Module 1: Selecting and purchasing dairy goats

They will provide your family with:

-Fresh milk daily to drink, make cheese, yogurt,

cultured buttermilk and other dairy products.

-Use milk to make soap and other body care

products.

-Land clearing and brush control.

-Extra income selling goat kids.

-Love and friendship.

-Dairy goats can be kept on smaller parcels of land and less desirable

pastures (they prefer weeds anyway).

-Housing need not be elaborate or expensive, though good fences are

critical.

-They are cold hardy.

-They are selective eaters, good at avoiding poison plants.

-With proper care, they have good disease resistance.

-They are easier to handle than large dairy cows.

-They are less expensive than dairy cows.

-May offer more productive years in-milk than dairy cows.

What breed should I buy?

All dairy breeds have pros to consider based on your

space, goals and preference.

-Nubian milk has more milk fat, great for making butter

and cheese.

-Saanen produce the most milk.

-Nigerian Dwarf is left off this infographic for some rea-

son. They are a cute, compact breed that are less than 2

feet tall and weigh less than 100lbs. Great for small spac-

es.

-Cross breeds tend to have better disease resistance. They

also tend to be less expensive.

-Keep in mind that if you don’t plan to keep a buck or use

artificial insemination to service your does, you may want

to base your breed decision on what breed of bucks are

available for service in your area. I choose Alpines be-

cause I have access to high quality Alpine bucks and a

good market to sell 100% registered Alpine kids.

-In-milk. You will pay more for a goat in-milk. Proven milk production test results will increase

price further, $300+.

-Freshly weaned (around 2 mo old) kid. You will pay less for a just-weaned goat because the

farmer hasn’t put a lot of time or money into the kid, $50-150.

-Yearling. A yearling doe has not been bred or produced milk. They cost less than a doe in-milk

and more than a freshly weaned kid, $150-300.

-Registered goats cost more. These are typically pure breeds with desirable bloodlines. These

goats come with papers, $300+.

-Bred. You’ll pay more for a bred goat, because you’re basically getting two, $300+.

-Cross breeds. You’ll pay less for a cross that is considered “grade”, $100-200.

-Time of year. April-June my farm is flooded with just-weaned kids; it a great time to buy for

best selection. Goat also tend to be more expensive this peak time of year.

-Male vs female. In the dairy world a breeding buck with good bloodlines costs more than a

milking doe. Expect to pay $500+ for a breeding buck. A wether (castrated buck) costs much

less, they don’t breed, but can help control brush.

-If the doe is in-milk, look for a full and even udder. The teats should be a good

fit with your hand for efficient milking.

-If the doe is not in-milk, look for square rear legs with plenty of room for ud-

der to develop.

-Goats should look healthy. Tails erect, strong legs, not wasting.

-Hooves should be hard, trimmed neat. Toes pointed straight.

-Avoid goats with swollen joints.

-Doe width to hip measurement of 8+ for easy kidding.

-“Fat” goats may indicate problems. Bloat could simply be from hay, or point to

more serious health issues. “Thin” goats may be young or may have parasites.

Look for solid poops around the farm. No runny discharges or goopy noses.

- Clean bill of health. The farmer should provide you with vaccination history.

-A buck should look strong, stoic and majestic.