city with a past – an account of the built heritage of bhopal _ architexturez south asia

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3/21/2015 City with a past an account of the built heritag e of Bhopal | Architexturez South Asia

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C i t y w i t h a p a s t a n a c c o u n t o f t h e b u i l t h e r i t a g e

o f B h o p a l

Dass, Meera . " C i t y w i t h a p a s t a n a c c o u n t o f t h e b u i l t h e r i t a g e o f B h o p a l . " I n B h o p a l 2 0 1 1 : L a n d s c a p e s o f

M e m o r y , e d i t e d b y A m r i t h a B a l l a l a n d J a n a f G e i j e r s t a m , 8 0 - 8 4 . N e w D e l h i , I n d i a : S p a c e M a t t e r s w i t h

N o r w e g i a n U n i v e r s i t y o f S c i e n c e a n d T e c h n o l o g y ( N T N U ) , 2 0 1 1 .

Today, when the gas leak of 1984 marks any association with Bhopal, it becomes important to trace

the citys rich past to get a true sense of the loss that Bhopal suffered due to the tragedy. Besides the

terrible human cost of the tragedy, the event also marked a profound deviation from the sustainable

urban practices that are intrinsic to the citys history and built legacy. In that sense, Bhopal also lost

its cultural identity. There are many lessons to be drawn from the sustainable building practices

that have marked the relationship between the city and its various kingdoms. It is this continuity of

pioneering engineering and sensitive use of the natural resources that needs to mark our present

association with Bhopal, as well as inform the planning of its future growth.

B H O P A L C I T Y O F L A K E S

Sprawled across the Vindhya and Singarcholi mountains is the beautiful city of lakes Bhopal.

Spanning 20-25 km across, Bhopal is a well planned, fast developing city. Wide roads, lush

greenery, luxuriant urban spaces and modern buildings in a continuous, undulating terrain make

up its beautiful cityscape. Adding romance to this environment are the lakes of Bhopal. The largest

and the oldest of these lakes, supplies the city with water the Upper lake, commonly known as

Bara Talab (Hindi for Big Lake), constitutes the thousand year old heritage of the city. Holding

this lake is the equally ancient dam King Bhojas Dam, a reminder that Bhopals origins lay in a

far-sighted environmental management that has stood the test of time. In the heart of the city

today, lie many such silent documents of the history of Bhopal many of them in a ruined,

unattended and uncared-for state.

T R A C I N G B H O P A L S H I S T O R Y

Prehistoric man wandered the slope of Dharampuri and Lalghati abutting the Bara Talab. Cave

paintings and rock shelters in these areas attest to the presence of human habitation here.

However, not much else is known about the city of Bhopal before 1000 CE.

During King Bhojas time (1010-1053 CE), Bhopal was probably an important guardian city to the

water body Bara Talab. The fortified grid iron city of Bhojapala was located towards the east of the

lake. About 35 km. towards south-east of Bhojapala was its sister city called Bhojpur. This city in

King Bhojas kingdom, perhaps its capital, was a bustling centre of trade and commerce. Bhojpur
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other in an ordered manner. People spread out on to these pattias in the evening and these

become centres of daily social intercourse and gossip. Another meeting point for the residents of

Bhopal was the akhara. An Indian version of the gymnasium, the akharas had mud pits and other

facilities for physical training and fitness.

A major extension to Bhopal became imminent when Pul Pukhta was constructed in 1794 CE. Pul

Pukhta was a stone masonry dam 275m. long and 21m. wide. Spanning the Ban Ganga and the

Patra valleys, it collected water in the form of a small lake one-tenth the size of Bara Talab, and was

named Chhota Talab (Hindi for small lake).

No major construction took place due to repeated attacks on the city till about 1819 CE when an

alliance with the British East India Company finally materialized. This treaty with the British

safeguarded the city against invasions. Consequently, economic prosperity returned. The

administrative nucleus of the city till this time had been the Fatehgarh citadel.

The Jami Mosque was erected during 1833-56 CE during Qudsia Begums reign, with its golden

minarets visible from all points of the city. The large plateau north of the Gohar Mahal became

prominent with the construction of the Moti Mahal. Built by Sikandar Jehan Begum in 1847 CE,

this palace became the administrative cum residential nucleus.

The building of this complex was the beginning of the creation of an new urban centre. The

individual buildings were a part of the overall image, the assertion of a statement displaying power

and authority. Although the Khirniwala Maidan complex was constructed over a period of fifty

years, a sense of oneness was achieved by controlling elements such as parapet design, uniform

building height, the level of the plinth etc. Some of these bear an obvious French influence. In 1848

an English engineer, David Cook was commissioned by Sikandar Jehan Begum to develop the lake

fronts and plan the waterworks system.

The baoli (Hindi for step well) at Bara Bagh is a beautiful example of stepwell architecture.

Constructed in red sandstone, the baoli has a two storied space above the water level. The steps

leading into the water are flanked with stone carved walls and the columned chambers above the

water level are aesthetically pleasing. Jehagirabad also has the remains of an aqua-duct which can

be seen on the southeast bank of Chhota Talab. Water was pulled up to a height of about 15m. by

chawars into the water channels on top of a gradually sloping arched wall. Chawars were leather

bags used to lift water from wells with the help of animal power such as bull power. This water

travelled a distance of 1.75 km. and flowed into a pond. This pond serviced Noor Bagh and also met

the water needs of the Afghan troops quartered in the area.

The ambitious development of Shahjehanabad was started under Shahjehan Begum in 1870.

Shahjehanabad was a suburb towards the north of Bhopal. It was complete with bazaars (Hindi for

markets), galla mandies (Hindi for grain markets), store houses, serais, residential quarters and


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institutions. An Id-gah (Hindi for mosque) was located at the highest point in the landscape and

Shahjehanabad was enveloped by a city wall. Three terraced lakes were created in this area with

water from one cascading into the next. These formed the central area of Shahjehanabad. The

palaces and residences of the elite were located along these lakes; the uppermost of these lakes or

talabs being the Motia Talab spread across a 230 m. x 230 m. area; Noormahal Talab as the

intermediate level lake spread in a 175m. x 230m. area; and the lowest was the Munshi Hussaini

Talab with 115 m. x 230 m. spread. The three lakes were dependent on the surface run-off water

from the seasonal rains. To maintain the balance and the level of water in these lakes, an additional

reservoir was constructed to the north of Shahjehanabad. An elaborate system of brick-lined

vaulted drains exited to collect water and bring it to the lake. These channels passed through

important buildings before delivering water to the Talab. The channels were transformed into

splashing fountains, gurgling cascades, and silent chadars (sheets of water) or passed through

beautifully carved stone streams. Rose water or kewda was added to this water to cool and freshen

the air.

The Noor Mahal and the Taj Mahal were the royal residences and were connected by a rail line.

One can see a curious mix of Islamic and Hindu architectural elements in the Taj Mahal. There are

cusped arches, massive gateways, screen windows at upper levels, extensive mouldings, decorative

plasterwork and squat domes with jharokahs. (Hindi for a type of overhanging enclosed balcony).

The detailing in the inner courtyard facades seems to have a colonial influence. Towards the north-

west of Taj-ul-Masajid, across the Motia Talab, was the Benazir Palace, constructed in 1875, where

the Bhopal2011 workshop took place. It is an H shaped building with enclosed terraced gardens

and gurgling fountains. A series of steps and plinths descended to the talab in the manner of a ghat.

Benazir palace was meant to be the summer palace of the Nawab. Built with steel columns and

carved louvered wooden partitions, it has extensive carvings on the walls of its hammam. The

palace is an excellent example of passive thermal control. The Benazir Palace was also used to

accommodate state dignitaries. Lord and Lady Minto stayed here during their visit to Bhopal in

1909. The gateway to the Benazir Palace was added at a later period. This is the most ornamental

and ceremonial gate of old Bhopal. It has multi-foliated arched openings with staircases in farcorners leading to chhatris (Hindi for domed kiosks). The openings have canopies with pitched

eaves.

The Colonial architecture, after 1901 CE, which until then had merely influenced vernacular

architecture, became more dominant. Additions to the public buildings in this period included the

Revenue Courts, the Court of Justice, Minto Hall, Civil Club, Hamidia Kutubh Khana (Library),

Imperial Bank and the Edward Museum. Along with these, a number of residential bungalows were

built on picturesque locations. The buildings of this period are mostly European in character with

high ceilings and raised plinths. They were devoid of decorative elements and, hence, gave little

scope to local craftsmen to exercise the skills and knowledge that had been passed down to them.


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This distancing of built heritage from environment and culture has grown over the years and has

manifested in an inappropriate choice of techniques, materials, styles and resources. In the course

of development, we have been indiscriminately destroying our heritage. It is imperative that we

preserve all that is of value from our past and also create, with vision and sensitivity, a future

heritage for Bhopal.

C O N C L U S I O N

The architecture and urban design employed through the ages in Bhopal, shows deep respect for

nature and sustainable planning practices. From ancient tribal kingdoms to Hindu kings to Muslim

dynasties, the city has been witness to changing times, destruction and resurgence, all of which

have left their imprint behind in the form of built heritage. The gas leak today seems to eclipse all

else that Bhopal stands for. Understanding and awareness of the tragedy needs to be spread such

that it is integrated into the citys heritage rather than be seen as an isolated, overpowering

narrative. Most of the citys built heritage, including that related to the disaster, is in dire need of

attention and repair. The people need to be made aware of the historic legacy of the city in order to

embrace and learn from Bhopals past failures as well as its achievements, and for their sense of

pride in their city to be restored.

Bhopal 2011: Landscapes of Memory

I n t r o d u c t i o n t o B h o p a l 2 0 1 1 : L a n d s c a p e s o f M e m o r y

B h o p a l 2 0 1 1 - C o n t e x t , C o n c e p t , P r o c e s s

C h a r m i n a r P r o m e n a d e s e s s e n c e a n d r e a l i t y o f h e r i t a g e m a n a g e m e n t i n I n d i a

C i t y w i t h a p a s t a n a c c o u n t o f t h e b u i l t h e r i t a g e o f B h o p a l

B h o p a l G a s T r a g e d y M e m o r i a l

R a i s i n g q u e s t i o n s e x c e r p t s f r o m p a n e l d i s c u s s i o n s a n d d e b a t e s f r o m B h o p a l 2 0 1 1

B h o p a l 2 0 1 1 W o r k s h o p R e i n v e n t i n g H e r i t a g e C o n s e r v a t i o n a s a C o l l e c t i v e E n d e a v o r
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B h o p a l 2 0 1 1 : L a n d s c a p e s o f M e m o r y

A n a r c h i t e c t u r e h i s t o r i a n a n d c o n s e r v a t i o n a r c h i t e c t , M e e r a D a s s h a s a l s o b e e n t h e C o n v e n o r , I N T A C H

( I n d i a n N a t i o n a l T r u s t f o r A r t a n d C u l t u r a l H e r i t a g e ) o f t h e B h o p a l R e g i o n a l C h a p t e r . H a v i n g c l o s e l y

w o r k e d w i t h t h e h e r i t a g e o f B h o p a l a n d i t s c o n s e r v a t i o n , i n t h i s p a p e r M e e r a t a l k s a b o u t t h e r i c h h i s t o r y

a n d a r c h i t e c t u r e o f t h e c i t y . A t a t i m e w h e n t h e g a s l e a k h a s b e c o m e t h e s i n g l e m o s t d e f i n i n g f a c t o r o f t h e

c i t y s i m a g e , t h e p a p e r d r a w s o u r a t t e n t i o n t o t h e r i c h h i s t o r i c u r b a n f a b r i c o f B h o p a l , e s p e c i a l l y t o t h e

l e g a c y o f e n v i r o n m e n t a l s u s t a i n a b i l i t y t h r o u g h g r o u n d b r e a k i n g u r b a n d e s i g n a n d w a t e r m a n a g e m e n t

s y s t e m s t h a t h a v e e v o l v e d i n t h e c i t y t h r o u g h t h e c e n t u r i e s . M e e r a D a s s w a s a j u r y a t t h e B h o p a l 2 0 1 1

w o r k s h o p a n d a p a n e l i s t a t t h e s y m p o s i u m .

Related Content

Documents Posts

0 1 . " I n t r o d u c t i o n t o B h o p a l 2

0 1 1 : L a n d s c a p e s o f M e m o r y . " I n B h o p a l 2

0 1 1 : L a n d s c a p e s o f M e m o r y , e d i t e d

b y A m r i t h a B a l l a l a n d J a n a f G e i j e r s t a m , X I I - X V I . N e w D e l h i , I n d i a : S p a c e M a t t e r s w i t h

N o r w e g i a n U n i v e r s i t y o f S c i e n c e a n d T e c h n o l o g y ( N T N U ) , 2 0 1 1 .

0 2 . Burgess, James , Charles Shepherd, a n d Samuel Bourne . " U d a y p u r , t h e W a t e r - P a l a c e - P h o t o g r a p h

X V I I . " I n P h o t o g r a p h s o f A r c h i t e c t u r e a n d S c e n e r y i n G u j a r a t a n d R a j p u t a n a . C a l c u t t a , B o m b a y a n d

S i m l a : B o u r n e & S h e p h e r d , 1 8 7 4 .

0 3 . B h o p a l 2

0 1 1 : L a n d s c a p e s o f M e m o r y , E d i t e d b y A m r i t h a B a l l a l a n d J a n a f G e i j e r s t a m . N e w D e l h i ,

I n d i a : S p a c e M a t t e r s w i t h N o r w e g i a n U n i v e r s i t y o f S c i e n c e a n d T e c h n o l o g y ( N T N U ) , 2 0 1 1 .

0 4 . " B h o p a l 2

0 1 1-

C o n t e x t ,

C o n c e p t ,

P r o c e s s . " I n B h o p a l 2

0 1 1 : L a n d s c a p e s o f M e m o r y , e d i t e d b y A m r i t h a

B a l l a l a n d J a n a f G e i j e r s t a m , 4 - 1 3 . N e w D e l h i , I n d i a : S p a c e M a t t e r s w i t h N o r w e g i a n U n i v e r s i t y o f

S c i e n c e a n d T e c h n o l o g y ( N T N U ) , 2 0 1 1 .

05 .

Shah, Jagan. " B h o p a l

20 1 1 W o r k s h o p

R e i n v e n t i n g H e r i t a g e C o n s e r v a t i o n a s a C o l l e c t i v e E n d e a v o r . "

I n

B h o p a l 2

0 1 1 : L a n d s c a p e s o f M e m o r y , e d i t e d b y A m r i t h a B a l l a l a n d J a n a f G e i j e r s t a m , 2 2 2 - 2 2 4 . N e w

D e l h i , I n d i a : S p a c e M a t t e r s w i t h N o r w e g i a n U n i v e r s i t y o f S c i e n c e a n d T e c h n o l o g y ( N T N U ) ,

2 01 1 .

0 6 . Burgess, James , Charles Shepherd, a n d Samuel Bourne . " M a r b l e G h a t a t R a j n a g a r - P h o t o g r a p h

X I I I . " I n P h o t o g r a p h s o f A r c h i t e c t u r e a n d S c e n e r y i n G u j a r a t a n d R a j p u t a n a . C a l c u t t a , B o m b a y a n d

S i m l a : B o u r n e & S h e p h e r d , 1 8 7 4 .

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B h o p a l 2 0 1 1 - L a n d s c a p e s o f M e m o r y S p a c e M a t t e r s , N T N U , U n i v e r s i t y o f G o t h e n b u r g a n d m A A N P a p e r b a c k

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