CONSUMERS’CHOICES TOWARDSECO-FASHION

ACasestudyofG-Star’sRawfortheOceanCampaign

jitskenap(432574)jitske.nap@gmail.com

MasterThesis(CulturalEconomics&Entrepreneurship)ErasmusUniversityRotterdam

Supervisor:dr.MariangelaLavanga.

June2017.

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Inhoudsopgave

Abstract 5

Introduction 6

I.Sustainabilityinthefashionindustry 9

1.1Creativeindustries 9

1.2Sustainabilityandgatekeepers 9

1.3Increasingconsumption 10

1.4ConsumersAttitudetowardsSustainableFashion 11

1.5Highinvolvementgoods 13

II.Marketingfashionandsustainability 14

2.1Marketing 14

2.2Greenmarketing 15

2.3Greenmarketingimpact 15

2.4Greenmarketingtechniques 16

III.Consumers’choices 17

3.1Decision-making 17

3.2Influencingfactors 18

3.2.1Personalattributes 19

3.2.2Fashioninvolvement 19

3.2.3Environmentalinvolvement 20

3.2.4Eco-fashioninvolvement 20

3.2.5Brandinvolvement 21

3.2.6Campaigninvolvementandeffects 21

IV.Casestudy:G-StarandRawfortheOcean 23

4.1G-Star 23

4.2TheG-Starfashionconsumer 25

4.3RawfortheOcean 25

4.4TheRawfortheOceanmarketingcampaign 26

V.Methodology 28

5.1.Datacollectionandsample 28

5.2Surveyvariables 29

5.2.1Involvementvariables 35

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5.3Hypothesisdevelopment 37

5.3.1Environmental,eco-fashion,andfashioninvolvement 37

5.3.2Brandinvolvement 38

5.4Researchmodels 39

5.4.1Model1:Attitudeandbehavior 40

5.4.2Model2:Eco-fashionattitude/involvementandBrandattitude 43

5.4.3Model3:CampaignAttitude 45

5.5ValidityandReliability 47

VI.Results 48

6.1Descriptivestatistics 48

6.1.1Demographics 49

6.1.2Fashioninvolvement 51

6.1.3Environmentalinvolvement 53

6.1.4Eco-fashioninvolvement 55

6.1.5Brandinvolvement 58

6.1.6Campaigninvolvement 59

6.1.7Campaigneffect 60

6.2Model1:AttitudeandBehavior 62

6.2.1Fashionattitudeandfashionbehavior 62

6.2.2environmentalattitudeandenvironmentalbehavior 63

6.2.3Eco-fashionattitudeandeco-fashionbehavior 64

6.2.4Willingnesstopayforsustainablejeans. 64

6.2.5Brandattitudeandbrandbehavior 66

6.3Environmentalattitudevseco-fashionattitude 66

6.4Model2Eco-fashionattitudeandinvolvement 67

6.4.1:Eco-fashionattitude 67

6.3.2Eco-fashioninvolvement 68

6.4.3Brandattitude 70

6.5Model3:Campaigninvolvement 70

VIIDiscussion&Conclusion 71

7.1Summary 71

7.2Researchquestions 72

7.3Conclusions 75

7.4Limitations 77

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7.5RecommendationsforFutureResearchandthefashionindustry 78

References 80

ApendixI 85

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Abstract

Thisstudyaimstoresearchwhichfactorsaffectconsumers’choicesregardingeco-fashion.

Inordertoresearchthesefactors,G-Star’sgreenfashionmarketingcampaignRawforthe

Oceanwasusedasacasestudy.Thisresearchtooktheformofasurveyexecutedamong

millennialslivingintheNetherlandsfromAugust2014untilAugust2016.Thetimeframe

reflectstheperiodthatthecampaignwasrunning.Thesamplewascollectedbysnowball

samplinginonlinespacesandrandomselectiononthestreetsofAmsterdam.Threemodels

wereusedtoforthisstudy,whicharetheattitude-behaviormodel,theeco-fashion

involvementmodelandthecampaigninvolvementmodel.Furthermore,wasstudiedifthe

campaignhadchangedconsumer’sattitudeandbehaviorregardingthebrand,

environmentalsustainabilityandeco-fashion.Accordingtotheresultsaffectedconsumers’

gender,age,fashionattitude/involvement,environmentalattitude/involvementandeco-

fashionattitudeconsumers’eco-fashionchoices.Olderconsumerswithinthemillennial

generation,makemorepositivechoicesregardingeco-fashionthanyoungerconsumers

withingeneration.Femalesfindeco-fashionmoreimportantandaremoreeco-fashion

involvedthanmen.Furthermore,hasahighscoreregardingenvironmentalattitude/

involvement,fashionattitude/involvementandeco-fashionattitudeapositiveeffectoneco-

fashionchoices.

Keywords:sustainability,attitude,behavior,involvement,effect,fashion,

environment,eco-fashion,brand,marketing,campaign,G-Star,RawfortheOcean.

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Introduction

Thepastyearshaveseenanincreaseinsustainabilityawarenessinthefashionindustry,as

evidencedbytheemergenceofsustainableinitiatives,suchastheDutchgovernment’s

textilecovenant,Greenpeace’sfashiondetoxcampaign,andtheSustainableBrandIndex.In

addition,largeretailersandbrands,suchasH&MandG-Star,havestartedtoincorporate

sustainabilityintotheirbusinessmodels,marketingstrategies,andadvertisingcampaigns.

Mediaattentiononbothsustainabilityingeneralandglobalwarminginparticularseemsto

beontherise(Schmidtetal.,2013).Theheightenedemphasisonsustainabilityinthe

fashionindustrymighthavestemmedfromtheoverallincreasedattentiononsustainability

issuesorfromthemajorscandalsthathaveappearedinthemediainrecentyears.Brands

havebeenblamedfortheirinhumanworkingconditions,theridiculouslylowsalaries

providedtoworkers,andenvironmentalcontaminationcausedbytheintensiveuseof

chemicalsandnaturalresourcesduringtheclothingproductionprocess(Caniatoetal.,

2011).

Thesearchforlessexpensiveproductionmethodshasresultedinproductiontaking

placeintheFarEast,withtransport-relatedenergyconsumptionandemissionissuesone

consequenceofthatshift(Caniatoetal.,2011).Clothingproductionandtransportation

causesenvironmentaldamage,whileusedclothinggeneratesanenormousamountof

waste.Asaresultofthesescandals,thepublichascalledonthefashionindustrytobemore

responsible,changeitspractices,andengageinopencommunicationaboutthistopic

(Gauld,2014).However,thisiseasiersaidthandone.Thefashionindustryencompasses

manydifferentstakeholders,includingbrands,fabricproducers,manufacturers,consumers,

journalists,publicrelationsgents,andadvertisingagencies(Caniatoetal,2010).Theclothing

industryisclearlyaninefficientsector:Asmallnumberofpeopletakeadvantageofthe

opportunities,whileothersareworseoff(Kruggman&Wells,2006).Inaddition,when

sustainablyproducedgarmentsareonlywornafewtimesbeforebeingdiscarded,they

becomeunsustainable(Jung&Jin,2014).Toachievesustainability,theconsumermust

contributetotheproduct’slifecyclefromthemomentofpurchaseuntilthemomentof

disposal.Severalhavestartedtorecognizetheirleadingroleandtoincorporate

sustainabilityconcernsintotheirbusinessmodels.

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TheDutchjeansbrand,G-Star,forexample,introducedthelineRawfortheOcean,which

featuresnewjeanscreatedfromplasticbottlescollectedatsea.G-Starcarriesoutthis

projectincollaborationwithBionicYarn,acompanythatcreatesyarnfromplasticbottles.

Recyclingplasticbottlesresultsinnotonlycleaneroceansbutalsonewproducts.This

approachfitswithThorby’s(2005)strongandweaksustainabilitymodels:“TheStrong

sustainabilitymodelentailsthatnaturalcapitalasbeingstrictlynon-substitutablefor

human-madecapital,aviewderivinginpartfromtheuniquelife-supportingpropertiesof

globalair,landandwatersystems.”Cleaningtheoceansisnecessarybecausethereisno

substituteforthesea,andhumansshouldcarryoutsuchactionstopreventitfrombeing

damaged.Inaddition,G-Starofferedahumansubstituteforthegarbageintheoceans,since

“itistheaggregatecapitalstockthatmattersandnothowitiscomprised”(p.6).Cleaning

theoceansfunctionsasacompromise.Furthermore,themarketingcampaignpromotingthe

G-Starprojectinformsconsumersaboutanenvironmentalproblemandencouragesthemto

actuponit.Thisstudy’sprimaryresearchquestionis:

Whatarethefactorsthataffectconsumers’choicesregardingeco-fashion?

Toanswerthisresearchquestion,thisstudyusedG-Star’sRawfortheOcean

campaignasacasestudy.Thisquantitativeresearchstudyprojecttooktheformofasurvey

executedamongmillennialslivingintheNetherlandsfromAugust2014untilAugust2016.

Millennialsareagenerationbornbetween1977and2000(Smith,2010).Thistimeframe

reflectstheperiodthatthecampaignwasrunning.Thesamplewascollectedbysnowball

samplinginonlinespaceswheremillennialsgatherandviaasimplerandomselectionof

peopleonthestreetsinAmsterdam.Theplaceswherethepeopleareselectedrandomly

selectedintheareaofthethreeG-Starstores.Otherspaceswherepeoplearerandomly

selectedarehighschoolsanduniversities.

Accordingtotheliterature,agreenfashionmarketingcampaign’seffectona

consumerdependsonseveralindividualattributes,suchasthatperson’sdemographics,

fashioninvolvement,sustainabilityinvolvement,brandinvolvementandcampaign

involvement.However,thereisonlyanissuewiththesustainabilityinvolvement.Several

studieshaveclaimedthatsustainablefashionconsciousnessandsustainableconsciousness

inothersectorsarenotthesameandconsumerswhoaresustainableconsciousdonothave

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besustainablefashionconscious(Chan&Wong,2012).Therefore,hasthisresearchdivided

thefactorsustainableinvolvementintotwoseparatefactors:environmentalinvolvement

andeco-fashioninvolvement.Inaddition,involvementisalsodefinedbyotherfactors,

whichareaconsumer’sattitudeandbehavior.Importantly,theliteratureclaimsthatthese

attributesinfluenceeachother.Forexample,one’senvironmentalinvolvementaffectsone’s

eco-fashioninvolvement.Furthermore,agreenmarketingcampaignitselfcanincreasea

person’senvironmental,eco-fashion,andbrandinvolvementscore.Basedonthese

influencingfactors,thefollowingsub-questionswereformulated:

Sub-questions:

1. Towhatextenddifferconsumer’senvironmentalattitudeandeco-fashionattitude

fromeachother?

2. Towhatextentdoconsumers’demographics,fashionattitudeandenvironmental

attitudeaffecttheireco-fashionattitude?

3. Towhatextentdoconsumers’demographics,fashioninvolvementandenvironmental

involvementaffecttheireco-fashioninvolvement?

4. Towhatextentdoesaconsumer’sattitudeinfluencehisorherbehavior?

5. Towhatextentdoesconsumers’fashionattitudeaffecttheirbrandattitudetowards

G-Star?

6. Towhatextentdoconsumers’environmentalattitude,eco-fashionattitude,and

brandattitudeaffectthecampaignattitude?

7. Towhatextentchangedthecampaignconsumers’brandattitude,environmentaland

eco-fashionattitudeandbehavior?

Thisthesisisstructuredasfollows:Thefirstchapterintroducesthesubjectof

sustainabilityinthefashionindustryandotherrelatedissues.Thesecondchapterdiscusses

fashionmarketingandgreenfashionmarketing.Thethirdchapterprovidesinsightinto

consumers’purchase-relateddecision-makingprocessesandoutlinesthosefactorsthat

previousresearchhasindicatedcaninfluencesuchchoices.Thefourthchapterprovides

informationonG-StarandtheRawfortheOceancasestudy.Thefifthchapterdetailsthe

methodology,includingthesamplingapproach,datacollectionprocedures,hypotheses,

researchmodels,theoperationalizationofthevariables,andtheresearch’svalidityand

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reliability.Thesixthchapterprovidestheresultsgeneratedbytheseanalyses.Theseventh

chapterconcludesthethesisanddiscussesthestudy’slimitationsandthescopeforfurther

research.

I.Sustainabilityinthefashionindustry

Thischapterprovidesinsightsintothefashionindustryanditsrelationshipwith

sustainability.Thefirstsectiondiscussesthethecharacteristicsofthecreativeindustriesand

therelationofthefashionindustrytowardsit.Thesecondpartelaboratesconceptof

sustainabilityinthefashionindustryandtheandtherolebrandasagatekeeperfor

promotingsustainablefashion.Thethirdpartdiscussestheproblemofoverconsumption.

Thefourthpartprovidesinsightinconsumer’sattitudeandbehaviortowardssustainability.

Thelastpartdiscussesfashionasanhighinvolvementgoodandwhatthatentailsforthe

relationshipwiththeconsumer.

1.1Creativeindustries

Tounderstandissuesregardingsustainabilityinthefashionindustry,itisimportanttofirst

definewhatdistinguishesthatsectorfromotherindustries.Thefashionindustryispartof

thelargerculturalindustry,whichhasbeendefinedas“consistingoffirmsthatmass-

producegoodsandserviceswithsufficientartisticcontenttobeconsideredcreativeand

culturallysignificant.Theessentialfeaturesarethecombinationofindustrial-scale

productionwithcreativecontent”(Towse,2001,p.125).Anotherattributewhatmakesthe

culturalindustriesdifferentare“theeconomiccharacteristicsofculturalcontentproduction

or‘creativity”(Towse,2001,p.127).Creativeindustriessharefeatureswithother

informationknowledgeandinformationgoodsproducers:highfixedcostsforproducingthe

originalmastercopyandaverylowmarginalcostofmakingfurtherreplicas.Inthefashion

industry,theselowmarginalcostsareachievedbyofferinglowwagesinthird-world

countries.Whenitcomestosustainablefashionproduction,theselowmarginalcostsare

themainproblemcreatorsthatstimulatesoverconsumption.

1.2Sustainabilityandgatekeepers

In1987,theUnitedNationsclaimedthatsustainabilityistheabilitytosatisfycurrentneeds

withoutcompromisingfuturegenerations’requirements(Caniatoetal.,2010).Amore

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recentstudybyBansal(2002)hasarguedthatsustainabilityconcernstherelationshipamong

threeprinciples:economicgrowth,socialequity,andrespectfortheenvironment.Economic

growthrequiresanadequateuseofresources,sothatindividualscanmaintainareasonable

standardoflivingwhileavoidingsocialharmandenvironmentaldamage.

Inordertoachievesustainabilityinthefashionindustry,keysustainabilitystrategies

includetheuseoforganicfibers,there-useandrecyclingofmaterials,vintageorsecond-

handpractices,andcleanerproductiontechnologies(Caniatoetal.,2011).However,whenit

comestobringingaboutarealchangeinthefashionindustry,thesepracticesseem

ineffectiveandinsufficient.Thereasonforthesedifficultiesisthebroadrangeofglobal

stakeholdersinvolved,andtheseincludesuppliers(e.g.,fibers,machinery,andchemicals),

manufacturers(e.g.,clothingandtextiles),retailers,fashionbureaus,post-consumeractors

operatinginthesecond-handmarket,independentexperts,andserviceproviders.To

achieverealchange,allparticipantshavetocontribute,fromclothingproducerstoclothing

consumers(Caniatoetal,2010).

Manyofthesestakeholdersfunctionasgatekeepers.Gatekeepingisaninterim

processthattakesplacewithintheproductionchainandeffectivelydeterminesthenature

oftheculturalsupply.Firmsincreativeindustriesperformthetaskofselectingitemsto

produceandmarketfromanabundant(evenexcess)supplyofcreativecontent,and

thereforetheydecidewhatculturalgoodsandservicesareofferedtoconsumers”(Thorsby,

2001,p.129).AccordingtoLeeetal.(2012),retailersandbrandsalsoplayanessentialrole

asgatekeeperswhenitcomestoencouragingconsumerstoengageineco-friendlybehavior.

Theyhaveclaimedthat“asretailersencourageconsumptionofgreenproductsand

discourageconsumptionofnon-greenproductsthroughgreenretailing,theydirectly

influenceconsumerattitudeandbehavior”(p.68).Thestrengthoftheimpactonattitude

andbehaviordependson“howtheconsumersperceivegreenretailactivities”.(Leeetal.,

2012,p.69).FollowingLeeetal.(2012)claimsthat“greenretailingbyfashionretailersand

brandsmayhaveastronginfluenceonintroducingconsumptionofgreenproductsif

consumersperceivehighvaluesfromtheretailers’activities”(p.69)

1.3Increasingconsumption

Inthepartregardingculturalindustriesisstatedthatthelowmarginalcostsincrease

overconsumption.Theissueregardingoverconsumptionisthatitusesupallthenatural

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recourses.Ontheplanetthereare“3.8billion-year-oldreservesofnaturalcapital”.The

increaseinconsumptionanduseofalargeamountofnaturalrecourcesstartedinthethe

mid-eighteenthcentury.Fromthenon“moreofnaturehasbeendestroyedthaninallprior

history”.Anexampleofthenature’sdestructionduetotheincreaseinconsumptionisthata

thirdoftheforestcoverwasstrippedoverthelast50years"(Chapman,2009,p.35)

Inadditiontothisincreaseinconsumption,productlifespanshavealsodeclined:"Neither

brokennordysfunctional,theseorphanshavebeencastasidebeforetheirtimetomakeway

fornewer,youngermodelsinanadulterousswingwecallconsumerism"(Chapman,2009,p.

35).Thismodelofintenseconsumptionandshortproductlifespansisespeciallyapplicable

tothefashionindustry,whereconsumptionisstimulatedbyrapidlychangingtrends.Inthe

past,designersproduced2collectionsperyear;theynowrelease12collectionsayear.

Inanidealworld,peoplewouldpurchasefewerproductsandusethemforalonger

periodoftime.Accordingtothecycleassessment(LCA),“extendinggarments’activelifevia

design,maintenance,andre-useofclothingisthemosteffectivemethodofreducingthe

impactoftheclothingindustryontheenvironment.Extendingtheaveragelifeofclothesby

threemonths’usageperitemwouldreducecarbon,water,andwastefootprintsby5-10%,

thusleadingtosavingsofbillionsofpoundsforproducersandconsumers"(McLarenetal.,

2016,p.1).Inthefashionindustry,suchanapproachwouldincludepurchasingfewerhigh-

qualityproductsforahigherprice.However,"thefashionbusinessclearlythriveson

innovationandthecreationofobsolescence,thusappearingtobeincompatiblewiththe

notionofkeepingclothesforanextendedperiodoftime"(McLarenetal.,2016,p.1).The

contradictioninthefashionindustryleadstotherelevanceofexaminingconsumers’

purchasedecisionsandattitudestowardsethicalandsustainableclothing.Ifconsumerscan

betriggeredtochangetheirbehavior,companieswouldbeforcedtochangetheirpractices.

1.4ConsumersAttitudetowardsSustainableFashion

Previousresearchhasdemonstratedthatconsumersareadoptingamorepositiveattitude

towardssustainabletypeofclothing.However,thereisstillanattitude-behaviorgap

betweenconsumers’ethicalinterestsandtheirpurchasingbehavior,andthisfissureis

leadingtoamarketfailure.Inthefashionindustry,individuallypursuingone’sowninterest,

insteadofpromotingtheinterestsofsocietyasawhole,makessocietyworseoff(Krugman

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&Wells,2006).Thereareseveralfactorscausingthisproblem,andthisresearchpaper

focusesonthemostimportantofthese,product-relatedattributes(e.g.,designandprice)

(Joergens,2006).Pricesforethicalclothingarenotcomparablewiththepricesofclothing

producedinAsianfactories—acategorythatincludesmanyoftheproductssoldinstores.

AccordingtoNiinimaki(2009)andJoergens(2006),anotherproduct-relatedproblem

pertainstodesignandquality:Manufacturersstilllacktheknowledgeneededtodesignand

producefashionableandhigh-qualityeco-friendlyclothingthatmeettheaestheticneedsof

theconsumer.Joergens(2006)hasclaimedthatthemainreasonfortheattitude-behavior

gapisthatconsumersareunwillingtosacrificetheirpersonaldesiresforsustainability.

FollowingNiinimaki(2009)hasstatedthatreasonfortheattitude-behaviorgabisthe

factthatchoosingforsustainableornon-sustainablefashiondoesnotaffecttheconsumer

directly.Inothermarketsectors,suchasfood,peoplehavetakenmorestepstowards

consumingenvironmentallyfriendlyproducts.Therationaleexplainingofthisdevelopment

isthatasectorsuchasthefoodindustrydirectlyaffectsaperson’shealth,andinsome

cases,individualscanfeeltheresultsimmediately.Foodsproducedinaneco-friendly

mannertastesbetter,andinaddition,eatinghealthierfoods,suchasvegetables,gives

peoplemoreenergy(Chan&Wong,2012).AccordingtoLeeandHill(2012),theattitude-

behaviorgapiscausedbyalackofknowledgeregardingsustainabilityintheclothing

industry.

Additionally,consumersoftenfeelthattheiractionshavenoimpactwhenitcomes

tosuchglobalissues.Inparticular,consumersaged18-to35-years-oldareconcernedabout

humanrightsandtheenvironmentbutfeelthattheylackthepowertomakeactualchanges

(Niinimaki(2009).Smith(2010)supportsthisstatementbyarguingthatmillennialsfind

sustainabilityhighlyimportantandareseekingbrandsthatwanttohaveapositiveimpact

ontheenvironment(Smith,2010).However,thereisalargegapbetweenthoughtsand

preferencesofmillennialconsumersandwhatcompaniesareactuallydoing.

Hanketal.(2008)studiedmillennials’attitudesandbehaviorsregardingthe

sustainableconsumptionofelectronicproducts,andtheresultsofthatanalysismadethis

pointevenclearer.Whentherespondentswereaskedwhotheythoughtwasresponsiblefor

globalwarming,mostrespondentsansweredtheenergyindustry,followedbythe

government,theautomobileindustryandothermanufacturers.Thegroup,whichscoresthe

lowestaretheproduct,softwareandhardwaredesignersandindividualconsumers.Anda

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verysmallpartbelievednoonewasresponsible.ThereforeHanketal.(2008)concluded,“it

isclearthatthevastmajorityofparticipantsbelievesomeoneisresponsible,theyjustaren’t

surewhom.Whilethesestudentsassesscompaniesandgovernmentsasthemostatfault,

designersarestillheldtoonlyaconsequentialamountofresponsibility—althoughnoless

sothanindividualconsumers”(p.336).However,accordingtoLee&Hill(2012),itispossible

tochangeconsumers’feelingsofpowerlessnessregardingsustainability.Thatauthorstated

thatwhenconsumersfeelthattheyhavemoreofanimpact,theyaremorewillingtoengage

inresponsiblebehavior(Lee&Hill,2012).

1.5Highinvolvementgoods

Themotivatingfactorsmentionedabovearedrivenbypracticalchoices,suchaswillingness

topay,andemotions.Anindividualmightneedaspecificitem,butifseveralcompanies

offersimilarproducts,hisorherfinaldecisionswillbebasedonemotions.Furthermore,

mostpeoplehavemoreclothingthantheyneedforpracticalpurposes.Therefore,fashion

belongstothecategoryof“highinvolvement”goods.Theseareproductsthatconsumers

purchasetofeelconnectedtoacertainlifestyletowhichtheyaspire.Inthefashionindustry,

design,prices,andtrendsleadtoconsumerconsumptionbehaviorlinkedtotheneedto

participate,andproductsrepresentabridgetowardsthedesiredlifestyle(McCracken,

1988).Kaiser(1990)hasarguedthatfashionisasymbolicproduct.Fashionmergeswith

personalneeds;itexpressestheindividual’spersonalitybyexternalmarksandsymbols,

brands,andstatusitems.Fashionisalsoadynamicsocialprocessthatcreatescultural

meaningsandinteractions.Infact,itcanbeseenasafundamentalpartofsocialinteraction.

AccordingtoNiinimaki(2009),consumerdecisionsregardingthepurchaseofsustainable

itemsareoftendrivenbyguiltratherthandesire.FollowingKaiser’s(2011)theory,thebest

possiblescenariowouldbeforsustainableclothingtobecomedesirableandapartofa

people’slifestyles.Inordertofacilitatelongerproductlifespans,greaterdurabilityisneeded

toestablishthelifespanofproductsdesignformoredurabilityisneeded.“Adesignfor

durabilityisadesigninwhichproductlongevityisnotconsideredsolelyintermsofan

object’sphysicalendurance"(Chapman,2009,p.34).

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II.Marketingfashionandsustainability

“Amarketisagroupofconsumersexpressingdesiresandneedsforproducts,services,or

ideas.Theconceptsofneedanddesirearethecornerstonesofmarketingandthekeytoany

marketingstrategy.Traditionalmarketingtheoryimpliesthatacompanyseekstofillan

existingneedamongconsumersinordertobesuccessful”(Towse,2011,p.266).Oncea

productfulfillingthatneedhasbeenproduced,however,itstillmustbesoldtothe

consumer.Inorderforagoodtosell,consumersmustfirstofallbeawareofit.Secondly,

consumersmustdesirethatproductmorethanthoseproducedbycompetitors.Message

marketingisthetoolemployedtocommunicatetheaspectsmentionedintheabove.

AccordingtoRathetal.(2015),“marketingisaprocessthatincludesthecommunicationof

allinformationthatsellerswanttosharewithconsumers,fromthetimeaproductorservice

isanideathroughitspurchase,use,evaluation,anddisposalbytheconsumer”(p.10).

Furthermore,marketingisimportant,becauseitcancreateacompetitiveadvantage(Kumar

etal.,2012,Rathetal.,2015).Thissectionprovidesinsightsintofashionmarketing,green

fashionmarketing,andstrategiesforcommunicatingasefficientlyandeffectivelyas

possible.

2.1Marketing

AccordingtoAnsary(2006;inKumaretal.[2012]),"themarketingstrategyrevolvesaround

3C'si.e.,customer,company,andcompetitors.Amarketerneedstoattractnewconsumers

andmaintaintherelationshipwiththecurrentones.Whenthisisdonecorrectly,marketing

cancreateacompetitiveadvantage.However,toachievethatgoal,itisessentialtolistento

consumers’needsandtosatisfythembydeliveringthesought-afterbenefitsand

communicatingeffectively(Rathetal.,2015).AccordingtoRathetal.(2015),“marketingcan

beseenasabigumbrellatermthatplaysaroleinmanyintegratedactivities,allofwhichare

basedonandenhancedbythestudyofconsumerbehavior”(p.10).“Theactivitiescovera

broadrangefromdesign,research,testmarketingpricing,production,promotion,and

distribution”(Rathetal.,2015,p.12).Furthermore,“marketersmustcontinuouslyevaluate

andinnovate,sincenotallproductsorservicescanremainthesameforeverandstillbe

desirable”(Rathetal.,2015,p.12).Notonlyproductsandserviceschange,butalso

marketingstrategiesandtheirfocalpointshaveundergonemanytransformationsoverthe

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years.Forexample,marketinghasbecomemoreconsumer-oriented,the"requirementsand

orientationoftheconsumer"havealsoshifted(Kumaretal.2012,p.482-483).Therefore,

theincreasesociety’sattentiononsustainabilityledsustainabilityasamarketingstrategy,

whichthenextsectionelaborateson.

2.2Greenmarketing

Agreenmarketingcampaignisatypeofenvironmentallyfocusedpromotionactivitythat

companiescanundertaketopromoteitscorporatesocialresponsibility(CSR)initiatives.

AccordingtoLeeetal.(2012):“Greenpromotionsimprovethecorporateimage,induce

productandservicepurchases,andchangeconsumers’eco-friendlyattitude”(p.70).

However,othersourcesclaimthatcompaniesareforcedintogreenmarketing,becauseif

theydonotparticipatewiththegreentrendtheylosesales(Cronin,etal.2011).This

developmentworkssimilartotheCoca-ColaandPepsiadvertisementphenomenon.Leading

brandssuchasCocaColaandPepsistilladvertisealthoughitdoesnotdirectlyincreasesales.

Hartmann&Klapperstudythisphenomenonforleadingsodabrandsthatadvertise

duringthecommercialbreakoftheSuperBowl,whichisthemostwatchedAmericanTV-

show.Theyconcludethattheleadingsodabrandshavetoadvertisebecauseotherleading

sodabrandsadvertisetoo.IfCocaColadecidesnottoadvertiseandPepsidecidesto

advertise,CocaColalosessalestoPepsi.However,iftheybothadvertisenoonegainsor

losessales.Therefore,theCocaColaPepsiphenomenonappliestogreenmarketinginthe

fashionindustry.Brands/retailerspromotetheirsustainabilitypractices,becauseother

brands/retailershavetodo.Iftheydonotadvertisesustainabilitywhilecompetitorsdo

advertise,itwilldecreasethesalesandbrandimage.Thebrandthatdidnotchosefora

greenmarketingcampaign,isseenasfarlesssustainablethanthebrandsthatdochosefora

greenmarketingcampaign.

2.3Greenmarketingimpact

AccordingtoGrappietal.(2017)arguesthat,“theimpactofconsumers’perceptionsofthe

enlightenmentofgreencampaignsontheirconsumptionofgreenproductsisprocessed

throughamechanismsimilartotheimpactofenvironmentaleducationonreceivers”(p.

1172).Therefore,greenmarketingcampaignscanbecomparedtoNGOcampaigns.

FollowingGrappietal.(2017)states,“NGOcampaignssignificantlyinfluenceconsumers’

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judgmentofabrand”(p.1172).Leeetal(2012)supportsthisbyarguingthatthemessage

senderamaybedifferent(commercialversuspublicagency),buttheirgoalissimilar,

convincingmessagereceivers.“Inmarketing,persuasionisaprocessthroughwhich

communicationisdeliveredtochangebeliefsorattitudesintheintendedway”(Leeetal,

2012,p.71).

AccordingtoSimmonsandWidmar(1990),environmentaleducationhasanindirect

effectonconsumers’levelofeco-friendlyconsciousness.Changesinanindividual’seco-

friendlyconsciousnessinturninfluencehisorhereco-friendlyconsumptionpatterns

(Wildmar,1900;Chan&Wong,2012;Niinimaki,2009).Furthermore,severalstudieshave

identifiedasignificantpositiverelationshipbetweeneco-friendlyconcernsandbehaviors

(Arbuthnot,1977;Kallgren&Wood,1986;Simmons&Widmar,1990).However,afew

studieshaveonlyfoundaweakrelationshipbetweengreenconsciousnessandgreen

behavior.“Theconceptthattherewouldbeaweakrelationshipbetweengreen

consciousnessandgreenbehaviorstemsfromthefactthatenvironmentalgoodsaresimilar

topublicgoods,unlikeotherconsumergoods(Lee,2012,71).Duetothiscontradictionin

theliterature,furtherresearchisnecessarytobetterunderstandwhycertainauthorshave

claimedthatthereisarelationshipbetweenenvironmentalconsciousnessandbehavior,

whileothershaveindicatedotherwise.Therefore,thiscasestudyoftheeffectsofacurrent

marketingcampaignishighlyrelevant.

2.4Greenmarketingtechniques

“Whenmarketingsustainability,apparelmarketersmaybuildmorepositiveattitudes

towardbrandsbyprovidingexplicitinformationaboutenvironmentalfriendlyproductsin

theirmarketingclaims”(Yanetal.,2012,p.151).Marketingstrategiescommunicatingabout

aproductorbrand’senvironmentallyfriendlyqualitiesoftenincorporatetermssuchas“eco,

green,natural,organic,andsustainable”intheirpromotionalmessages.Asuccessful

exampleofthisapproach,accordingtoShenetal.(2014),is“TheConsciousCollection”from

H&M.Byincorporatingthesustainableword“conscious”intothecollection’sname,the

brandensuredthatpeoplewouldimmediatelyunderstandthesustainableconcept

underlyingit(p.973).“However,suchpromotionalmessageslackexplicitmeaning,thatis,

theyoftendonotprovideconsumerswithinformationaboutthespecificmaterialsand

methodsusedtomanufacture‘eco-fashion’,therebyleavingconsumersuncertainor

17

confusedaboutthevalidityofsuchmarketingclaims.AnalyzingtheRawfortheOcean

campaignfromthisperspectivethewordchoiceisveryrefinedandexpressesthemain

messageofthecampaign,whichisthatthebrandG-Starhelpstotheoceansandwaterlife

togetclean.Thename“Raw”isasubstituteforG-Star,whichisalsoreferredtoasG-Star

Raw.Rawreferencesinturntotherawdenimlookthebrandisknownfor.Although,the

campaignmessageisnottooobvious,itisstillclearandcommunicatesthemainpoint.

Thelackofclarityandtheuseofvaguetermsrelatingtoenvironmentallyfriendly

productsandbrandscancreateconfusionand/orraiseconcernsaboutgreenwashinginthe

mindsofconsumersthatmayinhibitpurchasedecisions”(Yanetal.p.152)."Greenwashing

happenswhencompaniesmakeoverblownclaimsofsustainabilityorenvironmentalfriendly

practicesinordertoattempttoincreasetheirmarketshare"(Dahl,2010,p.118).However,

greenwashingisnotnecessarilyanegativedevelopment.Asmentionedabove,“thegreen

campaignscaninfluenceconsumers’environmentalconsciousnesspositively”(Yanetal.,p.

152).

III.Consumers’choices

Notallconsumersrespondinasimilarwaytoeco-fashionandeco-fashionmarketing

communication.Somepeople“mayreadilyfeelarousalandinterest,andshowemotional

attachmentandfavorablebehavior,whileothersmayfeellittlearousalorinterestand

therebyshownochangeintheirattitudeorbehavior”(Leeetal.,2012,p.72).Thischapter

providesinsightsintoconsumers’decision-makingprocesses,thefactorsthatinfluence

choicesregardingeco-fashion,andtheeffectsofaeco-fashioncampaign.

3.1Decision-making

Asmentionedinthepreviouschapter,thestartingpointofamarketingcampaignisthe

consumer’sneedforacertainproduct.Whenitcomestoconsumer’sdecision-making

processes,thismechanismworksexactlythesameway.Itallstartswithproblemawareness,

whichoccurswhenconsumersnoticeanimbalancebetweenthecurrentsituationandthe

idealone.“Whenthegapislargeenoughbetweenthecurrentandidealsituationand

potentialsolutionsareavailable,thepersonbecomesawarethattheremustbeachange”

(Rathetal,2015,p287).Ingeneral,consumersselecttheproductorservicefeaturingthe

18

widestdistancebetweentheircurrentsituationandtheiridealsituation,soastoachievethe

greatestpossibleresult.Inordertocreatethisgap,themarketer“(1)makesiteasyforthe

consumertounderstandthedifferencesamongcompetingbrands,(2)relatetoandvisualize

thesizableimprovementsgained,and(3)minimizethedifficultyindecision-making”(Rath

etal.,p.295).

3.2Influencingfactors

Thosefactorsthatpreviousresearchhasindicatedaffectconsumers’choicescanbedivided

intosixgroups,whicharethepersonalattributes,thefashioninvolvement,environmental

sustainableinvolvement,theeco-fashioninvolvement,thebrandinvolvementandthe

campaigninvolvement/effect.Thefactorsenvironmentalandeco-fashioninvolvement

involvetherelationshipconsumershavewiththesetopics(Leeet.al.,2012;O’Cass,2000).In

theliteratureitisnotcommontomakesuchascleardistinction,whichisstrangesincemany

authorsclaimthatthereisacleardistinctionbetweensustainableinvolvementbetweenthe

fashionindustryandothersectors.ChanandWong(2012)forexampleclaimthat“dueto

thefactthatfashionconsumersdifferfromcustomersinothersectorswhenmakingethical

consumptiondecisions,itisnecessarytodistinguishbetweenenvironmentalinvolvement

andeco-fashioninvolvement.Inothersectors,suchasthefoodindustrypeoplearemore

committed,becausetheirchoicesdirectlyaffecttheirhealth.Sinceunethicalchoicesdonot

influencetheconsumerdirectly,fashionconsumersareoftenlessmotivatedtomakeethical

choices.Therefore,individualsmightsimultaneouslybehighlyenvironmentallyconscious

andcompletelyuninvolvedineco-fashion.Ifthegroupsweretobeaddedtogether,itwould

giveaninaccurateimpressionoftheactualsituation.However,researchershaveprovided

fewanalysescomparingenvironmentalinvolvementandeco-fashioninvolvement

(Chan&Wong,2012).Severalstudieshavefailedtoclearlydistinguishbetweenthetwo.

Therefore,itisevenhighlyrelevanttotestwhetherenvironmentalandeco-fashionattitude

differfromeachother.Finally,thesixthgroupcontainsfactorsconnectedtoadvertising

involvement,whichinfluencesaconsumer’spurchasingchoices(Leeet.al.,2012;O’Cass,

2000).

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3.2.1Personalattributes

Thefirstgroupofinfluencingfactorsislinkedtoconsumers’personalattributesand

demographictraits.AccordingtoChanandWong(2012),environmentallyconscious

consumersdifferfromlessenvironmentallyconsciousconsumersintermsofage,gender,

educationlevel,andincomelevel.Chan(1999)hasstatedthatconsumerswhoarebetter

educated,havehigherincomes,andmoresocialstatustendtobemoreenvironmentally

conscious.However,thisenvironmentalconsciousnessisnotnecessarilyreflectedinthe

actionsoftheseconsumers.Furthermore,genderdifferencesalsoseemtoplayarolewhen

itcomestoenvironmentalconsciousness.Itseemsthatmenmayhavelowerlevelsofeco-

fashioninvolvementthanwomen.Likewise,menmaybelessmotivatedtopayahigherprice

forsustainablefashionthanarewomen(Yanetal.,2014).Whenitcomestoconsumers’

agesasaninfluencingfactor,researchersdisagreeonnumerouspoints.Somestudieshave

reportedthatenvironmentallyconsciousconsumerstendtobeyounger,whileothershave

claimedthatinvolvementdeepenswithage(Chan&Wong,2012).

3.2.2Fashioninvolvement

Thesecondgroupofinfluencingfactorsisconnectedtofashioninvolvement.“Research

indicatesthatfashioninvolvementmayaffectconsumers’responsestoadvertisement,

attitudestowardbrands,anddecisionstopurchaseapparel”(Yanetal.,2014,p.154).

Woodward(2005)hasarguedthatclothingreflectswhopeopleareandwhattheywantto

be,therebyencouragingindividualstomakeparticularfashionchoices.“Howinvolved

consumersbecomeintheirclothesprovidesadeeperunderstandingofthedynamicsof

consumerbehaviorandthenatureandroleoftheproductcategoryoffashionclothingin

society”(p.547).Therefore,fashioninvolvementinfluenceshowconsumersreacttoa

marketingcampaign.

Fashioninvolvementencompassestwofactors:fashionattitudeandfashion

behavior.Themorepositiveone’sfashionattitudeis,themorepositiveisthatperson’s

fashionbehavior.One’sfashionattitudecomprisesbothfashioninterestandfashion

knowledge(Adcock&Hirschman,1978;Kidd&Workman,2000).Fashionbehaviorcanbe

assessedviaanindividual’s‘monthlyfashionexpenses’,whichmeasurestheamountof

moneyspentonpermonthonfashion-relateditems.Anothervariableformeasuring

20

behavioris‘shoppingfrequency’,whichanalyseshowoftenaconsumershopsonaverage

(Lee,2012).

3.2.3Environmentalinvolvement

Thethirdgroupofinfluencingfactorsconsistsofvariableslinkedtoenvironmental

involvement.Severalstudieshaveidentifiedasignificantpositiverelationshipbetweeneco-

friendlyconcernsandbehavior(Arbuthnot,1977;Kallgren&Wood,1986;Simmons&

Widmar,1990).Itisoftenassumedthatenvironmentallyresponsibleconsumersarewilling

topayapremiumforeco-productstoprotecttheenvironment(Ferraroetal.,2005).One’s

environmentalinvolvementconsistsofone’senvironmentalattitudeandbehavior.A

person’senvironmentalattitudedemonstrateshisorheropinionregardingsustainability,

whileenvironmentalbehaviorreferstothatindividual’senvironmentallysustainableactions

(e.g.,wasteseparation,consumptionoforganicfood,limitationofoverallconsumption,

limitationofnaturalresourceuse,andtheuseofpublictransportation/biketransport;Fraj&

Martinez,2006).

3.2.4Eco-fashioninvolvement

Thefourthgroupofinfluencingfactorsaddressthetopicofeco-fashioninvolvement.Like

thepreviouslydiscussedcategories,eco-fashioninvolvementhasbothanattitudinalanda

behavioralcomponent.Severalresearchershavefoundarelationshipbetweenaconsumer’s

eco-fashionconcerns(attitude)andhisorhereco-fashionbehavior(Arbuthnot,1977;

Kallgren&Wood,1986;Simmons&Widmar,1990).Eco-fashionbehaviorconsistsofthe

actionsthataconsumertakestoconsumeinamoreeco-fashionfriendlymanner.Hanketal.

(2008)dividessustainableproductbehavior“intothecategoriespurchasing,replacement

cycle,sharing,andhandlingendofservice”(p.337).Thecategorypurchasingbehavior

involvespracticessuchasacquisitionofenvironmentallyfriendlyclothes(e.g.,second-hand

clothingandsustainablebrands)insteadofnon-environmentalfriendlyclothes.Thecategory

replacementcycleinvolvespracticessuchas,theincreaseoftheclothes’usagetimespan

(throughrepairing,altering,anddyeingclothingorrepurposingfabricforotherprojects).

Thecategory‘handlingendofservice’entailsthatconsumersmakesuretheclothesthey

discardendupinrecycling(bybringingthemtoclothingcollectionpoints,givingtheclothes

awayorsellingthemonthesecondhandmarket).Thecategory‘sharing’istoocomplicated

toincorporateforfashionasaproductcategory.Duetopracticalandemotionreasons,

21

whichincludesize,fit,hygiene,personalstyleortheunwillingnesstosharesuchapersonal

product.Therearebusinessmodelsmodelsthatarebasedontheprincipleofsharing,such

asinthecostumerentalbusiness.However,thismarketissonicheinadditiontothefact

thatotherexternalfactorsinfluencetheusagetheservicethatitcannotbetakeninto

account.

Inadditiontoone’sattitudeandbehavior,one’swillingnesstopayforsustainable

fashionisalsoanindicatorofeco-fashioninvolvement.Previousresearchhasrevealedthata

commonissuewithsustainablefashionisthefactthatpeopleareunwillingtosacrifice

personalneeds(Joergens,2006).Comparinganindividual’swillingnesstopayforsustainable

versusnon-sustainablefashionprovidesaclearindicationofthetypeofconsumerthat

personis.AccordingtoChanandWong(2012)haveconsumersapricerangethattheyfind

acceptabletopayforacertainproduct.Ifthepriceofaproductis10%priceabovethe

‘acceptableprice’consumersarenotaffectedbyitandstillwillingtopurchasetheproduct.

However,whenaproductis25-30%abovethe‘acceptable’pricetheyarelikelytorefrain

frommakingthepurchase.Furthermore,eco-fashioninvolvedconsumersareoftenassumed

tobewillingtopayahigherpriceforeco-productsthatprotecttheenvironment.

3.2.5Brandinvolvement

Thefifthgroupofinfluencingfactorsconcernsbrandinvolvement.“Fromamarketer’s

perspective,brandinvolvementisconsideredthekeytoactivateconsumers’motivationand

isafundamentalbaseforunderstandingconsumer/sellerrelationshipsinmarkets”(O’Cass,

1999,p.554).Brandinvolvementconsistsoftwoelements:brandattitudeandbrand

behavior.Abrandattitudecanbedescribed“asconsumers’judgmentoftheiroverall

experiencewithabrandandwhetherthebrandisheldinhighregard,trustedby,and

respectedbycustomers.Consumerexperienceorexpectationofexperiencewithabrand

canbedescribedintermsoffunctionalandemotionalvalues”(Yanetal.,2014).Incontrast,

brandbehaviormeasuresconsumers’purchasesandtheamountofmoneyspentonthem,

sincepurchasingitemsistheultimatemanifestationofapositivebrandattitude(Yagci,

Biswas&Dutt,2009).

3.2.6Campaigninvolvementandeffects

Thesixthgroupofinfluencingfactorsreferstocampaigninvolvement.Similartotheother

groups,campaigninvolvementcanbedividedintosubcategories:attitude,knowledge,and

22

behavior.Thecampaignattitudereferstotheattitudeoftheconsumerstowardsthe

campaign.Campaignbehaviorconsidersthenumberofpurchasesfromthatspecific

collectionandtheirmonetaryvalue.Whenpeoplehavepurchaseditemsfromaspecific

collectionandtheyarecontentwiththoseitems,theyarewillingtobuymore,becausesuch

apurchaseentailsalowerlevelofriskandfewersearchcosts.

Furthermore,agreencampaigncanhaveasideeffectthatifitchangesconsumers’

attitudesandbehavioronotherlevels.AccordingtoSimmonsandWidmar(1990),

environmentaleducationhasanindirecteffectonconsumers’eco-friendlyconsciousness.In

turn,changesinthatvariablehaveaninfluenceonconsumers’eco-friendlyconsumption

patterns(Simmons&Wildmar,1900;Chan&Wong,2012;Niinimaki,2010).Inaddition,a

greenmarketingcampaigncanalsoinfluenceconsumers’attitudesandbehaviortowards

thebrand(Leeetal.,2012).

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IV.Casestudy:G-StarandRawfortheOcean

Thissectionintroducesthecasestudy,whichcentersontheRawfortheOceancampaign

initiatedbytheDutchjeansbrand,G-star.Thisstudyconsideredhowmillennialconsumers

livingintheNetherlandsfromAugust2014untilAugust2016respondedtothecampaign.

Thattimeframemarkedtheperiodduringwhichthecampaignwasrunningandthe

collectionwasavailableforsale.ThedecisiontocenterthestudyontheRawfortheOcean

campaignisduetotheinternationalreachofG-Star.TherearenotmanyDutchfashion

brandswithaglobalpresenceandinfluencethatlaunchagreenmarketingcampaign.The

numberofbrandsandretailersactivelypromotingenvironmentalsustainabilityisstillquite

nicheandfocussesmainlyontheuseoforganiccotton.Theinitiativesthataremore

progressiveoftenperformonalocalscale.Therefore,thelargemultinationalsshouldtake

theleadinordertocreateglobalchange.InadditiontoG-Star’sglobalreachandthe

progressivecharacterofthecampaign,causedtheattentiontheyreceivedinthemediaa

buzz,whichmakesthiscasehighlyrelevanttoresearch.Furthermore,unlikecomparable

studiesthatuseafictionalcaseinanexperimentalsetting,G-Star’sresearchinvolvesan

actualexistingcase.

4.1G-Star

TheDutchjeansbrand,G-Star,isoneofthemostsuccessfulDutchfashionbrands,withsales

pointsinmorethan65countries.ItsheadquartersarelocatedinanAmsterdambuilding

thatRemKoolhaasspecificallydesignedtofitthefirm’satmosphere.Toensureaconsistent

brandimage,allofG-Star’sdesignandproductionwork(withtheexceptionoflarge-scale

production)takesplacein-house,includingactivitiesrangingfromitemdesigntostore

design(whichismodelledinanexperimentalstore)tophotography(whichtakesplaceinan

in-housestudio).ThecompanywasfoundedbyJosvanTilburgin1989underthenameof

Gapstar.G-Starstrategicallypositionsitselfwithaproductmixcomprisedofinnovative

denimpiecesandmorecommercial,casualdesigns.Therefore,G-Starattractsawiderange

ofconsumertypes.“Someconsumersarefashion-consciousandsearchingforfashion-

forwarddenimproducts;somelookforcasualeverydaypieces;othersareattractedtothe

brandforfunctionalorqualityreasons;andyetothersaredrawntotheproductsfortheir

statusvalueorasmarkersofgroupidentity”(FreiherrvonMaltzahn,2013,p.96).

24

Asmentionedpreviously,theG-Starbrandhaspushedboundariesinthedenim

worldthroughitssearchforinnovation.In1996,theheaddesigner,PierreMorisset,created

oneofthecompany’smosticonicdesigns,3Djeans,nowknownastheclassicElwood.This

productstartedasawearableexperimentinformandfunction,atoncecomfortableand

fashionable,accessibleandforward-thinking.“Thedesignwasinspiredbywater-soaked

bikerpants,withtheshapebasedonathree-dimensionalfitfollowingtheproportionsofthe

humanbodyinsteadofapairofsymmetricaltrouserlegs,thedesignmeantaradicalbreak

withthetraditionalfive-pocketjeans”(FreiherrvonMaltzahn,2013,p.96).Thedesignwasa

greatsuccessandsoldovermorethan10millioncopiesworldwide.Eventothisday,that

modelisstilloneofthebrand’stopsellers(FreiherrvonMaltzahn,2013).

Inadditiontoitsinnovativedesigns,thecompanyalsoemploysaninteresting

marketingmix,one“composedoftraditionalbillboardadvertising,productplacement,and

moreadvancedbrandingstrategies.Thefirmembracesaconsistentlycommercialmarket

approachstretchingtoallareasofthebusinessmodel.Thesumofthesethoughtsproduces

aninteresting(andoccasionallycontradictory)brandidentitywithglobalappeal”(Freiherr

vonMaltzahn,2013,p.96).

Furthermore,G-Starmakesuseofcelebrityendorsementasamarketingstrategyto

generateextramediaattentionandaddvaluetothebrand(Carrol,2008).Whenpurchasing

products,peoplenotonlybuyapartofthebrand'slifestyle,butalsopurchaseapieceofthe

celebrity’slifestyle.Byworkingwithacelebrity,thebrandcanconnecttoanewgroupof

consumers:thefansfollowingthatindividual.Forthecelebrity,ontheotherhand,sucha

collaborationcreatespublicityandenlargeshisorheraudienceaswell(Carrol,2008).The

celebritiesandartistsG-Starhasworkedwithandreferstoas‘friends’includeDJAfrojack,

photographerEllenvonUnwerth,modelLilyCole,andactressLivTyler.Inadditionto

collaborationswithcelebrities,G-Staralsopartnerswithotherbrandstocreateitsso-called

“Crossovers.”IthasalreadydesignedofficefurniturewithProuve,theRawCamerawith

Leica,theRawDefenderwithLandRover,abikewithConnondale,andawhiskeywith

Hennessy(FreiherrvonMaltzahn,2013;Gstar.nl,2017).

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4.2TheG-Starfashionconsumer

Asmentionedintheprevioussection,G-Starattractsawiderangeofconsumersduetoits

broadofferings.Ontheonehand,itscommercialitemsdrawalargetargetgroup,whileon

theotherhand,fashion-forwarditemsinterestasmallertargetaudience.AccordingtoJos

vanTilburg,“muchofG-Star’sbrandingstrategyisaboutpromotingacertainmentality”

(FreiherrvonMaltzahn,2013,p.96).Ashehasclaimed,“It’saboutaspecificattitude.

Dividingthemarketintoclustersisanoutdatedmodel.Thereisneitherayoungconsumer

groupnorasportyone.Thatideahasrunitscourse.Onedayconsumerswanttolooksmart,

thenexttheygoallcasual,andthedayaftertheywishtolookrough”(Freiherrvon

Maltzahn,2013,p.100).Thisalsoexplainsthecompany’sbroadlydefinedageofthetarget

group,whichincludesthosefrom18to34yearsold.Rightnow,thegroupinthatspecific

agerangeisthemillennialgeneration,whichisbornbetween1977and2000(Smith,2010).

4.3RawfortheOcean

TheDutchjeansbrand,G-Star,isanexampleofacompanythathasincorporated

sustainabilityintoitsbusinessmodel.InAugust2014,togetherwiththecompanyBionic

Yarnfromhip-hopstarPharrelWilliams,itlaunchedthetwo-yearcapsulecollectionRawfor

theOcean.BionicYarncreatesyarnfromrecycledplastic.OneofitsinitiativesisTheVortex

Project,whichwasstartedtofindasolutionforthelargeamountofplasticintheoceans

(Styleindicator.nl,2014).“Everydayabout13,000-15,000piecesofplasticaredumpedinto

theocean.Onagloballevelisthat6.4milliontonsperyear.Duetothecurrentsofthe

oceans,theplasticsgetaccumulatedatfivegyresofplasticpiecesalongwhichmarinelife

thrives”(Muthu,2016,p.105).Thesegyresmakeitverydifficulttocollecttheplasticfrom

themovingwater,andtheyalsoriskkillinganunacceptablylargenumberofanimals.

Therefore,TheVortexProject,incollaborationwithlocalorganizations,collectsgarbage

alongcoastlines.TheclaSchaeffer,thechiefmarketingofficeratG-StarRAW,understands

thatthisprojectisnotafinalsolutionfortheoverconsumptionofplastics,butviewsitasa

meansoftryingtocleanupasmuchplasticintheoceanaspossible,turningitintonew

products.ForthefirstRawfortheOceancollection,atleast10tonsofplastic—afigure

analogousto700,000plasticbottles—wasusedincombinationwithenvironmentally

friendlycotton(Styleindicator.nl,2014).

26

Aftertheplasticiscollected,therecyclingprocessstarts.Theretrievedoceanplastic

isbrokenintochips,shreddedintofibers,andpreparedforspinning.Theoceanfibersare

spunintoastrongyarncorewithacottonsheathtoformthebionicyarn.G-Starsupplies

thisyarntoknittingindustryweavingmillswhereitisconvertedintoRawfortheOcean

fabrics.Theartisticmilliner,Karachi,workswiththebionicyarnprovidedbyG-Starfor

conversionintodenimfabric.

Theeconomicsofplasticbottlerecyclingisverysimple."In2005,theUnitedStates

recycled3.3billionpoundsofpost-consumerplastics,thuspreventingthemfromgoingtoa

landfill.Theplasticrecyclingindustryprovidesjobstomorethan52,000Americanworkers.

FivePETbottlesyieldenoughfiberforoneextra-largeT-shirtperyear”(Muthu,2016,p.

106).

4.4TheRawfortheOceanmarketingcampaign

TheRawfortheOceanCampaignwaswelcomedwithopenarmsbyboththepressand

advertisingindustryprofessionals.In2014,thecampaignwontheGrandPrixProductDesign

awardattheCannesLionscreativefestival.Ayearlater,itwontwogoldmedalsandagrand

prixawardattheADCNLampen2015inAmsterdam.Thecampaignwasdevelopedwiththe

FHVBBDOadvertisingagencytogetherwithcreativestudioBiggerBetterPlan.Inadditionto

standardadvertisements,themarketingcampaignincludedadocumentaryaboutthe

project,whichinformedpeopleabouttheproblemsassociatedwiththehighlevelofplastic

intheocean.Themannerinwhichthecompanyhasframeditsmessageiscalled‘gain

framing’,andthatapproachmakessense,sincegainframingisthemosteffectivewayto

depictsustainabilitypracticesregardingrecycling.“Gain/lossframesmanipulatethe

outcomestoemphasizethebenefitsorcostsofthebehavior.Thefocusofthegainsand

lossescanbeonone’ssocialenvironment(socialthreat)orphysicalenvironment”(Chenet

al.,2011,p.48).WhenrelatingthistotheG-Starcampaign,itsay‘Bybuyingourproductyou

‘gain’acleanerocean’.ThisstrategytogetherwiththecelebrityendorsementofPharrel

Williamsastheline’sfaceandspokespersonwasasmartmarketingmove.

Anotherinterestingaspectofthecampaignpertaineditshighaccessibilityforalarge

audience.TheRawfortheOceanproductlinehasmadesustainableclothingveryaccessible

forthemasses,anuncommonachievementintheworldofsustainablefashion.Sustainable

27

fashionhasoftenbeenrestrictedtosmallcompanieswithlimitedproductioncapabilitiesor

tocompanysideprojects.G-Star,ontheotherhand,hasincorporatedsustainabilityintoits

policiesandproducts.G-StarhascommunicatedthattobepartoftheG-Starlifestyle,

peopleneedtobeenvironmentallyconscious.Moreover,G-Starisabrandwithastrong

image.Brandconsumptionhasbecomeaprocessofself-reference,self-identity,andself-

articulation.Peopleachieveaformofself-consistencyviatheirbrandconsumption(Carrol,

2008).AccordingtoCarrol(2008),thisisthereasonwhyincorporatingsustainabilityintothe

brandvisionhasbeenefficient.However,criticshaveclaimedthatRawfortheOceanonly

comprisesaverysmallportionofthecompany’sproduction,whileG-Starpresentsthatline

asamuchlargerpartofthewhole.However,G-starannouncedin2016thattheyare

replacingallpolyestersinthecollectionbyrecycledonesandRawfortheOceanfunctioned

asatestrunforthismuchlargerstep.Whetherthecampaignwasaformofgreenwashingis

notthatimportant,sinceitraisedenvironmentalawarenessamongconsumersand

addressedproblemscausedbythelargeamountofplasticsinthesea.(Yanetal.,2012).

28

V.Methodology

Thischapterdiscussesthemethodologyusedtoexaminethosefactorsthatinfluence

consumers’choicesregardingsustainablefashion.Thefirstpartgivesinsightsintothedata

collectionandsamplingmethods.Thesecondpartelaboratesonthesurveyandvariables

employedinthisresearch.Thethirdsectionprovidesthestudy’shypothesesandan

explanationoftheirdevelopment.Movingon,thefourthpartexplainstheresearchmodels

andtheoperationalizationofthevariables.Finally,thefifthsectiondiscussesthevalidityand

reliabilityofthisresearch

5.1.Datacollectionandsample

ThisresearchconsistedofanonlinesurveydevelopedwithQualtrics.Theresearchwas

cross-sectional,withthesurveydistributedduringthreeweeksinMay2017.G-Star’starget

groupispeopleaged18to34years-old.Thistargetgroupbelongstothemillennial

generation,whichwasbornbetween1977and2000(Smith,2010).Sincethistargetgroupis

notcleancut,thisstudy’ssampleconsistedofindividualsbelongingtothemillennial

generation,soastocreatesomeanoverlapandtoavoidexcludingactiveG-Starconsumers.

Toparticipate,therespondentsneededtohavebeenbornbetween1977and2000andto

havelivedintheNetherlandsfromAugust2014untilAugust2016,thetimeframeduring

whichtheRawfortheOceanCampaignranandduringwhichthecollectionwasavailablefor

salebothonlineandinphysicalstores.

Todistributethesurvey,acombinationoftwodifferentsamplingmethodswasused.

Thefirstmethod,snowballsampling,employedonlinenetworkswithwhichmillennials

engage.Manyscholarshaveacknowledgedthattheinternetprovidesnewopportunitiesfor

collectingrespondentsfornon-randomsurveys.Researcherscanbenefitfromtheinternet

andthesocialnetworkscomprisingit.Theseonlinenetworksincludethestudentunion’s

onlinenetworksandtheonlinenetworksofschoolslocatedinAmsterdam.Inaddition,

Facebookisanexampleofasocialnetworkingsite(SNS).AccordingtoBoydandEllison

(2008),SNSsare“web-basedservicesthatallowindividualstoconstructapublicorsemi-

publicprofilewithinaboundedsystem,articulatealistofotheruserswithwhomtheyshare

aconnection,andviewandtraversetheirlistofconnectionsandthosemadebyothers

withinthesystem”(p.1).Duetothesecharacteristics,theinternetandSNSsarehighly

29

appropriatetoolsforusewithinthesnowballsamplingmethod(Baltar&Brunet,2012).

Thesampleforthisstudywasdistributedatthestudentunion’sNonomesonline

communitythatconsistsofaprivateFacebookgroupforactiveandalumnimembers.By

distributingthesurveynotonlyamongactivemembersbutalsoamongalumni,itwas

possibletoengagewithawideragerange.Specifically,thesealumniwereaged22to50

years-old,whileactivemembersrangedfrom17to25years-old.Thereasonforselecting

Nonomesasastudentunionwasthatitsmembersfeaturedawiderrangeofbackgroundsas

comparedtootherstudentunionsinAmsterdam.Focusingonthatbodyyieldedasample

thatwasmorerepresentativeofthelargerpopulation.Furthermore,wasthesurvey

distributedatschool’sonlinenetworks,whicharepublicFacebookgroupsandaninternal

privatenetwork(i.e.,anintranet).TheschoolsselectedwerethecommunitycollegeROC

AmsterdamandtheschoolofUniversityofAppliedScienceHVA.

Inthesnowballsamplingtechnique,arespondentprovidestheresearcherwiththe

nameofthenextrespondent,whointurnprovidesthenameofathird,andsoon.Inthis

study,therespondentswereaskedtonamepeopleintheirnetworkwhomightalsobe

willingtocompletethesurvey.Thisstrategywasusedduetoalowresponserate.This

problemisparticularlyprevalentforsurveysdistributedinonlinenetworksandincasesin

whichcandidatesarenotpersonallyapproached(Baltar&Brunet,2012).

Inordertoincreasethevalidityofthesample,potentialrespondentswerealso

approachedinshoppingareasclosetoG-Starsalespoints,suchasthosesurroundingtheG-

StarstoresattheKalverstraat,theLeidsestraat,andtheP.C.Hoofdstraat(Bryman,2001).

Furthermore,toalsoincludehigh-schoolstudentsaged16yearsandabove,thesurveywas

distributedamongrandomlyselectedstudentsatCalandLyceuminAmsterdam.The

rationaleunderlyingthechoiceofthisspecifichighschoolwasthefactthatithousesall

levelsofeducationfromVMBO–TLtogymnasium.Furthermore,asthisschoolisnotlinked

toareligiousdenomination,itattractsamorediversegroupofpeople.

5.2Surveyvariables

Sixuniquevariablegroupswereusedtoconstructthesurveyquestions,andallofthese

factorsarediscussedindetailinSection3.2.Thefirstgroupofvariablesconsistedof

personalattributes(PA;e.g.,genderandage)describingtherespondents,andthesefactors

servedascontrolvariables.Thesecondgroupofvariablesanalyzedfashioninvolvement(FI),

30

ortherelationshipsthatconsumershavewithfashionandclothing.Thatfactorconsistedof

twosub-constructs:fashionattitude(FA)andfashionbehavior(FB).Thethirdgroupof

variablesmeasuredtherelationshipbetweenconsumersandenvironmentalsustainability

(environmentalinvolvement;EI).Itlikewiseconsistedoftwoelements:environmental

attitude(EA)andenvironmentalbehavior(EB).Thefourthvariablecategoryexaminedthe

relationshipsthattherespondentshadwithsustainablefashion(eco-fashioninvolvement;

EFI)viathreeconstructs:eco-fashionattitude(EFA),eco-fashionbehavior,andwillingnessto

pay(WP).ThefifthgroupanalyzedtherelationshipsthattherespondentshadwiththeG-

Starbrand(brandinvolvement;BI).Thatcategoryencompassedtwoelements:brand

attitude(BA)andbrandbehavior(BB).Thesixthgroupconsistedofadvertisingeffect

variables,andspecificallyconsumers’campaigninvolvement(CI)andthecampaigneffect

(CE).Campaigninvolvementwasassessedviatwovariables:campaignattitude(CA)and

campaignbehavior(CB).Finally,thecampaigneffectwasdeterminedviatheelementsof

campaigneffectattitude(CEA)andcampaigneffectbehavior(CEB).

31

Table5.1:group1personalattributes

Concept Operationalization Coding Variable

type/range

PA Age

Whatisyourage?

Listofpossibleagesfrom16-40

years-old

Interval/

Ratio

PA Gender

Whatisyourgender?

1. Male

2. Female

Nominal

PA Educationlevel

Whatisyourhighest

levelofeducation?

1. Basisschool/elementary

School

2. Middelbareschool/high

School

3. MBO/communitycollege

4. HBO/appliedscience

5. WO/university

Ordinal

PA

Employmentstatus 1. Employed

2. Student

3. Unemployed

Nominal

32

Table5.2:group2fashionInvolvement

Concept Operationalization Coding Variable

type/range

FA Fashion-Importance(FA)

Howimportantisfashiontoyouona

scalefrom0-10?

Scale0-10 Interval/

Ratio

WP Willingnesstopayfornon-sustainable

jeans(WP-S-Jeans)

Open Interval/

Ratio

WP Willingnesstopayfornon-sustainable

jeans(WP-N-Jeans)

Open Interval/

Ratio

WP Differencewillingnesstopayfor

sustainablejeans(DWP)

WPSJeans–WPNjeans(in€)

FB Monthlyfashionexpenses(FB)

Howmuchdoyouspendonfashion-

relateditemspermonth?

Open Interval/

Ratio

FB Shoppingfrequency

Howoftendoyoushop?

1. Onceayear

2. Twiceayear

3. Onceeverythreemonths

4. Onceamonth

5. Onceaweek

6. Morethanonceaweek

Ordinal

FI

Eco-FashionInvolvement

𝐹𝐼 =𝐹𝐴 + 0,01 𝐹𝐵

2

Scale0-10

Interval/

Ratio

33

Table5.3:group3environmentalinvolvement

Concept Operationalization Coding Variable

type/range

EA Environmentalimportance(EA)

Scale0-10 Interval/Ratio

EB Environmentalactions

Whatkindofactionsdoyoutaketo

bemoreenvironmentallyfriendly

(moreanswerspossible)?

1. None.Idon’ttakeany

environmentalactionsto

becomemoresustainable.

2. Waste-related:Iseparate

mywaste.

3. Food-related:Ieatorganic

products.

4. Ilimitmyoverall

consumptionandonlyuse

whatIneed.

5. Ilimitmyuseofresources

(water/gas/electricity).

6. Transportation:Itakepublic

transportationorcycle.

Nominal

EB Totalnumberofenvironmental

actionsselectedfortheprevious

variable.(EB)

Scale0-5 Interval/Ratio

EI Eco-FashionInvolvement

𝐸𝐼 =𝐸𝐴 + 2(𝐸𝐵)

2

Scale0-10 Interval/ratio

34

Table5.3:group4eco-fashioninvolvement

Concept Operationalization Coding Variable

type/range

EFA Eco-fashionimportance(EFA)

Scale0-10 Nominal

WP Willingnesstopayfor

sustainablejeans.

Open Interval/

Ratio

WP Willingnesstopayfora

sustainableT-shirt

Open Interval/

Ratio

EFB Environmentalactions

Whatkindofactionsdoyoutake

tobemoreenvironmentally

friendly(moreanswerspossible)

1. None.Idon'ttakeenvironmental

actionstobecomemore

sustainable

2. IrecycleclothingthatIhave

discarded(e.g.,bybringingthem

toarecyclingpointorselling

themsecond-hand)

3. Ibuymoreenvironmentally

friendlyclothes(e.g.Second-

handproductsandsustainable

brands)

4. Ihaveexpandedthelengthof

timethatIusemyclothesmyself

(e.g.,repairs,fitalterations,

dyeing,repurposingthefabric)

Nominal

EFB Totalnumberofeco-fashion

actionsselectedfortheprevious

variable(EFB)

Scale0-3 Interval/

Ratio

EFI Eco-FashionInvolvement

𝐸𝐹𝐼 =𝐸𝐹𝐴 + 0,3(𝐸𝐹𝐵)

2

Scale0-10 Interval/ratio

35

Table5.4:group5:brandinvolvement

Concept Operationalization Coding Variable

type/range

BA Brandattitude(BA)

HowmuchdoyoulikeG-Starasa

brand?

Scale0-10 Nominal

BB Brandexpenses(BB)

Howmuchmoney(in€)didyou

spendonG-Staritemslastyear?

Open Interval/

Ratio

36

Table5.5:group6campaigninvolvement/campaigneffect

Group6a:campaigninvolvement

Concept Operationalization Coding Variable

type/range

CA CampaignattitudeCA)

HowmuchdoyouliketheRawfor

theOceancampaign?

Scale0-10 Nominal

CA CampaignMessage

Themessageofthecampaignis

clear.

5-pointLikertscale.

Stronglydisagree-stronglyagree

Ordinal

CB Campaignpurchases(CB)

Howmuchdidyouspend(in€)on

itemsfromthecampaign.

Open Interval/

Ratio

Group6b:campaigneffect

CEA Changeinbrandattitude

Statement:Duetothecampaign,I

likeG-Starmoreasabrand.

5-pointLikertscale.

Stronglydisagree-stronglyagree

Interval/

Ratio

CEA Changeinenvironmentalattitude

Duetothecampaign,Ifind

environmentalsustainabilitymore

important.

5-pointLikertscale.

Stronglydisagree–stronglyagree

Ordinal

CEA Awarenessofplasticbottles

problem

DuetothecampaignI'mmore

5-pointLikertscale.

Stronglydisagree-stronglyagree

Ordinal

37

5.2.1Involvementvariables

Theinvolvementvariablesformodeltwowerecalculatedonthebasisoftheattitudeand

behaviorvariables.Theseinvolvementvariableswerethesumoftheattitudevariableand

behaviorvariable.However,theattitude-relatedvariablesweremeasuredona0-10scale,

andwhilethebehavioralvariablesemployedseveraldifferentscales.BothvariablesAttitude

andBehaviorareconsideredequallyimportantandthereforebothvariablesneedtousethe

samescalebeforetheycanbeaddeduptogether.“Theeasiestandmostobviousmethodof

estimation,andconsequentlytheonethatisprobablymostwidelyused,isasimple

proportionaltransformation”.Thisapproachinvolvesmultiplyingscalewithaproportion

MaximumNew/MaximumOld(Colman,1997,p.336).

𝑉𝑛𝑒𝑤 =𝑀𝑎𝑥𝑁𝑒𝑤 −𝑀𝑖𝑛𝑁𝑒𝑤𝑀𝑎𝑥𝑂𝑙𝑑 −𝑀𝑖𝑛𝑂𝑙𝑑 ∙ 𝑣 − 𝑀𝑖𝑛𝑂𝑙𝑑 +𝑀𝑖𝑛𝑁𝑒𝑤

Fashioninvolvement

Thefashioninvolvementvariabledemonstratedthelevelofimportancethatconsumers

assignedtofashionandtheamountofmoney(in€)thattheyspentpermonthonfashion-

relateditems.Itwascalculatedasfollows:

𝐹𝐼 =𝐹𝐴 + 0,01 𝐹𝐵

2

awareoftheproblemswith

plasticbottlesintheocean.

CEB

Changesinenvironmentalactions

Hasthecampaignchangedthe

actionsthatyoutaketobemore

environmentallyfriendly?

1. Yes

2. No

Dichotomous

38

Environmentalinvolvement

Theenvironmentalinvolvementvariableindicatedthelevelofimportancethatconsumers

gavetoenvironmentalsustainabilityandthenumberofactionsthattheyhadtakentolive

moreenvironmentallyfriendlylives.Thus,thisfactorwascomputedasbelow:

𝐸𝐼 =𝐸𝐴 + 2(𝐸𝐵)

2

Eco-fashioninvolvement

Theeco-fashioninvolvementvariableoutlinedtheimportancethatconsumersgaveto

sustainableproductionandconsumptioninthefashionindustry.Italsoreflectedthe

numberofsustainableactionsthatconsumersperformedtomaketheirfashion

consumptionmoreenvironmentallyfriendly.Thus,thisfactorwascomputedasbelow:

𝐸𝐹𝐼 =𝐸𝐹𝐴 + 0,3(𝐸𝐹𝐴)

2

39

5.3Hypothesisdevelopment

Thissectiondescribeshowthehypothesestestedinthisresearchprojectwereformulated.

Asmentionedintheliteraturereview,previousstudieshavenotclearlydistinguished

betweenenvironmentalinvolvementandeco-fashioninvolvement.However,severalstudies

haveclaimedthatsustainablefashionconsciousnessandsustainableconsciousnessinother

sectorsarenotthesame(Chan&Wong,2012).However,researchershaveprovidedfew

analysescomparingenvironmentalinvolvementandeco-fashioninvolvement(Chan&Wong,

2012).Severalstudieshavefailedtoclearlydistinguishbetweenthetwo.Therefore,itis

evenhighlyrelevanttotestwhetherenvironmentalattitudeandeco-fashionattitudediffer

fromeachother.Onthatbasis,thefollowinghypothesiswasdeveloped:

H1:Consumers’environmentalattitudeisnotsimilartotheireco-fashion

involvement.

5.3.1Environmental,eco-fashion,andfashioninvolvement

Chan(1999)hasstatedthatenvironmentallyconsciousconsumerstendtobebetter

educatedandtohaveahighereconomicstatusandincome.However,dataonconsumers’

educationlevelandincomewerenotusefulinthiscontext.Duetothewideagerange,the

sampleincludednumerousuniversitystudentsandhigh-schoolstudentsstillsupportedby

theirparents.Therefore,theyearlyincomeisnotatruerepresentationoftheperson’s

yearlybudget.EducationlevelisusedbyChan(2012)tomakearankbetweenconsumer’s

socialstatus.Thehighschoolstudentsintheagegroup16-20yearsold,didnothavethe

opportunitytoeducatedthemselvesfurthersothereforeeducationlevelisnotagood

indicatorforthisstudy.Thus,thosetwovariableswereexcludedfromtheanalysis.

Onthatbasis,thefollowinghypothesesweredeveloped:

H2:Consumerswhoarefemale,youngerandhighlyfashionandenvironmentalare

alsohighlyeco-fashioninvolved.

H3:Consumerswhoarefemale,youngerandhighlyfashioninvolvedand

environmentalinvolvementscalearealsohighlyeco-fashioninvolved

40

AccordingtoO’CassandChoy(2008),highlyfashioninvolvedindividualsarewillingto

payapremiumpriceforsustainableproducts.However,thehigherpriceforsustainable

fashionisoftenaproblemforconsumerswhenitcomestopurchasingsustainableclothes.

Nonetheless,itseemsthatpeoplewhoaremorefashioninvolvedarewillingtopayahigher

priceforluxurygoods.Furthermore,environmentallyresponsibleconsumersareoften

willingtopayapremiumforeco-productstoprotecttheenvironment(Ferraroetal.,2005).

Moreover,differencesinwillingnesstopayalsohavebeenfoundtoexistbetweenthesexes.

Menarewillingtopaylessforsustainableproductsthanarewomen.Onthatbasis,the

followinghypothesesweredeveloped:

H4:Consumerswhoarefemaleandscorehigheronfashion,environmentalandeco-

fashionattitudearealsowillingtospendmoremoney(in€)on

sustainablefashion.

Findingsfrommultiplestudiessuggestthatanindividual’sconcernforthe

environmentmayinfluencedecisionsrelatedtoapparelconsumption,includingproduct

purchase,productdisposal,andstorepatronage(Leeetal.,2012).Therefore,thefollowing

hypothesiswasdeveloped:

H5:Consumerswhofindenvironmentalsustainabilityandeco-fashionhighly

importantperformalsomoreenvironmentalandeco-fashionactions.

5.3.2Brandinvolvement

Brandimageisanimportantindicatorofacampaign’ssuccess,sincepeopleassociatethe

brand’svalueswithindividualinitiatives(Bao,Shao&Rivers,2008).Actualorexpected

consumerexperienceswithabrandarealsoessential,sinceclothinghasnotonlya

functionalvaluebutalsoanemotionalone(deChernatony,2009).Furthermore,Kim,

Forney,andArnold(1997)haveclaimedthatconsumerswhofindenvironmental

sustainabilityimportanthaveamorepositiveattitudetowardsgreenfashionmarketing

campaigns.Therefore,thefollowinghypothesiswascreated:

H6:Consumerswhofindfashionhighlyimportanthaveamorepositive attitude

towardsthebrand.

41

H7:Consumerswhofindenvironmental,eco-fashionandpositiveattitudetowards

thebrandG-Starhaveamorepositiveattitudetowardsthecampaign.

5.4Researchmodels

Thefirstmodel(model1)analyzedtherelationshipbetweenattitudeandbehaviorfor

fashioninvolvement,environmentalinvolvement,eco-fashioninvolvement,andbrand

involvement.Thesecondmodel(model2)examinedtherelationshipbetweenfashion

attitude,environmentalattitude,andeco-fashionattitude.This,modelalsoanalyzedthe

relationshipbetweenfashioninvolvement,environmentalinvolvement,andeco-fashion

involvement.Furthermore,analysesthismodelalsotherelationshipbetweenfashionand

brandattitude.Thethirdmodel(model3)measuredtherelationshipbetween

environmentalattitude,eco-fashionattitude,brandattitude,andcampaignattitude.

42

5.4.1Model1:Attitudeandbehavior

Figure1avisualizestheimplicationoftheliteraturethatone’sattitudeinfluenceshisorher

behavioronwhichmodeloneisbuilt.Figure1bvisualizestherelationbetween

environmental,eco-fashionandfashionattitudebetweenwillingnesstopayforthismodel

Figure1aAttitudebehaviormodel

Table5.7showsthevariablestakenintoaccountfortheattitudebehaviormodel.

Thecorrelationsbetweenfashion,environmentalandeco-fashionattitude,genderandage

asindependentsandfashion,environmental,eco-fashionbehaviorandDWPjeansas

dependentvariablesweremeasuredinseveralregressionanalyzes.

Figure1bWillingnesstopay

43

Table5.7:model1attitudeandbehavior

Concept

Operationalization

Coding

Variable

type/range

Dependentvariables

FB

Fashionbehavior-money

Onaverage,howmuchdo

youspendonfashion-

relateditemspermonth?

Open(amountofmoneyspentin€)

Interval/

ratio

EB

Totalnumberof

environmentalactions(EB).

Scalefrom0-10(extremelyuninvolvedto

extremelyinvolvedbehavior)

Interval/

ratio

EFB

Totalnumberofeco-fashion

actions(EB).

Scalefrom0-10(extremelyuninvolvedto

extremelyinvolvedbehavior)

Interval/ratio

DWPJEANS

Differenceinwillingnessto

payforasustainable

comparedtoanon-

sustainablejeans

(DWPJEANS)

Open(in€)

Interval/ratio

BB

Howmuchdidyouspendon

G-starpurchaseslastyear?

Open(in€)

Interval/

ratio

44

independentvariables

FA

Fashionattitude(FA)

Howimportantisfashionto

you?

Scalefrom0-10(extremelyunimportant-

extremelyimportant)

Interval/

Ratio

EA Environmentalattitude(EA)

Howimportantis

environmentalsustainability

toyou?

Scalefrom0-10(extremelyunimportant-

extremelyimportant)

Interval/

Ratio

EFA Eco-fashionattitude(EFA)

Howimportantis

sustainabilityinthefashion

industrytoyou?

Scalefrom0-10(extremelyunimportant-

extremelyimportant)

Interval/

Ratio

BA Brandattitude

HowmuchdoyoulikeG-Star

asabrand?

Scale0-10(extremedislike-extremelike) Interval/

Ratio

Gender

Whatisyourgender?

1. Male

2. Female

Interval/

ratio

Age

Whatisyourage?

Listofpossibleagesfrom16-40years-old

Interval/ratio

45

5.4.2Model2:Eco-fashionattitude/involvementandBrandattitude

Thesecondmodelvisualizedinfigure2ameasuredtherelationbetweenthefashionand

attitude/involvementandtheenvironmentalattitude/involvementasindependent

variablesandeco-fashionattitude/involvement.Furthermore,thismodelmeasuredthe

relationbetweenthefashionattitudeasindependentvariableandthebrandattitudeas

dependentvariable,whichisvisualizedinfigure2b.Table5.8showsallthevariablesused

forthismodel.

Figure2aEco-fashionattitudeandinvolvementmodel

Table5.8:modeleco-fashionattitudeandinvolvement

Concept Operationalization Coding Variable

type/range

Dependentvariable

EFA Eco-fashionattitude(EFA)

Howimportantdoyoufind

sustainabilityinthefashion

industry?

Scalefrom0-10(extremelyunimportant-

extremelyimportant)

Interval/Ratio

BA Brandattitude(BA)

Scalefrom0-10(extremedislike-extreme

like)

Interval/Ratio

46

HowmuchdoyoulikeG-Star

asabrand?

EFI EFA+3.33(EFB) Scalefrom0-20(extremelyuninvolved-

extremelyinvolved)

Interval/Ratio

independentvariables

EA

Environmentalattitude(EA)

Howimportantis

environmentalsustainability

toyou?

Scalefrom0-10(extremelyuninvolved-

extremelyinvolved)

Interval/ratio

FA

Fashionattitude(FA)

Howimportantis

environmentalsustainability

toyou?

Scalefrom0-10(extremelyimportant-

extremelyunimportant)

Interval/ratio

EI

EA+2(EB)

Scalefrom0-20(extremelyuninvolved-

extremelyinvolved)

Interval/ratio

Gender

Whatisyourgender?

1. Male

2. Female

Interval/ratio

Age

Whatisyourage?

Listofpossibleagesfrom16-40years-old

Interval/ratio

47

5.4.3Model3:CampaignAttitude

Figurethreevisualizesthecampaignattitudemodelandhowalltheinfluentialfactorsrelate

toeachother.Table9showsthatthemodelmeasuredthecorrelationsamong

environmentalattitude,eco-fashionattitude,andbrandattitude(independentvariables)

andcampaigneffect(dependentvariable)inregressionanalyses.Thereasonthismodelonly

consistedoftheattitudinalvariableswasthatonly16%oftherespondentshadpurchaseda

G-Stariteminthelastyear,whileonly13%oftherespondentsfamiliarwiththecampaign

hadboughtsomethingfromtheRawfortheOceancollection.Ifthebehavioralvariableshad

beenincluded,falsecorrelationswouldhaveemerged.

Figure3:ModelofCampaignAttitude

48

Table5.9:variablesmodel3campaignattitude

Concept Operationalization Coding Variabletype/range

Dependentvariable

CA

Campaignattitude

Howmuchdoyoulike

thecampaign?

Scalefrom0-10

(extremedislikeextreme

like)

Interval/

Ratio

Independentvariables

EA

Environmentalattitude

Howimportantis

environmental

sustainabilitytoyou?

Scalefrom0-10

(extremedislikeextreme

like)

Interval/ratio

EFA

Eco-fashionattitude

Howimportantis

sustainabilitytoyou?

Scalefrom0-10

(extremelyuninvolved-

extremelyinvolved)

Interval/ratio

BA

Brandattitude

HowmuchdoyoulikeG-

Starasabrand?

Scalefrom0-10

(extremedislikeextreme

like)

Interval/ratio

49

5.5ValidityandReliability

Averysmallsampleentailstheriskofoverfittingthemodel.Theruleforlogisticregressions

istouse10casesforeachvariable.Forthisstudy’ssample(N=167),themaximumsuggested

numberofvariablesthuswas16.Inthefinalmodels30variableswereused.Thisfigure

exceededtheadvisedmaximumandthereforemighthaveresultedintheoverfittingofthe

model.However,itwouldnotbepossibletocarryoutthisstudyusingfewervariables.

Furthermore,indexingalsomulticollinearityproblem,whichisnotaconcern,sincethere

werenosignificantcorrelations(>0.9)detectedforthevariables(Field,2013).

Duetothesmallsamplesize,outliersposedariskwhenperformingtheregression

analyses.Therefore,thevariables’z-valueswerecalculated.Followingthez-scoresshould

notexceed3.29.However,onoccasionswhenthiswasthecase,thescorewasreplacedby

thesumofthesamplemeanandthreetimesthestandarddeviation(Field,2013).

Table5.10:CorrelationCoefficientsoftheRegressionModelVariables

Age Gender Wpay

Jeans

FA EA EFA FI EI EFI BA CA

Age 1.00

Gender 0.20 1.00

DWP

Jeans

0.41 -0.21 1.00

FA -0.01 -0.14 0.13 1.00

EA -0.08 -0.11 0.29 -0.01 1.00

EFA 0.17 -0.09 0.49 -0.02 0.76 1.00

FI 0.20 -0.13 0.29 0.77 .044 .06 1

EI -0.01 -0.08 0.29 -0.07 0.70 0.56 0.04 1.00

EFI 0.14 0.08 0.07 0.08 -0.26 0.56 0.56 0.74 1.00

BA -0.02 0.04 0.01 0.46 0.17 0.16 0.32 0.05 -0.12 1.00

CA -0.22 0.18 0.03 0.17 0.27 0.10 0.06 0.36 0.18 0.18 1.00

50

VI.Results

Thischapterprovidesanoverviewofthestatisticalfindings.Datawascollectedandcodedin

accordancewiththemanualexplainedinthepreviouschapter.Thestructureofthechapter

isasfollows.First,descriptivestatisticswereanalyzed.Secondpartincludestheresultsof

theregressionanalysesoftheattitudeandbehaviormodel.Thethirdpartelaboratesonthe

differencesbetweenenvironmentalinvolvementandeco-fashioninvolvement.Thefourth

sectiondiscussestheregressionanalysesoftheeco-fashioninvolvementmodel.Thefifth

partprovidesinsightinmodelcampaigninvolvementmodelandthecampaigneffectson

consumers.

6.1Descriptivestatistics

Thefollowingsectiondescribesthemainpointregardingthedescriptivestatisticsforthe

groups:demographics,fashioninvolvement,environmentalinvolvement,eco-fashion

involvement,brandinvolvement,andcampaigninvolvementandeffect.

51

Table6.1Descriptivestatistics

N Minimum Maximum Mean Median Mode Std.Dev.

Age 167 16.00 40.00 25.60 27.00 27.00 6.29

FA 167 2.00 10.00 6.87 7.00 7.00 1.61

FB(€) 166 0.00 800.00 120.72 100.00 100.00 110.56

EA 167 1.00 8.00 7.58 8.00 8.00 1.55

EB 167 0.00 5.00 2.50 3.00 3.00 1.20

EFA 167 0.00 10.00 6.98 7.00 7.00 1.98

FB 167 0.00 3.00 1.57 2.00 1.00 0.93

WPNJeans(€) 167 0.00 250.00 66.00 60.00 50.00 40.94

WPSJeans(€) 167 10.00 350.00 89.88 80.00 100.00 48.80

DWPJeans(€) 167 0.00 160.00 25.40 20.00 0.00 30.11

BA 163 1.00 10.00 6.41 7.00 7.00 1.51

BB 26 0.00 450.00 25.78 0.00 0.00 77.97

CA 48 5.00 10.00 8.17 8.00 8.00 1.40

CB(€) 48 0.00 159.00 100.00 100.00 0.00

FI(0-10) 166 3.00 17.00 8.86 9.00 9.00 2.42

EI(0-10) 167 3.00 20.00 12.59 13.00 14.00 3.23

EFI(0-10) 167 0.00 20.00 12.23 12.66 13.67 4.16

6.1.1Demographics

Thesampleconsistsof167respondentsaged16to40years-old,wholivedinThe

NetherlandswhilethecampaignRawfortheOceanCampaignfromG-Starwasrunning,

whichwasbetweenAugust2014andAugust2016.Therespondents’genderis67.70%

femaleand32.20%male.Thisunevendistributioncaninfluencetheaveragescoreofthe

groupsenvironmentalinvolvementandeco-fashioninvolvement,sinceseveralauthors

arguethatwomenaremoreenvironmentalsustainableinvolvedcomparedtomen.

Furthermore,theyseemtobewillingtopaymoreforsustainablefashionthanmen.

52

Table6.2FrequencyofAgeGroups

AgeGroups

Frequency Percent ValidPercent Cumulative

Percent

Valid

16-20 43 25.70 25.70 25.70

21-25 32 19.20 19.20 80.20

26-30 59 35.30 35.30 93.41

31-35 22 13.20 13.20 100.00

36-40 11 6.60 6.60

Total 164 100.00 100.00

Intable6.2theresultofthefrequencyanalysisoftheparticipants’ageshowsthat

themajorityoftheparticipantsarebetween26and30yearsold(59,35.30%)andquite

equaldistributedovertheagegroups.Exceptformtheoldestagegroup,whichonlyconsists

ofasmallpartoftheparticipants(11,6.60%).Theresultintable6.1showsthattheaverage

ageoftheparticipantsis26yearsold,withastandarddeviationof6years.

Theemploymentstatusconsistsof56.90%employedrespondents,38.30%arestudentsand

4.80%unemployedrespondents.

Table6.3EducationLevel

AgeGroups Frequency Percent Valid

Percent

Cumulative

Percent

Valid

MiddleSchool 1 0.60 0.60 0.60

HighSchool 45 26.90 26.90 27.50

MBO/Community

College

11 36.60 36.60 34.10

AppliedSience 38 22.80 22.80 56.90

University 72 43.10 43.10 100.00

Total 167 100.00 100.00

53

Intable6.3theresultofthefrequencyanalysisoftheparticipant’seducationlevel

showsthatthemajorityoftheparticipantspossessauniversitydegree(72,41.10%).

Anotherlargeamountofrespondentsarehighschoolstudents(27.50%).Thisisduetothe

factthattheagegroupbetween16and20yearsoldisratherlarge(43,25.70%).

6.1.2Fashioninvolvement

Thefashioninvolvementconsistsofthefashionattitudeandfashionbehaviorvariables.The

variablefashionattitudemeasureshowimportantconsumersfindfashiononascalefrom0-

10.Thevariablesfashionbehaviorismeasuredbythevariableshoppingfrequency,which

measureshowoftenrespondentsgoshoppingforfashion-relateditems,andmonthly

shoppingexpenses,whichmeasureshowmuchrespondentsspendpermonthonfashion-

relateditems.

Table6.4FashionAttitude

Fashion

Importance

Frequency Percent Valid

Percent

Cumulative

Percent

Valid

0 0 0.00 0.00 0.00

1 0 0.00 0.00 0.00

2 2 1.20 1.20 1.20

3 8 4.80 4.80 6.00

4 8 4.80 4.80 10.80

5 9 5.40 5.40 16.20

6 21 12.60 12.60 28.70

7 54 32.30 32.30 61.10

8 50 29.90 29.90 91.00

9 12 7.20 7.20 98.20

10 3 1.80 1.80 100.00

Total 167 100.00 100.00

Table6.4displaystheresultofthefrequencyanalysisoffashionattitude,which

includestheimportanceoffashion.Itshowsthatthetwolargestgroupsarerespondents

whoscoreda7(54,32.30%)andan8(50,29.90%)onascalefrom0-10.16.20%ofall

respondentshaveamorenegativeattitudeandgradetheimportanceoffashionbelowa6.

54

Theresultsintable6.1showthatconsumersscorea6.87onaverageonhowimportant

fashionistothem.Inconclusion,itcanbesaidthattherespondentsinthissamplefind

fashionimportant.

Table6.5,whichdisplaystheresultofthefrequencyanalysisofthemonthlyshopping

expenses,showsthatthemajorityspendsbetween€0.00-€100.00permonth.Almostallof

therespondents(96.40%)spendlessthan€300.00permonth.Only4.60%ofthe

respondentsspendsbetweenthe€300.00-€800.00onfashion-relateditemspermonth,with

amaximumof€800.00permonth(1,0.60%)spendonfashionrelateditemspermonth.The

resultsintable6.1showthattherespondentsspend€120.00permonthonaverage,with

standarddeviationof€110.56.Theshoppingfrequencyofmostrespondentsisonceevery

month(74,44.30%)andonceeverythreemonths(31.70%),14.40%shoptwiceayearorless

and9.60%shoponceaweekormore.

Table6.5Monthlyexpenses

Fashion

Attitude

Frequency Percent Valid

Percent

Cumulative

Percent

Valid

0-100 114 68,30 68.70 68.70

100-200 28 16.80 16.90 85.50

200-300 18 10.80 10.80 96.40

300-400 3 1.80 2.40 98.20

400-500 1 0.60 0.60 98.80

500-600 1 0.60 0.60 97.40

600-700 0 0.00 0.00 97.40

700-800 1 0.60 0.60 100.00

Total 166 99,40 100,0

55

6.1.3Environmentalinvolvement

Theenvironmentalinvolvementconsistsoftheenvironmentalattitudeandenvironmental

behaviorvariables.Thevariableenvironmentalattitudemeasureshowimportantconsumers

findenvironmentsustainabilityonascalefrom0-10.Thevariablesenvironmentalbehavior

bythetotalnumberofsustainableactionsapersontakesandthewhatkindofactionsa

persontakes.

Table6.6EnvironmentalAttitude

Environmental

Importance

Frequency Percent Valid

Percent

Cumulative

Percent

Valid

0 0 0.00 0.00 0.00

1 1 0.60 0.60 1.20

2 0 0.00 0.00 1.20

3 2 1.20 1.20 1.80

4 2 1.20 1.20 3.00

5 13 7.80 7.80 10.80

6 15 9.00 9.00 19.80

7 34 20.40 20.40 40.10

8 55 32.90 32.90 73.10

9 32 19.20 19.20 92.20

10 13 7.80 7.80 100.00

Total 167 100,00 100.00

Table6.6showstheresultofthefrequencyanalysisofrespondents’environmental

attitude,whichmeasureshowimportantenvironmentalsustainabilityisconsideredbythe

respondentsonascalefrom0-10.Themodeisan8(55,32.90%),followedbyascoreof7

(34,20.40%)andascoreof9(32,19.20%)asthesecondandthirdlargestgroup.Including

thescoreof10itmeansthat80.30%oftherespondentsscored7orhigher.Therefore,itcan

besaidthatmillennialsarestronglyenvironmentalinvolved,whichconfirmsthestatements

ofSmith(2010)regardingmillennials’attitudetowardsenvironmentalsustainability.Table

6.1showsthatthemeanis7.58,withastandarddeviationof1.55.

56

Table6.7TotalnumberofEnvironmentalBehavior

Numberof

Actions

Frequency Percent ValidPercent Cumulative

Percent

Valid

0 8 4.8 4.8 4.8

1 27 16.2 16.2 21.0

2 46 27.5 27.5 48.5

3 51 30.5 30.5 79.0

4 29 17.4 17.4 96.4

5 6 3.6 3.6 100.0

Total 167 100.0 100.0

Table17pointsouttheresultofthefrequencyanalysisofthetotalnumbersof

respondents’environmentalsustainableactionsintermsofenvironmentalsustainable

actionstheytake.Mostrespondentsperformedtwo(27.50%)orthree(30.50%)ofthefive

sustainableactions.Thescoreofthelowestnumberofactions‘zero’(8,4.80%)andthe

highestnumberofactions‘five’(6,3.60%)scorequitesimilar.

Table18frequencyactionstaken

Actions Frequency Percent

Valid

None 2 1.2

Wasteseparation 113 68.1

Consumerorganicfood 41 24.6

Limitoverallconsumption 78 46.70

Limitusewater/gas/

electricity

29 47.90

Transportation 109 65.30

Table6.8displaystheresultsofdistributionofthenumberofactionsdividedover

theseveralcategories.Themostlyengagedsustainableactionis‘wasteseparation’

(112,68.10%)andtransportationchoice(109,65.30%).However,onemustnotethatthe

57

highscoreoftheaction“transportation”isprobablyduetothelargenumberofstudents,

whoarenotallowedtodriveorcannotaffordothertransportationbesidescyclingorpublic

transportationonaregularbasis.InanurbanarealikeAmsterdam,whichiswhere80.00%

oftherespondentslive,cyclingorpublictransportationisthefastest,easiestandcheapest

waytogetaround.Therefore,therespondentsuseabikeoutofpracticalreasonsinsteadof

environmentalconcerns.Theaction,whichscoredthelowest(24,60%)istheconsumption

oforganicfood.Thereasonforthislowscoremightpossiblybethatpeopledonotwantto

sacrificepersonalneedsasmentionedinchapter2inordertobemoresustainable,

especiallystudentswhoarelivingonabudgetanyway.

6.1.4Eco-fashioninvolvement

Theeco-fashioninvolvementconsistsoftheeco-fashionattitudeandenvironmental

behaviorvariables.Thevariableenvironmentalattitudemeasureshowimportantconsumers

findsustainableproducedfashiononascalefrom0-10.Thevariableseco-fashionbehavior

bythetotalnumberofsustainableactionsapersontakesandthewhatkindofactionsa

persontakes.

Table6.9Eco-FashionAttitude

Eco-

Fashion

Importance

Frequency Percent Valid

Percent

Cumulative

Percent

Valid

0 3 1.80 1.80 1.80

1 0 0.00 0.00 1.20

2 4 2.40 2.40 4.20

3 1 0.60 0.60 4.80

4 5 3.00 3.00 7.80

5 14 8.40 8.40 16.20

6 32 19.20 19.20 35.30

7 44 26.30 26.30 61.70

8 29 17.40 17.40 79.00

9 18 10.80 10.80 89.80

10 17 10.20 10.20 100.00

Total 167 100.00 100.0

58

Theresultofthefashioninvolvementintable6.9showsthatmostrespondentsscore

a5(58,34.90),followedbya4(43,25.90)and6(29,17.50%).Theresultsoftable6.9show

thatthelargestgroupofrespondentsgradetheimportanceofsustainabilityinthefashion

industrywitha7(44,26.30%)onascalefrom0-10,followedbya6(32,19.20%)andan8

(29,17.40%),asthesecondandthirdlargestgroup.Table6.1showsthatthemeanis6,98,

whichislowerthanthegradetherespondentsgivetheimportanceofenvironmental

sustainability.Inordertotestwhetherthisdifferenceissignificantanindependentsamplet-

testisperformedinthenextchapter.

Table6.10Totalnumberofeco-fashionactions

Numberof

Actions

Frequency Percent Valid

Percent

Cumulative

Percent

Valid

0 20 12.00 12.00 12.00

1 62 37.10 37.10 49.10

2 54 32.30 32.30 81.40

3 31 18.60 18.60 100.00

Total 167 100.00 100.00

Theresultsoftable6.10showthatthelargestgroupofrespondentsperform1eco-

fashionaction.Outof4sustainableactsthatweregiveninthesurvey,12.00%didnot

performanyactions,37.30%performed2sustainableactsand18.60%performed3acts.

Table6.11frequencyofeco-fashionactions

NumberofActions Frequency Percent

Valid

None 19 1.2

Recycle 124 74.70

Purchaseenvironmental

friendly

66 39.50

Expandthetimetowear

clothes

74 44.30

59

Theresultsintable6.11showsthatmostrespondents(124,74.70%)makesure,that

theclothestheydonotwearanymoreandwanttothrowout,endupinrecycling,by

bringingthemtospecialcontainers,givingthemawayorsellingthemonthe2ndhand

market.Thisresultisfollowedbyrespondents(74,44.30%),whoexpandthetimetheycan

usetheirclothes,byrepairing,changingordyingthem.Therespondents,whopurchase

environmentalfriendlyclothesbychoosingforsustainablebrandorbuyingsecondhand,

consistsof39,50%oftherespondents.Therespondentswhoperformnoeco-fashionactions

arethesmallestgroupandandconsistof19.00%.

Anotherwaytomeasureeco-fashionattitudeandbehavioratthesametimeisthe

willingnesstopayforsustainableclothes.Inordertomeasurethewillingnesstopaythe

respondentswereaskedwhattheyarewillingtopayforanon-sustainablejeansand

sustainablejeans.Table6.1showsthataveragewillingnesstopayis€66.17foranon

sustainablejeansand€89.88forasustainablejeans.

60

6.1.5Brandinvolvement

Thebrandinvolvementconsistsofthefashionbrandandfashionbehaviorvariable.The

variablebrandattitudemeasureshowmuchtheconsumerslikethebrandG-Staronascale

from0-10.Thevariablesbrandbehaviorismeasuredbytheamountofmoneythe

consumersspendonG-Starproductsthelastyear.

Table6.12BrandAttitude

Brand

Attitude

Frequency Percent Valid

Percent

Cumulative

Percent

Valid

0 0 0.00 0.00 0.00

1 1 0.60 0.60 0.60

2 3 1.80 1.80 2.50

3 3 1.80 1.80 4.30

4 8 4.80 4.90 9.20

5 22 13.20 13.50 22.70

6 42 25.10 25.80 48.50

7 45 26.90 27.60 76.10

8 32 19.20 19.60 95.70

9 6 3.60 3.70 99.40

10 1 0.60 0.60 100.00

Total 163 97.60 100.0

Fromthealltherespondentsinthesamplewas97,60%oftherespondentswere

familiarwiththebrandG-Star,thereforeitcanbesaidthatG-Starisaverywellknown

brand.Table12showthatmostrespondentsscorea7(45,27.60%)ora6(42,25.80%)for

brandattitude.Table6.1showsthattheaveragebrandattitudeis6,41.Therefore,itcanbe

saidthatG-Starisnotverypopular,butalsonotveryunpopularforthepeopleinthis

sample.

Thebrandbehaviorinthissampleisverylow,sinceonly11.98%hasboughtG-Star

itemsoverthelastyear.ThoserespondentswhopurchasedG-Staritemsspent€200.00on

averageonG-theseitems,withastandarddeviationof108.97.Thelowestamountofmoney

spentis€50.00andthehighestamountofmoneyspentis€450.00.

61

6.1.6Campaigninvolvement

Thecampaigninvolvementismeasuredbycampaignattitudeandbehavior.Thevariable

campaignattitudemeasureshowmuchtheconsumersliketheRawfortheOceancampaign.

Thevariablecampaignbehaviorismeasuredbytheamountofmoneytheconsumersspend

onproductsfromtheRawfortheOceancampaign.

Table6.13CampaignAttitude

Campaign

Attitude

Frequency Percent Valid

Percent

Cumulative

Percent

Valid

0 0 0.00 0.00 0.00

1 0 0.00 0.00 0.00

2 0 0.00 0.00 0.00

3 0 0.00 0.00 0.00

4 0 0.00 0.00 0.00

5 2 4.20 4.20 4.20

6 6 12.50 12.50 16.70

7 0 0.00 0.00 16.70

8 27 56.30 56.30 72.90

9 0 0.00 0.00 0.00

10 13 27.10 27.10 100.00

Total 48 100,00 100.00

Table6.13showthatthecampaignawarenesswasmeasured,only28.70%ofthe

respondentswasfamiliarwiththecampaign.However,thisgrouplikedthecampaignalot,

sincetheresultsintableshowthatmostpeoplegradethecampaignattitudean8(56.30,

32.90%),followedbya10(13,27.10%).Table6.1showsthattheaveragecampaignattitude

is8.17.

Thecampaignbehaviorofthecampaignislow,sinceonly16.70%oftherespondents

boughtanitemfromthecampaign,withanaverageexpenditureof€104.14,withastandard

deviationof€35.36.Thelowestamountofmoneyspentis€60.00andthehighestamount

ofmoneyspentis€159.00.

62

6.1.7Campaigneffect

Thecampaigneffectonconsumerswasmeasuredbythechangeinbrandattitude,changein

environmentalattitudeandchangeineco-fashionattitude.

Table6.14“DuetothecampaignIlikeG-Starmoreasabrand.”

BrandAttitude Frequency Percent ValidPercent Cumulative

Percent

Valid

Stronglydisagree 1 0,60 2,10 2,10

Disagree 6 3,60 12,50 14,60

Neitheragreenor

disagree

15 9,00 31,30 45,80

Agree 18 10,80 37,50 83,30

StronglyAgree 8 4,80 16,70 100,00

Total 48 28,70 100,00

Theresultsintable6.14showthat54.20%oftherespondentshadexperienceda

positiveincreaseoftheirbrandattitudeduetothecampaign,37.50%agreedwiththeposed

statementand16.70%stronglyagreed.Therefore,itcanbesaidthattheRawfortheOcean

campaignhasapositiveeffectonthebrandimage.

Table6.15“DuetothecampaignIfindsustainabilitymoreimportant.”

BrandAttitude Frequency Percent ValidPercent Cumulative

Percent

Valid

Stronglydisagree 1 0,60 2,10 2,10

Disagree 11 6,60 22,90 25,00

Neitheragreenor

disagree

24 14,40 50,00 75,00

Agree 11 6,60 22,90 97,90

StronglyAgree 1 0,60 2,10 100,00

Total 48 28,70 100,00

63

Theresultsintable6.15showthataquarter(12,25.00%)oftherespondentshad

experiencedapositiveincreaseoftheirenvironmentalattitudeduetothecampaign.Most

respondentsneitheragreenordisagree50.00%.Theenvironmentalbehaviorhasfornoneof

therespondentsbeenaffectedbythecampaign.

Table6.16CampaignDuetothecampaignIfindsustainablefashionmoreimportant

BrandAttitude Frequency Percent ValidPercent Cumulative

Percent

Valid

Stronglydisagree 2 1,20 4,30 4,30

Disagree 8 4,80 17,40 21,70

Neitheragreenor

disagree

17 10,20 37,00 58,70

Agree 16 9,60 34,80 93,50

StronglyAgree 3 1,80 6,50 100,00

Total 46 27,50 100,00

Theresultsintable6.16showthat40.30%oftherespondentshadexperienceda

positiveincreaseoftheireco-fashionattitudeduetothecampaign.Analmostequalnumber

ofrespondentsneitheragreesnordisagreeswiththestatementandtheeco-fashion

behaviorhasfornoneoftherespondentsbeenaffectedbythecampaign.

64

6.2Model1:AttitudeandBehavior

First,theattitudeandbehaviormodelutilizedaregressionanalysistoassesshowthe

respondents’attitudesinfluencedtheirbehavior.Thefirstpartinvolvedthevariablesfashion

attitudeandbehavior,whilethesecondpartmeasuredrespondents’environmental

attitudesandbehavior,thethirdparteco-fashionattitudeandbehavior,andthefourthpart

brandattitudeandbehavior.

6.2.1Fashionattitudeandfashionbehavior

Theregressionmodelintable6.17usingtheamountofmoney(in€)spentpermonthon

fashion-relateditemsasthedependentvariableandfashionattitudeastheindependent

variablewassignificant,F(1,164)=18,39,p<0.05.Thismodelwasthususefulforpredicting

theamountofmoney(in€)spenteachmonthonfashion-relateditems,butitspredictive

powerwasweak:Only10.10%ofthevarianceinmonthlyexpenditurescouldbepredicted

basedonfashionattitude(R2=0.10).FashionAttitude,b*=0.32,t=4.29,p<0.05,95%CI

[11.75,31.79].Foreachgradethefashionattitudeincreases,theestimatedmonetary

expenditureonfashion-relateditemsincreasedby€0.03.

Table6.17Regressionmodelpredictingfashionbehavior(N=166).

Fashionbehavior

Modelb*

CONSTANT

FA

-28.78

0.32

R2

F

0.10

18.39

Notes:Reportedeffectsarestandardized(Beta)coefficients.Levels~p<.05

65

6.2.2environmentalattitudeandenvironmentalbehavior

Theregressionmodelintable6.18employingthenumberofenvironmentallyoriented

actionsasthedependentvariableandenvironmentalattitudeastheindependentvariable

wassignificant,F(1,165)=18.80,p<0.05.Thisregressionmodelthushelpedtopredictthe

totalnumberenvironmentalactionsundertaken,butitspredictivepowerwasweak:10.20%

ofthevarianceintotalnumberenvironmentalactionsundertakencanbepredictedbased

ontheenvironmentalattitude(R2=0.10).Environmentalattitude,b*=0.32,t=4.34,p

<0.05,95%CI[0.23,0.60].Foreachgradetheenvironmentalattitudeincreases,the

estimatednumberofenvironmentalfriendlyactionsincreasedby0.15.

Table6.18Regressionmodelpredictingenvironmentalactions(N=166).

Environmentalbehavior

Modelb*

Constant

EA

6.55

0.32

R2

F

0.10

18.80

Notes:Reportedeffectsarestandardized(Beta)coefficients.Levels~p<.05

66

6.2.3Eco-fashionattitudeandeco-fashionbehavior

Theregressionmodelintable6.19treatingthenumberofenvironmentallyorientedactions

asthedependentvariableandenvironmentalattitudeastheindependentvariablewas

significant,F(1,165)=18.80,p<0.05.Theregressionmodelwasthususefulforpredicting

thenumberenvironmentalactions,butthepredictivepowerwasweak:10.20%ofthe

differencesinamountofmoneyspendcanbepredictedbasedonthefashionattitude(R2=

0.10).Eco-fashionattitude,b*=0.32,t=4.34,p<0.05,95%CI[0.08,0.22].Foreachgrade

theeco-fashionattitudeincreases,theestimatednumberofenvironmentalfriendlyactions

increasedby0.66.Concludingitcanbesaidthattheenvironmentalattitudeandbehavior

relatesimilartoeachotherastheEnvironmentalAttitude.

Table6.19Regressionmodelpredictingthenumberofeco-fashionactions(N=167).

Eco-fashionbehavior

Modelb*

Constant

EFA

0,50

0.32

R2

F

0.10

18.40

Notes:Reportedeffectsarestandardized(Beta)coefficients.Levels~p<.05

6.2.4Willingnesstopayforsustainablejeans.

Theregressionmodelintable6.20usingthedifference(in€)betweenrespondents’

willingnesstopayforsustainableversusnon-sustainablejeans(DWPjeans)asthedependent

variableandgender,age,fashionattitude,environmentalattitude,andeco-fashionattitude,

eco-asindependentvariableswassignificant,F(1,158)=4,26,p<0.05.Thus,thismodel

waspartiallyabletopredictthedifferencebetweenconsumers’willingnesstopay(in€)for

sustainablejeansversusnon-sustainablejeans.However,itspredictivepowerwasweak:

Only11.90%ofthismonetarydifferencecouldbepredictedbasedonfashionattitude(R2=

0.11).Gender,b*=-0.03,t=-0.43,p>0.05,95%.

67

Fashionattitude,b*=0.06,t=0.74,p>0.05,95%CI[-0.70,3.74].EnvironmentalAttitude,b*

=0,08,t=0.90,p>0.05,95%CI[-1.75,4.68]hadnosignificantcorrelation.Eco-fashion

attitude,b*=0,22,t=2.45,p<0.05,95%CI[0.65,6.00]hadamoderatecorrelation,while

agedemonstratedaweakassociation,b*=0,19,t=2.40,p<0.05,95%CI[0.15,1.58].For

everygradetheeco-fashionattitudeincreased,theanticipatedamountthatpeoplewould

bewillingtopaymoreforsustainablejeansversusnon-sustainablejeansgrewby€3.32.For

eachyearofage,theamountthattherespondentswereexpectedtobewillingtospendfor

sustainablejeansversusnon-sustainablejeansincreasedby€0.86.

Table6.20Regressionmodelpredictingdifferenceinwillingnesstopayforjeans(N=166).

Differenceinwillingness

topayforjeans

Modelb*

Constant

Gender

Age

FA

EA

EFA

-35.21

-0.03

0.19

0.06

0.08

0.22

R2

F

0.078

14.06

Notes:Reportedeffectsarestandardized(Beta)coefficients.Levels~p<.05

68

6.2.5Brandattitudeandbrandbehavior

Theregressionmodelintable6.21usedtheamountofmoneyspentinthepastyearonG-

Staritems(MF-Brand)asthedependentvariableandbrandattitudeastheindependent

variablewassignificant,F(1,161)=7.23,p<0.05.Thisregressionmodelwasthususefulfor

predictingthenumberenvironmentalactions,althoughitsexplanatorypowerwasweak:

Only4.30%ofthevarianceinmoneyspentonG-Starproductscouldbepredictedonthe

basisofbrandattitude(R2=0.04).Brandbehavior,b*=0.21,t=2.08,p<0.05,95%,CI[2.91,

19.02].Foreachgradethebrandattitudeincreases,theestimatedexpenditureonG-Star

productsincreasedby€10.96.

Table6.21Regressionmodelpredictingbrandbehavior(N=166).

Brandbehavior

Modelb*

Constant

BA

-43.97

10.97

R2

F

0.04

7.23

Notes:Reportedeffectsarestandardized(Beta)coefficients.Levels~p<.05

6.3Environmentalattitudevseco-fashionattitude

Thissectionprovidesaninsightinthefirstresearchquestionthataskswhetherthefactor

environmentalattitudeandeco-fashionattitudearesimilarandthereforecanbeone

variableinsteadoftwo,sincenotmanystudiesmakeacleardifferencebetweenthetwo

althoughtheystatethatthosefactorsaredifferentfromeachother.Theone-samplet-test

isperformedtocompareifthesamplemeansofenvironmentalattitudeandeco-fashion

attitudedifferfromeachother.Theenvironmentalattitudescoreddifferentintests(M=7.58

SD=1.55)comparedtowhatisconsideredingeneral,t(166)=5.02,p=0.00.The

environmentalattitudescoreddifferentintests(M=6.99SD=1.92)comparedtowhatis

consideredingeneral,t(166)=-3.95,p=0.00.Itcanbeconcludedthatthesamplemeansof

69

environmentalattitudeandeco-fashionattitudediffersignificantly.Therefore,isitnot

possibletocombineenvironmentalattitudeandeco-fashionattitude.

6.4Model2Eco-fashionattitudeandinvolvement

Thispartanalysestoanswerthesecondresearchquestion,whichaskstowhatextendthe

consumers’gender,age,fashionattitudeandenvironmentalattitude/involvementaffect

eco-fashionattitudeandinvolvement.

6.4.1:Eco-fashionattitude

Theregressionmodelintable6.22usingtheeco-fashionattitudescoreasthedependent

variableandfashionattitude,environmentalattitude,age,gender,educationlevel,and

incomeastheindependentvariableswassignificant,F(4,159)=19.41,p<0.05.The

regressionmodelwasthususefulforpredictingeco-fashionattitudebutitspredictivepower

wasmediocre:32.10%ofthevariancecouldbepredictedbasedonfashionattitude,

environmentalattitude,age,gender(R2=0.32).Fashioninvolvement,b*=0.19,t=2.91,p

<0.05,95%CI[0.079,0.41]hadasignificantcorrelationwitheco-fashioninvolvement.In

addition,bothgender,b*=0.19,t=2.81,p<0.05,95%CI[-0.44,-0.79]andage,b*=0.25,t

=2.51,p<0.05,95%CI[0.02,0.15]hadasignificantbutweakcorrelationwitheco-fashion

involvement.However,environmentalinvolvementhadasignificantandstrongcorrelation

witheco-fashioninvolvement.Environmentalinvolvement,b*=0.50,t=7.10,p<0.05,95%

CI[0.44,0.79].Foreachgradetheenvironmentalattitude,fashionattitudeandage

increased,theeco-fashionattitudeincreasedby0.62,0.24,0.08,and0.81,respectively.For

thefactorgendercanbesaidthattheeco-fashionattitudeis0.77higherthanformen.In

conclusion,highlyeco-fashioninvolvedindividualstendedtobefemale,older,andmore

interestedinenvironmentalsustainability.Inconclusion,femalestendedtoassignmore

importancetosustainablefashionthandidmales,asdidconsumerswhowereolderand

whofoundfashionandenvironmentalsustainabilitytobeparticularlysignificant.

70

Table6.22Regressionpredictingeco-fashionattitude(N=163).

Eco-fashionattitude(efa)

Model1b*

Constant

FA

EA

Age

Gender

-0.78

0.20

0.48

0.20

0.19

R2

F

0.29

22.69

Notes:Reportedeffectsarestandardized(Beta)coefficients.Levels:~p<.05*

6.3.2Eco-fashioninvolvement

Theregressionmodelintable6.23usingtheeco-fashioninvolvementasthedependent

variableandfashioninvolvement,environmentalinvolvement,age,andgenderasthe

independentvariableswassignificant,F(4,158)=23.09,p<0.05.Thisregressionmodelthus

couldpartiallypredicttheeco-fashionattitude.Thatsaid,itspredictivepowerwasonly

mediocre:37.80%couldbepredictedbasedonfashionattitude,environmental

involvement,age,andgender(R2=0.37).Gender,b*=0.25,t=3.98,p<0.05,95%CI[1.13,

3.35]andage,b*=0.16,t=2.51,p<0.05,95%CI[0.02,0.19]hadasignificantweak

correlationwitheco-fashioninvolvement.Whileenvironmentalinvolvementhada

significantandstrongcorrelationEI,b*=0.52,t=8.24,p<0.05,95%CI[0.51,0.83].Fashion

involvement,ontheotherhand,didnothaveasignificantcorrelationwitheco-fashion

involvement,b*=0.09,t=1.44,p>0.05,95%CI[-0.06,0.38].Foreachgradethe

environmentalinvolvement,age,eco-fashioninvolvementgrewby0.67,0.12.Forthefactor

gendercanbesaidthattheeco-fashioninvolvementis2.28higherthanformen.In

conclusion,highlyeco-fashioninvolvedindividualstendedtobefemale,older,andmore

interestedinenvironmentalsustainability.

71

Table6.23Regressionmodelpredictingeco-fashioninvolvement(N=163).

Eco-fashioninvolvement(efi)

Model1b*

Constant

FI

EI

Age

Gender

-4.12*

0.09

0.05

0.16

0.25

R2

F

0.38

23.97

Notes:Reportedeffectsarestandardized(Beta)coefficients.Levels:~p<.05*

72

6.4.3Brandattitude

Theregressionmodelintable6.24usingthebrandattitudescoreasthedependentvariable

andfashionattitudeindependentvariablewassignificant,F(1,161)=10.27,p<0.05.The

regressionmodelwasthususefulforpredictingconsumers’brandattitude,butitspredictive

powerwaslimited:16.50%couldbepredictedbasedonfashionattitude,(R2=0.16).,b*=

0.40,t=5.56,p<0.05,95%CI[0.45,0.51]hadasignificantcorrelationwiththefashion

involvement.Foreachgradethefashioninvolvementincreased,thebrandattitudescore

increasedby0.38points.Inconclusion,thoseconsumerswhoaremoreinvolvedintheword

offashionarealsoinvolvedwiththebrandG-Star.Therefore,thehypotheses…were

confirmed.

Table6.24Regressionmodel2predictingbrandattitude

Brandattitude(BA)

Model1b*

Constant

FA

3,79

0.40

R2

F

0.16

30.97

Notes:Reportedeffectsarestandardized(Beta)coefficients.Levels:~p<.05*

6.5Model3:Campaigninvolvement

Theregressionmodelusingthecampaignattitudescorewasthedependentvariableand

fashionattitude,environmentalattitude,eco-fashionattitude,andbrandattitudewerethe

independentvariables,wasnotsignificant,F(4,43)=1.63,p>0.05.Thustheregression

modelwasnothelpfulinpredictingconsumers’campaignattitudes.

73

VIIDiscussion&Conclusion

Thelastchapterofthisresearchpaperinvolvesthediscussion,conclusions,limitationsand

implicationsfortheoryandpractice.Thefirstpartprovidesashortsummaryoftheaimand

mainquestionofthisresearch,themostimportanttheoriesandconcepts.Thesecondpart

discussesthefindingsinrelationtoeachofthesubquestionsandprovidesproofwhether

thehypotheseswereconfirmedornot.Thethirdpartreflectsonthemostimportant

conclusionsregardingthisresearch.Thefourthpartprovidesinsightintothelimitationsof

theresearchpaper.Thefifthsectionprovidesrecommendationsforfutureresearchand

practice.

7.1Summary

Thepastfewyearshaveseenanincreaseinsustainabilityawarenessinthefashionindustry,

asevidencedbytheemergenceofsustainableinitiativesandcommercialcompanies

promotingtheirsustainabilitypractices.Therefore,brandshaveadoptedtheroleof

gatekeeperandcaninfluenceconsumers’choicesregardingeco-fashion(Leeetal.,2012).

Thefactorsthatcaninfluenceconsumers’choicesregardingeco-fashionarefashion

involvement,environmentalinvolvement,eco-fashioninvolvement,brandinvolvementand

campaigninvolvement.Involvementiscomprisedoftwofactors,whicharetheconsumers’

attitudeandbehavior.Therefore,thisstudy’sprimaryresearchquestionis:

Whatarethefactorsthataffectconsumers’choicesregardingeco-fashion?

Toanswerthisresearchquestion,thisstudyusedG-Star’sRawfortheOcean

campaignasacasestudy.Thisquantitativeresearchtooktheformofasurveyexecuted

amongmillennialslivingintheNetherlandsfromAugust2014untilAugust2016.This

timeframereflectstheperiodthatthecampaignwasrunning.Thesamplewascollectedby

snowballsamplinginonlinespacesandrandomselectioninshoppingareasofAmsterdam.

Threemodelswereusedtoanswertheresearchquestion.Thefirstmodelmeasured

towhatextentconsumers’behaviorisaffectedbytheirattitude.Thesecondmodelanalyzed

howfashionattitude/involvement,environmentalattitude/involvementanddemographics

74

affecttheeco-fashionattitude/involvement.Thethirdmodelmeasuredtowhatextentthe

environmentalattitude,eco-fashionandbrandattitudeinfluencedthecampaignattitude.

Furthermore,wasresearchediftheconsumers’brandattitude,environmentalandeco-

fashioninvolvementhadchangedduetothecampaign.

7.2Researchquestions

Inordertoanswerthemainresearchquestion,sixsub-questionswereformulatedbasedon

thefactors,whichaffecttheconsumers’choicesregardingsustainablefashion.Importantfor

interpretationisthattheresultsinsection6.2showsthatthepredictivepowerofthe

attitudebehaviormodelwasweakandtheresultsinsection6.4.1and6.4.1showthatthe

predictivepoweroftheeco-fashionattitude/involvementmodelwasmediocre.

Furthermore,showssection6.4.3thatthemodelforpredictingthebrandattitudewas

weak.

1. Towhatextenddifferconsumer’senvironmentalattitudeandeco-fashion

attitudefromeachother?

Theresultsinsection6.3ofthetwoone-samplet-testsshowthatthesamplemeansof

environmentalattitudeandeco-fashionattitudevariablessignificantlydifferedfromeach

other.

H1:Consumers’environmentalattitudeisnotsimilartotheireco-fashioninvolvement

andthereforethecorrelationswithothervariablesarenotthesame.

Theresultsinsection6.3ofthetwoone-samplet-testsshowthathypothesisonewas

confirmed.Concludedwasthatthetheoryregardingthedifferencesbetweenenvironmental

andeco-fashionconsciousnessfromChanandWong(2012)wascorrectandthereforethe

variableshavetobeusedseparately.

2. Towhatextentdoconsumers’demographics,fashionattitudeandenvironmental

attitudeaffecttheireco-fashionattitude?

75

Theresultsinsection6.4.1showinaregressionanalysisthatenvironmentalattitude,

fashionattitude,ageandgenderaffectedtheeco-fashionattitudepositively.

H2:Consumerswhoarefemale,youngerandhighlyfashionandenvironmentalare

alsohighlyeco-fashioninvolved.

Theresultsinsection6.4.1showthatthehypothesiswaspartlyaccepted.Consumerswho

werefemaleandfoundfashionandenvironmentalsustainabilityhighlyimportantfound

eco-fashionalsohighlyimportant.Theageaffectedtheeco-fashionattitudesignificantly,

butintheoppositedirection.Theresultsshowthattheoldertheconsumersinthesample

werethemoreimportanttheyfoundeco-fashion.

3. Towhatextentdoconsumers’demographics,fashioninvolvementandenvironmental

involvementaffecttheireco-fashioninvolvement?

Theresultsinsection6.4.2showinaregressionanalysisthatenvironmentalinvolvement,

fashioninvolvement,ageandgenderaffectedtheeco-fashioninvolvementpositively.

H3:Consumerswhowerefemale,youngerandhighlyfashioninvolvedand

environmentalinvolvementwerealsohighlyeco-fashioninvolved

Theresultsinsection6.4.2showthatthehypothesiswaspartlyaccepted.Consumerswho

werefemaleandwerehighlyfashionandenvironmentalinvolvedwerealsohighlyeco-

fashioninvolved.Theageaffectedtheeco-fashioninvolvementsignificantly,butinthe

oppositedirection.Theresultsshowthattheoldertheconsumersinthesamplewerethe

moreimportanttheyfoundeco-fashion.

4. Towhatextentdoesaconsumers'attitudeaffecttheirbehavior?

Section6.2showintheresultsoftheregressionanalysesthatconsumerswhoscorehigher

onfashion,environmental,eco-fashionattitude,scorealsohigherontherelatedbehavior

76

variable.However,thestrengthofthecorrelationdifferspergroup.Thefashion,

environmentalandeco-fashionattitudealsohaveapositiveinfluenceonthewillingnessto

pay.Furthermore,showtheresultsinsection6.3thatthefashionattitudeaffectedthe

brandattitudetowardsG-starpositively.

H4:Consumerswhoarefemaleandscorehigheronfashion,environmentalandeco-

fashionattitudearealsowillingtospendmoremoney(in€)on

sustainablefashion.

Theresultsinsection6.2.4showthathypothesisfourwaspartlyaccepted.Consumer’s

genderandeco-fashioninvolvementweretheonlyfactorsthataffectthewillingnesstopay

moreforsustainablefashion.

H5:Consumerswhofindenvironmentalsustainabilityandeco-fashionhighly

importantperformalsomoreenvironmentalandeco-fashionactions.

Theresultsinsection6.2.2and6.2.3showthatthehypothesiswasaccepted.Inconclusion,

consumers’environmentalandeco-fashionattitudeindeedaffectedconsumers’

environmentalandeco-fashionbehavior.

5. Towhatextentdoesconsumers’fashionattitudeaffecttheirbrandattitudetowards

G-Star?

Theresultsoftheregressionanalysisinsection6.4.3showthatconsumersfashionattitude

affectsconsumer’attitudetowardsthebrandG-Star.

H6:Consumerswhofindfashionhighlyimportanthaveamorepositiveattitude

towardsthebrand.

Theresultsinsection6.4.3thathypothesis6wasaccepted.Inconclusion,consumerswho

haveamorepositiveattitudetowardsfashionalsohaveamorepositiveattitudetowards

thebrandG-Star.

77

6. Towhatextentdoesconsumers’environmentalattitude,eco-fashionattitude,and

brandattitudeaffecttheircampaignattitude?

Theresultsinsection6.5showthatmodel3hasnopredictivepoweroverthecampaign

attitude.Thefactorsenvironmental,eco-fashionandbrandattitudehavenopredictive

poweroverthecampaignattitude.

H7:Consumerswhohaveamorepositiveattitudetowards

environmental,eco-fashionandthebrandG-Starhaveamorepositiveattitude

towardsthecampaign.

Theresultsofsection6.5showthathypothesis7wasrejected.Therefore,itwasconcluded

thatenvironmental,eco-fashionandbrandattitudehasnotaffectedbythecampaign

attitude.

7. Towhatextentchangedthecampaignconsumers’brandattitude,environmentaland

eco-fashionattitudeandbehavior?

Theresultsinsection6.1.6showsthat54.20%oftheconsumersconfirmthattheirattitude

towardsthebrandG-Starhasincreasedduetothecampaign.Theenvironmentalattitude

hasincreasedfor25.00%oftherespondentsandtheeco-fashionattitudehasincreasedfor

40.30%oftherespondents.Theenvironmentalattitudeandbehaviorwerenotaffectedby

thecampaign.Therefore,wasconcludedthatthebrandattitudebenefitsthemostfromthe

sustainablefashionmarketingcampaigninthissample.

7.3Conclusions

Themainconclusionsofthisresearchareprovidedinthissection.

Thefirstconclusion,supportedbytheresultsinsection6.1,entailsthatmillennials

findenvironmentalandeco-fashionimportantandthattheyhaveahighenvironmentaland

eco-fashioninvolvement.ThisresultcorrespondswiththestatementfromSmith(2010)that

millennialshaveahighenvironmentalandeco-fashionattitude/involvement.

78

Thesecondconclusionstatesthattheenvironmentalattitudeandtheeco-fashion

attitudedifferfromeachotherandthereforeshouldbemeasuredseparately.Theresultsin

section6.3supportthisstatementwithtwoonesamplet-tests,comparingthesample

meansfrombothvariables.

Thethirdconclusionisthatconsumers,whoarefemale,olderandfind

environmentalsustainabilityhighlyimportantfindeco-fashionhighlyimportantaswell.This

conclusionissupportedbytheresultsinsection6.3.2.

Thefourthconclusioninvolvesthatfemales,whofindenvironmentalsustainability

andeco-fashionhighlyimportantarewillingtopaymoreforsustainablefashionthanmales

do.Thisconclusionissupportedbytheresultsinsection6.2.4.

Thefifthconclusionentailsthatconsumersfindenvironmentalsustainabilityhighly

importantperformalsomoreactionstolivemoreenvironmentalfriendly.Consumers’who

findeco-fashionhighlyimportantperformalsomoreactionstoconsumefashionmore

environmentalfriendly.Theseconclusionaresupportedbytheresultsinsection6.2.1.

Thesixthconclusionstatesthatthecampaignattitudecouldnotbepredictedby

environmentalattitude,eco-fashionattitudeandcampaignattitude.Therefore,thefactors

havenotaffectedtheconsumers’attitudetowardstheRawfortheOceancampaign.A

possibleexplanationfortheresultisthatonly28.70%oftherespondentsinthesamplewas

familiarwiththeRawfortheOceancampaign.Furthermore,haveonly8respondents

purchaseditemsfromtheRawfortheOceancampaigncollection.Thisconclusionis

supportedbytheresultsinsection6.1.7and6.5.

Theseventhconclusionstatesthatthemajorityoftherespondentsinthissample

likedthebrandG-Starmoreduetothecampaign.ThustheRawfortheOceancampaignhas

hadapositiveeffectonG-Star’sbrandimage,whichcorrespondstothestatementofLeeet

al.(2012)whoclaims:agreenmarketingcampaignimprovesthecorporateimage.Theother

statementsfromLeeetal.(2012)thatagreenmarketingcampaigncanchangeconsumers’

environmentalandeco-friendlyattitudeandbehaviorwasnotsupportedbythemajorityof

therespondents.Thisconclusionissupportedbytheresultsinsection6.1.7.

Inordertoanswerthemainquestionconcludedcanbesaidthatthefactors,which

affectthechoicesregardingeco-fashionaretheconsumers’gender,age,fashionattitude/

involvement,environmentalattitude/involvementandeco-fashionattitude.Older

consumerswithinthemillennialgeneration,makemorepositivechoicesregardingeco-

79

fashionthanyoungerconsumerswithinthegeneration.Femalesfindeco-fashionmore

importantandaremoreeco-fashioninvolvedthanmen.Furthermore,ahighscoreregarding

environmentalattitude/involvement,fashionattitude/involvementandeco-fashionattitude

hasapositiveeffectonconsumers’eco-fashionchoices.

7.4Limitations

Thelimitationsofthisresearch,canbedividedintotwocategories:thesampleandthetime

frameoftheresearch.Thefirstlimitationregardsthegeographiclocationofthe

respondents.Inthesampleincludedonlypeople,wholivedintheNetherlands,whilethe

campaignwaspromotedglobally.Duetodifferentculture,socio-economicinfluencesand

governmentregulationsregardingsustainabilitytheeffectofthecampaignonconsumers

willbedifferentpercountry.ConsumersincountriessuchasSwedenandNorway,inwhich

thegovernmentisveryactiveinpromotingandsupportingenvironmentalsustainability,will

probablyresponddifferenttothecampaignthanconsumersinAsiancountries,where

environmentalsustainabilityisnotanimportantissueonthepoliticalagenda.

Thesecondlimitationconcernsthethetotalnumberofrespondents.Ifthesample

consistedofmorerespondents,itwouldhaveprobablybeenabetterrepresentationof

society.Therespondentsinthesamplehadamediocrebrandattitudeandalowbrand

behavior.Further,only8ofthe167respondentsboughtanitemfromtheRawfortheOcean

campaign.DuetothesmallsamplesizeitisnotclearifG-Starisamediocrebrandandthe

campaignwasafailureorifitisacoincidencethattherespondentsinthissamplearenot

hugefansfromG-Star.

Thethirdlimitationconcernsthestudy’stimeframe.Duetothechoiceforacross

sectionalanalysisitisnotpossibletomeasurepeople’sattitudeandbehaviorbeforethey

sawthecampaign.Therefore,thisresearchhastorelyonpeople’sopinionsabout

themselvesandthepast.Itispossiblethatpeoplewanttopresentthemselvesdifferently

thanreallyare.Itispossiblethattheywillaltertheirmemoryofthepastaccordingtothe

knowledgeoftoday.Iftheywereaskedatthatspecifictimetheiranswerswouldbe

different.Further,itisdifficulttoresearchwhenandhowpeoplegotincontactwiththe

campaignandwhattheeffectwasatthattimeontheirattitudeandbehavior.Inorderto

avoidthatproblem,anexperimentwouldbeapossibility,whereincampaignfootagewillbe

displayedtopeople.However,anexperimentalsettingistotallydifferentfromtheway

80

peoplegetincontactwithadvertisementinreallifeandthereforetheeffectwillisnot

same.

7.5RecommendationsforFutureResearchandthefashionindustry

Therecommendationsforfutureresearchistoincreasethesampleformorereliabilityand

betterrepresentationofthepopulation.Further,itisrelevanttoexpandthegeographic

scopeoftheresearchglobally.Itisrelevanttoseeifarebetweendifferencesbetween

countries.Furthermore,itisusefultomeasuretheeffectsofagreenmarketingcampaignin

alongitudinalresearch,whichavoidshavingtorelyonrespondent’sperceptionoftheir

attitudeandbehaviorinpast.Thelastrecommendationincludesthatitisrelevanttodo

moreresearch,thenisnowavailable,regardingthedifferencesbetweenenvironmental

involvementandeco-fashioninvolvement.

Therecommendationsforthefashionindustryinvolvetherelevanceofgreen

marketingcampaigns.Althoughthemodeltopredictcampaignattitudewasnotusefuland

thecampaignbehaviorintermsofproductsaleswaslowdoesnotimplicatethatgreen

fashionmarketingcampaignsdonotbenefitacompany.Theresultsinsection6.5showthat

theRawfortheOceancampaignhadapositiveeffectontherespondents’brandattitude.

Anotherargumentwhygreenfashionmarketingcampaignisrelevantforafashion

companyisduetotheconceptalsoknowastheCoca-ColaandPepsiadvertisement

phenomenon.LeadingbrandsuchasCocaColaandPepsistilladvertisealthoughitdoesnot

directlyincreasesales.HartmannandKlapperstudythisphenomenonforleadingsoda

brandsthatadvertiseduringthecommercialbreakoftheSuperBowl,whichisthemost

watchedAmericanTV-show.Theystatethattheleadingsodabrandshavetoadvertise

becauseotherleadingsodabrandsadvertisetoo.IfCocaColadecidesnottoadvertiseand

Pepsidecidestoadvertise,CocaColalosessalestoPepsi.However,iftheybothadvertiseno

onegainsorlosessales.Therefore,theCocaColaPepsiphenomenonappliestogreen

marketinginthefashionindustry.Becausecertainbrands/retailerspromotetheir

sustainabilitypractices,otherbrands/retailersareforcedtoadvertisetootoavoidthelossof

sales.

81

Furthermore,hasnotadvertisinganegativeimpactonthebrandimage.Thebrands

thatnotchosetoadvertisesustainabilityareseenasfarlesssustainablethanthebrands

thatdochoseforagreenmarketingcampaign.Therefore,istheadviseforfashion

companiesthatadvertisingsustainabilityisuseful,althoughitdoesnotreflectinsales

directly.

82

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ApendixI

G-Starquestionnaire-2

Q1.1Welcometomysurvey!Thankyoufortakingthetimetocompletethisshortsurveyto

helpmegraduateformyMAinCulturalEconomicsandEntrepreneurship.Ireallyappreciate

yourhelp.Theaimofthissurveyistoresearchtherelationshipfashionconsumershavewith

environmentalsustainability,eco-fashionandgreenmarketing.Inordertoresearchthis

relationshipacasestudyofthebrandG-Starandacertaincollectiontheymarketedisused.

Byprovidingsomeinformationaboutyourattitudeandbehaviortowards(eco)fashion-

consumptionIcandevelopapatternaboutfashionconsumerbehavior.Allinformation

providedtomeisanonymous,strictlyconfidentialandwon'tbeusedforotherpurposes

thanthisresearchalone.Ifyouhavequestionsfeelfreetocontactmebyemail

jitske.nap@gmail.comorbyfacebookmessage@jitskenap

Thankyouverymuch,JitskeNap

Q2.1WereyoulivingintheNetherlandsfromAugust2014untilAugust2016?

• No(1)

• Yes(pleasespecifyhowlonginmonths)(2)____________________

Condition:NoIsSelected.SkipTo:EndofSurvey.

Q2.2Areyoubornbetween1977and2000?

• Yes(1)

• No(2)

Condition:NoIsSelected.SkipTo:EndofSurvey.

• Q2.3Whatisyourage?

• Scale16-40yearsold.

88

Q47Whatisyourgender?

• Male(1)

• Female(2)

Q2.4Whatisyourhigestlevelofeducation?

• Basisschool/ElementarySchool(1)

• Middelbareschool/HighSchool(2)

• MBO/CommunityCollege(3)

• HBO/Appliedscience(4)

• WO/University(5)

Q2.5Whatisyournationality?

Open

Q2.6Whatisyourcountryofresidenceatthismoment?

Open

Q2.7Whatisyourcityofresidenceatthismoment?

Open

Q2.8Howmuchdoyouearn(netto)peryear?

• Lessthan€10,000(1)

• €10,000-€19,999(2)

• €20,000-€29,999(3)

• €30,000-€39,999(4)

• €40,000-€49,999(5)

• €50,000-€59,999(6)

• €60,000-€69,999(7)

• €70,000-€79,999(8)

• €80,000-€89,999(9)

• €90,000-€99,999(10)

89

• €100,000-€149,999(11)

• Morethan€150,000(12)

Q2.9Whichofthefollowingcategoriesdescribesbestyouremploymentstatus(more

answerspossible)?

• Employed,working1-39hoursperweek(1)

• Student(2)

• Notemployed(3)

Q3.1Howimportantisfashiontoyouonascalefrom0-10?

• 0(0)

• 1(1)

• 2(2)

• 3(3)

• 4(4)

• 5(5)

• 6(6)

• 7(7)

• 8(8)

• 9(9)

• 10(10)

Q3.2Towhatextentdoyouagreewiththefollowingstatement?

Stronglydisagree

(1)

Disagree(2) Neitheragreenor

disagree(3)

Agree(4) StronglyAgree(5)

Myknowledge

aboutthelatest

fashiontrendsisup

todate.(1)

Myfriendsconsider

measavaluable

resourcetoget

fashionadvice

from.(2)

90

Igivemyfriends

oftenadvicewhat

towear.(3)

Q3.3Howoftendoyougoshoppingforfashionrelateditems?

• Onceayear(1)

• Twiceayear(2)

• Onceeverythreemonths(3)

• Onceamonth(4)

• Onceaweek(5)

• Morethanonceaweek(6)

Q3.4Howmuchmoney(in€)doyouspendonfashionrelatedpurchasesamonth(onand

off-line)?

Open

Q4.1Howimportantisenvironmentalsustainabilitytoyouonascalefrom0-10?

• 0(0)

• 1(1)

• 2(2)

• 3(3)

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• 7(7)

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• 10(10)

Q4.2Towhatextentdoyouagreewiththefollowingstatement?

91

Stronglydisagree

(1)

Disagree(2) Neitheragreenor

disagree(3)

Agree(4) StronglyAgree(5)

Itisimportantto

preservenatural

resourcesforfuture

generations(1)

Iamconcerned

about

environmental

issuessuchas

globalwarming(2)

Environmental

sustainability

shouldbean

importantpointon

thepoliticalagenda

(3)

Q4.3Whatkindofactionsdoyoutaketobemoreenvironmentalfriendly(moreanswers

possible)?

• None,Idon’ttakeanyenvironmentalactionstobecomemoresustainable.(1)

• Waste,Iseparatemywaste.(2)

• Food,Ieatorganic.(3)

• Limitoverallconsumption,onlyusewhatIneed.(4)

• Limitmyuseofresources(water/gas/electricity).(5)

• Transportation,Itakepublictransportationorcycle.(6)

Q5.1Howimportantissustainabilityinthefashionindustrytoyouonascalefrom0-10?

• 0(0)

• 1(1)

• 2(2)

• 3(3)

• 4(4)

• 5(5)

• 6(6)

92

• 7(7)

• 8(8)

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• 10(10)

Q5.2Towhatextentdoyouagreewiththefollowingstatement:

Stronglydisagree

(1)

Disagree(2) Neitheragreenor

disagree(3)

Agree(4) Stronglyagree(5)

Thereshouldcome

moreregulations

forfashionbrands

toproducemore

environmental

friendly.(1)

Sustainabilityinthe

fashionindustryis

important(2)

Peopleshouldbe

willingtopaymore

forsustainable

fashion.(3)

Q5.3Whatactionsareyoutakinginordertobecomeamoresustainablefashionconsumer?

• None,Idon'ttakeenvironmentalactionstobecomemoresustainable.(1)

• RecycleclothesIdiscard(forexamplebringtorecyclingcontainer,sell2ndhand

etc.).(2)

• Buymoreenvironmentalfriendlyclothes(2ndhand,sustainablebrands).(3)

• ExpandtimeIcanusemyclothesmyself(Repair/changefit/dye/usefabricforother

purposes).(4)

93

Q5.4Howmuchareyouwillingtopay(in€)foraNOTSUSTAINABLEjeans?

Open

Q5.5Howmuchareyouwillingtopay(in€)foraNOTSUSTAINABLET-shirt?

Open

Q5.6Howmuchareyouwillingtopay(in€)foraSUSTAINABLEjeans?

Open

Q5.7Howmuchareyouwillingtopay(in€)foraSUSTAINABLET-shirt?

Open

Q6.1AreyoufamiliarwiththebrandG-Star?

• Yes,IamfamiliarwiththebrandG-Star.(1)

• No,IhaveneverheardofthebrandG-Star.(2)

Condition:No,Ihaveneverheardoft...IsSelected.SkipTo:EndofBlock.

Q6.2WhatgradewouldyougiveG-Starasabrandonascalefrom0-10?

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• 10(10)

Q6.3Towhatextentdoyouagreewiththefollowingstatements

94

Stronglydisagree

(1)

Disagree(2) Neitheragreenor

disagree(3)

Agree(4) StronglyAgree(5)

G-Starisagood

jeansbrand.(1)

TheproductsofG-

Starareofahigh

quality.(2)

G-Starisoneofmy

favoritejeans

brands.(3)

WearingG-Star

clothesincreases

mysocialstatus.(4)

IwearG-Star

clothingbecause

myfriendswearG-

Star.(5)

Q6.4HaveyouboughtanythingfromG-Starlastyear?

• Yes(1)

• No(2)

Condition:NoIsSelected.SkipTo:EndofBlock.

Q6.5HowmanyitemsdidyoupurchaselastyearfromG-Star?

Q6.6Howmuchmoney(in€)didyouspendintotalontheitemsyoupurchasedatG-Star

lastyear?

Q7.1AreyoufamiliarwiththeRawfortheOceancampaignfromG-Star?

• Yes,IamfamiliarwithRawfortheOcean(1)

• No,IhaveneverheardofRawfortheOcean(2)

Condition:No,IhaveneverheardofR...IsSelected.SkipTo:Doyouhaveanysuggestionsor

other....

95

Q7.2WhatgradewouldyougivetheRawfortheOceancampaignonascalefrom0-10?

• 0(0)

• 1(1)

• 2(2)

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• 8(8)

• 9(9)

• 10(10)

Q7.4HaveyouboughtanyitemsfromtheG-StarRawfortheOceancollection?

• Yes(1)

• No(2)

Condition:NoIsSelected.SkipTo:Towhatextenddoyouagreewiththe....

Q7.5HowmanyitemshaveyouboughtfromthetheRawfortheOceanCollection?

Q7.6Howmuchmoneyhavethesepurchasescostintotal?(in€)?

96

Q7.7TowhatextentdoyouagreewiththefollowingstatementsabouttheeffectoftheRaw

fortheOceanCampaign?

Stronglydisagree

(1)

Disagree(2) Neitheragreenor

disagree(3)

Agree(4) StronglyAgree(5)

IfindtheRawfor

theOcean

campaignpositive.

(1)

Themessageofthe

campaignisclear.

(2)

Duetothe

campaignIlikeG-

Starmoreasa

brand.(3)

Duetothe

campaignIfind

environmental

sustainabilitymore

important(4)

Duetothe

campaignI'mmore

awareofthe

problemswith

plasticbottlesinthe

ocean.(5)

Q7.8Hasthecampaignchangedtheactionsyoutaketobemoreenvironmentalfriendly?

• Yes(1)

• No(2)

DisplayThisQuestion:

IfHasthecampaignchangedtheactionsyoutaketobemoreenvironmentalfriendly?YesIs

Selected

Q7.9Whatkindofactionsdoyoutaketobemoreenvironmentalfriendly(Moreanswers

possible)?

97

• Waste,Iseperatemywaste(1)

• Food,Ieatorganic(2)

• Limitoverallconsumption,onlyusewhatIneed(3)

• Limitmyuseofresources(water/gas/electricity)(4)

• Transportation,Itakepublictransportationorcycle(6)

• Ilimitmyconsumptionofplasticbottles(7)

Q7.10Hasthecampaignchangedyourfashionconsumptionintermsofsustainability?

• Yes(1)

• No(2)

DisplayThisQuestion:

IfHasthecampaignchangedyourfashionconsumptionintermsofsustainability?YesIs

Selected

Q7.11Whatactionsareyoutakinginordertoconsumemoresustainable?

• RecycleclothesIdiscard(forexamplebringtorecyclingcontainer,sell2ndhandetc.)

(1)

• Buymoreenvironmentalfriendlyclothes(2ndhand,sustainablebrands).(2)

• ExpandtimeIcanusemyclothesmyself(Repare/changefit/dye/usefabricfor

otherpurposes).(3)

Q7.12Doyouhaveanysuggestionsorotherinformationyouwishtosharethatcould

improvemyresearch?