CosmetologyCosmetologyMayer page 558Mayer page 558

““the study of beautifying and the study of beautifying and improving the complexion, improving the complexion,

skin, hair, and nails”skin, hair, and nails”

PurposesPurposes

Klicker page 167Klicker page 167 1) replace coloring1) replace coloring 2) compensate for FH lighting2) compensate for FH lighting 3) well-groomed appearance3) well-groomed appearance 4) create a comforting memory picture4) create a comforting memory picture 5) accent or de-emphasize features5) accent or de-emphasize features 6) harmonize complexion coloring with 6) harmonize complexion coloring with

clothing, clothing, casket interior etc.casket interior etc. 7) conceal discolorations7) conceal discolorations 8) match wax with complexion color8) match wax with complexion color

Naturalism in CosmetologyNaturalism in Cosmetology

Ornamental CosmetologyOrnamental CosmetologyKlicker page 169Klicker page 169

Pigments of the SkinPigments of the Skin

Klicker page 170; Mayer page 565Klicker page 170; Mayer page 565 1) melanin: “brown to black-brown 1) melanin: “brown to black-brown

pigment in the epidermis and hairpigment in the epidermis and hair

2) carotene: “yellow pigment of the skin”2) carotene: “yellow pigment of the skin”

3) hemoglobin: “oxygenated blood of the 3) hemoglobin: “oxygenated blood of the arteries which influences the color of the skin by arteries which influences the color of the skin by way of its presence in the superficial capillaries”way of its presence in the superficial capillaries”

ComplexionComplexion

Klicker page 170; Mayer page 565Klicker page 170; Mayer page 565 Types/Classifications: light, medium, Types/Classifications: light, medium,

dark and darkerdark and darker

Variations: red, yellow, brownVariations: red, yellow, brown

Deviations: bronze, purple, yellow, Deviations: bronze, purple, yellow, green, gray, and yellow-browngreen, gray, and yellow-brown

Matching Complexions Using Matching Complexions Using Basic PigmentsBasic Pigments

Klicker page 169Klicker page 169 1) yellow1) yellow 2) red2) red 3) brown3) brown 4) white4) white

Types of External ColorTypes of External Color

Klicker page 168; Mayer page 569-Klicker page 168; Mayer page 569-570570

1) Transparent1) Transparent

2) Translucent2) Translucent

3) Opaque3) Opaque

Methods of Applying ColorMethods of Applying Color

Klicker page 168Klicker page 168

1) internal1) internal

2) external/surface application2) external/surface application Spray cosmetic application: Klicker p. Spray cosmetic application: Klicker p.

194-196194-196

Reduction of DensityReduction of Density

Mayer page 568Mayer page 568

Cosmetic Application at Hair Cosmetic Application at Hair RegionsRegions

Corrective ShapingCorrective ShapingKlicker page 187Klicker page 187

Highlighting or ShadowingHighlighting or Shadowing

CosmeticsCosmetics

Highlighting or ShadowingHighlighting or Shadowing

““application of a color which is lighter application of a color which is lighter or brighter than the complexion or brighter than the complexion would highlight the complexion; would highlight the complexion; application of a color darker than the application of a color darker than the complexion color would shadow the complexion color would shadow the complexion”complexion”

ShadowingShadowing

Klicker page 183; Mayer pages 574-575Klicker page 183; Mayer pages 574-575 Eye ShadowEye Shadow Orbital CavityOrbital Cavity ForeheadForehead Nasolabial FoldsNasolabial Folds CheekboneCheekbone MouthMouth ChinChin DimplesDimples

HighlightingHighlighting

ForeheadForehead

NoseNose

ChinChin

Warm Color AreasWarm Color Areas

Klicker page 175; Mayer page 572, Klicker page 175; Mayer page 572, 582-52582-52

Face: cheeks, chin, ears, lips Face: cheeks, chin, ears, lips (mucous membranes), lower parts of (mucous membranes), lower parts of the nose and foreheadthe nose and forehead

Hands: knuckles, fingernails, cuticlesHands: knuckles, fingernails, cuticles

Corrective Shaping of the Corrective Shaping of the LipsLips

Klicker page 188Klicker page 188 Thickening the LipsThickening the Lips

Widening the LipsWidening the Lips

Thinning the LipsThinning the Lips

Narrowing the LipsNarrowing the Lips

Coloring the LipsColoring the Lips

Natural Effect: YouthfulNatural Effect: Youthful

AdultAdult

Old-ageOld-age

Crimson Lip ColorCrimson Lip Color

Ornamental EffectOrnamental Effect

Rouges and RougingRouges and RougingKlicker page 167; Mayer page 572Klicker page 167; Mayer page 572

Proper rouge application and Proper rouge application and color selection constitute two color selection constitute two of the most important phases of the most important phases

of mortuary cosmetologyof mortuary cosmetology

PurposePurpose

Replace the blood-color on nude skin.Replace the blood-color on nude skin. Create a florid or ruddy complexion.Create a florid or ruddy complexion. Combat absorptive effect of Combat absorptive effect of

illumination.illumination. Re-instate warm color areas.Re-instate warm color areas. Correctively shape the cheeks and Correctively shape the cheeks and

lips.lips.

ClassificationsClassifications

Klicker page 168Klicker page 168 Liquid: transparent, opaqueLiquid: transparent, opaque CreamCream PowderPowder LipLip

Natural RougingNatural Rouging

Klicker page 168; Mayer page 573Klicker page 168; Mayer page 573 From youth to middle-age, and then to old-From youth to middle-age, and then to old-

age, the color drops lower and lower on the age, the color drops lower and lower on the cheeks.cheeks.

InfantsInfants ChildrenChildren AdolescentsAdolescents Young AdultsYoung Adults Middle Age AdultsMiddle Age Adults Aged AdultsAged Adults

Ornamental RougingOrnamental Rouging

Violates the “rules” of natural Violates the “rules” of natural coloring.coloring.

Rouge is blended laterally from the Rouge is blended laterally from the zygomatic bone to the side of the zygomatic bone to the side of the face.face.

Do not apply rouge on the front Do not apply rouge on the front plane of the face, next to the nose, plane of the face, next to the nose, or the nasolabial fold.or the nasolabial fold.

Lip Rouging TechniquesLip Rouging Techniques

Klicker page 169 Klicker page 169 1) lining and filling1) lining and filling

2) vertical brush application2) vertical brush application

3) horizontal brush application3) horizontal brush application