Tips & Tricks for Using sTain

17 projecTs sTarring Wood

Creative DIY projects

Special Edition: Stain & Wood

TYpes of fInIsh

naTUral resin varnish resists scuffs and scratches and is available in colors, as well as clear. Spar varnish is designed for outdoor applications.

oil-based polyUreThane is mar-resistant and durable, but yellows over time. If it is used with a fairly dark stain, the yellow tinge is not apparent.

WaTer-base polyUreThane is not as durable as oil-base polyurethane. It needs regular reapplications, but it does not yellow.

shellac is available in clear or pigments, it forms a hard film but is dissolved by alcohol and easily damaged by water.

lacqUer is fast-drying, produces a smooth finish, and is used mostly for furniture.

danish or TUng oil is a finish that penetrates wood and hardens the grain. It has moderate resistance to stains, scratches and burns, and good resistance to water and alcohol.

Tips & Tricks

all aboUT StainBrush up on the basics of staining and finishing before your embark on a wood project.

GeTTinG sTarTedWhen working on a staining project, there are two major phases: staining the wood, which adds the color, and finishing, which will protect the surface. Common finish options are shellac, varnish, lacquer, or polyurethane. When you select a stain, make sure that it’s compatible with the finish you’ll apply. Lacquer and some polyurethanes react adversely to the pigments in some stains.

choosinG a sTainThere are many types of stain to choose from. Some stains are designed for ease of use, but in turn, you give up control over the result. Others stains are for the perfectionist who doesn’t mind the numerous steps required to achieve the deepest, clearest finish. Consider the result desired, then decide on the product for the job. Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions for application.

choosinG a Finish coaTThe go-to finish for many do-it-yourselfers is polyurethane. It is formulated for easy application; dries quickly; needs no polishing or rubbing; and is far more resistant to water, scratching, alcohol, grease and everyday wear. However, polyurethane often looks like exactly what it is: a plastic coating, which can detract from the beauty of wood and fine furniture. For a more antique look, consider other products. Varnish and shellac form a hard, old-world coating. Danish and tung oil finishes penetrate the wood and produce a subtle, natural looking coating. These products aren’t as durable as polyurethane, but they usually protect the wood well as long as they are occasionally reapplied.

TYpes of sTaIn

oil-base sTain is a traditional formula, but there are now concerns about the environmental effects of its petroleum vapors. It is best for touchups and restaining. Oil-base stains are permanent and don’t fade. They don’t raise the grain, and additional coats will darken the look. However, they are difficult to clean up, have an unpleasant odor, and are flammable.

WaTer-base sTain is replacing oil-base stains because it is easier to use and safer for the environment. Water-base stains are best for floors and other woodwork and children’s toys. These stains are easy and safe to use, and additional coats will darken the color. But they can raise the wood grain, don’t penetrate deeply, and require a finish coat.

peneTraTing oil sTain is also called Danish oil, or rubbing oil. The formula stains and protects the wood, and works well for high-traffic floors and woods with an attractive grain. Penetrating oil stains don't require a finish coat and wipe on with a rag and don’t hide the grain. But they are flammable and color options are limited.

gel sTain is the simplest to use for beginners. It adheres to vertical surfaces and does not run, so it works well for complicated and vertical surfaces. Additional coats will darken the color. While gel stains are easy to apply and won’t raise the grain, they are expensive, cleanup is a challenge, and color choices are narrow.

one-sTep sTain and finish is the quickest way to finish wood if you are not too critical about the exact color achieved. It works well for door and window casings, provides uniform results and is quick to use, won’t raise the grain. On the downside, this product cannot build up color and the color is not as deep and clear as other options.

2stain & Wood projects

sTaInInG TIps

applicaTorsClean cotton T-shirts work well as applicators. Dip the shirt in the stain, wipe it on the wood, then wipe away the excess.

experimenT firsTThe samples you find in stores will only give you a general idea of what the result will be. Most stains dry a shade or two darker than the color you see when it first goes on. Before you stain, you’ll want to experiment. Mix stain and thinner in ratios of 1:0, 1:1, 1:2, 1:4, and 1:8 in an old muffin tin and label each sample. Test the mixes on an inconspicuous spot or a scrap piece of wood. For an accurate idea of the final appearance, also apply the clear sealer, which can alter the final appearance of the stain.

Time iT righTThe longer the stain remains on the wood, the darker the color. (If it gets too dark, moisten a cloth with a thinner recommended by the manufacturer and wipe again to dilute and wash away some of the pigment.)

prep WorkBefore you stain, seal porous areas. End grain absorbs stain too quickly. Seal end grain with a product made for the purpose, usually called a sanding sealer. Sand the sealer lightly before staining.

proJecTs & ideas

projecTs sTarring StainDive into staining with one of these creative projects. Practice smart safety by always working in a well-ventilated area and donning a mask and protective eyewear during prolonged exposure.

proJecT 1: driFTwood-Finish TableGive a new table a driftwood finish, left. The effect is a warm gray-brown color and a lustrous surface that shimmers in a sunny room. Mix ½ cup white paint and ½ cup turpentine in a small container. That will be enough to cover a 38x38-inch tabletop. Rub into the surface of the table with a soft rag. The paint mixture soaks into the wood, leaving no wipe marks. While the paint is still wet, wipe on the wood stain. The white grain should show through. Spanish oak is a dark stain color, so you won’t need much. Wait until the stain is dry (at least six hours) to create the carved design. Use a sharp wood chisel to make

vertical strokes in the surface to carve a design. Follow the wood grain when you make your strokes. (Going against the grain splinters the veneer.) Keep the design shallow so food and debris don’t get stuck in the grooves. Carve just deep enough to reveal raw wood. Rub a small amount of the thinned paint into the grooves, wipe off excess.Tip: To get this pleasantly satin feel, oil-base paint is the better choice over quick-drying latex paint. Oil-base paint applies smoothly and pairs well with wood.

proJecT 2: sTriped cabineTsEarn your staining stripes with this cabinet project. Use painter’s tape to cover the outside border of the cabinet door so only the center panel is exposed. With a ruler and painter’s tape, mark vertical stripes in varying widths. Working with the grain, use a clean cloth to apply the first stain color. When it’s dry, repeat the process with other colors (we used three colors). Finish by taping off the panel and staining the outside border.

proJecT 3: hip-To-be-square FloorInstead of the expected planks, try squares of veneered medium-density fiberboard (MDF) stained in a variety of colors. Measure your room to determine how many and what size MDF squares you’ll need (ours are 24x24 inches). In a well-ventilated area, apply stain according to package instructions. To achieve greater color diversity, use both water-base brush-on stain and rub-on stain, and dilute several of the stains with water to get lighter hues of the same color. When all the panels are dry, lay them out and attach them to the subfloor with screws or strong wood glue. Seal the floor with two coats of clear polyurethane.

3 stain &Wood projects

proJecTs & ideas

deck The WallSTake wood to the walls with one of these fun treatments starring veneer.

Grid iT Create a gorgeous grid with veneer, above. We used MDF-backed (which provides stability) walnut veneer that boasts a gorgeous grain. Use graph paper to create a scale diagram of your wall. Use a 1 inch = 1 foot ratio. (Go to BHG.com/WallPattern to get a diagram of this layout.) Don’t skip this step; it’s much easier to make the most of your materials if you map your plan first. Varied sizes and shapes create visual interest. Draw your pattern on the wall with a ruler, level, and pencil. Follow the 1 inch = 1 foot ratio. Vary the direction of the wood grain. Carefully cut each rectangle from your veneer. If you’re using paper-backed veneer, use a light coat of wood glue to attach each veneer piece to a same-size panel of MDF. This will give the pieces more support and prevent rippling. Use power adhesive (we used the kind in a caulking tube) to affix the panels to the wall. Nail in place for added security. Place the nails near the outside edges of the panels so they’ll be concealed when you add molding. Nail inexpensive molding in the same finish over the seams between the panels to polish the look.

wood paTchworkCan’t decide on just one wood type for your walls? Go against the grain and use a variety of wood-veneered MDF with different stains to achieve a modern patchwork look, right. Experiment with small pieces of MDF before starting the project, and test-fit the pieces by laying the entire configuration on the floor before placing and nailing it to the wall. Use pin nails to minimize nail holes.

chic chevronA chevron pattern in veneered MDF makes a stunning entry wall, above. To get the look, cut a chevron shape (ours has a 38-degree pitch) from scrap wood, then measure your wall to see how many shapes you’ll need. Use the scrap wood template to trace and cut the appropriate number of shapes from veneered MDF. Find a cutting guide and instructions at BHG.com/WoodChevron. Measure and mark guidelines on the wall in pencil, then use wood glue to secure each chevron shape to the wall.Tip: This cherry veneer was coated with a water-based clear stain to boost shine, define the wood grain, and protect the wall in a high-traffic area.

4 stain & Wood projects

proJecTs & ideas

inspired by natureTurn veneer, wood scraps, branches and more into lovely accents for your home.

#1 woven headboardWeave together pieces of veneer to create a textural headboard. Use two different widths of veneer strips to create visual variety. This headboard relies on two frames: one made from budget-friendly poplar, which is what the veneer strips are glued to, and a front-facing, pretty yet pricier maple frame. Go to BHG.com/VeneerHeadboard for all the project instructions.

#2 scrap coasTersUse a 4x4-inch wood block scrap to create cool coasters. Cut the block using a chop saw or handsaw plus a miter box to make straight cuts. Sand the edges and corners and apply natural wood stain and sealer to draw out the grain. Once dry, stick cabinet bumpers on the four corners of each of the bases to keep your surfaces scratch-free.

#3 veneer vaseTurn a plain vase into a leafy showpiece with veneer. Download the free leaf templates at BHG.com/VeneerLeaves and trace the patterns onto veneer and cut out. Cut a piece of veneer to wrap around the vase. Stitch leaves onto the veneer and add in extra stitches for flourish. Wrap the embellished veneer around the vase and secure with glue.

#4 boTanical prinTs Twigs, leaves, branches, and natural elements give quite an impression in these plaster art pieces. This project uses clay to form a cast and plaster of paris to create the final pieces. Frame your masterpieces in wood frames for the ultimate au natural look. Go to BHG.com/Botanicals for the full how-to.

#5 wood plaquesTo create nature-theme wall art, use a miter saw to cut a slice of wood. Print an image of birds or other wildlife onto iron-on transfer paper, then follow the package instructions to apply the image to the wood. To protect the transfer, glaze with gloss sealer.

#6 rusTic coFFee TableBuild a birch log coffee table with a few simple supplies, tools, and birch logs. Rather than using lots of birch logs, this coffee table is a box surrounded by birch logs cut to the same height. The top of the box is covered with birch log slices to give the impression that the entire table is a bundle of logs. Go to BHG.com/BirchTable to get the full step-by-step.

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proJecTs & ideas

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#7 sTylish shadeCreate a pendant from stapled and stacked layers of veneer for less than $100. Start with a wire frame from an old drum shade. This frame fit a pendant lamp kit from a home center. Purchase cherrywood veneer on a roll from a home center. Cutting with the grain, use a crafts knife and ruler to cut strips 1–2 inches wide. (The length, height, and number of strips will depend on the size of your frame.) Each layer that wraps around the lamp consists of four strips, right sides together, stapled at the ends. The strips will naturally curl around the wire frame. Stack layers to fill the frame. For the bottom layer, cut the strips 3–4 inches wide, and paint on our stencil pattern found at BHG.com/WoodStencil. Punch holes with an awl to follow the stencil design. Wrap finishing veneer strips around the top and bottom to cover any visible frame. Glue all pieces into place using wood or all-purpose glue.

#8 loG paThwayPave a pretty path with log slices. Lightly sand log slices to remove splinters and rough patches. Stain slices on one side in various shades. Apply stain with a 2-inch brush, according to the manufacturer’s instructions. After the stain dries, apply clear varnish to both sides. After the varnish has dried, spray on clear outdoor sealer. Lay the log slices throughout your yard for a walkway you can easily move. For permanent placement, dig out a circle of sod and set the log slice inside so it’s level with the grass.

#9 bauble branchesStore jewelry on pretty branches. Cut small branches to similar heights using garden pruners or a small handsaw. Next, glue two 1x6-inch boards together at a right angle and let dry. Drill evenly spaced holes in the base. Dab the bottom inch of the branches with wood glue, then place upright in the holes. Let dry, and decorate with your favorite accessories

#10 key hookKeep your keys handy with a quick-fix hook. Cut a thick branch to the desired length, then drill a hole in the bottom. Screw a cup hook into the hole, then hang keys. Attach the branch to the wall by placing a sawtooth hanger on the back of the branch and a nail in the wall to hang the tooth hanger from. Or skip the cup hook and use the branches for hanging purses, scarves, and more.

#11 birch bark cabineTAdd pizzazz to a plain cabinet with bark. Using heavy-duty scissors or a saw (safety goggles recommended), cut sheets of birch bark into equal squares. (We purchased ours from an online retailer to ensure the material was completely dry.) Glue them to the cabinet front in random order using contact cement. Fill empty spaces with more bark cut to size. 11