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Cruise News March 2013

Next Club eVeNt :- Friday 12th April. - barrycourt Parnell

KeeP CuRReNt WItH uPCOMING eVeNtS IN CRuISe NeWS

Rally Info & Entry Forms onlineCrewseeker Registrations now online

Update, What Works, pg 3 - 6We need YOU.... see pg 5

Magic Cruising Spots South Eastern

Tasmania

Next Club EventFriday 12th April

At the Barrycourt Ctr.Parnell Auckland

Doyle SailsWestern Pacific RallyWrap up Presentation15 boats, 5 Countries, 8k miles, what a trip.

Seminar Series round up. Plus what's next ?

All will be revealed Friday 12th AprilSee you there.

See where Windflower is now, click the link

belowhttp://www.islandcruising.co.nz/?page_id5

www.islandcruising.co.nz

Cygnet Yacht Clubs starters box.

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Island Cruising Regattas ltd. trading as the Island Cruising Association or ICA - Directors;- John & lyn Martinemail: john@islandcruising.co.nz Snail mail: P.O. Box 534, Paihia Bay of Islands, 0290, New Zealandvoice mail: mobile 027-242-1088 & 021-242-1088 Office:- The good ship "WINDFLOWER", South PacificVoice Mail:- New Zealand 09 8898 444 Australia - 073 0403072

uPFRONt

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FRONt COVeR

CONtACt uS....

INSIDe....

One of the prettiest spots we came across while we were cruising this year would undoubtedly have to be Cygnet on the Huon River in Tas-mania. Not only for it's sheer beauty and lovely vistas but for it's friendly locals too. While we were there we got "adopted" by the Cygnet Yacht Club and treated to some great southern hospitality. This is their starters box.

3.. What's up next?4/5/6/7..Updates, News and Safety Tips12/13. Doyle Sails WPR - Reflections14/15... Magic Cruising Spots - D'Entrecatseaux 16/17/19.. Shamal - pt 19 -Heading South..20... Trans Pacific March specials21/22.. Brokerage23... Ponder this - Classified's24... Recipes, Shamal, Classified's

Where in the world is this shot?Tell us where this shot was taken and what we're looking at to have a chance to win a club Burgee.

It was a busy month, February saw two Cruising Prep Seminars, linked by a 1200 mile ocean passage. Scarcely a drop of water on the foredeck for 8 days then a blast into Nelson for the last 12 hours.We're now looking forward to this years rallies in May plus some exciting initiatives that we'd like your help with. If you've got a gift with Social Networking, comput-ers or websites take a look at what's planned on page 5 and if you can help, let us know.Many thanks to Debra and Grant Blake on Spontaneous for organising and running last months club get together to the bottom end of Waiheke, Rotoroa and Man O War, for a wrap up see pg 6We're back in home waters and making our way north. To see where Windflower is today, click the link below.

http://www.islandcruising.co.nz/?page_id5

EDITOR'S NOTES

John & Lyn Martin

We Make Cruising More Fun

Next ICA Get tOGetHeRFriday 12th April 2013 - At the Barrycourt Ctr. Parnell Auckland.We're back and looking forward to seeing you all for the Doyle SailsWestern Pacific Rally Wrap up Presentation. 15 boats, 5 Countries, 8k miles, what a trip and we've got the pics to prove it.Plus a a quick look at the 2012/13 Cruising Prep Seminar Series and the plans for next year's series.Plus what's next ? There are some big plans for 2014/15/16 you'll be the first to hear all about it.

All will be revealed Friday 12th April - See you There.

2012/13 CRuISING PReP SeMINARSThis series of Cruising Preparation Seminars finished with the Nelson Seminar in Feb. In total 72 couples and many singles attended, our thanks to all of you for making this a truly outstanding series.Feedback has been so positive we're doing it all again, both New Zealand and Australia in early 2014. If you'd like us to hold a seminar in your town, let us know, we're in the process of putting together the itinerary.

Next uP.

A little South Island scenery Gypsea Rover on the Q

dock at Nelson

2013 PACIFIC CIRCuIt RAllyInformation and rally entry forms are now online for the 2013 Pacific Circuit Rally. There is a possible change in the route for this event, see updates for further details.

2013 RAlly eNtRy FORMSRally info and registration forms for the 2013 Tonga, Fiji and

Vanuatu Rallies are now live online at the ICA website. The first info pack is also available for each rally

ICA bOAt NAMe ReGISteRIf you would like to register your boat name on the new, boat reg-ister page, in the members only area of the ICA web site please send us an email and we will add your details to the growing list. We've still some work to do to automate this page but it should

be up and loaded before May.

For further details and to register, go towww.islandcruising.co.nz

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Updates...

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Where in the world is this Pic?

Too easy yet again, congratulations Lester & Helen Gabriel of Brisbane. The shot is of the Port Arthur Penetentiary on the southern end of the Tasman Pen-insula in Tasmania. Port Arthur was a great stop off with lots of history and great tours. Lester and Helen, you're club burgee is on it's way to you.

Safety at SeaSafety at Sea remind all cruisers heading to the islands this year it's time to check your safety gear. For a helpful list see pages 6 & 7.

2013 Rally Registrations.Rally information and registration is now online www.islandcruising.co.nz 2013 sees a total of 5 separate rallies. The Doyle Sails Pacific Circuit RallyThe Tonga RallyThe Savusavu Fiji RallyThe Yachting World Vanuatu RallyThe 2013 All Points Rallyand the Opua Cruisers Festival in April for the lead up to the Rallies in May.For full details see the fliers on pages 8 to 9 or visit the website.

Cruising Prep Schools.We are currently compiling a list of places in New Zealand and Australia to hold seminars in next years Cruising Prep series. If you think there would be enough interest around your neck of the woods, let us know and we'll start talking.So far on the list isNew Zealand - Nelson and AucklandAustralia - Freemantle/ Perth, Melbourne, Sydney, Newcastle, Gold Coast, Brisbane, Airlie Beach, Townsville and Cairns.Timing is early 2014, a full schedule will be posted shortly.

Crew Seeker Registration.If you're looking to crew to the islands this year get busy now. We have skippers looking for crew now. Register on the ICA website under Crew Seeker on the RH menu bar, you'll need to login first!!

MeDICAl KItS

Available from

tRAINING YAcht LiFeLine

We Make Cruising More Fun Pg 5Pg5Rotoroa Island at Sunset.

The wind was not kind to us on Saturday - blowing straight into Home Bay on Rotoroa - but over the hill at Lady's and Men's Bays, it was calm and picturesque.ICA was well represented at Islington Bay on Friday night but some of the boats already had other plans for the weekend. Those that came to Rotoroa for a BBQ dinner though had a great look around the facilities and enjoyed the walk over the island.Rotoroa is becoming a popular destination for Auckland boaties and non boaties - the ferry came both daysand the accommodation on the Island was full for the week-end.Saturday night BBQ was well attended by the hardy - or maybe fool hardy. The tide and the wind were against us.Some boats stayed at Chamberlain Bay on Ponui and others anchored in Man o War - where Sunday lunch at the winery was well attended. Only negative was NO COFFEE.There were new cruisers along to the gatherings - and old lags to regale them with tales . Debra Blake...Below is a list of those that braved the elements.

MellifluousConquistidorMission ControlHobnobSans SerifOhanaDolittleTouchePericonMaeve Double ShotSilver FoxTwilight ZoneSpontaneous

Many thanks to Debra and Grant for running this event.

ICA Chart and Cruising Guide Library Here's another great idea but we'll need a little help to get it off the ground.ICA already has a Facebook page but it's totally under uti-lised and needs someone to help out. If you have those skills and are willing to help please get in touch.One of the ideas, again curtesy of DB, is to use the site as a register/ forum for old charts and cruising guides. Allowing those that have and those that want to get together.Good thought now lets make it work!!! All help gladly received.

Club outing...Club Weekend: - Feb 15th 16th & 17th

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Safety Check List...

Pg 6FSC-Cruising-Safety-Recs-checklist-OCEAN-v3.03.doc Created on 18 January 2011

Refer to “Green book” before using this list. See http://www.fsc.com.au/3/417/1/useful_information.pm

Clause Item – below decks Owner check

Clause Item – on deck Owner check

3.1 Heavy items - secure 3.3 Watertight – lockers, centreboard, windows 3.6 Escape Exits - 2 3.7 Cockpit - drains (2+), openings 3.6 Hatches, washboards 3.11 Pulpits, stanchions, lifelines continuous 3.8 Seacocks - shutoffs 3.12 Toe rail, non-skid 3.9 Plugs - valves, seacocks, lanyard 3.13 Handholds - above deck 3.10 Mast - keel stepped heel secure 3.18, A3 2 Bilge pumps, 2 buckets 3.13 Handholds - below deck 3.19 Compass - magnetic, steering 3.16 Stove, secure gas cert sign 3.20 Nav. Lights – IRPCAS spares 3.17, A2 Drinking water – 2 tanks +10l

emergency 3.25 Hull identification

3.21, A4 Engine - fuel tank(s), shutoffs 4.3, A6, A17

Anchor - 2, chain and line, ready . Drogue

3.22, A5 VHF HF or satphone emergency antennae

4.7 Depth sounder - fitted, visible from helm

3.22 Mobile phone & charger 4.8 Emergency steering - other methods 3.23 Batteries - dedicated start 4.9 Knife – cuts rope, in each cockpit 3.24 Barometer 4.10 Boat's name on moveable items 4.2 Fire ext - 2x10BE, fire blanket 4.13, A13 Liferaft or tender + grab bag A7, A8 Flashlights - 2, floating, spares. foghorn 4.14, A14 2 Lifebuoy/slings - drogue, light, colour A8, A9 Radar reflector, log 4.16 Heaving line – ready in cockpit 4.5 Charts , nav books - Colregs 4.17, A16 Storm jib mainsail 40% reef trysail 4.6, A10 GPS - permanent installation + spare 4.18 Sail numbers 4.9 Tools - rigging, routine, emerg. 4.19 Boom height 1.9m 4.9 Spares - filters, belts, oil, seals, impeller 5.4 Jackstays 4.9 Bosun's chair – last used? 5.5 Tether clipping points 4.12, A12

EPIRB 406, registered MMSI no:

A1.1, A1.2 SSSC course – who?

4.15, A15

Flares - 6P, 4R, 2W, 4O, w/proof 2.1, A1.3 First aid training – who? when ?

4.20 Portable sail number + v-sheet 2.2 MOB - explain method. Last practiced? 4.21 Stowage chart for emergency items 2.3 Emergency steering. Last tried? 5.2, A19 PFD1 - all crew + 1 (not Mae West

type), retro tape, crotch strap, whistle A1.4 Radio operator licence - who?

5.3, A20 Harness+ tether (<2m) - all crew 2.5, 4.21, A18

Safety checklists

A21 Personal location beacons A1.5 Experience: sufficient? How many of you? A22 Medical kit - in date, container, book,

steristrips, solugel etc.

Refer to YNZ Safety Manual for further directions.

Tick the boxes before EVERY passage

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What works...

Pg7Learn how it all works Essential Safety Gear

Grab bag and medical kit, always ready to go.

TIPS FOR A SAFE PASSAGE, COASTAL AND OFFSHORE -Take the time to prepare your boat well. Work with your safety inspector on this. -Plan your passage in advance, don’t try and do it on the fly. Have a back up route and destination in case of emergency. -Make regular radio skeds and advise someone of your plans, destination and ETA. -Prepare your crew. Practice sail work, explain the boat’s systems and talk about safety procedures and where to find everything. -Check if your crew is on any medication, if they get seasick they won’t be able to hold down their medication. -If any of your crew are the least susceptible to sea sickness, have them start taking something for it, BEFORE you set sail. -Have a grab bag handy at the foot of the companionway in case of emergency. -Set up a watch system. Whether it’s two, three or more crew, set up a watch system so everyone knows what they are expected to do. Always keep a good lookout. -Set up a schedule for chores and make sure everyone has their fair share. Leaving all the cooking and cleaning up to the misses is one sure way to have a grumpy partner. -Pre-cook some passage meals BEFORE you leave, one pot meals are best and where possible have them pre-frozen ashore. -Make a box full of sandwiches to have available for the crew whenever they are hungry. -Have lots of high energy snacks on hand. -A well fed and rested crew is a happy crew. -Reef down early, it’s easier and safer. It’s a good idea to reef down before dusk if the forecast is even a bit uncertain. -Have a daily check around the boat for chafe and things that can come undone, like shackles etc. -Most important of all, keep the skipper happy. Remember he or she takes ALL the Responsibility and a tired skipper is more likely to make mistakes. -To the skipper, remember you are the boss but also remember what happened to Captain Bligh.

WHAT’S IN A GRAB BAG.A grab bag is just that, you grab it as you go past when everything around you has turned to the proverbial. You haven’t got time to pack one in a hurry and in an emergency your mind has a tendency to be spinning in circles. Not the time to be fum-bling around, probably in the dark, trying to think what to take.Grab Bag Contacts.Semi waterproof bag, preferably with floatation.Water proof bag with :- Passports, Money, Credit Cards, Boat papers, Clearance Papers, cash.Cell phone. Hand held GPS + spare batteries. Ocean Chart. 2x Travelers towels. Passports and other papers should be double protected by putting them in a Ziplock bag as well.Satellite Phone (if you have one) The new Iridium 9575 is rugedised, water proof and has emergency DSM.Sea sick pills, Any crew medication.Flares:- Hand held Orange 4x, Red Parachute 4x, dye marker 1xHand held VHF waterproof, Spare Batteries. Torch, Spare batteries, spare bulb.406 EpirbBasic first aid kitWater, usually the packet type (keep a ¾ filled 20lt container on deck with a length of line attached with a clip on the end)Basic food, lunch bars, barley sugars, be aware some foods will make you thirsty.Packet electrolytesSurvival blanket.Strobe lightAnything else you feel you may need, for example reading glasses.If you do work from the boat or don’t want to lose you’re favorite pics, do a backup to a flash drive or other devise and put it in a zip lock bag then into the dry bag.

Safety equipment

Huge Range

Great Showroom

buy Direct Prices

With icA VIP CardContact

Jonathan or BrianShowroom 79 Gaunt St Westhaven Auckland

Ph 09 3099 111

sales@safetyatsea.co.nz

Clothing

Wet Weather Gear

Tick the boxes before EVERY passage

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We Make Cruising More Fun Pg 9

We Make Cruising More Fun Pg 10

Essential Satellite Communications

Iridium 9575 Bundle.For all your communication needs while on passage.

The Iridium 9575 is rugged, waterproof, has an integrated GPS and smart fleet reporting capability.

The bundle $3,464.00 includes:-q Iridium 9575 NZ$2245.00 Including GSTq External Antenna NZ$405.00 Including GSTq Beam docking station Lite $675.00 Including GSTq 9 Meter LMR240 cable + 2 X TNC connectors either end made up $139.00 including GST

To Order - email john@islandcruising.co.nzphone - Auckland 09 889 8444Brisbane 07 30403072Or click the link below

Iridium Bundle Order Form

Essential gear to have aboard

Click HERE to order

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In Stock now at Safety at SeaRRP &699.00 ICA price$649.00

More essential gear to have aboard

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Stone Church

Day 4, not a breth!!!

Doyle Sails2012/13 Western Pacific Rally...

Pg 12

Join us for a full show and tell on the Doyle Sails Western Pacific Rally at next months club night in Auckland.

Well, we are back in NZ after a mammoth ten months of cruising and 7000 sea miles and that's just the passages.

Our longest passage in this rally was the 1200 mile Tasmania to Nelson leg. Scary stuff!! This was to be our first crossing of the "Ditch" and effectively southern ocean sailing, starting south of the fortieth parallel. We had even marked this leg down as requiring additional crew for all participating yachts, just in case.

To say the passage was calm would be an understatement. Apart from 6 hours of great sailing out of Hobart and around Tasman Island and a brisk sea breeze approaching New Zealand we spent the other 8 days reading books, doing cross word puzzles, listening to the constant hum of our trusty Yanmar and at times watching our refletion in the glassy smooth waters of the Tasman Sea.

I kid you not we took no water over the foredeck the entire trip but thanks to a light breeze on the beam for much of the time we were able to get some sail assist and therefore keep the fuel usage down. For those with a technical bent we used just under 600 litres of fuel in 185 hours of motoring, averaged 6 knots for the passage and for 8 days of the passage saw no more than 8 knots apparent on the

Day 3 getting calmer...

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Doyle Sails2012/13 Western Pacific Rally...

Land Ho... NZDay 8 and finally we're sailing.

Just like the tropicsExcept the water temp!!

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wind gear, not quite enough to keep the old girl going. We did try though, on several occasions we turned the motor off only to watch the speed gradually bleed off, the apparent wind move aft and of course drop back down to unusable numbers.

Still in the words of a very good friend and long time sailor "I'd rather pay the Arab's for a few drops than spend a week standing on my ear" so all in all we'll call it a good passage.

We had two Australian boats join us for the last leg of the WPR, Caravanseri who left a touch earlier than us from Eden on the NSW coast and Gypsea Rover a Melbourne Based boat (see back drop photo). Both are joining us for this years Pacific Circuit Rally and seeing a bit of New Zealand cruising in the mean time. The picture behind is of Gypsea Rover in the Marl-borough Sounds on a picture perfect day.

Next stop is Opua to complete the circuit then off again with what promises to be a great group of cruisers for this years Doyle Sails Pacific Circuit Rally in May. Don't forget to put Friday 12th April in your diary's for club night at the Barrycourt in Auckland. We'll have a full run down of the Rally and some exciting news for 2014/15 and 16.

Doyle Sails WPR RouteAs shown on Skipr.net

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Kermandee

Bruny Island

Perfect day's

The starters box for the Cygnet Yacht Club

THE D’ENTRECASTEAUX CHANNELThis stretch of protected water in the Southeast of Tasmania is a yachtsman delight. There are a myriad of anchorages to explore, in approximately 22 miles between Bruny Island and the Tasmanian coast. Charted by French explorers Bruni d’Entrecasteaux, whom the channel is named, and Nicolas Baudin, a decade before the English staked their claim. Salmon Farming is big business here with netted fish pens a common sight in most bays along the cost as well as up the rivers, as well as fruit crops. There is something for everyone from trekking through national parks, indulging in a love of food and wine to just chilling out in a quiet anchorage.Kettering, the home of Oyster Cove Marina, is a great place to start the exploration of the D’Entrecasteaux, a friendly place only 45 minutes from Hobart. It is not uncommon for some of the cruisers that have sailed in here, to buy property and stay. Fuel and casual berths are available along with washing facilities and showers. A short walk takes you to a lovely Turkish restaurant, the information centre and cafe(which does a nice breakfast) or the Oyster Cove Inn where you can relax over a drink and a meal. The Bruny Island Ferry leaves from here as well as many sea kayaking trips.Bruny Island across the channel is renowned for its wildlife, numerous swimming and surf beaches, and fishing. A popular

Pg 14

tourist spot as well as a camping destination. North and South Bruny are connected by 5 kms of sandy isthmus known as the neck. North Bruny is mainly farmland while South Bruny is the home of to National Park with walking tracks for the adventurous and the casual stroller. On North Bruny, one of the most popular areas is Barnes Bay. Several safe anchorages can be had no matter what the weather with the Duck Pond being the most popular on weekends with good holding throughout. Tucking the boat in behind the fish farm in Sykes Cove, it’s a short walk from the shore up to the Bruny island Smokehouse where you can taste smoked salmon, trout, eel and wallaby as well as locally made wines, oils, relishes, jams and olives. A great view as well. Great Bay puts you in walking distance of Bruny Island Cheese Company or for oyster lovers Get Shucked Oyster Farm. Sandstone was mined at The Quarries at Swifts Point. Evidence of this venture is still clear with the site showing caves created where the blocks were chiselled out of the cliffs. Ships were docked at stone wharves that jutted out from the site, and the stone used in public buildings in Hobart and Melbourne.

Sandstone Quarry, Bruny Island...

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Cygnet - Huon River

Across the bay at Daniels Bay it’s an easy 15 minute walk up the main road to sample the offerings at Bruny Premium Wines, Australia’s Southern most vineyard. A great place for a bite, a glass of Pinot Noir and enjoy the peace surrounded by vines and trees.Across the channel from South Bruny is the start of the Huon River. This was the lifeblood for apple grow-ing area, and is still primarily orchard dominated, with crops including apricots, cherries, apples, peaches, pears and plums as well as berries of all types. Huonville is at the navigatible head of the river but the area though well marked is not well charted, and for the more adventurous as there is no obvious moor-ing space. 10 miles up the Huon, is the Kermandie River, which branches off at Port Huon in Hospital Bay, home to the Kermandie Marina. Across the road is the Kermandie Hotel which is a very welcoming place for a meal or a drink. Transport can be arranged for visit to the Wooden Boat Centre at Franklin. Another offshoot of the Huon is Port Cygnet. Home to a wonderful assortment of well loved and cared for wooden boats. Gardners Bay near the Port Cygnet Sailing Club is a great place to hang out for a few days. It is a short walk into the town of Cygnet where you can stock up on food and alcohol or sit back and enjoy its cafes. For music lovers the Cygnet Folk Festival is the place to be and during February they were the hub for several stages of a Targa Car Rally. At the head of the bay is a bird sanctuary, a great spot to observe herons, oyster catchers, plovers and of course black swans that the town is named for.

Magic Cruising Spots...

The D'Entrecasteaux Channel - Tasmania...

We Make Cruising More Fun

Heading South for the winter.

On that grey overcast morning that we left Venice, we noticed a flock of birds also heading south for the winter, so this confirmed we should be heading towards our winter home in Sicily too, but it would be another six weeks before we arrived into Marina di Ragusa.

Once back on the Croatian coastline we sailed into Rovinj to check back into the country. No problems there and with our passports stamped and boat papers checked we headed off to pick up a mooring buoy for the night. Next day it as back into the town to check out the fuel wharf as we do need to top up the tanks, and this one can be very exposed in certain winds. Then we pick up a few supplies. Next morning it is lovely and calm so we motor around to the fuel wharf. Once we have completed that job we are on our way.

Our next stop is only 20nm down the coast to the lovely sheltered anchorage of Uvala Kanalic just south of Pula. It is a big bay with pine trees growing right to the water’s edge giving great shelter from all winds, hence a very popular anchorage. The sailing season is definitely not over as the bay is full of yachts, and people are still swimming as the water temperature is still above 25 deg. C.

This is only a night stopover for us as we need to keep moving. We have rain during the night and next morning it is overcast as we say goodbye to the Istria Peninsula – Northern Croatia – and cross the Kvarner Chan-nel, this time in slightly calmer seas, and sail between the Islands of Cres and Losinj. Here we need to pass through the Osor Canal. We need to wait for the bridge to open at 5.00pm so tie up at the old stone quay on the northern side. We still have a couple of hours to kill and decide to walk into the quaint old town. The entire town is a museum with its Roman and Venetian walls, Bronze Age remains, monuments, and, more modern sculptures of musicians on nearly every corner playing a differ-ent instrument. Also plenty of very friendly cats. One nearly adopted us here. Once through the bridge we find yet another beautiful sheltered uninhabited cove to drop anchor in for the night.

Next day is like a mill pond. Not a breath of wind about. It is still over-cast and again we had rain during the night. Heading south we motor to Muline on the NE end of the Island of Ugljan. Once anchored we go ashore for a walk and a look see. The local bar on the stone key is still open for business so a glass of wine is enjoyed as we watch the watery sun setting, again with a gorgeous little cat playing with us. There is a large tourist boat tied up to the stone quay with a group of cyclists on

Shamal; Pt.19 - Heading South

board, who in the morning are dropped off here and will now cycle down the length of Island to be picked up at the other end. Great way to see the place, only trouble is I think they will get quite wet as there are now heavy rain clouds about as we up anchor and continue on towards Zadar on the mainland.

The following morning we caught the bus back into Zadar. Today it is an important regional centre, but again with an interesting history. Originally Illyrian inhabited – 1200 BC – then the Romans used it as a port for trading wine and timber. In the Middle Ages the Byzantine fleet had it as a main base. Venice and Hungary fought over it. Hunga-ry won but later sold it to Venice, and on goes its history right through to W.W. 11 when it was repeatedly bombed, suffering much damage to some of its wonderful old buildings. Still there is plenty to see. On a modern note there is one very interesting piece of architecture to see today, and that is the Sea Organ. This is a musical instrument built into the quayside. Under the white stone steps are a set of pipes which produce musical chords naturally as waves push air up through the pipes. People were sitting on the steps in the sun listening to the music. It is really nice to listen to.

So back to SHAMAL for the night and then our electrical storm started. Lightning thunder and some very heavy rain. The lightning and thunder were around for most of the night. The next morning as we upped anchor and moved on out we still had the lightning, but also a nice breeze of around 13kts so we were able to sail. We arrived at Rogoznica just before dark having covered 50nm with Alec zigzagging around the Islands trying to find wind. The village of Rogoznica is built on an Island and connected to the main land by a causeway. It is in a natural harbour and again is beautifully sheltered. We spent a couple of nights in here as we were waiting to pick up Judith and Graham from Dubai who were flying into Trogir – just around the corner – to join us again. The trip south so far had taken us to new places, but now we wanted to show Judith and Graham some of the lovely places we had visited on our trip north.

We had dropped the anchor on the west side of Trogir in the main channel leading to the town quay. We took the tender ashore and met J&G. After dumping their bags back on the boat we went ashore again for a bit of an explore, then dinner. Alec took them on his scenic tour around the Island in the tender, taking us under the ‘lowest’ arches of the old bridges!! This meant we nearly had to lie down to get through. Never mind the old spiders which I have quite an aversion to!

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We Make Cruising More Fun

Shamal; Pt.19 - Heading SouthShamal; Pt. 19- Heading South

The following morning it was back into Trogir for a bit of a photo shoot and a few supplies, then back on board and we were heading out towards the Island of Vis, which we had not visited on the trip north. J&G had brought the sunshine with them, but no wind. With the success Graham had had earlier on in the season with his fishing, the rod came out and he took up his usual position on fish watch! But alas nothing was caught, so it looks like dinner will be ashore tonight. Vis is the largest of the most westerly Islands belonging to Croatia. It has been inhabited since stone-age times. The Island played a key role during W.W.11 - In 1944 Marshal Tito used it as a base for co-ordinating partisan military operations. Until 1989 it was used as a military base and closed to foreigners. So today it has not been totally spoilt and has a picturesque town inside the main harbour on the northern side of the Island. Alec noted that the churches always seem to occupy the best spots in town. Either on the top of a hill, or in this case right on the shore line. Prime site. Not so many tourists out and about here but we did manage to find a nice place for dinner. Judith and I did have a little trouble with the wine menu – think we got cough medicine!!

The following morning we leave Alec on-board and return to the town to buy the lovely smoked Croatian hams and fresh bread. Then off to climb another hill to find an old tower, church and graveyard. Late morn-ing we untie our mooring line and head towards the Island of Korcula. Again Graham has the fishing line out even more determined to catch dinner. As we sail down the Peljeski Channel towards Korcula we get another weather warning. Winds to increase to between 35 – 50kts by evening from the NE going around to the NW. Oh bugger that will make a difference to where we will have to anchor. It is back to the south side of Badija Island in front of the Convent again but at least it is sheltered. We will see how things are in the morning and maybe we can move closer to the old city. Well another ‘failed’ for Graham on the fishing front, the only thing he did manage to catch was our wind generator!!!!

So off our mooring buoy the following morning had us heading south again. We pass through the last of the Islands of lower Croatia and motor under the high suspension bridge which takes the Adriatic Highway north, and on up the Dubrovacka River and drop anchor outside the ACI Marina Dubrovnik. We had been looking to refuel but were to discover the fuel wharf is only open for half a day – it is the ‘off’ season so the guy feels he does not need to work full time! So it is ashore in the tender for drinks at the marina and a quick trip to the supermarket for a few supplies. Next morning we motor back up to the fuel wharf to find the guy has gone off to the doctor and won’t be back for about an hour. So we wait. Once he returns we fill the tanks and all 10 jerry cans, then anchor back in the river before setting off in a local bus for Dubrovnik. It is now 11th October but the weather is hot and sunny with clear blue skies.

Once in the old city we send J&G off to walk the city walls as it is truly the only way to see this magnificent old city. They are the ‘symbol’ of Dubrovnik. Alec and I wander again through the narrow streets then find a place to have coffee. We are surprised by the number of tourists so late in the season, but with weather like this it is no wonder. Once J&G re-join us we take the cable car for the four minute ride to the top of Mount Srd some 412 metres above the Old City. Not only does one get a bird’s eye view over Dubrovnik, but also out over the

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We Make Cruising More Fun Pg 18

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crystal clear Adriatic Sea and numerous Islands. Then to the NE you look over into the mountains of Bos-nia Herzegovina. The cable car having been complete destroyed in the 1991 war has been rebuilt. Along with Fort Imperial which also sits at the top of the Mountain, both were seriously shelled by the Serbian artillery. A group of Dubrovnik’s defenders successfully held the fort during the entire campaign. Fort Imperial was built by Napoleon’s occupying army in 1808. Historically since that time it has been a vital defence position for the Old City. Today it is a museum where one can view weaponry, images and maps of the city before, during and after the war. We enjoyed lunch at the outdoor restaurant taking in the beautiful views before vising the museum.

So next morning we are up early to meet with the bus for our trip into Bosnia Herzegovina. We cross into the country and our first stop is in the coastal town of Neum for coffee. Oh help we had forgotten just how lucky we have been traveling around without having to be one of those tourists who jump on and off buses visiting the sites and bumping into a million others as you doing the same as you!!! You still felt as if you were in Croatia. Well no wonder as most of the people in this area Bosnian Croats – Roman Catho-lic. Neum is a pretty coastal town overlooking the sea. After the 1990’s war, in the big divide up, Bosnia Herzegovina were given a 25 mile strip of Coastal land so as they could have access to the Adriatic. We then head inland crossing back into Croatia, then back into Bosnia Herzegovina. At the border the men were dressed in what looked like Salvation Army uniforms with pilot bars on their shoulder epaulettes. Plenty of gold!! Then we headed inland and the next town we passed through is Metkovic, where the local dishes include grilled eel and frog stew washed down with either red wine mixed with coke, or white wine mixed with sparkling mineral water. Yes that is correct. The drink mixers are due to the fact that there was a bit of a drinking problem in the area. So glad this was not our lunch stop! I might have man-aged the grilled eel and white wine, but not sure about the other! The one ‘normal’ thing growing there were acres and acres of tangerines.

Then it was on to Medugorje. This once sleepy little winemaking town was made famous in June 1981 when it is said the Holy Virgin spoke to six local teenagers on a hillside just outside the town. Since then it has become a pilgrim centre like Lourdes in France and Fatima in Portugal. Oh help we had only one person on our bus who really wanted to stop here. I think half of Europe were visiting that day. Standing room only. The main street shops were full of all the same stuff, and tons of it - everything one does not need to buy!! How any of them made money is a mystery, and people did not seemed to be buying.

Our last stop, and the one Alec and I really wanted to visit, was Mostar. On disembarking from the bus we are met by our guide, a young Bosnian Croat with a great sense of humour. His opening statement to us was “I have nothing nice to say about my city, but I can tell you how to wage war and make AK47’s.” He was actually sent away during the 1990’s conflict by his parents to Italy, and did not return till it was all over. He explained that during the war the Croats fought with the Muslims against the Serbs. Later they had a fall out and fought each other. Then he took us on a street tour which led us into the old town through cobbled lanes passing the trinket sellers, cafes and then out onto the famous and most celebrated site in the area, the stone arc bridge which sits between two medieval towers. It crosses the Neretva River. In 1557 Suleyman the Magnificent ordered a fine stone arch bridge to replace the wobbly suspen-sion one. The Stari Most (Old Bridge) was completed in 1566 and came to be appreciated as one of the world’s engineering marvels. It survived the Italian occupation of WW11, but after standing for 427 years the bridge was destroyed in November of 1993, by what many sources believe, the Bosnian Croat artillery. That was showed around the world on TV and reported as the most poignant, pointless and depressing moment of the whole Yugoslav civil war. By 2004 the Stari Most had been painstakingly reconstructed using 16th century style building techniques and much of the old stone, or stone from the original quarry. Today it visited by people from all over the world and is what gives Mostar its unique magic.

Our Swedish guide on the bus, who is married to a local Bosnian Croat (Catholic) was explaining to us that what your religion is here is part of your identity. The whole country is built around religion. She married in Sweden and when her husband took her home to Bosnia, her mother-in-law asked her if she was Catho-lic or Protestant. She replied “neither, I am and Agnostic.” Her mother-in-law replied, “well Dear is that Agnostic Catholic or Agnostic Protestant”?

We Make Cruising More Fun Pg 19

The country today, like the whole of the old Yugoslavia region, still has scars and unhealed wounds from past conflicts. Emotional and physical war damage is still very prevalent, but they are trying hard to bury the past and move forward. Geographi-cally the region is beautiful with such diverse landscapes. Mountains, plains, cascad-ing river canyons, forests and of course a magical coastline with so many wonderful Islands. Of course the History and all it has to offer goes without saying.

Next is Corfu. Our reason for coming into Corfu is to have some maintenance done but as it is now Friday we decide to sit outside the marina saving costs, and will check things out on Monday. As the weather is nice and sunny, and the water still warm, we use the weekend mornings to clean the hulls and in the afternoons we take the tender ashore to have a coffee or wine, or both, while checking our emails. Monday morning we are busy removing the jib sail, to be repaired, the anchor bridle, to be replaced, the port trampoline, to be strengthened, and a list with some spare parts we would like to get. By mid-week we decide it is time to check into Corfu so off we set to the Harbour Masters and Customs Offices. When trying to explain that we DO NOT want a cruising permit as we have only called in for repairs, this all gets a bit complex. We are sent back and forth between the officers until someone finally decides in their wisdom to get this sorted. We are told that theoretically if we have repairs done we will need a Lloyds certificate to say the vessel is seaworthy again. Bugger that can you imagine how much that would cost. So we are told not to leave the marina until all work is completed, and then go!!!! No checking in, so no checking out!! Well that is nice and easy. Problem “officially” solved.

It is now Tuesday 30th October and after 10 days in Corfu and all jobs complete, and most spares sourced, we are able to leave for our winter home in Sicily. We did the 168nm run to Crotone on the southern Italian coast in a mixed bag of weather. During the night passage the moon was out, then under cover of cloud. Sails up sometimes doing a nice 7kts, but then the next moment dropping to 4kts. Then a rain cloud shows up on the radar and grows and grows till it decides to drop buckets on top of us. We arrive in Crotone the next afternoon, dodging gas platforms which are just off the coast. The winds are gathering strength again and the seas building.

Crotone in past times was renowned for its art and as having wonderful architecture. Well today there is nothing to wonderful about this place apart from a bolt hole in bad weather. Alec and I even found that not to be really true. The winds were from the SW which caused a considerable surge to develop coming into the harbour. We tied to a floating pontoon in strong winds and rain with the help of a local who spoke not a word of English. Alec spent most of the night up checking that the lines and fenders were doing their job. Next morning we were woken early with a knocking on the hull. Another local, again with no English, was trying to tell us about his small fishing boat which HAD been tied up in the corner in front of us, was sunk!! He was saying that we had hit it and sunk it. Oh **** he can’t really believe that!! There was no way we would have done that and there was not a mark on SHAMAL. He stood there for about half an hour arguing. Alec gave up and came back into the boat. We

Shamal; Pt. 19- Heading South

Cont pg 23

We Make Cruising More Fun Pg 20

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We Make Cruising More Fun

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We Make Cruising More Fun

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We Make Cruising More Fun

Ponder this... A drover, who just moved to Queensland from Victoria walks into a bar and orders 3 glasses of XXXX. He sits in the back of the room, drinking a sip out of each one in turn. When he finishes them, he comes back to the bar and orders three more. The bartender approaches and tells the drover, "You know, a glass goes flat after I draw it. It would taste better if you bought one at a time." The cattleman replies, "Well, you see, I have two brothers. One's in 'Tassie' , the other one's a 'sandgroper'. (lives in West Aust) When we all left our home in Echuca', we promised that we'd drink this way To remember the days when we drank together. So I'm drinking one beer for each of my brothers and one for myself." The bartender admits that this is a nice custom and leaves it there. The drover becomes a regular in the bar and always drinks the same way. He orders three mugs and drinks them in turn. One day, he comes in and only orders two mugs. All the regulars take notice and fall silent. When he comes back to the bar for the second round, the bartender says, "I don't want to intrude on your grief, but I wanted to offer my condo-lences on your loss." The drover looks quite puzzled for a moment, then a light dawns in his eyes and he laughs. "Oh, no, everybody's just fine," he explains. "It's just that my wife and I joined the Salvation Army and I had to quit drinking." "Hasn't affected my brothers though."

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spending at $162,000 correct?Man: CorrectLady: Do you know that if you hadn't drank, that money could have been put in a step-up interest savings account and after accounting for compound interest for the past 15 years, you could have now bought a Ferrari?

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were buying none of this. Now a group of about 10-12 men had gathered on the dock. The local Mafia - Yeah right. About an hour later a diver arrives with airbags and goes down to re-float the boat. We are very relieved when the boat is re-floated as now it is quite clear there was no damage done to it but that it was just swamped by the waves coming into the harbour. He had to remove his inboard diesel engine. After all the commotion is over we go ashore and have a look around. Not too much to see, no one speaks any English and no internet con-nections anywhere in town so we are unable to contact Brigitte. Crotone is off the tourist track somewhat. All we manage to do is buy a cappuccino. Then there was the question of checking into Italy. Again that was in the too hard basket here as no-one spoke English. In the after-noon we are asked to move the boat from our pontoon to the concrete wall opposite – Oh, NO NO NO!!! – but, we have to. So with one of the locals on board and half a dozen on shore, a stiff SW wind still blowing we untie our lines motor out, and then back into the other side. We are not even tied on when Alec says Bugger this – as one of the metal rings protruding out from the wall so very nearly went through the side of the boat. Out we go again and this time back in towards the wall picking up two front mooring lines and using our lines to tie our stern to the wall, but keeping well off. Another night of surging!!! Next morning we have had more than enough of Crotone and as soon as we have paid our harbour fees we are out of there. 80 euros for two nights without power or water and a whole lot of surging. Once outside the harbour it is sails up, with a reef in, we head for Cape Colonne. Winds of 10 -14 kts from the WNW are fore-cast so we should have a good run down to Sicily. Yeah Right!! Winds from the S gusting 26kts but at the Cape with a strong current against us and very short sharp seas build, so we decide to turn back. NO not back to Crotone. We drop anchor in the lee of the Cape. Winds now gust 35-40kts over-head, but we are tucked under a cliff and SHAMAL sits on the anchor like a dream. Three hours later we have the “Carabinieri” – Italian Coast-guard – approaching us at high speed. They wanted to know who we were and what we were up to. I wanted to tell them we had just stopped for a “b” picnic, but thought it better not to as we were still to check in to the country. Before dawn the next morning we are on our way again before the winds get up. We cross the “Golfo di Squillace” – Gulf of Squalls – which was not too bad today thank goodness, cross the Straits of Messina and then pick up the coast of Sicily the following morning with Mt Etna looming in the distance. Next anchorage was Grand Harbour in Siracusa.

The following morning we go to check into Italy. Our last check-out papers are from Croatia 19 day ago. When asked how long has it taken to sail here, we decide it is best not to mention our stop-over in Corfu as that could really complicate things, so Alec reply’s “we have a very slow boat” – that would have meant we would have spent the last 19 days with a speed of 1kt!!! The official just looks at us, stamps our boat paper work and sends us off to the police station for our visas.

The following day we up anchor for what we hope will be the last time as it is only 62nm to Marina di Ragusa, but again because of the weather we are forced to drop anchor for a night, this time in the fishing harbour of Porto Palo after only 30nm. So finally on Wednesday 7th November at midday we arrive into Marina di Ragusa on the SE side of Sicily. This will be our winter home, and this year we will not be returning to New Zealand.

Another great sailing season is behind us with many wonderful memories, new friends made, fabulous places visited and a real mixed bag of weather experienced. A total of 3,000nm covered bringing our total to just on 27,000nm.

So this is the Commander and the Admiral signing out for 2012

Enjoy....

RecipesMussel Salad48 fresh mussels in the shell4 spring onions2 onions1/2cp malt vinegarPinch chilli powderSalt & pepperClean & debeard mussels. Steam mussels for about 5 minutes. Discard mussels that don’t open. Remove mussels from shell and place in a bowl. Trim spring onions and slice thinly. Peel onions and cut into rings. Mix spring onions, onion rings and mussels. Pour over vinegar. Sprinkle with chilli powder, salt and pepper. Mix well. Cover and refrigerate for several hours before serving.

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Shamal; Pt. 19- Heading South

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