climb itw matteo db
DESCRIPTION
Climb itw Matteo DB photo Pietro BTRANSCRIPT
W W W . C L I M B M A G A Z I N E . C O M
J U L Y 2 0 1 1W W W . C L I M B M A G A Z I N E . C O M
J U L Y 2 0 1 1
4 5
WHERE THE RIVER RUNS REDDavid Pickford hangs with rednecks in Kentucky
BACK TO THE FUTURE Paul Bennett goes back in climbing time to Buoux,
the world’s most influential limestone crag
THE VAN DIARIES Adrian Baxter recounts an epic nine month road trip
from Mexico City to Buenos Aires, taking in some of the best rock climbing areas in Latin America
INJURY AWARENESS FOR YOUNG CLIMBERS In a special edition of our Treatment Room series, sports
physiotherapist Nina Leonfellner explains the importance of correct training for climbers under 20
REGULARS
6 HOTLINES AdamOndraclimbsthe
hardestsportrouteintheworld-again!PlusamajornewtradmixedlinegoesupinItaly&SimonRichardsonreportsfromScotland
32 VERTICALDIARY SarahJaneDobnergets
UnderneaththeArches
34 DISSENTROUTE StephenWatt’sSecretDiaryofaGearFreak
36 THECLIMBINTERVIEW LuciaProsinotalkstoItaliantradmaestro
MatteoDellaBordellaaboutwhyhethinksBritishclimbersareamongthebestintheworld
40 GEAROFTHEYEAR Beginninganewfeatureselectingourfavourite
climbingproductsoftheyear,TomRichardsonlooksatgearforiceclimbing
50 MCCLURE:HOWFARCANWEGO? SteveMcCluretakesthelongviewofthelimitsofoursport
54 MOUNTAINWORLD LindsayGriffinreportsonthetantalisingRimoGroupintheEastern
Karakoram,sceneofsomeimpressiveascentsinthepastbutunvisitedbyclimbersforoveradecadenow
58 GEARINGUP:GIMME’SHELTER TomRichardsondivesintothewonderfulworldoftentsforclimbing
andmountaineering
66 THECLIMBREVIEW IanParnellreadsTheArtofIceClimbing,amajornewbook
byJeromeGrasBlancandHelenMortreadsDennisGray’slatestcollectionofclimbingpoetry,FromTheEdge
74 POSTCARDFROMTHEEDGE TheAmericanDreamasdescribedbyanOhiolicenseplate
COVER: Tim Emmett dancing on the shadowline as he begins the precarious crux sequence of Chouca (8a+) at sector Bout de Monde, Buoux, one of the most famous sport climbs on the planet. Turn to page 26 to find out more about the world’s most influential limestone cliff, and why you should go there the next time you visit the south of France. DAVID PICKFORD
CONTENTS: Matteo Della Bordella high on the famous ‘Enduro Corner’ pitch (5.12b) the 26th pitch of Freerider (5.13a, 850m) on Yosemite’s mighty Salathe Wall. Turn to page 36 to find out more about Matteo and his high regard for British climbing. PIETRO BAGNARA
LEAD FEATURE:
NORTHERN SOULMike Hutton climbs the hidden classics of Yorkshire gritstone, one of England’s finest cragging areas
FEATURES
12
26
42
52