cullanary artist issue 4
TRANSCRIPT
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the culinary
artistart on the plate
Issue 4
South Africa R50 (incl. VAT) Other Countries R43.86 (ex vat) plus postage
D e l u x e F o o D | W i n e | e q u i p m e n t | S p i r i t S m a g a z i n e
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contents
4 Celebrating one of South Africa’s brightest culinary stars, we take a closer look at The Saxon.
8 The Palace of the Lost City opens its new fine dining restaurant, Plume.
12 Rudi Liebenberg is putting the farm to fork philosophy into practice at The Mount Nelson.
16 Morgenster Extra Virgin Olive Oil wins big at the international Flos Olei 2014 competition.
18 Meet the new Managing Director of Unilever Food Solutions, Michel Mellis.
20 Chef Phil Howard shifts his focus back to his first restaurant, the two Michelin-starred The Square.
24 Anton Mosimann celebrates his restaurant’s 25th anniversary.
28 Reuben Riffel opens a new restaurant in the seaside town of Paternoster.
34 Celebrating the art of bubbles, Pieter Ferreira talks about his enduring love affair with MCC.
36 After representing the UK in the World Chocolate Masters, Ruth Hinks gives advice to those wanting to work in pastry.
42 We take a closer look at De Wetshof, a wine estate that’s renowned for its fabulous chardonnay.
44 Despite its unfortunate name, noble rot is celebrated by winemakers and transforms grapes into something quite special.
46 Chef Chantel Dartnall travels to Europe and dines at the spectacular Hof van Cleve in Belgium.
50 HTA is one of South Africa’s leading training institutes – we look at the school’s journey from small school to market leaders in on-site training.
54 Kayetan Meissner is 2013’s winner of the Bollinger Exceptional Wine Service Award
56 Beyers Chocolates have been producing world-class confectionery for more than 25 years.
58 Cuisine&Wine Asia show us how to transform the humble red and green beans into culinary masterpieces.
60 Ludmila Slokoski from Bulgaria is this issue’s featured food photographer.
62 Chef Martin Kobald’s company MLK Food and Beverage Solutions offers professional advice and innovative solutions.
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Co-Published by: Shout Factory Publishing &Billy Gallagher and Associates
Compiled and edited by: Billy Gallagher and [email protected]: +27 (0) 83 625 1720
Marketing Director: Jason WhitehouseShout [email protected] | Tel: +27 (0) 82 903 6129
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Subscription Manager: Megan [email protected] Riley | [email protected]
Graphic Designers: Peter [email protected] / Tel: +27 (0) 21 556 7493Jeanlé Casarin | [email protected]
Contributors:Chantel DartnallNicolette WaterfordMelissa DiedericksBilly GallagherJulian RichfieldIan ManleyAnton MosimannCuisine&Wine AsiaRuth HinksEmile JoubertSarah MarjoribanksHelena Masters We are delighted to have an agreement with Juliet Cullinanand share articles between our two magazines, The CulinaryArtist and Monte Carlo the Art of Taste.
Photographers’ Credits:Romi StochTania Theron.Cindy EllisLudmila SlokoskiIlian IlievNick Voutsas
Disclaimer: Shout Factory and Billy Gallagher & Associatesmake no representations about the accuracy of the information, data, advertisements, graphics or other content contained in any Shout Factory and Billy Gallagher & Associates owned online platform, e-mail newsletter or print publication, including, but not limited to, the Shout Factory print and online magazine, blogs and other email newsletters, and any other media channel owned or produced by Shout Factory or Billy Gallagher & Associates. Content produced by Shout Factory and Billy Gallagher & Associates may from time to time include technical inaccuracies or typographical errors. Statements on product or service quality, price or other features are only opinions and should not be relied on as guarantees or as offers for sale. For the full disclaimer notice, please visit http://shoutfactory.co.za/print-media/.
Welcome to 2014We’ve put together an exciting issue
for you to kick off the New Year
with, including some wonderfully
creative dishes from some of the
world’s most distinguished chefs.
David Higgs takes pride of place
in our cover article, once again
illustrating his talent and culinary
innovation.
Going back to the land to ensure you
obtain the best possible ingredients
is one of the commitments culinary
activist and leading chef Rudi
Liebenberg is passionate about,
and he’s making it happen in his
kitchens at the famous Mount
Nelson Hotel in Cape Town. We are
also proud to feature the 25th year
anniversary of one of London’s most famous eateries - Mosimann’s, the legendary
Swiss chef Anton Mosimann’s iconic restaurant. Taking a trip down memory lane,
we reminisce and remember one of South Africa’s greatest winemakers, Günter
Brözel, who created the very first vintage of the now legendary Edelkeur in 1969.
Ruth Hinks, multi-award winning pastry chef, gives us an in-depth look and
shares her insights into the world of the pastry - this is a must read for any chef
contemplating becoming a pastry chef. Stephen Billingham takes us around his
state-of-the-art culinary school in Randburg, Johannesburg - a true centre of
culinary learning.
There’s lots of stimulating ideas to get your creative juices flowing in this jam-
packed issue, and we hope you enjoy the variety of articles we have selected. As
always we would like to hear from you, our readers, so please feel free to drop
me an email with any of your suggestions on what you would like to see in the
magazine.
2014 will be our year for consolidation and growth as we work towards building
the magazine into a position of leadership within the hospitality industry.
Enjoy this issue and please consider passing on to a colleague,
Billy Gallagher, Editor, chief cook and bottle washer.
Keep in touch with Culinary Artist online through our website, facebook page and twitter account:www.culinaryartist.co.zatwitter.com/CulinaryArtist1www.facebook.com/CulinaryArtistSA
the culinary
artistart on the plate
Issue 4
South Africa R50 (incl. VAT) Other Countries R43.86 (ex vat) plus postage
D e l u x e F o o D | W i n e | e q u i p m e n t | S p i r i t S m a g a z i n e
Described as ‘The Circle of Life’, this dish is one of David Higgs’ culinary creations from five hundred at the Saxon Boutique Hotel & Spa.
a bright culinary
starThe Saxon Boutique Hotel and Spa is widely regarded as one of
South Africa’s finest establishments, and its culinary offerings match
the exquisite service and opulence that the hotel is renowned for.
cover Feature
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The hotel, in the middle of Johannesburg’s
lush Saxonwold suburb, spares no
expense in creating the perfect experience
for food-lovers. Fruits, vegetables and
herbs are picked every morning from the
Saxon’s vegetable garden, allowing chefs
to be inspired by each season’s bounty
and work with the freshest ingredients
possible.
The Saxon’s fine dining restaurant five
hundred was recently listed as the second
best restaurant in South Africa in the Eat
Out Awards, and the hotel’s Executive
Chef David Higgs was awarded Chef
of the Year. Focusing on experiential
dining, five hundred offers a multi-sensory
experience for the discerning diner, with
an open plan kitchen the focal point of
the restaurant.
For those who love champagne there is the
interactive Ruinart Experience – 6 courses
paired perfectly with Ruinart champagne
served in five hundred. However, the
care that’s taken in five hundred is easily
visible throughout all of the hotel’s dining
options. From al fresco dining on the
Terrace, and expertly prepared business
lunches at Qunu, to a decadent afternoon
tea served in the Piano Lounge and light,
fresh meals in the hotel’s decadent spa;
all are prepared with thought, skill and a
love of food.
Clockwise from left: Farmed Cob with Kohlrabi purée,
squid ink and a fried oyster, served at five hundred;
Qunu Grill’s Beef Tartare and Scallops with Pork.
cover Feature
Celebrating the synergy between food, wine and art, five hundred is the ultimate expression of culinary creativity. The restaurant may overlook the glittering Johannesburg skyline, but all of the action is in the open plan kitchen where the chefs prepare culinary art.
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On the left, is Beans and Kale. At the top of the page the five hundred team gets ready for
the evening’s service: Candice Philip (Head Chef five hundred), Lucky Khobotlo, David Higgs
(Executive Chef) and Steve Acton. This page, Foie Gras with Beetroot and Pomegranate.
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chefs in action
Sun International’s popular Sun City Resort, which opened in 1979, provides a completely unique leisure
experience with its world class casino and over one hundred exciting activities to offer visitors. Like
any leading leisure facility, the management of Sun City regularly put the whole operation under the
microscope to see if they are delivering on visitor expectations and also keeping up with changing tastes;
recently it was the Palace of the Lost City’s fine dining offerings’ turn for fine tuning.
a Palace in the Sun
Written by Julian Richfield | Photographs by Cindy Ellis
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The opulent Palace of the Lost City at Sun
City which opened in 1992 is fabled to be
the royal residence of an ancient king and
is luxurious in every facet of its fabulous
architecture. The Palace is adorned with
exquisite mosaics, frescoes, hand-painted
ceilings and works of art you would find
nowhere else in the world.
The hotel is surrounded by lush botanical
gardens, trickling streams and hidden
walking trails that ensure that the Palace
does indeed feel like a lost city.
The Palace of the Lost City attracts a
distinguished market, both local and
international, with its 5-star deluxe hotel
and service. Communication is made easy
for foreign visitors, with a panel of multi-
lingual staff members.
The Palace is also accommodating from a
dining perspective, as it caters for a diversity
of cuisines preferences and cultures. One
of the results of a recent strategic review is
the refreshment of the Palace’s restaurant
offering under the watchful eye of
Executive Chef Nicholas Froneman and
Food and Beverage Manager Crawford
Day. Chef Froneman is a Board member of
the SA Chefs Association, the holder of a
Chaîne des Rôtisseurs Blazon and has had
extensive restaurant experience both here
and in Singapore, Egypt and Tanzania.
Opened in October 2013 is brand new
eatery, Plume at The Palace. Its interior look
has a strong Lost City flow with a distinctive
touch of pink, and pillars leading up to a
beautiful ceiling with foliage adding to the
exotic atmosphere.
Plume is an intimate, modern Afro-
chic restaurant with Afro-French fusion
cuisine, which reflects our heritage, and
takes inspiration from French modern
cooking with techniques and presentation
like Sous Vides and elements of molecular
cuisine.
On the left, Chef Riaan van Eyk in the newly-refurbished Plume Restaurant. Above
is Chef Riaan with his team, and at the top of the page is the legendary entrance to
the Palace at the Lost City.
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chefs in action
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At the helm in Plume is Chef Riaan van Eyk
who has worked with Michelin Star chefs
and has also worked abroad at family-
owned establishments like Spanish Tapas
Bars and Bistro Pubs across Europe.
Riaan promises: “A fine dining experience
with an emphasis on ‘fun dining’ at the
same time in an intimate restaurant and
there are also the bubbly pleasures of
Plume’s Champagne Bar. Our overall design
is around Couples Dining, and we have a
small menu with a choice of five starters, five
mains and five deserts and the part I really
enjoy is coming to each table to talk through
my menu with our customers.”
Plume’s signature dish is Riaan’s Smokey
Biltong Spiced Sirloin Steak with pickled
cabernet onions and jus. The dish uses
authentic wood smoking chips to apply
the smoke needed. These wood chips
are from old Jack Daniels oak aging
barrels that are broken down into small
pieces for use in a hand held smoker. The
combination of 21 day aged beef and Jack
Daniels wood smoking chips create the
perfect gastronomic partnership.
Combining familiarity with a brand new
culinary offering, Sun City has much to
offer both locals and visitors.
On the left, Smokey biltong spiced
sirloin and thrice-cooked fries with
pickled cabernet onions and jus. Above
is a Blue cheese, pear and candied
walnut salad on pear tatin with prickly
pear vinaigrette.
Fine dining is traditionally associated with a surplus of ingredients, an endless
number of options to create a masterpiece. But what if you were only able to use
what was in season right now? What if you had to create the same calibre of food
using only what was picked from the veggie patch this morning? Executive Chef
of Mount Nelson Hotel and Planet Restaurant, Rudi Liebenberg, chats to Culinary
Artist about the challenges – and ultimate rewards – of running a kitchen this way.
everything within
Season culinary actiViSt
Written by Helena Masters | Photographs by Romi Stoch and Tania Theron
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It’s been a process, Rudi admits, but the
last five years have proved that it is indeed
possible to structure menus around what
is currently in season. Stemming from his
dissatisfaction with the ‘fresh’ produce
he was receiving at the time, Rudi found
alternative farmers who were willing
to provide him with produce that was
picked in the morning and delivered the
same day, meaning that everything he
received was at its prime. And although
this meant that he did not have access
to produce that was not in season, he
accepted this challenge wholeheartedly.
“Over the last five years, I have
shortened the menu considerably, but
I’ve had to do it slowly, as not to ‘shock’
guests too much. But I feel that we are
moving in the right direction. At present,
we change the menu almost every third
day, based on what we get from the
farmers,” says Rudi. “I’m not dictating
the menu anymore – instead my menu is
dictated by the farmer and the climate. It
makes it a bit more challenging, but also
a lot of fun.”
Rudi now has a handful of local farmers
from whom he buys, one of his main
suppliers being a farmer based at
the back of the Spier Wine Estate in
Stellenbosch. Another supplier through
which he receives produce is Abalimi
Bezekhaya, a Khayalitsha based farming
project which provides him with three
to four boxes of 100% organic produce
per week. One of The Planet Restaurant’s
dishes is based purely on what they are
given, and this dish changes every week.
Not only do these farmers now form an
integral part of Rudi’s business (and he
an equally integral part of theirs), but
these are relationships that Rudi has
grown to value and respect immensely.
“When it comes to livestock, I feel that
this is a moral issue as well as a quality
issue. The first thing we started doing
was buying chicken that was truly free
range, and this then extended itself
to eggs, lamb and beef. This way, we
personally know the farmer who rears
the cattle and puts the eggs in the tray
– it makes a huge difference to us to
know where our food comes from and
how it was treated during the farming
process,” Rudi says.
Despite the obvious benefits of buying
organic, it isn’t cheap – in fact, it can
be twice the price of normal produce.
According to Rudi, some customers
culinary actiViSt
Biltong-dusted springbok loin, chakalaka polenta croquette, roasted carrot purée, wilted spinach, roasted onion and beetroot salad.
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don’t understand this – possibly because
they are so far removed from where their
food comes from – and justifying the
price is not always easy.
“But there are many customers who
appreciate it and who are slowly starting
to realise that our quality is different,”
he says. “At the end of the day, we know
that it’s a better product than what can
be found in the shops – we know that
there’s no genetically modified feed in
there, that it comes from an organic
source, and we know that it is truly free
range.”
Rudi is not alone in his venture to source
his own produce in order to maintain
quality and integrity. According to him,
many South African chefs are moving
in this direction, although many are still
watching the bottom line.
“The problem is that chefs become over
creative with bad ingredients. We need
to become creative by doing as little
to something as possible, using good
ingredients,” Rudi says. “We’ve realised
that one doesn’t have to buy what
the market dictates – ideally, what the
farmer says is available is what should be
on the menu.”
Poached marron with Foxenburg goat’s milk yoghurt, foraged salad, passion fruit and sour fig dressing.
Morgenster olive oil shinesMorgenster extra virgin olive oil from the Estate in
Somerset West outside Cape Town was awarded
the top score of 98 points out of a possible 100 in
the international Flos Olei 2014 competition which
assesses the world’s best olive oils.
It is one of only 11 extra virgin olive oils to have been
accorded this score. They come from Italy (seven), Spain
(two), South Africa (one - Morgenster), Chile (one).
Morgenster also received the “Made with Love”
award in the section listing the world’s 20 best farms
in the accompanying Flos Olei 2014 - a guide to the
world of extra virgin olive oil. Giulio Bertrand, owner
of Morgenster, who accepted the award, commented:
“This is the fifth year in a row that our oil has had a
top score from Flos Olei. Last year we were excited to
achieve 97 out of 100 for the fourth year in a row. But
that year Flos Olei awarded 98 points for the first time
so we set a higher objective. This year, being judged
one of only 11 oil producers in the world to achieve
98/100, the highest score ever bestowed on an oil by
such a top international panel of judges, makes me
very proud to bring this award home to South Africa”.
Bertrand believes that the potent combination of
Italian trees and expertise, an exceptional South
African terroir and a rigid approach to quality at every
stage of production have enabled Morgenster to
achieve this rare level of excellence in its olive oil.
When Bertrand moved from Italy to South Africa in
1992 and bought Morgenster, he found that good
quality extra virgin olive oil wasn’t being produced
locally. When he learnt that the farm’s terroir could
produce olive oil and wine in line with the best in the
world, he established a long-term partnership with
Prof. Giuseppe Fontanazza of the Italian Institute of
Olive Research. As a result Bertrand imported 2000
olive trees covering cultivars from the north to the
south and the islands of Italy, and established them in
his nursery. The farm now has over 50 hectares of olive
groves covering 17 Italian cultivars. Prof Fontanazza
visits Morgenster during harvest each year to ensure
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that the most up-to-date farming and
processing practices are used.
Morgenster Extra Virgin Olive Oil bursts
with multiple layers of flavour, the result of
careful blending of oils from 14 different
Italian olive cultivars grown, extracted and
bottled on the Morgenster Estate.
The Flos Olei guide recommends the Extra
Virgin Morgenster, describing its colour as
“an intense limpid golden yellow colour
with slight green hues”. It continues, saying
that “its aroma is definite and elegant,
rich in vegetal hints of freshly mown grass,
artichoke and chicory, together with distinct
notes of mint and rosemary. Its taste is full
and strong, with a flavour of thistle, lettuce
and black pepper. Bitterness and pungency
are distinct and balanced, with a sweet
almond finish.”
Morgenster Estate Tel: 021 852 1738 www.morgenster.co.za
Clockwise from top left: Morgenster Estate’s oak-lined avenue; Giulio Bertrand with
his Flos Olei award; the exquisite tasting room at Morgenster Estate.
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Michel Mellis
Written by Billy Gallagher
I recently had the pleasure of having a light lunch with relatively new
(being in South Africa only nine months) Michel Mellis, the managing
director of Unilever food solutions South Africa gaining not only his
first impressions but also his insights into serving healthier food.
captains of industry
Firstly, I must say Michel is a very
accomplished businessman with a
host of degrees and very impressive
international curriculum vitae, yet at
the same time a very charming person
- it must be the Brazilian warmth that
shines through.
I began by asking him what his initial
thoughts on South African cuisine
were and the overall standard of food
and service he has experienced so far.
Although diplomatic I found his response
refreshingly truthful. “Well, one area I
feel South Africa lags behind is in pastry
and the preparation of desserts,” said
Michel. “It is the one area that lacks
finesse and flavour - you can get a great
starter and main course, yet often be
truly disappointed with what should be
the cherry on the top of the meal, your
dessert.”
I do believe that Michel enjoys the
sweeter things in life, as I went on
to learn that he has three daughters
and lives in what he calls a feminine
dominated household. Very much the
family man, he has a holistic approach to
food and nutrition, and took little time
to explain to me Unilever’s commitment
to a healthier lifestyle.
Unilever’s Sustainable Living Plan is to
help chefs to serve healthier, tastier and
more enjoyable meals every day. “With
68% of the population in South Africa
being overweight and 33.5% considered
obese, improving the taste and nutritional
quality of our product as well as helping
chefs and operators in South Africa
deliver dishes that have a positive impact
on health and wellbeing is more than
just an obligation – it’s a passion. Our
global ambition of making 200 million
healthier meals will be realised in part
by improving the nutritional quality of
our own products; that is reducing salt,
fat, trans fat, and sugar content, as well
as by providing healthy
eating information. Any
changes we make to
our own products will
be measured against
the highest international
nutrition standards, which
are based on globally
recognised dietary
guidelines. The effect of
the training and behaviour
change work we do with
chefs and operators to
help them deliver healthier
dishes to guests is equally
important. In South Africa,
all training conducted with
chefs includes Seductive
Nutrition as part of the
training programme,” says
Michel.
The ‘Seductive Nutrition‘
campaign is an initiative
created by Unilever Food
Solutions that encourages
chefs and operators to
make small changes
to their top dishes —
making them healthier
but still really appealing to
consumers. It helps chefs
to run a more efficient
kitchen and reduce their
waste, and helping chefs
improve their efficiency is an area which
receives a great deal of attention in
South Africa, primarily through the
development of recipes, products and
services that help chefs run a more
efficient kitchen; this is offered through
Unilever Food Solutions’ various
campaigns.
Mellis says, “Our food service industry
in South Africa feeds millions of people
daily. With scale comes responsibility.
Tackling big sustainability issues has to
be a priority for the foodservice industry
in South Africa, not because we say
so, or because it’s a nice thing to do,
but because it is the only way we can
continue to grow as an industry.”
After listening to Michel speaking so
enthusiastically about a healthy future,
I felt good that I had just eaten a light
salad for lunch and that I had been
given the opportunity to share an hour
with this passionate captain of industry,
someone I believe is going to have a big
impact in the foodservice industry.
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Whilst the Square has always been his focus, Phil has
also enjoyed great success with his 3 other London-
based ventures, 2 starred The Ledbury in Notting Hill,
where his former protege and now business partner
Brett Graham heads up the kitchen, and Kitchen W8,
where he quickly caught the eye of MIchelin and
was rewarded with another star. Closer to home,
he has a more relaxed and family orientated Sonny’s
Kitchen, in Barnes. Coming full circle however, he
is currently refocusing all his energies back on The
Square “I want to take The Square to the very top –
it’s been on the cusp for some time, but now I want
to take it all the way, as far as I possibly can,” says
Phil. “We have an abundance of fresh new energy
and passion, with a new Head Chef, a new General
Manager and The Square itself will be undergoing
a refurbishment later this year, so we feel we are
setting off on a new and exciting journey”.
“London has become unbelievably competitive,”
says Phil. “The most important thing to me is that
The Square, its cooking and the overall product
that we offer remains absolutely relevant in the
London dining scene. We all want to feel that our
product is in demand.” In order to achieve this, Phil
believes that the restaurant needs to be the very
best of its type - “Realistically I think we can go to
an even higher plenitude, and that is what we are
now working towards – but without sacrificing the
restaurant’s current philosophy. I have no intention
of changing what we do, but I want it to be a little
more strategic.”
Surprisingly, after leaving a degree in Microbiology
for life behind the stove, Chef Howard isn’t moved
by molecular cuisine. He describes his style of
cooking as straightforward, applying a combination
of traditional and contemporary cooking techniques
to classical combinations of flavour. The end result
is honest and organic rather than complicated and
technical.
He believes that far too many chefs aren’t cooking
seasonally and that they’re not focusing on what the
dish will taste like. “So many chefs get preoccupied
with what it’s going to look like, whether it’s
modern…they worry about the temperature it was
cooked at, the techniques used when, actually, the
most important thing to worry about is whether the
food is going to deliver pleasure. Food can deliver
pleasure in a completely unique way and, based
on a lot of eating, I’ve found that a lot of food
has lost that,” says Phil. “It’s sad that many chefs
have forgotten about the final eating experience.
We’re creative people, but sometimes we get a bit
distracted by our creativity.”
Phil believes that the world of judgement is, in part,
to blame, “Whether it’s guides, food bloggers, critics,
they all seem determined to heap so much praise on
über modern cooking. I don’t hear people walking
around talking about how delicious the food was,
and I think that’s a real shame. If you want to be a
really modern cook, that’s fantastic, but first it has to
be really delicious. If the techniques and presentation
are also great, then that’s great too.”
Outside of the kitchen, Chef Howard wants
“everything in life.” He says that, “I have lots of
passions – running, skiing, family. I spend a lot of
time at work, but when I’m not there I want to spend
time with my family. Maybe one day I’ll even take on
the Comrades!”
It’s inspiring to see a chef focus on the purpose of
cooking - delicious food and happy guests. With
those two elements in place, the awards can’t be far
behind.
chefs in action
Phil Howard has been on London’s restaurant scene for over 20 years, quietly carving out a well-respected
name for himself in the culinary world. These days you can find him back in his first restaurant, the two-
Michelin starred The Square, working in the kitchen and ensuring that all meets his exacting eye.
the chef’s chef
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chefs in action
A closer look at the culinary delights from The Square’s kitchen
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On the left: Warm salad of beetroot
with rice wine vinegar, sheep’s curd and
granola. This page, Sauté of Scottish
langoustine tails with parmesan gnocchi
and an emulsion of potato and truffle;
Bitter chocolate and praline pavé with
olive oil caviar.
The Square
6-10 Bruton Street
Mayfair, London
+44 (0) 20 7495 7100
www.squarerestaurant.com
To get in touch with Phil Howard, you
can reach him through his agent Kirstin
Stanley-Hughes on [email protected]
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culinary Milestone
Silver anniversaryWritten by Anton Mosimann
Friendship is celebrated by sharing experiences whilst enjoying good food and fine wine. During the
past twenty-five years Mosimann’s has been witness to many such occasions. I have never for one
moment regretted establishing Mosimann’s. Many said that a club was a mistake, as I could not bring
my two Michelin stars. For me, the crucial thing was the sense of belonging. Members have become
valued friends: I relish welcoming them back, sharing their guilty food secrets and seeing the delight in
their eyes when their dish is presented. During this past quarter-century London has endured recessions
and yet, with loyal members who continued to frequent the club during those difficult years, we are
as strong as ever.
Chef Anton Mosimann recently celebrated his eponymous restaurant’s 25th anniversary. Here, in his
own words, he discusses the club’s history as well as its philosophy.
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On the left, is Chef Anton with his wife Kathryn
and on this page Chef Anton Mosimann
selecting mushrooms at a local market.
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The other essential ingredient at the club is the staff.
Any business is only as good as the team. I consider
myself very lucky to have such loyal and dedicated
individuals contributing to the winning formula of
Mosimann’s. Some have been here since we first opened
the doors; others followed me from the Dorchester, and
still others have come from all over the United Kingdom
and indeed the world.
The tension in the kitchen can rise like a crescendo twice
each day. The essential lunch and dinner performances
are critical, as you never get a second chance to make
a first impression. I will not tolerate any swearing or
bad temper in the kitchen. I strongly believe that more
can be achieved through calmness, understanding
and communication. When the Daily Mail’s Weekend
magazine featured me in a cover story with the headline
culinary Milestone
Mackerel in cider sauce
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‘The Last Gentleman Chef’, I was very
flattered.
Anyone can do anything; but it is the
USP that really gives you the potential to
stand out from the crowd. So it was with
Mosimann’s. I knew immediately, on first
seeing the Scottish Presbyterian church,
that I could make it into something
amazing. I was one of the first to
approach luxury brands to sponsor
private dining rooms, and our seven
rooms are really something special.
People inspire me and that is why I find
travelling so enlightening. Whether it is
in Berlin, Brisbane or Bangkok, to meet
local people and visit daily markets, taste
street food and see ingredients, really
get back to basics. Once back in the
club’s kitchen, I apply a little Mosimann
magic to the dishes that the locals have
taught me. I am also very fortunate in
that I have trained so many chefs that
invariably, wherever I am in the world,
one of my protégés will be running the
best restaurant; I see both sides of the
coin, wherever I am!
Both my sons are now running
Mosimann’s. They have brought a new
energy and new ideas to the business,
but I have no intention of retiring. I
enjoy what I do too much, and cannot
imagine stopping; I believe that it is very
unhealthy for a chef to retire! I love
to watch my grandchildren, the next
generation, as they develop their taste
for good food. I am sure that it will
not be long before they too will be in
the business, and I have no doubt that
they will play a crucial role in the club’s
fiftieth anniversary celebrations.
On the left: Anton with his two sons,
Philipp and Mark; On this page,
Steamed tofu.
27
There are some business decisions that
make perfect sense. Opening a Reuben’s
restaurant in the West Coast fishing /
holiday village of Paternoster is one of them.
Late October last year saw the opening of
the fourth restaurant to bear the name of
Franschhoek-born Reuben Riffel. Situated
within the funky five-star Abalone House
boutique guesthouse, the new venue (the
others are in Franschhoek, Cape Town and
Robertson) offers bistro-style dining with
an emphasis on sourcing and preparing
quality local produce.
“It’s something I’ve wanted to do for a
long, long time,” admits the genial Riffel.
“I have a ‘connection’ with Paternoster: I
went there often as a kid and have always
found it to be a very special place…
somewhere I can switch off and enjoy
time with my young family.”
Tongue-in-cheek, he insists that the new
restaurant “will not try to be the best
in Paternoster. We just want to add to
the dining experience.” Reuben’s at
Abalone House is run by 26-year-old
Aviv Liebenberg. The son of a sculptor,
Liebenberg grew up in Wellington and,
just after matriculating, joined at Silwood
Kitchen although he had already been
accepted by the electrical engineering
faculty at the University of Cape Town.
“During my first year at Silwood – it was
in the June holidays of 2005 – I did my
three-week in-service practical at Reuben’s
restaurant in Franschhoek.
“It was the first kitchen I’d ever worked
in. To be honest, up until then I wasn’t
even certain that I really wanted to be in
Star chef finds a bolt-hole
by the seachefs in action
2828
this industry. Then I felt the adrenaline…
getting ready for service, being on your
feet for 12 to 14 hours at a stretch,
getting one day a week off work if you
were lucky … and I started getting excited
about the life.”
Further in-service placements at Terroir
at Stellenbosch’s Kleine Zalze, and the
Alphen Hotel and Cape Grace in the
Mother City during his second year
confirmed his passion. While working at
Bouillabaisse in Franschhoek, Liebenberg
resumed his friendship with Reuben
Riffel. It was about the time the latter
was considering opening a restaurant in
Robertson.
Riffel asked Liebenberg to oversee the
project from scratch in June 2009.
Reuben’s at the Robertson Small Hotel
opened its doors less than three months
later with Liebenberg as executive chef.
A year later, Riffel asked him to assist in
opening at One&Only Cape Town.
“Of course I said ‘yes’,” laughs Aviv.
Grilled crayfish and mussel risotto with chilli and basil
2929
chefs in action
30
For Abalone House & Spa restaurant
and accommodation bookings on
(27) (22) 752 2044; email
[email protected] or visit
www.abalonehouse.co.za.
“It was a whole different operation
coming from a 10-room boutique hotel
where the restaurant only seated 30
people. I worked as ‘second-in-command’
to Maritz Jacobs but found myself working
almost exclusively on the operational side
of cheffing – managing people. It was
hectic and I didn’t really enjoy myself.”
Now, following a successful stint working
with Richard Carstens at Tokara Restaurant
in Stellenbosch, Aviv finds himself teamed
up with Riffel again.
“This is a very similar set-up to Robertson,”
he says of Reuben’s at Abalone House.
Liebenberg’s cooking style tends towards
subtle complexity; multiple layers of
flavour and experience without being
over-complicated or overpowering.
It’s a style, he believes, that perfectly
complements both the Reuben’s bistro-
style menu as well as West Coast produce.
“This is not a place of big, bold flavours.”
Paternoster’s distance from Cape Town
– 150 kilometres – is a challenge as well
as a boon to Liebenberg. “There’s no way
suppliers from Cape Town can deliver
daily, which makes me very reliant on
what I can source locally. Portion-control is
critical but it also means that the menu is
extremely flexible.”
Liebenberg says Riffel gives him “lots of
leeway” when it comes to drawing up
the menu but insists he closely follows
the strict guidelines of cooking style and
presentation.
There are a number of Reuben’s
signature dishes on the menu – chilli
salted squid and soy-braised pork belly,
for instance – but others are rapidly
becoming identifiable as Liebenberg’s
own specialties. “I do a double-baked
aged cheddar soufflé on top of a smoked
snoek cream and accompanied by a
pickled tomato and onion salad that I
think is quite spectacular.
West Coast mains are “a lot
more challenging: you can’t offer
denningvleis [Cape Malay-style lamb
knuckles] on a Reuben’s menu but you
could do local side-dishes prepared
with our own twist”.
Unsurprisingly, Reuben’s at Abalone
House tends strongly towards seafood
… and not just the West Coast rock-
lobster and mussels that are synonymous
with Paternoster. Liebenberg is
particularly pleased about sourcing
stompneus and smoked mackerel from
Saldanha, and farmed kabeljou right on
the restaurant’s doorstep. “Whenever
we run out,” he quips, “I send a waiter
across the road for another.”
His personal favourite, however, is
smoked mackerel with apple, horse-
radish, daikon, potato and walnut.
Another local delight is Alta Nel’s Altwic
Cottage organic cheese range. Made
from both goat’s and cow’s milk, the
range includes Gouda, cheddar, blue
cheese, gruyere, chevin, camembert,
labnah and feta. “They’re wonderful
for use in summer salads with beetroot,
cumin and oranges.”
Liebenberg has also struck up a
friendship with Kobus van der Merwe,
owner of Paternoster’s Oep ve Koep
bistro, from whom he has learned the
art of foraging for “veldkos” such as
samphire, wild radish and soutslaai.
“I sometimes use these to add local
integrity to a dish,” he says. “There’s
also veldkool, which is a type of wild
asparagus that can be pickled or
sautéed.”
While Reuben’s at Abalone House
caters predominantly for tourists and
residents, Liebenberg says “locals” are
beginning to show their appreciation
by travelling from Langebaan, Saldanha
and Vredenburg. “We give them a no-
frills, value-for-money dining experience
that they won’t find anywhere else on
the West Coast.”
Clockwise from bottom left: Chef
Aviv Liebenberg; Dark chocolate pavé,
ginger mousse with strawberry and
mint granite; Biltong-spiced beef tartar,
yoghurt, cape Malay dressing with a
caper and sultana salad.
31
32
33
STUFFED ARTICHOKESWITH LAMB MINCE Serves 6
INGREDIENTS:2 jars Goldcrest whole marinated artichokes 100ml dried bread crumbs 100g lamb mince5g fresh mint60ml grated parmesan60ml chopped flat-leaf parsley leaves 10ml Goldcrest salt 5ml freshly ground Goldcrest black pepper 10ml Goldcrest minced garlic 5 tbsp. olive oil
METHOD:1. Preheat oven to 180oC 2. Remove the artichokes from the jars and place them into
a baking dish facing stem down tightly packed so that they do not fall over. Use a spoon to create a cavity in the middle of each artichoke for the stuffing to be placed into – make sure it is of a reasonable size.
3. In a bowl, combine breadcrumbs, meat, mint, half the parmesan, parsley, salt, pepper, and garlic. Use a small teaspoon to place this mixture into the center cavity of each artichoke. Drizzle with olive oil and top with the remaining cheese.
4. Bake for 30 minutes until the cheese is golden brown and the meat is just cooked through.
CHEFS NOTE: This dish can be enjoyed as a stunning entrée or served as a main course if more 3 – 5 artichokes are served per person. It can be made up ahead of time and baked off just before serving.
So very so-fizz-ticated
Over the years Graham Beck cellarmaster and SA’s undisputed Bubbly Boss has been asked
countless times “what defines a truly outstanding Cap Classique?” The answer he replies
is as simple as this: “It’s when you ask for that second bottle!”
A truly ‘world class’ Cap Classique is the result of favourable vintage conditions and reflects
stricter fruit selection and the utmost care in the cellar in the pursuit of even greater
excellence. “That’s the academic response, but most importantly to us producers it’s the
reaction from the consumer,” explains Pieter. It was the great Napoleon himself who said:
the Wine Guys
Pieter “Bubbles” Ferreira, South Africa’s Fizz Meister,
explains his enduring love affair with all things bubbly.
Written by Nicolette Waterford
34
35
“In victory you deserve Champagne, in
defeat, you need it”. This couldn’t be more
apt in these turbulent times! A good bubbly
is truly the perfect drink for all occasions.
Pieter’s love affair with MCC style sparkling
wines started early on in his winemaking
career. The bubbly bug bit hard and
wouldn’t let go as his innate admiration
for the universal charm of this challenging
style of wine took hold. He credits his
microbiology background with helping
him to understand and appreciate the
finer nuances of crafting Cap Classique.
Three vintages in Champagne, France,
and various overseas study tours provided
plenty of opportunities to hone Pieter’s
natural affinity for this specialised and
exacting craft.
He joined Graham Beck’s Robertson Cellar
in 1990. Surprised by the intrinsic quality
of the base wines even in those early
days, Pieter and his team worked hard
at establishing a solid platform for MCC
style wines. “As South Africans we have
to embrace our sunshine,” he maintains.
“Our first Non Vintage was released in
1993 and we’ve never looked back!” After
years of refining their focus and honing
their clonal selection, site selection and
vineyard and cellar practices the team is
reaping the rewards.
“I really try and capture the fruit characteristics
of any particular variety. It’s always my aim to
contribute elegance and finesse. The wines
are never ‘in your face’,” he explains. “At
the end of the day you should be drinking
the authentic style of the wines, not aiming
for showmanship. With bubbly it’s even
more vital to create that finesse and delicacy.
The smaller you can create that bubble, the
better the chances that the wine will develop
gentle flavours.”
He and his team are continuously fine
tuning their craft, constantly setting the
bar higher in their pursuit of excellence.
“I’m still in search of the perfect bubble
and, until then, I’ll keep refining. The
challenge of consistency and continuity
in sparkling wines is vital,” maintains this
gifted vintner.
The allures of a sparkling wine are myriad
explains Pieter. Bubbly oozes sophistication
while at the same time it remains hip and
trendy. “We have all become so bogged
down in everyday survival that just one
glass, anytime of day never fails in lifting
the spirits, cleansing the palate and
stimulating both conversation and the
taste buds. No longer is it stowed away
for special celebrations or occasions, it has
become a lifestyle drink,” he maintains
with his trademark twinkle in the eye.
Moral of the story then…always stash a
bottle of your favourite Graham Beck Cap
Classique in the fridge – you never know
when you might need it!
When it comes to giving Champagne
and the so called ‘real deal’ cuvées out
there a run for their money, Graham Beck
Wines and the many other top local Cap
Classique producers are proving that South
Africa has got what it takes in the bubbly
stakes. “We’ve developed a uniquely
home grown, ‘New World’ style, while
remaining true to the essence, technique
and tradition of fine fizz,” says Pieter with
characteristic modesty.
Judging by the impressive haul of bling
these stellar bubblies bring home in terms of
local and international wine competitions,
Pieter and his passionate band of bubbly
alchemists are consistently making waves
when it comes to creating iconic MCC’s
and cementing our reputation as world
leaders in this revered and rarefied art.
36
a life in Pastry
Written by Ruth Hinks
Having just competed in the World Chocolate Masters
in Paris, I now find myself at the end of a journey
which began a long time ago. I’m only now starting
to realise how far it has come. Being selected to
represent the UK at the World Chocolate Masters
is a great honour. The past year has been intense,
but it has also been one of the most exciting and
fulfilling periods of my life.
The World Chocolate Masters is an excellent
competition which offers a number of unique
services to the industry. Firstly, it provides an
opportunity for professional chocolatiers and
pastry chefs to compete for the ultimate industry
prize - being crowned World Chocolate Master.
In creating this competition, the event organisers
(Callebaut, Cacao Barry and Carma) have also
Master Patissier
37
established a leading trade exhibition through which
industry professionals can access the latest equipment
and ingredients. Thirdly, and perhaps most importantly,
the World Chocolate Masters plays an important
function in inspiring the next generation of chocolatiers
and pastry chefs.
As the current UK World Chocolate Master, I feel that part
of my role is to provide an insight to those considering a
career in this industry. This article, therefore, is for those
who are either starting out or are making early career
decisions. It is not an attempt to persuade, rather an
honest summary of my experiences and learning over
the last 25 years.
The past five years or so has seen an unprecedented
growth in the level of public interest in pastry and
chocolate. These trends have (in part) been driven by
the popularity of TV shows such as The Great British
Bake Off and the recent emergence of good quality
artisan chocolatiers across the UK. With public interest
in the industry on a high, it is unsurprising that there are
many who are now considering careers as chocolatiers,
pastry chefs and confectioners.
Above is Ruth’s layered cake entry.
the Wine Guys
So, to those of you considering a career
in chocolate and pastry, my first piece
of advice is to determine your level of
passion for this type of work. It is not the
easiest of professions (although few are
these days) and the hours can be long,
particularly in the early years. If you’re
unsure whether this is the career for
you, or you have not had any experience
upon which to base your decision,
then I’d recommend that you book
yourself onto a short course at a good
chocolate school or seek experience in a
professional pastry kitchen.
At Cocoa Black we run a Chocolate &
Pastry School which offers classes for
beginners to professional chefs. Over
the past three years we’ve welcomed
over 3000 students and home baking
enthusiasts from around the world and
I’ve had the privilege of teaching many
of them. For most, the classes are a
bit of fun - a chance to pick up a few
professional skills which can be applied
at home. For some, however, it is clear
that the passion burns bright and they
leave with clarity in their minds over
which direction they wish to take their
careers.
If you find yourself with an insatiable
desire to work in the industry, then my
recommendation would be to gain some
experience either at a culinary college or
at a good hotel or restaurant, preferable
one which employs a competent pastry
chef. It may be difficult in the beginning,
but as your career progresses and you
become more confident, you should aim
to work with and learn from the very
best and be prepared to travel in order
to do so.
When I started out as a schoolgirl in
South Africa, I was making regular phone
calls to top chocolatiers in Europe. My
parents’ bemusement soon turned to
surprise, however, when one summer I
Master Patissier
38
39
announced that I was packing my bags
and heading off for a few weeks of work
experience in France.
By following talent, you’re doing two
things - firstly you will be developing
professional skills which one day may
allow you to take on a role as Head Pastry
Chef or to start your own business.
Secondly, you’ll begin to develop a
network of professional contacts who,
like you, are professionally savvy and
understand the importance of being
surrounded by talent. Remember, you
can only ever be as good as the person
you’ve learned from.
If you work hard at your skills and
developing your professional contacts
you will begin to gain recognition in
the industry. With a few years of good
experience, you may decide to join a
large hotel or restaurant. Again, you
should be prepared to travel as many of
the smaller hotels and restaurants have
limited staffing budgets and cannot
afford the services of a pastry chef.
Above is Ruth spraypainting an element of the showpiece and on the left is Ruth’s completed showpiece.
The other option at this point is to start
a business, however, please be aware
this requires a very different skill set and
you will likely spend as much time in the
office as you do in the kitchen.
When we launched Cocoa Black in
2009, we knew it would involve a lot of
hard work (four years of hard work as it
turned out), but we felt that we had the
right product and were keen to give it a
go. To those seeking to take this route,
I’d recommend gaining some business
experience and taking a short business
course which should help you to avoid
many of the common pitfalls.
Whilst not for everyone, I’ve always
found chef competitions to be great
fun. They provide an opportunity to
test yourself against your peers and to
meet the leading talent in the industry.
They are also regularly attended by
trade exhibitors and buyers who you
should make every effort to get to
know. During the course of my career,
I’ve been lucky enough to compete
at many levels (regional, national and
international) and have met many truly
inspirational people along the way.
Should you decide to give competition
a try, I’d recommend you approach one
of the leading industry associations
who should be able to point you in the
right direction.
To summarise, a career as a chocolatier
or pastry chef can provide exciting
opportunities for those willing to
learn the skills. The good jobs can
be hard to come by and may involve
travel, but if you have the passion, the
determination and have developed the
industry contacts, you’ll be half way
there before you know it.
As your career progresses, the door
to opportunity will open further. With
opportunities come career choices and
with career choices comes the great
adventure - professional success is
often not too far behind.
Mar
tin C
hiff
ers
Phot
ogra
phy
40
Chef Benny Masekwameng gets a masterclass in
margarines and shortenings from the
Hudson & Knight team
In an ongoing campaign to drive excellence, Sime Darby Hudson & Knight continues its Masters series with a focus on margarines and shortenings. After a successful Cooking meets Baking campaign, the company has expanded its relationship with captains of industry to include Chef Benny Masekwameng.
41
Sime Darby Hudson & Knight’s partnership with Benny recently saw him receiving a masterclass in the margarines and shortenings that the company specialise in. Master Bakers Jos van Achter and Graham Jehoma were there to bring the Chef up to speed with the different products, their uses in both bakery and kitchen, as well as the benefits that come from using each product. Stay tuned for the delicious results of this exciting partnership.
“When I opened the packaging of the Mastercraft White and Mastercraft Yellow I noticed a distinct difference between it and other margarines that I had used before – Mastercraft just smells
fresher and cleaner, and it’s obviously a higher quality product.” Benny Masekwameng
Customer Careline: 0860 465 312 | www.hudsonandknight.co.za
42
Do you know the way to
chardonnay?Written by Emile Joubert
“I can only ascribe my dogged commitment
to making Chardonnay an integral part
of the South African wine landscape to
one thing, and that is my tongue,” says
Danie. “When I left South Africa to study
wine-making at the Geisenheim Institute
in Germany during the 1970’s, the local
white wine offering was largely limited
to big-yield varieties such as Chenin,
Palmino and Sémillon, in those days none
of which were really receiving focussed
vinification or public recognition other
than every-day drinkability. In Germany I
was introduced to fine white wines made
from noble varieties such as Riesling
and Chardonnay, and the latter just
captured my imagination: the more my
palate was introduced to Chardonnay,
the more I knew that the South African
wine landscape needed this wine in its
portfolio.”
Johann, Danie and Peter de Wet
the Wine Guys
Reputation is not bought, borrowed or stolen. It is earned. The fact that De Wetshof Estate
in Robertson is recognised as the leading producer of South African Chardonnay, the noble
Burgundian grape variety which arguably makes the greatest white wines in the world, is
the result of three decades of committed passion, exhaustive scientific research, fiercely hard
work and the pioneering spirit that Danie de Wet has become known for.
43
But the light-bulb moment was made
more exciting for Danie by the fact that as
a second-generation wine-farmer on De
Wetshof Estate in Robertson and knowing
the soils and climate of the area like the
back of his hand, he knew that De Wetshof
and Robertson were capable of producing
top-class Chardonnays.
To enforce this point, the visitor to De
Wetshof showing an interest in the Estate’s
Chardonnay legacy will be bundled into a
bakkie and with Danie or one of his sons
Peter or Johann at the wheel, be driven
around the farm to see why soil, climate
and vineyard site are the driving factors in
the farm’s Chardonnay production and the
nature of the portfolio of various wines.
“Chardonnay was not made famous in
Burgundy over centuries for nothing,” says
Danie as we negotiate a steep incline leading
to a vantage point where the vineyard
layout can be seen from. “The Burgundians
understand better than anyone else that no
vineyard – not even sections of a vineyard –
will produce wines with the same structure
and flavour profile. The reason? Chardonnay
reflects the geographical and physical
location of the vineyard like no other variety,
and this is the beauty and excitement of the
grape – not to mention the challenge.”
And also the reason why you will not find
one Chardonnay on De Wetshof, but rather
five distinctly different wines all made from
the same grape variety. “We call it site
specific,” says Danie and points over the
vineyards which in early summer display a
vivid leafy greenness.
“In the valley below the soil composition
changes every few square metres and
will subsequently affect the grapes in a
different way, leading to differences in the
wines,” he says. “Closer to the Breede
River, soils have a higher clay content.
These denser soils lead to broader, fuller
wines.” He turns to the right, away from
the river to a dry ridge. “On that side the
vineyards are planted in rockier, stony soils
which will bring a vibrant minerality to the
wines with citrus, floral flavours.”
There is, however, one very important feature
of the Robertson Valley’s soil composition,
one which initially led Danie to be convinced
Chardonnay could find a suitable home
here. “We have the highest free limestone
content in the Cape winelands,” says Danie
and picks up a brittle, shale rock. “Limestone
is a marvellous soil component for a wine
farmer as it brings structure to the wine by
creating a good balance between pH and
acidity. Burgundy, with its tremendously high
limestone soil content, is not for nothing the
greatest Chardonnay region on earth.”
“Although we produce a selection of wines
made from other grape varieties, I see De
Wetshof as a Chardonnay house,” says
Johann. “Especially in today’s competitive
wine environment with more wine brands
and labels you can list in your computer
hard-drive, focus and speciality is the key.
And our focus and speciality is Chardonnay,
and will always be Chardonnay.”
The five wines include two unwooded
Chardonnays – Bon Vallon and Limestone
Hill. On the wooded, fuller side there
is the Finesse, The Site and the iconic
Bateleur, internationally regarded as one
of South Africa’s finest Chardonnays. A
sniff and taste through the range definitely
vindicated Danie’s decision all those years
ago to maintain a site-specific approach to
Chardonnay. For these are five completely
different wines – all clearly Chardonnay, but
every one displaying its own set of aromas
and flavour components reflecting the
origin of the specific vineyard from where
each wine’s grape originate from.
noble rotIt’s grey, cobwebby and not exactly appealing to look at, yet when it appears in the vineyards, it fills wine-growers with intense jubilation. Noble rot or botrytis cinerea is a cousin of the much loathed and highly destructive grey rot but unlike its malevolent relative, when it attacks grapes it transforms them into something magical.
connoisseur’s corner
Written by Melissa Diedericks
44
1969 and ever since then the only way
it can be purchased is on the annual
Nederburg Auction.
Since 2001 Edelkeur has been made
by the highly celebrated cellar master,
Razvan Macici and has earned very
many accolades. Luckily, he also makes
another acclaimed wine in this style under
Nederburg’s popular Winemaster’s Reserve
label, that’s more readily available. It’s the
delight of the critics with appealing dried
apricot and peach characters, a touch of
pineapple, ginger, some marzipan and
honey, lifted by that special core of acidity
that also lengthens its palate.
Nederburg Winemaster’s Reserve Noble
Late Harvest has been extensively
decorated with every vintage from 2008
to 2012 rated five stars by Platter’s South
African Wine Guide. The 2011 vintage
was also scored 93 by leading British critic
Tim Atkin MW while the 2012 vintage
won a trophy at the International Sweet
Wine Challenge. An absolute must-try,
its extraordinary combination of luscious
yet restrained sweetness is an exceptional
experience.
There is another Nederburg wine that
has an even longer Platter’s five-star
track record. Every vintage to date of the
eight-way Ingenuity White blend, led by
Sauvignon Blanc, has been rated five stars
since its maiden 2007 vintage.
The 2012 blend is big, bold and layered,
and cleverly tamed by careful wooding.
Other varieties featured are Semillon,
Chardonnay, Riesling, Chenin Blanc,
Viognier, Verdelho and a soupçon of
Gewürztraminer.
Fresh green and aromatic fragrances with
notes of peach and spice open onto a
crisp but creamy palate with a floral, spicy
hint. An immensely versatile and food-
friendly wine, it’s commanding enough to
stand up to seafood and poultry but also
lamb and beef.
There’s a new international excitement
about South African wines and much of
the focus is on our blended whites. When
you taste this wine, you’ll understand
exactly why.
Noble late harvest wines are highly prized
in Europe. Names like Sauterne, Trocken-
beerenauslese and Tokaj send connoisseurs
into raptures. These are rich and complex
wines of remarkable longevity, renowned
for their nectar-like sweetness balanced
by lively acidity. They are savoured with
pâtés, with salty blue-veined cheeses and
with fruity desserts. Sometimes they are
the dessert!
What makes them so alluring to wine
lovers is not only their honey aromas and
tastes, but also their rarity. They can only
be made when noble rot strikes and that
depends on a very specific set of climatic
conditions. You need early morning
mists that burn off as the sun rises and
a very delicate balance between moisture
and warmth. Too much humidity can be
damaging to the grapes. Too much heat
will also ruin the extraordinary act of
nature taking place in the vineyards.
When grapes are attacked by the noble rot
fungus they become dehydrated, losing
more than half their moisture content,
resulting in an intense concentration of
flavours. The berries first turn golden and
then pink or purple, eventually browning
and shrivelling. The rot consumes some
of the sugar and the acid present in
the grapes but their spectacular, sweet
intensity and zesty acidity remain.
As the rot does not affect all the grapes on
a vine or bunch simultaneously, it’s often
necessary to go through the vineyards
a few times (called tries) to pick the
individual berries at optimal levels. This
requires meticulous patience and also
great skill in knowing exactly when to
harvest each berry. If left too long, the
fungus can take over the fruit completely.
Noble late harvest wines in South Africa
were pioneered by Nederburg. The
very first vintage of the now legendary
Edelkeur was made by Günter Brözell in
Razvan Macici and Günter Brözel
45
chef chantel discovers europe’s finest
hof van cleve
Every year, Chef Chantel Dartnall closes Restaurant Mosaic when winter is
at its fiercest to spend her holidays eating at some of Europe’s finest culinary
establishments. This year she included the renowned 3 Michelin star Hof van
Cleve in Belgium and found inspirational food of the highest order…
chefs in action
Chef Peter Goossens is often referred to as one of the Godfathers of modern
Belgium cuisine and is a master of contemporary culinary artistry. At his restaurant,
situated on a farm in Kruishoutem at the edge of the Flemish Ardennes, he has
been dubbed “a composer of flavours” thanks to his purist and highly creative
compositions. Goossens attended the Ter Duinen College of Hotel Management
in Belgium and, after graduation, moved to Paris where he worked in a number
of restaurants before returning to Belgium and Hof van Cleve. In 1993, he was
crowned Belgium’s best executive chef and in 1994, at the age of 30, he received
the ultimate accolade: his first Michelin star.
Written by Chantel Dartnall | Photographs of dishes by Jean-Pierre Gabriel
46
47
Shortly after, in 1998, he was awarded a second Michelin star –
one of the youngest chefs anywhere to be singled out in this way.
Goossens’ artistry did not go unnoticed and the prestigious Gault
Millau Restaurant Guide awarded him 19.5 out of 20 points in
2004 – a rating maintained to the present day.
The very next year Goossens was awarded his third Michelin
star. On arrival, Hof van Cleve looks like any other farmhouse
in the area with freshly ploughed fields surrounding the house.
Entering the building, visitors are led through what was clearly
the farmhouse’s previous veranda, into the minimalist dining
room with crisp white walls and terracotta floors, with the few
accents of colour coming from the contemporary Belgium art
adorning the walls.
Goossens is a chef who has a very exact philosophy about
sustainability and supporting local producers. All of his fresh
produce is sourced within a 50 km radius of the restaurant and,
although he has enough farmland surrounding the restaurant to
be able to produce his own fruit and vegetables, he prefers to
and feels strongly about supporting local producers. Even the fish
presented on his seasonal menus comes from specific anglers from
the North Sea, which is only 40 km away from the restaurant. Not
surprisingly even the cutlery, crockery, vases, stemware – and staff
uniforms - are made by local Belgium producers.
The Sommelier leads Chef Peter’s front of house team and it is
evident that he shares the same philosophy, having gone through
an extensive process to source some unique wines for their cellar
and during our dining experience, the wines selected with each
dish of our exceptional seven course tasting menu continuously
surprised us.
What characterises Goossens’ cooking is his intricate yet easy
to understand techniques. Tied to the produce of the North Sea
and his immediate surrounding region, Goossens is a master in
the use of unusual combinations. Yet, these are always used in
On the first page is Seabass, algae and
passionfruit. On the left is Chef Peter
Goossens, and above is Langoustine,
beetroot and avocado.
48
subtle ways. Amongst one of his
most impressive dishes is ravioli of
ox cheeks and langoustine with Paris
mushrooms and Piment d’Espelette
(a variety of chili pepper). What
seems like a wild combination of very
different flavours is in reality a well-
balanced culinary tour de force.
Goossens loves to send his guests on
a journey around different flavours,
textures and temperatures: “Cooking
is art, science and craft” is his
motto. In explaining his philosophy
to me, I found a lesson for all chefs
everywhere and for me in particular:
“In order to cook at the highest
level every day and guarantee an
exceptional experience for our
guests, it is important that the interior
of our restaurant exudes the same
traditional spirit and identity that the
kitchen does. Our preparations are,
after all, in my opinion, the result of
a great deal of effort at various levels.
We handle the best local products
that the gardeners, farmers, growers,
anglers, hunters and cheese refiners
can provide.
Out of respect for their passionate
work and thanks to their fantastic
ingredients, we are able to provide
our guests with a unique culinary
experience. This makes cooking
a true craft. Chefs need to draw
their inspiration from everyday life,
from their own experiences and by
travelling. It is important to focus
on your environment and what is
available and in season - then the
inspiration will follow!”
chefs in action
On this page, Granny smith, cucumber and
coriander, and on the top right is Sardine,
radish, spring onion and cucumber.
48
49
“When planning a menu it is important
to look at the richness and heaviness of
each dish. I do not use a lot of cream and
butter in my food. Although I like both of
the ingredients very much, it is important
to use them in moderation.”
I asked him if he believed that certain
ingredients that have been ignored in the
past few years are now making a return to
the culinary scene.
“When I started as a young chef in Paris
vegetables didn’t form part of the main
dish and you had to order green beans
or spinach as a side dish. Vegetables now
play a very important role, especially in my
food, and are integrated as part of the
dish.”
Goossens firmly believes that chefs have
to travel to stay ahead of the game and to
broaden their own horizons.
“I do use Oriental ingredients in my food
but it is not fusion. I focus on the taste and
flavour I want to present.
With dishes, such as the Wagyu beef
with Shimeji mushrooms and seaweed
broth, the total dish reflects the Oriental
flavours I discovered on my journeys.
These ingredients are used to enhance the
flavour of the dish and not to become the
main focus.”
Chantel Dartnall has become renowned,
not only in South Africa but in culinary
circles around the world, for her
innovative and meticulous approach to
modern fine dining. She is the award-
winning patron chef at Restaurant
Mosaic, located in The Orient Private
Hotel in the Francolin Conservation
Area, Elandsfontein, Crocodile River
Valley, Pretoria, Gauteng.
Tel: +27 12 371 2902,
www.restaurantmosaic.com
Goossens’ food and attention to detail
ensures that the meal comes close to
perfection. If you have the chance to dine
there, do not miss it.
50
centre of learning
teaching tomorrow’s chefs
From its humble beginnings in a cramped office in Johannesburg, Hospitality Trainers and Associates (HTA) has
grown from strength to strength and now, under the leadership of Stephen Billingham, is one of the top chef
training institutes in South Africa.
HTA was originally founded in 1996 by a group
of professional trainers and coaches within the
hospitality industry, each one an expert in a particular
division of hospitality. Stephen Billingham brought
his background in chef training to the partnership,
having worked as a chef in a number of five star
establishments before taking the role as head
lecturer at Apex Training Centre in the early nineties.
Over the years, the original partners separated and
went their own ways, leaving Stephen with the
opportunity to focus all of his energies and resources
into chef training. HTA saw its first major chef training
milestone when it was awarded the opportunity to
present the National In-Service Chef Apprenticeship
Programme that had formerly been facilitated by
HITB (Hospitality Industry Training Board).
51
Through hard work, focus and personal
sacrifice, owner Stephen Billingham
has made HTA the training company
it is today. Spread across 2000m² of
facilities in the heart of Johannesburg’s
Randburg, HTA has steadily evolved and
is equipped with five training kitchens,
seven classrooms, three boardrooms, a
library and entertainment venues for its
students, and currently has a full time
staff compliment of thirty-two dedicated
educators, administrators and support
staff.
Other than his role at the Randburg
Campus, Stephen spends a fair amount
of time committed to his position as a
Director of HTA’s sister school, The Capital
Hotel School and Training Academy
situated in Hatfield, Pretoria. This campus,
which also includes a 2 year chef training
programme, focuses on providing
quality training in the field of Hospitality
Management. Stephen’s involvement in
other organisations certainly gives HTA
an edge; if there is any secret to the
establishment’s success other than that of
hard work, it is a keen knowledge of the
industry and HTA’s ability to adapt to the
industry’s evolving training needs. “The
majority of chef training schools in South
Africa focus on school-leaver market,
and there’s been a tremendous growth in
that sector but not all are producing well-
educated, work-ready graduates – some
schools are good and some very good,
but some schools are also very poor,”
says Stephen. “Even though there has
been a massive increase on the number
of training schools and colleges that focus
on training new talent, we are still not
producing enough qualified chefs.”
As such, HTA as a company is divided into
4 different divisions. The HTA School of
Culinary Art which offers a 2 year Chef
Training Programme is aimed matriculants.
As part of its social commitment and
upliftment, HTA also offers an affordable
52
quality chef programme to people with
educationally or financially difficult
backgrounds. The course was originally
conceptualised by Di Beadle, a former
senior lecturer at the Hotel School,
Braamfontein. The programme runs on
a non-profit basis and is supported by
industry giants such as Ecolab and Nestlé
Professional.
The third component of HTA’s offerings
is the In-Service Chef Apprenticeship
Programme, one of the few such
programmes in the country. Trainees
currently based in industry have
the opportunity to join a three-year
Apprenticeship Programme in Professional
Cookery, or alternatively a one-year Day
Release Programme.
The final component that HTA offers is
Consultancy to the industry, mostly in
the form of on-site training and coaching
in which HTA is an established market-
centre of learning
The graduating class of 2013 and below the winner of the
HTA In-service Apprenticeship competition, Kirsten Howell.
HTA School of Culinary Art
Tel: (011) 285 0937
www.htachefschool.co.za
leader. By bringing the classroom to the
kitchen, employers have the benefit
of offering skills-training, assessments
and certification to their staff, which
will hopefully lead to growth and career
advancement, without transporting them
en masse to the school.
HTA doesn’t work specifically in the
hospitality industry and has a large variety
of clients that work in non-traditional
hospitality areas such as mining, banking
and healthcare understanding that where
there are people, there’s food and where
there’s food there are chefs, cooks and
caterers. The Consultancy component
also covers newly launched Enterprise
Development Programmes where owners
of small to medium township catering
companies are trained, developed and
mentored in the field of professional
cookery, menu planning, food costing and
catering management.
The on-site training that HTA offers to its
clientele has added benefits for all of those
studying at the HTA School of Culinary
Art. By working in industry, trainers and
lecturers are kept up to date with industry
trends and bring this information back to
HTA. This allows the school to adapt its
training where necessary, ensuring that its
graduates are not only qualified but are
ready for a challenging, yet exciting career
in professional cookery.
As culinary education evolves, HTA has
partnered with a major hotel group to pilot
throughout Africa and the Middle East, the
concept of E-Learning for Chefs. Students
have access to online theoretical study and
assignments, practical demonstrations and
assessments via the E-Learning website.
53
All of the students will be supported and
facilitated by chosen and trained on-
site moderators. HTA’s main focus is to
professionally train, assess, and certify
cooks, chefs and caterers whether they
are currently employed or have just left
school. Whether chefs-in-training thrive
as full-time students, or would prefer to
learn on the job, HTA has created curricula
and structures that allow students to enter
the industry no matter their learning style.
54
Sommelier of Distinction
The Bollinger Exceptional Wine Service competition took
place regionally and then nationally, and sommeliers
from top establishments around the country were put
through their paces in a number of challenges before the
victorious advanced to the next round. On the trickiness
of the competition, Kayetan said, “It’s nerve wrecking
when you have a room full of judges sitting behind a
table and you do not know what curveballs they may
throw at you while you perform, particularly on the
service side of the competition. Blind tasting in the final
round is also a challenge; the wines that are presented
blind have characteristics that are usually not cultivar
specific, so they are not obvious examples of what you
expect from that grape. In the end you just have to keep
your nerves together and strive to complete all tasks
undertaken in a confident manner.”
When asked why Kayetan believes that sommeliers are
an integral part of the hospitality industry, he replied
“When you have a hotel, restaurant or any business
that has a food offering and wants to couple that
food experience with fine wine, then a Sommelier is
instrumental. When it comes to developing a beverage/
wine program for one hotel or restaurant or a group
of hotels or restaurants, then a sommelier is the key to
this concept. We know the floor, we know our guests
tastes and preferences, we are very studious with our
wine and food couplings, we have relationships with
the supply side of the market and we know how to
pass our passion on to others so that they too can
learn about wine and serve it confidently to guests.”
The Award’s prize is an all-expenses-paid trip to visit
the House of Bollinger in Champagne, France. “Visiting
the House of Bollinger will be very special to me,” says
Kayetan. “I may even feel like James Bond for a moment!
It’s the chance of a lifetime to visit a legendary area,
not just for the wines and the fabled storied houses,
Kayetan MeissnerWinner of the 2013 Bollinger Exceptional Wine Service Award, Kayetan Meissner from
Grande Roche spoke to Culinary Artist about the importance of wine service as well as what
he’s most looking forward to about his prize-trip to The House of Bollinger.
Sommelier Kayetan with the Bollinger Exceptional Service Award
but the history and the opportunity to see how the ordinary growers
of Champagne live. The historic Cathedral at Reims will also surely be
fantastic, this is where Charlemagne was crowned King whilst sipping still
Champagne wine and where the Germans nearly destroyed it in World
War One – hard to believe it will be 100 years later!”
Beyers chocolates
For more than 25 years, Beyers Chocolates have been creating
chocolate confectionery in all shapes and sizes.
confectionery corner
Photographs by Nick Voutsas
56
The company was started by Belgian-born Kees Beyers in 1987
when he saw a gap in the market for high quality chocolates.
The factory itself is a wonderland for those with a sweet tooth
– bubbling vats of caramel and fudge, melted chocolate being
poured into moulds, and chocolate being decorated. While most
European chocolate factories are mechanised, Beyers Chocolates
are created by hand, which allows a certain amount of flexibility
in the production. And that flexibility is entirely necessary, as the
factory creates private label chocolate ranges for clients such as
Woolworths, and many of these ranges change from season to
season.
Kees first came to South Africa in 1985 to visit his sister who
was living in the country. He’d already completed his studies
at a confectionery school as well as his national service, and
when he arrived in South Africa he was offered a job with the
Marriott Chain, now AirChefs, and decided to stay. He worked
as a pastry chef for two and a half years before opening his
factory in Kempton Park. While the bulk of the confectionery
they produce are for private label ranges, in the last three years
a number of different creations have been released and retailed
as Beyers Chocolates.
Kees believes that the Belgians have a real ethos when it comes
to making quality chocolate, and he has brought this attitude
to the factory. Real butter and cream are used, and chocolate
is imported from Belgium. Where possible, local ingredients are
used, but only if the quality is not compromised, and most of
the chocolate’s fillings are created on site. Though some of the
ingredients are imported, Beyers Chocolates is still a proudly
South African product – the factory employs 300 staff out of
season and 450 in season, many of whom are rotated between
the different factory sections so that they have a working
knowledge of each confectionery area.
As the factory creates a number of different ranges, Kees and his
team need to be up to date with the confectionery trends that
customers want to see. Salted caramel and caramel in general
has been massively popular recently, and natural fruit flavours
such as berries and citrus are also on trend. A combination of
fillings, as well as savoury touches such as salt and chilli, are
also trendy, and in Europe Kees has noticed that confectionery
is being styled elaborately, much like pastry.
Plans are in place to build a new factory that will ease the process
of creating the 35 tonnes of chocolate that are produced a week.
Currently, the processing and packaging are done in separate
facilities, but within the next couple of years all of the chocolate
production from start to finish, will be done in the same facility.
Using his creativity and skill, Kees has created an empire of
confectionery where the focus falls squarely on quality. His
passion for chocolate is evident and has been instilled in all
the people who work in the factory, lovingly creating delicious
confectionery for South Africa’s chocolate lovers.
57
58
ingredients of note
Bring back the beans
Article reprinted with the kind permission of Cuisine&Wine Asia
Bean soups, both green and red, are common
desserts sold at hawker centres in Singapore. It is
such a common ingredient in Singapore, but hard
to imagine either bean being used in Western
desserts. However, this misconception was turned
around through the confident and surprising
ways of making desserts using this unremarkable
ingredient. Chefs Terence Pang and Ben Goh showed
us how this humble bean can be transformed into
something extraordinary yet remain the same. Red
beans are typically made into dessert soups for its
nutritional value; fibre and protein. It is commonly
used in East Asia for soup and pastry desserts and
it is often boiled with sugar. Hum chee peng is a
popular deep fried savoury snack commonly found
in hawker centres. The unremarkable red bean is
probably the last thing on a pastry chef’s mind
when it comes to creating an exquisite pastry. In
Asian cultures, red beans are enjoyed either as a
soup dessert or sweet dessert by making it into
red bean paste for toppings, fillings in pastry or
biscuits.
Adzuki red bean mousse, passion fruit
and avocado curd
58
Green beans are a powerhouse of
nutrition. It contains potassium, calcium,
magnesium from a single cup serving.
With a slightly dark and dull green
skin, green beans are slightly smaller in
size as compared to jelly beans. Green
beans are also one of the ingredient for
ice kachang, a local frozen dessert. It is
also used as filings for mooncakes and
dumplings in Chinese culture. Green
beans are usually cooked until soft with
liquid to be eaten as a cooling beverage.
Green bean itself is quite bland so Chef
Ben Goh used coconut and gula Melaka
to bring out the flavour.
Green bean soup, lemongrass jelly and sesame tulip
Green bean mousseline,
pineapple and pandan sponge
cake
59
Women in WacS
ludmila Slokoski
Photographers of the World
Ludmila Slokoski is this issue’s featured food photographer and she lives in Sofia,
Bulgaria with her husband, daughter and “charming golden retriever”.
Pink prawns al fresco
6060
“I graduated with a masters degree in
Economics, but six years ago I left my full-
time job and went to pursue my dream
– photography,” says Ludmila.
It was while she was experimenting
with different photography genres that
she discovered that her interests in
food were adding a new perspective to
her photography skills. She decided to
combine these interests and leapt into
the world of food photography and food
styling. The author of one of Bulgaria’s
most popular food blogs – Salted Lemons
– Ludmila enjoys working with different
kinds of food: “Sweet, savoury, fish and
meat, and I am always open to new
culinary adventures.”
Over the last two years, Ludmila has
been working as the editor-in-chief
and photographer of BBC Good Food
Bulgaria magazine, and counts EVA
magazine, Bella Bulgaria and Nestle
Bulgaria amongst her clients.
Chocolate and strawberry gateaux
61
6262
63
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As well as distributing his own range of spice mixes in a wide
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Chef MLK School of Cooking in Kempton Park, Johannesburg.
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For more information, visit www.chefmlk.com,
phone (011) 391 6168 or email [email protected]
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65
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