cooking in the moment

Reus_9780307463890_1p_fm_r1.indd 1 8/2/10 8:31 AM

cookingin the

momentA Year of Seasonal Recipes

andrea reusing

(colophon)

Clarkson Potter/Publishers

New York

Reus_9780307463890_1p_fm_r1.indd 2-3 8/2/10 8:31 AM

cookingin the

momentA Year of Seasonal Recipes

andrea reusing

(colophon)

Clarkson Potter/Publishers

New York

Reus_9780307463890_1p_fm_r1.indd 2-3 8/2/10 8:31 AM

For Mac, Oona, and Arthur

Copyright © 2011 by andrea reusingPhotographs copyright © 2011 by John Kernick

all rights reserved.Published in the united states by Clarkson Potter/Publishers, an imprint of the Crown Publishing group, a division of random House, inc., new York.www.crownpublishing.comwww.clarksonpotter.com

CLarKsOn POTTer is a trademark and POTTer with colophon is a registered trademark of random House, inc.

Library of Congress Cataloging- in- Publication data

reusing, andrea. Cooking in the moment / andrea reusing. — 1st ed. p. cm. includes index. 1. Cookery (natural foods). 2. Menus. i. Title.

TX741.r49 2010 641.5'636—dc22 2010018532

isBn 978-0-307-46389-0

Printed in China

design by Marysarah Quinn

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

first edition

Reus_9780307463890_1p_fm_r1.indd 4-5 8/2/10 8:31 AM

For Mac, Oona, and Arthur

Copyright © 2011 by andrea reusingPhotographs copyright © 2011 by John Kernick

all rights reserved.Published in the united states by Clarkson Potter/Publishers, an imprint of the Crown Publishing group, a division of random House, inc., new York.www.crownpublishing.comwww.clarksonpotter.com

CLarKsOn POTTer is a trademark and POTTer with colophon is a registered trademark of random House, inc.

Library of Congress Cataloging- in- Publication data

reusing, andrea. Cooking in the moment / andrea reusing. — 1st ed. p. cm. includes index. 1. Cookery (natural foods). 2. Menus. i. Title.

TX741.r49 2010 641.5'636—dc22 2010018532

isBn 978-0-307-46389-0

Printed in China

design by Marysarah Quinn

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

first edition

Reus_9780307463890_1p_fm_r1.indd 4-5 8/2/10 8:31 AM

contentsintroduction 00

sources 000

acknowledgments 000

index 000

spring 00 summer 00 fall 00 winter 00

Reus_9780307463890_1p_fm_r1.indd 6-7 8/2/10 8:31 AM

contentsintroduction 00

sources 000

acknowledgments 000

index 000

spring 00 summer 00 fall 00 winter 00

Reus_9780307463890_1p_fm_r1.indd 6-7 8/2/10 8:31 AM

spring

spring

s pr i n g | e n d of m a r c h | 19

grilled broccoli with parsley, garlic, and anchoviesDelicate fresh broccoli and cauliflower from a garden or small farm don’t resemble the useful

California sorts that are a fixture in our produce drawer the rest of the year, and so we enjoy them

while we can. But because broccoli and cauliflower do travel and keep exceptionally well, I make

these recipes year- round, just allowing for slightly longer cooking times when dealing with more

mature vegetables.

serves 4

2 small bunches of tender broccoli2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for serving6 anchovy fillets, minced (if whole salt- packed, filleted and rinsed)2 garlic cloves, mashed to a pasteGrated zest of 1 lemon⅓ cup finely chopped fresh flat- leaf parsley leaves2 teaspoons chile flakes, or to taste

Prepare a hot fire in a charcoal grill.Cut the broccoli lengthwise to make long florets with all of the tender stem attached.

Blanch in well- salted boiling water for just 15 to 20 seconds, a little longer if the broccoli is very mature. Drain well, transfer to a medium bowl, and toss with 1 tablespoon of the oil. When the flame has died down and the coals are completely covered with ash, grill the broccoli to slightly char it all over. It should get a bit crunchy on the outside yet stay a little firm at the center.

Mix the anchovies, garlic, lemon zest, parsley, remaining 1 tablespoon oil, and chile flakes in a bowl. Add the grilled broccoli, toss well, and serve with olive oil at the table for drizzling.

s pr i n g | e n d of m a r c h | 19

grilled broccoli with parsley, garlic, and anchoviesDelicate fresh broccoli and cauliflower from a garden or small farm don’t resemble the useful

California sorts that are a fixture in our produce drawer the rest of the year, and so we enjoy them

while we can. But because broccoli and cauliflower do travel and keep exceptionally well, I make

these recipes year- round, just allowing for slightly longer cooking times when dealing with more

mature vegetables.

serves 4

2 small bunches of tender broccoli2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for serving6 anchovy fillets, minced (if whole salt- packed, filleted and rinsed)2 garlic cloves, mashed to a pasteGrated zest of 1 lemon⅓ cup finely chopped fresh flat- leaf parsley leaves2 teaspoons chile flakes, or to taste

Prepare a hot fire in a charcoal grill.Cut the broccoli lengthwise to make long florets with all of the tender stem attached.

Blanch in well- salted boiling water for just 15 to 20 seconds, a little longer if the broccoli is very mature. Drain well, transfer to a medium bowl, and toss with 1 tablespoon of the oil. When the flame has died down and the coals are completely covered with ash, grill the broccoli to slightly char it all over. It should get a bit crunchy on the outside yet stay a little firm at the center.

Mix the anchovies, garlic, lemon zest, parsley, remaining 1 tablespoon oil, and chile flakes in a bowl. Add the grilled broccoli, toss well, and serve with olive oil at the table for drizzling.

s pr i n g | e a r ly a p r i l | 2 9

campfire bacon and eggs in a bagI ate this magical meal at Girl Scout camp when I was seven years old, then thought about it for

the next thirty- odd years until I got to have it again when we went camping in the mountains near

Joe’s. It’s a full breakfast in a paper bag, easy to make if you already have a campfire burning (or

hot embers in a charcoal grill or fireplace), portable, and delicious. As the bacon in the bottom

of the paper bag renders and becomes crispy- chewy, the fat protects the paper from burning and

gently steams the egg. This cannot be prepared in advance: after the eggs are cracked, the bags

should be dangling over the hot embers within a minute.

serves 6

6 lunch- size paper bags

6 thick slices bacon, cut in half crosswise6 large eggsKosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Prepare a campfire or a fire in a fireplace or charcoal grill. Let the flames die down and the coals become completely covered with ash. (Don’t attempt this on a gas grill—they don’t have the firepower to render the bacon before the eggs soak the bags.)

Lay 2 bacon halves across the bottom of each bag so that it is completely covered. Reach into each bag and carefully crack an egg over the bacon. Season with salt and pepper. Securely fold down the top of each bag three times and poke a hole through the fold with a sharp skewer. Thread a long, green stick through the hole and hold each bag so that the bottom is as close to the hot embers as possible—but without touching them and nowhere near any open flame. Cook for about 10 minutes, until the egg white is cooked all the way through.

s pr i n g | e a r ly a p r i l | 2 9

campfire bacon and eggs in a bagI ate this magical meal at Girl Scout camp when I was seven years old, then thought about it for

the next thirty- odd years until I got to have it again when we went camping in the mountains near

Joe’s. It’s a full breakfast in a paper bag, easy to make if you already have a campfire burning (or

hot embers in a charcoal grill or fireplace), portable, and delicious. As the bacon in the bottom

of the paper bag renders and becomes crispy- chewy, the fat protects the paper from burning and

gently steams the egg. This cannot be prepared in advance: after the eggs are cracked, the bags

should be dangling over the hot embers within a minute.

serves 6

6 lunch- size paper bags

6 thick slices bacon, cut in half crosswise6 large eggsKosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Prepare a campfire or a fire in a fireplace or charcoal grill. Let the flames die down and the coals become completely covered with ash. (Don’t attempt this on a gas grill—they don’t have the firepower to render the bacon before the eggs soak the bags.)

Lay 2 bacon halves across the bottom of each bag so that it is completely covered. Reach into each bag and carefully crack an egg over the bacon. Season with salt and pepper. Securely fold down the top of each bag three times and poke a hole through the fold with a sharp skewer. Thread a long, green stick through the hole and hold each bag so that the bottom is as close to the hot embers as possible—but without touching them and nowhere near any open flame. Cook for about 10 minutes, until the egg white is cooked all the way through.

s pr i n g | j u n e | 5 7

grilled spanish mackerel with green sauceThe fact that our great- grandchildren may never eat a real seafood dinner gives those of us who

still eat fish a responsibility not to put blue cheese on it. I like to serve this with the pickled beets

and potato salad that follow. This treatment would work for almost any flavorful, rich fish.

serves 4

4 (8-ounce) Spanish mackerel fillets, skin onKosher salt and freshly ground black pepperFinely ground dried red chiles, such as de árbolExtra virgin olive oilGreen Sauce (recipe follows)

Prepare a fire in a charcoal grill.Season both sides of each fillet generously with salt, pepper, and chile. Drizzle both sides

with a little olive oil.When the grill is very hot but the flame has died down and the coals are completely

covered with ash, put the mackerel, skin side down, on the grill. Cook for at least 2 minutes before moving it at all. In the meantime, watch for flare- ups, extinguishing them with a little water from a squirt bottle (beer works, too). It will take 4 to 6 minutes to cook the skin side. When the skin is crispy and deep golden brown, gently flip the fillets with a spatula. Grill for 2 to 3 minutes, until just cooked through. Serve with green sauce.

s pr i n g | j u n e | 5 7

grilled spanish mackerel with green sauceThe fact that our great- grandchildren may never eat a real seafood dinner gives those of us who

still eat fish a responsibility not to put blue cheese on it. I like to serve this with the pickled beets

and potato salad that follow. This treatment would work for almost any flavorful, rich fish.

serves 4

4 (8-ounce) Spanish mackerel fillets, skin onKosher salt and freshly ground black pepperFinely ground dried red chiles, such as de árbolExtra virgin olive oilGreen Sauce (recipe follows)

Prepare a fire in a charcoal grill.Season both sides of each fillet generously with salt, pepper, and chile. Drizzle both sides

with a little olive oil.When the grill is very hot but the flame has died down and the coals are completely

covered with ash, put the mackerel, skin side down, on the grill. Cook for at least 2 minutes before moving it at all. In the meantime, watch for flare- ups, extinguishing them with a little water from a squirt bottle (beer works, too). It will take 4 to 6 minutes to cook the skin side. When the skin is crispy and deep golden brown, gently flip the fillets with a spatula. Grill for 2 to 3 minutes, until just cooked through. Serve with green sauce.

summer

summer

1 0 8 | c o o k i n g i n t h e m o m e n t

fried okra with indian spices and hot tomato relishserves 4 as a small appetizer

1 teaspoon coriander seeds¼ teaspoon fennel seeds1 clove1 teaspoon cumin seedsVegetable oil, for frying1 large egg¼ cup buttermilk1 medium serrano chile, finely chopped2 tablespoons chickpea flour2 tablespoons all- purpose flour½ teaspoon kosher salt½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper2 pints okra (just under a pound), stems removedSea salt, for servingHot Tomato Relish (recipe follows)

In a small pan over medium heat, lightly toast the coriander, fennel, and clove until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Allow to cool completely; then grind and set aside. Toast the cumin seeds in the same fashion and add them to the ground spices.

Fill a deep, heavy stockpot with about 3 inches of oil. Heat the oil over medium- high heat until a deep- fat thermometer reads 350°F.

Beat the egg in a small bowl and whisk in the buttermilk and serrano chile. In a medium bowl, combine the chickpea flour, all- purpose flour, salt, pepper, and spice mixture.

Cut the okra on a sharp diagonal into long ¼- inch- thick slices. Put the okra slices into the bowl with the flour mixture and combine, leaving a light dusting on each piece. Pour the egg mixture on top and mix with your hands, making sure to coat all surfaces. In batches, use a large slotted spoon to carefully lay loosely formed handfuls of 6 to 8 slices into the hot oil and cook for about 2 minutes, turning as necessary until the okra is golden brown and uniformly crisp. Drain on a clean brown paper bag, season with sea salt, and serve with the tomato relish.

1 0 8 | c o o k i n g i n t h e m o m e n t

fried okra with indian spices and hot tomato relishserves 4 as a small appetizer

1 teaspoon coriander seeds¼ teaspoon fennel seeds1 clove1 teaspoon cumin seedsVegetable oil, for frying1 large egg¼ cup buttermilk1 medium serrano chile, finely chopped2 tablespoons chickpea flour2 tablespoons all- purpose flour½ teaspoon kosher salt½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper2 pints okra (just under a pound), stems removedSea salt, for servingHot Tomato Relish (recipe follows)

In a small pan over medium heat, lightly toast the coriander, fennel, and clove until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Allow to cool completely; then grind and set aside. Toast the cumin seeds in the same fashion and add them to the ground spices.

Fill a deep, heavy stockpot with about 3 inches of oil. Heat the oil over medium- high heat until a deep- fat thermometer reads 350°F.

Beat the egg in a small bowl and whisk in the buttermilk and serrano chile. In a medium bowl, combine the chickpea flour, all- purpose flour, salt, pepper, and spice mixture.

Cut the okra on a sharp diagonal into long ¼- inch- thick slices. Put the okra slices into the bowl with the flour mixture and combine, leaving a light dusting on each piece. Pour the egg mixture on top and mix with your hands, making sure to coat all surfaces. In batches, use a large slotted spoon to carefully lay loosely formed handfuls of 6 to 8 slices into the hot oil and cook for about 2 minutes, turning as necessary until the okra is golden brown and uniformly crisp. Drain on a clean brown paper bag, season with sea salt, and serve with the tomato relish.

tomato sandwichAlex and Betsy Hitt were the first farmers to sell heirloom tomatoes at the Carrboro farmers’

market almost thirty years ago, and each summer in mid- June they post a sign above their stand

that reads: “Get your bread and mayonnaise ready—the tomato flood is coming!” A tomato

sandwich–thick slices of dead- ripe tomatoes well seasoned with salt and pepper between slices of

soft white sandwich bread spread with rich mayonnaise—is pure joy. Any attempt to “improve”

it—toasting the bread, adding lettuce or, god forbid, basil—will only distract from perfection.

tomato sandwichAlex and Betsy Hitt were the first farmers to sell heirloom tomatoes at the Carrboro farmers’

market almost thirty years ago, and each summer in mid- June they post a sign above their stand

that reads: “Get your bread and mayonnaise ready—the tomato flood is coming!” A tomato

sandwich–thick slices of dead- ripe tomatoes well seasoned with salt and pepper between slices of

soft white sandwich bread spread with rich mayonnaise—is pure joy. Any attempt to “improve”

it—toasting the bread, adding lettuce or, god forbid, basil—will only distract from perfection.

s u m mer | s e p t e m b e r | 1 23

garlic and black pepper soft- shell crabsserves 4

Vegetable oil, for frying3 cups rice flour3 teaspoons kosher salt¼ cup freshly ground black pepper¼ cup minced garlic½ cup fish sauce8 large soft- shell crabs, preferably jumbo or “whale” size, dressed and cut in half crosswise

Fill a deep, heavy pot with a lid about one- third full with oil, and heat it until a deep- fat thermometer reads 375°F.

In the meantime, combine the rice flour, salt, pepper, and garlic in a medium bowl. Put 1 tablespoon of the fish sauce in a small bowl. Dip each piece of crab very briefly into the fish sauce, gently shaking off excess, and then into the rice flour mix. Roll the crab over and shake off any extra flour. Set aside. Repeat this process, until all the crab halves are dredged.

When the oil reaches 375°F, gently lay the crabs, top side down, in the oil. Don’t crowd the pot—if necessary, fry them in batches—and use the lid as needed when the crabs are first added to the oil to avoid splattering. After 1 to 2 minutes, when the crabs are golden brown, turn them over and cook for another 2 minutes. Drain on clean brown paper bags and eat hot.

s u m mer | s e p t e m b e r | 1 2 3

garlic and black pepper soft- shell crabsserves 4

Vegetable oil, for frying3 cups rice flour3 teaspoons kosher salt¼ cup freshly ground black pepper¼ cup minced garlic½ cup fish sauce8 large soft- shell crabs, preferably jumbo or “whale” size, dressed and cut in half crosswise

Fill a deep, heavy pot with a lid about one- third full with oil, and heat it until a deep- fat thermometer reads 375°F.

In the meantime, combine the rice flour, salt, pepper, and garlic in a medium bowl. Put 1 tablespoon of the fish sauce in a small bowl. Dip each piece of crab very briefly into the fish sauce, gently shaking off excess, and then into the rice flour mix. Roll the crab over and shake off any extra flour. Set aside. Repeat this process, until all the crab halves are dredged.

When the oil reaches 375°F, gently lay the crabs, top side down, in the oil. Don’t crowd the pot—if necessary, fry them in batches—and use the lid as needed when the crabs are first added to the oil to avoid splattering. After 1 to 2 minutes, when the crabs are golden brown, turn them over and cook for another 2 minutes. Drain on clean brown paper bags and eat hot.