““Testing Relevance Testing Relevance in in

Fabric Quality Fabric Quality Appraisal Appraisal

(Chemical)”(Chemical)”By

P. N. JaragP. N. JaragQuality Assurance OfficerQuality Assurance Officer

Textiles Committee, Mumbai Textiles Committee, Mumbai

Identification of Fibres and Percentage

Composition

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Principles of Principles of Color Fastness Color Fastness

Testing Testing

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Color Fastness of TextileColor Fastness of TextileMeans Tendency of fabric to hold colorTo determine the resistance of dyed /printed textiles to various agencies to which textile may be exposed during manufacturing and subsequent use. Assessment of quality of color Exporter’s requirement

General PrinciplesGeneral PrinciplesSpecimen of textile to be tested is subjected to action of agencyAssessment of change in color of specimen Staining of adjacent fabricAdjacent fabric should be scoured, mercerized and bleached(std.IS3425/1986)Rating is given on basis of gray scale

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Different Fastness TestsDifferent Fastness Tests

Fastness to washing Fastness to perspiration Fastness to lightFastness to rubbing Fastness to hot pressingFastness to dry-cleaning /organic solventFastness to bleachingFastness to water / sea water

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Wash FastnessWash Fastness

M/C: Launder-o-meter or wash wheelSample size- 10cmx4cmTest specimen is sandwiched between the two adjacent fabric pieces i.e.undyed cutting of the same material (in case of blend piece should be of predominant material)and another piece should be as specified in the standardIf multi-fabric is used then only one adjacent fabric is usedAdjacent fabric should be free from optical brightening agent & finishesSeverity of test increase as the test no increases.

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Standard Adjacent FabricStandard Adjacent Fabric

SpecimenSpecimen First piece Second pieceFirst piece Second pieceCotton Cotton WoolWool Wool CottonLinen Linen Cotton/viscose

Viscose Viscose WoolAcetate Acetate ViscosePolyamide Polyamide Wool/viscosePolyester Polyester Wool/cottonAcrylic Acrylic Wool/cotton

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Fastness to WashingFastness to Washing

Test method

Soap(gpl)

Soda ash

(gpl)

Temp(oC)

Time(min.)

MLR No of steel balls

Test Intensity

IS:687:79

5 _ 40 30 1:50 _ Very Mild

IS:3361:79

5 _ 50 45 1:50 _ Mild

IS:764:79

5 2 60 30 1:50 _ Moderate

IS:765:79

5 2 95 30 1:50 10 Strong

IS:3417:79

5 2 95 4-hrs 1:50 10 Very Strong

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Grade with SignificanceGrade with Significance

Fastness gradeFastness grade Interpretation Interpretation 5 Excellent4 Very good3 Good2 Moderate1 Poor

Assessment of wash fastnessAssessment of wash fastnessTreated sample is dried below 600C after opening the stitchesChange in color (contrast) is assessed with help of gray scale(IS768:1982)Staining of adjacent fabric(contrast) is assessed with help of gray scale (IS769:1982)Reporting is done as per change in color and staining to both adjacent fabricsThe assessment should be done by at least three observer and overall average rating should be reported. Te

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Fastness to Perspiration Fastness to Perspiration (test method:IS971:1983)test method:IS971:1983)

Significance:Significance: As the cloth come in contact with human perspiration so fastness to perspiration is important to all shirting and suiting Sample preparation is same as washing fastness.Human perspiration may be acidic or alkaline in nature depending on metabolism

Perspiration RecipePerspiration Recipe

Liquor composition (gpl) Alkaline Acidic L-histidine monohydrochloride monohydrate

0.5 0.5

NaCl 5.0 5.0Na2HPO4.12H2O 5.0 ---

NaH2PO4.2H2O --- 2.2

pH(adjusted by NaOH/CH3COOH) 8.0 5.5

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Fastness to Sea water Fastness to Sea water (test method:IS690:1988)test method:IS690:1988)

Purpose: Those cloth which comes in contact with sea waterSample preparation is same as washing fastness.Solution of 30 gpl of NaCl is used to replicate the conditionsM:L ratio of 1:50 is maintained and the sample is kept in this solution for 30 min. with stirring after every 5 min.Sample is then removedKept in between the plates for 4 hours with a load of 5 kg

Fastness to Water Fastness to Water (test method:IS767:1983)test method:IS767:1983)Purpose: • Sample preparation is same as washing fastness.• Water of grade 3 is taken for the purpose• M:L ratio of 1:50 is maintained and the sample is kept in water for

30 min. with stirring after every 5 min.• Sample is then removed• Kept in between the plates for 4 hours with a load of 5 kg Te

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Fastness to BleachingFastness to Bleaching (test method:IS762:1988, NaOCl & 763:1988 for Htest method:IS762:1988, NaOCl & 763:1988 for H22OO22))

Sample preparation is same as washing fastness.For NaOCl bleaching, sample is kept in 2 gpl active content solution with pH of 11 + 0.2 for 1 hr. in darkM:L ratio of 1:50 is maintainedSample is the removed, washed and assessed for change in colorFor H2O2 bleach, 5gpl sol., 5 gpl Na. Silicate, Mg. Chloride is used

Fastness to Organic solvent / Dry cleaningFastness to Organic solvent / Dry cleaning (test method:IS688:1983 & 4802:1988 resp.) method:IS688:1983 & 4802:1988 resp.)

As those cloth which are either delicate or requires special washing Sample is prepared and put in cotton bag with twill construction and 12 metal washers taken and the bag stitched.Organic solvent or perchloroethylene M:L ratio of 1:40 is maintained and the sample is kept in this solution for 30 min. with stirring after every 2 min.Sample is the removed and dried below 80° CSample is then assessed for change in shade Te

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Fastness to Light IS:2454:1985Fastness to Light IS:2454:1985

It is resistance of dyed/printed material toward the day light.As the day light changes from time to time and altitude to altitude & the exposure to day light will take a lot of time and reproducibility is not there.so artificial light source are used XENON arc or CARBON arc lamp is usedSpecimen size is 1cmx4.5cm (mounted on card board)8-Blue Woolen standards are provided by SDC they are also exposed to light along with samples(686:1985)

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Fastness to Rubbing Fastness to Rubbing

It is resistance of dyed/printed material for rubbing.Surface dye of the specimen is removed due to this test.The specimen is subjected to dry and wet rubbing for the staining on undyed cloth both in warp and weft direction.Standard test method is IS766:1988

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ProcedureProcedureM/C : Crock meterPressure : 900gm(9N)No of strokes : 10Strokes length : 10cmSample in warp : 2(wet&dry)Sample in weft : 2(wet&dry)

Assessment of Rubbing FastnessAssessment of Rubbing Fastness

• Two samples both in warp and weft direction each , one is dry rubbing other is wet rubbing.

• Staining of white sample is reported on the basis of gray scale• It is critical for azoic color and printed(khadi printing) material• It is important to check rubbing fastness to all printed material.

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Fastness to Hot Pressing Fastness to Hot Pressing (Test method IS:689:1988)(Test method IS:689:1988)

• Sample dimension same as wash fastness• Three specimen are taken for each sample; one each for dry,

damp and wet & pressure of 30 gm.cm2

• Hot pressing temperatures are 110, 150 & 200 °C• Staining of white sample is reported on the basis of gray scale• Change in color of specimen; immediately and after 4 hours is

assessed

Flammability of Textiles Flammability of Textiles

Class of Flammability Interpretation

1 Textiles having no usual burning characteristic, Normal flammability

2 Intermediate flammability3 Rapid or intense burning

Vertical Flammability Tester test method (IS:11871)Vertical Flammability Tester test method (IS:11871)To be tested in warp direction11 cm x 31 cm strip is takenDry and again bring the moisture content to 65%Impinge the sample with flame for 3 sec.Accepted if the char length of five specimens does not exceed 7” and no specimen should burn fully

Inclined (45° Flammability Test Method) Inclined (45° Flammability Test Method) test method (IS:11871)test method (IS:11871)

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Dimensional Stability Dimensional Stability of of

FabricFabric

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Dimensional StabilityDimensional StabilityMeasure of the extent to which the fabric keeps / maintain its original dimensions subsequent to its manufacture.Types of Dimensional Changes generally recognized are:

Relaxation shrinkageProgressive shrinkageThermal shrinkageGrowth

Factors Affecting Dimensional StabilityFactors Affecting Dimensional StabilityWeaveType of fibre Type of finish Tension during weavingType of test method adopted Te

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Dimensional Change of Fabric on SoakingDimensional Change of Fabric on Soaking

60 cm x 60 cm specimenCondition the specimen for 24 to 48 hoursMark the specimen (50 cm) in conditioned stateSample kept in tray containing water at 25 to 35°C for 2 hrs.Remove excess water by using towel in flat condition Dry the sample in flat condition at room temperatureCondition the sample and then measure the dimensionsCalculate the change in dimension in percentage

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Dimensional Change by AATCC - 135 MethodDimensional Change by AATCC - 135 Method

Simulates home laundering and drying conditionsAutomatic washing machineAutomatic tumble dryerAATCC reference detergentMarking done with the template (min. of 25 cm.)Detergent and sample loaded in to the machine and washDry the sample as per the test required by the customerRepeat the selected washing and drying cyclesCondition the samples Measure the dimensions and calculate the dimensional stability Te

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AATCC standardized Washing TemperaturesAATCC standardized Washing TemperaturesDescription Wash Temp Rinse Temp. Very cold 16 + 3°C < 18°C

Cold 27 + 3°C < 29°C Warm 41 + 3°C < 29°C Hot 49 + 3°C < 29°C

Very Hot 60 + 3°C < 29°C

AATCC Washer and Dryer ConditionAATCC Washer and Dryer Condition

Setting WasherSetting Washer NormalNormal DelicateDelicate Permanent Press Permanent PressAgitator (spm) 179 + 2 119 + 2 119 + 2Wash Time (Min) 12 08 10Spin Speed (rpm) 645 + 15 645 + 15 430 + 15Final Spin time (min.) 6 6 4

DryersDryersExhaust Temp.(°C) 67 + 6 < 62 67 + 6 Cool Down Time (min.) 10 10 10 Te

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Thank You

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