checking out your new home · 2018. 10. 30. · 2 checking out your new home table of contents...

CHECKING OUT YOUR NEW HOMEINFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE GUIDE

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You are now the proud owner of a new home!

Your new home represents a major financial investment as well as the culmination of some very complex legal and technical undertakings.

This guide was designed primarily as a reference document that will help you prolong the lifespan of your new home.

From a legal point of view, the two most important documents are:

• The sales contract (agreement of sale), because it is concrete evidence of the legal relationship between you and the contractor (builder). The sales contract is a notarized document that normally reiterates the terms of the preliminary contract, which specifies exactly what the contractor has committed to delivering;

• The guarantee contract, which establishes the rights and obligations of both parties under the terms of the Regulation respecting the guarantee plan for new residential buildings.

CONGRATULATIONS !

This guide is published by the Association des professionnels

de la construction et de l’habitation du Québec (APCHQ).

Photo credit – cover page: Construction Voyer

No part of this document may be reproduced in any form or by any means, electrical or mechanical, without express written permission from the APCHQ.

Copyright©2015 APCHQ. All rights reserved.

2 CHECKING OUT YOUR NEW HOME

TABLE OF CONTENTS

GUARANTEE PLANSince January 1st, 2015, the guarantee plan for new residential buildings is administered by the Garantie de construction résidentielle (GCR), an independent, non-profit organization.

The mission of the GCR is to safeguard the interest of new home and condominium buyers, reduce the number of claims by focusing on building quality improvement and ensure sound management of risks associated with the coverages.

For information regarding the GCR, call 514 657-2333 or 1 855 657-2333, or visit garantiegcr.com.

3 Certificate of Location

5 Grading the Lot

9 Landscaping

11 Sidewalks and Driveways

13 Roofing

16 Eaves Troughs

18 Foundation Walls

20 Exterior Siding

23 Decks, Porches and Balconies

25 Exterior Doors

27 Electricity

29 Plumbing and Bathroom

32 Drains

35 Water Heater

37 Heating

40 Energy Sources

43 Condensation

49 Walls and Floors

52 Interior Doors and Woodwork

54 Smoke Alarms

56 Fireplaces and Chimneys

58 Maintenance Schedule

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CERTIFICATE OF LOCATION

When your house was first built, your contractor hired a professional surveyor to identify the exact position of your house on the lot so that its location would comply with municipal by-laws regulating front, back and lateral set-backs of the zoning grid.


CERTIFICATE OF LOCATION

LOT LINE

SURVEY MONUMENT

After construction of the house, the surveyor issues an official legal document called the certificate of location. The certificate of location includes: 1) a report describing the lot and its orientation; 2) a plan showing the location of your house on the lot.

If you wish to install a pool, a garden shed or a fence, or build an extension to the house or balcony, the municipality will require a copy of your certificate of location to issue a permit. It is very important that you keep it in a safe place.

SURVEY MONUMENTSThe measurements noted on your certificate of location are the official ones, but they alone do not suffice to establish the boundaries of your property. The position of the survey monuments indicates the precise location of the limits of your lot. Survey monuments are rather small metal stakes with orange plastic heads that are driven into the ground at the limits of your property. The name of the surveyor or the company responsible for installing them is written on the head of the stake.

When the lot is graded or when the municipality works on its infrastructures (street lamps, sidewalks, curbs), these survey monuments may be accidentally displaced or covered up. If this is the case and if you wish to install new structures on your property (e.g. swimming pool, garden shed), it is better not to take any chances and ask a professional surveyor for advice. You could save yourself a lot of trouble!

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GRADING THE LOT

When you accepted your new home, your contractor performed an initial grading of the lot so that surface water runoff would be directed away from the foundations and towards the street, a ditch or a storm drain.

CHECKING OUT YOUR NEW HOME


GRADING THE LOT

Obviously, it is always possible to regrade your lot, but you should never undertake a project of this type without carefully considering eventual drainage problems that may affect your own lot, your neighbour’s lot and any adjacent public properties. Otherwise, you could be held liable for any damage caused by your work.

Before undertaking any grading work on your property, you would be well advised to consult an expert and your municipality’s permitting officer.

You’ve always dreamed about having a lot with maple trees and a flower garden along the side, with maybe a spa at the back? But, to make your dream a reality, you have to change the slope of your lot. This, as you will see, is a job for an expert, not an amateur.


GRADING THE LOT

If you modify the grading of your lot, the very first thing you must do is to prepare a plan and check it out with an expert. Remember:

1- The water that falls onto your lot must not run off onto your neighbours’ lots. It must be directed towards the street, the ditches or the storm drains.

2- The lot must slope away (downwards) from the foundation, not towards it.

3- Flower beds must not block normal water runoff.

4- It is important to keep heavy equipment (backhoe, bulldozer) from running too close to the house to avoid cracking the foundation.

5- Rainwater pipes must direct water away from the foundations. It must not be connected to French drains.

6- Beware: if your driveway is much higher than the side or rear of your lot, it can prevent adequate drainage.

7- It is important to keep a gap between the ground level (grass) and the building external siding. The size of this gap varies with the type of siding used.

8- The same principle can be applied to the basement windows. If it is impossible to maintain an adequate gap, then window wells must be installed.

ACCUMULATION OF WATERWithout proper surface drainage, water can accumulate in the ground and freezing conditions around the foundations can cause cracks and water infiltration. Water infiltration can also be a problem at the foundation footing joint

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GRADING THE LOT

CLEANOUTSDepending on the type of soil (fine particles) or municipal by-laws, your contractor may have chosen to install cleanouts for the French drain at the foot of the foundations.

If this is the case, these must be used annually to clean out the French drain. The cleaning frequency requirements vary according to the type of soil.

6” ( 150 mm )

If window wells are installed, the crushed rock fill must be kept clean at all times (free of leaves and grass) so that adequate drainage will be maintained.


LANDSCAPING

For years you have been dreaming about lands caping your property, and now your dream is about to come true. No matter how carefully you have planned this operation, certain limitations must be taken into consideration (such as municipal by-laws).


LANDSCAPING

If you are planning to plant a hedge using shrubs or very young trees, be sure to leave enough space for them to grow without interfering with other plants or your house.

Some municipalities regulate plantings of trees and hedges, especially trees such as poplar, willow and silver maple whose root development may cause significant damage to your foundations, drainage system, lawns and driveway.

HELPFUL HINTTall broadleaf trees planted on the east and south-west sides of the house will help keep it cool in summer. In winter, leafless trees will let the sun and warmth into your home.

Be aware that if you have a tree whose branches overhang the neighbouring property, this may cause problems. Use foresight.

11CHECKING OUT YOUR NEW HOMECHECKING OUT YOUR NEW HOME 11

We recommend that you wait at least one year before paving your driveway or installing pavers.

SIDEWALKSAND DRIVEWAYS


SIDEWALKS AND DRIVEWAYS

The earth that has been moved by excavation work around the building will normally tend to settle along the foundations during that first year. Some subsidence of the earth is normal along the foundation.

Water accumulating along the foundations can cause cracks in the foundations and overload the French drain. This problem is easily solved by adding earth to create a positive slope for water runoff.

CONCRETE SIDEWALKSWhile it is curing, concrete tends to shrink. This normal shrinking process inevitably causes microcracks to appear in the surface. These are not a sign that the concrete has been damaged in any way. If larger cracks appear, they should be sealed.

DE-ICING SALTIn winter, the use of de-icing salt or other snow melting agents can cause major damage to concrete surfaces, particularly in the five years immediately following construction.

You should use sand or fine gravel.

Tools with cutting edges such as axes or ice choppers should never be used to de-ice balconies or sidewalks.

To keep your driveway in good condition, take care to prevent damage that could be caused by bike stands or by petroleum products leaking out of vehicles. Whenever possible, do not let heavy vehicles or machinery run over your driveway.


ROOFING

The roof of your house should protect you for many years before you need to think about replacing it.

However, even if your contractor took every possible precaution during construction of the roof, the extreme climatic conditions that can occasionally occur in Québec can still cause problems. What does that mean for your asphalt shingle roof ?


ROOFING

STRONG WINDSStrong winds can sometimes lift asphalt shingles and even rip them off the roof. Should this occur, the shingles must be replaced in order to prevent any water infiltration through the roof that could cause major damage to other components of the building. This minor repair work must not be neglected.

Therefore, after a wind storm, always inspect the roofing to make sure there are no missing, displaced or damaged shingles. When you inspect the roof, you may notice that there are grains of asphalt in the eaves troughs. This is normal. When asphalt shingles are manufactured, a surplus of these grains is always added. These may end up in the eaves troughs after a few rainfalls. This does not indicate a problem with the shingles. All you need to do is clean out the eaves troughs.

VARIATIONS IN COLOURTowards evening, you may notice some colour variations on different slopes of your roof. This is caused by a number of factors, among them: all the grains are not exactly the same colour and there are more grains on some shingles than on others. These minor variations will become less evident with time, and in no way affect the performance of your roof.

BUILD-UP OF ICE AND SNOWOver the last few years, we have experienced some fairly significant weather variations. We have had very snowy as well as very wet winters. It is possible that snow may build up in excessive amounts on certain parts of your roof. Even if your roof structure was designed to support a considerable load, major accumulations of snow need to be dealt with.

Do not take any chances! Clear your roof or have it cleared to be sure it will not suffer any damage.

When there is more than 70 cm of snow on the roof, you must take immediate action. During a thaw, this snow can be turned into ice and prevent normal water run-off. This can result in water infiltrations and major damage.

ALGAE DEVELOPMENTBlack traces can appear on certain parts of the roof, mainly on the north and west-facing sections which are less exposed to the sun. This phenomenon is the result of algae growth. Such traces can be cleaned using TSP cleaner, or can be prevented by installing a zinc or copper stripe at the roof peak to create – when exposed to rain – oxidation, a natural enemy of algae.


ROOFING

HELPFUL HINTSEvery spring and every fall, carry out a thorough inspection of your roof. This will save you trouble in the long run, and will also give you a chance to clean out the eaves troughs, repair any damaged seals and repair or replace any damaged shingles.

Stay safe when working on the roof: • Keep your ladder well away from any power lines • Never lean your ladder on the eaves troughs • Always use appropriate safety gear

Remember that installing equipment such as antennas or dome skylights can damage the roofing and cause water infiltration. The guarantee provided by your contractor can be reduced, possibly even invalidated if such damage is caused by material installed by a third party.


EAVES TROUGHS

Eaves troughs and downspouts are essential in directing rainwater away from the foundations of your home.


EAVES TROUGHS

Downspouts should never be connected to the French drain around the foundation. Leaves and grains of asphalt would collect in the drain and prevent it from functioning properly. For the same reason, a pool drain should never be connected to the French drain.

Eaves troughs and downspouts should direct water away from the foundations of your home, as shown in the sketch below.

HELPFUL HINTSWhen installing eaves troughs, always remember to leave a gap between downspouts and the ground. Frost heave can raise the ground level enough to damage the downspout.

We recommend that eaves troughs be cleaned every autumn, after the leaves have fallen.

If possible, do not set up your eaves troughs so that water from one section of the roof runs down over another section. This procedure will increase colour changes in the shingles and may decrease the life span of your roof.


FOUNDATION WALLS

The foundation walls of your house were designed and built to support the loads they carry.


FOUNDATION WALLS

Concrete, by its very nature, tends to shrink as it dries. Hairline cracks will naturally appear in the foundations over the course of the first year after construction of yournew home.

These cracks appear mainly below basement windows, in places where there are offsets or drilled holes, but they have no effect on the strength and integrity of the concrete.

HELPFUL HINTS If you notice any water seeping through cracks in the foundation, get in touch with your contractor.

The foundation walls have been waterproofed up to grade. If you decide to raise the ground level above the waterproofed portion of the foundation or if you do any landscaping that raises the ground level, then you must waterproof the section of the foundation that is now below grade to prevent water infiltration.


EXTERIOR SIDING

Exterior siding includes bricks and stones, stucco as well as clapboards (aluminum, vinyl, wood and wood fibre).


EXTERIOR SIDING

BRICK AND STONE SIDING Brick and stone siding are porous and can absorb considerable quantities of rainwater, especially when strong winds drive rain against the house. When the siding is saturated, excess water runs down behind it through the wall cavity or “air gap”, and exits through weepholes at the bottom of the wall. Never plug up these holes, and never insert tools into them, as this may pierce the flashing, which directs water towards weepholes.

HELPFUL HINT Make sure there is sufficient clearance between the final grade line and any brick, stone or stucco siding.

WEEPHOLE

FLASHING

6” minimum


STUCCO SIDINGAcrylic stucco siding is generally applied over rigid insulation panels. Make sure to leave adequate clearance between grade level and the bottom of the siding.

It is very important that the perimeter of all openings and penetrations (ventilation grilles, dryer vents, range hood vents, etc.) be carefully sealed. This type of cladding requires more frequent maintenance than any other type of siding. It should be inspected at least twice a year, and any cracks or defective seals should be immediately repaired.

CLAPBOARD No matter what type of clapboard siding you use – vinyl, wood or wood fibre – there must be sufficient clearance between the bottom of the siding and the grade level. All joints must be carefully sealed.

AluminumAluminum clapboard is relatively fragile. Never lean bicycles, rakes, shovels, etc. on it.

VinylVinyl siding is less rigid and less likely to be damaged when struck. However, expansion during the summer may cause visible buckling when the wall is viewed from certain angles. This in no way affects the performance of the siding. During the winter, nothing should be leaned against the siding as it tends to weaken due to the cold.

Wood and Wood FibreHorizontal wood or wood fibre siding requires some special maintenance procedures, particularly in the case of wood fibre clapboard with vertical joints. This type of siding expands and contracts with varying humidity levels in the air. This movement can affect seals in the joints, and they must be maintained regularly. Please see the manufacturer’s recommendations for maintenance.

EXTERIOR SIDING


DECKS,PORCHESAND BALCONIES

Decks, porches and balconies don’t have it easy. Like all the other exterior parts of your home, they are exposed to the weather, and they are also high traffic zones. Adequate maintenance prevents premature deterioration of their surfaces.

24 CHECKING OUT YOUR NEW HOMECHECKING OUT YOUR NEW HOME24

DECKS, PORCHES AND BALCONIES

On concrete porches and balconies, you must never use de-icing salt or any other similar product, as these substances can damage the surface of the concrete. Surface cracks let water into the concrete and subsequent freeze-thaw cycles will shatter it.

We therefore strongly recommend that you use fine gravel or sand.

If hairline cracks appear on the surface, an appropriate sealant should be applied to prevent water from seeping into the concrete.

Wood balconies and decks also have a hard life. They should be protected with regularly-applied coats of paint or stain.

THE SPACE UNDER YOUR PORCH/DECK/BALCONY (WOOD OR CONCRETE)Freezing may cause certain types of soil to swell. This has the potential to cause major damage to your porch, deck or balcony.

Never fill the empty space under precast concrete porches and/or under the bottom step of a concrete porch. There should be a gap of at least 3 inches (75 mm).

HELPFUL HINTDuring landscaping, pavement installation must be carefully supervised to make sure that nothing runs underneath the balcony or the bottom riser.


EXTERIOR DOORS

Exterior doors are usually steel with insulated cores, prepainted or painted in the desired colours.


EXTERIOR DOORS

When you are ready to repaint steel doors, never apply paint to the magnetic weatherstripping: it will be damaged. If your door is in full sun and you want to paint it, start early in the morning or in the evening or wait for a sunless day.

Some doors may operate smoothly in summer but tend to stick in the winter. Even though these doors are constructed with steel panels, they still expand and contract like other materials. It is better for the door to be a bit tight in winter than too loose in summer.

Because they are subjected to constant use and seasonal weather changes, exterior doors should be inspected regularly and adjusted as needed so that they operate smoothly. Weatherstripping should also be inspected to be sure it is in good condition.

HELPFUL HINTSome doors are equipped with double weatherstripping. These can occasionally be a little more difficult to open. Silicone spray usually offers a quick solution to this problem.


ELECTRICITY

The electrical system in your home was installed by a certified master electrician.


ELECTRICITY

If an electrical appliance or an electrical outlet is not working, the first thing to do is check the breaker in the distribution panel. Most of the time, all you will have to do is reset the breaker. If the breaker trips a second time, speak to your contractor.

If there is a power outage, the first thing to do is evaluate its extent. If it is a general blackout, the whole neighbourhood will be affected. Contact your power company, tell them what you know about the outage (power pole down, broken power lines, fallen tree on power line, etc.) and how extensive it is. The more details you can provide, the more rapidly the company will be able to remedy the problem.

If your exterior electrical outlet is not working, try pushing the reset button and check the breaker that controls the outside outlets.

HELPFUL HINTIf you decide to finish the basement, remember that regulations require a minimum clearance of one metre in front of the electrical distribution panel.


PLUMBING AND BATHROOM

Like the electricity, the plumbing in your house was installed by a certified professional contractor in compliance with existing plumbing code standards.

HOT COLD


PLUMBING

If you take a look at your plumbing installations, you will see that the pipes and fixtures in your home were designed to last for a long time. You must, however, use them under reasonable conditions.

You must never dispose of grease, oil and similar products in the sink. Never empty petroleum products into your drains. All these products tend to stick to the inside surface of the pipes, significantly reducing their drainage capacity.

SAFETY HINTImportant: Make sure everyone in your family knows the location of the main water shut-off valve, in case of a burst pipe.

If you have a finished basement with a raised floor, make sure that the floor has access panels so that floor drains and check valves can be easily reached. Drains and check valves should be inspected annually.

HELPFUL HINTSNever empty acid or corrosive products into the floor drains, as they can damage the check valves.

If you are planning to stay away for an extended period, be sure to turn off the main shut-off valve. This will prevent any possibility of water damage. Also, to prevent damage to the water heater, it should be turned off at the breaker.

Do not store materials, products or boxes near the toilet shut-off valve or under counters. You could accidentally break or damage the pipe and cause a leak.

In winter, unhook the garden hose from the exterior tap, and make sure to drain it well to prevent frost damage.


BATHROOM

CERAMIC TILEThe floors and walls in most bathrooms are finished with ceramic tile.

Ceramic tile is waterproof, but unfortunately, the grouting used between the tiles is not. You must therefore be very careful not to let water stand on the floors.

Water infiltration in a ceramic floor is a gradual process that may go unnoticed, but it can cause considerable damage over time.

The same problem can occur with water infiltration behind the ceramic tiles in the bath or shower surround. With time, water will cause damage to the drywall and floor panels.

To prevent water infiltration and serious damage to support structures, all cracks in corner joints must be repaired immediately with caulking compound.

If this regular maintenance is neglected, the result will be the slow, inevitable deterioration of the appearance of your bathroom. Having it completely redone is a major expense, much greater than the time and cost related to small maintenance tasks.

HELPFUL HINTSEvery six months, apply silicone sealer (for bathrooms) over all corner joints where grouting has been used.

Modern bathtubs and showers are often made of acrylics and fibreglass: abrasive products should never be used to clean them, as they will leave indelible marks on the surface.


As any other part of the building, the drainage system requires maintenance. Special attention should be given to floor drains, roof drains and cleanouts to ensure they are kept in their optimal working condition, as well as to extend their life span.

DRAINS


DRAINS

FLOOR DRAINSNormally located near the water heater, the floor drain allows water to escape in case of a leak. It is equipped with a p-trap that holds water and prevents noxious odours from the sewage system from entering the house. Over time, the water in this trap can evaporate and let unpleasant odours in.

Water should be added to this drain two or three times a year to keep the p-trap functioning properly.

It is very important to make sure you still have access to this drain if you plan to install a raised floor or any kind of new flooring.

ROOF DRAINSIf your home has a roof deck, a roof drain should have been installed. This drain must be carefully maintained. The building must be equipped with an access hatch that allows you to reach the drain to clean out any leaves or other debris that may have accumulated in it. If this drain is not properly cleaned, it could freeze during the winter. If this happens, water accumulating on the roof deck could seep into your home.

CHECK VALVESIf you have or plan to have any plumbing in the basement, the plumber installed a check valve to prevent any backup from the municipal sewage system.

This valve is located under the basement concrete slab and can be accessed through a cleanout.

This valve has to be cleaned at least twice a year to ensure that it continues to function properly. If you finish the basement and put in a raised floor, you must also put in access panels that allow you to reach the floor drain and check valve.

Any hatches installed for cleanout must also remain accessible.


DRAINS

SUMP PUMPSIn some municipalities, the configuration of the municipal storm sewer system makes it impossible for gravity to drain the French drains. In this case, a pump is installed in a drainage basin so that excess water can be mechanically drained off when the preset level has been reached.

The starting mechanism on the pump must be cleaned at regular intervals to avoid potential problems. The sump must also be cleaned regularly to prevent sand from accumulating in the bottom of the pan.

In sectors where there is no storm drainage system, it is a good idea to install a battery-operated pump as a backup to prevent flooding during periods of electrical outage.

In addition, if the discharge is connected to a pipe that leads to a ditch, it is important to make sure the outlet on this pipe remains clear of debris and long grass so that water can run out freely and prevent the formation of an ice plug.

SAFETY HINTAvoid storing materials, products or boxes on the sump cover. You must be able to reach the pump easily in case of damage.


WATER HEATER

All hot water tanks, whether they run on gas, oil or electricity, are equipped with a temperature control mechanism.


WATER HEATER

Beneath the side panels, you have access to the hot water temperature control, which must be maintained at 140ºF (60ºC) in order to prevent the development of legionella bacteria in hot water.

All hot water tanks are equipped with a safety valve located on top of the tank. If the thermostat is not functioning properly and the pressure inside the tank gets too high, this safety device will bleed off the excess pressure. This device should never be used in any other way.

If you notice any water under the water heater, turn off the water intake, turn off the breaker for the water heater and call a plumber.

SAFETY TIPNever store objects too close to a gas or oil water heater, as this may prevent adequate air circulation and increase the risk of fire.

HELPFUL HINTNowadays, we do not have to empty the water heater once a year the way our parents and grand-parents did. Modern municipal water systems provide a much better quality of water, so the clean-out operation is no longer necessary. On the other hand, if your home water supply comes from a well, and if the water is very hard in your area, you may still need to flush the water heater once a year.


HEATING

When the heating system for your home was chosen, a specialized contractor evaluated the heating needs for your residence and made sure that the system had sufficient capacity to keep the house at a comfortable temperature, with due consideration for the weather conditions in your area and the volume of air to be heated.


HEATING

Now it is your turn – you must learn about your heating system and work out the best way to set it. The minimum recommended temperature inside a home is is 22°C on the ground floor, on the upper floor and in the basement (18°C for an unfinished basement). For heated crawl spaces, a temperature of 15°C is recommended.

If your home includes rooms that are located over a garage, in order to keep the inhabitants of these rooms comfortable, the garage must be heated to between 15 and 18°C.

ELECTRIC HEAT (BASEBOARDS)This system requires little or no maintenance, except cleaning dust off the heating elements once a year at the beginning of the heating season. Otherwise, when the elements first begin to heat in the autumn, they will give off a “burnt” odour.

Minor ticking sounds may be heard when the baseboard begins to heat: this is caused by expansion of the metal, and it is a perfectly normal phenomenon. You may be able to reduce this sound a little by loosening the fastening screws.

Let your baseboard heaters breathe: warm air has to be able to circulate freely around them. Keep furniture, curtains and other objects well away from this heat source.

SAFETY TIPDo not pile boxes or place large pieces of furniture up against the outside walls. This prevents adequate air circulation and makes it difficult to maintain a uniform temperature.


HEATING

CENTRAL FORCED AIR HEATING SYSTEM

A forced air system is fairly simple, and can be run from different energy sources. The most common are electricity, natural gas and oil.

Whatever energy source you use, the forced air system runs on the same principle: a fan (powered by a belt) blows preheated air through a network of ducts.

Various kinds of filters (electronic) can be added, but the furnace is generally equipped with one or two dust filters. Filters must be cleaned or replaced when necessary, and an inspection should be performed once a month.

HUMIDIFIER

ELECTRONIC FILTER


ENERGY SOURCES

Electricity, oil and natural gas are the main sources of energy used for households heating.


ELECTRICITYThis system is simple to operate and requires very little maintenance. You would be well advised, however, to familiarize yourself with its different components (filters, fan belts, and humidifier) and maintain them at regular intervals.

OILIf your heating system runs on oil, regular maintenance visits from your supplier will be necessary. Most suppliers of home heating oil offer annual inspection service, maintenance and repairs as an optional part of the service contract.

ENERGY SOURCES

SAFETY TIPIf you detect gas odours in the house:

1. Extinguish all cigarettes and avoid any flame2. Do not use any electrical switch3. Open the doors and a few windows4. Exit the house and call your gas provider

IN CASE OF BURNER FAILUREIf your system fails, follow these steps:

1. Check to see if there is oil in the tank.

2. Check the breaker.

3. Increase the set temperature on the central thermostat to maximum.

4. Press only ONCE on the RESET button on the burner control box.

If the burner does not start, reset all the controls to the “Normal” position, make sure that there is no oil coming out of the burner nozzle and call your supplier immediately.


NATURAL GASGas appliances do not have to be monitored as closely as oil heaters because they burn more cleanly and they have fewer mechanical parts.

Most suppliers of natural gas offer optional inspection and maintenance service.

THE PILOT LIGHTNormally, the pilot light remains on all the time. When needed, it lights the main burner.

If the pilot light goes out, a safety valve will immediately cut off the gas inflow. If you need to relight the pilot, read the instructions on the device carefully before attempting to do so.

Whether you are heating with gas or with oil, it is a good idea to take advantage of the suppliers’ inspection and maintenance contracts. This will keep you safe and comfortable.

ENERGY SOURCES


CONDENSATION

Condensation forming on your windows might make you think that your house has construction defects, that it is improperly insulated or that your windows are defective.

You might be surprised to learn that a well-built house is often more vulnerable to problems with excess humidity than other homes, and that, most of the time, it is caused by its occupants.

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CONDENSATION

It is normal in most homes for some condensation to form on the windows in winter. This is not new, but the problem has become more apparent with improved construction techniques that make homes more air tight and better insulated.

WHERE DOES CONDENSATION COME FROM ? From constructionMany of the materials used in building your home contain a certain degree of moisture. The foundation, the basement slab, the wood used in framing, the paint, finishing products – they all contain some humidity.

During the first summer season after construction, this humidity may not be able to escape efficiently because of high humidity levels in the outside air. Moisture will begin to escape from the building materials in the fall and during the first heating season.

Since water vapour tends to condense on cool surfaces, it first appears at the bottom of the windows, which are made of uninsulated glass.

From the occupantsThe building itself does not produce any more humidity once the moisture in construction materials has evaporated. After that, any humidity comes exclusively from the ambient air and from the occupants and their activities.

HOW MUCH WATER DO THE OCCUPANTS PRODUCE ?Human beings living in a house give off moisture: by perspiring, the body sends water vapour into the air. Some household activities can create large quantities of water vapour.

As an example, here is a table showing how many grams of water vapour are produced in one hour by various sources.

One person 30 to 200 g/h

Cooking 400 to 800 g/h

Dish washer 200 to 400 g/h

Shower 1500 to 3000 g/h

Bath 600 to 1200 g/h

Plants 7 to 20 g/h

(1 gram = 1 ml)


CONDENSATION

Production of water vapour will not make too much difference in the summer, but in winter, if you do not modify your habits somewhat, the excess moisture will accumulate on your windows.

HOW TO PREVENT CONDENSATION?There are two things you can do: increase the temperature of the air in the rooms where condensation is a problem, or lower the humidity levels in the air.

It is much more energy-efficient to control the humidity; it is far more efficient to reduce humidity by using an adequate ventilation system.

Bringing in cool outside air and heating it is a good way to manage humidity levels in the home. Air exchangers or mechanical exhaust systems are recommended as the best way to control relative humidity.

WHAT IS THE RIGHT LEVEL OF HUMIDITY?A glance at the table below will show you that the colder the outside air is, the more you need to decrease the humidity indoors. The reason for this is that warm air can hold a much higher percentage of humidity than cold air.

RECOMMENDED HUMIDITY LEVELS FOR EFFICIENT CONTROL OF CONDENSATION

Outside temperature in degrees Celsius

Maximum relative humidity preferred for an

interior temperature of 21°C

-28° or less 15 %

-28° to -23° 20 %

-22° to -17° 25 %

-16° to -12° 30 %

-11° to -6° 35 %

-5° to +4° 40 %


CONDENSATION

HELPFUL HINTIt is possible to decrease the amount of condensation forming on the windows by leaving curtains and blinds partly open, as this facilitates air circulation across the glass. It is also a good idea to remove screens for the winter for the same reason.

Keeping the humidity too low during the winter will in fact limit the amount of condensation on the windows, but it could cause other problems.

As an example, extended periods of 25 % humidity will cause excessive shrinkage of hardwood flooring.

The solution is to maintain an even balance and avoid both excessive condensation on the windows and serious damage to flooring.

We recommend that you never let the humidity level fall below 35 %.

CONSIDER THE FOLLOWING SITUATION:

During the day, the temperature outside is -4°C and the relative humidity in the house is 38 %. There is probably no condensation.

After dark, the outside temperature drops to -20°C and the relative humidity rises to 40 % because of cooking, showers, baths, etc.

Since the temperature of the glass has dropped, condensation will automatically form on the windows. The ambient air cannot hold the excess humidity, and water vapour droplets form on the coldest surfaces in the house.

To get a precise reading of the humidity levels in your home, use a hygrometer.


If you go away for a winter holiday, turn the air exchanger off. There is no need to let it run while you are absent since there will be no source of water vapour inside the house.

It is not good practice to store firewood or dry laundry in the basement. The water vapour given off by the wood and the drying clothing will raise the humidity in the air.

We strongly recommend that you not install a raised floor in the basement before the end of the first year, because the basement slab still contains too much moisture.

SUMMER CONDENSATION During hot, humid summer weather, it is very difficult for water vapour to escape from building materials.

Basement windows should be kept closed to prevent hot, humid exterior air from invading the house.

This situation can cause condensation problems on exposed concrete walls as well as on woodwork and drywall surfaces.

Since the foundation walls are sunk into the ground, the temperature at the base of the foundation varies between 12 and 14°C. Concrete is a conductive material, especially when it is fresh, because of the large amounts of water vapour it contains.

At that surface temperature, the dew point is reached when the relative humidity of the air attains ±70 %. Under these conditions, it is normal for traces of condensation to form on the inside surfaces of the foundation walls.

To prevent such condensation from forming – and to avoid potential problems with the resulting moulds that may appear – the home must be well ventilated and the inside temperature properly controlled. It is a good idea to heat home basements, even in summer, to keep the bottom of the walls at around 22°C.

CONDENSATION


CONDENSATION

We recommend that basement windows be kept closed during hot, humid weather to prevent humidity from settling along the base of the walls and accelerating the problem. We also recommend that the air exchanger be turned off for the summer, since it will bring hot, humid air into the home and into the basement.

Blade fans can be installed on the ceilings, furniture should be kept away from the walls to allow for better air circulation and a stable temperature should be maintained. All these will help keep you comfortable and prevent mould formation.

We also recommend that you use a de-humidifier during the first year after construction.

HELPFUL HINTSDo not pile cardboard boxes or other objects against the outside walls in the basement and do not store cardboard boxes directly on the concrete slab. Air must be able to circulate over these surfaces to prevent the formation of mould.

It is not a good idea to install a box bed directly on the concrete slab, because air remains trapped underneath and there is no circulation.

Make sure any basement closets are not filled with boxes that can prevent air circulation.

When hot air is prevented from circulating in a basement during the summer, the result is that condensation will form in the same way it does on beer bottles served in hot, humid weather.


WALLS AND FLOORS

Structural materials used in home building generally contain relatively high levels of humidity. From the moment you begin to heat your home, these materials start to contract, causing minor imperfections to appear. This is part of the normal behaviour of materials.


WALLS AND FLOORS

DRYWALL (GYPSUM PANELS)The interior walls of your home were finished with gypsum panels, commonly called “drywall”.

This material reacts to shrinkage of the structural members and it is normal that some small cracks may appear in the course of the first year, especially over door and window frames or at the joints between walls and ceilings.

Small circles may appear on drywall panels (nail heads). This is also a normal phenomenon, a result of stresses induced by normal shrinkage of structural elements.

HELPFUL HINTWait one year before undertaking any repair work, because the building materials take that long to become relatively stable.

Normal problems related to drying materials:

• Cracks in drywall joints

• Protruding nail heads

• Fine cracks in structural elements

• Minor gaps between cupboards or counters and walls

• Cracks in baseboards and joints on woodwork around doors and windows

• Some shrinkage of materials with resulting gaps at wall or joints

• Gaps between flooring strips, minor cracks in baseboards, door frames or jambs

• Minor gaps between stairs or stair mouldings and walls

• Some creaking of floors


WALLS AND FLOORS

HARDWOOD FLOORINGToday, there are a multitude of different wooden floor coverings on the market. These may be made of composite strips, wood fibre or solid wood, but all are wood products and therefore still contract and expand naturally with changes in temperature and humidity.

Because humidity levels are lower in winter, wood components tend to shrink, drawing apart and leaving gaps between strips or blocks in the flooring. In summer, this phenomenon will disappear quite naturally.

Varnish on the floors offers excellent protection, but it does have its limits.

A 90 kg (200-pound) person wearing ordinary flat shoes exerts less than 2.12 kg/cm2

(30 pounds of pressure per square inch) on the floor.

A 50 kg (110-pound) person wearing spike heels exerts more than 70.3 kg/cm2 (1,000 pounds of pressure per square inch) on the floor.

Pressure this great can damage a wooden floor, chip ceramic tile, pierce through a carpet and damage vinyl flooring.


INTERIOR DOORS AND WOODWORK

The interior doors in your house were probably factory-assembled using state-of-the-art tools and machinery. This ensures precision sizing. The same is true of finish moulding, whether it is made of wood or wood fibre.


INTERIOR DOORS AND WOODWORK

However, because the woodwork is fastened to the structural members, it is affected by any loss of volume. This may cause small cracks in the wood moulding around doors, frames and baseboards.

At the end of the first year, or when you decide to repaint, you can correct these minor defects with the appropriate products.


The smoke alarms must be wired directly into the electrical system and installed by a master electrician.

SMOKE ALARMS


The National Building Code (Quebec) stipulates that all new houses must be equipped with one smoke alarm on each floor, including the basement, as well as one per bedroom.

We recommend you test the alarm by pushing the test button at least once every six months. At the same time, remove any dust that may have accumulated on the mechanism.

Your contractor must also install a 10-minute interrupting device in case of a false alarm.

SMOKE ALARMS

SAFETY TIPFor increased safety, pick an electric smoke alarm equipped with a battery that will automatically take over in case of a power blackout. Keep a working flashlight in a convenient spot and get a portable fire extinguisher.


Prefabricated chimneys can normally withstand extremely high temperatures, but it is absolutely essential that they be properly maintained.

FIREPLACES AND CHIMNEYS


In spite of what you may think, a fireplace that is not used very often is actually a greater fire hazard than one that is used regularly. Frequent use helps burn off creosote that tends to collect in the chimney, and less creosote means less danger of chimney fires.

Nowadays, a fireplace is used mostly to make cold autumn and winter evenings more cheerful and agreeable. Nevertheless, before you sit down to warm yourself in front of the fire, you would be well advised to find out how to keep the fireplace functioning at its best… And, don’t forget, the chimney also has to be properly maintained.

FIREPLACES AND CHIMNEYS

SAFETY TIPThe chimney and its flues absolutely must be cleaned at least once a year.

Never burn garbage, plywood, stained wood, green wood or synthetics in your fireplace. Use only dry, real wood.

Very dry hardwood (from old furniture, for instance, or remnants of hardwood flooring) burns extremely hot and can cause warping or buckling of some kinds of fireplaces. Use this type of wood only for starting a fire.


MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE



ONCE A MONTH

• Clean the filters on the:

– kitchen range hood

– furnace

– air exchanger

EVERY THREE MONTHS

• Add water in floor drains to prevent unpleasant odours from coming into the house (as needed)

EVERY SIX MONTHS

• Inspect and clean smoke alarms

• Inspect weatherstripping on doors and windows (lubricate as needed)

• Inspect the roof, repair any damaged shingles, especially after wind storms

• Clean eaves troughs

AUTUMN

• Inspect the roof

• Disconnect and empty outside hoses

• Protect trees and shrubs

• Inspect outside electrical outlets to be sure they are functioning properly

• Sweep chimney

• Remove any accumulated leaves from around window wells

• Remove any pipes hooked into downspouts (if applicable)

• Inspect the sump pump to be sure it is operating properly



WINTER

• Never use de-icing salt on concrete sidewalks and balconies

• Never force windows open after an ice storm or if there is ice on the frames

• Keep balconies and rooftop terraces free of snow

• Keep drains open in case of winter rain

• Beware of piled-up snow

ANNUALLY

• Inspect exterior siding

• Repair any cracks in seal joints and finish


Notes

CHECKING OUT YOUR NEW HOMEINFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE GUIDE

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