th e wordDogg in

PANTS :


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-- w--THE PERFECT FITOVERALLYour pants should be snug around your waist , but nottoo tight, the hem should touchyour shoe, but notcover it , and th e shape of th e pant should be appropriate for your frame. t ~ ~

THE NATURAL WAISTIt's just b elow your belly button. If your pants sit anyhigher, you 'll officially be wearing "Dad pants."t I t t t I t t t t t t t t t t t t t t t t t t t t t t t t t t t t t t t t t -. t t t t t t t t t Ill t t t t t t t t t t t t t t t t t

THE JEANS WAISTJeans are mean t to be worn a bit lower an d closer to th ehips than other pants. Think old Levi's and Toughskins.But no matter ho w much juice you think you have onthe streets, leave the low-rider pants to th e B-boys........... ........ ..... ... .... ........ .... ...... ...... ..... ... .....THE HEMOne of the keys to good style is knowing what su itsyou. And part of th is is coming to terms with what th egoodLord has (or hasn't) endowed you with. I fyou 'retall, then you should consider cuffing your pants . Ifyou're short, lose th e cuffs (an d t he Cuban he els , forthat matter).

TH E BREAKThe break is where your pants touch your sho es .The lower the break, th e deeper the horizontal creasethat sit s on your shoe.The three different types are:medium (your pants will fall midwaybetween th etop ofyour shoe and the top of th e sole), full (whichdrapes fabric ove r th e shoe top and sweeps it back toa quarter inch above th e floor in th e back), an d short(pants are worn high on the leg with a qu ar ter inch ofswing between th e bottoms and the top of the shoe.)Currently, the fashion cognoscentiand designers sucas Thorn Browne favor the short break. When in doubgo for a medium breakit's th e classic choice.

~ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ~ . . . . . . . .. .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . .PLEATS VS . NO PLEATSLet's make this real simple: Unless you 're built likeJohn Goodman or you see yourself as a middle-management "road warrior," then there is no reason to wepants with multiple pleats. In some cases, however,well-placed pleat s, which help pants drape better andmake legs look longer, can be flattering.

One sheep yields about fivepounds of wool, enough fora couple of pairs of pants. PANT S : 4


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I THE PERFECT FIT

The Hem

One hem doesn't work on every pair of pants. If you tell a tailorto make your jeans the same length as your pleated trousers,you could wind up looking like Pee-Wee Herman . Regardless ofwhat you're having shortened, be sure to bring the appropriateshoes and let your pants sit where they're comfortable.

46 : PANTS


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PANTS : 4


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Shorts and SwimwearSHORTSShorts should be worn with caution. By all means,mow the lawn in shorts, lounge by th e pool inthem, even stroll through your local farn1ers'market displaying your legs to the '


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CARGO SHORTS TROUSER SHORTS

,

EL ASTIC-WAIST SWIM TRUNKS CLASSIC-CUT SWIM TRUNKS

PANTS :


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POKER ROOM AT THE BELLAGIOMatching th e pants with a ti e and collaredbutton-down shirt shows your tablematesthat you've got big plans for after you taketheir money.

TO THE BALLPARKDistinguished gray trousers become gamworthy with a polo shirt and a casual jack


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HOW TO PULL OFFWhite PantsWhite pants are something of a statement and, for this reason,they can be intimidating to some men. Pull them off by remembering that it's all about balance: Pair them with the right items,and you'll be more Jay Gats by in West Egg than the Skipper onGiiiigan)s Island.

BEGINNERWhite jeans are the best place tostart. Contrast them with somecolor-a bright polo shirt, forinstance-and a pair of loafers foran effortlessly cool look straightfrom the Cote d'Azur. (Just keepthe knitwear offyour shoulders.)

52 PANTS

.: : INTERMEDIATE: Once you've 1nastered the jeans,: move on to white or cream-colored.: linen pants . Nothing keeps you.: cooler during th e summer months.: Wear a contrasting shirtin a subtle: color-blackor navy are good-and: a pair of dark suede shoes...

.....

ADVANCED.............

For those willing to tum up thesummer style stakes to 11 , whitepants and a blue blazer (or i f youhave a lo t of confidence, a whitepinstripe suit) are the height ofsummer elegance. Again, makesure you wear a contrasting shirand pair the outfit with blackoxford shoes and a braided beltfull-on Nantucket sophistication


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DON'TS

DON'T WEAR PANTSTHAT ARE TOO TIGHTNo one's impressed by a bulge.

54 PANTSI

DON'T DO PLAIDUnless you're named Jock orare going to a costume party asBraveheart.DON 'T WEAR SUSPENDERSYou're no t GordonGeld


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HOW TO BUY

Prop,er alterations can make a goapair of pants into a great one.Length is the obVi0us place a tailor can work his magie. Ywill have to dee_rde about cuffs and breaksT but remembeTto take into account the we1ght of tbe erath and the w-ay yplan to wear your shoes. Another way a tailor can -save thday is in the seat and croteh. Get tfqese dimensions t ightlots of guys need a little more room there-and your pantare going to be as comfortable as a second skin. s ewa-retrying to take the waist 1n too much. More than an ~ n c h a1you should be buying a different pair of pants. ~ l s o , ask thtailer to leave the extra fabric in the seams.. You never khowhen you m ~ g h t need to go in tbe other d i r e c t i o n ~

PANTS :


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4I

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1 Clothing is the outward expression of th einner person. It's important to dress in a waythat sends the right message but also lookseffortless and natural. Wearing clothing thatis inappropriate to your inner character isth e biggest mistake a man can make in termsof fashion.

2 An ai r ofmystery is a very sensual thing.I do n't believe that women need to show a lo tof sldn to be sexy-why reveal to th e entireworld what is ye t to be unwrapped?

3 Sexy is not a matter of age; it's a matter of attitude. Look at Richard Gere and Annette Bening.Have they ever looked more beautiful than theydo today? Being an Italianman of a certain age, Iwould argue that sexiness increases as yo u

4

5

get older. There is something very attractiveabout experience.

Ifyou' re a man lost fo r style, find a male rolemodel. Who do yo u identify with? Are you aBrad Pitt kind ofguy? Or do yo u see yourselfmore as a Derek Jeter? And go shopping. Menare so afraid of this; it n1akes no sense.

Growing up in Milan, I went to th e cinema constantly an d was captivated by the impossiblyglamorous men that I sa w. Movie stars like ClarkGable , James Dean, an d Cary Grant. Cary Grantjust looks amazing in a suit-even when he 'sbeing chased by a crop duster through a field ofcorn. You canlearnhowto be smooth bywatching a man like that.

-

6 I believe in adventure in clothing but I d\believe in spandex superhero costumes

7 Always take the advice of awoman over that of aman. Always. Men tend to regardoutfits solely in terms ofwh

j they'd wear them themselvej but women have an un.cann~ ability to distance themselvj from things lil


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--- ~ ~ - - -BLAZER BASICS0 THE DETAILSBlazers are all about details, whether it's ribbon lapels,striped-silk linings under th e collar, or embroidery.They can be playful without being embarrassing.(We hope.)

0 .THE FABRICBlazers are available in nearly every imaginable material from wool and cotton to corduroy an d velvet.Every man should own a summer sport coat, in eitherlinen or light-weight cotton an d several others for th ecooler seasons.

0 THE PATTERNSThe simplest, most fail-safe pattern for a blazer is th ewindowpane plaid, which is essentially just a seriesof squares that ru n across th e coat. Then there's glenplaid, herringbone, houndstooth, and Prince ofWalescheck-all classics .

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BLAZERS

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0 THE POCKETSIfyou want a blazer to appear more casual, try patchpockets instead of th e usual flap or jetted style. A papocket is sewn onto th e jacket instead of being cu t inth e cloth. Because th e whole pocket is visible, it is alittle less dressy and a lo t more appealing, especiallyon a single-breasted blazer.

0 SINGLE-BREASTED VS.DOUBLE-BREASTED

As with suits, the choice between a single or doublebreasted blazer is strictly one of preference. Both areperfectly acceptable, but double-breasted is more formal and harder to pull off.


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you feel up for plaid, we recommend keeping it:Wear it with a white shirt and jeans. Bold maybeautiful, but too bold is ugly.

VELVETVelvet makes such a strong statement that anythingyou accompany it with should be understated. Keep thecolors to aminimum.

TWEED

Evocative of fox hunts, tweed blazers are elegantin any color or texture. Elbow patches are op tional.

KHAKIThe khald blazer is a modern-day classic. Opt for slim,brushed-cotton styles an d never, ever pair it withkhaki pants.

BLAZERS: 65


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-- w--THE PERFECT FITSLIM VERSUS RELAXEDBecause a blaze r is more casual than a suit, you havemore freedom with the fit. Loose layering requires aroomier, more relaxed jacket. If you want a crisper,more formal look, opt foi slimmer tailoring... . .... ..... ..... ~ . ..... ............. ...... ... . . .... . .. . ..... . . ....THE SLEEVESSleeve length should leave room for about a quarterinch of shirt cuffto show.

TH E VENTSVents allow for a more forgiving fit. A single center vworks better ifyou like a slim profile. Double ventswgive you more volume around the pants to make roofor that sweater. They are good for bigger guys (whoshould avoid a double-breasted jacket at all costs).

THE BUTTONSThree-button blazers may help the vertically challengfeel a little taller. A one- or two-button stylewill brinthe oversize guy back into proportion.

'

In the 1880s English cricket clubs began.making use of brightly colored and pat-terned sport jackets. Some of the jacketswere so vibrant that onlookers beganreferring to them as "blazers." . B LAZERS :


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DRESS UP, DRESS DOWNHow to wear one navy blazer forthree different occasions.

68 : BLAZERS

0 TO AN AFTERNOON PARTYPair a navy jacketwith pressed khalds, a tie, acrispwhite pocket square, and you canwear itany dressy daytime event.


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TO THE BOARDROOMThe dark-blue blazer becomes less preppy an dmore business-appropriat e when worn over acontrast shirt, with wool trousers , and polishedblack cap toes.

ON A DATEFor a laid-back weeknight ou t, sl


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HOW TO PULL OFFA Blazer With JeansThe blazer with jeans is a 21st-century classic. Th ere are plentyof ways to embrace the combination from subtle to bold.

,,.

BEGINNERWear a blazer over a collaredwhite shirt with jeans and loafersor sneakers.

70 BLAZERS

....

: INTERMEDIATE....... ..

Wake up a navy blazer with a boldgingham-check shirt. Add a knit tiefor texture and contrast th e dressiness with jeans in a dark wash.

-

...

: ADVANCED.......

Try a lush velvet-corduroy blazerpairedwith moleskin pants andsuede loafers. Texture is th euncharted territory of the welldressed man.


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DON'TS

DON'T DO TOO BUSYIt's a blazer, not a billboard. If you want to demonstrateyour risl


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HOW TO BUY

START WITH BASIC BLAZERS BLUE OR MULTICOLOR CHECK THAT GIVE YOU A LOT OFOPTIONS. WHEN YOU'VE GOT TWO OR THREEOF THOSE (AND THAT WILL GET YOU THROUGA SURPRISINGLY LARGE NUMBER OF OCCA-SIONS) INDULGE YOURSELF IN THE JACKETTHAT TURNS HEADS.

A WORDABOUT FABRICS .Blazers are all about fun, but think carefullyabout how you're going .to wearthat khakiblazer before you buy ...it. Middle-of-the-road .fab rics like blue woolhave a lo t ofrange. But .the outer edges of thespec trum-velvet onone side and khclki onthe other-require skillto pull off.

I$

PRICE POINTS STILL MATTER~ -So, you're better off spending a lot more on a con-

servative, versatile blazer .(yes, the boring blu.eone), and less on fashion whims. Over time, you'llfind th.at the old standby not only gives you goodva1ue but it will free up cash over the long haul foimpulse buys.

JEWELRY SHOPS AND VINTAGE STORES HAVE SOME GREATBUTTONS, SO DO OLD -TIME HABERDASHERIES . WHEN YOU GET APAIR OF BUTTONS THAT YOU lOVE, IT ' S S I MPLE TO REPLACE THEEXISTING ONES ON YOUR JACKET TO GET A CUSTOM LOOK . B L AZERS


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78 TIES

-

PRINTPrint ties add visual interest andcolor to your wardrobe. Just stayaway from novelty patterns.

BRIGHTBalance playful, brightly coloredties with equally eye-catchingpocket squares or socks.

SOLID COLORSolid-color ties are underrated.They look particularly sophisticatedwith striped shirts.

KN1TKnit ties add texture. And contrato popular opinion, you can wearthem year-round.


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SMALL PATTERNKeep your neckwear tasteful, notoverpowering, with a tiny hounds-tooth or microdot pattern.

VARIEGATED STRIPEEssential accessories don't haveto be boring. The variegated stripeadds stylish pizzazz.

STRIPEStriped ties, worn with a navyblazer an d a crisp white shirt, area classic co mbination.

POLKA DOTDots used to be exceedingly popu-lar. Their extreme versatilitywillmake them so again.

TIES

7


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- w - -

PERFECT FITRIGHT LENGTH

isn't better when it comes to ties . Rule# 1: Theofyour tie should never extend belowyour

Some men choose to tuck a tie into theirwhich is not a sin, but not recommended. I f

u're vertically challenged,you can le t the tail-theback portion of th e tie-hang longer and tuck

your pants ... .. ... . . ....... . .. .. .... .... . . . . . . . . . . .... . . . .. . .. .. _._ . ... . . .. . ...

KNOTknot you choose depends mostly on the shape ofshirt collar. Spread collars need a larger knot to

fill the gap. While there are dozens ofvariations on thetie knot, if you can believe it , only one really matters.The four-in-hand is th e basic, and best, knot, on e thatcan be worn successfullywith all collar types. Windsorknots are overrated, and as such, should be avoided.It's amyth that the Duke ofWindsor tied a Windsorknot. He simply had his haberdasher use thicker silk.

WELL-MADEA properly knotted ti e is meant to arc from th e neck abit. It's easier to accomplish this with a well-made silktie, but a ta b collar or ti e ba r will assist in achieving thesame effect.. .... .. . .. .... . ..... . . . . . . ..... .... . . .. . . . . . . . .. . .. ... . . . .. . . . . . ..THE WIDTHTie widths tend to vary from on e year to the next.You can tr y to keep up with th e comings an d goingsof a ficlde fashion flock, but with miles of ties outthere- and th e fact that a well-cared-for on e can last alifetime-you are better off finding a style that fits yourface and frame...... ...... . . .... . ... ... . . ...... .. . .. . ... ... ... .... ... ..... . .. .. . .THE DIMPLEMuch overlookedis th e dimple, which should liedirectly below th e knot ( s e ~ page 82). A tie without adimple is like pants without a fly. It absolutely needsto be there.

Cambridge University physicistsThomas Fink and Yang Maodetermined that there are 85different ways to tie the con-ventional necktie.

TIES : 81


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KNOTS 101

0

Four-in-hand@ Place the ti e around your collar with the wider side

draped on your right and under your right hand.Take each side in each hand midway down the tie.The skinny side should be about a foot shorterthan the wide side.

@ Put your right hand over your left, pull underand across-you've just established the length ofthe tie.

0 Now flip the ti e from your right shoulder across toyour left and hold th e knot in your left hand.

82 TIES

0

0

0 A great knot comes down to tension- and a dimple. Carefully reach through the knot with yourright hand and pull up, then feed the tie downinto itself.You will see the knot forming nicely

0 To finish the tie properly, pull gently from justbeneath the knot to achieve the right tension.Pinching the center of th e tie between thumband forefinger is the best way to go here. That wyou'll create that all-important dimple.


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0

0

0

0

0

Bow TieBelieve it or not, knotting a bow ti e isn't thatdifficult to master. It may take a few attempts,but once you get it down, it's no sweat.0 Start with a simple right over left.0 Take the left side and fold it at the throat into

half a bow.0 Take the right up and over so it hangs down the

middle of the bow. Fold th e right end horizontallyand slip it through the knot behind the left .

0 0

0

0

Pull the loops at each en d to tighten the bow.What follows is a lot ofwiggling to even out th eends and make your bow smooth an d balanced.A bow ti e shouldn't be perfect, or you won't getcredit for having tied it.Remember, bo w ties look best when worn witha tux. There's a pretty significant putz factor oth-erwise. So unless you're changing your name toRedenbacher, do yourself a favor, an d stay away.

TIES : 8


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HOW TO PULL OFFPrints With PrintsDressing well has everything to dowith finding new ways to combinethe components of your wardrobe.Each new piece you buy sets updozens of possibilities. Nowhere isthis more important than with shirtsand ties. But you're going to have tolearn some basic rules.

86 T IES

BEGINNERMatch your colors. Make sure your shirt and tie sharea common color. Aword of caution: Beware the monochromatic look.While you want there to be some ofthe same color in both, the exact color is not recom-mended.When starting out, just be sure there aresimilar tones in both the tie and the shirt.


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INTERMEDIATEBalance patterns:The easy rule of thumb is to usestriped ties to offset patterned shirts an d printedties (make sure the print is a different scale) to offsetstripes.Dots gowith everything.

ADVANCEDPattern mixing is allowed. Whenyou feel up to ita striped tie with a striped shirt. Just make sure thstripes are different sizes. Avoid this look when wa pinstripe suit. A common color theme is wise hbu t not necessary. The same rules apply for patteand checks. Busy isn't bad, but you don't want tocrazy here. Too much activity may cause seizures

TIES


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DON'TS

0 ' A"G '

You don't want a knot that's going to compete withyour h e a d ~ A giant lmot on a too-thick tie will immediately overpower your suit.

88 TIES

DON'T GET TOO LOOSEOR TOO MESSYIt 's perfectly acceptable to unbutton your shirt collar and loosenyour ti e a bi t, but there's a limit thow loose it should be. An inchand-a half below the Adam's applis appropriate. If the knot settlessomewhere between your pees,then you might as well take thetie off. You don't want to wanderaround looking like you've justbeen lassoed .


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HOW TO BUY

Ties al ow us to show some e r s o n a l sty:le in a seaof navy suts. Like shoes, they can dress up an outfitor make it more relaxed. Most men don't have nearlyenough ties in their wardrobe. Start with a solid navytie. Buy some ties with stripes in two cofo:rs. Thenbranch out into some basic patterns. Remember toget a conservative dominant color: blu,e, brown, red, oreven yellow. The knit tie has seen a resurgence ir1 pop-ularity and works well in many situations.

T IES :


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1 What works for men is mixing something rugged with something indulgent. I f you're wearin g a floor-length sheepskin coat an d a to-plysweater, wear it with torn-up jeans. Mix something high with something low.

2 Guys are more secure about mixing now. It usedto be either "work" or "weekend" wear or "baddate." Abad-date outfit is too much Bordeaux- awine-colored leather jacketwith a short-sleeveslinky knit. For a lo t of men, the idea of whatyou wear on a date is something that feels sexual. The reality is, you look like you're wearingyour girlfriend's blouse in a big size.

3 The rules for dressing have changed. Everyoneis 35 today. Brad Pitt is 40. Kurt Russell is 53 .Jude Law is 31. And I think they're al135. Theyounger guy is wearing tailored pieces to looksophisticated. And the older gu y is going for amore casual piece to feel younger. It all kindof comes together, and the world is 35. Exceptme. I'm 8s.

5 For most men , shorts work unless you havetotal pelican legs . You can go to the gy m 10 0times a week, but either you have good legs oryou don't. I fyou do have good legs, they staygood. I f so, I say go for it. Myself, I'm a JudyGarlandkind of guy. Everything else has goneto seed, but the legs are still good.

6 A tan makes you feel skinnier, just like weardark clothes does. There's something aboutman with a tan-i t says a guys either th e bosor a bum. He's not middle management.

7 I believe in clipping and pruning, but not inshaving. I've even seen men wh o shave th ehair on their forearms, which is a strange lookLike they were eating fondue and got to o closto the flame.

8 If you're not great-looking, wear a fabulouswatch, carryexpensive luggage, wear sunglasses. It worked for Onassis. Even if

.

you don't have a big bank account, you looklike you do .

9 All men should own a blackj cashmere turtleneck, ahigh-quality tropical-weight blacksuit, black driving loafers, andthe most expensive white shir

~ you can afford .

1Q I won't wear a bow tie with a tuxedo becauseI feel like someone is going to order a drinkfrom me . For most men, th e neck is not aneasy area. I thinkyou have to be really skinnyor really fat- someone like Jude Law or PhilipSeymour Hoffman.

11 Matching head-to-toe sports outfits freakme out . I t works for Dave Beckham becausehe is actually coming off th e field. He is not anaccountant or a stockbroker running arounddoing errands .

RULES OF STYLE: 9


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SUIT BASICS0 THE SHOULDERSAgood suit starts at th e s ~ o u l d e r s . It should fit yourposture and flatter your frame . If your suit jacketdoesn't make you look better when you put it on,you're wearing the wrong one.

0 THE LAPELAvoid narrow and extra wide and keep it somewherein the middle. Also consider whether you prefer anotched lapel-which is customary-or a more dramaticpeaked version.

0 THE BUTTONSSuit snobs pay close attention to th e buttons on thesleeve of a suit jacket. Most suits, even those from topEuropean designers, have sleeve buttons that don'tactually unbutton but are strictly for show. The.bestsuits have working button holes on th e sleeves. Andwhile you 're not likely to ever see anyone rolling upthe sleeve of th e suit jacket unless his name is MichaelJackson, some flashier types like undoing these buttons in order to show off th e superior hand tailoring oftheir garment. , .

94 SUITS

0 THE PATTERNStripes and checks are the most popular patterns forsuits-though these are often so subtle they are no tnoticeable from even a short distance.A better suitcarefully matches where the patterns meet and overlwith stripes continuing across the seams perfectly.

0 THE POCKETSMost suits are delivered with the pockets sewn shut.Pull them open, but don't load them withyour PDA ,keys, or iPod as this will ruin the silhouette.

0 THE LININGSubtle or shocking, a good lining, like functional butto n holes on the sleeve, allows suit junkies anotheropportunityto demonstrate their sartorial flair.

0 THE STITCHINGSuperior suits are hand-stitched by a tailor. Althoughfusing-a fancy word for th e suit being glued ~ together-is commonplace for off-the-rack suits, a truhandmade suit will be sewn by artisans .This will bereflected in the price .


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; .

98

...

1

~

.,

..

SUITS

BLACKNot just for undertakers anymore.Worn with a softblue shirt, th e black suit can feel decidedly informaTry a crisp white shirt and skinny blacl< tie, and youunderstand why this look is such a classic.


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(

GRAYNext to midnight blue, a gray suit is the essentialcomponent of any well-curated closet . Nothing is soversatile:Whether worn with blackJbrown, or cordovanshoes, you can wear the same gray suit every day of theweek. As long as you vary shoes and shirt and tie, noonewill be the wiser.

HERRINGBONEA classic gentleman 's suit, herringbone ge tsfrom the zigzag pattern of the twill used to mGenerally, this is a heavier suit, which is at itsthe winter.

SU ITS


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OPTIONS

COTTONWarm weather isn't an excuse to dress down. Cotton.,brushed or otherwise,will le t you maintain your stylewithout suffocating.

100 : SUITS

LINENMost suits are wool, and no matter ho w lightweightthey may be, are too warm to be worn during th e summer. The linen suit offers an antidote to overheatingwhen the mercury starts to rise, and can be worn witmore casual shoes, even sneakers, if it's appropriatethe occasion.


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I

PRINCE OF WALESAglen-check suitwith a light-b lue overplaid, is th eclassic Prince ofWales. A French-blue shirtwill bringout the best in it.

WINDOWPANEAn elegant alternative to pinstripes, a subtlewpane plaid is a beautiful addition to any wardr

SUITS


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-- w--T H E PERFECT FITYou could have the most expensive suit on th e market,but i f it doesn't fit properly, you're going to look likea farmer. Asuit should be neither to o tight nor to oloose, it should gently hug th e body, but not restrict.you m anyway.Asuit jacket should pull smoothly across your backwhen buttoned. The lapels are meant to lay flat acrossthe chest. Some padding in th e shoulders, we're nottalking David Byrne here, can help fill out your frame.Needless to say, there is no one style that works bestfor all men. Take your time. Do your research. Andwhatever you do, trust the mirror. No matter ho wrnuch your wife or girlfriend (if you're still shoppingwith your mother at this pointJ finding th e right suit isthe least of your problems) tell you how amazing youlook, ifyou aren't feeling it, try something else.

THE ENGLISH FITThe British have a rich tradition of impeccable tailoring. While Savile Row has changed significantly overth e years, there's still no place lil


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l THE PERFECT FIT

Fit Tips

0

0-

THE LAPELSThe lapels ofyour suit jacket are meant to lay flat acrossyour chest. If they bow out even a little, then the suit istoo tight.Makesure th e notch on your lapel is close toyour ti e knot, otherwise you 'll look lopsided.

10 4 :

SUITS

THE BUTTONSThe number ofbuttons on a suit has more to do witpreference than fit. On a three-button suit, th e onlybutton that gets used is th e waist, or middle, buttonYou may be tempted to button the top button in arakish way, but resist this urge. When there are tw obuttons, fasten only th e top one. An elegant alternais the single-button suit, which offers a sharp,formal look.


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THE VENTSDouble vents make it easier to pull the jacket close toyour fra1ne, particularly if you're solidly built. Singlevents keep the silhouette slim, but allow for easyaccess to your pockets.

DOUBLE -BREASTED VS .SINGLE -BREASTEDThe single-breasted suit should be your defaultchoice for both work and play.The double-breastedversion is a dashing, continental choice that's chic,but not for men on the shorter or heavier side as itfabric to your midsection. One other tip: Always keeit buttoned.

SUITS:


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DRESS UP, DRESS DOWNHow to wear one gray suit for fourdifferent occasions.

AT THE OFFICESon1e men think an open collar means theylook more relaxed, but in reality they appear likethey've missed a step. Ifyou are wearing a suitand a white or blue shirt to the office, thenyoushould always choose a tie.

LATE NIGHT OU TWhenworn with a strong patterned or darkercolor shirt, th e suit makes the transitiontonight.


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MEETING THE PARENTSLose th e tie and wear a sweater underyour jacket.

SUNDAY BRUNCHPairwith a casual polo shirt and sneakers fothe weekend.


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HOW TO PULL OFFThe Khaki SuitWhile this perfect summer suit doesn't have to be kept in thecloset after dark, you need to accessorize correctly to make akhaki suit as versatile as a dark one.

BEGINNERKhaki suits are made for daytimeevents with relaxed dress codes.Reinforce th e informal aestheticwith a chambray shirt, a thinsweater vest , and ta n leather shoesor spotless white sneakers.

110 : SUITS

....

~ .

......: INTERMEDIATE .......

......

Sand-colored cotton's preppy roots :make it a perfect backdrop for :bright color. Pair a khak i suit with :

a green-and-whitestriped tie, a :collared shirt, or a polo in a sherbet :hue like tangerine or raspberry. :

Avoid overkill by steering clear of :whale pants and sailboat motifs. :

. '

.

ADVANCEDA khaki sui t can look just aselegant as a tux. The trick is to skth e bright colors and stickwithotherwise black-and-white paleta crisp white shirt, a black ti eadorned with a silver tie bar, andwhite pocket square.


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DON'TS

'J

DON'T WEAR SUITS WITHTOO MANY BUTTONSAnything more than three buttons on a single-breastedsuit has disaster written all over it. Thinl< MC Hammer.He used to own this lool


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OW TO BUY

IKET SQUARES CAN ADD A DRESSY ACCENT TO YOUR

IT. WE RECOMMMEND A S I MPLY FOLDED ONE , QUARTERHESWATCH OF FABR IC AN D SHOW JUST A SLIVER FROMUR CHEST POCKET .

CUSTOM A full -on cus -tom suit is a collaboration'between client and tailor.Each tailor has his own styleso you are better of f finding ataiiG>r whose work you admirethan trying to make a tailorbend toward your imagina-tion. Once you 've found as y m p a t h e t i c sartorial s o u l ~ mate, discuss what you wantto use the suit for and whatdetails he can add to makeit special. Custom tailors areartisans, if y0u find the righttailor, stick with h i m ~

SUITS: 113


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TUXEDO BASICS0 THE STRIPEThe tuxedo is descended from a military dress uniform,which explains the stripe down the seam of the pants.

0 SINGLE-BREASTED VS.DOUBLE -BREASTED

Like suits, tuxedos are offered in single and doublebreasted silhouettes. And, as with suits, make su reyou're a double-breasted buildbefore making yourselfa double-breasted guy. Single-breasted tuxedos havetraditionallyhad a rounded, or shawl, collar. While thisstyle has endured and continues to be perfectly acceptable, you can't go wrong with a peaked or even notchlapel these days.

0 THE SHIRTWear a well-pressed white dress shirt (preferably Frenchcuff).Warning: Wearing a ruffled shirt is a bold move.You don 't want to look like one of the Sweat Hogs onprom night. (If th eWelcome Back, Kotter reference is loston you, dig up an old photo ofyour father at his seniorformal, and you'll get the idea.)

118

0 THE VEST OR CUMMERBUNDYou can wear either a vest or a cummerbund undersingle-breasted tuxedo but nothing but a shirt unda double-breasted one.Just so you know, the pleatth e cummerbund face up because they're designedcatch any crumbs that may fall. If there's one blackcomponent that is truly optional these days, it is thcummerbund. If you do choose to wear a cummerbor vest, stay away from jazzy patterns lil


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TUXEDO BASICS0 THE STRIPEThe tuxedo is descended from a military dress uniform,which explains the stripe down the seam of the pants.

0 SINGLE-BREASTED VS.DOUBLE -BREASTED

Like suits, tuxedos are offered in single and doublebreasted silhouettes. And, as with suits, make su reyou're a double-breasted buildbefore making yourselfa double-breasted guy. Single-breasted tuxedos havetraditionallyhad a rounded, or shawl, collar. While thisstyle has endured and continues to be perfectly acceptable, you can't go wrong with a peaked or even notchlapel these days.

0 THE SHIRTWear a well-pressed white dress shirt (preferably Frenchcuff).Warning: Wearing a ruffled shirt is a bold move.You don 't want to look like one of the Sweat Hogs onprom night. (If th eWelcome Back, Kotter reference is loston you, dig up an old photo ofyour father at his seniorformal, and you'll get the idea.)

118

0 THE VEST OR CUMMERBUNDYou can wear either a vest or a cummerbund undersingle-breasted tuxedo but nothing but a shirt unda double-breasted one.Just so you know, the pleatth e cummerbund face up because they're designedcatch any crumbs that may fall. If there's one blackcomponent that is truly optional these days, it is thcummerbund. If you do choose to wear a cummerbor vest, stay away from jazzy patterns lil


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DOUBLE -BREASTEDToo many men who shouldn't be wearing doublebreasted suits make th e mistake of thinking they canpull off a double-breasted tuxedo.

120 : FORMALWEAR

SHAWL COLLARIt's th e simplicityof the black-and-white outfit thatmakes it so classy.The rounded shawl collar has lonbeen the classic.You don't need to improve upon it .


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SINGLE-BREASTEDAsingle-breasted tuxedo in a notched or a peaked lapelis as acceptable as the traditional shawl collar.

'

WHITE DINNER JACKETIf it 's summer or you're attending a function in a yearound warm climate, t he white dinner jacket is a clasoption. Avoid the red carnation- an d the red wine .

FORM ALWEAR : 1


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VELVETIf you're willing to go for it, thengo big and be sure to ge t a pairembroideredwith your initials.

122 : FORMALWEAR

BLACK LACE -UPSAwidely acceptable al ternative toflashier formal footwear.

BIB SHIRTSo-called because of th ewovenoval that extends across the chthe bib shirt is a solid choice foformal attire.

PATENT LEATHEROld-school fashion law dictatesthat pumps are th e proper sho eswear with a tuxedo. Break this laI fyou feel inclined to honor tradtion, try a pair of patent-leatherslip-ons.


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' l"'

" & fftO nMtsm 6 t!! ' tr? lm

WING COLLAR PLEATED SHIRT TURN-DOWN COLLARAthrowback to the 19th century,the wing collar is best suited forwhite tie and tails. Stick with aturn-down collar.

Pleats are the classiest oftuxedo shirts.

Simple an d elegant, this is thepreferred shirt for wearing widinner jacket.

BOW TIENever use a clip-on. Once yo u learnto tie a bo w (see page 83), you'llnever go back.

STRAIGHT TIEThe impossible-to-ignore option.Wearing a four-in-hand ti e with atuxedo is modern an d chic.

FORMALWEAR :


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- - W - -1THE PERFECT FIT

A TUXEDO FITS LIKE A SU I TAs with your suits, fit is everything when it comes toblack-tie dressing. Stick with a single-button, singlebreasted cut that sits close to you r fra1ne. For warmwea ther even ts, try a white dinner jacket if you'refeeling particularly confident. (Be sure to pair it withblack tuxedo pants .A white suit at a black-tie party isdefinitely not a good look.) -- * THE BREAKIt's okay for your pants to have a shorter break thanyour standard trousers have. tl

THE FABRICIn the autumn and winter months, stick with the classicwool fabrics used for your suits. As you'll probablyonly have one tu xedo in the closet , make sure th e woolisn't too heavy.This is a big-ticket item, and you'llwant to get the 1nost wear ou t of the tuxedo .

CUFF LINKS? GO TO PAGE 240

THE STUDS AND CUFF LINKSTuxedo shirts have traditionally required a stud ancuff-link set. These days studs are no longer a ntusas going without has become quite con1mon and cpresent a clean, sophisticated look. The French-cufshirt, ho wever, should be a staple. Find classic sterling-silver cuff links or perhaps some vintage enan1as long as th e colors are relatively neutral.10 e e I e I ~ e e I t e e e e e e I I e e I I e e f t f f f f f

JACKET REQUIREDUnless you're planning to drape your jacket over thshoulders of a shivering female, keep it on..... .. . . ... . . . . .. . .. . ... . . . . . .... . . . ... . .. . . . . . ... . ... .. . . ..A WORD ABOUT WEDDING ATTIREA morning sui t with a cutaway coat is the most fordaytime outfit a man canwear. If you're getting n1ried while th e sun is out, the morning sui t can be aelegant choice. Wear it with a vest, a striped ti e, anbxfords. Leave the top ha t and th e ascot at home.

FORMALWEAR:


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HOW TO PULL OFF

The TuxedoLose the cummerbund. Unless Henry VIII gnawing on aFlintstones-size chicken leg represents your gold standard for tablemanners, the cummerbund is superfluous.If you only wear a tuxedo once or twice a year, make the effortand tie your own bow tie. If you have many social engagementsthat call for black tie, mix it up a bit and work a straight tie inoccasionally. And no matter which tie you choose, go with the turndown collar.Never wear a belt with formalwear. Suspenders may seem cool,but most men wear them incorrectly. In order to pull them offsuccessfully, your clothes need to be cut properly. Odds are yoursaren't. In reality, your tuxedo pants should have a strong waistbandand sidetabs to take the place of suspenders.

BEGINNERDo you wear a tux once a year?Then stick to the forn1ula. You'llen joy it , even th e ritual cursing asyou screw up your bow tie th efirst time.

126 : FORMALWEAR

......

....

. INTERMEDIATE..................

Get the right shoes on and usethem to make a statement. Ifyou've go t a great family heirloomlil


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DON'TS

DON'T OVERDO ITThe tuxedo is a fairly rigid form . If you 'regoing to wear one, try to stick to thebasic formula .

128 : FORMALW EAR

DON 'T WEAR COLORED TUXEDOSThis is one case when fashion should be black an

h i e ~ without any gray area.DO N ' T GO TOO SMALLMake sure your tuxedo fi ts . Even i f ifs re nted , it iyours for the evening, so take the ti me to h ave a t.g1ve you a once-over.DON 'T TRY TO BRING BACK LOST STYLESYou m ight thin k you're send ing up the self-seriouyou 're really just being rude. If an o ccasion is blacyou should show up in a tuxedo or send your reg


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HOW TO BUY

THINK ABOUT HOW YOU'RE REALLYGOING TO USE YOUR TUXEDO. IF YOUONLY GO TO A FEW FORMAL EVENTS A

YEAR, JUST WEARING A TUX IS SPECIALENOUGH. IF YOU'RE GOING OUT A LOT,YOU'LL WANT SOME VARIETY, THINKABOUT GETTING ANOTHER JACKET-WHITE PERHAPS OR SOMETHING ELSETO WORK INTO THE ROTATION .

Remember, your tu.xedo should fit like asuit. If you haven't bought one yet, even ifyou only wear one once a year, it's time topull the trigger. Owning a tuxedo is the markof a true gentleman. You shouldn't be rentingclothing at this point in your life.

! ALITTLE GOES A LONG WAY. US E VERY SUBT L E DETA IL S-HEIRLOOM STUDS , VELVE T SH O ES , A POCKET SQUAR E-TOGIVE YOU SOME DISTINCT I ON .

FORMALWEAR : 1


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1 Smooth is a thing you can lea rn from Sinatra.

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He looked everybody in th e eye. The way hemoved-Sinatra was always making statements , but he was never being loud. He didn' thave to ye ll.

You've got to get your smell right . Wall


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FINISHES/WASHESThe wash of a jean speaksvolumes about th e n1an wearingit . Try wearing a pair of acid-washjeans on your next date andyou 'll see what we n1ean. If you'regoing to experiment, stickwithvarying degrees of stone-wash.Otherwise, le t your favorjt e pairsweather naturally.

136 : JEANS

BLUEBlue straight-leg jeans are universally appealing.

DARK BLUEInky jeans are timeless. They'ralso th e elegant pair you can dup with a collared shirt and bl


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GRAYGray jeans, which have been havingamoment in recent years, are des-tined to become a contemporaryclassic-especiallywhen worn withaT-shirt and a black sweater.

WHITEWhite jeans are th e hardest style topull off, but it's worth trying.Wearthem with a simple, solid-coloredsweater- andl


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HE PERFECT FITactually no such thing as th e perfect fi t when

comes to jeans. Some men like to wear theirs a littlewhile others-God bless 'em-prefer theirs on

tighter side. While both extremes can be takentoo far, there are plenty of options somewhere

the middle.STRAIGHT

you've got narrow hips andlong legs, you'll do wellith the standard straight leg, a classic, clean-cut

AmericanGraffiti look.

THE RELAXEDRelaxed-fit styles are th e Everyman jeans (andessential for those with a taste for steak and Cabernet).Just be sure yours aren't to o baggy, an d secure themwith a belt....................... .. .... ... . ... ... ..... .. . ... ......... .. . ... ,. ...THE SKINNYYou don't have to be a member of The Strokes to wearskinny jeans, but opt for slim-cut only if you're leanand lanky.

KNOW YOUR BODY TYPEWomen's fashion magazines advise their readers about"Dressing for Your BodyType." Believe it or not, thisapplies to guys, too. Knowing your build and dressin g accordingly is crucial with jeans. Be honest withyourself about your waist size.Thos_e 501s from collegeprobably haven't fit you in years.I f the 34 in one denim label doesn't fit you, try another.Jeans may have become a status symbol, but if th enewest, most-hyped brand doesn't look right on you,stickwith the classics.Don't try to hide extra weight with baggyjeans. Aimfor a pair cut to your personal taste-slightly snugor a little bi t loose-and make sure it sits securely onyour hips.

Levi Strauss & Co. spent over $45,000 at a2001 auction to buy back a pair of its ownjeans, which were found in a Nevada mining town and dated to the 1880s. JEANS : 139


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R E S S UP, DRESS DOWNHow to wear one pair of jeans forthree different occasions.Jeans have range. They can be considerably dressedup or decidedly casual. Ifyou're aiming for a formallook, select a pair of dark jeans and wear them with acrisp white shir t and patterned tie. Throw your navyblazer on top, add a white cotton po(ket square, andyou're dressed elegantly enough for a party.

Ifyou're dressing for a laid-back evening, op t for jeansin a medium to dark wash and pair them with a collarshirt . Undo a button or two at th e neck and roll up thesleeves.Trade th e cap toes for loafers and skip the tie. Ifthe occasion is a ba1lgame or a barbecue, you can wear apair as faded as you like. Just make sure, as always, thatyour T-shirt is clean and your sneakers are spotless.

140 : JEANS

0 FRIDAY MEETINGThankfully casual Fridays are just about extinct.But if the work meeting is on the informalside, you canwear jeans with a blazer, tie, andpolished wing tips.


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DRINKS AND DINNERShed the office-worthy blazer and tie andpairyour jeans with a sweater instead.

RUNNING ERRANDSThrow on a polo andwhite tennis shoes fordaytime shopping expeditions.


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HOW TO PULL OFFJeans With a Shirt and TieWearing jeans with the typical accompaniments for a suit ashirt and tie has officially become acceptable. And done right,it can be a stylish alternative to flannel trousers and a b l a z e r . ~ The golden rule: choose crisp, medium-to-dark jeans and savethe faded pairs forT-shirts.

BEGINNERAdopt a preppy,unfussy lookin jeans, an oxford shirt, and abrightly colored tie.

142 : JEANS

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~ : INTERMEDIATE...

Elevate the outfit to a slightly moreforn1allevel and add a cashmerecrewneck or a blazer.

- : ADVANCED..

.. .It

If you pair darkindigo jeans wita white shirt,'a black or navy tiea blazer, and polished lace-ups,you're dressed for a dinner part


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DON'TS

DON'T WEAR TORN JEANSIf you want your jeans to demonstrate your affinityfor hair bands or country stars, by all means, let it rip.Otherwise opt for intact, unadulterated denim.

144 : JEANS

DON'T SWING LOW"Dad jeans," the ones that sit juslightly below the ribcage, arebad. Low-rise jeans-and hip-bugers-the kind favored by ParisNicole- a re far worse.DON'T WEARBOOT-CUT JEANSJeans that flare at th e anlde aresuited to 12-year-old girls- notgrown m en .


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OW TO BUY

IALLY , TAKE CARE OF YOUR JEANS . IT MAY SOUND SILLY,COLOR CAN BE PRESERVED BY WASHING THEM I NSIDE. SOME GUYS GO SO FAR AS TO HAVE THEIR FAVORITERS DRY CLEANED . THIS IS DEFINITELY NOT A MUST , BU TNOT A CARDINAL SI N , EITHER , AS LONG AS YOU NEVERE A SHARP CREASE PRESSED INTO YOUR JEANS .

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I love the classics. A great pair of old, old jeans,a white button-down shirt, a navy blazer, nosocks, and Alden loafers.

For fall, I likegray flannel an d the right dressshirt-shirts with double-button collars sothey stand up on the neck. You can always tellthe difference between an expensive dress shirtand an inexpensive one by th e intensity of thecolor. For instance, the right light-blue shirtshould be a deep light blue.

4 Justin Timberlakehas great style. He's a blendof American classic, hip-hop, an d preppie.

5

6

I believe in "When inRome..." In Nantucket,which is the epitome of American summer lifI'll wear Nan tucket reds with a bright blazer.In Mustique, it's much more exotic, withMoroccan-inspired colors.And I also believe,when leaving Rome, take what's good aboutand incorporate it into your life.

I like safari prints, especially for th e home. Bthink of real authentic prints like you'd see insafari lodge in Kenya- not zebra prints in hotpink and blue. ..

7 If you go out in th e city to a formal d i n n e r ~ yo u need to dress appropriately. Agentlemashould act like a gentleman and dress like onHe should war a navy suit with pinstripes,maybe a pink shirt with a white collar, a:od anavy-and-something tie.Women should dressexy but sophisticated. There's nothing lessattractive than a vampy woman wearing toolittle clothing, who's sticking ou t her chest anwalking like a model when she's never beendown a runway.

8 For black tie, men should dress properly in atuxedo. No Nehru shirts with a diamond topbutton, hair allwet and slicked back, with atwo-daybeard.That's so L.A. Everyone looksdirty in L.A ., walking around wearing the worlooking T-shirt they can find.

9 In the scope of the world, fashion isn't thatimportant. It 's entertainment, a luxury toenjoy. It 's not a necessity.We could all ge talong very easilywith the most basic basics.

RULES OF STYLE : 14


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CASUA,L SHIRT BASICS0 THE WHITE T-SHIRT

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Every man needs a pile of freshly laundered, well-cutwhite T-shirts to call his own. Paired with the rightitems, tees are adaptable enough to be worn undera sport jacket or just with jeans or chinos. ReliableHanes are good for layering under sweaters and collared shirts, but spring for finer-gauge varieties if you'regoing to wear the shirt solo.

0 THE V-NECKThis variation on th e classic tee is best limited toloungingaround at home or at the beach. Pair withjeans or chinos.

0 THE POLONot all polo shirts are created equal. The loose knitpique cotton shirts first designed by tennis player ReneLacoste back in 1929 have become a classic that's foundfavor with everyone from prepsters to rappers. Note:Unless you're Jay-Z, a loose shirt isn't a good look.

150 :~ CASUAL SHIRTS

0 THE HENLEYNamed after th e shirts worn bythe rowers ofHenleyon-Thames in England, the modern version of thehenley is a collarless top, usually of woven cotton, wbuttons running down the chest. The henley can beworn with jeans or even dark trousers to an informalevent as an alternative to th e T-shirt. Avoid looking la fop from an Evelyn Waugh novel by choosing

~ one that's slim fitting and undoing the top coupleof buttons.

0 THE RUGBYAs anyone who's ever played the game of rugby can ttify that th e durability of the uniform is a natural woder. Taken out of its sport ing context, the rugby shiris a fun, masculine top you can wear to Sunday bruncThe more you wear and wash it the. better it gets, as tthick cotton breaks down and becomes mote worn inRugby shirts work best in bold horizontal stripes, budon't go crazy-too many primaryhues and you'llloolike a presenter on Playhouse Disney.


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152 :

RUGBY

SOLIID COLOR T-SHIRTColored T-shirts punch up yourcasual wardrobe. Wear them aloneor under a collared shirt with just asmall triangle of color showing.

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WHITE T ~ S H I R T There is an ideal white T-shirt outhere for every man. Look for it awhen you find it, buy a dozen-jufor sta rters .

LONG-SLEEVE POLOThe rugby has become a bona fideclassic. You can use high-qualitymodels as a stand-in for a

This under-appreciated polomakes a good stand-in for shortsleeve collared shirts when temperatures drop.polo shirt.

CASUAL SHIRTS


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POLO STRIPED POLOThe polo is so ubiquitous that weforget what a classic it is. You canwear one- in any of the mindboggling selection of colors-withalmost anything.

This is the classic golf shirt and i tshouldn't be messed with. Wear itwith chinos or under a blue blazer.

CONTRAST COLLAR POLOTry a polo shirtwith a collar in acontrasting hue as an alternativeto styles in bold stripes and subdued solid colors.

V-NECKV-neck shirts accentuate the chestso it helps to have the pees tomatch. Make sure yours are fittedbut not too tight.

HENLEYA compromise between aT-shirtand a button-down, the henley is aweekend staple. Wear it untuckedand always partially unbuttoned.

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--w --fTHE PERFECT FITNOT TOO TIGHTSkintight T-shirts say only one thing:meathead. Eithercut back on the protein shakes or find aT-shirt that covers your body without hugging it.

NOT TOO LONGAT-shirt that touches your knees is somethingyour girlfriend wore when she was on grade-schoolsleepovers. Yours should be long enough to tuck in butit shouldn't hang belowyour hips .

j

PO LOSWhen choosing a polo, think of it as you would a reglar shirt an d figure ou t which style and brand worksfor your body shape and size-many of the leadingbrands have recently introduced slimmer silhouettesthat look more modern. A word on the polo shirt collit was designed so that it could be turned up to blocksunlight. But choose your moment-on the beach isappropriate., at a sales conference isn't. Be a turned-ucollar user, no t an abuser.

Tennis champ Rene Lacosteinvented the polo shirt in 1929as a more comfortable alternative to the typical court attireof the time : a shirt and tie. Hisnickname was "the Alligator,"hence the logo. CASUAL SHIRTS : 1

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