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N E I G H B O R H O O D

B L O C K

ADJACENT HOMES

S I T E

• What are the current zoning l imitations? • Do the existing homes follow the current zoning setbacks?• What are the overall lot characteristics?• What is the predominant facade material facing the street?• What is the predominant roof pitch, type and material?

• How are homes set on their lots? • Is there an obvious pattern formed by heights of existing homes on the block?• Are there dominant architectural features?• Are the garages attached? Detached? Is there an alley?• What are the dominant landscape features? Where are the street trees located?

• Home types: • Ranch • Two Story • Cape Cod • Split Level • What are the approximate roof pitches?• Where are the adjacent homes’ garages and driveways situated?• What is the dominant lot orientation?• How are the homes situated on their lots? Close to the street? On or near the lot setbacks?• Are the views open to the backyard?• What are the landscape features?• What are the building materials used on adjacent homes?• What types of roof lines do the homes have?

• What is the width and depth of the lot?• Where does the proper ty sit on the block?• Is there alley access?• What are the unique features of the proper ty?• Are there any site conditions that affect the project’s height, setback lines, garage and driveway placement?• Are there landscaping challenges?

Identify patterns around your homene of the fi rst and most important steps in

remodeling or expanding an existing home in an

established neighborhood is to look around, learn,

and understand the existing patterns and character

traits that can offer design cues for your project.

You are responsible for the future of your own

neighborhood. Developing a detailed awareness

of the neighborhood, the block, and the adjacent

homes surrounding your site will allow you to

better understand how to address the conditions

and challenges that you may encounter.

O Each city has its own zoning ordinances that

regulate what and how owners might remodel

or build on their property. Within these zoning

ordinances, common building setback criteria

are usually established that regulate how close to

any property line a building might be. Consistent

setbacks, roof pitches (the slope of the roof),

eave heights, and building materials are a few of

the qualities that give a neighborhood a cohesive

character and create a visual appeal from the public

streets and sidewalks for all to enjoy.

• Gabled roof front stoop (6' deep x 10' wide)• One-story, rear-yard addition

• Gabled and shed roof front porch • (6' deep x 20' wide)• Two-story, rear-yard addition

• Gabled roof front stoop (6' x 10') eave overhang (2.5')• One-story rear addition• Two-story rear addition

Match slope of existing roof1 Match eave line2 Match existing size, shape and proportion of windows3Tips for all remodeling projects:

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Addition no widerthan the exisitng house is deep

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Addition no longer than the existing house is deep

Addition no higher than existing ridge. 1

Offset 1'–3'

Additionno longer

than wide

Addition half as long as existing

is deep

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Addition less than half the width of theexisting home

Match existing height

Addition less than half the depth of theexisting home

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Addition no longerthan the exisitng house is deep

Addition no wider than the exisitng house is deep

Covered rear porch opportunity

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Open space

Addtion no longerthan the exisitng house is deep

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Once an understanding of the neighborhood, the

existing site and the home is attained, the most

fundamental aspect of adding on to an existing home

is the massing of the addition relative to the existing

home, its site and its neighborhood. Although zoning

ordinances may only regulate building setbacks from

the property lines, building to all the setback lines

usually results in a structure that is too big for the site,

• Gabled roof front stoop (6' deep x 8' wide)• One-story rear yard addition

• Gabled roof front stoop (8' deep x 16' wide)• Tandem garage and room addition

• Shed roof front porch (8' x 16')• Two-story bedroom addition• One-story rear addition

creates many rooms without exterior windows, and

leaves little open space for rear and side yards in

particular. Even though many additions cannot be

seen from the front (more specifi cally, the street and

sidewalk) it is important to be mindful of what your adjacent

neighbors look at either through their side windows or back

door, and how daylight and fresh air fl ow through their yards

as well as yours.

No longer than existing

home is deep

• Gabled roof front stoop (6' x 8')• Rear-yard addition• Add light wells

• Shed front porch (16' x 23')• Tandem garage and living space addition• Add light wells

• Combination gables/shed front porch (6' x 23')• One-and-a-half story rear-yard addition• Add light wells

Match slope of existing roof1 Match eave line2 Match existing size, shape and proportion of windows3Tips for all remodeling projects:

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M A S S I N G , P R O P O R T I O N A N D S C A L EG 0 2

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Space gabled dormers away

from end.

Double width of existing windows.

Width equal to or greater than widened dormers

Align with eave of front dormers

Center on windows

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Maintain garage door recess

Add column or brackets

Maintain some distance from corner of home to corner of porch

Align with dormer eavesAlign with exterior wall

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1 Matching gabled dormer on “ends” of house

Shed dormer infill between dormers

No wider than existing house is deep

Maintain garage door recess

Add column or brackets

Match front dormer

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Addition no longer than existing house is deep

No higher than

existing ridge.

Covered porch

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Addition no wider than existing house is deep

Addition no higher than

existing ridge.

3' x 5' egress light wells

with full height windows

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Maintain space between garage and

orking from the top down (that is, the

roof), these simple guidelines will allow

you to create a massing for additions that

will respect your neighbors while maximizing the

opportunities for windows and daylight.

The lot size and shape shown in these examples

are fairly common to these house types – leading

to the assumption that there is no room for

additions in the side yards, and that current zoning

regulations would not allow an encroachment into the front

yard setback except for an open air porch or stoop. W

• Gabled roof front stoop (4' x 7')• Widen front gable roof dormers• Shed dormer in rear

• Shed roof front porch (6' x 27')• Widen front garage roof dormer• Expand garage attic floor space• Rear gabled roof addition and shed dormer

• Gabled rood front porch (6' x 10')• Widened front gabled roof dormer• Expanded garage attic floor space• One-and-a-half story rear-yard addition• Rear gabled roof dormer and shed dormer infill

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Match existing roof slope

Align tops of windows and doors

Add horizontal mullions

Match eave line

Match windows in size shape and proportion

(Additon in background)

Provide slight recess from existing wall

Match existing roof slope

Match existing roof slope

3/4 high casement or hopper windows over kitchen counter

Recess new addition from existing house so that new eaves butt into side of home

• Add a front porch (with or without railing)• Add shutters• Add flower boxes• Replace windows

• Add rear addition

• Gabled/shed front proch• New front door with sidelights• Add shutters, new windows with muntins• One-story rear-yard addition• New door and matching window trim

New decorative brackets

Line up with windows below

Recess new addition from existing house so that new eaves match up

• Gabled front porch with bracketed eave• New front door and sidelights• Add shutters, new windows with muntins• Two-story rear-yard addition

nce the massing of the addition is determined

and fl oor plans laid out, it is important to

review the design cues from your neighborhood

and the existing home to create building elements

that are not only compatible but also enhance the

appearance found in the hidden qualities of its

structure. Much of this has to do with how the new

addition(s) relate to the existing house in terms of

height and shape, and then the size and placement of

doors and windows. For instance, columns should

look like columns — not fence posts or a pole barn

— using at a minimum size of 6' x 6's instead of

4' x 4's).

The goal can be simply stated: “Make it look like

it’s always been there and enhance the inherent

qualities of the existing house with quality materials

and details.”

As part of replacing exterior materials, consider the

longevity and durability of the existing materials

as well as possible replacement materials. One of

the valuable qualities of post-WWII housing is that

much of it contains high-quality materials such as

brick, hardwood fl oors and cedar siding.

Retaining these original high-quality materials

rather than replacing them with substandard

materials will reduce the long-term maintenance of

your home and increase its long-term value.

On the other hand there are also some post-WWII

materials which have not withstood the test of time

and need to be replaced as part of the renovation

process. In choosing replacement materials

consider short-term and long-term maintenance

issues along with cost. A good approach is to

think of using high-quality, durable materials as

an investment in the future. You will be able to

recapture your investment either through reduced

maintenance costs or in a higher resale value.

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F I R S T S U BU R B S C O A L I T I O N : U P DAT I N G P O S T- W O R L D W A R I I H O M E S

E X T E R I O R A P P E A R A N C EG 0 3

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Line up eaves

Add brackets

Light wells and taller windows

Match existing roof slope

Add windows on “garage” side for light and appearance.

Match existing windows scale, size, and proportion

Match existing roof slope

Add a decorative window

Align windows

Match existing roof slope

Match existing roof slope

Match existing roof slope

Match existing roof slope

Match existing wing window shape,size, proportion

Keep dormer at or below existing ridge line

Maintain existing roof line

Single-hung window allows daylight into garage without losing wall space or privacy

• Add a front shed porch• Add decorative brackets to second-story overhang• Add deep light wells to basement windows• Add one-story rear-yard addition• Add shutters, new windows, with muntins• New matching door and window trim

• Add a third story • Add a third story• Add a gabled front porch

Match existing roof slope

Match existing eave line

Match new front dormers

Align tops of windows

Match windows in size, shape, proportion

Provide at least single-hung windows into garage

Front gable dormer

Acceptable

Rear shed dormer (line up with front dormer)

Rear gabled dormer which matches front with shed roof in between

Rear shed addition (keep back from end wall same distance as front dormer)

Preferred

Less desirable

• Add a tandem garage with roof-top garden above• Expand garage attic for living space above

• Add gabled front porch• Add sidelight to front door• Widen front gabled dormers• Add new windows, trim

• Add a tandem garage with second floor above• Expand garage attic for living space above

• Add shed front porch (with or without railing)• Add double sidelight to front door• Widen front gabled dormers

W I N D O W S & D O O R SG 0 4

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USE SAME WINDOW & WINDOW PANE PROPORTION(Diagonal lines are same angle, or height/width = the same number)

First floorwindow

Second floorwindow

Bathroom window

First floorwindow

Second floorwindow

Bathroomwindow

Align all heads

Window head (flush or overhanging side frame)

Side frame

Window sill(Flush or extended beyond side frame

Align all heads

3 over 3 6 over 1 3 over 1 1 over 1

4 over 4 Awning Casement Two double-hungs “mulled” together

TYPICAL WINDOW MUNTIN PATTERNS

TYPICAL CLASSICAL WINDOW PROPORTIONS(Also contemporary)

Narrow trim or “brick mould”2-panel door

(flush head trim)

6-panel door

(overlapping head trim)

4-panel door

Match window pane proportion and size if possible.

Glass door with panel below (matching fixed sidelight)

TYPICAL TRADITIONAL PANELED DOORS (Style and rail with or without glass)

10-panel door

6-panel door

3-panel door

Full glass door

TYPICAL “CONTEMPORARY TRADITIONAL” PANELED DOORS(Style and rail with or without glass)

Typical double-hung

Typical awning window

Typical casement window

Two windows “mulled” together

USE SAME WINDOW PANE SIZE; VARY NUMBER OF PANES HORIZONTALLY

Traditional 6 over 6 muntin pattern

Window sill extends beyond side frame

Head trim flush or slightly overhanging side trim

Side frame same width as head

TRADITIONAL WINDOW TRIM SHAPES

ne of the most important elements in improving these post-

WWII homes is getting the details right. Whether the existing home

has window trim and mouldings, or the traditional styles found on some

Cape Cods, respecting the qualities of existing styles or enhancing them

with new windows and trim consistent with the original patterns of the

house is important. What follows are a few simple guidelines on how to

O develop windows and doors of consistent size, shape, and pattern to fi t

within the character and style of the existing house and neighborhood.

When developing window sizes and shapes for bedrooms, be

mindful of widths and heights required by building codes to provide

emergency fi re exits.

P r o p e r t y L i n e

Fr o n t - Ya r d S e t b a c k

R e a r - Ya r d S e t b a c k

U t i l i t y E a s e m e n t

P r o p e r t y L i n e

R e a r S e m i -D e t a c h e d

R e a r A t t a c h e dS t r e e t - S i d e Ta n d e mS i d e E x p a n s i o nFr o n t A t t a c h e d R e a r D e t a c h e dw i t h C a r p o r t

R e a r D e t a c h e d w i t h A l l e y

R e a r D e t a c h e d w i t h S h a r e d D r i v e w a y

R e a r D e t a c h e d w i t h F r o n t D r i v e w a y

A D D R E S S I N G T W O - C A R G A R A G E I S S U E SG 0 5

common problem with the post-WWII house

types is the modern expectation of a two- or

three-car garage. Many were built with one-car garages,

if any, and little or no room on the side to add a second

“side-by-side” stall. Several solutions address that

problem in varying ways to meet your needs.

Garage additions should comply with zoning setback

requirements, be appropriate to your own house and

backyard, and be respectful to the neighborhood.

Garage doors should be set back from the main house

façade, where possible, and should be proportionate to

the existing house. In many cases, using two single-

doors with exterior trim or siding between them, instead

of one double door is recommended. Three-car garages

are most likely disproportionately large to the rest of the

house, rear yards, and adjacent lots.

D E TA C H E D O P T I O N SG 0 5 C C

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