clothing knowledge and economic improvement2016
TRANSCRIPT
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Clothing is important in
today's world!Personal Development, Economic Empowerment
and Creative Development incorporating elements of STEAM
Mary Ruppert-Stroescu, Ph.D.
Oklahoma State Clothing Specialist
Assistant ProfessorDesign, Housing, and
Merchandising
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Objectives• Historical to contemporary view of
textiles and apparel• Clothing is important: Top
misconceptions• Sewing as a gateway • Barriers• Takeaways• Resources
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History: Neolithic sewers
•Bronze age (c. 3150 BCE.)• Skirt
• corded fringe• Woven waistband
• Woven Top • sleeves,• pulled over the head
• Houppe Belt with fringe on one end and a metal disk on the other.
The first sewing needle! First needle with a hole, 22,000-1700 BC
Used long horse hair or reindeer tendons.
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History:Late 1700s – 1800s
• Power loom• First factory • Urban
development• Employment of
women outside of the home
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History: Mid-1800s• The invention of the sewing machine• 14 times faster than by hand
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History Late 1800s - Today• First Unions• Triangle Shirtwaist Fire• Textile factory fire, Pakistan• Textile Factory collapse,
Bangladesh
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Textile Innovation Changed the World
• Jacquard Loom • Basis for the
computer• Binary system
Jacuard CardComputer Card
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Key Facts: The U.S. Textile and Apparel
Industry • One of the largest manufacturing employers in the US.
• The third largest exporter of textile products in the world.
• Supports textile and apparel platform created by NAFTA/CAFTA/Andean free trade areas.
• Supplies +8,000 different textile products each year to the U.S. military.
• Invested + $15 billion in new plants and equipment , 2001 - 2009.
• Increased productivity by 45 percent over the last 10 years.
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Government & Textile Trade
• Executive Branch of the Government• Office of the United States Trade Representative
• Assistant to the USTR for Textiles• …will be responsible for supervising negotiations
affecting textile and apparel products, advising Ambassador Kirk on textile and apparel trade policy matters and working to expand the industry's access to foreign markets.
• The Committee for the Implementation of Textile Agreements (CITA)• Departments of Commerce, State, Labor, and Treasury and
the Office of the U.S. Trade Representative's Office
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Government & Textile Trade
• United States International Trade Association’s OFFICE OF TEXTILES AND APPAREL (OTEXA)• US IMPORTS IN 2011
• $92,727,734,058: Ninety-two billion • US EXPORTS IN 2011
• $19,719,001,369: Nineteen billion• Imports and Exports
• Quotas• Tariffs• Regulations
• Trade Agreements• Central America Free Trade Agreement (CAFTA)
• Trade Preference Programs
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Today’s world• People have SO MUCH information.
• Consumerism is pushing us • NEW is better• CHANGE is better
• Automation and free trade agreements have reduced the price of ready-to-wear clothing
• Inexpensive clothing is also cheaply made and wears out quickly.
• Textile waste is filling the landfills• 75% of textiles produced do not
biodegrade
• Creativity has been proven to be one of the drivers of economic development
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misconceptions about clothing1:
• Clothing is personal• You may think that what you wear is important to you and you
alone, but clothing is the strongest, most public communication tool we use every day.
• How we dress tells others what we think about ourselves, what we think about others, what we fill our time with, and often is the subtle element that can make or break an opportunity.
• Watkins (1995) defines clothing as a portable environment, one that “is carried everywhere with an individual, creating its own room within a room and its own climate within the larger climate of our surroundings” (p. 47).
• Clothing mediates relationships between the self and others (Keane, 2005).
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misconceptions about clothing2:
• If it’s cheap I should buy it Balance this statement with: you have to be rich
to buy cheap because inexpensive clothing is often prone to damage early in the wearing cycle. The fabric can get holes seams come undone the surface of the fabric often gets small balls
called pilling the color often fades quickly buy-back thrift stores do not generally pay much
for cheap clothing.
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misconceptions about clothing3:
• If it’s expensive, (and a name brand) I should save up and buy it• Paying more than is comfortable for your budget for
clothing or accessories should be done with extreme care. Check the quality VERY carefully. High price does not always mean high quality
• High prices CAN mean high quality, and carefully chosen, can result in a wise investment that endures over time.
• Be sure your purchase/investment is driven for the right reasons – don’t get caught in the brand image trap unless you are financially capable and fully aware of WHY you are attracted to the brand. • Status shopping is ok, as long as it’s mindful and purposeful.
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misconceptions about clothing4:
• If I wear it once, I must wash it Clothing worn in an indoor environment can often be
worn several times before laundering is required. Laundering puts strain on the garment and uses a lot of electricity and water. Wearing an undergarment such as a slip or a t-shirt
can protect a garment from body oils and perspiration. Create a space in your home where you can air out
clothes, especially those that do not touch your body directly.
Spot clean small soiling on the surface.
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misconceptions about clothing5:
• If it doesn’t fit I should throw it away Never throw away clothing! If a garment doesn’t
fit, run it through the wardrobe test Can you redesign it? Turn a skirt into a top, for example. Can you tailor it? Let out seams or add panels?
If it fails the wardrobe test Can you give it to a friend or family member? Take it to a buy-back thrift store such as Plato’s closet Give it to a thrift store (Goodwill, the Salvation Army, etc.) and
get a tax deduction form
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misconceptions about clothing6:
• Clothes must be new to be fashionable Aside from the fact that we see cycles in the fashion
system – who has not had a teenager buy clothes similar to what we wore as teenagers? Clothes can be updated with just a few adjustments and/or additions.
Consider changing buttons, length, width, or color to update.
Buying classics such as a black turtleneck, a white blouse, and a navy straight, knee-length skirt will also guarantee longevity.
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misconceptions about clothing7:
• Clothes must be new to be fashionable Aside from the fact that we see cycles in the fashion
system – who has not had a teenager buy clothes similar to what we wore as teenagers? Clothes can be updated with just a few adjustments and/or additions.
Consider changing buttons, length, width, or color to update.
Buying classics such as a black turtleneck, a white blouse, and a navy straight, knee-length skirt will also guarantee longevity.
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misconceptions about clothing8:
•More is better Most wardrobe authorities agree that the best
approach to dressing well economically is to establish a set of basic wardrobe pieces and some accent pieces.
Some people actually function with only 30 pieces in their closet and look diverse and great every day!
Besides, when we have so many clothes, we forget what we have and often times end up wearing the same pieces over and over. Think about it.
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misconceptions about clothing9:
•You need to be thin to look fashionable Fashion is about having a style that is aesthetically
pleasing and modern. Granted, it is often easier to combine an ensemble
without having to keep in mind all kinds of restrictions, like not emphasizing the waist, or covering the upper arm, but on the other hand we are so lucky that we can manipulate our clothing choices to make us look aesthetically pleasing and modern no matter what our body type, with some careful planning and wise shopping.
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misconceptions about clothing10:
• Just because people wear it, it’s ok.• Leggings are pants
Never wear leggings under a top that is shorter than mid-thigh, unless you are in a dance studio.
Leggings lack opacity and hug the skin so strongly that they look like a second skin. Show every imperfection Movement creates unpleasant image
Even if you don’t notice in the mirror when you get dressed, the person behind you on the stairs will have a different opinion.
Consider leggings to be in the same category as panty hose. Pajamas are ok to wear in public
Planning for our appearance in public is as important for ourselves as it is for ourselves. Despite their comfort, wearing pajamas in public can send the message that you don’t care about yourself. See point 10 below.
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Sewing as a gateway• Sewing is Empowering • Sewing Enables financial savings• Sewing Creates community• Sewing Skills for Youth Development
• Science• Technology• Engineering• Arts• Math
• Barriers
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Sewing will…• Empower
• Individual expression• Self confidence• Self-esteem
• Life skills• Patience• Focus • Process thinking• Compartmentalization • Self-efficacy • Self-reliance
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Sewing will…• Empower
• Save time• Family sharing
• Update those hand-me-downs• Building wardrobe wisely for
specific occasions• Flexibility to buy where you want/
can get the best deal. • Thrift stores• Online• Regular size if you are
• Small• Short• Off-standard sizing
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Sewing will…• Enable financial savings
• Repair instead of throw away• Simple
• Buttons, hems, seam tears, belt loops
• Fill in/hide holes• Replace a zipper
• Complex• Shorten jacket sleeve• Enlarge or reduce
waistband
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Sewing will…• Enable financial savings
• Redesign instead of reject• Stay fashionable, using that
knowledge and creativity• Skirt into a dress, wrap, etc.• Shorten sleeve, skirt• Jacket into a vest• Jean into skirt, jacket,
accessories • So many things…
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Sewing will…• Create community
• American Sewing Guild http://www.asg.org• “a national non-profit
organization dedicated to people who believe sewing is a rewarding and creative activity.”
• Join people across the lifespan• 4-H and OHCE
• American Association of Family and Consumer Sciences• http://www.aafcs.org/
Students/CareerFCS.asp
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Sewing will…• Develop our minds in important ways. • To sew you must know:
• Science• Technology• Engineering• Arts• Math
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Sewing will…• Develop our minds in important ways
• Science• Textile knowledge is based on scientific
exploration. Understanding polymer chains, crystalinity, and hydrogen bonds are only some of the examples.
• Chemical Structure• Yarn formation• Dye-ability and color retention• Abrasion resistance and durability• Moisture absorbency and comfort• Making textiles more sustainable
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Sewing will…• Develop our minds in important ways
• Technology• Technological innovation
• 3-D body scanning• 3-D printing• Sewing machines
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Sewing will…• Develop our minds in important ways
• Engineering • Engineering specific fabrics around the body • Creating a 2-d pattern to make a 3-D garment• Systems thinking
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Sewing will…• Develop our minds
in important ways • Arts
• Creative thinking • Aesthetic principles
• Elements and principles of design
• Sociology• Capturing the spirit of the
times• Psychology
• Developing personal expression
• Understanding how individual decisions impact others.
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Sewing will…• Develop our minds in important ways
• Mathematics• Algebra• Geometry• Measuring
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Barriers • Why learn to sew when
buying clothes is so cheap? • Compare sewing to
cooking. • Cooking at home vs. fast
food• The new paradigm sees
sewing differently.
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Takeaways• Textiles and clothing are essential to
economic, political, and human development• Rethink your conception of clothing• Sewing Skills are a gateway to
empowerment: economic and personal.• Economic Empowerment and personal financial
savings• Creates community• Develop our minds in important ways across the lifespan
• Personal Development• Creative Thinking • Problem Solving• STEAM: Science, Technology, Engineering, Arts, Math
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Resources• Watkins, S. M. (1995). Clothing: The portable environment
(2nd ed.). Ames, IA: Iowa State University Press.• Keane, W. (2005). The hazards of new clothes: what signs
make possible. The Art of Clothing: A Pacific Experience, 1-16.
• http://sweetpotatoesandsocialchange.com/4-reasons-basic-sewing-skills-are-important/
• http://www.soyoustudio.com/why-sewing/• http://www.sewcountrychick.com/why-should-you-learn-to-
sew/
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Clothing Matters!Spread the Word!
Mary [email protected]
http://fashionmatters2.blogspot.com Instagram/Twitter @mystyle4u@cwesst #cwesst• Center for wearable electronic
sensing systems#dhmokstate#clothingmatters#fashionmatters