crochet barbie - trishagurumi · pattern by trishagurumi crochet barbie for the doll what do you...

1 PATTERN BY TRISHAGURUMI CROCHET BARBIE

CROCHET BARBIE

The pattern includes the crochet doll and her outfit.


FOR THE DOLL

What do you need:

lace yarn (at a recommended hook size of 1.25-1.5 mm)

for the body

use a hook of size 1.00 mm for the body

a preferred yarn for the hair (I used a red lace yarn, the

same type as I used for the body)

some wadding

an up to 1.0 mm wire for the legs and arms

thin scissors that are also used to assist in stuffing the

narrow areas of the doll

Skill level: intermediate

Finished Size of the doll: appr. 14 cm

Abbreviations:

rd = round / sc = single crochet / inc = increase / dec = decrease /

st, sts = stitch, stitches / sl st = slip stitch / ch = chain

You crochet down-to-up, starting with the legs, and work in

continuous rounds of single crochets, leaving an outline for the

arms that are crocheted with a new yarn.

© 2017 Trishagurumi

All rights reserved.

You may not sell, redistribute or publish this pattern. Final products made

with this pattern can be sold if Trishagurumi is credited as the designer.

1 retrieved from http://www.amigurumipatterns.net (September 2017)

How to read the instructions:

To facilitate the reading, I abbreviate working several consecutive

stitches as the number to be crocheted:

e.g. “5 sc, inc (7)” means that you work a sc in each of the next 5

sts and 2 sc in the 6th stitch, getting a round of 7 sts.

“4 sc, dec (5)” means, likewise, working a sc in each of the next 4

sts and, then, crocheting the 5th & 6th st in a sc together, reducing

the round from 6 to 5 sts.

For the inc and dec sts, I shorten several consecutive increases/

decreases in terms of y-times (stated as x, i.e. yx inc or yx dec)

“2x inc” means that you increase the next 2 sts, thus, working 2

sc in each of the next 2 sc (4 sc in total); rd-inc by 2 sts.

“3x dec” means that you sc each of the next 3 2-sts together, thus,

sc the 1st & 2nd sc together, the 3rd & 4th, and the 5th & 6th. The

next rd is 3 sts lower.

INFO-BOX 1: How to decrease stitches invisibly

If you want to decrease sts without creating a noticeable

decrease pattern or gaps, the invisible decrease (dec) is the

perfect way to go: insert hook in each of the front loops of the

st that you want to sc together (1). You now have three loops

on your hook. YO and pull through the first two loops on your

hook (2). YO again and pull through the two loops remaining

on your hook (4). You have now invisibly decreased one st.1

2 retrieved from http://www.lookatwhatimade.net (September 2017)

INFO-BOX 2: How to make a bobble stitch2

ch 2, YO, insert hook into next st, YO and pull through the st

(you have 3 lps on the hook now), YO again and pull through

2 of your loops on the hook [you’ve got 2 loops on the hook

now; if you would pull through all 3 lps instead, you would get

a half double crochet].

Repeat the process on the same st:

YO, insert hook into same st, YO and pull through the st, YO

again and pull through 2 loops on the hook [you’ve got 3 loops

on the hook now].

Repeat the process on the same st a last time and close the

bobble at the end by pulling through all remaining lps:

YO, insert hook into same st, YO and pull through the st, YO

again and pull through 2 loops on your hook [you’ve got 4 lps

on the hook now]. At last, YO again and pull through all loops

on your hook.

Depending on how thick you want the bobble to be, you

repeat the process more often (we, in comparison, work 3-

times on the same st).

PATTERN BY TRISHAGURUMI CROCHET BARBIE 2

http://www.amigurumipatterns.net/

http://www.lookatwhatimade.net/


RIGHT LEG (from the doll’s perspective)

Chain 2

1. Rd: 6sc in 2nd st from hook

2. Rd: 5 sc, inc (7)

3. Rd: 4 sc, 3x inc (10)

4. Rd: 4 sc, 3x dec (7)

5.-7. Rd: 1 sc each st around (7)

8. Rd: 6 sc, inc (8)

9. Rd: 7 sc, inc (9)

10. Rd: 8 sc, inc (10)

11. Rd: 9 sc, inc (11)

12. Rd: 10 sc, inc (12)

13.+14. Rd: 1 sc each st around (12)

15. Rd: 9 sc, dec, 1 (11)

16. Rd: 1 sc each st around (11)

17. Rd: 4 sc, dec, 4 sc, inc (11)

18. Rd: 4 sc, dec, 4 sc, inc (11)

19. Rd: 10 sc, inc (12)

20. Rd: 10 sc, inc, 1 sc (13)

21. Rd: 11 sc, inc, 1 sc (14)

22. Rd: 10 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc (16)


27. Rd: 14 sc, dec (15)


29. Rd: 1 sc each of the next 5 sts, sl st the 5th st and stop (do

not finish the rd)

LEFT LEG

Work as above until the 29th rd. In the 29th round work 11 sc

instead of 5 sc like in the right leg, then ch 3 and sc through the

6th sc from the last round of the 1st leg (the first of the left-out sts

from the 29th rd) to connect both legs by ch sts.

Place a marker and count anew.

BUTTOCKS (continue with the round)

For orientation, I underline the area that is worked for the

buttocks.

30. Rd: 7 sc, 5x inc, 2 sc, 3sc along ch sts, 2 sc, 5x inc, 7 sc, 3 sc

along ch sts (44)

31. Rd: 10 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 1 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 1 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc,

13 sc (46)

32. Rd: 11 sc, inc, 6 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 6 sc, inc, 14 sc (46)

33. Rd: 15 sc, inc, 3 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 3 sc, inc, 16 sc (46)

34. Rd: 20 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 20 (44)

35. Rd: 18 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 18 sc (42)

36. Rd: 17 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 17 sc (40)

37. Rd: 16 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 16 sc (38)

38. Rd: 15 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 15 sc (36)

39. Rd: 9 sc, dec, 14 sc, dec, 9 sc (34)


43. Rd: 9 sc, dec, 14 sc, dec, 6 sc (32)


Insert a 1.0 mm wire and stuff the legs and hips. The wire is about

15 cm length in total that you bend to get two parts of the same

size. Insert each part into a leg so that the bended part lies in

between the legs. Stuff the legs with the help of a thin scissor as

far as you can. The feet and lower legs are considerably thin and

the 1.0 mm wire is a sufficient stuffing for those parts; thus, insert

the wadding to the upper leg only. Properly fill the butt and the

hips and bend the feet.

45. Rd: 8 sc, dec, 14 sc, dec, 6 sc (30)

46. Rd: 9 sc, inc, 6 sc, dec, 6 sc, inc, 5 sc (31)


48. Rd: 9 sc, inc, 14, 4x inc, 3 (36)

49. Rd: 5 sc, 4x inc, 19 sc, 4x inc, 1 sc, dec, 1 sc (43)

50. Rd: 5 sc, dec, 1 sc, 4x inc, 29 sc, dec (45)

51. Rd: (2, dec) x2, 24 sc, ch 5 and sc in 3rd next st, dec, 6 sc, dec

(42)

52. Rd: (2, dec) x2, 4 sc, dec, ch 5 and sc in 3rd next st, 13 sc, 5 sc

along ch sts, 4 sc, dec, 2 sc (39)

53. Rd: 9 sc, dec, 5 sc along ch sts, 18 sc, dec, 5 sc (37)

54. Rd: 2 sc, dec, 5 sc, dec, 21 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 1 sc (33)

INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE DOLL


55. Rd: 5 sc, dec, 1 sc, dec, (2, dec) x6, 1 sc (25)

56. Rd: (2, dec) x6, 3 sc (19)

Work the ARMS now before continuing with the rest of the body.

Thereby, take a new yarn, make a knot at the end of the yarn and

insert the hook in one of the left-out sts (arm-outline) of the 51st

Rd. Yarn over and directly continue sc the next sts as follows:

LEFT ARM: 1.-23. Rd: 1 sc each st around (7); include the transition

st that connects the [5] ch sts from the arm-outline with

the 54th Rd

24. Rd: 1sc, bobble st in next st (3x in same st; see

description in the introduction part), 5 sc

Fold both sides together and sc them together

(stitching 2 sc pairs together); weave in the yarn end.

RIGHT ARM: 1.-23. Rd: 1 sc each st around (7); include the

transition st that connects the [5] ch sts from the arm-

outline with the 55th Rd

24. Rd: 5 sc, BS, 1 sc

Fold both sides together and sc them together

(stitching 2 sc pairs together); weave in the yarn end.

Insert a wire that connects both arms. Stuff the upper body,

particularly the breasts. The arms are only stuffed with the wire.

57. Rd: dec every 3rd st, 1 sc rest (16)

58. Rd: dec every st (8x) (8)

59. Rd: 1 sc in each st around (8)

60. Rd: dec, 6 sc (7)

THROAT (continue with the round)

61.+62. Rd: 1 sc in each st around (7)

HEAD (continue with the round)

63. Rd: inc every st (14)

64. Rd: inc every st (28)

65. Rd: inc every 4th st (35)

From here, you can further stuff the upper body with the support

of a thin scissor through the throat to achieve a firm shape


67. -77. Rd: 1 sc each st around (40)

78. Rd: 4 sc, 2x dec, 5 sc, 2x dec, 1 sc in the remaining sts (36)


80. Rd: dec every 6th st (5x), 1 sc rest (31)

81. Rd: dec every 3rd st (7x), 3 sc rest (24)

82. Rd: dec every 2nd st (8x) (16)

Stuff the head.

83. Rd: dec every st and close the head

EARS (2x)

Take a new yarn and work 5 sc in a magic ring. Repeat for the

other ear.

Sew the ears to the face in a total length of 4 rows between the

12th+13th row from above and 9th +10th row from above,

approximately 19 sts apart; the ears are approximately in the

vertical line to the arms.


NOSE

Take a new yarn and thread it between the 10th st in the round

of the ear-ends to a round below (the nose is about 3 rows’

length)

BELLY BUTTON

With a new skin-coloured yarn work a belly button by stitching on

the 9th row from the bottom. Stitch twice firmly from between the

butt cheeks to the belly button and back to add on shape!

EYES

The eyes consist of 2 simple stitches

with a ply yarn (strong thread). Take

two strands of black yarn and,

together, thread them in the 1st row

above the nose-begin and about 1 st

aside. Work diagonally (form a right

triangle per eye), covering 2 rows.

The eyes are, at the bottom, 2 or 3 [empty] sts apart.

Alternatively, use safety eyes of about 3 mm.

MOUTH

The lips are made using two strands of pink-orange or red

coloured ply yarn similar to the eyes. The upper lip’s length is 6

sts, the lower lip lies on 3 sts, and the lips go altogether through

3 rows.

Start at the top of the head and

thread in the 1st row below nose-end

about 3 sts aside. Stitch in the 5th st

to the right and continue going from

the inside to the lower lips. Stitch

them in between 1 st and then work

the sides.

Pull the thread ends tightly in order to shape the head on the lips

and knot the ends together.

HAIR

The hair is worked in strands of lace yarn (I chose pink for the

colour). Each stitch is being filled up to the middle of the back of

the head.

For each hair strand, insert the hook through two stitches of

vertical rows, take one piece of yarn with the hook and pull it back

through the two sts. Now, you’ve got a loop on one side and two

yarn ends on the other side. With the hook or your fingers pull

both yarn ends through the loop to create a knot. Stretch the yarn

ends to close the knot firmly. Continue those steps for each hair

strand until you’ve covered the top of the head and got your

desired hair density.


FOR THE OUTFIT

What do you need:

lace yarn (at a recommended hook size of 1.25-1.5 mm)

in blue (for the shorts), light-violet (for the top), and

beige (for the shorts-details)

use a hook of size 1.00 mm

Skill level: intermediate

The outfit consists of …

jeans-shorts

a crop top

Abbreviations:

rd = round / sc = single crochet / dc = double crochet / inc =

increase / dec = decrease / st, sts = stitch, stitches / sl st = slip

stitch / ch = chain

How to read the instructions:

See description for the doll

© 2017 Trishagurumi

All rights reserved.

You may not sell, redistribute or publish this pattern. Final products

made with this pattern can be sold if Trishagurumi is credited as the

designer.

SHORTS

The shorts are worked with a blue-coloured yarn at a

recommended hook size of 1.2-1.5 mm (the same yarn size you

used for the body of the doll). At each round end, ch 1 and turn

your work, unless it states that you continue crocheting in

continuous rounds.

ch 37

1. Rd: 1 sc in each ch st around (36) [ch 1 + turn]

2. Rd: 18 sc, inc, 17 sc (37)

3. Rd: 11 sc, inc, 13 sc, inc, 11 sc (39)

4. Rd: 11 sc, inc, 15 sc, inc, 11 sc (41)

5. Rd: 12 sc, inc, 15 sc, inc, 12 sc (43)

6. Rd: 12 sc, inc, 17 sc, inc, 12 sc (45)

7. Rd: 12 sc, inc, 19 sc, inc, 12 sc (47)

8.+ 9. Rd: 1 sc in each st around (47)

Connect both sides of the last round with a sl st and continue

working in continuous rounds:


11. Rd: count 24 sc and work a sc into the 24th sc to create two

equally sized outlines for the legs.

Continue working on the left leg [from the view of the doll]


Weave in the yarn end and continue with a new yarn on the right

leg:


Weave in the yarn end, put the trousers onto the doll and use the

beginning yarn end to sew the top of the trousers on the doll

together. Thereby, the sides to be closed have to be in the front.

CROP TOP

For the top, use another colour of the same yarn type. At each

round end, ch 1 and turn your work.

ch 25

1. Rd: inc every 2nd st (36)




5. +6. Rd: 1 sc in each st around (54)

7. Rd: 7 sc, count 11 and sc in the 11th st (left arm-outline), 19 sc,

count another 11 sc and sc in the 11th st (right arm-outline)

8. -11. Rd: 1 sc in each st around (35)

INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE OUTFIT

PATTERN BY TRISHAGURUMI


Put your work on the doll so that the backside is open and sew

both sides of the work on the back together.

DETAILS ON THE SHORTS

Take a white or beige yarn of the same size like before and sew

the outlines typical for jeans on the trousers: starting from the

side-lines to double-lines on the back of the shorts, to side-

pockets and the pockets at the back.

The output can look something like this:

crochet barbie - trishagurumi · pattern by trishagurumi crochet barbie for the doll what do you...

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