, CHAPTER I11

PRODUCT SPECIFICATION

The need recognition process takes off the consumer to the world of alternative

means for satisfying the need. The physical transformation of the alternative

rneans appears in the form of product /service. 'It is a complexity of tangible

and intangible attributes including functional, social and psychological utilities

or benefits' (Theodore, L, 1984). Product can be an idea, a service, a good or a

combination of any of these three . In its real sense, a product is an assurance

or promise of benefits . By,ers purchase products in response to the promise

of satisfaction : promises with the image and appearance of symbols help

consumers to make judgements about the tangible and intangible products.

Basically, products fall into either of the two categories namely, industrial and

consumer products. Purchase intention, frequency of purchase, quantity, h

preference for buying source, amount spent, etc, are the important criteria for

the classification . 'Industrial products are bought for industrial use in a firm

for operation or for making other products'(Enis,M,1986). And 'consumer

products are bought by the 'ultimate consumers either for personal use or for

family needs' (James,D.S ,Martin,R. W and James,R.T, 1986).

On the basis of the characteristic and intended uses, 'industrial products can be

classified into seven categories: raw m&rials, major equipment, accessory

equipment, component parts, process materials, consumable supplies, and

industrial services' (Kotler, Philip and Gany, Arms trong, 2000). 'Consumer

products include convenience goods, shopping goods, specialty goods and

60

unsought goods9(Peter, D.B, 1988). Textiles are generally considered as a

consumer product as they are mainly consumed by the end user. However, it

call also be included under the category of industrial good when it is bought for

garment manufacturing units .

In the textile market consumers develop specifications in respect of the target

product mainly in terms of brand, quality, colour, fashion, fabric, readymade

garments, domestic as well as foreign textiles, and price. These aspects are the

focal points of discussion in this chapter.

Brand Preference

When a consumer steps into a shop for a purchase, he is welcomed by a variety

of products. Often this leads to confusion with regard to identifying or

distinguishing the target product from the whole lot. The situation seems to be

very complex, if the consumer is buying the product for the first time. Brand is

a name or a mark, which helps to identify the products of a seller or a group of

sellers. 'It differentiates the products from competing products'. Consumers

may view brand as an integral part of a product and branding can boost up the

value of the product. 'The key factors affecting demand are related to brand

attributes via either the marketing mix or consumer's purchase

experience' ( Rassel,S.N, 1986). When a product is identified under the label

of a brand name, it claims the specialities of the product in four dimensions

such as attributes, benefits, values and personality.

'Brand symbolizes a certain quality to the customer and in turn the

person lets that perception of quality represent the quality of the item'

6 1

(Staff, D.A, 1997). Consumers perceive a branded product as a product of

'superior quality' in their mind. And 'quality' in this context means the inherent

features of the product to satisfy the specific needdwants of the target market.

One's view of 'self' may include the image of the product or service that one

may purchase or consume. 'A psychological satisfaction may come from

owning a brand that symboli,zes status' . Accordingly, consumers will prefer the

most appropriate articles that go with their social status.

The way a product is perceived has much more influence on the behaviour of

consumers than any other objective characteristics of the product. A favourable

perception of the branded product will contribute an image to the brand. 'Brand

image is the sum total of impression the consumer derives from many sources,

from actual experience, and from the product's packaging' (Krishna, Naik,C.N

and Reddy, V.L, 1999). This leads to the acceptance of the branded product.

Acceptance of a brand can be considered the net result of four evolutionary

stages that take place in consumers' minds or perception. They are brand

recognition, preference, loyalty and insistence. 'Brand recognition is the ability

to identify a brand and one or more of its salient characteristics; brand

preference denotes consumer's inclination to select or choose a specific brand

of product in preference to others having a similar composition,cost,

performance or characteristics; and brand loyalty is the extent to which the

users of that brand repurchase it' ( Michael,J.E, 1998). Consumers seek

information about a branded product from either the mass media or a reference

group. After developing the awareness, they will evaluate it in relation to other

brands and this will kindle a spirit of preference towards the brand.

When customers go on purchasing the brand for their recurring wants, they

may be considered as customers having 'brand loyalty'- 'Brand insistence' is

the degree of brand loyalty i n which a customer strongly prefers a

specific brand' (Ferrell, O.C, and Pride, M.W, 2000). At this stage the customers

seem to be unwilling to accept a substitute. 'Thus, some brand names are so

powerful that they are now in everyday use' (Nigam, B, 2000). The brand that

has the greatest degree of social acceptance has a greater probability to be

insisted upon by the customers.

In the present context, the market is exposed to different types of brand such as

producer's brand, private brand, family brand, umbrella brand, international

brand, regional brand and generic brand. 'Producer's brand involves building

brand identity by applying a corporate name to products, while private brand

allows channel members to use their brand on a product' (Cravens, W. D, Hills,

E.G and Woodraff, B.R, 1996). Family brand denotes establishing brand for

product groupings or product line. 'We may have for all products the one name:

umbrella brand' (Sherlekar, S.A, 1995). 'Regional brand is that which meets the

needs specific and unique to a particular region' (Chatterjee, D, 2001). 'A

product distinguishing the name of the product itself without any other name I

such as producer's or retailers' is a generic brand' (John, P.J, 1998). When a

globally known brand of foreign origin becomes popular in the domestic

market, it is designated as international brand.

From a historical perspective, it is apt to state that in the textile market of Kerala,

63

demand for branded products has become prominent with the emergence of

'made ups, in the segment of gents' wear. However, certain products have been

identified with their manufacturers' name since its inception. 'Calico for

lawns', 'Khattavu for voile' and 'Finla for organdie' call be cited as the exam-

ples for manufactures' brand names, in respect of dhotis, casual wears and saris.

These brands have become popular in the domestic market mainly because of

their quality. Private brands of textiles are very popular in Kerala. Itinerant cloth

vendors sell casual wears under private brand.

Individual brands and umbrella brands are very common in the retailing scenario

of textiles in Kerala. Manufacturers like Raymonds, Vimal, Gwalior, S.Kumar,

Mafatlal and Bombay Dyeing are the important players of umbrella brand. They

have established a good image among the prospective buyers of shirting and

suiting items. Individual brand seems to be more prominent in readymade

garments, particularly in the segment of shirts. Park Avenue, Zodiac, Vivaldi,

Arrow and Double Bull are the classic individual brands in this segment. Interna-

tional brands are also getting grip on the textile market in Kerala. They are

considered as premium brand because of their high price. Consumers who

belong to the high- income group prefer it as an indicator of their status

Clothing communicates the occupational status of the wearer. Business

executives/ administrators/delegates/market makers, etc. like to project

their'occupational' image as a part of their job. They prefer the premium brand

simply on the ground that it generates a high perceived value for their image

and appearance. As a result,'certain brands in shirting and suiting are known as

'executive brands'.

64

Decision on selecting a particular brand of clothing depends on how consumers

position it in relation to other brands. 'Creating a desired perception and

occupying a particular point or space in consumers' mind is the essence of brand

positioning' ( Sengupta, S, 1 995). This is possible by the perceived attributes of

the brand in relation to closely competing ones. Functional features like colour,

style, texture, stitching, design and price are the main aspects that are taken into

account by consumers for positioning a brand.

Apart from the functional features, certain customer-oriented factors like

formation of opinion / attitude and personality seem to be influential for

positioning a brand. They are capable of generating brand preference or even

brand insistence. If a brand is advantageously positioned in the minds of

prospective consumers, it fetches repeat buying and thereby occupies a

legitimate share in the market. Certain attributes like self-esteem, pride, ego

starving, power and status are the factors that work out while purchasing a

branded clothing or garment.

International brands are positively positioned in the textile market of Kerala.

This has a special relevance in gents' wears. However, the women's wear

segment is dominated mainly by regional brands. It shows that consumers have

a positive attitude to branding strategy. 'With the branded product, they want to

be appreciated, to be complimented or to be made to feel important' (Buskrik, H.

R and Buskrik, D.B,2001).

The role of brand on the textile market of Kerala has been analysed in the study

by examining how consumers perceive it as an influential factor of decision -

making. Table 3.1 depicts the perceptions of consumers in the regional markets.

1 1 Results of Z test I1

Table 3.1 Perceptions of Consumers in the Regional Markets about the Influence of Brand

I1 Z test 1 Calculated Value ( Table Value / 5% level of Significance ( 1 1) TVM and EKM I 0.219 1 1.964 1 Notsignificant 11 1 TVM and KKD I 0.520 1 1.964 1 Not Significant 11

KKD N/,,%tototal

36.0

14.7

3 8.7

6.0

4.6

100.0

I D k g r e e of TVM N!,,%tototal

34.0

18.3

38.3

8.3

1.1

100.0

1

Total N/,%tototal

36.3

16.3

34.6

10.3

2.5

100.0 3

Emakulam shows a high rate (39%) of very high degree of influence and a low

EKM NIm%tototal

39.0

16.0

26.7

16.7

1.6

100.0

influence

Very High

High

Medium

Low

Very Low

Tot a1

EKM and KKD

rate (26.7%) of medium degree of influence. Besides, Kozhikode

accounts for a low rate (6%) and Ernakulam records a high rate (16.7%) of low

degree of influence. Kozhikode indicates another difference with a high rate

(4.7%) in very low degree of influence. This highlights a difference in the

perception of consumers about the influence of brand. I

Z test indicates that the difference in the perception between

consumers in Thiruvananthapurarn and Emakulam (0.2 19), Thiruvananthapurarn

and Kozhikode (0.520) and Kozhikode and Emakulam (0.280), is not significant.

Field Survey

0.280

The perceptions of urban, semi-urban and rural consumers has been

1.964 Not Significant

analysed in the study to provide a comprehensive picture of the influence of

brand on purchase of textiles. Table 3.2 shows the perceptions of consumers

in the urban, semi-urban and rural markets.

Table 3.2 Perceptions of Consumers in the Urban, Semi-urban and Rural Markets about the Influence of Brand

Field Survey

Degree of influence

Very High

High

Medium

Low

Very Low

Total

The urban consumers account for a high rate (39.6%) in very high degree

of influence. The semi-urban consumers appear to be different with a high rate

(22.3%) in high degree of influence and a low rate (29.3%) in medium degree

of influence. This group is further different by showing a high rate (13.3%) in ,

low degree of influence. Rural consumers record a high rate (41.3%) in

medium degree of influence. This indicates that there is a difference in the

perceptions of consumers in urban, semi-urban and rural markets about the

influence of brand.

Urban NI,, % to total

39.6

12.7

35.8

8.7

3.2

100.0

Results of Z test

Semi-urban N/, % to total

33.7

22.3

29.3

13.3

1.4

100.0

test

Urban and Semi-urban

Urban and Rural

Semi-urban and Rural

Rural NI,,, % to total

32.0

15.3

41.3

9.3

2.1

100.0

Total N/, % to total

36.3

16.3

34.6

10.3

2.5

100.0

5% level of significance

Not Significant

Not Significant

Not Significant i

Calculated Value

0.33 1

1.005

0.704 ., -

Table Value

1,964

1.964

1.964

67

The result of Z test reveals that the difference in the perception

between consumers in urban and semi-urban (0.33 I ) , urban and rural (1.005),

and semi-urban and rural (0.704) is not significant.

I11 order to supplement the perceptions of consumers, the opinion of the sales

forces has been analysed in the study. Table 3.3 shows the opinions of sales forces.

'I'able 3.3 Opinions of the Sale Forces about the Influence of Brand

Field Survey

MediumOutlets SmallOutlets Total N/476 % to total 39.6

The sales force who represents the medium selling outlets records a low rate

(34.5%) in very high degree of influence, and account for a high rate (1 7.6%) in

Bd' Medium

b w

Very Low

Total

high degree of influence. Those who belong to small selling outlets exhibit a

high rate (42.3%) in medium degree of influence; they do not have the opinion

that brand has a very low degree of influence. Therefore, there exists a

difference in the opinions iri this regard.

13.5

35.2

6.9

2.6

I00.0

Results of Z test

17.6

35.4

8.8

3.7

100.0

Z test

Large and Medium Outlets

Large and Small Outlets

Medium and Small Outlets

11.5

42.3

7.8

0.0

100.0

Calculated Value

1.162

. 0.215

0.434

14.5

35.6

7.5

2.8

- 100.0

Table Value

1.964

- 1.964

1.964

5% level of Significance

Not Significant

Not Significant

Not Significant

68

Z test shows that the difference in opinion between sales forces of large and

medium selling outlets (1.162), large and small selling outlets (0.215) and

medium and small selling outlets (0.434) is not significant.

Kcrala being a state of high literacy rate, consumers show keenness in evaluat-

ing thc various brands and position them accordingly. They consider that branded

textile products are instrumental in building up a perceived image

complimentary to their socio-economic status. The study reveals that the

consumers perceive that brand exercises a very high degree of influence on their

purchase decision. The sales forces also believe that the consumers have strong

brand affinity. When we view it from this perspective, it can be rightly remarked

that the branding strategy has a tenacious grip on the textile market of Kerala.

Quality

'Infatuation for quality products' reflects the perception of people about their

standard of living. They prefer to have products or services of high quality,

which will generate the expected level of satisfaction. In marketing parlance,

quality product refers to products having the capacity to satisfy the needs and

the wants of potential customers. Manufacturers/ marketers perceive quality

as the means to achieve their goal of profit maximization. 'Industries accept

customer satisfaction as a goal of quality function development because they

believe that in the long run satisfied customers are an asset of the firm' (Houser,

R.J and Griffin, A,1993).If a firm is capable of producing and selling products

with stipulated quality, they can gratify the target consumers. Gratified

consumers are the key to attain goodwill.

69

Customers' quality stipuiation and their expectation of satisfaction go hand in

hand. When they perceive a product having the stipulated quality, they expect

a set of benefits from it. 'Quality is the best assurance of customer allegiance'

(Business Wcek. 1992). If the benefits derived from the product balance with

their expectation, they will position it positively and thereby develop product

loyalty. The process of winning customers loyalty can be termed as customer

reten tion.

Generally, consumers accept a product out of their experience and give a

positive word of mouth to others or members of the reference group. It will

enable to sketch a perception about the product among the prospective buyers.

'Quality must begin with customer perceptions' ( Therrien, L, 199 1).

Consumers perceive the price of a product as the indicator of its quality and they

visualise a price-quality association. They believe that high- priced products are

high in quality and consider such products as the premium products. 'Price -

quality relationship also extends to the realm of consumption' (Kellaris,J.J,

1988). Thus, high price will be tolerated by consumers when the product is

superior in quality.

Preference for quality products may also be reflected in the form of a

favourable attitude towards branded products. Brand is perceived as a symbol of

quality. 'Consumers using a price or quality relationship are actually relying on

a well-known brand name as an indicator of quality without actually relying

directly on price' (Niternuer, G.R, Ridgway, M.M and Liechtenstein, R.D, 1993).

Accordingly, well-known brands are preferred by overlooking the price.

70

'Store selection' and 'store loyalty' of customers can be influenced by the

quality of products available at the store. Certain stores are well known in

terms of quality of goods sold. Consumers prefer such stores. for repeated

buying. 'Store information also has a positive effect on perceived quality but in

addition, they have a positive effect on perceived value and willingness to

buy' (Lavanka,M.N,1991). This will work as a driving force among those who

like to prefer a particular store in the light of store information obtained

from other customers.

In the textile market, customers take into account different parameters to judge

the quality of products. 'Properties of texture, consistency of colour and

finishing' are the determinants of quality. They perceive texture or fabric of

textile products as a superior quality after evaluating several attributes namely,

durability, wearing comforts, moisture absorbance easy wash etc. An important

point to be noted in this context is that they do not possess any 'acid tests' to

confirm the quality but perceive a product as a quality product in the tight of

their past experience.

Resistance against colour fading is another aspect, which is being considered

by the consumers in the textile market to judge quality. They believe that the

textiles manufactured by reputed firms have the added advantage of colour

guarantee, and they will patronize such products. Fineness of fabrics and the

potential to prevent from getting frayed are being accepted as the criteria for

quality assurance. In readymade garments, accessories are also evaluated to

confirm their worthiness. If a textile product is capable of complying with these

requirements, it is perceived as a quality product.

7 1

An attempt has been made in the study to evaluate how consumers in the textile

market of Kerala perceive the influence of quality on purchase of textiles. Table

3.4 shows the perceptions of consumers in regional markets about the influence

of quality.

'l'able 3.4 Perceptidns of Consumers in the Regional Markets about the Influence of Quality.

Field Survey

Thiruvananthapuram (87%) shows a high rate, in very high degree of influence.

Another notable feature is that in Thiruvananthapuram and Kozhikode, consumers

do not believe that quality exercises only low or very low degree of influence.

Emakulam (1 5%) and Kozhikode (1 5.7%) reveal a difference with a iow rate, in

high degree of influence. This makes it clear that there is difference in the

perception of consumers in the regional markets about the influence of quality.

Z test indicates that the difference in the perception between

consumers in Thiruvananthapuram and Ernakulam (2.821), Ernakulam and

KKD N/,,% to total

81.0

15.7

3.3

0.0

0.0

100.0

EKM N/,%tototal

80.3

15.0

2.4

1 .O

I .3

100.0

Ilegr;e of influence

Very High

High

Medium

Low

Very Low

Total

Total N/,% to total

82.8

13.1

3.2

0.3

0.6

1 00.0

TVM N!,%tototal

87.0

8.7

4.3

0.0 .

0.0

100.0

Results of Z test

Z test

TVM and EKM

TVM and KKD

EKM and KKD

5% level of Significance

Significant

Not Significant

Significant

Calculated Value

2.82 1

1.053

2.013

Table Value

1.964

1.964

1.964

Kozhikode (2.0 13) is significant, whereas between Thiruvananthapuram and

Kozhikode (1.053) it is not significant.

With a view to sketching a comprehensive picture, the perception of consumers

in the urban, semi-urban and rural markets has been analysed in the study.

Urban, semi-urban and rural.consumers have been contacted to assess how they

perceive the influence of quality on purchase of textiles. Table 3.5depicts

the perceptions of the urban, semi-urban and rural consumers about the

influence of quality.

Table 3.5 Perceptions of Consumers in the Urban, Semi-urban and Rural Markets about the Influence of Quality

Field Survey

The semi-urban consumers (74.3%) show a low rate and the urban

consumers record a high rate (88.9%) in very high degree of influence.

Tot a1 N/& % to total

82.8

13.1

3.2

0.3

0.6

The semi-urban consumers reflect a high rate (20.7%) while the urban group

Degree of influence

Very High

High

Medium

Low

Very Low

--- Semi-urban N/, % to total

74.3

20.7

3.4

0.3

1.3

Urban N/,,, % to total

88.9

7.5

3.6

0.0

0.0

Total

Results of Z test

Rural NI,, % to total

8 1.3

14.7

2.0

1.3

0.7

Z test

Urban and Semi-urban

Urban and Rural

Semi-urban and Rural

Calculated Value

4.25 1

2.060

1.351

Table Value

1.964

1.964

1.964

5% level of Significance

Significant

Significant

Not Significant

73

appears with a low rate (7.5%) in high degree of influence. Besides, it is

pertinent to state that the urban consumers do not perceive the degree of influence

as very low. This reveals that there is difference in the perception of consumers

in the urban, semi-urban and rural markets about the influence of quality.

I t has been made explicit by Z test that the difference in the perception between

the urban and semi-urban consumers (4.25 I ) , urban and rural consumers (2.060)

is significant, while, the difference between the semi-urban and rural consumers

(1 -35 1 ) is not significant.

To supplement the viewpoint of consumers, the opinions of the sales forces

have been analysed. Table 3.6 reveals the opinions of the sales forces about the

influence of quality.

Table 3.6 Opinions of the Sales Forces about the Influence of Quality

Field Survey

f.

Degree of influence

Very High

High

Medium

Low

Very Low

TotaI

Large Outlets N/,,, %tototal

88.8

8.7

2.5

0.0

0.0 '

100.0

Results of Z test

Small Outlets NI,, % tototal

75.1

3.9

19.2

1.8

0.0

100.0

Medium Outlets N/,,,%tototal

75.2

17.7

5.3

0.0

I .8

100.0

Total N/,, % to total

84.4

10.8

4.2

0.2

0.4

100.0

Z test

Large and Medium Outlets

Large and Small Outlets

Medium and Small Outlets

Calculated Value

2.962

2.910

0.945

Table Value

1.964

1.964

1.964

5% level of significance

Significant

Significant

Not Significant

74

The sales force that represents large selling outlets records a high rate (88.8%)

in very high degree of influence. Those who belong to medium (75.2%) and

small (75.1 %) selling outlets account for a low rate in very high degree of

influence. The sales forces of large (8.7%) and small (3.9%) selling outlets

indicate a low rate, while medium selling outlets exhibit a high rate (1 7.7%) in

high degree of influence. The sales forces of large and medium selling outlets

do not believe that the degree of influence is low and those from large selling

outlets do not consider that the degree of influence is very low. Hence, there is

difference in the opinion of the sales forces about the influence of quality.

Z test reveals that the difference in the opinion between the sales forces of

large and medium selling outlets (2.962), as well as between large and small

selling outlets (2.190) is significant. Yet the difference in the opinion

between the sales forces of medium and small selling outlets (0.945) is not

significant.

Consumers in the textile market of Kerala have a strong passion for quality prod-

ucts. Brand and price are considered as the indicators of quality. They form

opinions from their past experiences and tend to give a word of mouth. A positive

word of mouth lays the cornerstone for building up shop patronage. It is vivid

from the study that the quality of textiles exercises a very high degree of

influence on the purchase decision of consumers. The consumers in the regional

market of Emakulam as well as in the urban market have a distinct perception.

A similar feature is also reflected in the opinion of the sales force of large

selling outlets. It can be pointed out that rnanufacturers/marketers can achieve

customer retention by quality assurance.

75

Colour

Thc reddish-brown soil, the blue sea, the green vegetation, the yellow and pink

flowers have cloaked the land of Kerala in variegated colours. In order to offset

the colourfulness of nature, the Keralites used to prefer white or off-white

clothing. Traditional wears like 'Rouka' and 'Settmundu' (the communal dress

of the Hindu women), the 'Chatta', the 'Kachamuri' and the 'Kavani'(the

communal dress of the Christian women), the 'Jubbah' and the 'Veshti' (the

communal dress of the Hindu men), the 'Jubbah', the 'Veshti' and the

'Neryathu'(the communal dress of the Christian men), the 'Kuriyamundu' (the

common clothing of the low income group) were all white or off-white in

colour. Only members of royal families used coloured clothing as a symbolic

expression of aristocracy or social distinction .

With the march of time, Keralites started using coloured dress to cope with

the change in socio-economic environment, occupation and lifestyle, brought

about by the colonial movement. Besides the mass media like television, cinema

and magazines, the textile manufacturers and fashion designers also played a

vital role in popularizing a wide range of colours in textiles. Accordingly, the

age -old concept of white or off-white dress has been replaced with dress of

different hues in the colour wheel.

Preference for a particular clothing or garment is largely influenced by its

colour. Different individuals have different perceptions about the colour of the

dress to be worn. In the strict sense, 'no colour seems to be ugly; every colour

is beautiful if it is used in the right place and in the right context' (Gold Stein,

H and Gold Stein ,V, 1966). Though there are differences in taste or perception

76

about colour preference, certain common characteristics can be observed

among the consumers while choosing colour in textiles.

Colours have their own vocabulary to communicate one's own cmotion,feelings,

outlook and situational ethnicity in which they are used. Bright or eye-catching

colours are generally accepted as symbolic expressions of happiness whereas

pale or light colours suggest pathos. Because of this factor, certain colours

cannot be used everywhere and on all occasions. In order to have an appropriate

choice of colour, it is desirable to give a vivid picture of 'values and intensities'of

colours, which ultimately make a thing beautiful. Colours are perceived in terms

of their value, with degrees of brightness and lightness. 'White' is added to any

of the colours to obtain the light values, which are called 'tints'. 'The incremental

addition of 'black or grey' to a hue results in darker colour of the hue, known as

shades'. There are many terms to describe the perception of individuals about

their colour preference. 'Dark and light' is the blanket term used in common

parlance for colour distinction. The colours that are used in everyday life can

be classified into different groups. 'The authentic classifications are: hot, cold,

warm, cool, pale and bright' (Whalen, M.B, 1997).

'Colour conscious consumers' , keep their eyes open to good colour

suggestions. It is apt to state that they keep a 'colour file' in their mind and keep

on adding or subtracting hues in their 'colour file' as and when they are exposed

to various sources of colour suggestions. Magazines, illustrations in advertising,

electronic media, fashion designers, etc, can be identified as the important

sources of colour suggestions in the textile market.

77

Often,colour seems to be personal and universal as well. 'It has different

connotations for different timings, to different people, in different cultures or

sociological backgrounds. 'No colour is seen in the same way by any two

people'(Ha~npcstead, L, 1997). The preference for a particular colour while

purchasing textiles, depends on personal, social and environmental factors. Age,

occupation, complexion, lifestyle and emotion are the important personal

factors that influence the colour preference of an individual. Cultural background,

situational relevance and religious doctrines are some of the major social factors

that can exercise an influence on consumers while choosing colour for their

clothing or garment. Vegetation and climate are the environmental factors ,which

have an impact on colour preference for textiles.

Among all the personal factors that affect the preference for colour, age of an

individual is the most important one. In fact, dark or bright colour is generally

preferred by the youth or the teenagers whereas light or pale colour is often

used by the aged. Occupation is another personal factor that 'exercises an

influence on the colour choice of consumers. Professionals, executives, ad-

ministrators wear light or medium-coloured dress. Owing to this reason, certain

colours are known as 'executive colours; for instance; grey' is popularly termed

as 'executive grey' in textile parlance. In contrast to this, marketing personnel,

media persons and, artists prefer bright- coloured clothing. Besides, those who

are engaged in casual work have a tendency to prefer such clothiqg as their

'work dresses'. Workers in automobile and engineering sectors usually dress

in 'dark blue' which might be the antecedent of the colour choice for the most

popular apparel of the youth called 'jeans.'

78

Several other factors like complexion, emotion, feeling and lifestyle are also

capable of exercising an influence on consumers, regarding colour

preference. Complexion denotes the appearance of the skin or face of an

individual, and has a direct bearing on colour preference in textiles. Consumers

with fair complexion have a tendency to prefer bright- coloured clothing while

those with ~ncd ium or dark complexion prefer light-coloured clothing.

'Colours are capable of representing 'emotional ignition' .pink represents

romance. 'Tints of pink, lavender and peach reveal the romantic mood and

emotions of the user' (Whalen,M.B, 1997). Accordingly, pink colour is preferred

in romantic situations.

The cultural background of consumers can be captioned as the elementary

factor among the social aspects, which influences colour choice in textiles.

'Different cultures give different values for different colours' ( c ; a i g , ~ and

Hashand Rush, D.0, 1969). There is a notable difference in respect of the colour

preference between the Keralites and the people in other states of South India. In

tune with the cultural heritage, the Keralites generally prefer the 'softest shades

in the hue', as a symbol of gentleness. Colours have 'religious code'. Certain

colours have a high degree of perceived value from the religious perspective.

Accordingly, people prefer dress with such colours to be worn on occasions

having religious importance.

Colour preference has 'situational relevance'. Clothing with different colours

conveys the meanings, nature and importance of situations in which it is used.

AS a result, people prefer bright-coloured clothing to match with 'dressy

occasions' and light coloured clothing are used to match with the occasions that

are not dressy in character. As an environmental factor, climate has an impact on

colour preference in clothing. People who reside in the tropical' zone tend to

79

avoid dark coloured clothing as a measure against over sweating and other

health hazards. Natural vegetation can be pointed out as yet another

environmental factor, which influences preference for colours. People who

reside in places like Kerala, having colourful natural vegetation, usually prefer

pale or light coloured clothing.

Realising colour as a jostle for consumer mind- space, the study has made an

attempt to unveil how consumers perceive it as an influencing factor while

purchasing textile. Table 3.7 exhibits the perceptions of consumers in the re-

gional markets about the influence of colour.

Table 3.7 Perceptions of Consumers in the Regional Markets about the Influence of Colour

Field Survey

Low

Very Low

Total

Thiruvananthapuram (93.7%) and Kozhikode (94.3%) show a high rate while

Ernakulam (71.7%) indicates a low rate in very high degree of influence.

Ernakulam reports a further difference with a high rate both in high (18.7%)

0.0

0.0

100.0

2.0

0.3

100.0

I

Results of Z test

Z test

TVM and EKM

TVM and KKD

EKM and KKD

0.0

0.0

100.0

0.6

0.1

100.0

5 % level of Significance

Significant

Not Significant

Significant

Calculated Value

7.498

0.275

7.129

Table Value

1.964

1.964

1,964

80

and in medium (7.3%) degrees of influence. Thiruvananthapuram and Kozhikode

have another difference, which reveals that consumers in these regions do not

perceive that the degree of influence is either low or very low. This ventilates a

difference in the perception of consumers in regional markets.

Z test rnakes it vivid that the difference in the perception between consumers

in Thiruvananthapuram and Ernakulam (7.498) and Emakulam and Kozhikode

(7.129) is significant while it is not significant in the case of Thiruvananthapuram

and Kozhikode (0.275).

With a view to presenting an overall picture of the influence exercised by colour,

the perceptions of urban, semi-urban and rural consumers have been analysed

in the study. Table 3.8 shows the perceptions of consumers in the urban, serni-

urban and rural markets.

Table 3.8 Perceptions of Consumers in the Urban, Semi-urban and Rural Markets about the Influence of Colour

1 Degree of 1 Urban I Semi-urban I Rural

High 1 4.2 1 13.7 1 18.7

1 influence

Very High

Medium 1 0.4 / 5.3 1 5.3

Low I 0-0 I 1.3 1 1.3

NI,,, % to total

95.3

Very Low 1 0.1 1 0.4 1 0.0

Total 1 100.0 1 100.0 1 100.0

N!, % to total

79.3

Tot a1 NI,, % to total

74.7

II Results of Z test I1 Z test z l

Semi-urban and Rural 0.567 1.964 Not Significant -

Urban and Semi-urban

Urban and Rural

Field survey

6.180

5.283

1.964

1.964

Significant

Significant

8 1

The urban consumers record a high rate of (95.3 %), in respect of very high

degree of influence, followed by semi-urban (79.3 %), and rural (74.7 9%).

Furthermore, the semi-urban group (13.7 %) and the rural (1 8.7 96) exhibit a

high ratc, while the urban (4.2 %) appears with a low rate,in high degree of

influence. Urban consumers reveal another difference by perceiving the degree

of influence as neither low nor very low. The rural consumers show another

aspect of difference by not perceiving the degree of influence as very low. This

evinces that there is difference in the perceptions of consumers in the urban,

semi-urban and rural markets about the influence of colour.

Z test shows that the difference in the perception between consumers in the

urban and semi-urban markets (6.180), and urban and rural (5.283) issignificant

whereas that between the semi-urban and rural markets (0.567) is not

significant.

To validate the perception of consumers about the influence of colour, the

opinions of the sales forces have been analysed in the study. Table 3.9 shows

the opinions of the sales forces

Field su wey

The responses of the sales force of small selling outlets (80.7 %) record a low

rate and those of large selling outlets (91.9 %) indicate a high rate, in respect

of very high degree of influence. Besides, the sales force of small selling

outlets (19.2 %) and of medium selling outlets (17.7 %) exhibit a high rate in

high degree of influence. Though options related to medium, low,and very low

degree of influence had given to the sales force, none of them responded, to

them. Hence, it can be presumed that there is difference in the opinion of sales

forces about the influence of colour. I

Z test reveals that the difference in opinion between the sales forces of large

and medium selling outlets (2.473) is significant, whereas the difference

between large and small selling outlets (1.421) and medium and small selling

outlets (0.180) is not significant.

I Degree of influence

Very High

High

Medium

Low

Very Low

Total

Large Outlets N/,,, % to total

91.9

8.0

0.0

0.0

0.1

100.0

Results of Z test

Medium Outlets N/,,, % to total

82.3

17.7

0.0

0.0

0.0

100.0

5% level of Significance

significant

Not Significant

Not Significant

Small Outlets N/,, % to total

80.7

19.2

0.0

0.0

0.1

100.0

Table Value

1.964

1,964

1.964

2 test

Large and Medium Outlets

Large and Small Outlets

Medium and Small Outlets

Total N/,,, % to total

88.7

11.2

0.0

0.0

0.1

100.0

Calculated Value

2.473

1.421

0.180

83

In textiles, colour is one of the prime factors, which influence the

purchase decision of consumers. In a market like Kerala with educated custom-

ers, colour is being analysed on all possible dimensions. This reflects the unique-

ness of the Kerala market, which differs from the rest of the national market.

Social, cultural, religious, environmental and personal factors are considered

while choosing the ideal colour in textile. The study makes it evident that the

consumers in Kerala perceive the degree of influence of colour on textiles as

very high. Both the urban and regional markets of Ernakulam are characterised

by significantly different perceptions of consumers. When textile items are in-

ducted with the colour specification of the consumers, they will not have a pro-

longed shelf life in the shop.

Fabric

'Being well dressed means wearing dress that suits you and your

life- the things you do, the places you go to' (John, R .P and Mary, S.M , 1959).

Many factors affect the choice of clothing to be worn and its dimension ranges

from speciality of texture/ fabric, style, design, colour to cost at the buying point.

The lifestyle and the places where the wearer goes can be pointed out as the

primary factors for choosing special clothing. Based on this aspect of clothing,

the choice of fabric is seen to be largely influenced by the job, life style and the

places where one usually goes or visits. 'The dressing may be in a special way

for a particular job. It must be comfortable and sensible for the life' (Lucy, R,

Elizebeth, Majorie, T and Nellgiles, A, 1962). Accordingly, it may be stated

that the cloth collections of an individual represent mpstly such items which

are conducive to the easy carrying out of the routine work or job.

84

'The everyday clothes of an individual are probably the most important clothes

since others see him in them most of the times' (Carson. B. 1960).

Comfort and attractiveness are the two basic norms observed by people while

choosing fabrics for their daily use.Whatever be the occasion.one may like to be

looked extra nice and hence special clothing may be preferred for special occa-

sion. 'A special occasion gives several clues to how to dress up' . If the occasion

is more dressy, the role of speciality of fabrics seems to be very prominent and

the clothes to be worn on such occasions are planned or selected well in advance.

Choice of fabric depends on the community in which one lives. The fabrics

preferred by those who live. in urban centres are generally different from those

of semi-urban or rural people. 'The community we live in helps to determine the

people we know, the things we do, the places where we go, and therefore the

clothes we wear' ( Bess, V.0, 1960). In Kerala, the community assigns certain

dress codes, which are substantiated by religious and cultural

doctrines. Hence, consumers in textile market choose fabrics to cope with the

dress codes.

In tune with this aspect, consumers evaluate the fabric from the

perspective of their age and social role. Accordingly, the elderly people

and public servants try to avoid fabrics with glittering texture. One wants to

look as old as he is and so he chooses clothes that are suitable for his age

group. In other words, it can be remarked that one may change a lot in his lifespan

and his preference for fabric changes, too. One's social role is changing too

and so is the figure with the passage of time. Hence, one needs clothing to fit

his changing figure and to suit the changing role.

85

'It is obvious that weather has a lot to do with one's clothes' ( Pollard, L.B, 196 1).

Seasonal specialities can creep into the choice of fabric,^. It can be

presumed that due to the tropical climate, the inhabitants of Kerala generally

prefer cotton-based fabrics. However, in order to cope with the requirements of

widespread monsoon, 'rain wear' made of polyester or nylon are also consumed

especially by the womenfolk. One may feel fit while he wears certain types of

clothes. People may develop the practice of expressing their true personality by

wearing suitable and beautiful clothes. Choosing fabrics has an imp1 icit purpose

of exposing the true picture of one's own self or personality.

'Projecting one's self through clothing is a matter of profound

significance, while choosing the cloth one wears' (Caroline, E.W, 1960).

Besides, the consumer is interested in knowing the fibre content, which

ultimately affects the durability, appearance, comfort and suitability for

laundering of fabrics. 'Cloths made from each kind of fibre have their own

distinctive characteristics, which may be regarded as the inherent quality of the

fibre used' (Deaulkar, D, 1980). So the speciality of fabrics can be claimed as

the speciality of the fibre, to a considerable extent.

On the basis of speciality, fibres may be classified into natural, animal and

man-made. Natural fibres are mainly constituted by 'cellulose fibres' which

have their origin from 'cellulose of plant cells'. 'Cellulose is a complex

compound made up of carbon, hydrogen and oxygen, with the molecular

formula of (C,H,oO,)n . Cotton, hemprame and flex are the commonly found

cellulose fibres. Fibre strength, fitness, spiral or convulsion, moisture

absorbance and easy care are the outstanding qualities of cotton fabrics. At the

86

same time, water vapour from the body can easily pass through the cotton

fabrics. This facilitates evaporation, which makes cotton clothes an ideal

summer wear. Extra-long staple cotton is used when fabrics of fine count and

high strength are required. 'These are found in finely woven fabrics such as

lawn. organdie, voile, satin, hand kerchief fabrics, etc' ( Cowan, M.L and

Jungerman, M.E, 1980). 'Cotton fabrics are acceptable for any occasion and are

now highly fashionable as well as utilitarian' . The inhabitants of Kerala have a

passion for cotton fabric, due to their quality as comfortable wear. Shirting,

dhotis, saris, churidar, kids wears, 'T'-shirts, bed spreads, bathing towels and

sanitary clothing are the important types of cotton fabrics preferred by people

from all socio-economic strata,

Wool and silk are obtained from animals and are therefore called animal fibres.

The distinguishing feature of animal fibre is that it contains proteins; so, it is also

called 'protein fibres' . Wool is soft to touch and presents a fuzzy

appearance while silk has a luxurious soft texture: A fabric made of wool

produces sensation of sight, touch and even of smell. A silk fibre is equal in

strength to steel of comparable diameter. 'This strength has been utilized in

the past in such varied articles as hosiery and parachute clothes' . Kanchipuram

and Benaras silk products are considered as the prestigious clothing in Kerala.

As far as the climate of Kerala is concerned, the use of woollen clothes has

little relevance. However, people who live in the 'High Ranges' use woollen

clothes. Silk clothes are generally used as 'wears of dressy occasions'. The

main silk products marketed in Kerala are saris, skirts, jubbah, or kurthas.

87

There are two types of man-made fabrics, namely thermo-plastic and non

thermo-plastic. The former is soft and pliable while the latter is neither soft nor

melting with application of heat. These fibres are obtained from chemical

processes and hence they are also known as 'chemical or synthetic fibres'.

Polyester, nylon, rayon, dacron etc. are the most commonly found varieties of

man-made or synthetic fibre. 'These fibres can be made into fabrics suitable for

many needs and the desirable characteristics depend on the amount of fibre

present, the weave or knit, and the finish used in manufacture and garment

construction' (Marsh, J.T, 1979). Synthetic fibres also have wide use in Kerala

during the monsoon season. Properties like speedy dry up, laundering

comfort, wrinkle-free finishing, easy care, low cost, etc., have made this one

of the top fabrics in 'usage status'. Shirting, suiting, dhotis, saris, churidar and

furnishing materials are the important types of synthetic fabrics consumed by

the people in Kerala.

Considering the wide range of fabrics available in the textile market, their

influence on the purchase decision has been evaluated in the study by assessing

consumers' perception. Table 3.10 shows the perceptions of consumers in the

regional markets.

Table 3.10 Perceptions of Consumers in theRegional Markets about the Influence of Fabric

Field Survey

Ernakularn (60 %) records a low rate in very high degree of influence while

Thiruvananthapuram (31.7 %) exhibits a high rate in medium degree of

influence. A further difference can be noticed as Thiruvananthapuram (3.3 %)

indicates a low rate whereas Emakulam(l3.3 %)and Kozhikode (1 1 -3 %) account

for a high rate in medium degree of influence.Thiruvanantk~apurarn shows another

difference by highlighting that consumers in this region do not believe that the

degree of influence is either low or very low. This reveals that there is difference

in the perceptions of consumers about the influence of fabrics. . I

Degree of influence

Very High

High - Mediurn

Low

Very Low

Total

The result of Z test brings out the fact that the difference in the perception

between consumers in Thiruvananthapuram and Ernakulam (4.948) and

Ernakulam and Kozhikode(3.238) is significant,while it is not significant

between Thiruvananthapuram and Kozhikode (1 328).

TVM NI, % to total

65.0

31.7

3.3

0.0

0.0

100.0

Results of Z test

EKM NI, % to total

60.0

18.0

13.3

8.0

0.7

100.0

-- - .- KKD

N/, % to total

65 .0

23 .O

11.3

0.4

0.3

100.0

Z test

TVM and EKM

TVM and KKD

EKM and KKD

Total N/, % to total

63.3

24.2

9.3

2.8

0.4

100.0

Calculated Value

4.948

1.828

3.228

Table Value

1.964

1.964

1.964

5% level of Significance

Significant

Not Significant

Significant

89

The study has examined how consumers in the urban, semi-urban and rural

markets perceive the influence of fabrics on the purchase of textiles. Table 3.11

exhibits the perceptions of consumers in the urban, semi-urban and rural markets.

Table 3.11 Perceptions of Consumers in the Urban, Semi-urban and Rural Markets about the Influence of Fabric

Field Survey

The urban (67.7%) and semi-urban (57 %) show a high rate in very high degree

of influence.The semi-urban (12.3%) indicates another difference with a high

rate in medium degree of influence. Urban and semi-urban can be demarcated

from rural, because consumers in these markets do not perceive that the degree

of influence is either low or very low. This makes it clear that there is'difference

in the perception of consumers in urban, semi-urban and rural markets.

Z test shows that the difference in perception between urban and semi-urban

consumers (4.739) is significant, while that between urban and rural consumers

(1.773) and between semi -urban and rural consumers (1.80) is not significant.

Semi-urban NI,, % to total

57.0

23.3

12.3

7.4

0.0

100.0

Rural N/,,, % to total

64.7

21.3

10.7

2.0

1.3

100.0

Degree of influence

Very High

High

Medium

Low

Very Low

Total

Total N/, % to total -7

63.3

24.2

9.3

2.8

0.4

100.0

Urban N/,,, % to total

67.7

25.8

6.3

0.0

0.2

100.0

Results of Z test

Z test

Urban and Semi-urban

Urban and Rural

Semi-urban and Rural --

5% level of Significance

Significant

Not Significant

Not Significant

Calculated Value

4.739

1.773

1.800

Table Value

1.964

1.964

1.964

90

In order to validate the perceptions of consumers, the opinions of the sales

force have been analysed in the study. Table 3.12 depicts the opinions of the

sales forces about the influence of fabrics.

Table 3.12 Opinions ofthe Sales Forces about the Influence of Fabric

Field Survey

The sales force who belong to the large size (62.7%) and small size (65.3%)

account for a high rate in very high degree of influence. Those who belong to

the large size selling outlets (30.3%) record a high rate and those of small

selling outlets (19.2%) reflect a low rate in high degree of influence. There is

further difference between the opinions of the sales force of large and medium

selling outlets. None in the former group believes that the influence is low,

while the latter group does not perceive it as very low. This indicates a difference

in the opinions of the sales forces about the influence of fabrics.

Total N/,,, % ro total

59.8

28.6

7.5

2.5

1.6

100.0

~ e g e e ' o f influence

Very B g h

High Medium

Low

, Very Low

Total

ofLargeOutlets N/,,, % to total

62.7

30.3

5.2

0.1

1.7

100.0

Results of Z test

Z test

Large and Medium Outlets

Large and S ma1 I Outlets

Medium and Small Outlets

MediurnOutlets NI, ,, % to total

51.3

26.5

13.2

8.8

0.2

100.0

SmallOutlets N/,, % to total

65.3

19.2

7.6

3.8

4.1

100.0

5% level of Significance

Si@~cant -

Not Significant

Not Significant

Calculated Value

3.122

0.661

0.808

Table Value

1.964

1.964

1.964

9 1

It has been made explicit by.2 test that difference in opinion between the sales

forces of large and medium selling outlets (3.122) is significant whereas that

between large and small selling outlets (0.661) and medium and small selling

outlets (0.808) is not significant.

In textile market, consumers have strong perceptions about the type of fabrics

to be worn on different occasions. They evaluate fabrics in terms of their

functional features. High literacy rate has resulted in an increase of 'white-

collar job' aspirants. This has brought about a high demand for formal clothing.

On this ground, they do prefer low cost and durable fabrics. Silk fabrics are

preferred in order to cope with the dress code applicable to auspicious

occasions. Nevertheless, the study has thrown light on the fact that

consumers in both regional market of Ernakulam and urban markets have

different perceptions about the influence of fabrics on the purchase of textiles.

Fashion

The dynamism of human behaviour kindles the spirit of change or novelty. This

is reflected very vividly in preferences towards apparels. 'Rationally, no

individual lets himself exhibit one and the same in the eyes of others' (Flugel,J.F,

1 930). Catering to the requirement of distinctive appearance, helshe would

like to prefer clothing of different styles on different occasions. Fashionable

clothing can be considered as a medium for projecting different images of

individuals. And so, there is a passion for fashion in the textile market.

'The word fashion is mainly used to refer to the clothing's style of appearance'

(Brook,Y, 1995). It has a direct implication on novelty in texture, colour, design

92

and print, which make clothing or garment stylish or fashionable. Though

fashion is widely used in textiles, it must be understood that the influence of

fashion is applicable, ia other articles such as household utensils, ornaments,

and vchicles, etc. 'Fashion essentially involves changes; there can be fashions in

almost ally human activity from medical treatmcnt to pop music' (Eassy,M,1995).

The emergence of fashion cannot be considered a casual event or one without

any cause. It often reflects events like social change, techno-economic

development, political strife, etc. 'The essence of fashion has three dimensions,

namely absoluteness, reflection and change' (Verma, P, 200 1 ).Absoluteness means

the prevalence of the style at a given point of time. The time may be short or

long. Reflection denotes capability of fashion to express the sensitivity of

human behaviour to social, economic and technological phenomena. Change

refers to the potentiality of fashion to adapt to the changing phases of lifestyle

and perceptions of consumers.

Textile manufacturers and marketers are vigilant in observing the

frequency of changes in fashion so as to provide the prospective buyers with

clothing, which are currently in fashion. Generally, a particular fashion is

relevant for a particular point of time. When the masses begin to throw away a

fashionlstyle, the fashion becomes obsolete. Clothing with an obsolete fashion

is commonly referred to as 'out of fashion'. The concept of 'out of fashion'

operates in any of the elements of clothing such as texture/fabric, colour,

design, print, finishing. 'Some people stay away from dressiness and retire to

basic clothing' (Reuse, E,1989).Such clothing has a high degree of

functionality and seems to be fashionable over the time. And thus it may be

referred to as 'green fashion'. There are changes in fashion, which may affect

consumer values and ethical aspects including priorities. This trend in fashion

may be termed 'fashion fatigue'.

However, style is periodically reborn. This process has been designated as

'fashion cycle'. 'There are three categories into which fashion cycles fall and

they are seasonal, catastrophic and revolutionary' (Venna, P.2001). At the time

of its rebirth, there will be some changes in any of the elements, which constitute

novelty in the appearance of clothing.

Seasonal fashion cycle means the seasonal break of fashion in clothing. An item

of fashion may no longer be desired by people for climatic reasons. Usually,

seasonal fabrics and accessories are being affected by this type of fashion cycle.

Catastrophic fashion cycle is brought by certain catastrophic events like

outbreak of war or economic recession. This can cause a reduction in propensity

to consume among patrons of fashionable textiles. Consumers will rationally

plan their expenditure on textiles by avoiding fashionable products that are costly

in nature. This will be a hindrance to spreading fashion.

In the textile market fashion revolution can occur if the consuming

public have a zeal for it. When a style has the potential to obtain mass backing

from the public, it means that it can comply with many of the requirements of

the target consumers, namely novelty, comfort, economy and cultural harmony.

The currently popular fashion of 'churidar' can be pointed out as a fashion

revolution that has taken place in the textile market of Kerala. This has dislodged

the fashion of 'dhavani, the traditional wear of teenaged girls.

94

When a fashion has reached the zenith of its popularity, it is adopted by a large

number of people. This can be called 'fashion diffusion'. 'The theoretical

framework that postulates the diffusion of fashion may be called fashion

adoption '. 'On the basis of adoption of fashion, consumers may be classified as

innovators, early adopters, early majority, late majority and laggards'

(Everett,M.R,1962). Innovators are the dynamic consumers who are keenly

interested in inducting new fashions. Early adopters have a moderate level of

fancy for changing fashions. Early majority refers to the group of consumers

who like to evaluate the functionality of fashion. Late majority may be the

conservatives who cannot be easily influenced by the waves of fashion. The

laggards seem to be the defenders, who deliberately close their eyes to the

changing fashions.

In olden days, fashion was considered the mark of rank and wealth, because

only rich people could afford the luxury of eye-catching dress and the

extravagance of changing styles of dress. Now people who represent all income

groups and social strata have become the patrons of fashionable clothing. Owing

to this trend, many of the traditional dresses of Kerala have already gone out of

fashion.

'Articles about fashion are featured regularly in most national ,and local

newspapers, and fashion is a major subject area in most of the magazines for

women' (Richardson, J.K, 1973). The eye-catching coverage of fashionable

clothing inspires the consumers to focus on the product projected. It does a

spadework in consumers'.mind to create an interest in the product and

ultimately this will lead to a purchase intention. One of the powerful devices for

popularising a style is the mass media. Television ads strongly support a style

or fashion for its speedy diffusion. This has a strong impact on the attitude of

consumers with regard to information search for adoption of fashions.

Demonstrations, exhibitions, and window displays resorted to by the retailers

have activated the diffusion of innovative fashion within a short span of time.

A very explicit change has been witnessed in gents' wear. Traditionally, men in

Kerala preferred 'white' dhotis. With the mass switch over of consumers to trou-

serslsuiting, dhoti has already gone out of fashion. Now, dhoti is considered as a

special wear to be used on cultural or religious occasions. Women in Kerala

continue to prefer aesthetic designs, which go with the cultural background.

However, they prefer timely innovations in the aesthetic components of prints

or designs. The popularity of innovative designs of 'chungidi saris' can be pointed

out as the best example of this trend.

The ready made garment segment is instrumental in popularizing fashion. As

numerous brands are competing with one another, consumers are exposed to

fashion dynamism. New patterns, designs, colours and accessories are launched

by leading manufacturers of readymade garments. 'Computer Aided Designs'

(CAD) are used to cope with fashion innovations.

Dress materials of teenagers can be identified as a 'fashion sensitive segment'

in the textile market. Western clothes like jeans, short tops, miniskirts, frocks,

'T' shirts etc have become part and parcel of the lifestyles of the teenagers.

'Kids wear' is highly fashion oriented in character. This has a special relevance

in Kerala, as the Keralites take extreme care in dressing up their children.

Acknowledging the alluring importance of fashion on textile consumption, the

study has attempted on examine how consumers in Kerala perceive the influence

of fashion on their purchase decision. Table3.13gives the perceptions of

consumers in the regional markets.

Table 3.13 Perceptions of Consumers in the Regional Markets about the Influence of Fashion

Field survey

Degree of influence

Very High

High

Medium

Low

Very Low

Total

Kozhikode (44.7 %) indicates a high rate and Emakulam (33.3 %) records alow

rate in very high degree of influence. Thiruvananthapuram appears with a high

rate (34%) in medium degree of influence. And consumers in this region do

not perceive that fashion exerts only a very low degree of influence. Emakulam

(17%) shows a further difference with a high rate in low degree of influence.

This evinces a difference in the perceptions of consumers in regional markets.

Z test brings out that the difference in perception between consumers in

Thiruvananthapuram and Ernakulam (5.540), and between Ernakulam and

TVM NI, % to total

39.7

24.7 -

34.0

1.6

0.0

100.0

Results of Z test

EKM N/, % to total

3.3

14.0

30.3

17.0

5.4

100.0

Z test

TVM and EKM

TVM and KKD

EKM and KKD -.-

KKD N I , % to total

44.7

17.3

35.3

2.0

0.7

100.0

Calculated Value

5.540

0.131

5.498

Total NI, % to total

39.2

18.7

33.2

6.9

2.0

100.0

Table Value

1.964

1.964

I .964

5% level of Significance

Significant

Not Significant

Significant

97

Kozhikode (5.498) is significant while that between Thiruvananthapuram and

Kozhikode (0.13 1) is not significant.

Targeting a differential dimension of the analysis of influence exercised by

fashion, the perceptions of the urban, semi-urban and rural consumers has

been taken into account in the study. Table 3.14 depicts the perceptions of

consumers in the urban, semi-urban and rural markets.

Table 3.14 Perceptions of Consumers in the Urban, Semi-urban and Rural Markets about the Influence of Fashion

Field survey

Low

The urban consumers account for a high rate (60.4%) whereas semi-urban

(15.7%) and rural consumers (22.7%) show a low rate in very high degree of

influence. As against this, the semi-urban (48.7%) and rural (46.7%) consumers

indicate a high rate while urban consumers reveal a low rate (1 8.4%) in medium

degree of influence. The semi-urban (1 1.7%) and rural (1 1.3%) consumers are

Very Low

Total

0.0

100.0

Results of Z test

13.8

1 00.0

Z test

Urban and Semi-urban

Urban and Rural

Semi-urban and Rural

5.0

100.0

6.0

1 00.0

5% level of Significance

Simcant

Significant

Significant

Calculated Value

14.827

9.756

2.120

Table Value

1.964

1.964

1.964

98

further different with a high rate in low degree of influence. This indicates a

difference in the perceptions of urban, semi-urban and rural consumers.

Z test proves that the difference in perception between consumers in the urban and

semi-urban marke& (14.827) and in urban and rural markets (9.756), and semi-

ui-ban and rural markets (2.120) is significant.

In order to validate the viewpoints of consumers ,the opinions of the sales forces

have been evaluated in the study. Table3.15 reveals the opinions of the sales

forces.

Table 3.15 Opinions of the Sales Forces about the Influence of Fashion

Field Survey

i LOW

Very Low

Total

The sales force of large selling outlets (59.9%) exhibit a high rate whereas

medium (17.7%) and sma11(26.9%) outlets give a low rate in very high degree

of influence. A further difference is shown by those who represent

medium (50.4%) and small (46.2%) selling outlets with a high rate in medium

4.2

3.5

100.0 .

Results of Z test

8.8

0.8

100.0

Z test

Large and Medium Outlets

Large and Small Outlets

Medium and Small Outlets

7.7

3.9

1 00.0

Calculated Value

7.375

3.246

0.303

5.6

2.9

100.0

Table Value

1.964

1.964

1.964

5% level of Significance

Significant

Significant

Not Significant

99

degree of influence. On the contrary, the sales force of large selling outlets

(15.3%) records a low rate in medium degree of influence. This conveys a

difference in the opinions of sales forces.

Z test rcvcnls that the difference in opinion between the sales force of large

;md medium selling outlets (7.375), and large and smail selling outlets (3.246)

is significant. But the difference between the medium and slnall selling

outlets (0.303) is not significant.

Kerala being a state of high literacy rate, people seem to be very selective in

adopting fashion. Colour, design, print and pattern are the explicit aspects that

are considered by consumers of Kerala in adopting a fashion. Cultural harmony,

economy and compatibility with occupational status or social role are the

implicit aspects that are taken into account for arriving at a decision - whether a

fashion is to be adopted or avoided. The study reveals that fashion exercises a

very high degree of influence on the purchase decision of consumers. However,

the gravity of influence of fashion on consumers in urban as well as in regional

markets of Ernakulam is comparatively higher than in other markets. If a fashion

in clothing has been designed in tune with the acuity of consumers, it will remain

a 'green fashion' for a long time.

#

Readymade Garments

Modem man is busily engaged in his routine work and domestic affairs as well.

He hardly finds time even for recreation. In such a context, he cannot be blamed,

if he perceives 'approaching a tailor and visiting him repeatedly for getting

stitched the cloth' as a time - consuming process. Besides, the traditional method

100

of tailoring frequently results in imperfectness in terms of finishing. If a costly

cloth is tailored in a defective manner, it will create a mental agony for the

person concerned. The concept of readymade 1 ready- to- wear garments has

transpired in the textile market scenario as a remedial measure against the usual

complaints of those who use tailor-made clothes. The habitual change of the

consumers in the textile market by switching over from tailored clothes is the

net result of the characteristic features of readymade garments, such as

capability of creating image, fashion or style, print, finishing and standardisation

of quality through identifiable brands.

"Image building" is part and parcel of projecting the personality of an indi-

vidual. The unique way of dressing up has been accepted as a medium for building

up the image. The potential of a style of clothing to create an 'esteem appearance'

for the wearer is viewed as its uniqueness. Since readymade garments are unique

in appearance, they have been accepted as the ideal wear. Fashion1 style and

colour are the major components, which make the ready -to - wear garments

distinctive in the eyes of the public. The innovative approach is .ranging from

the texture to the accessories. The perceived value of ready-to-wear garments

can gratify the consumers who have the strong desire to display their socio-

economic status. Therefore, they are patronised mainly by consumers who

belong to the upper strata in the society.

The textile market is in the upswing of fashion dynamism. The present day

consumers are well informed about the changing trends in fashion as

fashionable textile products are promoted through the mass media. 'The in-

creased propensity to consume has shortened the distance between an average

consumer and the costly fashionable textiles. Apparel is considered as a typical

fashion product' ( Rhee,Y.E., 1995) . .Those who have a

and sober styles prefer them. This is conducive to bring forth a favourable

environment for marketing ready made garments in the new century.

The novelty-seeking consumers are fascinated by the fancy prints and they tend

to avoid the conventional ones while buying textiles. 'The basic difference

between the conventional prints and the fancy prints is that the conventional

prints are printed to cover the overall surface of the fabric whereas fancy prints

are normally printed on a specific, limited area of the fabric' (Gupta, P, 2001).

The use of fancy prints has improved the aesthetic quality of apparels. Readymade

garments are rich in fancy prints as the manufactures have already inducted

'Computer Aided Designing' (CAD) to cope with the growing demand for

innovative prints. The institutions for fashion designing and apparel style are

alert in providing the manufacturers with fascinating fancy prints. It is

reasonable to think that the readymade garment sector has absorbed the spirit

of novelty seeking in its true sense. This has ultimately resulted in customer C

retention and expansion of market share.

'Looking for perfection' in dress can be attributed to be a distinctive feature of

consumers who maintain a modern lifestyle. Perfection is measured mainly

with the parameter of 'finishing'. Readymade garments are capable of complying

with the requirements of those who seek perfection in its strict sense. 'Regarding

ready-to-wear garments, the finishing ranges from the unique silky and peach

to the sand-washed, stone-washed or washlook variety' (Clothesline, 1996).

Manufacturers are keen in introducing apparels with excellence, so as to match

102

with the taste and preference of the target consumers. This has provided a strong

footing for the readymade garment sector in the textile market.

The emergence of ready-to-wear garments has kindled the spirit of 'brand

preference' among the consumers. Nulnerous brands have been launched and

popularised by the manufacturers of apparels. 'A study of the market reveals that

the consumer is directly moving towards brand identification and standardisation'

(S hrikande,G.S, 2000). Branded garments are considered exemplary in quality,

perfection and uniqueness. The promotion campaigns especially through the mass

media bring infonnation about brands even to the rural folk and thus an average

customer is adequately exposed to the specialities of different brands. The change

of consumers in the direction of developing a positive attitude towards branded

textiles can be considered as a fertile ground for the readymade garment sector to

crop up popularity and acceptance in the market.

'The ready made garment market comprises with different segments. The total

market can be broken up into men's wear, women's wear, children's wear and

baby wear' (Apparel Fortnightly,2000) .The magnitude of each segment is

determined by the age group and the purchasing power of the prospective

buyers. However, in the Kerala market, several other factors like occupation,

socio-economic status, outlook towards fashion,, situational relevaqce etc. are

considered by the consumers while they decide to opt for ready-to-wear instead

of tailor-made clothes.

The men's wear segment holds the apex position in the Kerala market in terms of

the depth and width of the product line. Shirt and suits mainly constitute this

103

segment. Based on brand, the men's wear segment can be divided into four

groups namely premium, national, local and unbranded. The premium sector is

represented by the international brands, which are sold at a high price. Local

manufactures produce men's wear under their brand name for the local market.

As numerous brands are available, consumers have become conscious of

perfection of apparels. For instance, 'the concept of perfect shirt came up with

the international brands educating the consumers on what a shirt must look, feel

and wear like'(Sanjay, C, 1996). This has developed awareness among the

consumers about readymade men's wear to perceive it as a value added product.

The amazing popularity of 'churidar' among the women in Kerala has

contributed much to the growth of the women's wear segment of ready-to-wcar

market. Economy, comfort, durability and innovative fashion have uplifted

churidar as a ready-to-wear item of mass consumption. Considering the high

potential of this segment, many national as well as local brands are competing

with one another to win a sizeable market share. Consumers have a passion for

readymade churidar mainly because of its style, colour, finishing, texture,

accessories, etc, in order to cope with the fashion waves. Traditional folk arts

are used as the inputs for developing innovative designs. 'Since the appetite for

new fashion in the modem society is insatiable, the Indian folk arts play an

important role in the present fashion world' (Jacob, M, Priya,V and Anita, D.

2001). In a micro sense, the women's wear segment of ready-to-wear market

constituted by churidar is characterised by ample demand potential.

Are men and women only fashionable ? An emphatic 'No' can answer the complex

question in the simplest way. In the present context, children are fashion-

conscious. 'Clothes for children are a symbol of security, an extension of self,

a way of identifying with someone, and thus a real means of satisfaction' (Sethu,

R,2002). Kids' ready-to-wear is highly fashion sensitive. As Keralites give

stunning importance to child-care, the kids' ready-to-wear has become a

prominent sector of the apparel market. Several exclusive selling outlets have

been floated to tap the increased demand potential for kids' wear.

Acknowledging the emerging trend of the ready-to-wear sector, its influence

on the purchase decision has been analysed in the study by evaluating the

perceptions of consumers~~ Table 3.16 depicts the perceptions of consumers in

the regional markets.

Table 3.16 Perceptions of Consumers in the Regional Markets about the Influence of Readymade Garments.

/ / Medium 1 37.0 1 35.0 1 45.3 1 39.1

Degree of influence

Very High

11 Low I 5.3 1 11.4 1 7 .O 1 7.9 11

TVM NI, % to total

31.7

1 Total 1 100.0 1 100.0 1 100.0 1 100.0 1 /

I! Results of Z test I/

EKM NI,, % to total

35.3

I! -- - --

t e s t 7 Calculated Value ( Table Value [ 5% level of Significance / /

very LOW

Field Survey

KKD NI, % to total

26.7

Total NI, % to total

31,2

1.0 ,

I

2.0 2.5 11 4.3

105

Emakulam (35.3%) shows a high rate while Kozhikode (26.7%) accounts for a

low rate in very high degree of influence. Thiruvananthapuram (25%) indicates

a high rate and Kozhikode (16.7%) records a low rate in high degree of

influence. Kozhikode (45.3%) is still different with a high rate in medium

degree of influence. This shows a difference in the perceptions of consumers

in the regional markets about the influence of readymade garments.

It is evident from Z test that the difference in perception between consumers

in Thimvananthapuram and Emakulam (1.087), is not significant whereas that

between Ernakulam and Kozhikode (2.161) and Thiruvananthapuram and

Kozhikode (3.16 1) is significant.

Targeting a different dimension of the analysis, the perceptions of

consumers in the urban, semi-urban and rural markets have been analysed in the

study. Table 3.17 shows the perceptions of consumers in the urban, semi - urban

and rural markets. -

Table 3.17 Perceptions of Consumers in the Urban, Semi-urban and Rural Markets about the Influence of Readymade Garments.

Field Survey

Low

Very Low

Total

6.4

3.4

100.0

Results of Z test

9.3

2 .O

100.0

5% level of Significance

Significant

Not Significant

Not Significant - .-

Z test

Urban and Semi-urban

Urban and Rural

Semi-urban and Rural - ,

9.3

0.7

100.0

7.9

2.5

100.0

Calculated Value

2.392

1.389

0.526

Table Value

1.964

1,964

1.964 --

106

The urban unit (36.4%) exhibits a high rate in very high degree of influence

whereas semi-urban (41.7%) reveals a high rate in medium degree of

influence. The rural unit (28 %) shows another difference with a low rate in

very high degree of influence. It also accounts for a high rate (43.3%) in medium

degree of influence. This highlights a difference in the perception of the

consumers in the urban, semi-urban and rural markets about the influence of

readymade garments.

Z test brings out that the difference in perception between consumers in the

urban and semi-urban markets (2.392) is significant, while that between the

urban and rural markets (1.389) and semi urban and rural markets (0.526) is not

significant.

To authenticate the viewpoints of consumers, opinions of the sales forces have

been analysed in the study. Table 3.18 shows the opinions of the sales forces.

Table 3.18 Opinions of the Sales Forces about the Influence of , Readymade Garments

Field Survey

107

The sales force of large selling outlets (38.3%) show a high rate whereas medium

(26.5%) and small (26.9%) selling outlets account for a low rate in very high

degree of influence. Those who belong to the medium (43.3%) and small

(46.1%) selling outlets record a high rate in medium degree of influence. The

sales force of large selling outlets (36.6 %) indicates a further difference with

a low rate in medium degree of influence. This reveals the difference in the

opinions of the sales forces about the influence of readymade garments.

Z test shows that the difference in opinion between the sales forces of large

and medium selling outlets (2.1 18) is significant, while that between the large

and small selling outlets (0.972) andmedium and small selling outlets (0.246)

is not significant.

The concept of perfect wear is the slogan of the present-day textile

market. The socio-economic changes of the prospects and the induction of

perfectly made ready-to-wear have become instrumental in bringing about a

drastic change in the attitude and perception of consumers about tailor-made

clothes. The study reveals that consumers perceive their preference for

readymade garments that exercises a high degree of influence on purchase

decision. The urban and the regional market of Emakulam are featured by a

significantly different perception of consumers when compared with other

markets. At this juncture, it can be stated that the phenomenal change in the

perception of consumers has paved the way for the growth of the ready-to-wear

segment in the textile market of Kerala.

Domestic Products

Prior to the advent of colonialism, Indian consumers bought and used textiles

of Indian origin only. They were found to be contented as the traditional

textiles of India could comply with all their requirements of clothing 'Hand

spinning and weaving, though carried on a small scale and developed slowly

as a cottage industry, had reached a high stage of perfection, even as early as

327 BC' (Bai, T and Daulkar, D.1980). Later on, the clothing produced by

the textile mills of Manchester was brought to India and this came to an end

with the independence of the country. Thereafter, the Government patronised

and promoted mainly the Indian made textiles i n the domestic

market.

The consumers in Kerala have a passion for foreign products. This is very

prominent in the case of food products and electronic equipments. H0wever.a

paradoxical phenomenon can be observed with regard to textile products.

Keralites prefer domestic textile products on the ground that they will match

with their cultural values and backgrounds. They consider clothing as the

semiotic expression of their perception about the situation or the

occasion. It indicates that there is a 'dress code' for every situation. 'The term

'code' is defined as the knowledge that must be shared by the addressor and the

addressee of a clothing message, for the former to create this message and for

the latter to understand it' (Rooth, J.V and Mc Craken, ~ . ~ , 1 9 8 9 ) . Domestic

textile products seem to be more competent to satisfy the requirement of the

dress code,

109

The aesthetic design and colour of domestic textile products can be

identified as the seedbed for germinating a positive perception about its

competency to match with the dress code. The designs and prints of the textile

products of Indian origin are the reflections of 'Indian rituals' or 'oriental

carvings' which are based on cultural backgrounds. This has a special relevance

in the case of handloom and khadi textile products. The traditional textiles of

India reveal the background of a rich culture. 'They give an artistic shape and

form to the ideals which inspire the lives of the people and thus provide one of

the most reliable hallmarks of the cultural development of the

people'(Dungerkery,S . a 9 80). 'The way of thinking is the same between

designers across the world; only the emphasis changes because of culture'

(Pande,A, 2001).

The textile industry in India is the single largest industry, which

provides maximum employment for the people. Patriotic consumers prefer

Indian textile products on the ground of their vision to support the

textile industry. Such consumers seem to be the patrons of handloom and khadi

textile products.

Clothing is generally considered as the manifestation of the traditional back-

ground. As a result, people in Kerala are keen in wearing domestic textile

products on occasions of cultural and religious festivals. Perhaps this is the

reason for wearing handloom clothing on the days of Onam and Vishu. An

emerging trend can be observed among Keralites with regard to wearing

handloom clothing on the lSt of November, since this day is beingcelebrated as

the 'Kerala day'.

110

Certain typical textiles like dhotis, settmundu, kasavmundu etc are very popular

among the consumers in Kerala. Such textile products seem to be ideal for the

'situational ethnicity' of clothing in relation to auspicious occasions like

marriage, puja, special prayers etc. On this ground, people in Kerala do not like

to have a substitution or change in their 'traditional wears'.

The consumers in Kerala prefer domestic textile products because of

wearing comfort also. Cotton handloom fabrics seem to be ideal as 'summer

wears. 'Crepe' textiles have special relevance as summer wear. Both mill and

handloom sectors produce summer wears made of crepe. Now-a-days, crepe

'made ups' are also available in the textile market of Kerala.

In tune with the consumers' preference for handloorn products, the

Government of Kerala has been supporting the marketing of handloom

products. Government authorised selling outlets such as Hantex, Hanveev;

Khadi and Village Industries have branches throughout the state. These agencies

have expanded their operation by floating selling outlets in other states. Keralites

who are domiciled in other states are their target. Besides, the Government of

Tamilnadu has entered the Kerala market for promoting sale of their handloom

products. A network of selling outlets under the trade name 'Co-optex' is being

operated in important cities and towns.

Targeting the high volume of textile consumption dur ing festival

seasons, self-employment groups, Government agencies, co-operative societies

etc promote the sale of handloom products in Kerala market by organising

'Melas'. In its strict sense a Mela is the exhibition of handloom textiles produced

in kerala and in other states. This provides consumers with an opportunity to

1 1 1

have an exposure to different varieties of handloom textiles. In order to motivate

consumers, rebate is offered in the Mela.

In the readymade garment sector, the domestic brands are found to be

dominating. Many garment-manufacturing units have come out with local or

regional brand names. heir main lines of products are shirts, trousers,

churidar, nightwear and kid's wear. All these products are low priced,to match

with pockets of consumers who represent the low-income group.

The present study throws light on the influence of domestic products on the

purchase of textiles, by evaluating consumers' perceptions. Table 3.19

exhibits the perceptions of consumers in the regional markets.

Table 3.19 Perceptions of Consumers in the Regional Markets about their Preference for Domestic Textile Products.

1) Medium ( 5.3 1 11.3 1 2.0 1 6.1

1 Total (

II Results of Z test

II Z test

very Low

( Calculated Value I Table Value ( 5% level of Significance

1 ) TVM and EKM 1 4.700 1 1.964 1 Significant

0.0

I TVM and KKD I . 1.706 1 1.964 1 Not Significant

1 6.260 1 1.964 ] Significant

0.7

I I I

Emakulam (71.3%)shows a low rate and Kozhikode reveals (90%) a high rate

in very high degree of influence. A further difference is indicated by Ernakulam

with a high rate both in high degree (15.7%) and in medium degree (11.3%) of

0.3 1.0

112

influence. Consumers in Thiruvananthapuram have not perceived the degree of

influence as either low or very low. Kozhikode region is still different because

consumers in this region do not believe that the degree of influence is low.

This reveals the difference in the perceptions of consumers in the regional

markets about the influence of domestic products.

Z test reveals that the difference in perception between consumers in

Thiruvananthapuram and Ernakulam (4.700) and between Ernakulam and

Kozhikode (6.260) is significant, whereas that between Thiruvananthapuram

and Kozhikode (1.706) is not significant.

Aiming at a detailed enquiry in the study, the perceptions of consumers in the

urban, semi-urban and rural markets about the influence 'of domestic

products have been analyzed. Table 3.20 depicts the perceptions of consumers

in the urban, semi-urban and rural markets.

Table 3.20 Perceptions of Consumers in the Urban, Semi-urban and Rural Markets about the Influence of their Preference

for Domestic Textile Products. 1 Degree of 1 Urban r~emi-urban 1 Rural 1 Total (1

influence Very High

Medium

LOW

11 Results of Z test / I

NI,, % to total

87.3

Very Low

Total

II z test

3.3

0.0

1 Calculated Value 1 Table Value I 5% level of Significance / /

N/,, % to total . 80.3

- -

0.3

1 00.0

8.7

0.7

11 Urban and Rural 1 1.712 1 1.964 ( Not Significant 11

N/,,, % to total 73.3

- -

0.3

I00.0

1 11 Serni-urban and Rural ( 0.566 1 1.964 1 Not Significant

N/, % to total 80.4

10.0

0.7

Field survey

7.4

a 0.3

0.7

100.0

Urban and Semi-urban

0.3

100.0

. 3.280 1.964 Significant

113

The niral sector (73.3%) indicates a low rate in very high degree of influence

while the urban sector (3.3%) reveals a low rate in medium degree of influence.

It shows a further difference by highlighting that consumers do not perceive the

degree of influence as low. This educes the difference in the perceptions of

consumers in the urban, semi-urban and rural markets about the influence of

domestic products.

It is evident from Z test that the difference in perception between consumers

in the urban and semi-urban markets (3.280) is significant, whereas the

difference between the urban and rural (1.7 12) and semi-urban and rural markets

(0.566) is not significant.

To supplement the viewpoint of consumers, the opinions of the sales forces

have been analyzed in the study. Table 3.21 shows the opinions of the sales

forces about the influence of domestic products.

Table 3.21 inio ions of the Sales Forces about the Influence of Consumers' Preference for Domestic Textile Products.

Field survey

114

The sales force of medium selling outlets (80.5%) record a low rate in very

high degree of influence. Those who represent small selling outlets (3.9%)

indicate a low rate in high degree of influence and they do not believe that the

degree of influence is very low. The sales force of large selling outlets does

not believe that the degree of influence is either low or very low. And those

who belong to medium selling outlets do not have the opinion that the influence

is very low. This displays the difference in the opinions of the sales force.

The result of Z test shows that the difference in opinion between the sales

forces of large and medium selling outlets (2.352) is significant, whereas that

between the large and small selling outlets (1.095) and medium and small

selling outlets (0.041) is not significant.

The communicative property of clothing reveals the ,dress code

applicable to different situations or occasions. The Indian textile products are

designed with the background of oriental culture. The consumers i n Kerala

consider it as suitable for ensuring situational ethnicity. They have a zeal for

wearing handloom clothing on special occasions of cultural or religious

importance. It is evident from the study that the preference for the domestic

products exercises a very high degree of influence on the purchase decision of

consumers. The regional market of Ernakulam as well as the urban market is

different from the other markets by showing a highly significantadifference in

the perception of consumers. The sales forces of large selling outlets also

have a significantly different opinion about the influence of domestic products.

In view of the attitude of consumers towards domestic textile products, it can

be rightly remarked that Kerala is a platform for promoting mass sale of

domestic textile products in general and handloom in particular.

115

Foreign Products

In the global market, India has been considered as a source of handloom clothing

of excellent craftsmanship, from time immemorial. Both cotton and silk

textiles woven by Indian weavers gained a sizeable number of patrons

representing all social and geographical strata including members of royal

families of Western and Middle-East countries. Silk textiles of Banaras and

Kanchipuram, Muslin of Bengal and superfine cotton textiles from the Southern

part of the peninsula can be pointed out as the focal points of European traders

who initiated several expeditions to India. 'India had much to give to Europe in

the practical form of textiles and other oriental products' (Spear, P, 1978).

In yesteryears, a drastic change characterizedby a passion for foreign products

has been noticed in respect of the consumption pattern of the Indian consumers.

The rationale behind the phenomenon can be attributed to the perception of

consumers about the foreign products as quality products. 'Domestic products

completely failed to meet the public trust in quality goods' ( Mita1,R and Kumar,

The consumers may have a tendency to pick and use foreign products on an

experimental basis. This attitude of consumers is the result of their perception

about the quality of products made in foreign countries. 'Many customers

believe that certain products are better from some countries than from others'

(Hullhand, J, 1999). Often consumers accept foreign products based on their

features. In the real sense, foreign textile products have an advantage over

domestic products because of their attractive design, colour and prints.

'Consumers tend to evaluate foreign products more objectively by their

characteristics' ( Schiffman,G.L and Kanuk,L .L, 200 1 ).

116

It is an admissible fact that foreign products are available at a lower price than

home-made products. 'A foreign product for sale in the home country can be

much cheaper, especially with respect to research and development'

(Hagerty,B, 1990).The consumers who are 'price sensitive' in character may

prefer foreign products to domestic products.

In the textile market of Kerala, foreign products have caused an impact on the

consumers' choice. Many textile items made in foreign countries have appeared

in the textile market with distinctive features. Consumers may evaluate these

features based on several norms including the price factor. Foreign textile

manufacturers have launched many new types of fabrics. Clothing with wrinkle

- free filaments, stone wash fabrics, and superfine crepes (light ciinkled fabric)

are some of the items, which deserve special reference. Because of the speciality

and novelty of the texture, consumers may have a passion for these items of

clothing or garments.

With the emergence and popularity of garments, many international brands have

attained a strong footing on the textile market of Kerala. Most of these brands

are highly competitive in terms of texture, colour, design, stylelfashion,

accessories, finishing, etc. The only handicap that can be attributed to the

international brands of ready made garments is their price. :~ur thermore,

foreign textiles are characterised by fascinating colours. Many cloth

manufacturers abroad have already inducted fluorescent colours to generate

sustainable attention among prospective buyers in respect of the target products.

Focus has been given in the present study to assessing how far the

preference for foreign textile products influences the purchase decisions of

117

consumers. Table 3.22 depicts the perceptions of consumers in the regional

markets.

Table 3.22 Perceptions of Consumers in the Regional Markets about the Influence of their Preference for Foreign Textile Products

Field survey

Low

Very Low

Tot a1

Thiruvananthapuram(72%) and Kozhikode(62.3%) show a high rate and

Ernakulam (22.79L)records a low rate in medium degree of influence. Ernakularn

appears with a further difference by indicating a high rate both in low (27.7%)

and in very low (47.7%) degrees of influence. Thiruvananthapuram (6.7%)

reveals another difference with a low rate in very low degree of influence. This

indicates the difference in the perceptions of consumers in the regional markets

about the influence of their preference for foreign textile products.

It is evident from Z test that the difference in the perception between consumers

in Thiruvananthapuram and Ernakulam (14,868). Thiruvananthapuram and

Kozhikode (2.503) and Emakulam and Kozhikode (10.192) is significant.

17,3

6.7

100.0

Results of Z test

27.7

47.7

100.0

Z test

TVM and EKM TVM and KKD

EKM and KKD

7.6

22.7

100.0

Calculated Value

14.868

2.503

10.192

17.5

25.7

100.0

Table Value

1.964

1.964

1.964

5% level of Significance

Significant

Significant

Significant ..--,-

118

In order to derive a comprehensive picture, the perceptions of consumers in

the urban, semi-urban, rural markets have been analysed in the study. Table 3.23

shows the perceptions of consumers in the urban, semi-urban and rural markets.

Table 3.23 Perceptions of Consumers in the Urban, Semi-urban and Rural Markets about the Influence of Foreign Textile Products.

Field survey

Degree of influence

Very High

High

Medium

Low

Very Low

Total

The urban market (62.4%)show s a high rate and semi-urban market (37.7 %)

shows a low rate in medium degree of influence. The semi-urban (45.7%) further

shows a high rate, while urban (15.6%) records a low rate in very low degree of

influence. The rural market gives a different picture with a high rate (27.3%)

in low degree and a low rate (16%) in very low degree of influence. This

demonstrates the difference in the perceptions of consumers in the urban,

semi -urban and rural markets about the influence of their preference for foreign

textile products.

Total N/, % to total

1.1

3.3

50.5

19.3

25.8

100.0

Urban NI,,, % to total

2.0

3.6

62.4

16.4

15.6

100.0

Results of Z test

Semi-urban Nlm % to total

0.7

1.7

37.7

14.2

45.7

100.0

5% level of Significance Z test

' Rural NI,, % to total

0.7

4.7

51.3

27.3

16.0

100.0

Calculated Value Table Value

119

Z test states that the difference in perception between consumers in the urban

and semi-urban markets(9.001)and semi-urban and rural markets (5.568)and

urban and rural markets (2.676) is significant.

To substantiate the viewpoints of consumers, the opinions of the sales forces

have been analysed in the study. Table 3.24 reveals the opinions of the saies forces

about the influence of consumers' preference for foreign textile products.

Table 3.24 Opinions of the Sales Forces about the Influence of Foreign Textile Products.

- 1 Degree of I Large Outlets l ~ e d i u m ~ u t l e t s ~ Small Outlets I Total

/ / Medium 1 63.4 1 38.1 1 50.0 1 50.5

influence Very High

1 Very Low 1 11.5 1 47.8 1 11.5 1 23.6

11 Total 1 . 100.0 1 100.0 1 100.0 1 100.0

N/,,, % to total 3.5

~esul tsof z tist

Z test 1 calculated Value ( Table Value ( 5% level of Significance

Field survey

N/, ,, % to total

0.0

The sales forces of the medium selling outlets (38.1 %) and large selling outlets

(63.4%) exhibit high rate in medium degree of influence. Those who belong to

small selling outlets indicate a high rate in low degree (30.8%) and a low rate

(1 1.5%) in very low degree of influence. They have no opinion that the degree of

influence is very high. Those who belong to medium selling outlets (47.8%)

reveal a high rate in very low degree of influence. And they do not believe that,

N/, % to total 0.0

NI,,, % to total 1.2

120

the degree of influence is very high. This conveys the difference in the opinions

of the sales forces about the influence of consumers' preference for foreign

textile products.

Z test brings out that the difference in opinion between the sales forces of

large and medium selling outlets (7.364) and medium and small selling outlets

(3.328) is significant, while that between large and small selling outlets (0.987)

is not significant.

The foreign textile products have a restriction in the Kerala market. The scenario

will change with the abolition of quota restriction. It highlights the fact that

many textile-manufacturing countries will launch their products in the

textile market. It is explicit from the study that the consumers' preference for

foreign textile products exercises only a medium degree of influence on their

purchase decision. The urban market and the regional market of Emakulam dis-

play a distinct picture with highly significant difference in the perceptions of

consumers. The sales force of large selling outlets also exhibits a significantly

different opinion about the influence of consumers' preference for foreign

textile products. Thus, it can be pointed out that if the domestic textile products

are periodically innovated in tune with the expectation of consumers, the

anticipated competition of foreign textile products can be restricted to a

considerable extent.

Price

'To be or not to be', with regard to purchasing a product or consuming a service

can be largely influenced by the price factor. 'The wider meaning of price is the

121

terms on which a commodity is available' (Donald ,S. W and Mary, 1978). Price

is viewed as the quantum of purchasing power that a prospective buyer has to

part with at every unit of purchase or consumption, which is always expressed

in monetary terms. It establishes a relationship with the willingness of

prospective buyers to spare their purchasing power; which can be interpreted

as spending behaviour. 'Reliance on individual decisions guided by price implies

certain corollaries or pre-conditions that pervaded the entire social and political

structure of the society' (Dorfman, R, 1979). Owing to the integration between

spending behaviour and price, the perception about price is influenced by

economic, social and cultural factors.

The dichotomic classification of perception about price is the seller's view

pointand the buyer's viewpoint. Seller's view price as the reward for providing

consumers with a product or service. They are alert in fixing the price at a

monetary scale, which is sufficient to recoup the cost of production and to

yield the expected rate of profit.

In the present era of mass customization, marketers fix price for a product or

a service only after evaluating the extent of competition prevailing in the market.

Price can be considered as the only marketing input that can be made adaptable

to meet the competition. 'The determination of price and output levels is very

much influenced by the nature of the competitive structure of a market' (Barla,

C.S, 1983). Considering the trend of consumers to prefer the seller who offers

the product or service at the lowest price, without affecting the quality can

substantiate the validity of this concept.

122

'From the consumers' viewpoint, the price of the product is the amount paid or

to be paid for the benefit offered by the bundle of attributes represented by the

product and its supporting service' (Lovelook, H, 1 993).Generally, consumers have

different perceptions about price, which depend on the nature of the product

bought, the timing of purchase, and the need to be satisfied.

The consumer keeps an expectation in his mind about a product and perceives

price as the amount paid not only for the physical benefit derived from the

product but also for gaining an expected level of satisfaction. 'Price must be

equal to the total amount of benefit; the price one pays for a product or service

represents a sacrifice of purchasing power' (Sherlekar, S. A, 1996). Buyer price

is a package of expectations and satisfactions.

As a practice,consumers tend to attach a value to a product or service. 'Value

simply denotes worth and price which is merely the value of goods is expressed

in terms of money -price' (Fergeuson, C.E and Jevanietta, M.K, 1968). If the

perceived value of the product is greater than the purchasing power sacrificed, it

is an acceptable product. 'Price often entails psychologioal and behavioural

responses" ( Fannin, R, 1989). 'This is related to the perceived quality and

value of the product or service, thereby influencing how it can be positioned in

the market place' (Majato, S, 1995). And it is very relevant if the product

symbolizes the status of the consumer.

Relying on price for judging the quality of products can be termed price -

quality association. A high price represents a high quality while a low price

indicates a low quality. 'It is essential that price reflects both quality and the

123

image the company seeks for its offers' (Dodds,B,W,1991). Now-a-days,

consumers have a passion for branded products. The brands are rated and

positioned with the parameter of price. And certain brands are perceived as the

premium brands, and others as ordinary brands.

In the textile market of Kerala, the type of textiles purchased by the consumers

influences their perception .about price. The textiles that consumers usually

purchase can be broadly divided into 'casual wears' and 'special wears'. Casual

wears represent clothing bought for complying with the routine requirements.

And special wears or occasional wears are those types of clothing meant for

auspicious occasions. As the former type is to be maintained in large number,

consumers prefer low-priced clothing with good quality. Price seems to be a

crucial factor while purchasing casual wears. In contrast to this, consumers

attach importance to uniqueness in special wears and often overlook the price

factor.

The attitude towards price can be influenced by the occupational status. As a

general trend, consumers having high occupational status prefer costly apparels.

Affordability is the reason for such an attitude. But one cannot ignore

competency of costly clothing to convey the occupational status of the wearer.

Consumers are 'price sensitive' in character, They have the inclination to buy

costly clothing, while it is offered at a discount. This has a special relevance in

buying the premium brands of readymade garments. Targeting the price-sensitive

consumers, the textile retailers organize discount sale campaigns.

Having realized the relevance of price, its influence on the purchase decisions

of consumers has been analysed in the study by evaluating their perceptions

124

Table 3.25 shows the perceptions of consumers in the regional markets.

Table 3.25 Perceptions of Consumers in the Regional Markets about the Influence of Price

Thiruvanarlthapuram (85%) and Kozhikode(92.6%) account fol a high rate

whereas Ernakulam (56%) exhibits a low rate i n very high degree of influence.

Emakulam (1: 7.'7%) appear:; to be further different with a high ratc in medium

degree of influehce. As against this, Thiruvananthapuram (2.3%) and Kozhikode

(241) show a low rate in medium degree of influence. Thiruvananthapuram and

Kozhikode have no respontlents in the category of those wl.1,) perceive the

degrec of influence as low. t1Ilo rcspondeuts in all the regioual inirrkets have the

opinion that price exercises only a very low degree of infl~tence. 'I'his ey1inc:es

that there is difference in the perceptions of the consun1i:rs in the regional

markets about the influence OF price.

Degree of influence

Very High

High

Medium

Low

Very Low

Tot a1

Z test reveal:{ that the difference in perception between 4 :onsunlers in

- TVM

NI,, % to total 85.0

12.7

2.3

0.0

0.0

100.0

Results of Z test

Z test

TVM and EKM

TVM and KKD

EKM and KKD -

Total N/,,, 70 to total

77 .O

11.0

10.7

EKM NI-, % to total

56.0

15.0

27.7

1 .!! .:; ';:; 0.0 - 100.0 100.0 1 00.0

KKD NI1,, % to total

92.6

5.4

2 .O

55'0 level of Significance

Sign 'icant

'iigr-11 I icant -- -- .'.iign I 1 icxnt - . - - -- . . , . l - .

Calcplated Value

9.80.4

2.47 1

1 I .558 ." .- .-,

Fdble Value

1 -964

1.964

., -. 1.964

125

Thiruvan;lnthapuram and Ema kulam (9.804), Ernakul am and Kozl.likode ( 1 1.55 8)

and Thiruvananthapuram and Kozhikode (2.471) is significant.

The viewpoints of consumers in urban, semi urban and rural ma]-kets have been

assessed in the study. 'Table 3.26 shows the perceptions of consumers in the

urban, semi-urban and ri~ral ~narkets.

Table 3.26 Perceptions of Conslimers in the Urban, Semi -url)an and Rural Markets about the Influence of Price

Calculated Value Table Value 5% level of Significance

P

Notsignificant

Field S~rrvey

The urban rniirket (88.2 %) shows a high rate while the semi-urban (66.7 % )

and rural (68.7 9%) markets indicate a low rate in very high degree of influence.

The semi-urban market shows another difference with a high rate in high degree

of influence. Both the semi-urban (1 9 %) and rural (20 %) n~arkets account

for a high rate in medium degree of influence. A distinct feature can be observed

that the urban consumers do not believe that the influence of price is either low

or very low. There fore, there exists a difference in the perception of urban,

semi -urban and rural consumers about the influence of price.

The result of Z test indicates that the difference in the perception between

consumers in the urban and semi -urban (7.947), and urban and rural (5.612)

markets is significant, whereas the difference between the semi urban and rural

consumers (0.1 15) is not significant.

To substantiate the perception of consumers, the opinions of the sales forces

have been evaluated in the study. Table 3.27 shows the opinions of the sales

forces about the influence of price.

Table 3.27 The Opinions of Sales forces about the Influence of Price

Field Survey

Very Low

Total

The sales force of small sclling outlets indicate low rate i n very high

degree(76.9%) and in high degree (15.4% )of influence. Those who represent

medium selling outlets (2.7 %)record a low rate, and those who represent small

selling outlets (7.7 %) exhibit a high rate in medium degree of influence. This

0.0

100.0

Results of Z test

0.0

100.0

5% !eve1 of Significance

Not Significant

Not Significant

Not Significant

Z lest

Large and Medium Outlets

Large and Small Outlets

Medium and small Outlets

0.0

100.0

0.0

100.0

Calculated Value

1,669

b 0,746

' 1.401

Table Value

1.964

1.964

1.964 P

127

highlights that there is difference in the opinions of the sales force about the

influence of price.

Z test reveals that the difference in opinion of the sales forces between

large and medium selling outlets (1.669), large and small selling outlets (0.746),

and medium and small selling outlets (1.401) is not significant.

Price is the basic factor for assessing the worthiness of a product'. Consumers'

perceptio~~ of price is reflected through their preference for branded products.

In the textile market, costly dress is accepted as the conveyor of the socio -

economic status of the wearer. The study reveals that the price of textiles

exercises a very high degree of influence on the purchase decisions of the

consumers. The regional, urban, semi-urban and rural markets exhibit

significantly different perceptions of consumers. On the contrary, the sales

forces do not hold 'any significantly different opinion about the influence of

price. Thus, it can be stated that, as with any other consumer product, price is

the decisive factor of the marketability of textiles.

Conclusion and Testing of Hypothesis /

From the foregoing discussions, it is explicit that consumers develop

specification for their target products of textile industry. In the textile

market of Kerala, several parameters such as brand, quality, colour, fabric,

fashion, preference for readymade garments, domestic as well as foreign

textile products and price are considered by the consumers to develop

product specification. The study embosses that among such 'parameters',

brand, quality, colour, fashion, price and preference for domestic products

128

are capable of penetrating the decision-making process of the consumers.

Preference for readymade garments has o n l y a moderate level of

applicability in respect of purchase decision while preference for

foreign textiles has seldom been found. The Exponential Trend of the

influential specifications reveal that the degree of influence is different in

different market segments; which is evident from Figures 3.1, 3.2, 3.3, 3.4,

3.5 and 3:6.

Table 3.28 Exponential Trend Value - Product Specification - Northern Region

BRAND Y1 15.70U2 25.840Ul 42.51756 69.958821 115.1111 QUALITY Y2 36.78967 162.194 715.1122 3 1 5 2 . W m I

COLOUR Y3 40-25813 162.1124 652.7968 2623 -

FABRICS Y4 27.25745 119.5004 523.9051 22R.uj FASHION YS 2.961381 8.520953 245176 70..%71 fi RMG Y6 17.5087 27.46533 43.08103 67.57521 M D. PDT Y7 37.6305 157.7513 661.3253 2 7 7 2 . 3 7 9 11622. F. PDT Y8 82.76483 51.33397 31.83972 19.74805 12.24846 PRICE Y9 35.53084 144.3795 586.6863 2383.998 9687.38

klg 3.1 E ~ p n e n M Trend <b--e of Product Spe~.LBmtlolh - Northern Re*

p 1mW) $ 14UCn)

1 2 0 0 0 1 I,WW * 8MW1 3 600(1

4000 5 20m0 w 0

1 2 Lt Deglw of lnnuence

-+- Yl Y8 *Y9

Table 3.29 Exponential Trend Value - Product Specification - Central Region

BRAND Y l 11.6377454 21.7739345 40.73845 76.220461 l42.60U Q U m Y2 S.OJM8905 14.9994845 4.63457 132.820! co LOUR y 3 1o.nn1e2 37.7698813 08.2 443 5 0 5 . 9 ~ FABRlCS Y4 3.99897794 10.6661701 28.44922 75.88101 zuz.xfvs FASHION Y5 2J.9644956 35.324376 J9.98192 78.722* 100.0697 RMG Y6 11.9836836 22.074895 40.66288 74.9BXW 137.9685 D. PDT Y7 6.91)345153 23.1433488 77.58921 266.116. F.PDT Y8 232.882152 73.2 115349 23.0156 7.2360' PRICE Y9 8.3312775 29.5762525 181.9823 372.618'

Fig 3.2 Exponentid T m d Cbn r of PI-duct Speiarution - C'rnhl Region

q 2.. -. - - - -- -- - -- -

> 1500 - e -7

' 1 4

31 I 1 I 2 3 1 5

D e p e o f ~ u e n e e

--tYl+1'2 -Y4 -+YS +\'6 *Y7

Table 3.30 Exponentjal Trend Value -Product Specitication - Southern Region

BRAM) Y l 7.175483 15.71729 34. 42833 75.41383 1~.1y(#l\ QUALITY Y2 32.37562 136.1696 575.2454 2421772 1@220.1 COLOUR Y3 0.525245 2.165817 8.93069 36.82W 151.84. FABRICS Y4 37.108 167.9729 760.3378 3441.764 - FASHlON Y5 6.281033 21.38749 72.82628 247.9803 84- RMG Y6 6.0-15249 14.48069 32.79698 76.391119 17' D .PDT Y7 3ft.49382 127.4147 532.3873 2224.51! F.PDT Y8 74.80729 40.M16 22.4157 9 11.4533' PRICE Y9 8.332512 29.57643 104.3823 372.63'.

Fig 3.3 Expo%bel~tisd TI^ Ckrvc of P d u a SlwcBcntlon - Southen1 R c g h

18(MM) + 1mo1 14000 I 1"

b I 0 0

3 5 600U 4O(MI

B 2 O(t0 0

I 2 3 4 5

Degree of Influence

-+Y1 +T2 -Y3 -1'4 +\'s +Y6 +r'7 +T9

Table 3.31 Exponential Trend Value - Product Specification - Rural

Table 3.32 Exponential Trend Value -Product Specification - Semi-urban

Fig J.5 E ' i p o ~ ~ a ~ t I d Trend C b e uf Yrmluct S~~ - Sunri-urbrun

-

4000 -- C

1 3 4 5

I k p of bfluc~lrc

-+-TI +Y2 +Y3 Y4 -++ Y5 +Y6 \"I - - -

vn +Y9

Table 3.33 Exponential Trend Value - Product Specification - Urban

Fiz 3.6 Expow~rrl;nl Trend c w e 04 Product RpedlcMion - l r r h

.°, 251)tIU

g 2 m

1 1wuJ

3 lurnn, MMo

W (I

3

Decree of lntlumce

132

In the Northern region of the state, the consumers attach a pre- eminence on

colour (Y 3) while purchasing textiles. Price (Y9), preference for domestic

textiles (Y7) and quality (Y2) are the other specifications of this region, which

occupy the second, third and fourth positions respectively (Fig.3.1). The

consumers in the Central region give prime importance for the nature of fabric

(Y4). Price (Y9), preference for domestic textiles (Y7) and quality (Y2) have

been ranked as the second, third and fourth order of ascendancy in terms of

prioritizing specifications (Fig. 3.2). In the Southern region also the consumers

assign a unique importance on the nature of fabric (Y4) when they choose

textiles. Quality (Y2) preference for domestic textiles (Y 7) and price (Y 9) are

the second, third and fourth priorities respectively (Fig. 3.3).

In the rural market, the consumers give the highest priority for domestic

textiles (Y7) among the influential factors. Quality (Y2), colour (Y3 ) and price \

(Y9) occupy the subsequent positions being ranked as second, third and

fourth respectively (Fig. 3.4). The consumers in the semi-urban market

attribute the highest significance to domestic textile (Y7) while formulating

specifications relating to textile products. Colour (Y 3), quality (Y2) and price

(Y9) are the subsequent order of preferences respectively (Fig. 3.5). Nature of

fabrics (Y4) is the highest priority of the consumers in the urban market. Their

subsequent priorities are domestic textiles (Y7), quality (Y2) and fashion (Y5)

in the respective order of second, third and fourth positions (Fig. 3.6). The

study educes that consumers in the textile market of Kerala assign different

specifications to their target products.

Hence, the Hypothesis (H I) drawn for the study "There are significant

variations in the product specification among the consumers in the Northern,

Central and Southern parts of the state" is accepted.