Study of Cutting Machine

FABRIC CUTTINGTo make a complete garments, cutting is necessary. It means to cut out the

garment pieces from lays of the fabric with the help of cutting templates. In garments industries fabric is cut from lay and spreading with accuracy and properly which is termed as fabric cutting.

• Object:To separate fabric parts from the spread of the lay according to the dimension

of the marker

• Requirements Of Cutting: Precession of cut

Clean edge

Infused edge

Consistency in cutting

Support of the lay

TYPES OF CUTTING METHOD Fully Manual Hand operated scissor

Manually Operated Power Knife Straight knife

Band knife

Round knife

Die cutting

Notcher

Drill

Computerized Methods Of Fabric Cutting Computer controlled knife cutting

Cutting by Laser beam

Cutting by Water jet

Cutting by Plasma torch

HAND OPERATED SCISSOR• Features: First & oldest method of fabric cutting

Used for cutting one or two plies of fabric

Available to cut the fabric from left to right or right to left

Can be cut by scissor

Needs more time & contain high cost

Used in tailoring & household purpose to cut fabric

STRAIGHT KNIFE• Features:The elements of straight knife consists of:

1. An electric motor

2. Stand

3. A base plate usually on rollers

4. Handle

5. Knife

6. Knife Guard

7. Wheel

Knife is driven by electric power

Grinding wheel is present to sharp the knife during cutting

Blade edge: straight edge, wave edge, saw edge, serrated edge

Straight edge is mostly used

Blade stroke 2.5 to 4.5 cm

Can cut heavy fabric such as canvas & denim

STRAIGHT KNIFE• Working Principal: Two kind of powers are required to operate a Straight Knife

Motor power drive the reciprocating knife

Operator power drives the knife through the lay

The motor power needed is determined by

Height of the lay

Construction of the fabric

Curvature of the line being cut

Stroke of the blade

Greater power of the motor, greater blade movement to cut the fabric

STRAIGHT KNIFE• Advantage:Comparatively cheap & transferred easily from one place to

another placeHigher lay of fabric can be cut easilyRound corner can be cut more precisely then even round knifeProduction speed is very good & fabric can be cut from any angle

• Disadvantage:Some time deflection may occur due to the weight of the motorKnife deflection is high in risk, when lay height is too highSometime accident may happen

DIFFERENT TYPES OF KNIFERound Knife:

Straight Knife:

Wave knife

Straight knife Notch knife

BAND KNIFE• Features:Band knife comprises a series of three or more pulleys, powered by

electric motor

Cutting knife is endless in shape & flexible

Blade is usually narrower then on a straight knife

This method m/c is stationary but fabric is moveable

This is like saw mill cutter

BAND KNIFEAdvantage:Used when a higher standard of cutting accuracy is required

Extensively used to cut very sharp corners small parts such as collars & cuff

Used more in men’s wear than ladies wear

Intensively risk of accident is low

Possible to cut 90˚ angle of the fabric

Disadvantage:

Work load is high as m/c is stationary & fabric is moveable

Not suitable for cutting large amount of garments parts

Not possible to cut fabric directly

Fabric wastage is high

Power loss is high

ROUND KNIFE• Features:

Element of round knife:

Base plate & Electric motor

Handle for the cutter to direct the blade

Rotating circular blade

Blade diameter varies from 6-20 cm

Blade is circular

Blade is driven by electric power

Circular knife is driven by 1000-3500 cm

•

ROUND KNIFEAdvantage: Suitable for single ply cutting as well as multi-layers (say 20-30 layers)

Suitable for small scale cutting

Suitable gentle curve cutting

Easy to operate

Useful for cutting layer parts of a garments

Disadvantage:

Not suitable for cutting very curve lines in higher no. of lays

Not suitable for higher production

Possibility of accident is high

Difficult to cut small component

Needs skilled operator

DIE CUTTING

• Features:

Mainly two types of die cuttings are available namely: Presses & Clickers

Main parts of all die cutting m/c are Blade, Ram Head, Die, Motor & Operating System of Ram

Die is made by metallic strip

Most useful to cut sharp & small parts

DIE CUTTINGWorking Principal: Die is prepared with metal strip according to the shape of pattern

Die press generally has a cutting die just penetrates the cutting pad in order that the fibers of the lowest ply are completely separated

For die cutting, the spreader spreads a lay to the required placement of dies

The spread is cut into sections to allow transport to the cutting pad

The gap between two dies 2-3 mm are placed when die is taken to cut fabric lay

DIE CUTTING• Advantage:Extensively used to cut sharp corners of small parts of dress accurately

Most useful to cut at any shape or any angle

Comparatively less time required

Best method of cutting knitted fabric

• Disadvantage:Fabric loss is high due to the need of block of fabric lay

High labor cost

To change the style quickly is impossible

Difficult to cut large components of dress

NOTCHER CUTTING M/CFeatures:Special type of cutting m/c & used in special caseUsed to cut notch in the edge of some componentsThe invention of notcher m/c was done to make notchThe notch can be made in U-shape or V-shape

NOTCHER CUTTING M/CAdvantage:Special type of cutting m/c & used in special caseUseful to cut small notch to the fabricMost useful to make consistency in notching

Disadvantage:Only used to make notchThermoplastic fiber can not cut by this m/cTime lossUse of the m/c is limited

DRILL CUTTING M/CFeatures:Needed to mark on the end of components of dresses especially for pocket & dart settingThis m/c contains a motor, base plate, drill, & spirit levelFor tightly woven fabric, making of hole by drill is permanent for longIn hypodermic drill some color is sprayed along with the hole so that it can easy to find the marked place

DRILL CUTTING M/CAdvantage:Needed to mark on the end of components of dresses especially for setting pocket & dartMake the hole permanently for long time

Disadvantage:Only used for making hole in the fabric especially for setting pocket & dartFor loose woven fabric it can not make the hole permanently for long time

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