czech republic....the strong and silent type
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Czech Republic 2008The tragedy of modern man is not that he knows less and less about the meaning of his own life,
but that it bothers him less and less.-Vaclav Havel (Czech playright and former-President)
Tuesday, June 17th Marinsk Lzn11:12 pmThe first day without a camera..... and I felt totally lost, without purpose!
Due to a comedy of errors and perhaps travel fatigue, mostly on my part,
two cameras and one camcorder were out of action today. Marc saved the
day with his television camera fully prepared for battle. The good part of
this debacle was that Reese and I were able to fully enjoy the spa and
charming village experience. Thermal baths have been the main event of
this area ever since King Charles IV established it as his personal
playground in the early 1800s.
My growing unease at not meeting real Czechs on a more personal
level led me to a conversation with a young lady named Therese.
She explained my situation by declaring, naturally, Czechs are very
shy people. Now I know much better how to approach them,
using my experience with Scandinavians. Both cultures are much
more relaxed if you make the first move, provided your dialog is not
too awkward, which will only provoke more embarrassment and silence on their part!
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Thursday, June 19 Plze8:03 am
Famous for its Pilsen beer, were starting to feel off thebeaten tourist path for the first time. American tourists
tend to be cautious travelers and
congregate around the more
familiar big attractions found in
Rome, Paris, Prague and
London. Anywhere Rick Steves
recommends you can also find
copious Americans with their
guide books in hand. Germans, on
the other hand, seem smitten with
extreme wanderlust and can be
found in virtually any o&eat nook and cranny aroundthe globe, often traveling solo or in pairs.
Pilsen (Plze in Czech) is saturated with real Czechpeople going about their daily lives.... an amazing find
after three tourist towns. The film crew initially found
this to be a drab working-class town with anonymouspeople working out their post-communist lives. Mostbuildings and streets are dirty and the fashions seem to
be about ten years behind. This impression quickly
faded as we got below the surface and started meeting
real people. They are wonderfully genuine, not jaded by
the incessant flow of tourism like we experienced in
Prague. Cultural observation is virtually impossible
with the tourism facade whitewashing real people with
all their personal triumphs and struggles.
After hunting down a ball and field, Reese and Adam
played soccer with several Czech 20 year olds waiting
for a rock concert. I joined about 45 minutes later and
one guy commented that Im a little drunk and a little
high and told me about drinking a lot of beer with twoguys from Texas last week. None of the Czechs had
spoken English until this point, so Reese and Adam
were surprised when this guy opened up. My theory is
that I was old enough to be less of a threat, especially
with a girl watching the game.
Immersing and losing oneself into a new culture can be
a rewarding experience. My thought: just do it!
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Friday, June 20th esk Krumlov1:16 pm
45 minutes to show time. We are filming the 13th century village ofeskKrumlov, much beloved for its generous people, lively festivals, Gothic and
Renaissance stone houses, which are preserved to this day. We just met an
older gentleman who told us of his experience 40 years ago, when Soviet
tanks rolled into the historic square. He said the locals started playing
Czech national anthems as a form of passive resistance to the Warsaw Pact
nations crushing their Prague Uprising. One guy died by lighting himselfon fire to protest the return of Communist hard-line instead of democracy.
Monday, June 23rdesk Krumlov8:15 am
A short time until departure to yet another undiscovered region, and the tale of this place must be
told. My historic frustration with tourist attractions reached critical mass Saturday night. The film
team had worked tirelessly for two days, carrying gear up and down the hot cobblestone streets,
stopping at various attractions to capture the medieval moments in high definition. Jugglers and
actors, blacksmiths and craftsmen, Lords and Ladies, knights and jesters, all swimming in a sea of
tourists. After a point, this became visual overload - I needed more, something real, a personalconnection. No sooner had made this honest assessment when a funny looking dog appeared,
looking like a Star Wars Yoda with long ears protruding from the side of her head. I stopped my
frenetic pursuit of the perfect camera angle for a moment to pet the dog and soon found myself
engaged in a lively and lighthearted conversation with one guy and four girls in their mid-20s.
cultural communion = celebrating the diferences
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8:33 am
Right in the middle of the town square, five beautiful Czech people sat down on the dirty, worn
cobblestones and we all pursued a lively discussion. They were all dressed in the manner of the
medieval commoner, or working class, very comfortable, loose fitting clothing, prepared for work or
play. What struck me was their presence - all were very much in the moment, not looking bored ordistracted by the thousands of people and vendors traipsing through the square. Soon, my film team
wondered offto the next attraction. As usual, they believed me to be offto parts-unknown as myrole operating the B camera was to wander, capturing images the big TV camera missed.
I stayed on the square, time passing effortlessly, as if caught in a time machine on fast forward.Petra entertained us with her female dog, called Charlie, using a Czech accent, of course. Soon,
Martina produced a bottle of local mead and all communally passed the bottle around the circle.
Ludik joined Petra with antics reminding me of a Charlie Chaplin, Stan Laurel or Oliver Hardy and
peals of laughter resounded for perhaps an hour. Our revery was sharply interrupted by the local
craftsman - we had been sitting in front of his booth, scaring his customers away! We soon resumedanother hour of conversation until my Puritan work ethic nudged me to move on. All kissed heartily
and parted as warm friends.
Its 9am and the trumpet is sounding. Villagers awake! For me, there is more to tell regarding my
Fabulous Five: Petra, Petra, Petra, Martina and Ludik with special mention Charlie, theextraterrestrial canine. Since my old-world village apartment has only one key and three lockeddoors prior to entrance, I found myself waiting on the street for Reese to return with the team.
After perhaps a long hour of waiting and people watching it wasnt my team that showed up, rather
to my delight it was the Fab Five and Charlie! To make a long story longer, we then spent the next
seven hours together laughing, dancing and singing our way through town events until I walked them
to their car at 2:30 am. We bidadieu and they gathered gear for sleeping under the stars. My perfect
bohemian evening came to a close while embracing pillow and describing the events to Reese.
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Czech Republic in ReviewPatience brings roses. - Czech Proverb
Karlovy Vary(aka Carlsbad)
the largest spa town in Bohemia:
.... remains a quaint, picturesque village currently
famous for its medicinal mineral springs and an
appearance on the latest Bond movie, Casino Royale.
The gambling scene is filmed at Grandhotel Pupp,
pronounced poop, to the chuckle of most English
speakers. Unfortunately for the more active in our
group, most the people here are in the over-60 crowd.Our man-child guide of 19 franklyexplained why would I go here,
Im not sick. Ironic that he wasprovided by the tourism office!
Marinsk Lzn
This is THE town for rest and
relaxation. Famous for its cold
healing waters, this town has hosted such luminary
figures as Goethe, Wagner, Chopin and Freud. After
interviewing and filming at the most historic and
exclusive spa, the crew were treated to individual
massages and full access to the healing waters..... can
you say aahhhhh!
Tuesday, June 25 Brno5:49 am
Arrived in this working class scenic town last night.
We are staying at International Best Western, which
Marc and I agree was built in the communist era.
Stalinist architecture can be best described as
nondescript with absolutely no aesthetic value orfeatures that would be considered attractive. Drab,
grey, square, lifeless..... does that sum it up? Many of
these blots on the landscape seem to have been
destroyed or received and extreme makeover since the
fall of communism almost two decades ago. Now, the
crown jewels of this beautiful country can shine
unblemished - medieval churches, castles, villages,bridges harkening to an inspired bygone era.
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Thursday, June 26th Brno6:41 pm
Not everyone welcomed us with open arms. Some welcomed us with the one finger salute!
Apparently, Czech TV was not kind to someone working at the market.
Several workers were upset and tried to shout us out. Funny thing was,
we were not even there to film the market - the crew was passing throughto find scenic shots of the town.
Actually, the people in this town, like every other town, were exceptionally
nice once you took the time to say hello and exchange pleasantries. Most
are very concerned about Brno being left offthe tourist map even thoughits the second largest city in Czech Republic. International darling, Prague,
takes front stage center for almost every venue, so our show featuring undiscovered cultural gems
resonated with our hosts, especially in Moravia, which is in some respects the country cousin to
more cosmopolitan Bohemia.
Sunday, June 29 Strnice8:58 am
Just concluded an amazing weekend festival of wine, women and song. 15,000 strong patrons of thefolk arts celebrated tradition and libation. Alcohol flowed freely via local beers with up to 11%alcohol and an assortment of specialty 50% liquors made from plumbs and pears. Many of theyounger folks drank to incapacity, staggering blindly through the lush, green castle grounds.
One story told of the mistress of the castle frequenting the local winery upon her husbands absence.
The wine flowed and she soon fell in love with a worker, bearing a bastard son. Many believe her
spirit still protects the wine 300 years after her death, offering supporting evidence to prove it.
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Hope is not the conviction that something wi)turn out we)but the certainty that something makes sense, regardless of how
it turns out-VlacavHavel
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