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DIAGNOSTIC STUDY

of

AARI TARI CLUSTER (ZARDOZI WORK)

In

JAIPUR

Submitted

to

Commissioner of Industries

Government of Rajasthan , Jaipur

Global Consultants

Kamtech Associates Pvt. Ltd (ISO 9001:2000 Certified Company)

218-307, Shri Gopal Tower, Near Ahinsa Circle,

C- Scheme, Jaipur-302001, INDIA

Phone -0091-141-2377559, Fax. 0091-141-2371308

E-mail: [email protected]

www.kamtechassociates.com

British actress and model Elizabeth Hurley or Liz Hurley turned up at a charity

bash in New York in a pale pink and green green sari, made by Aari tari

(Zardozi) artisans from Jaipur . This art has crossed all borders and becoming a

part of celebrities wardrobe sari, made by Aari Tari

Diagnostic Report Aari Tari (Zardozi) Cluster Jaipur

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

It is a great pleasure for us to present this diagnostic study report on AARI TARI

CLUSTER (ZARDOZI WORK) which has its roots from the Mugal era and today

has approx 25,000 families of artisans working in this work mostly concentrated in

Ghat Gate, Ramganj, Chaar Darwaja, Bas Bandanpura, Brahmpuri, Ramgarh More

and adjoining areas. Of all the crafts of the country, Zardozi seems to have

flourished and survived to the present day like few others.

Today several families have revived this old craft to supply exquisite zari

embroidered bridal outfits and salwar kameezes to boutiques around the country.

These days it is used to make exquisite evening dresses, coats, fashion accessories

like purses, handbags, belts, shoes; ceremonial adornments like badges and insignia;

furnishing accessories like cushion covers, wall hangings and boxes etc.

We wish to offer our sincere thanks to all the artisans and show room owners

specially M/s Rana Sarees and Mr. Hazi Abdula of National Embroidery Zari works

a veteran of this art and other showroom owners and artisans who have given

inputs and contributed directly to in terms of providing the information and data for

this cluster study.

We are also thankful to office of the Commissioner of Industries for awarding us

the diagnostic study, which is going to be very important for future planning for this

sector.

Document ID KA/06-07/CI/ATZ

Category Confidential

Prepared by Kalpana Gupta

Checked by Ajay K Gupta

Date 16.02.2007


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S.NO. CONTENT PAGE NO.

1 INTRODUCTION OF CLUSTER

1.1 Cluster at a glance 4

1.2 Aim of Cluster 6

1.3 Historical Background 8

1.4 Cluster Map 9

1.5 Main Activities 11

1.6 Industry Analysis 13

1.7 Main Turning Point 20

1.8 Social Structure 21

1.9 Geographical Spread 21

1.10 Process for Diagnostic Study 22

2 THE PRESENT INFRASTRUCTURE AND SWOT ANALYSIS

2.1 Available Infrastructure 23

2.2 Marketing & Distribution Channel 23

2.3 The Contribution of Cluster in Local Economy 24

2.4 The Stake Holders of Cluster 25

2.5 SWOT Analysis 26

3 THE ACTION PLAN FOR CLUSTER DEVELOPMENT

3.1 The Main Problems of Cluster 29

3.2 Suggestive Elements 30

3.3 Available Information Channel 32

3.4 Proposed Action Plan 32

4 PROPOSED WORKING PLAN WITH FLOW CHART

4.1 Working Plan With Budget 35

4.2 Flow Chart 37

4.3 Expected Outcome 38

4.4 Implementing Agency 38

4.4 Executive Summary of Diagnostic Study 39

5 PHOTOGRAPHS 40

6 REFERENCES 46

7. SURVEY FORM 47


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1. INTRODUCTION OF CLUSTER

1.1 Cluster at a glance

“Clusters” are sectoral and geographical concentrations of enterprises, which

produce and sell a range of related or complementary products and are, thus, faced

with common challenges and opportunities. These concentrations give rise to

external economies (such as the emergence of specialized suppliers of raw materials

and components or the growth of a pool of sector-specific skills) and favor the

emergence of specialized services in technical, managerial, and financial matters.

Aari Tari , Zari, Gota, Kinari & Zardozi

Aari-Tari (Zardozi), it is the art of making beautiful embroidery with gold or silver

'taars' or thin wires.

Jaipur, wrapped in the mystique, enhanced with the romance of fabled crafts, has

one of the finest traditions of embroidery in the world. It has long been known for

its embroidery with gold and silver threads called Zari.

Zardozi the traditional art of court embroidery is the sheer magic of nimble fingers

and imaginative designs, envisaged by the ensemble of lustrous metallic wire which

was traditionally the silver wire coated/plated with gold, silk threads, beads and

stones.

Zari is gold, and zardozi embroidery is the glitteringly ornate, heavily encrusted

gold thread work practiced in Jaipur and a few other cities of India. To most

foreigners - used to sleek, understated wear - the north Indian bride’s lehanga, choli

and dupatta, heavily embroidered with gold and silver threads comes as a visual

shock. Either real silver thread, gold-plated thread or an imitation which has a


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copper base gilded with gold or silver colour, is used for zari.

Traditionally made for Mughal and Rajput nobility, it has now been officially

adopted as bridal wear by anyone who can afford it. Of course, the days of using

real gold and silver thread are now history. What you can get, however, is synthetic

or ‘tested’ zari embroidery.

Aari Tari is done primarily by the Muslim cobbler community in Jaipur. The

designs are of Mughal origin but modernized with the time since the art was at one

time patronized by them. By using subtle gradations of color the figures and motifs

in the designs can be highly representational. Aari at times is also called zari work.

In Jaipur mostly Muslim work women work in this art on job work basis . The

show room owners who ultimately sell these exotic products give the work through

the agents who then get these various work done by artisans in the areas. Today has

approx 25,000 families of artisans working in this work mostly concentrated in

Ghat Gate, Ramganj, Chaar Darwaja, Bas Bandanpura, Brahmpuri, Ramgarh Mode,

and adjoining areas.

The U.P, Bihar, and Bengali families have now adopted this art and mostly work

in Jaipur spread in outskirt colonies as well. Of all the crafts of the country, Zardozi

seems to have flourished and survived to the present day like few others. The art

which earlier only the rich could afford , today has become affordable by a common

man who can buy any fashion product made of Aari taari or Zari as low as Rs.100/-


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1.2 Aim of Cluster

Jaipur is well known for its age-old form of Aari Tari and heavy Zari work

(earlier patronized by Rajputs and Mughals for upper class women fashion wear).

Today the main market for this art is also higher range sarees, bridal sarees, bridal

wear, and any fashion items with lot of glitter and statement.

The real profit is pocketed by the show room owners and these artisans are

surviving meager income.

The diagnostic study conducted by us identified an unexploited capacity for the

traditional artisan’s family and more and more new families which are joining this

traditional art which is flourishing due to increased business and more and more

innovative usages in other products.

Presently the work is mostly distributed through agents of the show rooms and

exporters who pocket the large profits where as the artisans sometimes don’t get

even their hard work day labor due to so called rejections in the name of quality.

The vision and action plan to be developed for the cluster envisaged the

functionally designed common facilities center having facility of Adda and work

tables, raw material procurement services and new designs. Provisions for storage

of raw material and finished goods along with sales counters and business

transactions will also be made.

Such a center will attract business service providers who can transact business more

efficiently with units operating from a common functional area. Likewise health and

hygiene conditions would improve once the living and working areas are separated

in a carefully planned way. Apart from this there will be space to accommodate

probable growth of the firms over the next decade.


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“This Cluster will establish itself in the international and high-end domestic market

for its eco-friendliness and ethnicity of the products.”

The aim of the cluster is envisaged the revelation of the traditional form of

production and the improvement of the living standards of the artisans by:

� Creating an environment of mutual trust among competing.

� Reducing the cluster disarticulation (i.e. lack of linkages among the different

cluster actors).

� Enhancing the design, usage of new glittering items in the zari and marketing

capacity of the artisans .

� Designed training course.

� Improvement in living standard

� Technology Up gradation for ergonomically designed Addas and work tables

and hand sewing fixtures for productivity improvement

Vision of the Cluster

The long-run vision for the Aari Taari of Jaipur should be as: “The Aarti Taari

industry of Jaipur will establish itself in the international and high-end

domestic market for its ethnicity and usages in variety of fashion articles ”.

Backward linkages in the form of availability of working capital, infrastructure

support, technical development and enterprising organisations will strengthen the

process.


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1.3 Historical Background

Zardozi is an ancient Persian embroidery form (Zar in Persian means gold and Dozi

is embroidery) that has been passed down for generations. It reached its peak under

the patronage of Mughal Emperor Akbar. It saw a decline during the reign of

Aurangzeb as the royal patronage and favor stopped and the art was too expensive

and the precious metals too rare to carry on.

The rarity of precious metal led to the use of copper with gold or silver polish or the

silk thread. Now the embroidery style is back in bloom. It is a must for any Indian

wedding trousseau.

The historical accounts of this craft are shrouded in romantic stories and no accurate

data is available. An imperial craft brought to India by Delhi's first Turko-Afghan

sultans in the 12th century, zardozi became equally popular with the wealthy Hindu,

Muslim and European elite down the ages. History says that from the 13th century,

the craftspeople who worked with this medium, setting seed pearls and precious

stones with fine gold and silver wire, were known as zardos workers.

During the reign of the Rajputs, Aari tari artisans were called in Jaipur from Agra

and it was then that this work gained popularity among the Rajput Emperors as

well. So, with the onset of time the art of Aari tari started gaining popularity among

the masses and today its ethnicity is well-known in all sections of the society.


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1.4 Cluster Map

Present Cluster

In the present scenario, local shopkeepers having retail outlets, agents and exporters

are ruling the markets; the artisans depend on their orders and virtually having job

work style of functioning. In many cases even the fabric is given by the buyer and

the artisans only perform the zari work or say Aari tari work as per the buyers

orders and get paid marginally only to survive.

The artisans neither have finances nor market in hand so as to invest in this

business, which they have inherited from their forefathers. The traders mostly

control the trade and agents and the artisans do not have any stake.

The present practices cannot be called or termed as organized cluster, only the chain

of agents or traders having their permanent artisans who work for them for their job

orders the scene.

Shiny stones, beads,

coweries, sequins, zari,

sitara & plastic beads

Suppliers

Raw material

Cloth from

Delhi & Jaipur.

25,000

families

doing

Aari tari

(zardozi)

in Jaipur.

Banks/ Local

money lenders

Contractors

Direct Buyers

Through Exhibitions

and Online via

Internet

S

H

O

W

R

O

O

M

S

C

O

N

S

U

M

E

R


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Main Locations: Ghat gate, Ramganj market, Char Darwaja, Brahmpuri

Ramgarh More, Bas Badan pura

S. No. Facility Details

1 Roads

Bus stand – 2-3 Kms.

Well connected

2 Railway station Jaipur junction – 4-5 Kms.

3 Raw material From Jaipur ( local market), Delhi

and Barelli

4 Finished good Jaipur ( Johari bazaar, Lal ji sand

ka Rasta), Delhi

5 Transport Transport nagar (Jaipur) - 3 Kms.

6 Banks Mostly available in the areas

7 Water, Electric supply Regular


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1.5 Main Activities

The entire process of Aari Taari is summarized under:

1.5.a Designing

Earlier the designs used to be very Mughal in nature, comprising of floral and leaf

patterns derived from that era. With modern influences, the patterns have changed.

More and more geometric designs are used but flowers, petals and leaves still find

their place. The design is first traced on a tracing sheet and holes are made along the

traced pattern using a needle.

1.5.b. Tracing

The fabric on which the embroidery is to be done is placed on a flat table and the

tracing sheet is placed in position. A solution of kerosene and Robin blue is made.

A wad of cloth is dipped into this solution and wiped against the tracing so that the

ink seeps through the holes to trace the design onto the fabric. This is then sent to

the embroidery workers.

1.5.c. Setting the Adda/Frame

The fabric to be embroidered is stretched taut over a frame called the ADDA. This

concept has evolved from a knockdown camp bed called the khatia used in rural

areas. The adda follows the assembly and tightening principles of the khatia, and

gives the cloth a uniform tension. It consists of four wooden spars (sometimes,

bamboo is used for the end members) resting on wooden posts. The frame can be

made to fit any size of fabric.

The artisan sits on the floor behind the wooden frame working on the piece of cloth.

The frame itself is quite large, and can comfortably accommodate five to seven

artisans working together on the pre-traced designs.


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1.5.d. The Embroidery

A simple needle or a crochet like hook fixed to a wooden stick called the ARI are

used for the embroidery. The word aari comes from the hooked needle used in the

embroidery called the aar. It is similar to the one used in crochet. The aari greatly

enhances the speed of the work, as it enables the artisan to pass the threads both

above and below the fabric. The ari has its disadvantages though. One tug at a loose

thread can spell disaster to the entire design as it can unravel in a matter of minutes.

The needle and thread method is far more dependable, but is very time and labor

consuming, and hence far more expensive.

The fabric is first fixed over the frame often made of bamboo. The pattern is traced

on it and the embroidery work begins. A needle with a hooked end and Zari (gold or

silver) or cotton or silk thread are used. Aari looks like a fine chain stitch. The

needle is pushed through the fabric. From behind, thread is pushed into the hook.

When the needle is pulled up again, it comes up with a loop. The next time, the

needle goes through the loop and comes up with another loop through the previous

loop. The same process is repeated. The stitches are very fine and small.

All kinds of combinations are used to add to the grandeur of zardozi. A little bit of

thread work here or a few sequins or semi precious stones added there, can make

the fabric appealing while giving it a unique exclusivity.

If the design is smaller, then a smaller metal frame can also be used instead of the

wooden planks. This is much more comfortable when the embroidery is to be

focused in a particular area of fabric.The smallest work takes a day to be completed

and the most exclusive can take up to ten days. Each piece is charged per design

and the material used. For bridal wear, the embroidery is usually very intricate and

neatly done with the finest dabka, coweries and stones. For such work, the

embroidery could cost as much as Rs. 10,000-15,000/-.


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1.6 Industry Analysis

Jaipur, wrapped in the mystique, enhanced with the romance of fabled crafts, has

one of the finest traditions of embroidery in the world. It has long been known for

its embroidery with gold and silver threads called Zari. Zari is gold, and zardozi

embroidery is the glitteringly ornate, heavily encrusted gold thread work.

Today several families have revived this old craft to supply exquisite zari

embroidered bridal outfits and salwar kameezes to boutiques around the country.

These days it is also being used to make exquisite evening dresses, coats, fashion

accessories like purses, handbags, belts, shoes; ceremonial adornments like badges

and insignia; furnishing accessories like cushion covers, wall hangings and boxes

etc.

Of all the crafts of the country, Zardozi seems to have flourished and survived to the

present day like few others.

REGIONS BEST KNOWN FOR ZARDOZI WORK IN INDIA

• Jaipur

• Agra

• Delhi

• Farrukhabad

• Jammu, Kashmir

• Kolkata

• Lucknow

• Varanasi

• Hyderabad

Zardozi Embroidery

Zardozi the imperial metal embroidery adorned the costumes of the royalty, wall

hanging, scabbards, walls of the regal tents and the rich trappings of elephants and

horses. Intricate patterns in gold and silver, studded with pearls and precious stones

enhanced the beauty of rich and glowing silk, velvet, and brocade.


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Process Stitches and Styles

Zardozi, a more elaborate version of zari, involves the use of gold threads, spangles,

beads, seed pearls, wire, gota and kinari. Metal ingots are melted and pressed

through perforated steel sheets, to be converted into wires. They are then hammered

to the required thinness. Plain wire is called badla, and when wound round a thread,

it is called kasav. Smaller spangles are called sitara, and tiny dots made of badla are

called mukaish.

Akin to applique, gota work involves placing woven gold cloth onto other fabric to

create different surface textures. Kinari, or edging, as the word suggests, is the

fringed or tasseled border decoration. This art is predominantly practiced by

Muslim craftsmen.

The zari thread or the metallic thread is quite commonly used in this style of

embroidery. It is done with colored thread as well using color gradations to make

the motifs and figures highly representational.

Zari embroidery is done with a crochet hook using the metallic thread and appears

like chain stitch. Zardozi is an extension of the same. Zari elements like coiled wire,

dabka, tilla, beads etc are used to create the motifs. Zardozi can alternatively be

called metallic applique embroidery.

The most prevalent zardozi elements segments of dabkaa, a tightly wound spiral

metal, Kora, a heavier and darker dabkaa a square sided dabkaa that is wiry and

erratic in appearance, sitaaras, round sequins, glass and plastic beads and kasab,

silver or gold-plated silver thread.


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The process involves tracing out the design on the cloth preferably rich fabrics like

silk, satin, velvet, chiffon etc. The fabric is stretched over the wooden frame and the

embroidery work begins. Each zardozi element is picked up by the needle and

incorporated appropriately into the pattern by pushing the needle in the fabric.

The process of creating zari threads and zardozi elements was rather complicated

earlier. It needed a lot of patience and precision. Today the modern means may have

made the task a little easier but still the adeptness and delicate handling remains the

same.

Zardozi and zari garments have become very popular and make elegant evening and

ceremonial ware. The art is now being used for soft furnishing products also.

Thousands of master craftsmen create Zari articles with other establishments

on all kind of fabrics and costumes which are adorned by connoisseurs both in

India & abroad works can not describe the rich beauty of this exquisite work.

Zari Sarees

India has long been known for its golden thread of zari. Even in the ancient times,

zari was known to adorn the attire of Gods and thus holds a distinguished place

among all the crafts. The same heavenly feel is brought alive for in the form of a

never before ethnic Indian zari sarees range.

A superbly crafted and rich collection comprising mainly of Banarasi sarees with

heavy zari work, the wedding zari saris have intricate embroidered patterns

highlighted with embroidery material like stars and spangles, chalak, kinari, salma

etc.; which give a new definition to the golden and silver wires that form the base of

Zari.


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Artisans: Nargis, Seema parvani, Saira bano

Ari-tari work on salwar suit

Address: Koyale walo ki gali, Ramgang market, Jaipur

Monthly income: Rs.2000.00 to 2500.00

The artisans here in Jaipur are experts in making embroidered Indian sarees in resham, gota patti,

zari, gold & silver threads work to give you a never before collection of embroidered fancy.


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Artisans: Mrs. Musbir bano w/o Jakir hussain

working with Mojari (Jutiya)Ari-tari work


Monthly income: Rs.3100.00 to Rs. 3300.00

Artisans: Mr. Ishad Bhai & other artisans working with Mojari (Jutiya)

Address: 307,Koyale walo ki gali, Ramgang market, Jaipur

Monthly income: Rs. 4000.00 to Rs. 4200.00


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Zari Juties

In Jaipur, Aari tari work has been done on Juties since the Mughal era. This work

was initially done by the Muslim artisans. At present this work is mainly done by

Muslim women. There’s no such special training given to these workers it is carried

forward from generation to generation.

Needles to say that Zari items are 100% exportable. According to a rough

assessment about 250-300 Delhi, Bombay & Jaipur based suppliers are

engaged in exporting this especiality of Jaipur to many foreign countries like

Germany, U.S.A. & West Asia etc., amounting to nearly Rs. 50 millions.

Raw materials Procurement

Medium selection (E.g. Sari, salwar suit, cloth)

Selection of Design

Framing on Carchope (looming)

Making a design block on medium

Put on block size e.g. (tikki, stone, tari, sitara)

Croshieya ( Ari- needle) stitching

Finishing

Product is ready for sale


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The zardozi thread comes in long curled strips of shiny gold wire and is sold by

weight. It has to be cut to size depending on the design. A variety of materials are

used for the embroidery : zari, sequins, coweries, beads, shiny stones that look like

diamonds, dabka, sitara. They are all purchased from the local market. All these

embellishments are generally bought in bulk and stored for later use.

The artisans buy ordinary raw materials directly but in less quantity as they do not

have enough money to purchase these materials in bulk. The raw materials are

easily available in areas like Ram Ganj & Char Darwaza.

Tools Used

Frame/Adda : This is a wooden or metal frame over which the cloth is pulled

tightly, so that it doesn’t move while the artisans are at work. This also enables

faster movement and clear vision. It generally costs up to Rs. 1200-1500.

Needle: The embroidery is done with a needle. A hooked awe kind of needle called

ari can be used, or a simple stitching needle. The needle used is the smallest

available, generally numbered nine. But it could depend on the design and the

thread used. The hooked needle costs Rs. 15-25 whereas simple needle costs Rs. 3-5

per needle.

Scissors: A pair of scissors is an essential tool of the workers involved in the

embroidery. It is required time and again to cut the threads and loose ends. It costs

around Rs. 60-70.


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1.7 Main Turning Point

By the end of the Mughal era, the art declined because of its high cost and the lack

of precious metals for the purpose of embroidery. It was again revived in the

twentieth century.

Today, like everything else zardozi also has its limitations : being sold in the market

at a much cheaper cost, made out of copper and brass wires plated with gold. The

latest additions are colored zardozi with a plastic base. Far more pocket friendly,

this new zardozi lasts longer and is lighter to wear.

At times the base fabrics have plastic replacements in place of what was pure gold

and the motifs are so far removed from the original, that the product does not

resemble what had at one time bedazzled visitors to the royal courts of India. The

days of using real gold and silver threads are now history. What one can get

however, is synthetic or ‘tested’ zari embroidery. The richness of gold may no

longer grace the work of zardozi craftsman, but the glitter and glamour endures –

hopefully it will for the years to come. Zardozi is as tenacious as the wires the

craftsmen work with.

In the mean time exporters and the boutique owners were able to recapture some of

the market intelligence that was lost by the artisans during the transition from local

to national and international markets.


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1.8 Social Structure

The cultural environment of Rajasthan, the colours associated with the people’s

traditional costumes and the designs related to the diversity of their local customs,

behavior and broadly to the caste system then, all led the society to observe

distinctions. However, these distinctions have over the last several decades gone

into oblivion.

The Aari tari work has a very old history of creating sheer magic of nimble fingers

and imaginative designs also termed as zardozi. The artisans of Jaipur or even those

settled here from various parts of Northern and Western India, have gracefully

carried forward this traditional art form, over successive generations.

There are about 25,000 families each engaged in traditional zardozi work. The

industry continues to be based around the families. All the members of family find

themselves engaged in their respective units in one way or the other.

1.9 Geographical Spread

Jaipur has remained a centre of historical prominence for Aari tari work. Presently

Ghat gate, Ramganj market, Char Darwaja, Brahmpuri, Ramgarh More and Bas

Badan pura


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1.10 Process for Diagnostic Study

For this diagnostic study following methodology was adopted: Collecting the data

about the Aari tari traditional art

• Meeting the artisans and Surveys

• Studying the international Markets

• Colleting the data from various Government and Non Government sources.

• Compilation of data

• Scrutinizing of data

• Selection of relevant data

• Report writing

Identification of cluster & objective of the study

Preparation of format & data sheet (survey form)

Data collection & fieldwork

Interview, fieldwork, & survey

Analysis of data

Selection of relevant data

Report writing

Process for diagnostic study


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2 .THE PRESENT INFRASTRUCTURE AND SWOT ANALYSIS

2.1 Available Infrastructure.

This art is survived by traditions inherited from the forefathers and the artisans who

are working in this area are mostly as family traditional business and there have not

been any substantial infrastructure investments whatever the traditional ways

equipment and tools, there has not been any up gradations and the process is still

mostly manual with ancient methods.

All the artisans in Jaipur work in their houses itself and this business has not yet

been able to come under the industry tag. So, there is NO INFRASTRUCTURE till

now.

2.2. Marketing & distribution channel

There are two types of markets viz. Domestic and Export. In the domestic and

export markets, the traders based in the local market of Jaipur and in Delhi, market

the product. The artisans do the work on the fabric supplied to him.

The distribution channel which connects the production channels to the market are

different for different buyers whom we can define in three broad categories of

Domestic Buyer, foreign buyer and foreign tourist buyer.

Exposure of artisans to High-end Domestic Market:

The domestic market includes areas like Johri Bazar, Chaura Rasta, Ghat Gate etc.

Some major showrooms which are directly linked with the artisans are Rana Saree

Centre, Rooplaxmi, Nikhar , Pratap Sons, Sindoori, Indra lok, Amardeep, Suruchi

saree emporium, Kala Mandir, Roop Milan etc.


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Marketing at International Level:

Targeting of markets, training for Export Marketing and participation in

International trade fairs .

2.3 The Contribution of Cluster in local Economy

Evidence suggests that in an increasing global economy, efficient local business

systems (clusters or industrial districts) tend to play a major role.

Cluster’s main concentration focused largely on local economy within a relatively

limited geographical area. It’s improved the performance of artisans. Nearly 70% of

the work is done by the people of the Muslim community and rest 30% includes

artisans who are Bengali, Bairwa, Bihari or Bareilley.

It speeds up the dissemination of best practices because of the pervasiveness of

demonstration effect, and allows for a distribution of the fixed costs of interventions

among a large number of beneficiaries.

Cluster provides employment, one of the most basic need of people and holds

importance; helps maintain sustained growth for improving quality of life, positions

as a self-reliant industry, from the production of raw materials to the delivery of

finished products, with substantial value-addition at each stage of processing; and

contributes in growth of the local economy .

It also give rise to external economies (e.g. specialized suppliers of raw materials,

specific skills etc.).Favor the emergence of specialized technical, administrative and

financial services. Create a conducive ground for the development of inter firm


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cooperation and specialization as well as of cooperation among public and private

local institutions to promote local production, innovation and collective learning.

Development of efficient and effective linkages between producers, buyers,

suppliers, service providers, technical and financial support institutions is essential.

Some effects of cluster in local Economy are as follows:

� Economic stability for the poor families objectives

� Reduce dependence on expensive moneylenders

� Facilitate access to financial services

� Build entrepreneurial and technical skills of the rural poor

� Generate employment, especially for women

� Increase the productivity

� Direct access to the growing local and International market

2.4. The Stakeholders of Cluster

� Artisans

� Show Room owners

� Raw material suppliers

� Domestic Buyer

� Foreign Buyer

� Buying Agents

� Exporters


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2.5 SWOT Analysis

Strengths:

1. A heritage craft practiced by centuries in this region. Artisan Traits are

available in the artisans since time immemorial.

2. Availability of a large number of artisans at the same place.

3. Skills of the people.

4. Ethnic designs and associated reputation.

5. Direct contacts with show room owners and with the exporters.

6. Variety of glittering threads and other items replacing the precious metal

threads like gold and silver.

7. Increasing Marriage market economics and variety of sarees and designer

fabric being used for Zardozi.

Weakness:

1. Lack of enough space in cities, the Aari Tari workers mostly ladies work in

small rooms in old city where adequate light or ventilations is lacking.

2. More and more workers are joining this profession mostly from Bihar and

Bengal community thus effecting the daily average earnings of the individual

artisan.

3. They are no ways to improve the designs according to the latest trends.

4. Lack of Organizational skills.

5. Lack of financial resources leading the artisans to become dependent on the

the show room owners.

6. Poor marketing skills, and non access to direct market, organized players like

showroom owners and exporters only earn the real money where as these

artisans don’t even some time get the basic daily labor.

7. Lack of R & D for upgrading production process.

8. Lack of Quality assurance mechanism.


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9. No – Government Policy & No set Infrastructure.

10. The difference between the selling price of the finished commodity and the

actual price is too high. This surplus money goes into the hands of the

showroom owners and this is the main reason behind the deprived condition

of the artisans as they are paid very meager amounts in comparison to the

tedious work they do.

11. Sometimes the showroom owners don’t pay the artisans at all by rejecting

their designs and on the contrary sell those ‘rejected pieces’ at discounted

rates in their showrooms. Due to this they are at loss as, the money they had

spent to purchase the raw materials is spent from their pockets.

Opportunities:

1. World wide acceptance of the Aari tari (zardozi) products.

2. Growing local & International Market.

3. Easier access to world market through internet.

4. Availability of financial institutions, banks, and Government departments.

5. The Aari Tari (Zardozi) work is now increasingly used in other form of

handicrafts industry like gift articles, purse, bags, designer jooties. Similarily

there are variety of raw material combinations in plastic, metal and other

glittering items which are increasing used in this art.

6. The increasing Indian Marriage market and thrust on costly Sarees, designer

bride and bride groom wear, is adding more and more value added costly

product using Aari tari ( Zardozi) art. Thus the local as well as export market

is showing regular increase and there are good opportunity for the growth of

this segment.


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Threats:

1. The traditional culture of the artisans and no standards in practice puts lot of

pressure in the quality. The quality of fabric used in costly Zari Saree is very

high and due to some or other reason incase some defect is observed after

the Aari Tari is done then rejection is high.

2. Since the final products are very costly so the quality control, design, color,

raw material used etc are need to be of consistent quality which is lacking

presently at artisans end .

3. More and more migrating families joining this trade from Bengal particularly

Kooch Bihar and other areas is increasing the pressure on the labor rates and

quality.

4. The other cities like Bareilly, Hyderabad etc where this art is practiced since

ages are also making a good presence in export market.


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3. THE ACTION PLAN FOR CLUSTER DEVELOPMENT

3.1 Main Problems and their Solutions in Cluster

S.No. Problems Suggested Solution

1. Lack of Marketing facilities Artisans should be provided marketing

linkages, both in the local and

International market.

2. Lack of Designs New market led designs, should be

provided and there is an ample need of

design development program.

3. There is no association/

federation of artisans and

artisans are unorganized

The association or group formation

should be there for this Cluster with the

help of government support can play a

vital role.

4. Lack of organizational behavior

among the Aari tari (zardozi)

workers

The HRD training can improve the

organizational behavior skills of the

members of the cluster.

5. There is no use of cost analysis

method and due to the absence

of cost analysis the artisans

don’t get adequate value of their

products

Micro enterprise management (MEMT)

training is must.

6. Lack of knowledge or export

and export market

Cluster development Agency can

disseminate the expected knowledge and

provide vital linkage for the export

market

7. Raw material is available in Standard quality and specification at


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Jaipur or Delhi. reasonable prices and at the door steps of

the artisans.

8. Lack of working capital Financial institutions, banks etc should

finance these artisans.

9. No Infrastructure CFC can provide the common

infrastructure support.

10. No franchise model A marketing society based franchise

base model for nation wide marketing

� The lack of communication among the artisans;

� The absence of an active association;

� Inadequate quality control capacity of the artisans

� Lack of design and marketing skills as the zardozi artisans had

grown accustomed to working as sub-contractors for exporters.

� Inadequate access to credit.

3.2 Suggestive Elements

The Aari Tari industry is a well-diversified industry, on the basis of geographical

location, method of production, working communities and also their access to the

market.

These groups can be differentiated on the basis of their individual characteristics,

priorities and requirements. The identified groups are

� Aari Tari artisans located at Ghat Gate & Ramganj Bazar

� Aari Tari artisans located at Brahmpuri to Ramgarh Mode and Bas Badan

pura.

� Artisans located in far flung slum colonies,

� Show room owners /Exporters located at Jaipur


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Initiating a program to bring them all under one umbrella may not be feasible at

present because of their different priorities. Initially small focus groups can be

identified with their common problems and requirements to solve their problems.

With the level of confidence building up among them, the different groups could

then be brought under a single umbrella.

� Recommendations:

(i) Assuming that there are good prospects, there is a need to set up a mission to

revive the old art and build up its market value and common brand image.

(ii) Making Aari Tari Zardozi as historic art and to make an application for getting

the trademark “Jaipur Zardozi” registered and the process patent for this art.

(iii) Develop a pool of shop owners, exporters and agents for colleting the work

in common platform and then distribute the work to the member artisans based on

the skills sets and scientific costing method.

(iv) Develop a documented process for this art for consistence in the quality and

then develop standard tool kits and frames which are ergonomically designed to

give optimum output.

(v) Set raw materials sourcing as a common practice so that the raw materials prices

are best bargained and the artisans can have credit cash flow type arrangement

linked to their payment from the clients .

(vi) Encourage the setting up of a marketing co-operatives in the form of NGOs -

comprising of some enlightened and dynamic artisans who are willing to co-


- 32 -

operate with each other. Entire aari tari members will be encourages to become

member of this cooperative which would help to achieve economies of scale in

terms of marketing and raw material sourcing.

(vii) Designs are the lifeline of this traditional industry. Compatible design inputs

are badly required by this industry. A design centre with professional designers and

CAD/CAM facility is also required.

(viii) Setting up of common facility centre ( CFC ) where from the raw material to

market and technological interventions s above will be provided .

3.3. Available Information Channel

The artisans will directly approached and encouraged to become members and this

cluster will be publicized mouth to mouth publicity and individual encouragement

and announcing this formation of cluster by local news papers, through electronic

media and support of the stake holders.

3.4. Proposed Action Plan

The main objective if this cluster is to convert the traditional work process into an

industry cluster so that the artisans get regular employment and fixed wages.

1. The action plan guide by various enterprise networks and service providers in

pushing the cluster towards a growth path with the adoption of modern

techniques and management practices and all the efforts in the cluster will be

made to have a market driven approach. The focus will be to have linkage for

the artisans so that they rise from job worker to owner of the process and

have a equally stake in the development of this art.


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2 The Cluster center(CFC) proposed as above will have all the information

about the international markets, linkages and information regarding the latest

in fashion trends in world will be compiled. Further through the usages of

modern technical; and management practices, thrust will be on the have

fasted changes in design, new material for use as silver and gold substitute so

as to equip the artisans to changing environments for the latest fashion trends

in the world.

3. COST ANALYSIS

There is lack of cost analysis system among the Aari tari workers. Due to the

absence of the cost analysis the artisans are not getting the real benefit of

their labor and they are just a labor. The real benefit goes to the middlemen or

the showroom owners themselves.

This work of Aari tari is prevalent from time immemorial and they have been

manufacturing zari zardozi sarees, salwar kameezes, kurtis, sherwanis,

accessories like purses, jutis , some jewelry items etc.

The cost of the product is generally decided on the basis of the raw material

used and added by the labor component. Normally the raw material part is

60-70% and the remaining is the labor incurred during the manufacturing of

the products. In this way the major part of the profit goes to the middlemen

and the showroom owners.

Due to the lack of knowledge and cost consciousness these artisans are

cheated or not getting the real benefit of their craftsmanship. In the proposed

CFC a work base cost analysis system will be provided to artisans so that

they understand the profit concept and don’t end up in loss while working on

the job based work.


- 34 -

We are sure that with this proposed strategy and efforts not only the skill

level of the artisans will improve but their managerial and entrepreneurial

capacity will also be increased.


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4. PROPOSED WORKING PLAN WITH FLOW CHART

4.1 Working Plan with Budget

The cluster center will be started in any on the artisan’s place where two rooms will

be taken from them in one room computer equipped with design software to have

more and more innovative designs for Aari Tari will be installed with color design

Plotter. The office will be connected with Internet.

Two Coordinators are proposed as the staff for this cluster, the role of one

coordinator will be to collect the information for development of new technique for

faster productions and the other coordinator will be working to develop

international marketing for them. Initiating the documentation of the process and

trademark and process patent registration.

The expert will also develop the franchise base model and will initiate giving

franchise in the name of Zardozi having ready-made garments and accessories.

Out side experts will be involved for training and disseminations of industry best

practices through regular programs and camps.


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Budget

S.No. Activities Amount

(Rs.)

A Fixed Expanses

a. Computer, design software & plotter printer 1,00,000.00

b. Office furniture, telephone and internet 15,000.00

c Development of Aari Tari ( Zardozi) International Portal 50,000.00

d Selection of cluster agents and motivational training programs

say selection of 300 artisans and making a group of 50 artisan

each and organizing awareness camps @Rs.5,000/- per camp

30,000.00

e 1. Skill development Technical Trainings two training

@Rs.10,000/- per program

2.Market and finance related basics training two training

@Rs.10,000/- per program

3. Training on communications and interaction with foreign

buyers two training @Rs.10,000/- per program

60,000.00

f Trade Mark registering and process patent application filing

For the Aari tari (Zardozi) Jaipur process ( basic

documentations to the filing and legal issues

50,000.00

g Development of ergonomically suitable Adda where four

artisans an work at a time on a long fabric and

standardization of tool kit for this art.

50,000.00

TOTAL 3,55,000.00

B Recurring Expanses (Annual)

a. Participation in 2 national exhibition @50,000per exhibition 1,00,000.00

b. � Two Coordinator @6000/- per month for one year 1,44,000.00

c. � Stationary &Documentation 20,000.00

d. � Travel & Communication Expenses 48,000.00

e. � Notional rent of CFC for three years @Rs.4,000/- per

month

48,000.00

TOTAL 3,60,000.00

GRAND TOTAL 7,15,000.00

Note: It is proposed to fund only one year recurring expanses other two years

recurring expenses will be earned by the CFC by using facility charges from the

artisans and making the CFC self reliant


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4.2 Flow Chart

Aari Tari cluster Jaipur (Three Months Plan of Action) for one year

Q=Three Months

S.No Activities

Q1 Q2 Q3 Q4

1 Selection of Cluster development agents

1.2 Formation of small groups

1.3 Awareness camps

Capacity building

2 Starting Cluster office

2.1 Preparing training calendar

2.2 Organizing trainings

3 Technological up gradation and

dissemination, Design and Product

Development

3.1 Trainings on new design and processing

3.2 Trainings on innovative practices

3.3 Development of ergonomically suitable

adda for comfortable working

3.4. Process Documentation for

standardization

4 Marketing Support

4.1 Initiating Trade mark Registration with

relevant agencies and Initiating process

patent registration

4.2 Exposure to major national and

international markets

4.3 Support participate in regular fairs

4.4 Linkages with financial institutions

4.5 Follow up and monitoring of groups


- 38 -

4.3 Expected out come � Enhanced managerial, technical, as well as entrepreneurial skills.

� Production of quality and diversified products.

� Application of advance technologies & methodologies.

� Rise in the number of new, independent and self-reliant entrepreneurs.

� Betterment in quality of life by raising their family income.

� Enable to catch up with the fast changing and demanding scenario.

Existing economy of scale

Income after the formation of Cluster

Implementing Agency:

Cluster development and CFC formation work will be carried out by Kamtech

Associates and in one year time the operations of the CFC will be made self

sustainable on the basis on usage charges. The management of CFC will be handed

over to their CIG society which at present does not exist and will be formed by the

implementing agency

Presently 25,000 Aari tari

artisan families Present Average monthly

income Rs. 2500-4000/-

At least 20,000

families will be

benefited

Average monthly income will get substantially

increased or it may get doubled even in the

range of Rs.4,000/- to Rs.7,000/-


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4.5 Executive Summary of Diagnostic Study

The Aari Tari is ancient and very unique art and It has origins from the Mughal Era.

This art can only survive on the artists capability and imaginary of work.

During the diagnostic study and collecting the fields surveys , It has been noticed

that this art has immense potential in terms of fashions post WTO . The artisans of

Jaipur who have mastered this art now increasingly use new design and plastic

threads besides its increasing adoptability on all types of fabric and for all usages

from accessories, to women apparels etc.

The artisans lack in marketing and new designs innovative practices as for them the

world market is distant dream and whatever the traders and middlemen demand

they only cater to them mostly on job work basis. Like Khadi has been given as

fashion fabric, zardozi work can also replicate as the fashion and design brands for

the world post WTO.


- 40 -

5. Photographs

Zardozi work on wedding suit (Lehnga, Choli & Duppata)

Displaying at Rana’s Showroom

Aari-tari work on Mojari( Jutiya)


- 41 -

Artisans: Safiya bano w/o mohamand sadiq & Isarat khan

Ari-tari work on Saree


Monthly income: 2500.00 to 2700.00

Artisans: Safiya bano & other artisans making design block

on saree


- 42 -

A zardozi purse

An exclusive zardozi kurti


- 43 -

Purses and Ornaments made by Aari tari


- 44 -

A sherwani with zardozi work


- 45 -


- 46 -

6. REFERENCES:

1. Personal surveys and information compilations.

2. Visiting Show room owners Like Rana sarees, in Johri Bazar and Bapu Bazar

area.

3. Internet Resources.


- 47 -

7. SURVEY FORM

District Industries Centre

Udhyog Bhawan, Jaipur

Cluster Diagnostic Study

Aari-Tari (Zardozi work)

Cluster Assessment at Jaipur City

Assessment form

General Information

Name of Artisans: Mr. /Mrs.……………………………………………………..

Present Address: Permanent Address:

………………………………… …………………………….

………………………………… …………………………….

………………………………… …………………………….

Phone No.: Mobile No.:

Place of Reference:

Total family members:

No. of family members involved in activity:

Community:

(a) Bengali (b) Muslim (c) Hindu (d) Others

Years of involvement in this Activity

Working Experience:

(a) Is it family business

(b) Started by Artisan’s Head (self)

Historical background, Aari-tari (Zarzodi work cluster):

Artisan view

Market view

Expert view


- 48 -

Product name & Description

S. No. Product Name Description Used in (Work)

Specialty:

Source of training (details):

(a) Are you trained

(b) Getting training from trainer

If you are trained, are you giving training to other Artisans? (Yes/ No)

Connectivity:

S. No. Transport

connectivity

Bus Stop

Railway

Market

Row Material Finished

Goods

Distance

Raw material used in Zardozi.

Types of Raw materials

S. No. Name Used as Source Source

Place

Costing

Source: Self/ Supplier/Agent/ Agency/ Contractor

Work Estimates

S. No. Stages Estimated Time Cost

Stages like: Design, media (base cloth), medium (gold/ silver/other)

Design Type

S. No. Design Name Design Cost Made by

Self Other


- 49 -

Machinery and tools used in Aari-tari (Zarzodi) Work

S. No. Machinery/ Tools Name Cost

Working Basis:

(a) Owned (b) Daily wages (c) On Contract

Finished goods market

Agent

Contractor

Company

Direct customer

Major Livelihood activity:

(a) Aari-tari (b) Other ……………….

Monthly income:

S. No. Aari-tari activity Monthly Work Monthly Income

Available infrastructure

Activity Stakeholders


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Artisans

Raw material suppliers

Domestic Buyer

Foreign Buyers

Buying Agents & Contractor

Exporters

Banking & Finance Institution like SIDBI, NABARD

Government Organization like DIC

Training Institution eg. RUDA

Problems:

Opportunity:

Engaged in agencies/NGOs:

Remarks:

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