compost manual: a complete guide to composting

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Compost Manual .......... A complete guide to composting.

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Compost Manual

What Is Composting?

Compost is decayed, organic plant matter. Composting is the

result of a complex feeding pattern where aerobic microbes

(bacteria and fungi that thrive on oxygen) feed on organic

waste and break it down into a nutritious soil amendment. As

the compost is mixed and aerated, these organic materials

break down into a rich substance the same way that plants

decay and are recycled in any ecosystem. This in turn

creates fluffy, arable soil known as humus. All organic matter

breaks down into compost over time, but the decomposition

process on its own can take quite a while. Compostingcreates a controlled environment to rapidly convert waste

into a powerful, nutrient-rich matter that is ideal in your garden, on your lawn, or in your potted plants.

Along with fuel efficiency, water conservation, and reduction in meat consumption, home composting is

one of the most environmentally beneficial activities you can participate in. Yard and food waste make

up approximately thirty percent of the waste stream in the U.S. If every household participated in

composting, it would divert a significant portion of the waste stream from our landfills and water

treatment facilities. If you combined composting with recycling cans, newspapers, and plastic, you could

reduce your waste flow by almost fifty percent! By composting, you are preventing our crowded landfills

from overflowing and giving something back to nature.

Proper compost is an incredibly nutritious soil amendment, buffering the pH and retaining moisture and

oxygen in the soil. It can cool the soil surface and help mitigate erosion by encouraging a vigorous rootsystem boosted by nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus and other nutrients. Composting helps control and

suppress plant pathogens, as well as provide food for microorganisms, which keep the soil healthy and

balanced. It improves the structure of problematic soils, breaking up heavy clay soils and retaining water

better in sandy soils. Compost is chemical free—children and pets can enjoy the beautiful bounty of your

organic lawn without exposure to toxins or synthetic products, making it an excellent, cheaper alternative

to commercial fertilizers.

Homeowners everywhere are starting to realize how convenient and economical it is to compost waste

they would have otherwise thrown away. Why buy premium topsoil when you create your own endless

supply for free? Home composting also serves as an invaluable educational tool, teaching children about

conservation, the cycle of life, and the inter-connectedness of the natural world. If it gets your child

thinking about science or biology, or voluntarily participating in yard work, it’s well worth the effort!

How To Compost

Composting is a dynamic process; it takes skill and the ideal conditions to aid the decomposition

process. The good news is that decomposition naturally occurs with or without your help, so half the

battle already won. Once you understand the major factors behind composting, you can apply them to

adjust your efforts and turn your compost bin, tumbler, or open pile into an efficient composting

machine.

The real trick is to get your pile to decompose as fast as you can fill it. When you neglect your compost

pile, it will decompose very slowly, otherwise known as “passive composting”. Fast or “active”

composting can happen much more quickly because the aerobic bacteria breakdown much faster.Passive composting involves little energy or effort, but takes much longer. Active composting, on the

other hand, requires a bit more work but yields results faster. How you compost depends on your

needs. If you want to produce as much compost as possible, you want to be actively managing your

compost. If you are looking to get rid of yard waste, go with passive composting.

mpost Guide - What is Composting? http://www.compostmanual.com/

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The rate at which breakdown occurs depends on several factors: oxygenation, temperature, water

content, particulate surface area, and the carbon to nitrogen ratio. If you pay attention to these things,

the temperature will rise to around 130-140 degrees, ensuring rapid decomposition. Moisture is

key—your compost should feel damp, but never wet. When it’s over inoculated, it limits the oxygen that

bacteria require. The rule of thumb is that it should be as wet as a well-wrung sponge. Similarly, if your

compost is too dry, bacteria cannot survive, thereby slowing down the decomposing process. If your

pile doesn’t heat up, it’s possible that your compost pile is too wet, too dry, or there is not enough

protein (greens). You can measure the temperature with a compost thermometer.

Aeration is equally important, as your compost needs oxygen to decompose. Keep your compost pile

breathing by turning it by hand with a pitchfork. A compost tumbler takes out this step by aerating the

compost for you as it tumbles in the bin. Look for ones with vents on the side to keep your compost

properly aerated. If you don’t have a compost tumbler, try a metal aerator that will help take some of

the work out of turning the pile.

Almost all organic material works in a compost pile.

You’re aiming for a good balance between carbon-rich

matter (“browns”) and nitrogen-rich materials

(“greens”). Brown materials are things like dried

leaves, wood chips and straw, whereas greens

constituted grass clippings and kitchen scraps. Active

composting requires finding the right mix for your compost pile. Ideally, the ratio is 25:1 (25 parts brown

to 1 part green), but it can vary—too much carbon will

slow the process, while too much nitrogen will cause

odor. This is where owning a chipper shredder is quite handy, since you need leaves and wood chips for

browns. It also may be worth it to save yard waste, because as the seasons change, it becomes harder

to find what you need. Although you can compost all year long, the decomposition rate will slow down

as temperatures drop. Consider stockpiling winter organics in a covered container stored outside so you

can add them to your compost bin or tumbler in the spring. Store fallen leaves from autumn in bags that

you can use later during the spring and summer; likewise, keep grass clipping and other greens around

during the winter months (they can last about one to two weeks).

Choosing a good composting site will help speed up the process. Start building your compost over soilor lawn instead of on a patio so you can take advantage of earthworms and microbes. Look for an area

that’s level and well-drained. If you’re adding kitchen scraps, keep it near the back door, but not so far

away you’ll forget it’s there. If you live in a cooler climate, put the pile in a sunny spot so it can trap solar

heat, and find it some shelter during the winter months so the decaying process doesn’t slow down. If

you live in a warmer climate, keep the pile in a shadier spot so it won’t dry out. And remember to look

for a spot that will allow you to compost unobtrusively; try to distance it from the neighbor’s yard and put

up visual barriers. A compost bin will keep it contained, and is easier to manage than an open compost

pile.

Shredded organic materials heat up and decompose faster. The smaller the composting pieces, the

faster the pile with decay. Add new materials, remembering to layer them. Mixing distributes

microorganisms evenly allows for faster decomposition at the same time, so that there is a more

balanced carbon to nitrogen rate, as well as better moisture and air migration. The goal is to create an

active, hot batch of compost, so the more effort you put into your pile, the more black gold you’re going

to get!

After you’ve attained the right mix of browns and greens, the right amount of moisture, and the ideal

aeration and heat from turning, your batch of compost will be well on its way to becoming the soil

amendment your plants so desperately crave. However, it would be irresponsible to give an exact time

frame for when waste becomes humus, as several factors will impact how quickly breakdown occurs.

Peak seasons for composting are spring and autumn, when the atmosphere is warm and damp. Piles

created during this time, with shredded materials that are frequently aerated, can be ready in

approximately 2-4 months. Properly tended soft waste in warm weather can take as little as 4-6 weeks.

Piles prepared in the winter or late fall, created with larger or tougher pieces of waste, or left

unattended, will take longer to decay.

When your compost is done, it will be approximately half of its original size. You should not be able to

discern individual items you placed in the bin. Look for a dark color, crumbly texture, and earthy smell.

Slimy compost is a sign that the process was done incorrectly at some point. If you experience trouble


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with clumps or mats, organize your organic wastes into thinner layers, and use aerators or a pitchfork to

work your pile.

Many people think that composting is a smelly process—it’s not true! If you properly manage your

compost pile, you should not be producing offensive odors. Compost should have an earthy, pleasant

smell similar to a forest floor after rain. If you do smell something suspicious, odor problems are easily

fixed, so don’t become discouraged.

Soon after your compost pile is established, you should begin seeing sundry little critters throughout the

pile contents. These helpers, which usually migrate from other parts of the garden or the soil beneaththe pile, can range from arthropods and flying insects to microorganisms like bacteria and fungi. Don’t

be alarmed! They are all part of the soil-borne community that is critical to the decomposition process.

Do not attempt to eradicate or remove these beneficial creatures, and do not use any chemicals or

sprays that would normally harm them. Let them flourish and your compost will flourish with them. If

possible, use rainwater from a rain barrel to moisten the pile, as chlorinated municipal water sources

can slow down the natural rate of breakdown.

For your convenience, we’ve provided a chart describing the factors that could affect your compost. Use

it as a quick reference and guide:

Factors

Affecting

Rate

description

Oxygenation

Oxygen is required for respiration by all aerobic inhabitants within the pile.Aerobic microbes decompose waste at a faster rate than their anaerobic

brethren, and would not produce the foul odors associated with anaerobic

decomposition. Adequate ventilation and manually turning or mixing your pile

with aerators or pile turners twice a month increases its rate of

decomposition. An unmixed pile may take three to four times longer before

it breaks down. If purely manual mixing is not to your fancy, you can invest

in a compost tumbler that aerates by turning.

Temperature

Heat is a byproduct of decomposition and accelerates the process. The

optimum temperature for fast decomposition is between 90 and 135

degrees F. Whether it is due to cold climate or insufficient bacterial activity,

when the temperature falls below this, decomposition will slow, but not

cease. To keep temperatures elevated, try an insulation jacket or better placement for maximizing radiant solar heat. Also choose black colored bins

in cooler climate zones.

Water

Content

An efficient composter needs to have a moisture content of approximately

50% (it should feel like a damp towel) for microbial activity. If it is too dry,

decomposition will slow down considerably, while overly wet piles can

trigger anaerobic conditions and begin to smell. Keep the pile covered

during heavy rains, so that valuable nutrients are not washed away. Add

rain water from your rain barrel when dry spells occur (chlorine in municipal

water can kill the organisms in your living system).

Surface Area

Maximize this by shredding and chipping all clippings and waste into small

pieces with a chipper/shredder. The more surface area you expose for

microorganisms to attack, the faster the decomposition.

Carbon:

Nitrogen

Ratio

Organic materials rich in nitrogen are referred to as GREENS (fresh veggie

scraps or grass clippings), while the others can be lumped together as

BROWNS (hay, twigs, dried leaves). A good general rule of thumb is use

2-3 parts brown to 1 part green. When initially building your pile, always

remember to layer, layer, layer! Alternating layers ensures proper mixing.

Let’s review how to setup a composting station:

Choose a moderately sunny, accessible area for your composter. If you’re using a compost bin,

turn the soil in your chosen location.

1.

Start your green and brown layering process, beginning with a layer of small branches at the

bottom that will allow for proper circulation and drainage.

2.

Top off your new pile with finished compost or good garden soil to ensure an introduction of bacteria to your waste.

3.

Aerate regularly by mixing, checking moisture content.4.

Harvest the finished compost, and you’re all set to enjoy a beautiful, healthy garden!


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Dos and Don'ts

What to put in your compost bin:

Almost anything botanical will work in your compost bin. Dead leaves during fall are outstanding, since

they can help improve all soil types and aerate heavy clay soils. A lawn sweeper is a good idea to help

collect leaves—it’s much faster than raking and picks up leftover foliage better. Tree limbs and branches

turned into wood chips and sawdust are also great, although these need to be chopped or shredded.

Again, having a chipper shredder around will make this job a lot easier.

Grass clippings decompose quickly and have as much nitrogen as manure, but you need to mix them

well with plenty of browns so that they don’t become anaerobic and clump together. Seedlings, dead

plants and decapitated flower heads should also be thrown in as green materials. Spoiled hay or straw

is a great carbon (brown) material. Seaweed is another great source for composting, but be sure to

wash off the salt first.

Manure is a given; it contains both nitrogen and microbes, in

addition to being full of nutrients. Use manure from

herbivores, as meat-eating animal manure can have harmful

pathogens. Let manure age a little bit to avoid overheating

your compost pile and killing off good bacteria and

earthworms, and layer it with other browns like straw or

leaves to keep things balanced.

Kitchen scraps include melon rinds, carrot peelings, tea

bags, coffee grinds, orange peels, apple cores, banana

peels, corn cobs and corn stalks, peanut shells, alfalfa or sprouts, and egg shells (although these need to be crushed to break down faster). Keep a kitchen scrap

carrier handy so you can easily add biodegradable items to your compost pile every few days. If your

compost pile is open, over the scraps with brown materials to deter pests from visiting your compost.

Shredded cardboard boxes, newspapers, paper (particularly those with soy-based inks) and sawdust

from untreated wood will all contribute nicely to your organic potpourri. You should always keep in mind

not to put too much of any one thing in—it can throw off the N-P-K balance, not to mention the pH. If

adding paper products, keep it at 10% or less of the compost material weight, as these products are

low in nitrogen and slow rates of decomposition in your pile.

Remember, the more surface area of waste exposed to your compost microorganisms, the faster the

decomposition process. Throw in a handful of good garden soil to inoculate your new pile with living

organisms. A few earthworms are a nice addition, too.

Though not required, many individuals add compost starters and accelerators to help their pile

along—this is fine, just avoid synthetic additives and seek out organic sources with minimal packaging,

like those found on our website.

The following table is a cheat sheet for your convenience:

From the Yard From the Kitchen

chemical-free grass clippings

dry leaves

Shrub and tree waste

sawdust and wood chips from

untreated wood

straw and hay

dead plants and flowers

potting soil

dead insects

coffee grounds and filters

tea bags (without staples) and leaves

veggie and fruit scraps

corn husks

crushed eggshells

hair from brushes

cereal, like oatmeal

bread and flour

leftover pasta, without oil or dairy-based

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sauces

rice

all-natural fibers, like cotton

shredded black and white newspaper and

paper towels.

What Not to Put in Your Compost Bin:

Though all organic matter can naturally break down, some materials are not suitable for the home

compost pile. Read these carefully, and adhere to this advice in order to have the most healthy and safecomposting experience.

First and foremost, no human or pet excrement should be added to the bins. Feces can harbor harmful

bacteria, and there is no guarantee that the high temperatures of your pile will kill them. The potential

health cost is too high, thus directly composting feces should not be attempted.

Secondly, stay away from greasy foods, dairy products, meat scraps (including fish) and bones. Not

only can their decomposition result in colorful aromas, they can attract rodents. Moreover, why

propagate pestilence? Rocks, plastic, metals and Styrofoam are not going to do much for your pile, so

keep them out.

Ashes from your fireplace are basically worthless --- they are already broken down as much as possible

from heat and flames, and therefore have little potential energy to offer the microorganisms in your pile.

Besides, ash can drastically alter the pH of the soil. Avoid coal ashes because they contain sulfur and

iron that can harm your plants, and charcoal doesn’t decay too much, so don’t use them either.

If your prize tomatoes experienced their worst blight on record, you want to keep their diseased leaves

and stems out of the pile, especially if the finished compost will be returning to your vegetable garden.

Oak, southern magnolia, and holly trees are too leathery for composting, and eucalyptus leaves can be

toxic to other plants, in addition to black walnut trees, poison oak, poison ivy, and sumac. Weeds are

tricky—some weeds can be composted, but if they have begun to seed, only the hottest compost pile

will kill them. Pine needles can actually slow down your compost pile - avoid mixing too many of them

into your pile.

The following list is a cheat sheet of what not to put in your compost bin, provided for your convenience:

Meat and bones

Grease, fats, and oils

Dairy products

Human or pet feces

Diseased plants

Weeds

Citrus peels, eucalyptus leaves and pine needles

Treated wood products

Grass/tree clippings treated with chemicals

Poison Ivy and other toxic plants

Walnut shells, walnut leavesCharcoal/ ashes

Plastics and metals

Chemical products (pesticides, fertilizers)

Sanitary pads and tampons

Non-organic materials

Waxed paper

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Methods for Composting

Methods for Composting

Composting has come a long way from its ancient roots. Compost still works as the most organic

fertilizer, since it contains nearly all the nutrients a living plant needs over a period of years. Today,

composting is used for multiple treatments and is made in newer, improved containments. Although

some compost the same way they did twenty years ago, the technology and techniques have changed

enough to speed up the process and produce better results. Layering is the original method, but since

then the exciting world of composting has expanded to greater heights.

What are your compost needs? This is the first question you need to answer. If you feel queasy at the

thought of worms, then worm composting is probably not the best option for you. On the other hand, if

you don’t have a yard and plan to compost kitchen waste, vermicomposting, or using worms to

compost, is a great way to compost. Composters.com has customer service representatives that will behappy to answer any lingering questions so you can buy a compost unit with confidence. Open compost

piles aren’t that practical in a suburban or urban area. You’re much better off using a compost bin or

compost tumbler. Vermicomposting is also an excellent option and requires a worm bin.

The methods you use to compost are entirely dependent on you. It’s your garden you’re taking care

of—you should compost it as you see fit. However, Composters.com has come up with some ideas,

tips, and troubleshooting advice in case you’re confused.

Tips and Advice

Top dressing: Top dressing refers to compost being spread around soil during the growing season.

Perfect for herb and vegetable gardening, compost amends garden soil with nutrients that allow plants

to foster healthy growth while keeping plant diseases and insect problems at bay. Poor soil can beaugmented with 2-3 inches of compost, whereas one inch of compost is thick enough for spreading on

garden beds. Scatter some across the base of your plants, or sprinkle compost over your lawn. You

can even top off your household potted plants with small amounts of compost.

Side dressing: Side dressing is a good option if you’re running low on compost. Intentionally spread

compost on certain plants or rows. Work the compost into the soil around the plant, starting about an

inch from the stem.

When to spread compost: Some recommend spreading compost in late autumn and then covering it

with winter mulch like chopped leaves, while others rely on spreading it two weeks before planting time

during the spring. There’s not wrong time to distribute compost; the benefits always remain the same.

Compost as mulch: Compost can also be used as mulch, which is meant to cover all of the soil around

the plants. Mulches protect from soil erosion and help retain water while adding nutrients. Spread about

a half inch to inch thick layer of compost on bare soil under a tree and then cover with a 2-3 inch layer of

mulch to help give your trees a nutritious meal.

Topsoil/Lime: There is no need to add topsoil or lime as extras in your compost. Both can actually do

more damage than good by reducing the heat or killing beneficial organisms and losing nitrogen.

Composting in the winter: When the temperatures drop, it’s sometimes hard to get your compost to

heat up. Place your compost bin at an angle that will slant towards the sun so that your bin is still

receiving heat. If you have some, try stacking hay bales or other insulators to keep your bin warm.

Converting kitchen scraps into fertilizer: Take earthworms and introduce them to your compost bin.After the bottom layers of your compost have started to decompose, bring in about five hundred

earthworms—these “garbage men of the earth” will work through successive layers you add until your

bin is full and help break down your pile. Keep layering, keep it moist, and allow it to decompose for 5-6

weeks. If you transfer the worms into another pile or bin, you’ll be able to produce new compost every


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six weeks or so.

Composting leaves: People commonly complain that their leaves will not break down. To aid them in

decomposing, you can add extra nitrogen (manure is a good bet) to start heating them up. Another thing

you can do is shred your leaves with a leaf muncher, which will turn your leaves into super-rich mulch

you can use in your garden.

Troubleshooting

Before you take a violent rake to your problematic compost pile, take a look at our table below, listingsome of the most common problems you will run into with composting. Chances are, the problem is an

easy fix and you will be holding fistfuls of black compost gold in no time.

Problem Cause Remedy

Pile smells like sulfur Pile is too wet or not

oxgenated

Turn your pile with an aerator or

pitchfork; add dry waste to balance

the moisture

Pile smells like

ammonia

Too many nitrogen-rich

greensAdd more carbon-rich browns

Rats and squirrels and

flies, oh my!

Rodents and flies are

attracted to food odors

Bury your fresh kitchen scraps under

a layer of compost; switch tocompost bin to keep animals out

Slow decomposition

process

Too many carbon-rich

browns or pile is not

oxygenated enough

Add nitrogen-rich greens; aerate your

pile; consider an accelerators

Pile center is too dry Not enough moistureMoisten with rain water collected

from your rain barrel

Pile is too dampToo many nitrogen-rich

materials/poor drainageAdd carbon-rich browns

Pile is damp only in the

middle

Too small or cold weather

slows decomposition

Make sure pile is at least 3x3, or

smaller if it’s in a bin

Grass and leaves won’t

decompose

Poor aeration or lack of

moisture

Avoid thick layers; break up layers

and mix up pile, shred up big piecesof material

Pile smells like rancid

vinegar or rotten eggs

Not enough oxygen/ too

much moisture

Aerate pile so it can breathe; add dry

browns like leaves

Pile attracts buzzing

insects around my

compost

Normal (but annoying!)

Keep flies away by covering kitchen

scraps with paper or decomposed

waste from pile

Pile attracts fire antsPile too dry/kitchen scraps

close to surface

Keep pile moist and heated with

good mix of materials

Choosing the Right Composter

Composting is easier than ever, thanks to a variety of makes, models and colors. Choosing the right

composter for you should take some thought and evaluation. Each system has its advantages, so it’sreally all about what you need. Purchasing a compost bin or compost tumbler is as much a personal

preference choice as it is a functional choice. Some bins are educational or allow the whole family to

participate, while others require a bit more maintenance. Ask yourself questions like, “How much yard

material do I have to compost?” or “Which systems best fits my lifestyle?” There are two types of bins:

open-sided and enclosed. Open-sided bins work well in large yards and allow easier access for

unloading and loading material; enclosed bins hold heat and moisture better, thus taking less time to

decompose. If you’re going to compost a lot of kitchen waste, consider a plastic bin that will help resist

rodents better.

Compost Bins

Compost bins, while ranging from simple to complex, usually looks like a

slatted or mesh wire pen, although there are square and cone-shapedmodels out there. Compost bins help enclose your compost and hold heat

by keeping the compost close to the center. Take the time to think about

your compost bin placement—it can save you hassle and regret later. Do

not place your compost bin in a heavily shaded, stuffy, or damp area, or


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you create the perfect environment for anaerobic activity and consequent

odor problems. Avoid placing the compost bin near wells or slopes that

drain to streams or ponds. Compost piles near trees may create future

problems; if tree roots grow into the bottom of the pile, it can make turning

the compost difficult. From an aesthetic perspective, you may wish to

place the bin where it is hidden from the view of your neighbors and street.

Your chosen spot should not interfere with regular gardening and should

be accessible to you and your family year round. An ideal location is

partially sunny so that the pile can reach proper temperatures, and

shielded from high winds so it would not dry out. If kept in direct sun or wind, you will need to water thepile more regularly. Suggestions include near the garden or between a garage and house.

Composters.com has a great selection of compost bins, but the BioStack Bin is a standout, with three

bottomless tiers so you can add to them as your pile grows—it’s also pest resistant and attractive

compared to other bins on the market.

Compost Tumblers

A compost tumbler is specially designed to turn or “tumble”

the maturing compost in an internal chamber for aeration.

The constant turning keeps microbes active while maintaining

relatively high temperatures. Compost tumblers are much

easier on the eye compared to compost piles oozing black

gold in the backyard. Tumblers are also much more resistant

to pests, since they rest higher out of reach from rodents

and pets. The enclosed space of a tumbler provides

protection from the elements; in hot weather the compost

stays damp longer, while in wet weather, the compost

doesn’t become sodden. But probably the best benefit about

compost tumblers is that they are easy to keep aerated—no pitchfork or aerator necessary. Flip the

composter over, and ta-da! Your compost is now mixed, minus the labor. Now your compost is

decomposing faster without much hassle like you do with a giant pile. Composters.com also has a wide

selection of compost tumblers, and the ComposTwin Dual Tumbler features an unique two-chamber

design. This means your pile can cook your batch of compost in one section, and the other can be filled

with fresh scraps. The Bio-Orb U-Roll system requires a little more work by rolling the compost in the

orb every five to ten days. The rolling helps the compost decompose faster, plus it’s a great way towork out those arms!

Composting Accessories and other Helpful Hints

In addition to a great selection of compost bins and compost tumblers, Composters.com also features

composting supplies and accessories to help you jumpstart that pile. Compost accelerators are handy

compost accessory that stimulates microbial activity, hastening the decomposition of organic waste in

your pile. A compost aerator simplifies the composting process because it’s specifically designed to turn

and aerate the pile. They’re a sophisticated, efficient choice for hand-mixed composting. Leaf munchers

will turn dead leaves and yard debris into nutritious garden mulch. A kitchen scrap carrier is useful for

taking scraps like coffee ground and fruit peels to your compost bin outside without sticky hands or

spillage. Lawn sweepers carry up fallen yard debris, and chipper shredders turn tree limbs intobeneficial wood chips—all great browns and greens to throw into your compost pile. Rodents are

always going to be around, and while few bins are 100% rodent-proof, there are ways you can avoid

rodent entry into your humus. Make sure the bottom lip of the compost bin is buried under the soil

surface, since rodents usually enter through the bottom. Secondly, keep all lids and doors securely

fastened or locked (some thieves, like raccoons, can easily work latches). If you have a known rodent

problem, select bins that don’t have any large openings between the slats. Moreover, when discarding

your food scraps, bury them in the compost pile center so that access to them is difficult. To prevent

entry from below, buy a few yards of chicken coop wire with a small mesh diameter and line the bottom

of the bin or bury the wire a few inches below the surface. Try to avoid using poisons as pest control.

We offer eco-friendly alternatives like humane rodent traps, or you can try predator urine, hot pepper

wax, kitty litter or peppermint extract. This question has come up before: are there bear-proof

composters? Unfortunately, we are aware of no bear-proof compost bin on the market. Your best bet is

to move your compost bin indoors, choose an indoor composter from our wide selection, or use a wormcompost bin.

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Vermiculture

What is Vermicomposting?

Vermicomposting uses worms to convert your organic waste to compost rather than the microbial-

dependent decomposition process used in backyard composters. Vermicomposting enriches the soil,

improves its water retention, and enhances germination and plant growth.

The Redworm, also known as the Red Wriggler or Eisenia foetida, is the shining star of

vermicomposters, although European Night Crawlers are a fine substitute. When you throw kitchen

scraps into a worm bin, what the worms really seek to consume are the nourishing microorganisms

decomposing the scraps. These worms excrete worm castings, which is a valuable soil conditioner

because it contains eight times as many beneficial microorganisms as the food supply. Worm castings

are loaded with nutrients: they contain seven times more phosphorus, five times more nitrogen, and

eleven times more potassium than typical soil. It retains moisture in your soil and enhances the growthand yield of your garden.

One of the biggest differences that sets worm composting apart is that it can be done indoors, which

allows for year-round composting, as well as composting in small places like apartments, classrooms,

or homes without large yards. Because worms consume waste so quickly (they eat their weight in

bedding and organic waste daily), it is ideal for kitchen scrap disposal, since food would not linger long

enough to create an offensive odor. And since the worm compost bin can not be exposed to extreme

temperatures, the ideal storage spot is right in your home. Another winning benefit: as worms move

through the bedding and compost, they aerate the pile for you, eliminating the need for manual pile

turning.

If you have kids, give vermicomposting a shot. Like chocolate and peanut butter, kids and worms are a

perfect pair. Most children are inexorably drawn to the idea of "pet worms" that they can feed. It is aninvaluable educational tool that instills the importance of recycling and the fundamentals of the carbon

cycle.

How to Compost with Worms

Redworms are happy in cool, wet conditions. The bedding is

where your worms live and eat—it should be made of

material that is high in carbon and imitates dried leaves, or a

worm’s natural habitat. Place redworms in a bin with a

bedding of shredded cardboard or moistened paper that is

loose enough to make aerobic decomposition easier and asdamp as a well-wrung sponge. Keep them at a temperature

between 50-70 degrees. If you live in a hot climate, place the

bin away from direct sunlight. Avoid using glossy paper from

magazines or waxy cardboard from milk carton as bedding because they can contain toxins.

Worms enjoy a carbon to nitrogen ratio of about 30:1, plus water to keep it moist. Use shredded paper

for your “browns”, or carbon-rich material, and food scraps as your “greens”, the nitrogen-rich material.

There are two methods of feeding: top feeding and pocket feeding. Top feeding means the organic

materials are place directly on top of the existing layer of bedding. Pocket feeding is when a top layer of

bedding is maintained and food is buried beneath. We recommend the pocket feeding method. Feed

your worms one to two times a week by burying the scraps a few inches into the bedding, making sure

to bury food in different places each time. Depending on how much you feed them, the worms willgradually reproduce and die. Worms can consume about four to six pounds of food scraps in a week. A

whole mess of food at once could attract fruit flies, so increase your scraps slowly but steadily and

cover the bedding to keep them out. In four to six months, the worms should have converted the

bedding and food into castings which need to be harvested to start composting again.


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Vermicomposting bins should have holes on the side to increase aeration so the bin is ventilated and the

worms can breathe. Consistently removing the compost, adding holes to the bin or using a

continuous-flow bin will help bring in oxygen to your crawling critters. Without enough oxygen, the

compost will become anaerobic decay and produce an offensive odor. Furthermore, if you have a

non-continuous flow bin, the excess liquid needs to be drained and can be used as plant food; a

continuous flow bin doesn’t retain the excess liquid and needs extra water to keep the bedding moist.

Now comes the exciting part—reaping the fruit of your worm’s voracious appetites! There are two ways

of harvesting your castings: “Dump and Sort” and “Side by Side”.

The “Dump and Sort” method requires you to pour your compost bin contents onto a plastic sheet or

similar, waterproof platform under bright light. Separate the contents into pyramid shaped piles. Your

photosensitive worms will make their way to the bottom of the piles, and in 10-15 minutes, you can skim

your rich castings from the top of the pyramids. Repeat until only the worms remain, then place them

into your bin with fresh bedding to start the vermincomposting process again.

The “Side by Side” method is recommended for the squeamish that prefer not to touch the worms.

Begin the process by burying your organic scraps in different spots on one side of the bin over a number

of weeks. Your worms will migrate to the side with the food, and you are now free to cull the castings

on the other side. When it’s ready to harvest again, place the food on the opposite side and repeat the

process.

Once you take the time to understand the factors that create a successfully efficient worm compost bin,

you will realize how easy vermicomposting can be!

Factors

Affecting

Rate

Description

Worm

Use the Redworm or European Night Crawler for your worm compost bin.

Some worm compost bin on our site specify which to use. Always refer to

manufacturer instructions for specifics over this general site. Worms

consume their weight in carbon and nitrogen rich organic scraps every 24

hours. A good way to calculate how many worms to buy is to use a 2:1

ratio—two pounds of worms for every pound of organic kitchen scraps

your household produces daily. Beginners may want to start with twopounds and progress with their skill.

Temperature

Since worms are living creatures, their comfort is of utmost importance for

optimal worm bin operation. The ideal temperature for the bin is between

60-80°F, but you have wiggle room of 40-90°F before the worms are

adversely impacted. It is best to store the bin in a cool, dark place within

the home for stability. Do not allow the bin to freeze or overheat.

Bedding

(carbon

Content)

Bedding for your worms is important. Initially, it takes up approximately 2/3

of your new bin is space and provides half of the worm is carbon-nitrogen

diet. In addition, it offers a dark, moist hiding place for the photosensitive

worms. Shredded cardboard, paper, coir bricks, untreated wood shavings,

and chopped straw and hay are suitable bedding materials.

Water Content

If worms dry out, they die. For this reason, bedding must be kept moistbut never dripping wet, or anaerobic (oxygen-free) conditions can occur

and lead to odors and the suffocation of the worms (they can drown).

Since worms themselves produce liquid, it may be necessary to

occasionally add dry bedding to the bottom of bins that have become

saturated. In addition, make sure your bin has holes on the bottom to allow

for adequate drainage.

Food Scraps

(Nitrogen

Content)

Chop up your organic kitchen scraps and add them to your worm bin

composter, along with a grit like soil, cornmeal, or finely crushed egg

shells to help worms digest their meal in their gizzard. Feed the worms

about twice a week, between 1.5-2 lbs. of accumulated scraps, adjusting

portions to your amount of worms as necessary using the 2:1 ratio

describe above.

Oxygenation

Worms require a constant source of fresh air, breathing through their skin.

Make sure your bin has adequate ventilation holes. You will not need to

turn your compost to aerate it like backyard compost. Those gluttonous

little worms do that for you!


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Let’s review the following steps:

Choose from a wide selection of worm compost bin at Composters.com.1.

Prepare bedding for your worms, making sure it takes up at least 2/3 of the container space and is

moist but not soggy. Check out our Bedding Recipe to help.

2.

Add your Redworms or European Night Crawlers to the bedding under direct light. Due to their

photosensitivity, the worms will begin to burrow into the dark safety of their bedding.

3.

After the worms have been allowed to settle for a day or two, begin feeding them your organic

scrap waste twice weekly.

4.

When bedding has been almost entirely consumed, harvest the valuable compost.5.

Keep in mind these are general steps. For instructions that relate to your specific worm bin, refer to the

manufacturer guidelines.

Bedding Recipe

Redworms just love shredded paper bedding. First, get a pile of used office paper and remove the color

inserts, plastic windows, and glossy advertisements. Then carefully run it through a paper shredder, a

few pages at a time, so it is not too compressed - avoid using the cross-cutting models that mince the

paper into confetti sized particles. Next, moisten the paper ever so slightly - you want the bedding to be

evenly moist at all times, but NEVER dripping wet. For optimum results, mix in a tiny bit of processed

steer manure from your local garden center (do not use fresh cow spore - it will heat up too much andkill the worms). To go the extra mile for your worm new home, pick up a simple pH test kit and

occasionally monitor the acidity levels of the bedding. You want to make sure that the pH does not drop

too far or too quickly into the acid range - it could kill the worms. You can balance out the pH with a little

pulverized limestone from your local nursery. Scatter a handful or two of soil over the bedding - this will

provide grit, which aids digestion. You can also do the same thing with shredded cardboard!

What to put in your worm bin

The best and most convenient thing you can feed your worms is kitchen scraps. All vegetable and fruit

peels, pasta leftovers, coffee grounds, tea bags, and breads are good, as well as grass clippings, plant

trimmings and leaves. Start feeding your worms slowly, since it will take time for the bacteria to grow. A

small combination of gritty materials like bread and vegetables should do the trick. The worms won’t behungry because they will be eating their own bedding; after you’ve been feeding them for a while, you

can gradually start to increase their food intake, but not by too much!

The following list is a cheat sheet provided for your convenience:

Fruit and veggie scraps

Leftover pasta (without oil or sauce)

Plain rice

Egg cartons

Coffee trays

Tea bags (without staples)

Coffee grinds

Cornmeal (for grit)Soil (for grit)

Finely crushed egg shell (for grit)

Breads

Grains and cereals

Beans

Untreated sawdustGrass clippings Hair clippings Plant trimmings Paper Leaves

What NOT to put in your worm bin:

Worms cannot break down synthetic materials, bones, or heavy proteins and fats that are found in meat

scraps. Therefore, just like with a regular compost bin, you cannot feed them meats, fatty foods,

weeds, or anything involving chemicals. Don’t throw away bottle caps, plastic bags, or foil in your bin,since they won’t decompose and make your bin look like a trashcan. And don’t add manure like you

would with regular compost, since this will heat up the bin and effectively kill your worms. Worms also

dislike garlic and onion, as well as very spicy foods. If you notice any bad smells, cut back on the

amount of food or cut it into smaller pieces. More leafy vegetables and less citrus fruits can also help


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cut down on any odd stenches.

The following list is a cheat sheet provided for your convenience:

Garlic

Onion

Meats and bones

Dairy products

Oily food

Heavily spiced or hot foods

Anything with insecticide or chemicals

Twigs

Metal and foils

Plastics

Weeds

Manure

Garden soil

Methods for Vermicomposting

Vermicompost, like we mentioned earlier, is a fantastic soil nutrient. You can distribute the compost

over your flower beds or garden by lightly digging it into your soil. It’s very potent, so you should

typically use half of what you would have used with normal compost. If you use it on potted plants, adda thin layer to the top—no more than 25% of the potting soil should be compost. Try a little

experimentation to find the best results for your botanic beauties.

As long as it is stored in an airtight container, the vermicompost can keep for approximately a year.

Once it dries out, it loses a lot of its nutritional value and resists moisture.

Tips and Advice

When you go on vacation: Your worms will be fine for 2-3 weeks, and would not exhibit too much

separation anxiety. If your cruise to Jamaica is longer than 3 weeks, you will need to enlist the aid of a

friend to worm-sit.

Rodents and pests: Since vermicomposting is done primarily indoors, you shouldn’t be attracting

rodents or pests. However, if you are putting meat or lots of kitchen waste into the worm bin your

chances of attracting unwelcome pests increases. Using a sealed bin will help keep out pesky critters.

Odor: Like backyard composting, a properly maintained worm compost bin will not stink. If your bin

does smell, it indicates anaerobic conditions. Common reasons for the occurrence include overfeeding

your worms and bins that are too wet. Make sure the worms have finished all the kitchen scraps before

adding more, and gently fluff bedding to aerate. Add more bedding or use a turkey baster to suck up

excess moisture. Other reasons could include an excess of greens—neutralize the odor by adding

carbon-rich browns like paper and dried leaves.

Other creatures in my worm bin: Once your worms are thriving, you may notice other creatures

rummaging in your bin. Springtails, pill bugs and millipedes are just a few, and they are beneficial, as

they help breakdown the materials in the bin.

Worms, Worm Composters and Accessories

Composters.com features a great selection of vermicomposting bins and worm accessories that will

help make the process easy and fun!

Worm composters are designed to be spaces your worms can live in harmony, happily munching away

on your kitchen leftovers. The type of bin you need depends on how much waste you throw away. If you

feed a large family every night, chances are you need a larger bin. If you vermicompost from an

apartment, you probably don’t need a huge bin to do the job. The Expandable Worm Tower, which can

hold about 5-8 lbs. of waste, separates food scraps from finished compost using an upward migration

system so that when the top worms finish digesting, they will go towards the new food at the top,

leaving castings behind. The Advanced BioSafe System, on the other hand, has the capacity to handle

15-20 lbs. of waste per day and works great both indoors and outdoors. Though we carry all sorts of


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worm bins, you’ll need to figure out which one is perfect for your vermicomposting needs. And if you

need troubleshooting or have a question, the dual-sided Rott Wheeler Quick Reference Guide is an

outstanding source that’s made for beginners so it’s easy to understand and works well as a teaching

aide.

Once you have your worm bin, you need worms to put in it! Redworms or Nightcrawlers are the ideal

worms for vermiculture. A pound of worms can range from 100-1000 worms, depending on season,

harvesting mechanism, temperature, and species; a pound is enough to eat up a half-pound of garbage.

How many worms you need depends on how much kitchen waste you produce each day. Add worms by

scattering them over the top, as they will work their way down to the center to avoid the light. Wormsare hermaphrodites and will breed in your bin. However, worms regulate their population to suit their

conditions and many eggs are lost in the compost harvest. You should have no problem with over

breeding.

Once your bin is set up, your bedding is made, and your worms are safely inside, store your bin

someplace within the home where it will be of convenience to you and provide a dark, quiet spot for

your worms. They are not fond of bright light, noise, and vibration, and many people find success storing

them in a closet, kitchen, or basement. You can keep them outside in most places during the spring,

summer and fall seasons. Make sure the place is cool and shaded. However, bring them inside during

the winter. Never allow your bin to freeze!

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Home Links

Compost Tea

Compost Tea

Compost tea is best described as a liquid soil conditioner for your garden and lawn. For the organic

gardener, it is just one more way to utilize the compost harvested from your compost bin, compost

tumbler or worm compost bin. It can be used either as a spray for leaves or soil, depending on where

your plants have problems. Compost tea can also provide a quick boost to ailing house plants or to

seedlings and transplants. When you’re done with the tea, you can use the dregs as mulch in the

garden.

Making compost tea is a snap! Simply steep your compost

or vermicompost in water to create hearty liquid sustenance

for your plants. Grab a large five gallon bucket or similar

container and fill it loosely with only your finest batches

compost. If you have a poor compost yield, your tea will be

similarly lackluster. Add water to cover your compost, and

then stir the bucket contents daily for a week. When the tea

is ready, simply drain the liquid from the bucket, now awash

in the nutrients and minerals it leeched from your compost.

Use a strainer or cheesecloth if you plan to spray your tea

from bottle to remove clogging residue. Because the tea is

so potent, make sure you dilute your liquid loveliness by

mixing ten parts water to one part compost tea before

applying to plants. If you do not, you risk burning your plants with the tea high nitrogen content.

Making vermicompost tea is a similar process. Add two tablespoons of your worm castings to a liter of water and let it sit for one day, shaking occasionally to facilitate mixing. The tea is now ready to be

sprinkled on your plants, straight from the bottle.

Compost tea and traditional solid compost both accomplish the same goal of nourishing and improving

soil conditions. However, you may find one meets your organic gardening goals more than the other. If

you are looking for an immediate boost in your plants, compost tea is the way to go. As a liquid, it is

immediately absorbed by your plants, and can be applied to the soil, or the roots and leaves of your

foliage. However, its liquid form is a double-edge sword, requiring frequent applications to balance how

easily the tea is washed away. In addition, just as plants treated with good compost tea derived from a

proper compost batch show immediate benefits, a toxic or weak compost tea from a poor compost

batch will become instantly apparent in your garden. A tea with too much nitrogen, salts and unwanted

microorganisms can burn or impair your gardening efforts. Compost tea is not the most forgiving form of compost application.

Solid compost offers more room for error, and does not need frequent application to perform its soil

enriching duty. However, it would not be the instant perk some gardeners seek in their flower beds and

gardens.

Unlike vermicompost, compost tea does not have a long shelf life. The more quickly it is used, the

greater its potency. If you must store it, keep it in a shaded area with ventilation.

Pet Waste Management

A pet waste digester system is similar to a composter, except instead of microbial activity leading todecomposition, special digesters with non-toxic enzymes work to break down your pet poop into

completely benign residue. This liquid then enters the surrounding soil, cleanly and with no risk to

children or pets. This process keeps hazardous waste materials out of our landfills and water treatment

facilities. Most systems come with a plastic or metal receptacle you partially bury into your yard, and


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the liquid or powder digester you throw in to break down the waste. Today is systems are compact,

aesthetically pleasing, and many sport foot-pedal operation of the receptacle lid, for greater

convenience. The receptacles are designed to control odor, complete with a lid. Once the enzymes

begin to break down the pet waste, the odor is neutralized.

You absolutely cannot put pet waste or human excrement into a backyard compost bin. It is all about

safety, safety, safety. For the standard backyard compost bin or vermicomposter set-up, there is no

guarantee that the pile will heat up enough from the microbial activity to destroy any harmful pathogens

in the waste. Imagine a nick on your hand caused by yard work. Now imagine that hand dipping into

contaminated compost—not a pretty picture. Unless your compost has been specifically designed andallocated for fecal management, steer clear and keep your composter feces free!

Composters.com does sell quality pet waste composters, and it is a valid, eco-friendly way to deal with

pet waste. However, until one is well-versed in standard vermicomposting or pet waste digester

systems, we recommend holding off. Pet waste digesters are designed as a low maintenance

alternative to trashing your pet’s waste. If you are a seasoned compost participant looking for a change,

than the pet waste composter is for you.

Sources:

http://www.composters.com (original guide)

http://www.compostguide.com/

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Compostinghttp://www.howtocompost.org/info/info_composting.asp

http://lancaster.unl.edu/pest/resources/vermicompost107.shtml

http://vegweb.com/composting/

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compost manual: a complete guide to composting

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