COLLECTION NOTES

This collection’s overall aesthetic follows on from the pre-collection’s 90s alternative

rock themes, looking further at grunge heroines from this period such as Sonic Youth’s

Kim Gordon and D’arcy Wretzky, bassist from The Smashing Pumpkins. As with all of

Kirkwood’s work this collection focusses on creating engaging tensions; this season’s

90’s grunge references are mixed with touches of glam rock, very much like the aesthetic

of modern music icon Alison Mosshart from The Kills, celebrated for her hybrid style

of new grunge and unapologetic femininity.

D’arcy takes its moniker from the afore mentioned Smashing Pumpkins bassist. Here

we see fabrications such as crinkled, translucent organza and lace used on ankle boots,

giving the appearance of smoke enveloping the foot of the wearer. Softest nappa leather

in this group, used on ankle and over-the-knee boots creates sensuous folds over the

foot like liquid metal, giving a grunge like slouchy look. The opulent, bright gold

nappa colourway representing the bold, glam rock references used in this collection.

Kim Gordon lends both her name and sartorial aesthetic to an assemblage of stand-out

stilettos and boots. The Kim group uses grunge inspired deconstructed knit, with its

appeal very much around an idea of being undone and slightly unravelled, rather than

too perfect. Beauty in imperfection being the cornerstone of the feminist 90’s grunge

movement. Kirkwood renowned for his innovation, added a 3D hexagon Perspex heel

to a boot in this group with lazer etching inside it giving an appearance of sharp needles.

This is a technique first pioneered in the spring summer 2017 Phoenix collection.

The new Veronika group has an innovative 3D V shaped heel with a signature pearl

resting in it, visible from behind or underneath. Glossy, metallic shades of fuchsia and

gold contrasted with plain coloured uppers draw the eye back to the heel again.

Kim plexi ankle boot multicolour deconstructed knit / 90mmKim ankle boot black deconstructed knit / 90mm

Kim plexi ankle boot white deconstructed knit / 90mm

Courtney plexi mule scrunchie amber / 90mmCourtney plexi mule scrunchie orchid / 90mm

Courtney plexi mule black velvet / 90mmCourtney plexi sandal black velvet / 90mm

D’arcy plexi ankle boot grey silver liquid / 105mm

D’arcy high boot black organza / 105mm

D’arcy high boot black nappa / 85mm

D’arcy ankle boot black nappa / 105mmD’arcy ankle boot light gold metallic nappa / 105mm

D’arcy ankle boot platinum blue nappa / 105mmD’arcy ankle boot black smoke / 105mm

D’arcy medium boot black nappa / 85mmD’arcy medium boot light gold metallic nappa / 85mm

D’arcy medium boot platinum blue nappa / 85mm

Veronika mule black suede / 55mmVeronika mule blush nappa / 55mm

Veronika mule dark navy suede / 55mm

Veronika pump black suede / 55mmVeronika ankle boot black suede / 55mm

Polly mule black nappa / 55mmPolly sling back black suede / 55mm

Mira pearl mule leopard print pony / 105mm

Mira pearl low bootie black lace / 55mmMira pearl low bootie gunmetal star embroidery / 90mm

Mira pearl low bootie black quilted nappa / 55mmMira pearl low bootie black suede / 55mm

Mira pearl boot black suede / 90mm

Mira pearl boot black nappa / 90mm

Mira pearl ankle boot hematite suede / 55mm

Mira pearl mule white calf / 90mmMira pearl mule black calf / 90mm

Mira pearl mule bootie white calf / 55mmMira pearl mule bootie black calf / 55mm

Mira pearl pump black suede / 105mmMira pearl pump black suede / 55mm

Lola pearl sandal black quilted nappa / 90mm

Casati pearl combat boots grey silver metallic faux calf / 35mm

Casati pearl slipper white nappa / 18mmCasati pearl slipper black nappa / 18mm

Suzi combat boot grey bouclé / 35mm

Courtney mule black velvet / 18mmSuzi ballerina white nappa / 25mm

Beya loafer black quilted nappa / 18mmBeya loafer grey bouclé / 18mm

Beya loafer burgundy velvet / 18mm