cookbook of the balkans
DESCRIPTION
A Culinary Tour through Prokletoje/Bjeshkët ë Nëmuna – Kosovo, Montenegro & AlbaniaTRANSCRIPT
Cookbook of the Balkans: A Culinary Tour through Prokletije/Bjeshkët e Nemuna
Kosovo, Montenegro & Albania
By Raleigh Keagan
2
Forward
The nations and people of the Balkans have been in the midst of
a sustained and often volatile tumultuously changing political and
geographical environment for decades. One negative side effect of such
a history is a threat to identity. However, my recent trip through
Kosovo, Montenegro and Albania proved just the opposite. Not only
has the region retained a strong collective identity and pride, each
individual country has a beautiful and rich sense of self that
additionally adds to the whole.
There are many unique aspects of the Balkans that aid in the
identity of the people and culture, but something in particular that
stood out to me was their amazing and delicious cuisine. While many
dishes have different names or spelling (if only off by a letter!), there is
an undeniable commonality of cuisine stretching across borders. The
subtle differences among the similarities highlight the uniqueness that
each country has to offer, as well as the collective baseline identity
largely shared in the region.
The pride and effort dedicated to the cuisine in the Balkans is
apparent not only in the delectable dishes, but also in the presentation
and generosity of the people. Food is not simply sustenance, it is an
experience. It is a gift to be shared with visitors and an event to be
enjoyed with friends and family. The focus paid in creating each item
and the genuine giving nature of the people are historical cultural
aspects that have not wavered in the face of an ever-changing
environment, which has solidified these traits as central to Balkan
identity.
My privileged experiences in Kosovo, Montenegro and Albania
exposed me to an entirely new way of thinking about food. I wanted not
only to remember the delicious recipes for my own enjoyment and
sharing upon returning home, I wanted to honor the beautiful people I
met and the wondrous culture and cuisine by creating something to
memorialize the experience. In Cookbook o f the Balkans: A Culinary
Tour through Prokletije/Bjeshkët e Nemuna — Kosovo, Montenegro &
Albania, I have gathered several recipes that I had the great fortune to enjoy
during my travels, photos of the generous people who served and
shared their scrumptious secrets, and a few personal experiences along
the way. What you are reading is a small snippet of the fantastic cuisine
and culture the Balkans have to offer, and I hope to continue to add
more as my travels continue. Please enjoy!
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A Bit on the History
As the majority of national borders drawn in the Balkans have
been arbitrarily marked largely for political purposes, rather than the
recognition of natural and cultural defining areas, so too we find the
extent of cuisine influence to ignore those arbitrary lines marked on a
map. Much of the Balkan cuisine was influenced and shows strong ties
to Turkish foods, as a result of the Ottoman Empire’s occupation. The
prominent (and delicious!) presence of yogurt in many dishes is also
reminiscent of ancient Persian cuisine.
The persistence of similarities in cuisine throughout the
Balkan region, particularly despite the existence of a continuously
changing political structure and presence, as well as the apparent
variance in levels of development and often minimized contact with
people across borders within the region, exemplifies how significant
the cuisine is to the Balkan identity. Also, a history of eating at home
(rather than dining out at restaurants) has helped maintain the
integrity of Balkan cuisine. As cooking in this part of the world has
historically been (and to a large degree still is) a traditional role
performed by women, and many communist countries saw the
majority of meals being eaten at home, women cooked what they
learned from their mother and their mother’s mother, and so on. These
practices and cultural norms reinforced a strong historic identity of
Balkan cuisine, rather than being readily influenced by the next regime
that waltzed in.
Balkan cuisine is largely dependent and reflective of the
season and is often gathered from local ingredients. Food has an
important social role in the region. It is often made to stimulate the
appetite rather than satisfy, to help pass along the afternoon while
enjoying moderate/copious amounts of wine or Raki (recipe below!).
The cuisine is a central part of the identity of this region, and I am
proud to share even just a sliver of their historically unique and
delicious dishes.
4
Acknowledgements
While I cannot pay the deserved tribute to everyone who
helped me in creating this recipe guide, I wish to send my sincerest
thanks to all of the people in Kosovo, Montenegro and Albania who so
generously and enthusiastically shared their houses, their food and
their intricate cooking knowledge. Your perspective on food has forever
changed my view on it, and for that alone, I cannot thank you enough.
Particular thanks to Mrs. Selma Faro, Mrs. Lula Gjecaj, Geoffrey
Dabelko, Todd Walters and International Peace Parks Expeditions. And
of course to Mrs. Shkodra from Thethi, Albania, pictured below. Our
Mom away from home.
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Phyllo 6
Sarma 8
Tomato Cucumber Salad 10
Hurmshece 11
Omelet “Lula” 12
Balkan Goulash Soup 14
Gabaneca 16
Jufke 18
Burek 22
Mantije 24
Stuffed Green Peppers 26
Baklava 28
Raki 30
Table of Contents
6
Phyllo/ Fila/Filo/Yufka
This thin, flaky pastry dough goes by a variety of different
names, but is one of the most prevalent items throughout the
region and is a staple in many dishes in Balkan cuisine. For ease
in making a number of the other recipes included, phyllo may
be purchased in large, thin pasta-like sheets, generally found in
the international section in a grocery store. But I will note that I
have had the privilege of seeing the home-made process and
experiencing the deliciousness, and I highly recommend it if
one has the time.
Ingredients
Water – 1 liter
Flour – 7 oz. (200 g)
Salt
Cream
Directions
Mix water, flour and salt, slowly adding water to flour
In a large round baking dish, pour, or brush on one thin
layer of the mixture
Add a thin covering of cream on top
Bake in oven at 400° F (200° C) for 1 hour
Remove, add another layer of the mixture, then another
layer of the cream, place back in oven for 1 hour
Repeat until mixture is finished
7
8
Sarma
This dish is often traditionally served for weddings and
religious holidays, though I was privileged to enjoy the
deliciousness on an ordinary day. Like many foods described
here, Sarma originates from the Turkish Ottoman Empire. It is
often served with yogurt, and is a favorite at Christmas meals.
The wonderful Mrs. Selma Faro, who runs a guesthouse I
stayed at in Montenegro, served this delightful dish and then
so graciously humored my interest by describing the recipe.
Sarma is merely one of the outstanding authentic Balkan
dishes she so generously served. Relatively easy to create, but
simply delicious to eat!
Ingredients
Large head of cabbage – 1
Lean ground beef – 1 lb. (can also add ½ lb. ground pork
and/or ½ lb. ground ham if desired)
Uncooked long-grain rice, white – 1 cup
Onion, finely chopped – 1
Bell pepper, finely chopped – 1
Large carrot, finely chopped – 1 to 2
Egg – 1
Garlic, finely chopped – 2 to 3 cloves
Salt – 1 tsp., to taste
Coarse ground black pepper – 1 tsp., to taste
Additional spices, dried – to taste
9
Directions
Boil cabbage and separate into individual leaves
In large bowl, combine all other ingredients, mix well
Form meat mixture into oblong balls/rolls, about the size of a
golf ball
Place 1 meat roll into 1 cabbage leaf and fold like an eggroll
or burrito, so mixture won’t fall out
Repeat until all of meat mixture and/or cabbage leaves are
used
Place Sarma in large pot, pour in just enough water to cover
and bring to boil
Reduce heat to simmer, cook for 1.5 – 2 hours, adding more
water as needed
10
Tomato Cucumber Salad
While this dish is relatively self-explanatory, it is ever-present
in the Balkans and deserves recognition. Wonderfully fresh
and light, especially when offered alongside the delicious, yet
heavy breads, meats and cheeses that dominate much of this
cuisine, the tomato cucumber salad is a must at any Balkan
inspired meal!
Ingredients
Tomato
Cucumber
Olive oil
Optional:
Feta
Spinach
Capers
Olives
Directions
Cut up tomato and cucumber, and any other ingredients
you wish to include
Drizzle with olive oil
11
Hurmshece/Hurmasice
While I have not yet had the chance to enjoy this cookie-cake like
dish myself, I am told it is wonderful for birthdays and other
festive occasions. This recipe is another one of Mrs. Selma Faro’s,
and if it came from her kitchen I can guarantee it will be good!
Ingredients
Eggs – 2
Sugar – 2 ½ cups
Vegetable oil – 1 cup
Baking powder – 1 tsp.
Flour – 2+ cups
Water – 2 cups
Optional
Sweetened shredded coconut chopped – 3.5 oz. (100 g)
Sour milk – 2 cups
Directions
Mix eggs with 2 cups of sugar, until sugar melts
Mix in oil, coconut (if including), vanilla and baking powder
Add flour, ½ cup at a time, mixing slowly; enough for mixture
to be stuck together, softer than pizza dough
Grease bottom of baking pan
Roll pieces of dough into little logs, a few inches long
Place rolls on baking pan, all next to each other
Bake at 390° F (200° C) for 15-25 minutes; until golden
Syrup
Boil water and remaining sugar while cake is baking
Keep on medium heat until all sugar dissolves
Remove cake from oven and immediately pour syrup over
entire cake
12
Omelet “Lula”
A specialty of Mrs. Lula Gjecaj (Lula means flower in
Albanian, a lovely name for an equally lovely person!). Mrs.
Lula runs one of the generous guesthouses I stayed at in
pristine Thethi, Albania. She and her husband have an
organic farm next to the guesthouse, from which they are able
to produce nearly, if not all of the delicious food they serve
and enjoy. Particular portions of the ingredients of this dish
can be adjusted depending on the desired meal size.
Ingredients
Potatoes
Onions
Tomatoes
Eggs
Peppers
Salt
Directions
Cut potatoes in circular form
Sauté vegetables in a pan over medium heat, starting with
the onion, then adding in the peppers and potatoes
Add tomatoes and some water, let boil 5-7 min
Pour all ingredients into a baking pan, cover vegetables
with whisked eggs
Bake in oven until it takes on a good color (10-15 min)
13
14
Balkan Goulash Soup
During my visit, I had many different varieties of delicious soups
encompassing all sorts of yummy ingredients. The one described
here brings many of those flavors together, and one can play
around with the inclusion or exclusion of certain ingredients to
morph the dish into a sister soup.
Ingredients
Vegetable oil – 2 tbsp.
Onions, diced – 2
Celery, chopped – 1 cup
Garlic, minced – 2 large cloves
Paprika – 3 tbsp.
Thyme leaves, dried – 1 tsp.
Tomatoes, chopped finely or run through blender – 4 to 5, or
28 oz. can
Sauerkraut, drained – 8 oz.
Smoked sausage, cut into ¼ inch slides – 1 lb.
Parsley, chopped
Lean beef, cubed – 1 ½ lb.
Brown sugar -- 2 tbsp.
Caraway seeds – 1 ½ tsp.
Beef broth – 6 cups
Potatoes, peeled and diced – 3 cups
15
Directions
Heat oil in large soup pot over medium heat
Add cubes of beef, increase heat to medium high, quickly
browning on all sides
Add onions, celery and garlic; sauté until vegetables are
soft
Add paprika, brown sugar, thyme and caraway; toss to
thoroughly coat vegetables and meat, 2 to 3 minutes
Add tomatoes, beef broth and sauerkraut
Reduce heat to a simmer, partially cover pot and cook 2
hours
Add potatoes, cook additional 30 minutes, partially
covered
Add sliced sausage, cook 15 minutes, uncovered
Note: Flavor is enhanced if dish is stored in refrigerator 1
day prior to eating
16
Gabaneca
Deliciously creamy. Also originates from the Turkish Ottoman
Empire.
Ingredients
Phyllo dough, thawed – 1 lb.
Sour cream – 1 cup
Eggs – 6
Feta, broken into small pieces – 2 lbs.
Butter, melted – ½ lb.
Flour – ½ cup
Salt – tsp., to taste
Optional:
Vegetables
Spices
Directions
Beat eggs until frothy
Add sifted flour and salt; beat well
Add sour cream; mix well
Add cheese and mix/fold into mixture thoroughly
Grease 13x9x2 inch pan
Layer 2 sheets of phyllo on bottom of pan
Pour 2 tablespoons of melted better over dough, brush
to edges to cover completely
Spread 6 large spoonfuls of cheese mixture over
bottom layer
Repeat dough, butter and cheese mixture layering
until 2 sheets phyllo remain
Add last two sheets on top and pour remaining butter
over dough
Bake uncovered at 325° F (160° C) for 45 minutes
(Depending on oven and ingredients, can range
from 30-60 minutes)
17
18
Jufke (Pita Sa Sirom)
This delicious dish is somewhere between American Lasagna and
Turkish Borek (meat pie). It takes a bit of patience but if you can put in
the time you will end up with something everyone will marvel at. I
enjoyed this warm dish on a chilly evening in Hijla, Montenegro, near
the border with Kosovo. Staying in a high mountain lodge, this warm,
hearty dish was a perfect ending to a long, chilly, gorgeous day.
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Ingredients
Olive oil – 6 tbsp.
Green peppers, seeded and coarsely chopped – 1 lb.
Pul biber/Aleppo pepper – 1 tbsp.
Onion, large, coarsely chopped – 1
Salt and pepper — to taste
Ground beef – 2 lb.
Canola oil – ¾ cup +
Eggs, large – 5
Milk – 1 cup
Phyllo (yufka) dough – 16 oz. package
Nigella sativa (black cumin seeds) – 2 tbsp.
Optional:
Tomato sauce — 16. oz. jar
20
Directions
Heat olive oil over medium heat
Add green peppers, pub biber, onion, salt and pepper
Cook about 10 minutes, until softened, stirring frequently
Add beef, cook about 10 minutes, until liquid has evaporated
Season with salt and pepper
Cook about 15 more minutes, until vegetables are soft, stirring
occasionally
Remove meat and vegetables to plate, cool slightly
In bowl, whisk eggs, milk and ½ cup canola oil
Grease 9x13 inch baking dish
Lay 2 sheets of phyllo in bottom of dish, brushing each sheet with
egg mixture
Pour ⅓ of beef/vegetable mixture over sheets
If using, top with tomato sauce
Repeat 2 more layers, top with phyllo and brushed egg mixture
Tuck overhanging top sheet into pan
Sprinkle nigella sativa seeds on top
Bake at 400° F (200° C) about 45 minutes, until top is sizzling and
golden
Let cool 20 minutes
Top with yogurt or chili, if desired
21
22
Burek/Byrek/Barek
Byrek, meaning pie, is another item that comes with many
names, and also many varieties. This yummy dish is
frequently served for a hearty breakfast, and is also
common as a side dish for dinner or lunch. They are often
swirled in a coil-like shape, handy for on-the-go. The
spinach variety resembles spanakopita. I have included
recipes for meat and vegetarian varieties below. While the
ingredients vary slightly the directions are the same. The
spinach recipe was generously provided by Mrs. Lula
Gjecaj , and you can adjust the amounts for the ingredients
depending on how much you want to make.
Ingredients, Meat Burek
Phyllo Dough
Veal, minced – 17.5 oz. (500 g)
Beef, minced – 9 oz. (250 g)
Onions – 4
Butter, melted – 1 oz. (25 g)
Egg yolks – 2
Salt and pepper – to taste
Ingredients, Spinach Byrek
Phyllo Dough
Spinach, cut into small pieces
Cream
Feta, broken into small pieces
Butter, melted – 1 oz. (25 g)
Egg yolks – 2
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Directions
Roll dough out on table until very thin, leave to rest and dry
Cut dough into 4 equal pieces
Cover dough with thin layer of melted butter
In a bowl, mix together either the meat and onions OR the
spinach, cream and pieces of cheese
Pour meat or spinach filling at the edge of one side of dough,
roll to create sausage-like pastry
Use round baking pan to create spiral, starting from the
middle of the dish
Another option: instead of rolling the pastry, you can
lay 3 sheets of phyllo in the bottom of the pan,
buttering between each, then layer the spinach or
meat mixture, then topping it with 3 more sheets
of phyllo and butter
Bake at 400° F (200° C) for 20-25 minutes
Before dish is completely baked, pour melted butter mixed in
warm water over top of pastry
24
Mantije (Pita Sa Mesom)
This was by far my favorite dish I had during my visit.
Outwardly simple, yet inwardly wondrously delicious, I happily
enjoyed Mantije throughout my trip in all three countries. They
were frequently nestled in amongst the myriad of delicacies and
generous spreads I was treated to, but I could always spot them –
and generally eat more than my fill. Bit-sized and packed with
flavor, these are a great appetizer, and also work well as a side
dish for any meal. Mantije is a traditional dish particularly in
Montenegro and Kosovo, but can be readily found throughout
the region. Its prominence was likely influenced by the Ottoman
Empire’s presence in the Balkans. The dish can be made for any
occasion or for special occasions. It is a distant relative to “Manti”
eaten in Turkey, though there they are boiled, not baked. Mantije
can be made with cheese or meat, and if you opt for the former it
is recommended to use light cheese from a cow.
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Ingredients
Phyllo Dough – 2.2 lbs./35 oz. (1000 g)
Minced meat, roasted beef – 14 oz. (400 g)
Onion, chopped – 1 ½
Olive oil – 2 tbsp.
Yogurt – 3 tbsp.
Egg – 1
Salt and pepper – to taste
Directions
Sauté meat and onions on high until cooked thoroughly and
golden brown; season with salt and pepper
Roll out dough and cut into diamond pieces (roughly 2”x2”)
Place spoonful of meat in center of diamond and roll up by
pulling each corner over the top of the meat; turn over
and place onto greased baking tray
Mix yogurt, egg and oil, pour over rolls and leave for 1 hour
Bake in oven at 400° F (200° C) for 2 hours
Can add more yogurt and onion on top when cooked
Traditionally served with Ayran, a delicious salted yogurt
drink
26
Stuffed Green Peppers
Another delicious staple of the Balkans. I had many different
varieties while visiting, and this is merely one of the splendid
pepper dishes I enjoyed. Also look for sautéed green peppers
with feta!
Ingredients
Green Peppers – 8
Lean ground beef, minced – 1 lb.
Rice – ¼ cup
Garlic, chopped – 1 clove
Onion, chopped – 1
Tomato juice – 2 cups
Vinegar or wine – 4 tbsp.
Sugar – 3 tbsp.
Salt and pepper – to taste
Optional:
Chicken stock – 1 tbsp. powdered OR ¼ cup liquid
27
Directions
Cut top off peppers (⅟4 – ⅛ inch). Keep tops!
Remove seeds
Combine meat, rice, garlic, onion and salt and pepper;
mix well
Pack mixture into each pepper, filling to ⅔ and replace
tops
Place peppers together snugly, upright in large
saucepan
Mix tomato juice, vinegar or wine (wine is
recommended!), sugar, and chicken stock if using
Pour liquid mixture over stuffed peppers
Add just enough water to cover peppers in pan, if the
tops are uncovered
Bring to boil, reduce heat and simmer for roughly 1
hour, until peppers are tender and roughly ⅔ of
liquid is absorbed
28
Baklava
This dish you have likely heard of before, but having the
truly authentic version is an entirely different experience,
which, thanks to the wonderful Mrs. Selma Faro and her
sharing this recipe, you can have the opportunity to enjoy.
Traditionally made for holidays or religious events,
Baklava is a sweet (very sweet!) dish that is, once again,
based off of the popular phyllo dough, but will give you a
sugar rush like nothing else.
Ingredients
Phyllo dough – 1 lb.
Walnuts, smashed – 4 to 5 cups
Raisins – 2 cups
Sugar – ½ cup
Cloves, ground – ½ tsp.
Cinnamon – 1 tsp.
Sweet butter – 1 lb.
Optional:
Orange zest
Honey
Syrup
Water – 2 ½ cups
Sugar – 3 cups
Lemon juice – 3 tsp.
Vanilla – 1 tsp.
.
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Directions
Mix nuts, raisins, cinnamon, cloves and sugar
Melt butter over medium high heat
Grease 14x10 ½ inch pan
Lay 5 sheets of phyllo in pan, brushing the top of each sheet
with melted butter
Spread nut mixture over dough
Lay 6 more sheets on top, buttering each layer
Cut into diamond shapes
Bake at 300° F (150° C) for about 1 ½ hours, until lightly
brown
Combine ingredients for syrup, boil for about 10 minutes and
let cool
Pour cooled syrup over hot pastry
30
Raki
Raki is the drink of the Balkans. Known as Souma in Greece and
Grappa in Italy, this highly concentrated spirit is always present on a
Balkan dinner table (or sometimes breakfast!). Somewhat akin to home-
made moonshine popular in certain areas of North America, this drink
is often made by those serving it, and who generously keep your glass
full. It is made from a variety of different kinds of fruits, depending on
the location and time of year. In Montenegro, Raki is most commonly
made with purple grapes, but
other fruits are also used, such as:
plums; apples; pears; peaches; or
nectarines (the latter is described
as best and preferred option).
While some balk at the claim that
Raki has healing powers, I myself
have witnessed them first hand.
During my visit to the Balkans I
sprained my ankle on a hike and
limped all the way back to town.
After returning I rubbed some
Raki around my ankle and the
next morning I was good as new.
And much cheaper than a trip to
the emergency room some 4
hours away. As with most spirits,
Raki betters with age, often
changing color as it takes on
more years. The specific color
depends on the fruit used, for
instance apple and peach will
give off a golden color. There are
also specialized batches of Raki that are said to aid for certain ailments.
In the accompanying pictures, for instance, the bottle is noted for
“Nervosa”, for bad moods, so the maker tells me. And I can attest it did
indeed put us all in good spirits!
31
Directions
Collect fruit in barrel – should be half full of fruit (the type
of fruit will depend on your location and time of year
Add water and sugar to barrel, let ferment (time)
Fire, distillation, boiling, steam, then distillation
32
Gëzuar! Cheers!