T E X A S P A R K S & W I L D L I F E � 63

The local food movement,which is gaining momen-tum in urban areas, is

beginning to embrace whatlongtime hunters and anglershave known for generations:wild game and fish are healthy,sustainable and delicioussources of quality protein. When news reports surface

of unsanitary conditions orinhumane treatment of live-stock at factory farms andfeedlots, or when dubiousfood additives come to light

— such as "pink slime" usedin processed beef products —consumers rethink the originsof their food and what they'refeeding their families. Theywant to know where their foodcomes from and understandhow their food choices affectthe overall food system.Because of this, wild-harvest-ed venison, feral hog, water-fowl and fish have emerged asviable and flavorsome alter-natives to their commerciallypackaged counterparts.

Whether home cooks pur-chase farm-raised game meatand fish from the market(which still raises the questionof living conditions), or harvesttheir own from the wild, animportant issue remains: howto minimize potential gaminesswhile enhancing natural flavorand nutritional benefits duringcooking. The most importantpart of that equation happensin the field with the hunters andanglers and whether they’vehandled the meat in a safe and

Cooking on theWild Side

By Cecilia Nasti

Chefs lead the way as we learn how to do more

than wrap bacon around quail.

64 � S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 2

thoughtful manner immediate-ly after harvest. The remaining culinary cal-

culus is up to the home cookto decipher. Bacon and Italian dressing are

standard ingredients for prepar-ing game: They're familiar andsimple to use, and infuse thelean protein with flavor andneeded fat. Yet, as more self-proclaimed "foodies" add wild-harvested meats to the menu,their culinary creativity andcuriosity move them to experi-ment with new preparations. Fortunately, they can draw

inspiration from professionalchefs who hunt and fish.

■■■■

Before he was 8 years old,Louis Ortiz, a culinary instruc-tor at H-E-B/Central Market inAustin, was a "seasoned"coastal angler; it was an activityhe pursued regularly with hisolder cousin. Growing up inVictoria, in the post-oak regionof the state near the coast,Ortiz was in perfect proximity toabundant angling and huntingopportunities, pursuits he stillenjoys today. By the time heturned 8, Ortiz was trudgingalongside his stepfather inSouth Texas scrubland huntingwhite-tailed deer and feral hogs.He shot his first deer, he says,when he was only 9. His family hunted for meat,

not trophies, and always atewhat they killed. He became achef for no reason other thanhe liked to eat. "I'm not reallypassionate about food, but Iam passionate about eating,"he laughs.Although he had a sister four

years his senior, it was Ortiz andhis mother who took responsi-bility for cooking the game heand his stepfather broughthome. "My mom and I wouldmess around with different pre-sentations and recipes until wecame up with something weboth liked." In fact, he says, thebraised quail recipe in this arti-cle is one he and his motherdeveloped years ago. "I mod-

4 quail, cleaned and feathered1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1/2 tablespoon grapeseed oil

1/4 sweet yellow onion, diced

2 teaspoons minced shallots

1 garlic clove, minced

4 ounces sliced white mushrooms

2 teaspoons rendered bacon fat

3 ounces dry white wine

Pinch of garlic salt

1 1/2 teaspoons all-purpose flour

2 ounces chicken broth

4 ounces (liquid measure) heavy whipping cream

3 tablespoons crème fraiche

1 egg yolk, beaten

In a shallow braising pan, lightly sauté quail and yellow onion in the butter and grapeseed oil for 5 minutes on medium heat. If using an

electric range instead of gas, medium-low heat will work best. After approximately 5 minutes, remove quail from pan, and set aside. Add

minced shallots and garlic to the pan and sauté for 2 minutes.

Next, add in the mushrooms and bacon fat. Sauté until all moisture/water is cooked out of the mushrooms (around 4 minutes) and then deglaze the pan with 2

ounces dry white wine.

Put the quail back into the pan and season with sea salt and black pepper, adding a pinch of garlic salt. Keep heat at a gentle simmer.

Evenly distribute all-purpose flour over the birds.

Add remaining dry white wine and chicken broth, cover pan and simmer on low, gentle heat.

Combine heavy whipping cream, crème fraiche and beaten egg yolk in a small bowl and whisk together.

When the birds are cooked thoroughly, at least 15 minutes, gently whisk the cream, crème fraiche and egg yolk mixture into the pan. Cover the pan again and

gently simmer for 6-7 minutes until gravy/sauce thickens and is heated throughout.

Braised QuaiL

T E X A S P A R K S & W I L D L I F E � 65

From Louis Ortiz

ernized it somewhat. Now I usecrème fraiche; she used to usesour cream, which still works.The other thing, too, is I wantedto write the recipe in such a waythat everything was all inclusivein one pot. That was a trickything to do.” The quail is takenout of the pan and put back in,but everything else stays in. He says the reason his

recipe works is that he stress-es a low gentle simmerthroughout. "Cooking game islike hunting game — you'vegot to take your time. If you tryto cook everything fast, it'snever as good. You have toforce yourself to slow down,just like you do when you go

out in the woods." Ortiz is affable, energetic and

engaging, and when he teachescooking classes, participantscannot help but get excited. InDecember 2011, the TexasParks and Wildlife Departmententered into a partnership withCentral Market CookingSchools statewide to present aseries of wild game and fishcookery classes to help urban-ites understand the nuances ofpreparing these perfect pro-teins. A TPWD staff member isusually on hand to support theclass and to answer questionsattendees might have.The classes also bring a

new group of consumers into

the market. The 41-year-old Ortiz regularly

oversees most of these sold-outdemonstrations and hands-onopportunities at the CentralAustin store. His wife, Christina,regularly sits in.As an avid outdoorsman,

professional chef and full-timegraduate student at theUniversity of Texas at Austinstudying continuing adult edu-cation, he's able to sharemethods for preparing andserving game as well asimportant messages aboutconservation and manage-ment of the various specieson the menu. "It's gratifying tosee the light bulbs go off in a

CRISPY SEA SALT QUAIL with Roasted Red Pepper Aioli

Quail:

20 quail leg quarters, skin on

5 cups all-purpose flour

Sea salt

Cracked pepper

1 bunch cilantro (optional)

1 quart of canola oil

Aioli: Roast the peppers over an open flame until black on all sides. If you do not have an open flame, you may broil, turning the peppers until they

are black on all sides. Place blackened peppers in a sealable plastic bag, or in a bowl covered with plastic wrap, for 10 minutes. After 10 minutes, peel off burnt skin, and remove

stems and seeds. In a blender, combine egg yolks, peppers, 2 tablespoons of ice water and the garlic clove. Blend until smooth. Slowly add the oil in a fine stream until it reach-

es a thin mayonnaise consistency. Use more or less oil per your thickness preference. Once the aioli is thickened, season with salt and pepper.

Aioli:2 red peppers

2 egg yolks

1 cup of ice water

1 smashed garlic clove

Quail: Heavily season flour with salt and pepper. Wash quail to remove any leftover feathers. Pat dry with a paper towel and toss in flour to coat. Over medium

heat, heat about 3/8 of an inch of canola oil in the bottom of a cast iron skillet. Fry the leg quarters, turning only once to a golden brown. Do not overcrowd the

pan — you want to cook the leg quarters over high heat so they are still juicy on the inside; the hotter the oil, the crispier they turn out. Once cooked through,

about 5 minutes, place them on a paper towel to drain any remaining oil, and season again with sea salt and cracked pepper. Serve with the red pepper aioli and

garnish with a sprig of cilantro.

66 � S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 2

4 cups of oil

From Austin Brown

T E X A S P A R K S & W I L D L I F E � 67

1. Build a really hot fire in a grill or preheat a large cast-iron pan over high heat. 2. In a bowl, combine the venison, bacon, salt, pep-

per, egg yolks and Worcestershire sauce, mixing well. Divide the meat into four balls and form four large, 1½-inch-thick patties. 3. Brush the grill or pan with a

little oil and grill or sear the patties until very well browned on one side, about 5 minutes. Flip the burgers and add the cheese to the top. Cook about 3 minutes

more for medium-rare to medium. Serve on buns with mustard, mayonnaise, pickles and arugula.

1 ½ pounds ground venison

6 ounces bacon or pancetta, ground

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

4 egg yolks

Dash (or more) Worcestershire sauce

1 tablespoon olive oil

4 slices Emmentaler cheese

4 good-quality hamburger buns, toasted or grilled

Coarse ground mustard

Mayonnaise

Sliced dill pickles

A handful of arugula

Venison BurGers

From Jesse Griffiths

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class when people make theconnection, maybe for thefirst time, between what's ontheir plate, where it came fromand how they fit into the over-all picture of conservation. Itbecomes about more thanjust a good meal."Attendees leave Ortiz's class-

es with full bellies and a richerunderstanding of the naturalworld and their role as itsstewards. The size and enthu-siasm of the cooking classes,and the waiting lists to attendin most of the stores, under-score a hunger among thepublic for this knowledge.

■■■■Austin Brown is the 23-year-

old executive chef at Bay FlatsLodge in Seadrift on SanAntonio Bay. Raised inGonzales, he grew up huntingwith his father and other fami-ly members, and developedhis love of cooking by spend-ing time in the cafe operatedby his grandmother MaryMartha Ehrig, affectionatelycalled Motzie. "My grand-mother was huge influence onme. She's a self-taught cook,and would watch everythingshe could on Food Networkand PBS cooking shows andthen replicate what she saw,giving each recipe her ownspecial twist. She was, and is,fearless." He also mentions

she has several tattoos. "She'sthe coolest grandma ever!"While he tries to get into the

field whenever possible,Brown admits he spendsmost of his time these days inthe lodge's kitchen preparinggame and fish caught byguests. "Because I work at ahunting and fishing lodge, Icook a lot of wild duck andfish. Guests might go out forthe day and come back with abunch of trout, and from thatI may end up making them aTexas trout cake with craband shrimp, or a grilled troutsalad with citrus vinaigrette.Ducks might end up in gumboor on the grill — depending on

the species."Brown, an upbeat, enthusi-

astic and charmingly cockyyoung man, received classicaltraining from Le Cordon Bleu'sTexas Culinary Academy inAustin, and further honed hisskills and techniques at high-end eateries in the capital citybefore moving to the coast. Heuses what he's learned totransform game into sumptu-ous gourmet fare. Yet, for allthe haute goodness of hisdishes, Brown says he likes tokeep preparations simple. "Tome, when you have a goodpiece of game meat, it doesn'tneed marinating or other spe-cial preparations. Just add salt

and pepper, maybe a littleolive oil and herbs, and you'regood to go. If you want, youcan dress it up on the plate."Hunters and anglers who

wander into the Bay FlatsLodge kitchen when Brown isin action are pleasantly sur-prised to discover the meth-ods he uses are uncomplicat-ed, something home cookswith modest skills can dupli-cate on their own."After eating my food or

spending a little time in mykitchen, a lot of my customersgo home with the rest of theirharvest, ready to reproducewhat they ate here. Becausemost of what I do is fairly sim-

ple, they're usually successful –and that's awesome."

■■■■Chef Jesse Griffiths has

been hunting the last five ofhis 37 years. "We didn't havehunters in my immediate fam-ily, but we did have anglers,"the Denton native says.Griffiths, an only child, grewup fishing, but always had ayearning to go afield. Without a mentor, Griffiths

turned to the Internet. "I readeverything I could find on web-sites and forums. I asked ques-tions. I analyzed informationand techniques. I just educatedmyself," he says.As he tells it, the worst thing

1. Season the venison shanks with salt and pepper. Heat the olive oil in a large Dutch oven or heavy-bottomed pot over medium-high heat and brownthe shanks well, about 8 minutes. 2. Transfer the shanks to a plate, lower the heat to medium, add the onions and bay leaves, and cook, stirring often, until

deeply browned and caramelized, about 30 minutes. 3. Add the sherry or balsamic vinegar, shanks and enough water to cover by 4 inches, and bring to a sim-

mer. Lower the heat and cook the venison until it is very tender, about 5 hours, adding more water, if necessary, to keep the shanks covered. Alternatively, the

mixture can be cooked in a slow cooker on low heat for 4 to 6 hours, until tender. 4. Preheat the broiler. Lightly toast the bread. Cover each slice of toast with

a slice of cheese, and broil until the cheese is melted, browned and bubbling. 5. Season the soup with salt and lots of pepper, and then divide the shanks and

soup among four large bowls. Place a piece of toast, covered with melted cheese, in each bowl and serve immediately with a simple salad and red wine.

4 venison shanks (about 4 pounds), cut into 6- to 8-inch pieces

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

4 tablespoons olive oil

10 large onions, sliced

2 bay leaves

¼ cup sherry or balsamic vinegar

4 slices of good bread

4 thick slices of Gruyère or Emmentaler cheese

OniOn SOup with VeniSOn ShankS (Serves 4)

This is a classic French onion soup with the addition of rich, long-cooked venison shanks. By cooking the oft-discarded skinny shanks

of the venison in this way, you extract not only the rich stock from the bones, but utilize the scant but valuable meat from the legs. The long cooking process

melds the sweetness of the copious onions and the meatiness of the venison, making this a perfect cold-weather dish. Use the best Gruyère you can get your

hands on.

T E X A S P A R K S & W I L D L I F E � 69

From Jesse Griffiths

GRilled GAdwAll BReAsts with Roasted Raspberry Chipotle Sauce

4 skinless Gadwall breasts

1 cup sea salt

4 cups water

4 toothpicks

Brine: Combine in a bowl one cup of salt and 4 cups of water, stir to dissolve all salt, add the duck breasts and allow to brine, covered in the

refrigerator for six hours. Preparing the breasts for cooking: Dry off breasts with a paper towel and season with salt and pepper. Arrange two pieces of bacon parallel

to each other on a cutting board. Place a breast on the bacon perpendicular to the bacon. Wrap the duck breast tightly with the bacon. Take a toothpick and weave it in and

out of the flesh of both meats to secure the bacon. Repeat with remaining breasts. Cooking the breasts: In a sauté pan over low heat, render the bacon fat from the

wrapped breasts (this will reduce flare-up when you take the breasts to the grill). Over very high heat, grill the duck breasts until they are medium or feel firm to the touch.Allow the breasts to sit for 10 minutes before slicing. This allows the juices in the meat to reabsorb, so they do not run out leaving your duck breast less juicy. Slice each

breast width-wise and fan over plate. Garnish with roasted raspberry chipotle sauce.

8 slices of bacon

Sea salt

Cracked pepper

70 � S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 2

that could possibly have hap-pened to a first-time hunterhappened to him during doveseason five years ago: "I tookaim at the first dove that flewup, and I hit it with a single shotfrom my 20-gauge! Then Imissed the next 50. That firstshot had a million-to-one odds,but it hooked me." Griffiths is also a self-taught

cook. At 16 years old, he hadhis first restaurant job inDenton, and says he learnedfrom everyone on the line. Bythe time he was 21, he wascooking professionally, andnever looked back.The cooking that gave him the

biggest thrill early on waspreparing the fish he had

caught. "I wouldn't even acceptfish from friends who offered,because I only wanted to cookthe ones I caught," he laughs. "Iguess I really liked the feeling ofbeing so intimately connectedto the source of my food."Griffiths and his wife, Tamara

Mayfield, own and operate DaiDue Butcher Shop and SupperClub, which focus on traditional,local and sustainable approach-es to food in the Central Texasregion. He works with andserves only locally sourced pro-duce, meat and dairy.In addition to selling artisanal

meats, condiments and pre-serves at farmers' markets, he'sfed hundreds of people at hissupper clubs, and has in the

last three years offered deerand hog schools at theMadroño Ranch in Medina. "Ifelt there was a need for thiskind of intensive immersion,and I was right. The responsehas been huge!" With a tone ofurgency, he adds, "People knowhow to hunt and almost cate-gorically don't know what to dowith the meat afterward." Griffiths believes it is critical to

teach people who have spenttime and money hunting andharvesting these animals howto care for them in the field andin the kitchen. "We have a cul-ture of hunting game, but not ofeating game. These peopleknow they want to eat whatthey harvest, but not how to go

Raspberry chipotle sauce: In a medium saucepan, heat oil over medium-high heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring until soft and slightly caramelized; this should take about

4 minutes. Add the garlic to the pan (being careful not to burn the garlic) and sauté for 1 minute. Add the chipotles and cook, stirring continuously, for 1 minute. Add the rasp-

berries and cook until soft, about 2 to 3 minutes. Add the vinegar and stir to deglaze the pan, scraping the bottom with a wooden spoon to get up all those wonderful tidbits.

Add the sugar and salt, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer until thickened and reduced by half, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and strain

through a strainer to remove some of the seeds. Spoon over grilled duck breasts.

1 tablespoon oil

1/4 cup small diced onion

2 teaspoons minced garlic

1 tablespoon chipotle chiles in adobo, chopped

2 pints fresh raspberries, rinsed

1/2 cup raspberry vinegar

3/4 cup sugar

1/2 teaspoon salt

From Austin Brown

T E X A S P A R K S & W I L D L I F E � 71

about it."During deer and hog school,

Griffiths goes into the field withparticipants, but not as a guide.He has staff "more skilled thanme" for that. Because he's rela-tively new to the hunting life, hefeels he’s still learning, and sohis perspective is similar to thatof the students attending theschools. "I'm just the chef guywho points at a deer or hog andsays shoot that one because itlooks delicious."This September, Griffiths' first

book will be released. It’s calledAfield: A Chef’s Guide toPreparing and Cooking WildGame and Fish. He says hewrote it for "the 99 percent –the average citizen.”

"I write about white bass,crappie, doves, pigs and deer. ...I take a real pragmaticapproach to regional fishingand hunting with recipesdesigned to be approachable toimpressive." The kind of hunting Griffiths

proposes is available on publiclands where the game is abun-dant. "The cooking in Afield isstripped down, without a longingredients list. The emphasis ison simplicity. I offer techniquesfor best practices. My hope isthe outcome is so good it willconvince people that cookinggame isn't a hard, time-con-suming and impossible task."Griffiths says not to be intimi-

dated by “the perceived culture

of hunting.” He says it's not justfor "good old country boys." Headds that just as he did, anyonecan come to hunting (and fish-ing) late in life — even when liv-ing in the city. "Fish and gamebelong to everyone," he says.As far as cooking goes,

Griffiths says to forget mythsyou may have heard aboutgame meat being inediblebecause it is too gamey ortough. "With a little bit of careit is totally possible to have agreat meal with a lot of mean-ing to it. At this point in time,with agencies like Texas Parksand Wildlife, and books andthe Internet, it's never beeneasier to become a hunter orto cook dinner." �