cwt 41 fall/winter 2013-14 issue

TravellerW O R L D

TravellerW O R L D

C A N A D I A N

Already

Ten

Years!

Come With Us And See The World!

Fall/Winter 2013-14

V e n i c e

S p l i t

D u b r o v n i k

Pa r g a

I t e a

D e l o s

M y k o n o s

D i k i l i

I s t a n b u l

M a r s e i l l e

D u b a i

C a m e r o o n

N e w Z e a l a n d

N e p a l

B o l i v i a

A word

from the editors

Published by

Canadian World

Traveller

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Publisher Michael MorcosEditor-in-chief Greg JamesGraphic Artist Al CheongAdvertising Leo SantiniMarketing Tania TassoneDistribution Royce DillonContributors Natalie Ayotte

Habeeb SalloumAmar Bahadur ShresthaRuth AtherleyA. M. MacloughlinSteven Sanders

Front Cover Photo by Michael Morcos:Cathedral of Saint Domnius Tower, Split, Croatia

Disclaimer: Canadian World Traveller has made everyeffort to verify that the information provided in thispublication is as accurate as possible. However, weaccept no responsibility for any loss, injury, or incon-venience sustained by anyone resulting from the infor-mation contained herein nor for any information pro-vided by our advertisers.

Welcome to the Fall/Winter 2013

Issue of Canadian World

Traveller, which is being distrib-

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In this issue we discover the beautifulMediterranean aboard Ponant Cruises’

super-yacht L’Austral. We start our trip withwindow shopping in magnificent Venicebefore visiting the charming Croatian townsof Split and Dubrovnik. We then set sail forthe less travelled coastal cities of Parga, Iteaand Delos and finish our Greek odyssey inMykonos. Our cruise then continues toTurkey. First we explore the quiet town ofDikili before ending our grand voyage inthe intriguing world-class city of Istanbul.

On the other side of the Mediterraneanwe discover postcard-perfect Marseillebefore returning back to Asia to visit exoticDubai.

Our trip then brings us south to visitCameroon which truly has ‘All Africa in OneCountry’. Our next stop is to the top of theworld as we explore mysterious Nepal.

We continue our journey by goingdown under (the equator). First we travel toparticipate in what is uniquely New Zealandbefore scaling new heights in Bolivia.

Happy Travels!

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Tel.: 514-933-3302 - Fax : 514-933-8311Toll-free : 1-888-359-9355 - Email : [email protected]

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Canadian World Traveller Fall / Winter 2013-14

Office National du Tourisme Tunisien1155, Rue University, Suite 1014 Montreal , QC H3B 3A7Tél. : (514) 397-1182Email : [email protected] Web : www.tourismtunisia.com

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W i n d o w S h o p p i n g i n V e n i c e

Split First Port of Call

Dubrovnik The Pearl of the Adriatic Exotic Dubai

From the Traditional to the Ultra-Modern

Nepal At The Top of the World

C W T C o n t e n t s

M e d i t e r r a n e a n C r u i s e

Aboard L'Austral

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The Unspoiled City of Parga

Itea Between the Sea and mountains

Delos The Sanctuary of Apollo

Mykonos The Heart of the Cyclades

Dikili Natural Beauty and History

Istanbul

the Crossroads of Europe and Asia

Postcards from Sunny Marseilles

Cameroon All Africa in one Country

Top Five Things You Can Only Do In

New Zealand

Bolivia Landlocked and Lush

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V e n i c e S p l i t D u b r o v n i k Pa r g a I t e a D e l o s M y k o n o s

M e d i t e r r a n

Aboard L'Austral

by Michael Morcos and Natalie Ayotte

Canadian World Traveller Fall / Winter 2013-14See Mediterranean Cruise on page 10

As the European summer draws to a close,the thoughts of many living on the old conti-nent are of the back to school rush and thelooming Christmas period. The crowds fromaround the world disperse, and while mostof Europe begins to wrap up the southerncountries enjoy a late burst of sun likenowhere else. The Mediterranean shimmersto a different light whilst the shadows of thepicturesque houses along the Adriatic leanfurther and further away. Romantic isEurope’s forte, and Southern Europe inSeptember and October is perfect getaway,where one can witness the slow pace of thecontinent that few tourists see.

You can travel across Europe by any meanswithout much difficulties – train passes arereasonably priced and even road trips aremade easier by the lack of borders betweencountries. Therefore Europe overland hasbeen the rage for some time. To try some-thing different, I chose the sea option.

Cruise liners have been shaking up theirpackages since the drop in figures after the2008/2009 recession, and Compagnie duPonant – based in Marseille, France – is nowrunning a four strong fleet of luxury vesselswhich are much more resembling to a luxuryyacht than a cruise ship. Founded in 1988,the cruise line company is now worldwideand has been the talk of the industry inEurope after significantly raising the stan-dards of what one can expect.

The company mainly caters to the Frenchand European market, although there is agrowing interest from North America andbeyond. French cuisine is the name of game,and Compagnie du Ponet sure know how todo this well. The array of options on themenu made me wish I had more time, assome of the dishes just provoke a secondand third tasting throughout the trip. Theatmosphere is relaxed and caters for thoselooking for space, personalized service, andsocializing only when desired. Pricing is allinclusive, and includes all meals, open barsand fully stocked mini bars, 24 hour roomservice and all port charges and taxes,allowing the company to remove any addedinconveniences that may arise when onesimply just wants to enjoy. Cruises departfrom various cities throughout Europe, and Iwas embarking from one of the continentsclassics.

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D i k i l i I s t a n b u l

e a n C r u i s e

www.ponant.com

www.canadianworldtraveller.com

Our boat departed from northern Italy inbeautiful Venice, where we arrived fourdays prior in order to wander the maze-like streets with little rush. Venice is acharm and always entices me back, andSeptember is an ideal time to visit. Ourbags were already packed and ready forthe cruise, so while Venice wasn’t aboutstocking up on souvenirs before our triphad even begun, one simply can’t helpbut peer through the windows of the end-less boutique stores that squeeze them-selves into the narrow alleys and streetswherever they can fit. Stores offer Venetianmasks, hand printed fabrics, glass beadsand Venetian handicrafts ranging fromminiature gondolas to replicas of thePiazza San Marco – I had accidently mademy stay in Venice a window shoppingexpedition, with sudden space in the suit-case for one or two memories to be takenaway.

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In Venice it’s always a good idea to famil-iarize yourself with the Grand Canal andPiazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square). Themaze of streets in between can becomeconfusing, however there are arrows onmost street corners which guide you to atleast one of the two locations mentioned.

After a night’s sleep we took a Gondolaride to soak up the magic. I requested thatthe Gondolier steer us through the sleepy,narrow streets instead of galloping alongthe Grand Canal, which is beautiful fromnorth to south, but can become a wasteunless a turn is made into the alleys.

From there on Venice is just magic, andremarkably quiet. One of my biggestadvices for Venice is – after seeing themain touristic sites – simply allowing your-self to get lost. Take a map – or maybenot – and simply wander deeper and

deeper into the streets, away from theGrand Canal and Main Square, and enjoyVenice to yourself. Even during the highsummer season, you can find staggeringlyquiet corners of the city, where echoingfootsteps can be heard amongst the gen-tle splashes of water against the old hous-es.

After enjoying Venice in a different light, itwas time to set off.

W i n d o w S h o p p i n g

Mediterranean CruiseSee Mediterranean Cruise on page 12

Air France has daily flights to Venice fromFrance and departures from majorCanadian cities. Air France and theSkyTeam Alliance offer 15,000 daily flightsto 1,024 destinations in 178 countries andconnections from the best hubs in theworld. www.airfrance.com


i n V e n i c e

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With a population of less than 200,000,one of my first questions after discoveringthe tranquil seaside city of Split was whymore people hadn’t made Croatia’s sec-ond largest city a more permanent base.With a wonderful climate reaching almost3,000 sunlight hours a year, locals havelong hailed Split as the world’s mostbeautiful city. Along with the welcomingweather, history buffs will be thrilled bywhat remains of the past eras, asPharaonic Egypt, Ancient Rome, theRenaissance and the present exist side byside in perfect harmony.

Arriving to the city by water is majestic inits own right, but arriving in the late sum-mer made disembarking even more spe-cial. I was pleasantly surprised by Splitfrom the first minute. A museum in itself,the city is a UNESCO World Heritage siteand home to Diocletian’s famous Palace.Built in the 4th century AD, the historiccenter of Split is built around the ruins ofthis Roman Palace. Wander around thenarrow streets within the ruins, follow thesigns at the end of each passageway andmix with the locals in the courtyards –some of them packed, others deserted

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and mysterious, while narrow streets lead-ing into the shadows invite the daring.Peristil Square is the main square of thepalace, and can be used as a meetingpoint to gather ones bearings.

Diocletian’s famous Palace serves as theheartbeat of Split, however away from thisthere were a few treasures to take inbefore leaving. Split is home to two origi-nal Egyptian sphinxes, imported fromEgypt by Diocletian. One is housed in theaforementioned main square of thepalace, while the other can be found in St.John’s Church.

Riva is the city’s main promenade, and forthose looking for a taste of nature, headto the hill of Marjan, situated to the westof the city. Perfect for relaxed walking, jog-ging and biking, Marjan means ‘the lungsof the city’ and building work in the areais strictly forbidden. A panoramic view ofthe city waits at the hills moderate summitof 174 m.

Split is perfectly sized for boat cruises. Ofcourse, one could spend many days hereexploring, however the city is smallenough to be taken in quickly. What is forcertain is that the taste I got for Split hasmade ensured I will be returning with amore open schedule in the future.

C r o

Split First Port of Call


After a calm, overnight sailing a little furtherdown the Adriatic, we arrived in the aestheti-cally pleasing city of Dubrovnik. Knownthroughout the world as the Pearl of theAdriatic, this walled city built on a rock haspreserved its Gothic, Renaissance andBaroque heritage despite a damaging earth-quake in 1667. Palaces, monuments andwhite stone churches take you on a journeythrough the various periods and are in per-fect harmony. Long considered as a rival toVenice, traces of its illustrious past are to befound throughout the city, which is also aUNESCO World Heritage site.

I had a Sunday morning and afternoon todiscover some of the city’s highlights, andbegan by exploring the city walls on foot,said to be the finest preserved city walls inthe world. Built in 13th and 14th centuries toprotect the city from attacks, walkingamongst the walls – some of which are 25 mhigh – to the Minčeta Tower will prove to bea highlight of your trip.

Pile gate - the city’s wonderfully craftedentrance point - is where many start theirexploration of the city, and crossing thedrawbridge is a must for any visitor. Otherpoints of interest should include a visit to theFranciscan Monastery and Museum and the15th century Rector’s Palace.

I finished the day by heading up to Mt Srđby cable car, where one can gaze in awe ata city blessed with remarkable beauty, bothnaturally and man-made. Viewing the earlyevening sun over Adriatic is a perfect way toend any day in one of Europe’s most beauti-ful cities.

Dubrovnik The Pearl of the Adriatic

a t i a

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See Mediterranean Cruise on page 14

In the heart of a sheltered cove on thenorth western shores of Greece in theEpirus province, Parga was Venetian fromthe 15th to the end of the 18th century.During that period it belonged to AliPacha, a high official of Suleiman theMagnificent. Its imposing Venetian citadelbuilt on a steep rocky promontory domi-nates the town, the port and the sweetsmelling pines which surround it. Today itis a lovely seaside resort, crammedbetween mountains and shimmeringwaters and buzzing with high spiritedlocals who dock their boats along the baywhilst the seaside bars, tavernas andrestaurants are awash with conversationand local music.

With tourism only just beginning to spreadto Parga, the city feels completely Greek,the locals are friendlier and crowds arenot a problem – yet.

With an afternoon to discover the city’scharming cobbled streets, I set off to theAli Pasha Castle, which is a short 20minute bus ride from the town center. Theviews from the top are worth the ride andthe ruins of the castle are there to be

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explored. Those who have no problemswith walking can hike back down to thecenter, which is all downhill and is just 4km long. Nearby, the old Greek Fortress,built in the 14th century is also worth avisit. The fortress guarantees spectacularvistas of the city and the nearby beaches,whilst keeping in touch with the history ofthe region.

Back in the city, Parga is buzzing with locallife, and I spent an hour with some appe-tizers admiring the view of the waters,before boarding our ship for the night.The nearby beaches of Valtos and Lichnosare magnificent, almost to the point wherethey are underplayed and under promot-ed, however the city is still catering forlocals only who don’t need signs and tourguides – something the modern travelertakes great pride in discovering.

G r e e c

The Unspoiled City of Parga


Located at the base of Mount Parnassos, thequiet seaside town of Itea is one of thosetowns that has convenient access to both seaand mountains. A local hinted that duringthe autumn, one can ski in the morning andbe back on the beach by the afternoon.During the summer however, locals andtourists alike get their outdoors fix bytrekking throughout the nearby hills andmountains, which are full of history them-selves. Mount Parnassos is mentioned severaltimes in Greek mythology, and is said tohouse the cave of the Greek God Pan, aswell as the hiding place of the PrinceOrestes, who was fleeing from the Erinyesafter he avenged his father’s murder bykilling his own mother.

The highlight of any visit to From Itea is sure-ly the Delphi Valley, which doubles as anarcheological site and modern town. Locatedon the other side of Mount Parnassos, weenter the immaculately preserved sacred sitewhilst clinging to the side of the mountainare the white ruins of Apollo’s famous sanc-tuary which rise up out of the pines. WhileApollo was born on the Island of Delos,Delphi was his home.

A grandiose impressive work of art linkingthe Ionian and Aegean seas, the CorinthCanal is the fruit of a dream dating back toancient times. The emperor Nero had at onetime envisaged its creation. Also wort a visitis the Stadium of Delphi, said to be the mostpreserved stadium in ancient Greece, andbuilt for the Pythian Games which took placeevery four years in honor of Apollo.

Itea Between the Sea and mountains

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With zero habitants and very little shade,the bright and tiny island of Delos –meaning ‘brilliant’ - has long been con-sidered as one of the most importantmythological, historical and archaeologi-cal sites in Greece. The island was once athriving port and by 100 BC it hadbecome the financial and trading centerof the Mediterranean, and filled with mar-ble statues and temples representing vari-ous Greek Gods, while the populationrose to 30,000 as workers and familiesflocked from Rome, Egypt and Syria,establishing a harmonious culture formany years before several attacks andinvasions practically wiped out the popula-tion.

After many attempts to protect and stabi-lize life on the Island, Delos became unin-habited by the 18th century, a state inwhich it remains today - however it’sintrigue and historical importance are rea-son enough to visit. Upon arrival, Agoraof the Competialists (150 BC) is normallythe first ruins travelers encounter. Meaning‘the gathering place’, this open yard iswhere locals and market traders haggledat the stores set up by Roman citizens and

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newly free slaves. At the center of thesquare remain two large shrines, built anddedicated to Hermes and his motherMaia.

To the left of the Agora one can find theSacred Way, which leads to The Sanctuaryof Apollo. The paved road is still dottedwith marble bases that once housed thestatues given to the island by local kingsand generals. Whilst little remains of thethree great temples which make up theSanctuary of Apollo, it is still the mostimportant site for visitors today.

More inland, I browsed through a selec-tion of impressive artifacts and variousstatues at the site museum, which includesthe several statues of Artemis which werefound in the Temple of Artemis, to befound on the north of the sanctuary.

As the island of Delos covers just 5 sq.km, it can certainly be explored in anafternoon or morning stop over. We spentthe morning here before the short 2 kmboat trip to the queen of the Cyclades.

G r e e

Delos The Sanctuary of Apollo


With its white mills and quaint little portwhere boats bob lazily at the foot of theterraces, Mykonos never fails to inspire.Upon arrival I could swear I was lookingat a classic postcard from Greece. Afterwandering the island’s labyrinth of white-washed alleyways I was surprised by manythings on an island that is famed for itsnightlife. While the center of the maintown – also called Mykonos – can be loudat night, the majority of the island issleepy and romantic. One of the mostromantic spots is the colorful “LittleVenice” district where the houses are builtright on the sea giving it a specialambiance – it’s also known as one of thebest sunset spots on the city. Let yourselfbe tempted by the numerous tavernswhich line its seafront opposite the oldport.

I headed up to the looming windmillswhich can be seen peering over the lowerhills upon arrival. Along with the typicalarchitecture they are one of the most rec-ognized images of Mykonos, and weremore impressive than I imagined up closewith their well-preserved ice white coating.Built in the 16th century, the windmillshave been an iconic image of Mykonosever since due to the islands year roundwind combined with its ideal location.Their importance however did begin todecline with the improvements in technol-ogy since the First World War. From hereyou can also take in a beautiful view ofLittle Venice.

I just about made it to Archaeological

Mykonos The Heart of the Cyclades

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Museum of Mykonos before it closed,which houses an impressive collection ofeveryday items from 25th-1st century BC,before exploring the nearby MykonosTown Hall.

Away from the island’s main town, AnoMera Village is worth a visit and is located8 km from Mykonos town. Ano Mera isthe most populated town on the islandand offers an authentic experience of lifeon this enchanting island. Locals take theirtime arriving to work; local bakers catchup with friends on the street corner whilstoffice workers discuss the latest news withtaxi drivers who are in no rush to drive offfor their next ride.

I opted for Sunset at Paraportiani, avoid-ing the crowds at Little Venice and takinga more private view form one of the mostphotographed spots on the island.Mykonos is an island to salver, to sit backand enjoy, to people watch and to feel theisland life from the local’s point of view.

A small and peaceful port on the shoresof the Aegean, Dikili has retained its pic-turesque charm. The town’s center is linedwith pine trees, old cobbled streets andcute restaurants, bars and tea shops,whilst children playing on the roughbeaches have seemingly more space towander than they would in the moretouristy parts of the country. A hot spot forTurks looking for a quiet vacation spot, yetstill relatively undiscovered by the masses,Dikili is beginning to grow fast; apartmentbuildings are rising out of the hills whileboutique hotels and villas are becomingpopular business.

In and around the town Dikili shares anintense mix of natural beauty and history.A simple drive around the town’s outskirtsoffers breathtaking views unrivaledthroughout the country. The nearby ther-mal springs are a great draw along withthe Crater Lake in Merdivenli village, whilethe unexplored site of Atarneus offerspotential ancient findings dating back toprehistory.

From here we head out to explorePergamum, one of Turkey’s finest archae-

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ological sites, not just because of themany and varied ruins but also for itssplendid hilltop location. At one time aserious rival to Athens, Alexandria andRome, Pergamum’s library was the secondlargest in the ancient world and offers visi-tors the rich heritage of its architecture inan intimate setting. The Book of Revelationmentions Pergamum as housing theThrone of Satan, and the city it once was,was regarded as one of the eeriest citiesin the Roman Empire.

Back in the center of town, a stop off theMerkez Mosque is worth the visit, andoffers the chance to see a scarce exampleof wooden architecture dating back to the1700s.

T u r

Dikili Natural Beauty and History


The crossroads between Europe and Asia,where east meets west; Istanbul’s locationbetween the continents spawns new nick-names on a seemingly annual basis. Wefinished our cruise here, which only led toanother adventure that very few cities canoffer. Istanbul is just one of the many sidesto Turkey, and goes against the grain towhat can be expected in most parts of thecountry. After a relaxing cruise I knew trav-eler within me would want something tosink its teeth into, and a few days inIstanbul provided the perfect finish.

Whilst the capital status belongs toAnkara, Istanbul is Turkey’s largest cityand also one of the world’s largest basedon both size and population, with around14 million people residing here. Thesounds of mopeds and scooters battlingwith the frustrated traffic is a 24 houraffair, the smells of herbs and spices beingcooked up on the streets and in thebazaars sizzles through the night and thepeople work hard yet party even harder assocializing and family outings are com-mon sites amongst the locals. New Yorkhas the nickname of the city that doesn’tsleep, despite the fact that most establish-

Istanbul the Crossroads of Europe and Asia

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ments are closed at 2:00am. At 2:00amin Istanbul the night is still young, if it evenages. Istanbul quite simply doesn’t sleep.

A brief description of Istanbul could leavemany observers pondering. In a city socrowded, how is the safety? Hygiene?Crime? All of these points spring to mindwhen a booming metropolis catches theeye. It is safe to say that Turkey’s largestcity is an exception to the rule. Istanbul isfilled with people all day and all night,that’s for sure. The people however areamongst the many bright spots this cityhas to offer. With a thirst for a happy life,quality service, family and friend’s timeand plain old talking, the people ofIstanbul embrace and give back, and asociable tourist can find himself swappingcontacts details several times during ashort trip.

We stayed at the Premist Hotel in OldIstanbul, which proved to be a perfectlocation and close to almost everything inthe city. We were greeted by immaculatelydressed porters and soothing mannerisms

www.canadianworldtraveller.com

which dissolve the heat and the outsideworld. After studying the city beforehand Idecided that once rested, I wanted tohead straight to Hagia Sophia, alsoknown as the Church of the Holy Wisdom,and acknowledged worldwide as one ofthe world’s truly great buildings. Rebuiltbetween 532 and 537 after a destructionand fire destroyed the original two respec-tively, Hagia Sophia originally dates backto the 4th century, and is regarded as oneof the best remaining examples ofByzantine architecture found today.

The churches principle dome is held onpendentives:, each of which is intricatelydecorated. The domes incredible weightgoes through the pendentives and ontofour huge piers at each corner, whichallows for the dome to seemingly float ontop of the four arches. Hagia Sophia is aninspiring place which one could visit timeand time again to immerse themselves in

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the history of the changes the structurehas endured.

Heading across the park to the nearbySultan Ahmed Mosque, more commonlyalbeit unofficially known as the BlueMosque, Istanbul offers another view ofthe city’s grand history. It was built to rivalthe Hagia Sophia, and its blue tiles fromwhich the mosque gained its unofficialname sharply contrast against the whitemarble, whilst the blue tips of the sixminarets stand out above and beyond,piercing the clouds. The buildings inchperfect proportions can be viewed frominside the courtyard when entering fromthe Hippodrome. The interior is arguablyovershadowed by that of Hagia Sophia,however the tinted windows do create awonderful effect throughout the roomwhile the tiles that run along the walls areone of the standout points from the inside.

For those looking to delve deeper intoIstanbul’s intriguing history, look no furtherthan Topkapi Palace museum, which washome to the Ottoman Sultans for 400years. Here you can view the magnificentcourtyards – two of which were exclusiveto royalty and VIP’s only - and learn of theendless and balmy stories that surroundedthe rulers. The Istanbul ArchaeologyMuseum which sits behind Topkapi Palacecan – and should - be visited on the sameday. Around three to five hours is sufficientto cover the two depending on your inter-ests. The Archaeology Museum is threemuseums in one complex: TheArchaeological Museum (in the mainbuilding), the Museum of the AncientOrient and the Museum of Islamic Art. Allthree are worth your time and we spent afew hours exploring the vast array of ofTurkish, Hellenistic and Roman artifacts,

I s ta n

Mediterranean CruiseSee Mediterranean Cruise on page 22


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including Glazed tile images from theIshtar Gate of Babylon, 800,000 Ottomancoins, seals, decorations and medals, aswell as the Statue of Alexander the Great.

Those going to Turkey will no doubt haveheard of the famous Turkish Delight, asweet treat which is made by mixinghoney and grape molasses together withsome little flour, beet sugar and alsostarch, to create a soft jelly like texturewhich is covered in various shells includ-ing walnuts, pistachio and coconut. Weheaded to the oldest Turkish Delightmaker in the city, Haci Bekir, who havebeen producing the famous sweet for 5generations since 1777. The store is still inthe exact location and building it waswhen Bekir Affendi opened the doors overtwo hundred years ago. Here one can notonly buy and taste this local treat, but alsolearn how to make it. Whlst my effortsdidn’t match that of the experts, we cameaway with great memories, souvenirs forthe family and a sugar hit to help usmarch on through this wonderful city.

We rounded off a long day with a won-derful meal in the Fenerbahce district ofthe city. With fantastic views along themarina we encountered Divan restaurant,one of Istanbul’s most highly regardedrestaurants. Offering fine international cui-sine and well renowned for its service, it’sdifficult to find a disappointed punter inthe house, as Divan serves up nothing lessthan the freshest produce and arguablethe best restaurant view in the city.

A late night stroll around the very touristybut nevertheless entertaining TaksimSquare didn’t disappoint, which is a hugeplaza surrounded by shops, bars and

restaurants and hotels. The square is apopular location for public celebrationsand events like New Year’s Eve, and isnear to the second oldest subway line inthe world after the London Underground.

With little time remaining, and after finish-ing up by visiting the Grand Bazaar,strolling the magnificent Istiklal pedestrianstreet and eating ate at the under thebridge restaurants at the lively harbor, wewent off the beaten track and headed tothe Asian side of Istanbul, which unfortu-nately doesn’t receive the touristic atten-tion the European side, but is littered withdelights of its own. Start with a pick-me-upat the famous coffee shop at Moda pier,which overlooks the Marmara Sea beforeexploring the nearby Kadıköy Daily Marketwhich offers local fresh produce, handi-crafts and a row of books stores and pas-try shops. For those who enjoy a photoopportunity, head to the harbor where youcan find magnificent views of the city.

After a rollercoaster ride around the city oftwo continents, we were taken by limou-sine back to airport by our packageproviders TravelXclusive, whose profes-sionalism and attentive personal caremade both the planning and exploring ofIstanbul all the more memorable, andensured that this visit to the old city cer-tainly won’t be the last.

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www.travelxclusive.com

Air France has daily flights to Istanbulfrom Paris and departures from majorCanadian cities. Air France and theSkyTeam Alliance offer 15,000 daily flightsto 1,024 destinations in 178 countries andconnections from the best hubs in theworld. www.airfrance.com

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Postcards from Sunny

Marseillesby Natalie Ayotte

Through rolling hills of charming designand a classic, distinctly French aura,Marseilles has just as much clout as Parisand perhaps even a little more beauty. It’sdifficult not to feel completely at easestrolling the city streets, as the spirit andambiance of this fantastic destination isalmost always sophisticated, relaxed andaesthetically beautiful. Recently names theEuropean Capital of Culture, Marseillesoffers travellers a perfect introduction toFrance and all its culinary, artistic andentertainment facets.

Seeing Le Panier by foot

Steeped in historical magic, this old quar-ter of Marseilles boasts beautiful old-worldfeatures that can give a new guests agreat overall feel for this city. Best experi-enced by foot, La Panier has been aroundfor centuries, undergoing several transfor-mations during world wars and changesin local culture. Today, people can roamthe streets in search of art, admiring reli-gious masterpieces of architecture andsimple witness the world float by in a cozycafé.

Shopping exploration

Not only is walking around Le Panier awonderful time in itself, this neighbour-hood is also bursting with boutique shops,stores and places to pick up souvenirs.Purchase some French fashion or artisanchocolates, then wander into one of theice cream stories to indulge in a leisurelyafternoon.


See Marseilles on page 28

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movies. Rooms have been created in sim-ple design to promote a flair for presentday Marseilles and its love of stylish, yetuncomplicated space. Catering towardcouples, families and everyone inbetween, Mama Shelter is an ideal choicefor a new kind of accommodation in thecity.

Immerse in artistic expres-

sion

No real French holiday can be completewithout a visit to the local museum, oftenfull of incredible masterpieces fromaround Europe in beyond. Recently, theNational Museum in Marseilles, orMuCEM, has had a restoration and nowsits on the waterfront and seems to blendin with its naturally beautiful background.Design allows for lots of natural light thatseamlessly highlights the collection ofpaintings, statues, artifacts and more formaround the Mediterranean and the world.Not to mention, the new part of the build-ing is connected to an old fort, furtherillustrating the great strides this city hadmade to connect old with the new. Leavea bit of time for the lines to enter thismuseum, then don’t miss each special sec-tion, including architecture, religious icons,domestic items and much more.

The Marseilles Cathedral

One of the best ways to experience a newplace is to get an overall lay of the land.Climb to the top of Marseilles Cathedraland soak up panoramic views of this gianturban sprawl. Those who have visitedNotre Dame in Paris will be delighted tosee no long lines and instead will haveample time to explore undisturbed.


Noted modern touches

Most travellers venture to Marseilles for itstraditional look and feel, but this award-winning destination is also making leapsand bounds in the world of innovationand progression. Although massivechurches, enclaves, museums and inde-pendently owned restaurants are still thenorm, nestled between these staples ofMarseilles are new skyscrapers changingthe overall city landscape. Piers onceabandoned are now home to glass build-ings and futuristic silhouettes.

A classic cuisine

When it’s time for a full meal, this citypresents locals and tourist alike with awide range of delectable French cuisine,as well as many other options in variousdisciplines. However, if a fan of freshseafood, the traditional bouillabaissemade with five types of fish is a must-tryon any Marseilles getaway. Pair this at thebeautiful harbor side Miramar restaurantwith starters such as foie gras with truffleor a dessert of dark chocolate mousse.Finish with some hearty local wine andchoose from a selection of cigars at yourleisure.

Marseilles progression

France is full of old chateaus and stuffyinns that are centuries old. While experi-encing these might be worth it for a fewdays, Marseilles also had plenty of moremodern selections for the artistic travellerwith a keen eye for design. For instance,Mama Shelter has everything guests needto have an unforgettable and cozy stay,from on-site fresh restaurants to free

28

Marseilles nautical side

It would be a shame not to climb aboarda sea-faring vessel at least once while inMarseilles. This can be done in the har-bours or along quieter sides of the water-front, but for a real adventure, sail out tothe Calanques. These tower limestonerock formations cut through the blue skyand turquoise waters to create iconic look-ing natural wonders. They can be reachedin a day through a guided boat tour.Upon arrival, soak up the sun and majes-tic views that stretch nearly 20 kilometresalong the city’s water edge. Those feelingmore adventurous can try some snorkelingor scuba diving nearby to catch a glimpseof the amazing marine life that call thecalanques home. While above the water,keep an eye out for other forms of wildlife,such as the largest lizard in Europe- theMontpellier snake.

Out all night in Cours Julien

Touring, dining and boating during the dayis a thrill, but Marseilles also shines brightat night. The trendiest spot to enjoy funafter the sun goes down is Cours Julien,where guests can spend hours marveling atall types of offered entertainment. Livemusic and theater are some of the biggestdraws, either in large venues features pop-ular rock bands or at more intimate fringepreforming spaces highlighting more localtalent of the stage. DJs and other acts spinwell into the night at bars and clubs, cele-brating the city’s subculture among itsyoung people. Although it’s mostly off thebeaten path, more chefs, artists and othercreative types are turning to this neighbor-hood to showcase their skills.

If in the neighbourhood during the day,make some time to peruse the markets fullof fragrant flowers and other wares. Smallstreets also are covered in some impres-sive street art, splashed with incrediblecolours and creativity. Make sure to buysome signature olive oil soap as well in LaLicorne that is a specialty in the area.

Libation-themed day trips

Of course the city has so much to do thereis no reason to leave – besides the copi-ous amounts of scenic vineyards thatmake for excellent day trips. Travellers canlearn about the different varietals and theprocess winemakers have been perfectingin this region for years. Try areas such asCoteaux d’Aix, Luberon and Provence.

Lasting Memories

Marseille’s reputation is ever evolving,with many die-hard travellers falling inlove every day. Experience best of bothFrench world with centuries old decadenceas well as amazing modern feats of pres-ent-day constructions. Most locals have agreat sense of pride in their city by thewater, which spills over into the hearts ofits visitors as soon as they arrive.

29


www.tourismepaca.fr

www.marseille-tourisme.com

www.visitprovence.com

Air France has daily flights to Marseillefrom Paris and departures from majorCanadian cities. Air France and theSkyTeam Alliance offer 15,000 daily flightsto 1,024 destinations in 178 countries andconnections from the best hubs in theworld. www.airfrance.com

Exotic Dubai

From the Traditional to the Ultra-Moder

by Habeeb Salloum

30

rn

Perhaps no other city in the worldhas so many distinctions as the cos-mopolitan city of Dubai, the com-mercial heart of the United Arab Emirates.Due to the romantic setting of its water-ways and shorelines covered in dhows(traditional Arab sailing ships), some trav-ellers label it ‘The Venice of the Gulf’;and, being the second gold trading centrein the world after Singapore, it’s alsoknown as ‘A City of Gold’. Dubai enjoysthe world's highest per capita consumptionof gold with an average of 36 grams perperson.

One city, many names

The architecturally stunning buildings,urbane aura and flower-filled parks haveled to its other names: ‘Pearl of the Gulf’,‘A Model of 21st Century Sophistication’,and ‘the Internet and Media City of theGulf’. Yet, no matter how people refer toit, Dubai has a great deal to offer visitors.

A melting pot of culture

Located on the southern shore of theArabian Gulf, the city has been a meetingplace of people since ancient times.Today, there are 150 ethnic groups ofpeople from countries spanning Far Eastto the Americas, all living and workingwithout much friction in this tolerant urbancentre. Dubai is one of the fastest devel-oping commercial and tourism pivotalpoints in the world. The population ofmore than two million is throbbing withlife, yet retains a relaxed and sophisticatedambience.

Old and new together

For centuries, a leading trading hub, thisonce sleepy Arabian Gulf town has beentransformed, in the past few decades, intoone of the most opulent and beautifulcities on earth. However, with a culturedeeply rooted in the Islamic traditions ofArabia, Dubai still retains its unique Arabflavour and personality, evolved to fit intoan international lifestyle.

The city is separated by a 14 km (8.7 mi)long natural salt water inlet called theCreek which divides Dubai into two parts:Deira, the so-called new section (today,there are much more progressive sec-tions); and Bur Dubai, the old. Ancientblends with the ultra-modern along thewater. Traditional souks and wind-towers(called alfajas) vie for attention with tower-ing skyscrapers, elegant villas and lushgreen parks. It is a kaleidoscope of con-trasts and an urban centre of refinement.

31


See Dubai on page 32

32 On top of the curve

As a result of government and privateinvestment, Dubai boasts a wide range ofstate-of-the-art facilities. This includes 457world-class luxury hotels and other 21stcentury structures, such as desalinationplants and telecommunication systems.The city’s skyline features some of thewildest architecture in the world, almostfantasy buildings that seem to float in theair like the sails of an Arab dhow. A com-bination of massive investments has pro-duced stunning hotels with first-class serv-ice, pushing Dubai to take off like noother tourist destination in modern times -in 2012, 10 million visitors vacationed inthe city - expected to increase to 20 mil-lion in 2020.

Yachts and gold

For visitors, a great way to begin explor-ing this futuristic city is to hire an abra (asmall wooden boat) and explore theCreek, the historic focal point in Dubai.There are about 150 abras navigating theCreek which take riders across for lessthan 30 cents, or can be hired by thehour.

The colourful scene of men loading andunloading hundreds of dhows which stillply the ancient trade routes from India toEast Africa is like living in the past. Onthe Deira side, the broad, necklace-shaped promenade is surrounded by stun-ning, newly-built skyscrapers and thebreath-taking Dubai Golf & Yacht Club.Travellers can wander the narrow alley-ways which have survived the buildingboom of recent years. In the Spice Souk,the scents of the Orient can be savoured,and in the hundreds of Gold Souk shops,gold can be purchased at a very lowprice.

The extensive landscaped Creekside Parkand the rebuilt historic area at the mouthof the Creek are found opposite on theBur Dubai side.

Shopping for days

For sophisticated shoppers, the city is sat-urated with some 30 large plazas. High-end merchants offer internationallyfamous name brands. Annually, they puton a month long ‘Shopping Festival’ inJanuary where all products are sold at50% discount to buyers from across theglobe. Gold merchants, keeping alive thelabel for Dubai, ‘City of Gold’, give awaykilos of gold in prizes during the festival.

Step back in time

Historic sites are also well worth a lookeven in such a modernized city. Most ofBur or Old Dubai has been renovated asa ‘heritage district’. At the top of the mon-uments from the past is the DubaiMuseum, housed in the restored Al FahidiFort - a must for any traveller. Colourfuland evocative dioramas complete withlife-size figures and sound and lightingeffects, vividly depict the atmosphere ofeveryday life in pre-oil days. Galleriesrecreate scenes from traditional Arabhomes, mosques, souks, date gardensand the most spectacular of all - the por-trayal of the underwater world of pearldiving.

Near the museum is a concentration oftraditional courtyard houses - under reno-vation - with wind-towers - the only meansof air conditioning before electricity.Beyond, toward the mouth of the Creek, isthe restored Sheikh Saeed Al MaktoumHouse. A fine example of the region's typ-ical architecture, it houses displays of his-toric agreements, coins and stamps. A lit-tle further on are two rebuilt traditional vil-lages, featuring potters and weavers dis-playing their crafts.

Head out to the wadis

These historic relics, with their exoticaura, are complemented by the strikingDubailand, a Disneyland for children, andseven championship golf courses, as wellas journeys to the surrounding desert.Tour companies take tourists on safaris toride the dunes, sand ski, camel ride,explore the wadis (dry river beds) andfeast while being entertained under thestarry desert sky.

Odd and fun ventures

Crowning these activities, will be a visit toone of huge man-made islands in theshape of palms. These three architecturalwonders were designed in a shape of adate palm tree with a massive trunk.Called by romantics the “8th Wonder ofthe World”, they are the first man-madeislands in the world. To top all the modernstructures is Burj Khalifa, the tallest build-ing in the world and ‘Ski Dubai SnowPark’ where Dubaians can experienceArctic snow and winter sports under theblazing sun. These and many other fanta-sy projects ensure that almost all touristsreturn satisfied from this exotic destinationwith a modern lifestyle.

Combining the magic of the East with thefacilities and pleasures of the modern


Dubai

Continued from page 31


373 hotels and hotel apartments in thecity.

7) The best time to travel to Dubai is fromthe first of the year to the end of Februaryduring the month-long ‘Shopping Festival’with its street parties as well as its shop-ping sales and bargains, held in a carni-val atmosphere.

8) No traveller should leave Dubai withoutgoing on a desert safari with its sand dun-ing, camel riding and desert feast.

9) For other activities, attend some of thehorse racing and camel racing events heldduring the cool winter months.

10) Dubai is a shoppers’ dream world - itshuge modern malls like the Dubai Mall

offer the products of literally all thenations on the globe. The most populargifts visitors take back home are: Arabiancoffee pots, silver and wooden miniaturedhows, gold jewellery, Persian carpets andArabian curved daggers.

Attractions not men-

tioned in the article

worth a visit:

Burj Al Arab (Tower of the Arabs), a fanta-sy hotel built over the waters of theArabian Gulf.

Emirates Towers, modern and pleasingarchitectural structures.

Dubai Fountains, ranked no.1 of 185

major attractions in Dubai.

Dubai Metro, a modern and classy citytransportation system.

Dolphin Bay, one of the world’s largestand most sophisticated dolphin habitats inthe world.

Wild Wadi Water Park, with its 23 waterrides, among Dubai's major tourist attrac-tions

33world, Dubai stands out as one of theworld’s most dominant must-destinations.

Facts About Dubai:

1) Dubai has good connections with therest of the world. Some 130 airlines oper-ate from the city to almost 220 destina-tions worldwide. The airport has beenexpanded and has become one of theworld’s inter-continental transit centres,processing some 58 million passengers.

2) Most western European, American andCanadian citizens can enter the UAE,without a prior visitor’s visa, they canobtain their visas at the entry points.

3) Autos rent at a reasonable price. Asmall auto, fully insured, costs about $30.per-day - less if you bargain. Roads areexcellent, but beware of two legged tigersdriving autos.

4) The U.S. dollar is equal to 3.67 UAEdirhams. The rate has remained the samefor decades. Exchange cash or travellercheques at the money exchangers - theydo not take commission.

5) A great way of seeing Dubai is to takea tour of the Creek by traditional dhow.Some of Dubai’s major landmarks can beviewed from this waterway.

6) Major international hotel chains arewell represented in Dubai. However, thereare other very reasonably priced andexcellent abodes to be found throughoutthe city. The choice is wide. There are

34

Cameroon

All Africa in one Country

By Michael Morcos


With its elongated triangle shape, justnorth of the equator Cameroon juts intoWestern Africa’s sharp curve like a pieceof jigsaw, hiding amongst its six borderingcountries and salvaging a little chunk ofthe Atlantic Ocean. These geographicalstatistics have sometimes proven a thornin the side to Cameroon’s tourism indus-try. The noisy neighbours have had a ten-dency to be, well, quite noisy over theyears, putting a damper on the region asa whole and forcing Cameroonians andofficials to be a little skeptical towards for-eign visitors. Those measures havechanged over recent years, and the gov-ernment has made it clear that tourismcan prove a vital boost to the country’swellbeing. Long gone are the days ofintense security checks at airports andborders, and visitors are now free to travelCameroon at will, exploring one ofAfrica’s most culturally and geographicallydiverse landscapes, before rounding offthe day with a cold and refreshingCameroon 33 beer.

Predominantly French speaking with sever-al English language regions, Cameroon isone of Africa’s most stable countries onboth a social and political scale, and isproving itself to be one of the continent’smost rewarding travel experiences.

Begin with Paradise

I started my West African adventure inCameroon’s largest city, and the country’sunofficial economic centre of Douala. Thecity houses the regions busiest airport andproves a pleasant surprise to first timers

See Cameroon on page 36

35

biggest sources of carbohydrates in thedeveloping world, Cassava is a fleshy rootand is known in the region for its toler-ance to droughts and ability to grow withlittle soil. With a sweet taste, the woodyshrub forms an essential accompanimentto a typical meal in Western Africa.

An afternoon walk around the CameroonArtisanal Market should not be missed,where you can find authentic hand-madecrafts and a plethora of tasty street foodwhich sizzles through air as the localsbarter over produce and gifts. A little clos-er to the centre, Le Palais des Rois Bell(The Palace of the Kings Bell) is a palaceconstructed by the Germans in 1905 forthe then king Auguste Manga Ndumbe,also known as King Bell. With its Pagodastyle design and Asian influence, thepalace has very few rooms but does housenumerous court yards and a loft on thetop floor which once offered the best viewof the city.

A day or two is more than sufficient toexplore the highlights of Cameroon’slargest metropolis, with a few morethrown in for those who wish to samplefurther both the cuisine and the hospitalityof the local people.

Beach Life

Life certainly can be a beach in the sleepycoastal town and beach resort of Kribi,which lies just 150km south of Douala.The beaches here are pristine, clean andnot jammed with the hordes of holiday-makers normally associated with a beachof this quality. I spent a morning here incomplete tranquility, Cameroon 33 inhand, whilst relaxing to the sounds of the


Cameroon


36

who are jetting into Cameroon, offeringmodern facilities and infrastructure aroundthe vibrant and bustling city.

Before I had a chance to explore the city, Irested up before taking a trip to one ofCameroon’s most spectacular settings; theChutes d’Ekom Nkam (Ekom Falls). Thedrive towards the falls – the setting for the1984 movie Greystoke – The Legend ofTarzan starring Christopher Lambert - ismagnificent in its own right, as weencountered steep roads which time andtime again revealed wonderful views ofthe surrounding hilly rainforests. Uponarrival I was greeted by the friendly villagechief and an awe-inspiring view of thefalls where one can take some memorablephotos and spend a while taking in thesurrounding vistas. Having visited some ofthe most spectacular waterfalls on theplanet, Ekom Falls surprised me for itssheer size and the volume of water whichtumbles down irrepressibly. There is then awalkway which allows you to hike downand get closer to the falls, along withsome improvised but well-functioning hik-ing trails around the rain forests.

Douala

Back in the city, I spent the day exploringfreely and felt extremely welcome by thelocals who, despite their hard workinglifestyle, are always available for a quickchat – primarily in French – should someadvice on local street food or directions beneeded. Whilst on that subject, Cassava -which is the traditional Cameroonian foodsold almost everywhere on the streets –looked too good to turn down and I thenfound myself with daily lunch time crav-ings after the first taste. One of the


For those looking to sample some of thehistory of the region, head further alongthe coast to Bimbia where you can findthe Bimbia Slave Port. Here, locals act outthe gone-by days of slavery in a movingyet still entertaining show.

Cameroon’s Capital

Whilst the capital doesn’t enjoy the Africangrandeur of its coastal rival Douala, theCameroonian capital of Yaoundé is anarguably cleaner and more organized ver-sion. Close to the Centre Atisanal deYaoundé, one can pick up handicraftsbefore taking in some of the various styledgovernment buildings erected in the 70’sthat are still around today. Whilst capitalcities in this part of the world are makingthe news for all the wrong reasons,Yaoundé simply stays out of the news dueto the tranquility of the city, somethingrare for a capital city in any part of theworld. The main attractions do however lieon the outskirts of the city. Just 30kmnorth, head to Melfou National Park,which rehabilitates and socializes aban-doned and orphaned pet animals. Thetours which are in both English andFrench are informative and give visitors anopportunity to get close up to gorillas,chimpanzees and mandrills.

The perfect way to end my Cameroonadventure was out in the open air. Closeto Yaoundé, we headed to Ebogo wherewe were given the opportunity to canoe insome of the regions clearest lakes whilst ahandful of local children splashed aboutfor a post school swim – an amazing sitewhich summed up my West African jour-ney in a matter of seconds.

crashing waves. After a sleepy morning Iheaded to the nearby Chutes de la Lobé(Lobe Falls), the world’s only spot whereyou can find a waterfall that enters theAtlantic Ocean through a water cascade.Upon arrival, a late ‘Breakfast ofChampions’ was the order of the day, fea-turing beer and shrimp in a spicy saucewhilst enjoying the sensational seasideviews of the cascades before exploring thenearby Grand Batanga Museum to viewsome of the interesting artifacts on display.

We finished the day off with a late after-noon visit to the Camp of the Pygmies,where we were treated to a wonderfullunch and an afternoon of traditionaldances and ceremonies from the localpeople.

We were back in Kribi for sunset where weenjoyed a wonderful meal featuring typicalCameroonian fare of Captain Fish accom-panied by French bread, maize and yam.

Shadow of the Great

Lying amongst the looming MountCameroon, I arrived at the tea growingtown of Buea, which is the capital of theSouthwest Region of Cameroon. Home toseveral universities and a selection ofGerman colonial buildings, Buea offerstours to the Cameroon Tea Estate (CTE),while further towards the coast in thenearby town of Limbe one can visit theLimbe Wildlife Centre, which is a rescueand rehabilitation centre for animals thatface extinction and/or are victims of thebush meat trade, as well as the beautifulLimbe Botanical Gardens where we weretreated to traditional African music anddance whilst enjoying a fantastic five starmeal.

37

40

Nepal

At The Top of the World

by Amar Bahadur Shrestha

Many know that Nepal is a smalllandlocked country sandwichedbetween two large countries,

China and India and that its capital is thelegendary Katmandu. And everyone knowsthat Nepal has the highest mountain onearth, the one and only Mount Everest (In2003, Nepal celebrates the fiftieth year ofthe conquering of Mount Everest). It is alsowidely known that Nepal is the homelandof the courageous Gurkhas. However, thereare some facts about this small country thatshould be better known.

The Mountains

Nepal has nine mountains that are morethan 8000 meters high and nine otherpeaks taller than 6800 meters. Eight ofthe world's tallest peaks stand sentinelover this land of beauty. One of the tallestand most beautiful is the MachapuchreHimal in picturesque Pokhara. To have aclose and leisurely look at this fascinatingmountain, one should spend a few days in

the charming lake city of Pokhara which isjust half an hour away by air fromKatmandu. As they say, welcome to thetall country.

The Rivers

Nepal’s main river systems are Kosi,Narayani, Gandaki, Karnali andMahakali. They originate in theHimalayas, and are potential energysources, but at present, one can enjoy thethrill of getting wet, while rafting down theicy waters of the Himalayas. Nepal is wetin more ways than one. This small countryproduces some of the best-known interna-tional brands of beer and liquor. Visitorsfrom countries that have prohibition lawsare almost always surprised to find liquorso freely available. Welcome to the wetcountry.

The People

Although industrialization is still slow andpoverty levels are high, the people of this

small kingdom are generally honest to afault, and quick to have a laugh. The typi-cal Nepali in fact makes the most of everyopportunity to enjoy himself. Thereforeyou will see a lot of festivals in this coun-try. Any excuse will do for having a goodtime! Welcome to a happy country!

Gurkhas and Sherpas

Nepal is home to twenty million people ofvarious hues, the more famous being theGurkhas and the Sherpas. The Gurkhasare considered to be the best soldiers inthe world and the Sherpas, the bestmountaineers in the world.Their reputa-tions are well-deserved as witnessed bytheir exploits and the honours they havereceived throughout history and in thepresent-day. Therefore, welcome to theland of the brave and the hardy.

Works of Art

From time immemorial Nepal has givenbirth to great works of art. The Newar

make at least one visit to a Nepali restau-rant if only to drink a little of the localliquor, called 'Rakshi', along with the typi-cal Nepali lunch of steamed rice, lentilsoup, fresh spinach, chicken and veg-etable curry and tomato pickle. As fortravel, a dozen domestic airlines wait totake you all over the country, in airplanes,as well as in helicopters. If you prefer totravel by road, there are hundreds ofexcellent buses plying the length andbreadth of the kingdom. Welcome to theland of comforts.

Land of Peace

Religion plays a major part in the every-day life of all Nepalese and the basicprinciples of Hinduism and Buddhism epit-omizes the ideals that Nepal lives by.Peace, tolerance and universal brother-hood amongst all the people of the world.Therefore, we welcome all the world to theland of peace.


Katmandu. Here one will also get to knowthe Tharus, one of the indigenous peopleof Nepal.

Besides the lovely resorts in the Terai,catering to the wild life lovers, Nepal hasplenty of resorts located on the hills andmountains catering to the mountainlovers. The best among these are inNagarkot and Dhulikhel, both quite closeto the Capital. Pokhara, some seven hoursby road from Katmandu, is according tomany, one of the most beautiful places inthe world. The Fishtail Mountain and theFewa Lake are its main attractions.Pokhara has numerous world-class resortsas well as economy hotels and lodges withtheir own unique charms. Welcome to theland of resorts.

Restaurants and

Transportation

Eating out is a pleasure and there areplenty of restaurants to cater to your par-ticular taste. Of course a tourist should

community that has inhabited Katmandufor centuries. They were, and still are,fabled artisans. They have created beauti-ful woodcraft, fascinating bronze andstone work, intricate jewelry in the cities ofKatmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur. Eachtemple, each town square, every 'durbar',many houses, and numerous statues standtestimony to their immense talent.Welcome to an art lover's paradise.

Animal Sanctuaries &

Human Resorts

Nepal is also home to a lot of animals,the most famous being the elusive Yeti, theSnow Leopard, the Yak, the Rhino and theGharial. Of course the visitor has littlechance of seeing the mysterious Yeti, butcan definitely see the other animals at thehalf dozen sanctuaries that are also lovelyresorts. The best of these, some interna-tionally famous, can be found in the RoyalChitwan National Park situated in the lushforests of the Terai, the plains of Nepal. Byair it is barely half an hour from

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42

See a Kiwi in its Natural

Habitat

Seeing a kiwi bird is something that youcan only do in New Zealand. The endan-gered bird is the country’s national sym-bol. Flightless and nocturnal, kiwis are theonly birds that have nostrils on the end oftheir large beaks. While they may lookquite cute, they can be fierce and arehighly territorial. In Wellington, on theNorth Island, Zealandia has over 100kiwis living at their eco-sanctuary. TheirZealandia by Night tour gives you achance to see kiwis in their natural habitatforaging for food. On the South Island,Bravo Adventure Cruises’ Kiwi Spotting onStewart Island tour also gives you a greatopportunity to see kiwis in their naturalenvironment.

Travelling in New Zealand provides visitorswith the opportunity for unique experi-ences that you can’t have anywhere else.Kiwis, the affectionate nickname for NewZealanders, are incredibly friendly and areknown around the globe for their welcom-ing ways. Chat with a Kiwi and before youknow it, chances are, they’re walking youto your destination, you’re visiting theirfavourite pub or you are at their house fordinner!

The following is a list of the top five thingsyou can only do in New Zealand.

Top Five Things You Can Only Do In

New Zealandby Ruth Atherley

See Where a Hobbit Lives

For fans of the Lord of the Rings movies,there has never been a better time tocheck out the Hobbiton Movie Set nearMatamata on the North Island. Fans cantake a guided tour of the incredible filmset that showcases beautiful, completedhobbit holes, the pub and other icons.This is unprecedented access to theMiddle-earth location.

43

Take a Ride on the

Steepest Tree-to-Tree

Flying Fox in the World

Ziptrek Queenstown offers a range ofziplining tours. Their Kea 6-Line Tour pro-vides an adrenalin-filled opportunity tozipline down a hill for about a kilometeron the steepest tree-to-tree flying fox inthe world. This thrill-seeking experiencealso includes a 20-minute guided hikethrough an ancient native beech forest.

Hang Out on the Beach

with Gannets in Hawke’s

Bay

The Cape Kidnappers Gannet Reserve ishome to 20,000 gannets – the largest andmost accessible mainland gannet colonyin the world. Known to Maori as “takapu,”these birds usually breed on islands; yeteach year thousands of gannets are foundon the mainland here. This unique experi-ence can be reached by 4WD vehicles,tractor and trailer, four-wheel motorbike,and on foot at low tide.

Eat a Fergburger

If there is one thing Kiwis like as much asa glass of wine or a local microbrew, it’sfood. New Zealand offers visitors thechance to have some incredible tasteexperiences – none better thanFergburger. The rapt attention people payto eating these burgers backs up the localclaim that these are the best burgers onthe face of the planet. Based inQueenstown, this little burger joint onlycloses between 5 a.m. and 8 a.m. and it’salways busy. Big, juicy burgers, great friesand a cult-like atmosphere of food lovecreate a one-of-a-kind experience. Theowner has absolutely no interest inexpanding or franchising. This little estab-lishment in Queenstown is the only placein the world you can get a Fergburger.

Bolivia

Landlocked and Lush

By Steven Sanders

44

With South America being the continentwith the highest growth in tourism for thelast three years, it’s little surprise theadventurous ones are spreading deeperinto this remarkable corner of the globe.Argentina, Brazil and Peru may be theheadline grabbers, whilst Colombia, Chileand Ecuador have been welcoming moreand more visitors of late, but the goodvibes coming out of sky high Bolivia areseeing more backpackers and holidaymakers explore this Andean nation thanever before.

Bolivia is different. A country of the strongwilled, Bolivians eat very well and takegreat pride in their food, and their refusalto give in to the commercialism that seemsto dominate the modern cities of the worldis proof of this difference – McDonaldsoperated at a huge loss in Bolivia for 9years until they finally decided to close thedoors in 2002. Bolivians simply didn’twant it.


45

See Bolivia on page 46

the fantastic salt flats of Salar de Uyuni.The city practically functions on tourism,with the main street dedicated to tourcompanies offering a Jeep service to thesalt flats. Prices are incredibly variant, soshop around. Both one and three daytours include a lunch stop-off en route atthe Great Train Graveyard, containingsome of the continents oldest trains.

For those returning to the town for thenight and craving a taste from home,Minuteman Pizza – set up and ran by anAmerican expat – is hugely popularamongst tourists and has a renowned rep-utation for offering the best Pizza’s inBolivia.

I finished my trip with a long weekend inthe city of Copacabana, situated on theBolivian side of the world’s highest navi-gable lake – Lake Titicaca. The city issmall and peaceful but offers some of thebest trout you will ever taste, caught dailyfrom the lake. A boat tour to Isla del Sol isa must, where one can relax on the north-ern shore, swim in the clear lake and visitthe Gold Museum which houses Incatreasures discovered in the nearby waters.

What to know

Altitude sickness is the biggest worry fortravelers to Bolivia. Whilst the majority ofpeople are fine flying directly into La Paz,it is recommended that you ascend at aslow pace. Many who enter Bolivia over-land at a slower rate of ascent rarelyreport altitude sickness. If flying direct toLa Paz, taking Acetazolamide the daybefore your trip up until a few days at alti-tude can help. Coca tea is the well-knownlocal remedy.

While most tourists leave Bolivia with noth-ing but fond memories, it is advised toexercise caution as you would in any otherforeign country, keeping your valuableswell hidden and avoiding walking aroundalone at night. Police are under strictorders not to hassle tourists, so be wearyof anybody posing as a police officer andinsist on producing documents only at apolice station.

Landing above the clouds

Flying into the world’s highest airport in LaPaz is a surreal experience. The country’sadministrative capital – Bolivia has twocapital cities - is perched at 3,650 mmeters above sea level, with the jungle ofskyscrapers clinging to the mountainsmaking me wonder why on earth anybodywould decide to build a sprawling metrop-olis here. Once on the ground, if that’swhat you would call it, the city is a roller-coaster of steep hills, chic coffee shops,and cute museums.

For those with a taste for musical instru-ments, the Museo de InstrumentosMusicales is a must visit, where you canlearn all about early percussion and stringinstruments including the famous Boliviancharango. Mirador Killi Killi offers a cityview like no other, taking in the sprawlingcity and the surrounding mountains, whilePlaza Murillo can offer a sense of stabilityafter navigating the steep surroundingstreets.

As a big golf fan, I couldn’t resist inadding another check to my list by teeingoff at the world’s highest golf course atthe La Paz Golf Club.

Total Terracotta

Sucre - Bolivia’s official capital - is a worldaway from the lights of La Paz and isarguably one of South America’s mostbeautiful cities. Almost all of the buildingsare whitewashed with terracotta roofingand lined up along tranquil, cobbledstreets. Only 270,000 people live inSucre, yet I found it to be a city worth stay-ing for a good few days to relax, peoplewatch, and take in the majestic views fromthe hill of La Recoleta.

One can also find real dinosaur footprintsin Parque Cretacico – which also houseslife size replicas, while Castillo de laGlorieta and Castillo de la Libertad showoff the city’s wonderful architecture.

Heading south from Sucre we arrived inthe small city of Uyuni, stop off point for

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cwt 41 fall/winter 2013-14 issue

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