chemical softeners

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    Chemical Softeners

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    Chemical Softeners

    Chemical softeners have gained great importance infinishing; almost no piece of textile leaves theproduction facilities without being treated with a

    softener. Softening treatment is to give the textiles the

    desired handle, make further processing easier andimprove the handling properties.

    A nice, soft handle is often the decisive criterionfor buying a textile and is therefore of most vitalimportance for marketing many textiles product.

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    Objectives of chemical softening

    A Softener's main purpose is to improve the aestheticproperties of textiles

    It gives the fabric the desired handle; usually withimaginative descriptions such as soft, full, super soft,

    smooth, elastic, firm, dry, sludgy etc. It positively influences the technological properties

    such as antistatic, hydrophilic properties, elasticity,sewability, abrasion resistance etc.

    It gives synthetic fibres a certain degree of naturalfeeling and improve the handling properties throughsecondary effects (antistatic, smoothness, moistureregulation etc.).

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    Desirable properties of textile Softeners

    Easy handling (liquid, pump able, stable dilution)

    Good compatibility to chemicals, easy to combine

    Stable to high temperatures, not volatile by Water Vapour

    No yellowing

    No effect on fastnesses No colour shade changes

    Leaves no deposits on rollers

    Regular and complete bath exhaust

    Spray able Not toxic, not caustic, not corrosive

    Easily biodegradable

    Dermatologically harmless

    No restriction for transport and storing (flash point)

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    Classification of textile softeners

    according to their Ionogenity

    Ionic Activity Electric Charge

    Nonionic No charge

    Ionic Negative Charge

    Cationic Positive Charge

    Pseudo Cationic At acid pH slightly cationic

    Quaternary Cationic (no matter of pH)

    Amphoteric Depending on the pH

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    Mechanisms of the softening effect

    Softeners provide their main effects on thesurface of the fibres. Small softener molecules,in addition, penetrate the fibre and provide an

    internal plasticisation of the fibre formingpolymer by reducing of the glass transitiontemperature Tg.

    The physical arrangement of the usual softenermolecules on the fibre surface is important . Itdepends on the ionic nature of the softenermolecule and the relative hydrophobicity of the

    fibre surface.

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    Cationic Softener

    Cationic softeners have the best softness and are reasonablydurable to laundering. They can be applied by exhaustion toall fibres from a high liquor to goods ratio bath and theyprovide a hydrophobic surface and poor rewettingproperties.

    They are usually not compatible with anionic products(precipitation of insoluble adducts).

    Cationic softeners attract soil, may cause yellowing uponexposure to high temperatures and may adversely affect thelight fastness of direct and reactive dyes.

    Inherent ecological disadvantages of many conventional(unmodified) quaternary ammonium compounds(quaternaries) are fish toxicity and poor biodegradability. Butthey are easily removed from waste water by adsorption andby precipitation with anionic compounds.

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    Mechanism of the softening effect of

    Cationic softeners

    Cationic softeners orient

    themselves with their positively

    charged ends toward the partially

    negatively charged fibre (zeta

    potential), creating a new surface

    of hydrophobic carbon chains that

    provide the characteristic excellentsoftening and lubricity seen with

    cationic softeners.

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    Anionic Softeners

    Anionic softeners are heat stable at normal textile

    processing temperatures and compatible with other

    components of dye and bleach baths.

    They can easily be washed off and provide strong

    antistatic effects and good rewetting properties

    because their anionic groups are oriented outward

    and are surrounded by a thick hydration layer. They are often used for special applications, such as

    medical textiles, or in combination with anionic

    fluorescent brightening agents.

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    Mechanism of the softening effect of

    Anionic Softeners

    Anionic softeners, orient

    themselves with their

    negatively charged ends

    repelled away from the

    negatively charged fibre

    surface. This leads to higher

    hydrophilicity, but lesssoftening than with cationic

    softeners.

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    Amphoteric Softeners

    They have good softening effects, low

    permanence to washing and high antistatic

    effects (because of their strong ionic

    character).

    They have fewer ecological problems thansimilar cationic products.

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    Nonionic softeners

    Nonionic softeners do not carry any electricalcharge and therefore do not possess anydistinctive substantivity. Such products are

    applied by means of forced application i.e.usually in padding mangle procedures.

    Non-ionic softeners can be combineduniversally, are stable to temperature and donot yellow. This is the reason why this productclass is perfect for finishing optically brightenedhigh-white articles.

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    The orientation of non-ionic softeners dependson the nature of the

    fibre surface, with thehydrophilic portion ofthe softener beingattracted to hydrophilic

    surfaces and thehydrophobic portionbeing attracted tohydrophobic surfaces.

    Mechanism of the softening effect of

    Nonionic Softeners

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    Non-ionic softeners based on polyethylene

    Polyethylene can be modified by air oxidation in the melt at high pressure

    to add hydrophilic character (mainly carboxylic acid groups).

    Emulsification in the presence of alkali will provide higher quality, more

    stable products.

    They show high lubricity (reduced surface friction) that is not durable todry cleaning, they are stable to extreme pH conditions and heat at normal

    textile processing conditions, and are reasonably priced and compatible

    with most textile chemicals.

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    Ethoxylated non-ionic softeners

    Polyglycol ethers are synthesized by the addition of ethylene oxide tofatty alcohols, carboxylic acids, esters, amides or amines .

    They are surfactants and often used as antistatic agents and ascomponents of fiber spin finishes.

    Their main characteristics are relatively high substantivity and

    hydrophilicity, non yellowing and sometimes a low softening effect andlubricity, and a potential for foaming during processing.

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    Silicone softeners Amino functional silicones have a big importance to textile

    softening companies. Their surface smoothening and softening

    properties are above all other product groups.

    Micro and semi-micro emulsions can be made with specially

    selected emulsifying recipes using amino-functional silicones.

    They offer a number of advantages which ,are totally in keeping for

    modern textile finishing. The low particle size (micro emulsions

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    They show good temperature stability and durability,with a high degree of permanence for those productsthat form cross linked films and a range of propertiesfrom hydrophobic to hydrophilic.

    Depending on their method of synthesis, siliconesofteners can contain variable amounts of volatilesiloxane oligomers. Together with volatile emulsifiersthese oligomers can cause pollution problems in thewaste air from tenter frames.

    In textile finishing, silicones are also used as waterrepellents, elastomeric finishes, coatings and asdefoamers.

    Silicone softeners

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    Compatibility and combinability

    Softener finishes are often combined with easy careand antistatic treatments. As a rule of thumb,hydrophobic softeners cause an extra soft handwhere as hydrophilic softeners bring about some

    fullness. In combination with fluorocarbons, most softeners

    reduce oil repellency.

    Some ionic, surface active and silicone free softeners

    are not compatible with water repellents. Since softeners are usually also excellent fiber

    lubricants, softening finishes often give poor anti-pilling and slippage properties.

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    Properties of emulsions and micro

    emulsions

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    Particulars of and troubleshooting for

    softening finishes

    Emulsion stability: When the stability of a normal (notmicro-) emulsion is very high in an exhaust treatment,then the softening effect decreases. An emulsion ofmoderate stability gives the best results, probably

    because small drops of the emulsified softener canexhaust to the fiber surface. Poor emulsion stabilitycauses stains.

    Reactive softeners: Some softeners have functionalgroups that can react with the corresponding groups of

    some fibres, The result is a very durable finish, combinedwith the typical advantages and disadvantages of thiscrosslinking chemistry.

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    Particulars of and troubleshooting for

    softening finishes

    Softeners and thermo-migration of dyes: Many

    hydrophobic softeners are solvents for disperse dyes.

    Therefore they increase thermo-migration of the dyes and

    the staining of adjacent yarns (bleeding). The crockfastness and wash fastness of the fabric decrease as the

    dyes migrate to the fiber surface.

    Volatility: Some softeners are volatile or contain volatile

    components. During drying, heat setting or curing thesevolatile components can condense on cooler areas of the

    ovens and then drop back onto the fabric, causing spots.

    Heating the top of the ovens can help prevent this

    problem.

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    Particulars of and troubleshooting for

    softening finishes

    Yellowing: This problem arises especially with undyed

    fabrics. It can be caused by the oxidation of cationic

    softeners or amino-modified silicones or by the ionogen

    attraction of cationic softeners and anionic fluorescent

    brighteners (extinguishing the fluorescence by salt

    formation). Dispersing agents and product selection are

    helpful to reduce this effect.

    Mechanical softening: Softening effects can be gained onsome fabrics without chemicals, only by mechanical

    treatment, for example washing or in a tumbler or with

    high pressure water jets.

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    Correlation between molecule structure and

    application technical properties

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    The Kawabata Evaluation System (KES

    The Kawabata Evaluation System (KES) is used to make objective

    measurements of hand properties. The KES instruments measure

    mechanical properties that correspond to the fundamental

    deformation of fabrics in hand manipulation.

    The Kawabata system of instruments, featured in the fabric hand

    laboratory, measures properties of textile fabrics and predicts theaesthetic qualities perceived by human touch.

    The Kawabata Evaluation System (KES) includes five highly sensitive

    instruments that measure fabric bending, shearing, tensile and

    compressive stiffness, as well as the smoothness and frictionalproperties of a fabric surface.

    This evaluation can include measurement of the transient heat

    transfer properties associated with the sensation of coolness

    generated when fabrics contact the skin during wear.

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    The Kawabata Evaluation System (KES)

    KES provides a unique capability, not only to predict human

    response, but also to provide an understanding of how the

    variables of fiber, yarn, fabric construction and finish

    contribute to the perception of softness.

    A standard specimen size of 20 x 20 cm is used in three

    replications. All measurements are directional, except for

    compression, and are made in both the lengthwise direction,

    and in the crosswise direction of the sample. Appropriate

    instrument settings are used for the material being tested

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    Handle-O-Meter

    The Handle-O-Meter is another method in whichdifferent kinds of deformation have a simultaneous

    effect on the sample, resulting in a total value for the

    hand.

    A rectangular sample of maximum 20 cm or 8 inches

    width is pushed by a blade into a variable slit.

    Maximum resistance force on the blade is registered,

    giving a value that depends on the flex rigidity of thesample and the frictional resistance on the corner of

    the slit.

    Both the surface smoothness and the compressibility

    are included in the measurement.

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    Handle-O-Meter

    The mean values of both sides of the fabric in

    lengthwise and crosswise directions are

    determined and recorded. In other relatively

    simple methods the resistance is measured,when a textile sample is drawn through a ring

    aperture or a nozzle.

    The measured resistance force consists ofcomponents of the flexural rigidity, the surface

    friction, the shear rigidity and the compressibility.