5

May 2017 VOLUME NO. 25

E n g l i s h / G e r m a n

SUNCARE

INTERVIEW DR. JANE SUM COVESTRO

EPIGENETICS

COSMETIC DRONES

INTERVIEW VAIOS BARLOS CLARIANT

MARIE THADAL, CHAIR 2017, NYSCC about the new venue

THE TRUMP EFFECT

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NYSCC Supplier's Day, NY

May 2-3, 2017, Booth 777

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PAT Plant Milking®

Sourcing solution for your actives

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ALPAT All our activities holdISO 9001 certification

3 EURO COSMETICS5-2017

EURO COSMETICS · May 2017 · Volume No. 25

Contents

5 EDITORIAL

6 NAMES & NEWS

10 INTERVIEWS 10 A conversation with Dr. Jane Sum,

Head of Cosmetics, Covestro

43 Interview with Marie Thadal Chair 2017, NYSCC

20 TECHNOLOGY R&D 12 Innovative Technologies solve

Performance Challenges in Wide Range of Sun Care By Nilesh Shah and Isabelle Van Reeth

16 Epigenetics – A New Way to Rejuvenate Skin By Esther Belser

22 Formulating with Anti-Aging Solutions that Never Get Old By Amit Patel and Traci L. Cassell

26 Traditional Anti-Aging Knowledge, Applied To The Skin By Júlia Comas, Cristina Davi, Elena Cañadas, Laia González, Raquel Delgado

32 Repair and Maintenance of the Epidermal Barrier with Cosmetic Drones By Marisabel Mourelle-Mancini & Joan Gonzalez

36 REGULATION & LEGISLATION

The Trump Effect – The Current State of US Regulatory By Karen Yarussi-King

39 NEWS & TALK Vaios Barlos, Clariant

talks about the new Global Competence Center in Brazil

41 NEW INGREDIENTS

43 EVENTS

45 PACKAGING & MACHINES

47 INDEX OF ADVERTISERS/IMPRINT

48 MARKET PLACE

30 An dieser Stelle möchten wir uns insbesondere bei unseren Kunden & Partnern für das Vertrauen herzlich bedanken. Wir freuen uns auf die weitere gemeinsame Zukun� .

1987 – 2017

Focus Sun

The Jacob K. Javits Convention Center in Manhattan

PAT Plant Milking®

Sourcing solution for your actives

Plant Advanced Technologies PAT SA13 rue du Bois de la Champelle54500 Vandoeuvre-lès-NancyFRANCE

Tel. : +33(0)3 83 94 03 42contact@plantadvanced.comwww.plantadvanced.com

Alternext:FR0010785790 ALPAT

ALPAT All our activities holdISO 9001 certification

Dr. Jane Sum, Head of Cosmetics, Covestro

NAMES & NEWS

6 EURO COSMETICS5-2017

SenzaGen and AstraZeneca Initiate Technology Development Collaboration

Ashland Wins Gold Award for Best New FunctionalIngredient at in-cosmetic Global in London

Croda’s $170 Million Investment in Renewable Manufacturing to Be Completed in Q4 2017

Sisterna’s road to full sustainability

Ashland’s FiberHance™ bm solution received the Gold award for Best New Functional Ingredient today at in-cosmet-ics Global in London.

FiberHance™ bm impressed judges with its use of unique

Croda International Plc, the name behind high perfor-mance ingredients and tech-nologies, celebrates a mile-stone for its new ECO Project; a $170 million investment in renewable manufacturing that will reduce reliance on fossil fuels and the carbon footprint of its new 100% Bio-Based ECO Range of Surfactants. The next milestone in Croda’s ECO project is the final installation of the exterior infrastructure.

With environmental issues such as climate change, finding an alternative for a key petro-chemical based source will have a positive environmental impact and help impact the sustainability profile of every-day products from face creams to toothpaste to paint to laun-dry detergent. Net greenhouse gas emissions to the atmos-phere will be reduced by use of Croda’s 100% Bio-Based ECO Range of surfactants com-pared to their petrochemically derived counterparts. Croda’s versatile bio-ethylene oxide plant can accept bioethanol from different renewable sources.

These milestones are not only important to the produc-

and sustainable ingredients that work simultaneously to create and strengthen hair fibers without compromising color.

FiberHance™ bm solution is a molecule designed to pene-

tion of the new 100% Bio-based ECO Range of Sur-factants; it also demonstrates Croda’s long-standing dedica-tion to sustainability and put-ting innovation into action. With changing consumer ex-pectations for more renewable products and the drive for improved sustainability, con-sumer goods manufacturers are striving for ingredients to develop products that meet these needs. Croda Interna-tional Plc is leading the way in finding innovative solutions to meet customer expectations.

Croda’s new 100% Bio-based ECO Range of ingredients will enable its customers to meet their goals of delivering 100% renewable, high-performance products to their consumers and reduce the reliance on fos-sil fuels in the United States. This new range of 100% bio-based products will be used in many applications, including lubricants, seat foams and coatings in the automobile industry; air- and floor-care products in the cleaning indus-try; and drilling fluid in the oil industry; as well as cosmetics and hair care products in the personal care industry. n

trate the hair fiber and provide superior strengthening in shampoos and other hair care products by using cost-effec-tive technology. This functional ingredient is based on gluco-side chemistry that strengthens the hair wash after wash, pen-etrating the natural fibres allowing the hair to be more manageable and alluring. The

solution, developed by Ash-land, is compatible with color treatment systems to strength-en hair during and after color-ing, and to repair hair fibers that have been damaged by chemical treatments. It helps to strengthen all hair types, including Caucasian, Asian and African American. n

The facilities DKS Co. Ltd. in Japan, the producer of Sisterna sucrose esters of fatty acids and

Sisterna’ s mother company, are approved as RSPO Mass Balance and Segregated supply chain.

Production with certified and traceable palm oil accord-ing to the Mass Balance system of our powder grades has started in January 2017. This means that the supply of RSPO certified Sisterna sucrose esters from the warehouse in the

Netherlands has started from March 2017.

Sisterna is a small user of palm oil, but we recognize the need for sustainable palm oil sourcing. It is an essential issue for the global environment, biodiversity and the working conditions for the local planta-tion workers. We want to take our responsibility so we can offer a sustainable palm-based emulsifier.

Every step is a new step on the road to full sustainability.

n

Solvay is entering into medi-cal devices building on its world-leading portfolio of high-performance polymers with a new dental care busi-ness line. “Solvay Dental 360TM” spans from an innova-

tive material to replace metal in removable partial denture frames, to enabling a digital workflow that accelerates the work of dental laboratories and dentists.

Removable partial denture

EPC_201704_AZ_210x297_Eurocosmetics_en_RZ_ZW.indd 1 29.03.17 11:45

Alban Muller will introduce several natural innovations at NYSCC Supplier’s Day

SILAB WELLAGYL®

Aging well is the art of being in harmonywith your age

WELLAGYL® is an unprecedented cos-metic active ingredient which responds to a vision of beauty clearly expressed by women determined to enhance their well-being while staying in harmony with their age: aging well.

WELLAGYL® is a purified active ingredi-ent, rich in oligosaccharides, from the Bul-garian rose (INCI Name: Rosa damascena), obtained from a non-denaturing manufac-turing process.

As the recipient of the Most Sustainable Company Award, Alban Muller, l’Expert du Naturel, will share its Green vision at NYSCC Suppliers Day on May 2 – 3 in New York at the Javits Center.

5 New Blend of Plant Extracts:

Cosméphyta-MIX, the ultimate plant ac-tives cocktail to boost your formulas

Thanks to its exclusive extraction pro-cesses of active molecules, Alban Muller develops 100% natural, eco-designed plant extracts. The new Cosme-Phytamix range is a combination of plant extracts concentrated in actives for a powerful syn-ergistic and targeted action to meet spe-cific needs.

whitening and repairing properties. Omyacare® is pure white natural calcium carbonate with strong opacity and maste-red particle sizes that can be used in skin-care and color cosmetic formulas. A broad spectrum of specialty ingredients such as natural color pigments and sugar-based surfactants were also showcased.

Omyadent® particles have a core of calcium carbonate and a shell of hy-droxyapatite, the main constituent of hu-man tooth enamel. The large surface area of the tailor-made Omyadent® 100 – OG elements ensures high reactivity and the ability to repair microscopic defects th-rough remineralization of tooth enamel. This results in a smoother and therefore whiter tooth surface.

The Omyacare® range consists of dif-ferent natural calcium carbonate particles that provide multifunctional ingredients for innovative skincare cosmetics. These minerals are ECO-certified and can be used in a variety of applications, including emulsions (o/w and w/o) and anhydrous (non-powder) formulations, to provide body and texture. They deliver smooth-ness and a pleasant skin feel when used in body lotions, body creams and colored cream products which are intended for re-duced tackiness and faster drying times.

Omya’s showcased highlights were rounded off with high purity botanical co-lorants, pigments and natural antioxidants from its distribution portfolio. As such, the company’s new Natural Gardenia Red co-lorant was introduced at in-cosmetics as an ideal ingredient for vegan cosmetic for-mulations.

www.omya.com n

2 Innovative Cosmetic Actives, Anti-pollution:

Preparami® & Protectami®, the protec-tion against pollution

Alban Muller has created 100% Natural active ingredients to prepare and protect the skin from external aggressions such as pollution. Preparami® & Protectami® are the perfect cosmetic active solutions for city dwellers.

4 New Skincare in vogue:

Ready-to-beauty, 4 new references ob-tained from the best of our expertise

Alban Muller enriches its exclusive offer of formulated cosmetic products with 4 new references, illustrating its ability to combine Excellence and Sustainability such as:

The Vegetal Golden Mask: This innova-tive skincare is made of a high concentra-tion in 100% Natural Plant extracts: Cosme-Phytamis® – Gingko biloba, horse chestnut and red vine. This luxurious tex-ture mask provides a sensation of well-being and relaxation. It reduces the signs of tiredness and time, it moisturizes and relaxes the skin.

www.albanmuller.com n

The rose is the queen of flowers. It is the symbol of purity, love and beauty. The Bulgarian rose is one of the most famous and its benefits mostly target the body’s general well-being. In the Antiquity, this rose was used for its effects on mood and its capacities to enhance beauty.

Available in aqueous solution, WELLAGYL® is a patented active ingredi-ent, easy to formulate and compliant with global cosmetic regulations (Europe, Unit-ed States, Japan and China).

To stay beautiful and still look your age, WELLAGYL® is recommended for all ma-ture skin care products (recommended amount: (1 to 2.5%).

www.silab.com n

NEW INGREDIENTS

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GlyAcid® is the new global benchmark for high purity glycolic acid.

CrossChem’s GlyAcid® is produced using a proprietary acid saponifi cation and purifi cation process that does not use formaldehyde while delivering a high purity glycolic acid in 57% solution, 70% solution, and 99% crystalline.

Replace your current glycolic acid with an ingredient produced specifi cally for today’s personal care formulations.

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43 EURO COSMETICS5-2017

EVENTS

EURO COSMETICS: This year you start at a new venue at Javits Convention Center in New York City. What is the background to this decision for the move from New Jersey to New York?Marie Thadal: It was time. The event had humble beginnings, more than 30 years ago, when it took place in a hotel lobby with a couple of local suppliers. Year after year Suppliers’ Day has enjoyed tremen-dous growth and industry support. The 2016 numbers speak for themselves – 7,785 attendees and 415 international ex-hibitors representing 38 countries. The move to the Jacob Javits Center in New York City was necessary to best serve the global cosmetic ingredients marketplace that is represented at the show.

EURO COSMETICS: How was the response from the exhibitors on the move? Marie Thadal: The move to NY came from surveying our exhibitors and attendees and asking them in what city and venue they preferred the Suppliers’ Day to be lo-cated in the future. The move has been well received by our exhibitors and the show floor will be 10% larger. The Board and committee members’ also took careful consideration into the cost of doing busi-ness in New York City and crafted a cost structure to ensure that the Suppliers’ Day show at the world renowned Javits Center continues to be cost effective and a good value.

EURO COSMETICS: How can participants benefit from the new location? Marie Thadal: Suppliers’ Day at the Javits Center will now be held all under one roof in one contiguous hall at the convention center. Being at a venue that is in the heart of the global beauty and fashion community as well as a hub for our industries’ product development and marketing, attendees can travel by train, bus, and the new 34th street/Hudson Yards subway stop right by the Javits Center. Additionally, Suppliers’ Day will be having shuttles

running back and forth from Penn Station, Grand Central and Port Authority – as well as all designated hotels. And, even from two New Jersey locations. New features and show experiences that attendees can expect at Suppliers’ Day 2017 include: • Pre-Show SCC Workshops: Becoming a

Cosmetic Chemist and Cosmetic Formu-lations

• A Ribbon Cutting ceremony with past NYSCC presidents & WAR PAINT per-formers

• Innovations Alley• French Pavilion• Future Chemists Workshop• Digital Age of Beauty• Discover Sustainability @ Suppliers’ Day

2017• Awards Night Party and sustainability

innovations celebration• Special tickets to the new Broadway

musical WAR PAINT celebrating Helena Rubinstein and Elizabeth Arden

EURO COSMETICS: What innovations will be there this year? Marie Thadal: Suppliers’ Day has become the leading event for the introduction and access to the latest innovation in the cos-metic industry from leading manufactur-ers, suppliers and distributors of raw materials and ingredients. Suppliers of testing, measurement and research equip-ment, as well as innovative service solu-tions and software providers, packaging designers and suppliers also feature novel products and services.

EURO COSMETICS: At the first time you orga-

nize a Kick-Off party. Please tell us more about this event. Marie Thadal: The NYSCC Awards Night Party will take place the evening of May 2nd at Stage 48 in NY. It is a celebration designed to bring our membership togeth-er in a social setting to acknowledge our move to NYC, and showcase those compa-nies in our industry that have exhibited a leadership position on sustainability. Companies like Alban Muller, Croda and Seppic were recognized as “Most Sustain-able Company” by NYSCC in February, and will also bring their expertise to the DISCOVER SUSTAINBILITY @ Suppliers’ Day on the exhibit floor on May 3rd 2017. We also will be recognizing the year’s best sustainability efforts from our exhibitors. There will be a registration table for non members to join the SCC and the Awards Night Party will be a great tine to relax after the show, have fun with peers from the cosmetic industry, make new business connections, and learn about all that being a SCC membership has to offer.

EURO COSMETICS: How do you see the future development of the show? Marie Thadal: The national SCC as well as the 19 chapters that make up our society is committed to having local events occur throughout the US. These shows and events are strategically designed to meet the business and education needs of the local members. The NYSCC Suppliers’ Day will continue to reach out to bring innova-tion from all areas of the globe and to en-hance the show experience for all participants. The long term sustainability of the chapter is paramount and is made possible because of the success of Suppli-ers’ Day and its hard-working committee, which in turn fuels NYSCC’s ability to meet the educational mission of the chapter- providing advance best practices in con-sumer education, sourcing, sustainability and more.

EURO COSMETICS: Thank you for the con-versation. n

Interview with Marie Thadal, Chair 2017, New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC)

Marie Thadal, Chair 2017, NYSCC

45 EURO COSMETICS5-2017

PACKAGING & MACHINES

KRÜSS stellt erstmalig einen völlig neu entwickelten Bildauswertealgorithmus für Kontaktwinkel in der Software ADVANCE vor.

Für die Analyse von Benetzung und Haftung detektiert die Software die Trop-fenkontur und die Grenze zwischen Trop-fen und Oberfläche (Basislinie) auch bei starken Störungen, zum Beispiel durch Fremdlicht oder Schatten, die bei her-kömmlicher Software automatisierte Aus-wertungen nicht zulassen.

Dass die Bildanalyse so gut wie immer automatisch erfolgen kann, beschleunigt zum einen die Kontaktwinkelmessung, zum anderen wird diese unabhängiger vom Benutzer, da keine manuellen Ein-griffe mehr notwendig sind.

Sehr deutlich wird die Leistungsfähig-keit der Software bei positionsabhängigen Benetzungsmessungen, beispielsweise um die Homogenität einer Beschichtung oder

KRÜSS presents a completely new im-age evaluation algorithm for contact an-gles in the ADVANCE software.

For analyzing wetting and adhesion, the software detects the drop shape and the interface between drop and surface (base line), even in the face of severe interfer-ence, which can be caused by extraneous light or shadows, for example. With con-ventional software, these cases make eval-uation difficult, whereas ADVANCE can almost always carry it out automatically, which makes the measurement of contact angles faster. Furthermore, the analysis becomes less dependent on the user, as manual intervention is no longer required.

The effectiveness of the software be-comes particularly noticeable with posi-tion-dependent wetting measurements, for instance when checking the homoge-neity of a coating or cleaning process. In this case, drops are frequently dosed onto a number of sample positions in a rectan-gular matrix. Therefore, several drops lie on a line between the illumination source and the camera of the contact angle meas-uring instrument. Previously, drops had to be removed in the course of the measure-ment to ensure that they did not throw troublesome shadows. The extremely ro-bust image evaluation of ADVANCE makes this step obsolete.

In many applications, such as quality control of glass cleaning processes, very flat drops form as a result of samples with good wettability. This range between 1° and 10°, which was previously techni-cally difficult to measure, is resolved out-standingly well with the new algorithm. ADVANCE is therefore able to detect the smallest inhomogeneities in the course of programmed procedures.

KRÜSS Managing Director Florian

KRÜSS software revolutionizes drop shape analysis for contact angle measurement

KRÜSS Software revolutioniert die Tropfenkonturanalyse bei der Kontaktwinkelmessung

Weser sees the further development of ADVANCE as a milestone in interfacial sci-ence.

Reinigung zu prüfen. Dabei werden Trop-fen häufig auf viele Probenpositionen in einer rechteckigen Matrix dosiert. Daher liegen jeweils mehrere Tropfen auf einer Linie zwischen der Beleuchtung und der Kamera des Kontaktwinkel-Messinstru-ments. Früher mussten dann Tropfen wäh-rend des Messablaufs entfernt werden, damit sie keinen störenden Schatten wer-fen. Dank der äußerst robusten Bildaus-wertung mit ADVANCE kann dieser Schritt entfallen.

Bei vielen Anwendungen, wie etwa der Qualitätskontrolle einer Glasreinigung, bilden sich aufgrund gut benetzbarer Pro-ben sehr flache Tropfen. Dieser bisher messtechnisch schwer zu erfassende Be-reich zwischen 1° und 10° wird mit dem neuen Algorithmus hervorragend aufge-löst. So kann ADVANCE geringste Inho-mogenitäten im Zuge programmierter Prozeduren detektieren.

KRÜSS Geschäftsführer Florian Weser sieht in der Weiterentwicklung von ADVANCE einen Meilenstein in der Grenz-flächenwissenschaft.

Contact:KRÜSS GmbHBorsteler Chaussee 8522453 Hamburg www.kruss.de n

Automatic contact angle measurement on a close succession of drops with ADVANCEAutomatische Kontaktwinkelmessung an eng hintereinander liegenden Tropfen mit ADVANCE

INTER-EURO MEDIEN GMBHEuro Cosmetics

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info@eurocosmetics.de

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July/August 201523. JAHRGANG / VOLUME NO. 23

E n g l i s h / G e r m a n

Contents: Editorial 5

Names & News 6

Interview

A conversation with 11

Florian Preuße, Dipl. Ing. (FH),Director of Development/

Cosmetics Application Technology,

Worlée Cosmetics

Technical Articles

The Signifi cance of Homeostasis 16

on Skin Aging

By Howard Epstein, Ph. D. – Part 2

Unique Multifunctional Polyurethane 22

Film Formers for Creating Long Lasting

and Vibrant Hair Styles By Yuliya Berezkin and Dr. Yash Kamath

Specialty Silicones Provide Long-Lasting 30

Color and Unique Sensory Experience

By Marc Eeman et al.

Color Cosmetics: Their Anti-Aging Effi cacy, 33

Issues, Opportunities and Innovation By Jeannette Graf, M.D.

Trends & Markets

Trends in ethnic cosmetics: 36

targeting the needs of a growth demographic

By Imogen Matthews

New Ingredients 37

New Products 39

Formulations 42

Packaging & Machines 44

Events

CosmeticBusiness in Munich 45

in-cosmetics Brazil 45

in-cosmetics Korea 46

Advertiser’s Index 47

Market-Place 48

Event Calendar 51

Impressum 47

7/8 Special

RAW MATERIAL GUIDE 2015 20V o l u m e N o .

BRODATECH

June 201523. JAHRGANG / VOLUME NO. 23

E n g l i s h / G e r m a n

Contents:

Visit us at

Cosmetic Business in Munich

June 10-11, 2015

Hall 3, Booth D 18

Editorial 5

Names & News 6

InterviewA conversation with Nilesh Shah, 8Global R&D Director of Dow Home, Institutional and Personal Care Solutions, about new effective anti-aging technologies

A conversation with Tracy Doherty, 10Senior Director of Customer Marketing, MeadWestvaco (MWV)

Technical ArticlesWhen skin is getting on in years 13A cosmetic approach against cellular ageing processes By Angela Kleiner

One ingredient that solves all the eye 19contour concerns By Alicia Gimenez et al.

Cosmetics Contract Manufacturing: 22A Bird's Eye View By Shyam Gupta, PhD

Use of Plant and Human Stem Cell Extracts 26in Cosmeceutical Anti-Aging Products By Jeannette Jacknin, MD

News & TalkA conversation with Dr. Francois Bouton, 30European Business Development Manager Cosmetics, Brenntag Holding GmbH,about INNOVI’s new GPS-S (Guiding Performance System - Surface)

Trends & MarketsSkin ageing: the evolution of the 34anti-ageing trend By Imogen Matthews

Sara Speaks – The Promise of Stem Cells 35for Skin & Hair Rejuvenation By Sara Mason

New Ingredients 38

New Products 40

Formulations 41

Packaging & Machines 43

EventsBeyond Beauty Paris 46Cosmetics Packaging 46

Advertiser’s Index 47

Market-Place 48

Event Calendar 51

Impressum 47

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