climb itw matteo db

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WWW.CLIMBMAGAZINE.COM JULY 2011 WWW.CLIMBMAGAZINE.COM JULY 2011 4 5 WHERE THE RIVER RUNS RED David Pickford hangs with rednecks in Kentucky BACK TO THE FUTURE Paul Bennett goes back in climbing time to Buoux, the world’s most influential limestone crag THE VAN DIARIES Adrian Baxter recounts an epic nine month road trip from Mexico City to Buenos Aires, taking in some of the best rock climbing areas in Latin America INJURY AWARENESS FOR YOUNG CLIMBERS In a special edition of our Treatment Room series, sports physiotherapist Nina Leonfellner explains the importance of correct training for climbers under 20 REGULARS 6 HOT LINES Adam Ondra climbs the hardest sport route in the world - again! Plus a major new trad mixed line goes up in Italy & Simon Richardson reports from Scotland 32 VERTICAL DIARY Sarah Jane Dobner gets Underneath the Arches 34 DISSENT ROUTE Stephen Watt’s Secret Diary of a Gear Freak 36 THE CLIMB INTERVIEW Lucia Prosino talks to Italian trad maestro Matteo Della Bordella about why he thinks British climbers are among the best in the world 40 GEAR OF THE YEAR Beginning a new feature selecting our favourite climbing products of the year, Tom Richardson looks at gear for ice climbing 50 MCCLURE: HOW FAR CAN WE GO? Steve McClure takes the long view of the limits of our sport 54 MOUNTAIN WORLD Lindsay Griffin reports on the tantalising Rimo Group in the Eastern Karakoram, scene of some impressive ascents in the past but unvisited by climbers for over a decade now 58 GEARING UP: GIMME’ SHELTER Tom Richardson dives into the wonderful world of tents for climbing and mountaineering 66 THE CLIMB REVIEW Ian Parnell reads The Art of Ice Climbing, a major new book by Jerome Gras Blanc and Helen Mort reads Dennis Gray’s latest collection of climbing poetry, From The Edge 74 POSTCARD FROM THE EDGE The American Dream as described by an Ohio license plate COVER: Tim Emmett dancing on the shadowline as he begins the precarious crux sequence of Chouca (8a+) at sector Bout de Monde, Buoux, one of the most famous sport climbs on the planet. Turn to page 26 to find out more about the world’s most influential limestone cliff, and why you should go there the next time you visit the south of France. DAVID PICKFORD CONTENTS: Matteo Della Bordella high on the famous ‘Enduro Corner’ pitch (5.12b) the 26th pitch of Freerider (5.13a, 850m) on Yosemite’s mighty Salathe Wall. Turn to page 36 to find out more about Matteo and his high regard for British climbing. PIETRO BAGNARA LEAD FEATURE: NORTHERN SOUL Mike Hutton climbs the hidden classics of Yorkshire gritstone, one of England’s finest cragging areas FEATURES 12 26 42 52

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Page 1: Climb Itw Matteo DB

W W W . C L I M B M A G A Z I N E . C O M

J U L Y 2 0 1 1W W W . C L I M B M A G A Z I N E . C O M

J U L Y 2 0 1 1

4 5

WHERE THE RIVER RUNS REDDavid Pickford hangs with rednecks in Kentucky

BACK TO THE FUTURE Paul Bennett goes back in climbing time to Buoux,

the world’s most influential limestone crag

THE VAN DIARIES Adrian Baxter recounts an epic nine month road trip

from Mexico City to Buenos Aires, taking in some of the best rock climbing areas in Latin America

INJURY AWARENESS FOR YOUNG CLIMBERS In a special edition of our Treatment Room series, sports

physiotherapist Nina Leonfellner explains the importance of correct training for climbers under 20

REGULARS

6 HOTLINES AdamOndraclimbsthe

hardestsportrouteintheworld-again!PlusamajornewtradmixedlinegoesupinItaly&SimonRichardsonreportsfromScotland

32 VERTICALDIARY SarahJaneDobnergets

UnderneaththeArches

34 DISSENTROUTE StephenWatt’sSecretDiaryofaGearFreak

36 THECLIMBINTERVIEW LuciaProsinotalkstoItaliantradmaestro

MatteoDellaBordellaaboutwhyhethinksBritishclimbersareamongthebestintheworld

40 GEAROFTHEYEAR Beginninganewfeatureselectingourfavourite

climbingproductsoftheyear,TomRichardsonlooksatgearforiceclimbing

50 MCCLURE:HOWFARCANWEGO? SteveMcCluretakesthelongviewofthelimitsofoursport

54 MOUNTAINWORLD LindsayGriffinreportsonthetantalisingRimoGroupintheEastern

Karakoram,sceneofsomeimpressiveascentsinthepastbutunvisitedbyclimbersforoveradecadenow

58 GEARINGUP:GIMME’SHELTER TomRichardsondivesintothewonderfulworldoftentsforclimbing

andmountaineering

66 THECLIMBREVIEW IanParnellreadsTheArtofIceClimbing,amajornewbook

byJeromeGrasBlancandHelenMortreadsDennisGray’slatestcollectionofclimbingpoetry,FromTheEdge

74 POSTCARDFROMTHEEDGE TheAmericanDreamasdescribedbyanOhiolicenseplate

COVER: Tim Emmett dancing on the shadowline as he begins the precarious crux sequence of Chouca (8a+) at sector Bout de Monde, Buoux, one of the most famous sport climbs on the planet. Turn to page 26 to find out more about the world’s most influential limestone cliff, and why you should go there the next time you visit the south of France. DAVID PICKFORD

CONTENTS: Matteo Della Bordella high on the famous ‘Enduro Corner’ pitch (5.12b) the 26th pitch of Freerider (5.13a, 850m) on Yosemite’s mighty Salathe Wall. Turn to page 36 to find out more about Matteo and his high regard for British climbing. PIETRO BAGNARA

LEAD FEATURE:

NORTHERN SOULMike Hutton climbs the hidden classics of Yorkshire gritstone, one of England’s finest cragging areas

FEATURES

12

26

42

52