0

COSMETOLOGY

PROFESSIONAL COURSE

Module 27

1

27. Module 27: Skin care

Table of Contents

27. Module 27: Skin care .............................................................................................................................................. 1

27.1 Tips for Types – Skincare for Different Ethnicities ............................................................................... 2

27.2 Skin Differences between Different Ethnicities .................................................................................... 3

27.3 Black Skin ........................................................................................................................................... 9

27.3.1 Looking after Black Skin ................................................................................................................ 9

27.4 Caucasian Skin ................................................................................................................................. 10

27.5 Hispanic Skin .................................................................................................................................... 11

27.6 Pacific Islander Skin.......................................................................................................................... 13

2

27.1 Tips for Types – Skincare for Different Ethnicities

Deep down we are all the same, but there are a few differences in the skin’s appearance and vulnerability

depending on where you hail from in the world. This module consists of the following things:

Skin Differences between Different Ethnicities

. Asian Skin

. Black Skin

Caucasian Skin

. Hispanic Skin

. Pacific Islander Skin

3

27.2 Skin Differences between Different Ethnicities

4

The ethnic origins of a person greatly influence the structure of their skin and its appearance. In the context of

skin, the word ‘ethnicity’ does not only refer to the colour of a person’s skin and where they are from, but it

also refers to the different cultural factors and their environment that impact the skin’s health and overall

appearance. Each ethnicity has a different skin structure and naturally, this reflects in the way a person should

look after their skin.

A person’s skin colour and their pigmentation of the skin are determined by the distribution and density of

melanin, which is responsible for the skin’s pigmentation. Every ethnic group has a comparable amount of

melanocytes in their skin; however, what is different is their activity.

5

6

7

Asian Skincare Routine

1. Use an oil cleanser or a cleansing balm to remove any traces of make-up. This is referred to as

the pre-cleansing stage.

2. Use a foam gel cleanser to thoroughly clean the skin after the removal of any make-up. Opt for

a cleanser with pH 7 or lower as higher pH level cleansers can damage the skin’s natural protective

barrier making you more susceptible to UV damage.

3. Toners are fine on Asian skin because their skin is less sensitive. Opt for a toner with good

astringent properties that will add more moisture.

8

4. If you need to use eye cream, opt for a light eye cream and dab it around the eye’s problem areas.

5. If your skin is looking dull, try using a serum once a week which will assist in common Asian

skin problems such as hyperpigmentation, acne, and dullness.

6. Asians do not suffer from dry skin so much, so if you are looking for a light moisturising treatment

opt for an Emulsion. Emulsion helps give enough moisture to the skin and acts as a brightener.

7. Asians tend to be more prone to acne breakouts due to their skin’s pores being smaller and closer

together, which is why after you have moisturised you can also treat your spots if necessary. Use

a retinoid product that contains benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid to reduce the skin’s redness and

susceptibility to skin infection.

8. During your morning routine apply high SPF sun cream.

9

27.3 Black Skin

African or darker skin is considerably different to lighter looking skin due to its higher concentration of

melanin. Dark-skinned people generally do not show signs of ageing until they are much older and have fewer

wrinkles.

Due to having a darker skin tone, black people are more likely to have visible scarring especially acne and

surface wound scars. This hyperpigmentation is the result of the melanocytes that are in the infected area

becoming more stimulated by the sun’s exposure.

27.3.1 Looking after Black Skin

The more melanin you have in your body, the darker your skin tone is. It is true that darker-skinned people

have a greater tolerance to the sun than those who have lighter skin tones; however, there is also a

misconception that darker skinned people do not burn. This is very untrue, and if you have black skin, you

still need to take proper care of it and take measures against the sun to ensure your skin looks its best for a

longer period of time.

1. It is important to moisturise your skin on a daily basis. Darker and black skin tones tend to be

dryer than other skin tones, and when they become too dry, they appear ashy looking. Experts

recommend using a lubricating facial moisturiser that has humectants. These humectants attract

water and moisture, which will help keep your skin feeling and looking soft and supple. If you

suffer from oily skin, it is better for you to opt for an oil-free cleanser that is not going to clog

your pores up.

2. Wash your skin every day using a moisturising body wash. If you have darker skin, you should

look out for ingredients such as urea, glycerin, dimethicone, and hyaluronic acid.

3. It is also necessary for you to exfoliate your skin often. Those with darker skin tones are prone to

rougher skin and bumps, which are caused by dead skin cells building up. If you suffer from either

dry or thin skin, exfoliate once a week. If you have either oily or combination skin, you need to

exfoliate between two to three times per week.

4. If you have darker skin, you ought to include using a toner into your skincare regime. Toners do

not work well on sensitive skin types, but they do have some benefits, such as helping to restore

your skin’s natural pH balance. If you have oily skin, a toner would be ideal as it reduces oil

secretions and at the same time it gets rid of those dead skin cells which are responsible for the

rough and bumpy skin.

10

5. Just because you have darker skin, it does not mean the sun cannot harm you. It is necessary for

you to protect your skin from the sun by wearing daily sun cream with an SPF 15 or higher.

1. Using a moisturiser daily is essential to achieve a balanced black skincare regime. Again you need

to look for products that contain humectants or other products that will draw more water to the

skin. Look for alcohol free and scent free moisturisers as those that contain these ingredients will

only dry the skin out more. Since you are trying add more moisture to the face, avoid products

that contain vitamin A or retinol as these will just rob your skin of its moisture.

27.4 Caucasian Skin

When it comes to Caucasian ethnicities there are a variety of different skin tones that range in colour such as

fair, ivory, beige, golden, and olive. Fair-skinned people come from all over the world and the skin tone is

usually regional with those coming from the northern and eastern parts of Europe having fairer complexions

and those coming from the Mediterranean regions having more of an olive-skinned complexion.

Fair skin is usually thinner and reacts easily to the elements. It is vulnerable to UV damage. Fairer

skin burns quicker and when irritated, it is noticeably red.

Beige and olive skin usually is thicker than fair skin. These skin tones can withstand the sun’s rays

more, however, just because they have darker skin it does not mean they are protected. Beige and

olive skin complexions are more prone to having oily skin with occasional breakouts of acne and

blackheads. Scarring in people with these skin tones is more prominent than people with a lighter

coloured skin.

Caucasian Skin and the Sun

Caucasians are more vulnerable to the sun and burn much quicker than other ethnicities. Additionally, there

is a higher percentage of skin cancer sufferers in the Caucasian block. Caucasian skin can be divided into three

categories regarding sun exposure and the effects on its skin.

1. Always burns, but never tans

2. Always burns and tans sometimes

3. Sometimes burns and always tans

11

In the equatorial regions of the world like South Africa and Australia there are even higher rates of skin cancer

amongst Caucasians due to the higher intensity of UV rays. To protect your skin from melanoma and prevent

premature ageing, people with Caucasian skin must wear a sun block with at least an SPF15 on daily basis

regardless of whether it is sunny or not.

Caucasians age quicker in their looks compared to Asian and African ethnicities that have higher levels of

concentrated melanin in their skin. Premature wrinkling and a loss of the skin’s firmness and elasticity are

especially problematic for Caucasians. Caucasians should take extra precautions against the sun, treat the skin

well and follow a diet rich in antioxidants. Look for skincare products that include the following to combat

premature ageing.

Vitamin C

Glycolic acid

Alpha-hydroxyl acid

27.5 Hispanic Skin

Hispanic or Latino ethnicities from South America originally come from Spain or Portugal therefore they

typically share some of the same skin characteristics as Caucasian people from the Mediterranean. Hispanic

communities in the Caribbean tend to have darker skin due to their African ancestry and as a result they share

many of the same skin characteristics with black people, and this is why there is not a one-solution fits all for

those from a Hispanic or Latino background when it comes to their skin. Lighter skinned Hispanics have less

melanin than darker-skinned people of the same ethnicity; however, they do share some similar skin care

problems that are typical in the Hispanic race.

Main Skin Concerns for Hispanics and Latina People

Hyperpigmentationis when there are increased levels of concentrated melanin in the skin resulting in darker

patches and marks. Freckles and other blemishes caused by the sun are also prominent in Hispanic people.

Use a good broad spectrum sun cream with an SPF of at least 15 on a daily basis to prevent new

hyperpigmentation marks from appearing.

Hispanic people are more prone to a skin condition called vitiligo, which results in the skin’s loss of

melanin. There are a number of options used to treat vitiligo with the more extreme being the use of topical

creams to bleach the skin and even out the colour. However, it is better to take preventative measures and use

12

a high SPF sun block and cover up in the sun. Vitiligo is less common than hyperpigmentation and it is more

common in countries closer to the equator like Ecuador and Venezuela.

Acne is a common skin problem in the Hispanic community. Typically, Hispanic people have higher levels of

sebum oil in their skin leading to enlarged pores and acne breakouts. Due to the olive and darker complexions

of Hispanics there is more risk of acne scarring.

Stretch marks are common in all ethnicities, but darker Hispanics have more of a tendency to develop them,

especially during pregnancy. Stretch marks on Latina people are more prominent due to their darker skin

tones. To prevent developing stretch marks use a good moisturiser to make your skin more pliant.

Additionally, apply more sun cream to the areas where there are already stretch marks to prevent them

becoming darker.

Wrinkles are more prominent in olive-skinned Hispanics due to their Caucasian heritage. Protect your skin

from the sun and moisturise daily to prevent premature wrinkles.

Taking Care of Your Hispanic Skin

1. When cleansing your skin, it is better to opt for mild cleansers which have been designed for

sensitive skin types because chemical-laden products may interfere with your skin’s melanin

pigmentation.

2. Latino women have more problems with acne due to their naturally oilier skin which results in

frequent acne and blackhead breakouts. Try using a clay mask once or twice a week to give your

skin a deep cleanse, restoring lost moisture and the skin’s oil balance. Clay is the perfect

ingredient for face masks to fight acne as they slowly draw out the skin’s dirt and toxins from

deep within a person’s pores bringing them to the surface so they can then be washed away.

3. It is a misconception that Latinos do not burn or are prone to the negative effects of the sun. It is

quite the contrary and since they are more prone to hypigmentation, it is essential to protect the

skin. If you do not want to apply a separate sun cream on top of your moisturiser every day, look

for a moisturiser which is SPF 15. If you already have prominent dark marks due to

hyperpigmentation, you can try microdermabrasion, which is a professional treatment carried out

by dermatologists. This treatment will exfoliate the old layer of skin away that has been affected

by hyperpigmentation.

4. Hispanics are envied all around their world for their rich golden skin. To achieve this look it is

essential to cleanse daily, apply sun cream and nurture your skin from the inside out. To maintain

that much coveted look, it is essential to maintain a healthy weight and eat a well-balanced diet

13

which includes a lot of vegetables, fruits, lean proteins, and whole grains that are rich in

antioxidants.

27.6 Pacific Islander Skin

Pacific Islanders hail from the islands in the South-West Pacific in and around New Zealand and Australia.

Typically, Pacific Islanders carry more weight than other ethnicities due to their genetic makeup and diets.

Pacific Islanders typically eat a lot of fresh produce full of antioxidants which leaves their skin in good

condition. Islanders’ skin tone varies greatly from light olive complexions to darker complexions. The skin

of Pacific Islanders is thicker and has more of a leathery texture and appearance due to their adaptation to their

extreme heat and genetic makeup.

Due to diets, extra weight, and more melanin in their skin, Pacific Islanders are more prone to

acne breakouts. Due to the hot climate they live in, this is then worsened by hyperpigmentation.

Pacific Islanders have more natural SPF in their skin, which decreases their risk of developing

skin cancer.

Like African, Hispanic and Asian ethnicities, Pacific Islanders are prone to hypigmentation of the

skin, especially in the areas of the nose, forehead, cheeks, shoulders, chest, and hands.

In hotter climes, Pacific Islanders produce more oil than other ethnicities, which can be controlled

by using blotting papers.

14

Well on Pacific Islander Skin

1. Retinol Serum that is concentrated works well on Pacific Islander skin. Look for higher

concentrations of 0.5%. Retinol serum helps reduce lines, smoothes the skin and offers the skin a

deep skin moisturising, which is necessary with thicker Pacific Islander skin.

2. Vitamin C Serummoisturises and protects the skin from environmental stressors due to its high

antioxidant content. Look for a serum that has a vitamin C concentrate of 15%.

3. Blotting papers are a must-have for pacific island women who tend to produce more oil and are

more exposed to heat and humidity. Blotting papers vary in their ability to absorb, but blotting

papers made out of natural ingredients such as banana leaves have the ability to absorb more oil.

4. Sun cream is necessary to prevent your skin from getting darker and developing

hyperpigmentation. Opt for sun creams with natural properties such as zinc oxide and titanium

oxide rather than chemicals that tend to be oilier.

5. Acne treatment with a 2% salicyclic acid works best as opposed to acne treatments with alpha

hydroxyl acids. Salicyclic acid will penetrate deep within the skins pores and help control oilier

skin which is prominent in the Pacific Island group.