copyright © 2012 by joy anderson, germanyatchristmas€¦ · flights on the various budget...

Copyright © 2012 by Joy Anderson, GermanyAtChristmas.com

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DISCLAIMERS

While every effort has been made to ensure that information in this book is accurate and up to date, readers are advised that travel information is subject to change at any time and publisher offers no warranty that any such information is correct. Readers should not rely solely on the

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In several cases, this book promotes and endorses products and/or services for which publisher may receive monetary compensation.

http://www.germanyatchristmas.com/

CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION ............................................................................... 3

AIR TRAVEL TO AND WITHIN GERMANY ...................................... 4

RAIL TRAVEL IN GERMANY ............................................................ 5

CHRISTMAS MARKET CRUISES ..................................................... 6

ITINERARY 1: Introducing Germany at Christmas ............................ 7

MUNICH ............................................................................................................ 8

NUREMBERG ................................................................................................. 10

DRESDEN ....................................................................................................... 11

BERLIN ........................................................................................................... 11

INTINERARIES 2-10 ....................................................................... 14


3

INTRODUCTION

This book is intended to be a companion volume to GermanyAtChristmas.com, a very personal blog that spotlights the centuries-old tradition of German Christmas markets. The itineraries are also personal recommendations, based for the most part on first-hand experience.

I started traveling in Germany about 20 years ago and visited my first Christmas markets in 2003. I’ve returned on four other occasions and have every intention of becoming acquainted with even more German cities and markets in the future. For the record, I’ve been a travel writer since the late 1980s and I promise you there’s nowhere I’d rather travel in December than to Germany. Starting in late November, around the first Sunday in Advent, rows of colorful market stalls spring up in the public squares, cathedral forecourts, and castle courtyards of virtually every city, town and village in Germany. These markets are magnets for local citizens as well as tourists--places to shop, eat, drink, hear live Christmas music, bring the little ones to meet Santa, and more, all in the most festive and congenial surroundings imaginable. Because Germany has so many, many markets in so many fascinating cities, choosing an itinerary that works for you is key to a successful visit. I’ve tried to use a common-sense approach in composing the following itineraries, taking into account geography, transit connections, travel times, and which cities and markets I feel are the must-sees. For this reason, destinations such as Berlin, Munich and Nuremberg are included more than once. Certain questions only you can answer: How long would you like to spend in Germany? How likely is it you’ll go more than once? Maybe you’ll be like me and become hooked, in which case, you might want to check out my book. The Ultimate Guide to the German Christmas Markets; Where to Go and What to Buy. I highly recommend that you read the next two pages on travel in Germany by air and by rail. There’s also a page on Christmas market cruises—a most delightful option. Whatever you decide: Gute Reise—Have a good trip! Joy

http://www.germanyatchristmas.com/


4

AIR TRAVEL TO AND WITHIN GERMANY

This is rather a broad subject with many facets, as anything related to air travel tends to be these days. My aim here is simply to provide a few basics that may help your travel planning go more smoothly.

Frankfurt, Munich and Düsseldorf are the principle German gateways for non-stop transatlantic flights. Stuttgart and Berlin also have several and Hamburg has one. At press time, the new Berlin Brandenburg Willy Brandt International Airport, is scheduled to launch in March 2013, though there have been some delays in the past.

You’ll notice that certain of the itineraries in this book start in one German city and end in another. In such cases you’ll want to search for an open-jaw ticket, i.e., a ticket where you fly into one city and out of another. To do so, search for a multi-city ticket on whichever airline booking engine you use.

Since there is no way to predict if the price quoted will be fair compared to a more standard round-trip ticket, if the disparity is too great, I suggest you look for an inexpensive one-way ticket from the last stop on the itinerary back to the airport where you arrived. Vayama specializes in international air travel and lists flights on the various budget European airlines on its website.

Whatever you decide be sure to allow enough time between connections in case of weather issues. In some cases, it might even be practical to take a train.

http://www.tkqlhce.com/click-4145769-10544707


5

RAIL TRAVEL IN GERMANY

Traveling by train in Germany is almost without exception my preferred means of getting around. The German railway system, Deutsche Bahn (DB), is super efficient, with top-notch equipment, frequent service, and a user-friendly online travel-planning interface, available in English. My first piece of advice is to buy your tickets in advance—seat reservations too. These are not terribly expensive and it’s advisable to have them on ICE (InterCity Express), IC (InterCity) and EC (EuroCity) trains. The good news is that everything can be booked and paid for online. The German Rail Pass is available to travelers who permanently reside outside of Europe, Russia and Turkey. In North America, it is sold through Rail Europe and offers unlimited rail travel in either first or second class, anywhere from three to ten days in one month. It’s particularly good value for two people traveling together on the same itinerary. Once you’ve reserved your seats, it’s very hassle free. Check out the Rail Europe Specials & Promotions page for special offers. That said, when traveling short distances, it is substantially more cost-effective to buy point-to-point tickets. Such individual tickets are also sold through Rail Europe; however, if you deal directly with Deutsche Bahn, there are several types of discounted tickets available that save even more money—especially when traveling with a group of up to five people. On the DB home page, click the Offers button on the top menu and you’ll be able to access the details of the following types of tickets: The DB Bahn Saver Fare (Sparpreis) is an ongoing discount offer available for all types of trains in both first and second class. There are also several types of Regional tickets. Länder-Tickets offer unlimited travel for a whole day within a particular geographical region—second class and regional trains only. Quel-Durchs-Land and Schönes Wochenende tickets are good for day trips when traveling outside of a region.

http://partners.webmasterplan.com/click.asp?ref=599622%20&site=2894&type=text&tnb=63

http://www.tkqlhce.com/click-4145769-10358521

http://www.dpbolvw.net/click-4145769-10410713

http://partners.webmasterplan.com/click.asp?ref=599622%20&site=2894&type=text&tnb=63


6

CHRISTMAS MARKET CRUISES

The final three itineraries in this book are all offered in conjunction with a Christmas market cruise. Speaking from experience, if you have never cruised, you are in for a treat. Cruising is possibly the easiest and most stress-free way of all to become acquainted with Germany at Christmas. In most cases, you’ll get to visit cities you might otherwise never have seen and you’ll probably wind up falling in love with them—and, of course, their Christmas markets. River cruising is not quite the same as sea cruising. Both types include all meals but, on a river cruise, wine and shore excursions are rolled into the price as well. Smaller ships make for a cozier, more intimate experience. And there are no casinos on board. Once aboard and installed in your cabin, your primary task will be to unpack—just the one time—relax, reconnoiter, and start making new friends. I won’t lie to you: river cruising in winter is not the same as in spring or summer. You may or may not decide to bundle up and venture onto the top deck to admire the scenery, though were it to snow it would be worth braving the elements. Not to worry; there is more than enough beauty ashore. Although there are organized tours in just about every port of call, you are by no means obliged to tag along if your preference is to strike out on your own. Starting out with the group will help orient you, however, and is an easy way to sample the top sights. Typically there will be plenty of free time for you to explore the Christmas markets. If time allows, consider having either lunch or dinner in a local restaurant—or, at the very least, coffee and pastry. Some of those historic cafes are superb. The ship’s pursers will be able to advise you about how long the ship will be in port and when you need to be back on board. In many cases the ship will be moored close to the center of town and you can just walk or—if too laden down with Christmas market booty—hop in a taxi. The different cruise lines tend to offer similar itineraries on the same rivers. Cruises generally travel in both directions and, if a particular cruise is too long, shorter segments are sometimes allowed. Cruise lines can also book air travel as well as pre- and post-cruise city stays. Many passengers, however, prefer to make their own arrangements.


7

ITINERARY 1: Introducing Germany at Christmas

MUNICH, NUREMBERG, DRESDEN, BERLIN

Best way to travel: Train; direct, high-speed service between all points. Length of rail journey: Munich to Nuremberg (1 hr. 17 min.), Nuremberg to Dresden (4 hr. 15 min.), Dresden to Berlin (2 hr. 9 min.) Best value: Point-to-point DB Bahn Saver tickets (advance purchase) Least hassle: German Rail Pass (especially good value for two people traveling together)


8

This itinerary is close to the one I followed on my first Christmas market trip. Only Nuremberg was not included on that occasion. I strongly recommend other first-timers to start their journeys in Munich for the full this-is-what-I-dreamed-a-German-Christmas-market-would-be-like experience.

MUNICH

MUNICH: Your first stop should be the main Christkindlmarkt (Christmas market) in the Marienplatz, which will be even better if you can wait until around 4:00 pm when it gets dark. The historic town square is filled with hundreds of merchant stalls, an enormous Christmas tree, lights everywhere, plus an overwhelming variety of things to buy, to eat, to drink, happy throngs, music . . . It’s hard to imagine a more Christmassy market, though, in truth, many other German Christmas markets are just as festive and memorable in their own ways.

Munich has at least 25 other markets. My favorites are those in the artists’ quarter of Schwabing, the small market around the Chinese Tower in the English Garden (for the romantic setting), and the Medieval Christmas Fair near Odeonsplatz. Close to the Marienplatz and some of the smaller Christmas markets, the Viktualienmarkt is probably the city’s best spot for informal daytime eating. It’s a huge open-air food market with plenty of prepared items—sausages, cheeses, pretzels, etc.--you can nibble either while walking or standing around a high table. (The same as at most Christmas markets.)

And make it a point to get to one of the legendary beer halls. The Hofbraühaus is probably the most famous.

http://www.hofbraeuhaus.de/en/index_en.html


9

If time allows, try to sample Munich’s cultural side at museums such as the Alte Pinakothek and the Pinakothek der Moderne, or book seats for a performance at the Bavarian State Opera House. The collection of elaborate nativity scenes (Krippen in German, but frequently translated as “cribs”) in the Bavarian National Musuem is one of the largest in the world and extremely impressive. Many are life size.

More on Munich from GermanyAtChristmas.com Munich: My first and favorite Christmas Market After the Christmas market cruise: Rediscovering Munich

Munich Tourism Munich at Christmas

http://www.pinakothek.de/en/alte-pinakothek

http://www.pinakothek.de/en/alte-pinakothek

http://www.pinakothek.de/en/pinakothek-der-moderne

http://www.bayerische.staatsoper.de/866-ZmxhZz0xJmw9ZW4-~Staatsoper~bso_aktuell~aktuelles.html

http://www.bayerisches-nationalmuseum.de/index.php?id=287

http://www.bayerisches-nationalmuseum.de/index.php?id=287

http://www.germanyatchristmas.com/munich-my-first-and-favorite-christmas-market/

http://www.germanyatchristmas.com/after-the-christmas-market-cruise-rediscovering-munich/

http://www.muenchen.de/int/en/

http://bit.ly/PaT6U3


10

NUREMBERG

NUREMBERG: Everyone agrees that Nuremberg’s Christkindlesmarkt is the most famous Christmas market in all of Germany, attracting around two million visitors each season. The Nuremberg Christkindl, a golden-haired maiden dressed as an angel, presides at the opening ceremony and has become an ambassador for the city.

U The market with its red-and-white canopied booths is known locally as the Little Town of Wood and Cloth and one of its nicest features is that plastic and/or any mass produced items are simply not allowed. Nuremberger specialties include Lebkuchen (gingerbread), “plum people,” and handmade toys. The medieval old town, though mostly destroyed during the war has been painstakingly reconstructed. It’s a pleasant stroll from the Hauptmarkt where the Christmas market is held along cobblestoned alleyways up to Nuremberg Castle. The panoramic view is worth the effort as is the castle itself.

Those with an interest in World War II history will have yet another reason to find Nuremberg a fascinating destination.

More on Nuremberg from GermanyAtChristmas.com Nuremberg: More than Germany’s most famous Christmas market Nuremberg: the Christmas Market and the Old Town Nuremberg Tourism Nuremberg at Christmas

Stadt Nürnberg

http://www.germanyatchristmas.com/nuremberg-more-than-germanys-most-famous-christmas-market/

http://www.germanyatchristmas.com/nuremberg-the-christmas-market-and-the-old-town/

http://www.nuernberg.de/internet/portal_e/index.html

http://bit.ly/PHEkzQ


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DRESDEN

DRESDEN: If Nuremberg’s market is Germany’s most famous, Dresden’s Striezelmarkt is the oldest, dating back to 1434. This is a great place to shop for traditional wooden Christmas decorations such as nutcrackers, pyramids and candle arches from the nearby Erzgebirge region. And Dresdener Christstollen, or just plain Stollen, is a wonderful sweet bread and Christmas specialty. Other notable markets—both nearby—are the Medieval Market in the mews of the Royal Palace and Advent on Neumarkt, by the Frauenkirche, which is my favorite. The Frauenkirche is Germany’s largest protestant

church but, along with most of the city, it was obliterated in the firebombing at the end of the Second World War. Although many of Dresden’s most important historic buildings had already been reconstructed, work on the Frauenkirche was not completed until 2005. It’s hard to imagine visiting Dresden now without also visiting its most beloved landmark. Another must-see cultural site is the Zwinger, a museum quadrangle with gardens and fountains. The Old Masters Gallery is particularly fine. It’s home to Raphael’s Sistine Madonna, whose enchanting cherubs have become an unofficial emblem of the city of Dresden. You’ll need advance tickets to view the amazing treasure trove housed in the New Green Vault as well as the newly restored Historic Green Vault, both in the Royal Palace, or Residenzschloß. Dresden also has several what can best be described as theme restaurants, conjuring up the city in its 18th-century glory days. I’ve been to a couple—Pulverturm and Sophienkeller—and both are very fun, especially with a group. More on Dresden from GermanyAtChristmas.com Dresden: Germany’s oldest Christmas market Dresden Tourism Dresden at Christmas BERLIN

Christoph Münch

http://www.frauenkirche-dresden.de/startseite+M5f41a065bdb.html

http://www.skd.museum/en/museums-institutions/zwinger-with-semperbau/index.html

http://www.skd.museum/en/museums-institutions/residenzschloss/gruenes-gewoelbe/index.html

http://www.pulverturm-dresden.de/?page=start&lang=en&PHPSESSID=34fc215d4308fb53f75e163b6ca4aa0f

http://www.sophienkeller-dresden.de/index.php?page=start&lang=en

http://www.germanyatchristmas.com/dresden-germanys-oldest/

http://bit.ly/qA1L0T

http://www.dresden.de/dtg/en/veranstaltungen/weihnachtszeit.php


12

BERLIN: Germany’s fascinating capital is said to have more than 60 Christmas markets. I’ve probably only been to around a dozen of the best-known ones and I definitely have my preferences. For me, the two most impressive large-scale (and also upscale) markets are WeihnachtsZauber at the Gendarmenmarkt in Mittte and the Christmas Market at Schloß Charlottenburg in the west. My other favorite markets are all in what used to be East Berlin: the daily Lucia Christmas Market and three weekend markets: the Environmental Christmas Market near Sophienstraße, the Ecological Christmas Market at Kollwitzplatz, and the Atl-Rixdorf Market (only one weekend).

Unless you’re an old Berlin hand, you’ll surely want to allow time for at least a few of the best-known year-round attractions. The historic center of the city is called Mitte and, until the fall of the Berlin Wall, it was pretty much off limits to Westerners. Here you’ll find the Brandenburg Gate and the Reichstag, the seat of Germany’s Parliament, now topped by a stunning glass dome. Ascend to the top and walk along the spiral ramp beneath the dome. The reward is a wonderful panoramic vista of Berlin as well as a bird’s-eye view of the legislative chambers below your feet. Currently, it’s necessary to book Reichstag visits in advance, which can be done online.

Not far away is Museum Island: 14 acres with five world-class museums. For me, the obvious must-sees are the bust of Nefertiti, newly relocated to the Neues Museum, and, in the Pergamon Museum, the monumental blue-and-gold Ishtar Gate from the time of Nebuchadnezzar, reconstructed from fragments of the original structure.

http://www.bundestag.de/htdocs_e/visits/kupp.html

http://www.smb.museum/smb/standorte/index.php?p=2&objID=25&n=13

http://www.smb.museum/smb/standorte/index.php?p=2&objID=27&n=15


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Across from the island on the other side of the River Spree is the Berliner Dom, Berlin’s protestant cathedral. During Advent there are various opportunities to attend services and hear—and even sing—Christmas music.

visitberlin.de/koch

And this is just Mitte. You’ll want to explore West and East Berlin as well—see city link below. More on Berlin from GermanyAtChristmas.com A Capital Christmas in Berlin’s Capital City Berlin: So Many Christmas Markets . . . Christmas in Berlin: The Old and the New Lucia Weihnachtsmarkt: A Swedish Christmas in Berlin Potsdamer Platz: Traditional Christmas Pleasures in the Heart of New Berlin Berlin: Christmas at Another Palace Berlin Tourism Berlin at Christmas

http://www.berlinerdom.de/index.php?lang=en

http://www.germanyatchristmas.com/berlin-a-capital-christmas-in-germanys-capital-city/

http://www.germanyatchristmas.com/berlin-so-many-christmas-markets/

http://www.germanyatchristmas.com/christmas-in-berlin-the-new-and-the-old/

http://www.germanyatchristmas.com/lucia-weihnachtsmarkt-a-swedish-christmas-in-berlin/

http://www.germanyatchristmas.com/potsdamer-platz-traditional-christmas-pleasures-in-the-heart-of-new-berlin/

http://www.germanyatchristmas.com/berlin-christmas-at-another-palace/

http://www.visitberlin.de/en

http://bit.ly/rth9aK


14

INTINERARIES 2-10

ITINERARY 2: Bavaria at Christmas Munich, Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Bamberg, Nuremberg, Munich

Bavaria has always had its own distinct flavor and identity. If you’re looking for beer in overflowing steins served by dirndl-clad waitresses, men in Lederhosen playing the accordion, and beautiful Alpine scenery, you’ll find them all here. And, if what you seek are some of Germany’s most romantic Christmas markets, they are definitely here as well.

ITINERARY 3: Munich Day Trips Munich to Neuschwanstein, Hohenschwangau and Füssen Munich to Salzburg

If you’re the kind of traveler who prefers to check into one hotel in one city to avoid the hassle of unpacking, repacking, relocating, unpacking and so forth, it may make sense to choose a destination that offers easy day trips to other places of interest in the vicinity. Which brings us again to Munich. “Places of interest” in this case refer to King Ludwig II’s dream castles and Mozart’s enchanting birth city.

ITINERARY 4: Christmas and Culture in the East Berlin, Leipzig, Erfurt, Dresden, Berlin

A mere 23 years ago—with the exception of West Berlin—East Germany was barely open to travelers from the West. Reunification has changed all that. Today, cities damaged in the Second World War and subsequently rebuilt in conformity with Soviet-era aesthetics have for the most part been expertly restored to their original state. At Christmas they positively sparkle.


15

ITINERARY 5: A Hanseatic Christmas Hamburg, Lübeck. Bremen

Quick history refresher: the Hanseatic League was an all-powerful confederation of Northern European merchant cities that controlled trade on the Baltic and North Seas from the middle of the 13th to the middle of the 16th centuries. Hamburg, Lübeck and Bremen all have a distinct maritime flavor. With Hamburg as your home base it’s easy to do day trips to the other two.

ITINERARY 6: Best of the West Düsseldorf, Cologne, Aachen, Monschau

Itinerary 6 is a real potpourri: Düsseldorf is a dynamic 21st-century metropolitan business hub; Cologne is an ancient and distinguished city on the Rhine and home to Cologne Cathedral, Germany’s most-visited sight; Aachen is a smaller, very charming cathedral city and a spa resort; and Monschau is a picturesque hillside town full of half-timbered houses and a castle.

ITINERARY 7: Best of the West (Southern Route) Frankfurt am Main, Heidelberg, Baden-Baden, Stuttgart

With the exception of Frankfurt, which is in Hesse, this itinerary focuses on the highly scenic state of Baden-Württemberg in Germany’s southwest corner. Frankfurt and Stuttgart are modern metropolises, Heidelberg is an ancient university town, and Baden- Baden is an über-fashionable spa resort.


16

ITINERARY 8: Christmas Market Cruising on the Rhine Amsterdam, Kinderdijk, Cologne, Koblenz, Rüdesheim, Heidelberg, Speyer, Strasbourg, Breisach/Colmar, Basel

On a summertime Rhine cruise, the river itself is the star, with hillside castle after hillside castle—not to mention the romantic Lorelei rocks. Come Advent, the spotlight shifts to the many lively Christmas markets in each port of call. On this particular itinerary, the cruise ship visits four different countries.

ITINERARY 9: Christmas Market Cruising on the Danube Vienna, Melk, Linz/Salzburg, Passau, Regensburg, Nuremberg, Prague

Holiday magic reigns at every stop along the way of this highly romantic Danube itinerary, both in the big-name destinations: Vienna, Salzburg and Nuremberg, and the lesser-known ones: Melk, Passau and especially Regensburg. Consider Prague, which is not officially part of the cruise, a special bonus.

ITINERARY 10: Christmas Market Cruising on the Main Nuremberg, Bamberg, Kitzingen/Rothenburg, Würzburg, Wertheim, Frankfurt

This truly is a cruise through the heart of Germany. It includes Germany’s best-known Christmas market in Nuremberg, the Christmas city of Rothenburg ob der Tauber, and Bamberg, a UNESCO World Heritage Center. Würzbrg and Wertheim are noted from their famous castles and half-timbered buildings.

copyright © 2012 by joy anderson, germanyatchristmas€¦ · flights on the various budget...

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