Cat Costume

Size: These are generic instructions that can be used to make ears and tail for any size person, however, I don't recommend making this costume for children under 3 years of age.

Materials: Amounts will vary depending on the size you make. Below are the amounts I used to make the ears and tail for my 6 year old daughter in the picture.

Ears: Approximately 45m (50 yards) of black yarn, DK or worsted weight. 1 pair 6mm knitting needles Handful of polyester toy filling

Tail: Scraps (approximately 15gms each) of white, orange, and black yarn, DK or worsted weight. 1 set 5mm dpns 1 pr 6mm knitting needles

Method

Ears Yarn is used double throughout

Band (make 1): Using 6mm needles and black, cast on 10sts and knit every row until work measures 30cm/12 inches. Cast off.

Ears (Make 4): Cast on 14 sts and knit 6 rows garter st. Decrease 1 st at each end of every alternate rows until 2sts remain, K2tog, fasten off.

Making Up: Sew ear pieces together, leaving bottom opening for stuffing. Stuff lightly, then sew bottom opening closed. Sew a line down the middle of each as shown in the diagram below. This will give the ears added definition.

Fold the band in half and mark the middle with a piece of coloured thread. Sew your ears approximately 2cm (4/5 inch) either side of the centre line. Sew ribbon or a twisted cord to the ends of the band so that it can be tied on.

Tail: This tail is simply two knitted pieces sewn together in a "T" shape. One is tied around the waist and the other hangs down as the tail.

First you will need to determine the measurements of your pieces. Measure the recipient around the waist and add 30cm/ 12 inches. This is the measurement of the piece that ties around the waist.

Next, measure from the waist to the floor and subtract 30cm/ 12 inches. This is the measurement for the tail piece.

Waist Piece: Using 6mm needles and yarn double cast on 12 sts and knit every row until work measures the same as your waist measurement. Cast off.

Tail Piece: Using yarn singly 5mm dpns cast on 16sts and knit in the round, working random stripes, until it measures the same as your tail measurement. Break yarn, thread through sts, pull tight, and fasten off.

Making Up: Fold your waist piece in half and sew the cast on end of the tail piece to this point. Sew in all loose ends neatly.

Teddy Bear

MATERIALSBERROCO PLUSH (50 grs), 1 ball #1947 Bubblegum, #1023 Shocking Pink or #1901 Cream (1 ball for each bear).Straight knitting needles, size 8 OR SIZE TO OBTAIN GAUGE.Small amount of polyester fill for stuffing.1/2 yd ribbon for neck bow.

GAUGE7 sts = 2”; 11 sts = 2” in Reverse St st.TO SAVE TIME, TAKE TIME TO CHECK GAUGE.

FRONTLegs: With straight needles, cast on 2 sts. With 2nd end of ball, cast on 2 sts. Note: Both legs are worked at once. Working in Reverse St st, inc 1 st at each end of the next 3 rows – 8 sts. Work 15 rows even, end on WS.Join Legs: Next Row (RS): Purl 8 with 1st end, cut 2nd end and p the last 8 sts with 1st end – 16 sts. Work even in Reverse St st for 5 rows, end on WS. Dec 1 st at each end of next row, then every other RS row once more – 12 sts. Work even for 3 rows, end on WS.Shape Arms: Cast on 6 sts at beg of the next 2 rows – 24 sts. Inc 1 st at each end of next 2 RS rows – 28 sts. Work 3 rows even. Dec 1 st at each end of next 2 RS rows, end on WS – 24 sts. Bind off 8 sts at beg of the next 2 rows – 8 sts.Shape Head: Inc 1 st at each end of the next 5 rows – 18 sts. Work even for 10 rows. Dec 1 st at each end of the next 5 rows, end on WS. Bind off remaining 8 sts. Place markers at each end of the last group of sts bound off at top of head. Place 2nd set of markers on each side of head 1” from first set of markersLeft Ear: With RS facing, using straight needles, pick up 8 sts between left set of markers. Beg with a k row, work even in Reverse St st for 4 rows.Next Row (WS): K2 tog, k4, k2 tog – 6 sts. Bind off all sts.Work right ear to correspond to left ear.

BACKWork same as for Front.

FINISHINGHold wrong sides of pieces tog. Beg at side edge of bear, sew pieces tog using an overcast st. Keep sts close together so that no stuffing will poke out. Note: It is easier to stuff the

head, arms and legs as you go along, leaving the body for last. When bear is entirely stuffed, fasten off securely. Tie bow at neck if desired. Caution: Remove ribbon before giving to a baby to prevent choking hazard.

  Every effort has been made to ensure that directions contained in this website are accurate and complete, however, we cannot be responsible for variance of individual knitters, human or typographical errors.  

Basic Baby Socks

 Materials: Yarn: 3 ply baby or sock yarn Needles: set of 4 or 5 double pointed size 1 (2.50 mm)

Gauge: 8 sts & 10 rows = 1"

Pattern: Cast on 36 sts and join in round Work 8 rounds K1, P1 rib Knit 20 rounds

Heel flap: K18, turn, P18, turn Work another 10 rows in stockinette

Turn heel: Turn Heel: K11, SKPO, turn P6, P2tog, turn K6, SKPO, turn Repeat rows 2 and 3 until you work across all heel sts and have 7 left. Pick up 9 st along edge of heel flap

K 18 across instep, pick up 10 along other edge of heel flap then K the 7 heel sts. = 44 sts.

K 1 round Next round: K6, K2tog, K20, K2tog tbl, K14 K 1 round Next round: K5, K2tog, K20, K2tog tbl, K13 K 1 round Next round: K4, K2tog, K20, K2tog tbl, K12 K 1 round Next round: K3, K2tog, K20, K2tog tbl, K11 --> 36 sts K 8 rounds

Toe: K2tog, K7, repeat around --> 32 sts K 1 round K2tog, K6, repeat around --> 28 sts K 1 round Continue decreasing in this manner until 8 sts remain. Cut yarn and thread through stitches. Pull up tight and fasten off.

Tote Tapper Bag

Things you will need:

Ultrasuede soft fabric, 46 inches wide Sewing machine or needle and thread Craft knife and cutting mat

Directions: Trace the tote template into he fabric Cut it out using scissors Fold to form the bag Sew along edges to create a pocket. Cut a vertical slit in top flap for buttonhole. Note: Ultrasuede

fabric is easy to clean and doesn't fray.  Position pocket inside top edge of tote Stitch across back of pocket, joining it to tote. Fold pocket flap over top of bag to opposite side; mark spot

where buttonhole meets fabric Sew button to bag.

Notebook cover

Things you will need:

Notebook or journal About 1/2 yard of fabric Embellishments (optional)

Directions:

This is probably the hardest part of this whole project. It’s a little tricky to figure out how big to cut your fabric.

Measure your notebook. Cut your fabric that it is 2 1/2-3″ bigger than the vertical measurement of your notebook and about 1/2 to 1 inch bigger than the measurement from the front cover to the back.

Make sure to measure all the way from the edge of the front cover, around the spine and to the back cover.

To help you out, let me tell you that for a composition notebook your fabric should be 13″ by 15.5.”

Then cut 2 pieces that will be for the inside flaps. They need to be the same height as your other piece (so in my case 13″) and then, depending on the size of your notebook, make them several inches wide-basically however far into the inner cover you want them to go.

You can see mine here. Those are about 4 1/2 inches finished but allow for about 1 inch to hem the edge, so I cut them 5 1/2 inches wide.

Take your big piece of fabric and hem the top and the bottom. To do this fold the fabric over about 1/2 inch so that wrong sides are touching. Iron it in place

Then fold it over again about 1/2 inch and press in place again. Do this for the both the top and the bottom of your large piece

Sew a straight line along both of those hems

Now take your two side pieces and do the same with the tops and bottoms of them, making sure that you make them the exact same height as your first piece.

Then hem one edge of each. Make sure that you hem the left side of one and the right side of the other.

Lay them on your large piece on each end so that right sides are together and the side hems are towards the middle

Sew a straight line down the raw edge of both sides (that’s the edge that you see at the bottom of this picture). Iron that seam nice and flat and then fold it inward so that wrong sides are together (this is creating the flaps) and sew from the first arrow to the second at both the top and the bottom of each flap

And we’re done!

LEATHER OWL BAG

Things you’ll need:

Paper Thread Wood Fusible interfacing Leather belt Multi-colored leather scraps Leather Magnetic clasp

Instructions

1. First of all you will need your paper to draw half of your owl shape. Cut it out then use this to flip over and draw your full owl shape (this makes sure both sides are even!) This is the pattern for the front of the bag.

2. Using the pattern for the front of the bag, trace around then draw an half of the owl's face (this is what will be the flap to close the bag).

3. Now you'll need to decide on the depth of the bag as you'll need to add this amount to the top of the owl shape.

4. Fold the added-on bit in half horizontally, and trace the outline of the owl's face from underneath. Cut this out.

5. Now fold the owl in half vertically and trace the shape of the Owls face on to the other half.6. Now cut around the Owl's body too.7. Use these patterns to transfer on to the reverse side of your leather and then cut them out. 8. Now using your paper, cut out feather shaped to use as a stencil. I made 2 different sizes.9. Using the stencils, cut out as many feathers as you wish in different colors start to sew them in to place

(making sure you've changed the needle to the leather one).10. At this point i measured around the piece with string to get the measurement for the strip that will form the

depth of the bag. Cut out this length and for the width use the depth you decided on for the bag. Mine was 79cm x 3cm.

11. Now, with right sides together, sew the strip to the front of your bag. Do the same for the back.12. Turn it the right way and check that it's sewn all around the edges.13. Now I used a belt as a strap, but use what you like. Sew it to the side of your bag.14. I noticed my bag wasn't holding its shape very well, so I ironed on interfacing inside and used a piece of

wood on the back to hold the shape better.

THE LEATHER STRAP WALLET

Things you’ll need: Leather, Scissors, White poster board, Pencil, Plastic ruler, Metal nub, Drafting tableInstructions:

1. Start with a sketch of the design in a notebook.2. Sketch and create a life size template using found objects (in this case my credit card) for reference as to

actual scale. I draw it out on thin white poster board because it’s easy to mark, cut, and cheaper than leather if you screw it up and need to start over. At this point it is pretty important to get your lines straight by using a 90 degree ruler and your best judgment, but don’t worry if it isn’t perfect. If curves are involved I bought a set of ‘French Curves’ which are basically a few plastic ruler-like forms shaped into multiple curves that you can use unless of course… you happen to be Picasso.

3. After drawing out the template, I use a rotary cutter and a ruler to make the initial straight cuts. This works the best compared to craft razors or scissors, you will end up with nice clean lines. Above I am cutting out the main outer template and the interior divider that will go inside the wallet to separate the cards and cash.

4. Once the template has been set, I bust out the vegetable tanned pig skin. Vegetable tanning is a natural process of preparing and preserving leather by use of tree bark tannins. In the photo above I am tracing out the template onto the leather using a piece of tailor’s chalk. I like the chalk since it easily rubs off down the line, that way I don’t have to worry about pencil or pen markings.

5. The rotary cutter is used to cut out the exterior and interior pieces.6. Next I need to figure out how long to make the strap. Since this is a piece that is a bit 3D in shape, the best

way to determine the length is to use a piece of string wrapped along the approximate location of the end strap. I would add on another inch or two just in case, since it is always easier to cut leather off, then to try and put it back on.

7. I have taken the leather out to the shop for some punching and staining. A hole needs to be punched for the metal nub that the strap attaches to. I use an interchangeable leather hole punch to get the job done. The pig skin is placed on top of another thick piece of old leather to protect the hole puncher as it pierces through.

8. Before the leather can be stained, it is a good idea to moisten it first, and possibly clean with Saddle Soap. Saddle Soap is used to remove dirt and grease left by your oily little fingers…which can cause uneven stains. In our case I chose not to soap it up since I wanted a more uneven look anyways.

9. Even though 34 degrees is enough to make me sweat…it sure ain’t enough to help the oil dry and soak into the leather. I decided to lay the pieces out in the sun for a bit until no oil came off to the touch. It is important to make sure the oil isn’t standing on your leather when you go to the next step of waxing. I have had problems before if you hurry this step.

10. A nice thin coat of beeswax finish is rubbed into the leather. Once dry give it a slight buff to remove excess wax and create a subtle shine. Back to the draft table the leather is ready to be marked by an Overstitch wheel, for placement of the stitching on the back of the wallet – where the strap attaches. The Overstitch wheel creates uniform markings in the leather to space out your stitch length. On top of a piece of cardboard to protect the awl, I punch diamond shaped holes into the leather.

11. The strap is ready for the first round of stitching. I like to use two needles attached to one arm’s length of waxed thread. Above and to the right is a stitching pony I built with scrap wood and a few dollars’ worth of hardware. The stitching pony helps free up your hands when hand stitching and is super easy to operate.

12. After you have stitched on the strap, end the stitch by going over the first two stitches again and then cut the excess thread off. Now the main compartment and interior divider is ready for placement. When possible I like to glue along the stitch line with simple all-purpose white PVA glue, which dries clear. This helps keep your leather in place while you punch holes and stitch through multiple layers.

13. In the final steps I then attach the metal nub where the strap will fix onto. I then stitch a rectangle into the strap where the hole will be punched to attach to the metal nub – making sure to fold the end under to give the user a bit more to grab onto.

Leather Stool

Things you will need:

carpet or upholstery tacks strap material, leather or upholstery webbing 2 x 2 oak for legs 1 x 2 oak for stringers pocket screws Danish oil

pocket-screw guide drill saw square sandpaper rags to apply finish tack hammer

Directions: Measure your leg height and mark the boards with a square. Perfectly

square cuts will ensure you don’t create a wobbly bench. I cut mine at 15″. Next cut all your stringer boards. To make a rectangular bench, I cut four boards 18″ in length and four boards at 12″.

Drill all pocket-screw guide holes. You can find an inexpensive pocket guide at most hardware stores. I use a Kreg model. Clamp it to the board and drill all your holes.

After all boards are cut and drilled, sand them to a smooth finish. It’s much easier to sand now than after it’s assembled. Sanding to at least a 220 grit will give you a furniture-grade surface.

Now it’s time to assemble. I cut a couple 3/8″ pieces of scrap board to help position the stringers in the center of the leg pieces before attaching. I also used some scraps to uniformly space the lower stringers from the top. Now a complete side can be positioned on your work surface before driving all the screws. Assemble both complete ends, and then attach the two with your remaining stringer boards.

We had a bunch of short leather 1 1/2-inch straps from a previous project, so it was the perfect choice for the woven top. Otherwise, you can use seat-belt webbing or upholstery straps. Cut your straps long enough to wrap completely around your boards. Using a tack hammer, attach all the long pieces first and then weave the remaining ones in and attach one by one. Because leather is such thick material, it’s necessary to have gaps between them so they can be woven. The thinner your strap material, the closer they can be woven.

DONE! I chose to leave the leather natural and used light, walnut-colored Danish oil, but any number of stains, finishes or waxes can be used to create yours.

Iphone case

Things you will need:

eather topstitching thread scissors stitching awl e6000 glue needle tape Cellphone case pattern

Directions:

Print out cell phone case pattern. Lay onto leather, tape in place. Use stitching awl to poke holes as marked on the pattern.

Cut out pattern. Hand stitch in and out around the leather through the poked holes Then, hand stitch in the same manner to fill in the unstitched areas. Be

sure to overlap about 3 stitches to keep the stitches secure. Fold over the left and right triangle flaps. Sew together, making sure

the 4 poked holes are aligned. Add e6000 glue to the bottom flap, tuck inside, and glue in place Hold for a few seconds to allow the glue to set in.

HOW TO PIN PRESSED-IN STUDSThings you’ll need:

Fabric Chalk Measuring tape Studs Pliers

Directions:

Determine the desired stud pattern. Use the measuring tape and chalk to equidistantly space and mark studs along the pattern.

Place a stud over the chalk marking. Press the stud prongs through the material you're using so the prongs are exposed on the other (back) side.

Use the pliers to bend the prongs inward, toward the center of the stud. Bend all prongs flush to the back side of the material, ensuring attachment.

Repeat the stud-application process for each marking in the pattern.

FIBER CRAFTS

WOOVEN KEY RINGS

Things you’ll need:

3 Yards of Flat Cord 3 Yards of Metallic Cord Key Ring Scissors

Instructions:

1. Cut two 54" pieces of flat cord. Pull them through a key ring to the center of the cord. Cross the cords holding them perpendicular to each other.

2. Fold strand 1 to opposite side leaving a small loop; Fold strand 3 to opposite side leaving a small loop. Hold strands in place with one hand.

3. With your other hand, weave strand 2 over strand 3 and under strand 1. Weave strand 4 over strand 1 and under strand 3; pull tightly. Continue until you have about 4" braid. Tie off securely and trim.

HEMP FRIENSHIP BRACELET

Things you’ll need:

6 Yards of #20 Hemp Misc. Beads Masking Tape

Instructions:

1. Cut hemp into two 3 yard lengths. Fold both pieces 18" from the end. Gather the folded strands together. You now have two 18" strands and two 7½' strands. Tie all together into a knot 4" from the fold. Secure by taping to table top at fold. You could also use a clipboard or slip loop made by fold around a chair leg. Pull both 18" strands taut and tape down ends.

Making the knots:

a. Cross strand 1 over strands 2 & 3 and under strand 4.b. Bring strand 4 under strands 2 & 3, then up through the loop created by strand 1. Tighten.c. Cross strand 1 over strands 2 & 3 and under strand 4.d. Bring strand 4 under strands 2 & 3, then up through the loop created by strand 1. Tighten.

2. Adding Beads: Beads can be added at any point on the bracelet. You can string them on one, two or all four strands. On the bracelet shown above, beads where strung only on strands 2 & 3.

3. Finishing: When you reach the desired length, make a knot to match the other end. Remove tape. Trim ends, leaving enough to tie on wrist. Make a knot on each strand end to keep from fraying, adding a bead if desired.

RIBBED DOG COLLAR

Things you’ll need:

2mm – 3mm Nylon cord 1.25 to 2-inch Buckle 1-inch Metal or Plastic Ring Project board and pins

Instructions:

1. Measure your dog’s neck. Make sure the measuring tape is loose enough to admit two fingers. Multiply the measurement by 8. Cut 8 cords, each of them the length you came up with. Prepare the ends with glue, tape, or wax.

2. For a 2 -part buckle, mount 4 cords to one part, with Lark’s Head knots. If using a single buckle, mount the four cords to the center bar, to either side of the tongue if there is one.

3. Choose the strand furthest to the right to be the holding cord. Direct it towards the left horizontally, and secure it to the board so it’s taut. Attach the other strands to it with Double Half Hitches (DHH), making each knot tight. If you start with the second strand nearest the right edge, and move towards the left, it’s much easier to make the DHH.

4. When the first row is complete, direct the same holding cord the other direction, and make another row of DHH.

5. Repeat step 4 until you have half the length you need, minus one inch.6. Use pliers to pull the ends to the back of the design, through the small openings between the ring

and the last row of DHH. Divide the strands into groups of 2. Make tight Square Knots (no fillers) with each group. Apply glue to these knots, front and back. When dry, cut off any excess cord.

7. Mount the remaining 4 cords to the bottom of the ring, with Lark’s Head knots. Add an extra loop with the right portion of each cord, passing under the ring first to make the loop.

8. Repeat steps 3 through 5, to make the second half of the ribbed Dog collar. Stop when you have made the same number of rows as the first half, unless you are using a single buckle. If so, follow step 10. For a 2-part Buckle.

9. The last few rows will need to be designed differently. Start by omitting 2 strands, from the center of the group. Tie 6 rows of Alternating Square Knots, using 3 strands per knot. The design needs to be flat and narrow to fit through the buckle. Tie a tight Square knot with the cords you

omitted, on the backside of the ribbed dog collar. Apply glue to the knot, and trim off the excess. When you are finished, direct the remaining 6 cords to the back of the Ribbed Dog collar. Trim the ends until they are 2 inches long. Apply glue to them and to the back of the design. Place something heavy on that portion of the Dog Collar while the glue is drying.

FRUIT BAG

Things you’ll need:

*size US #8 (5mm) double pointed needles, set of 5 *size US #10 (6mm) double pointed needles, set of 5 *1 skein of lily sugar’s cream (or similar yarn, roughly 120 yards) Abbreviations: k1, knit 1, yo, yarn over, k2tog, knit two together

Instructions:

Bottom:

Using smaller needles, CO 8 sts. divide sts evenly onto 4 needles (2 sts/needle) k1, yo, k1, repeat each needle (12 sts) knit around plain k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, repeat each needle (20 sts) knit around plain k1, yo, knit across until 1 st remains on needle, yo, k1, repeat each needle (28 sts) knit around plain Repeat rounds 5 & 6 until you have 15 sts on each needles (60 sts total)

Body:

(k2tog, yo) repeat around knit around plain Repeat rounds 1 & 2 until body measures 8"

Cuff:

purl knit Repeat rounds 1 & 2 once more k5, yo, repeat around purl

knit purl

Easy Fingerless Gloves

Things you will need: Old Sweater, Fabric Scissors or Rotary Cutter and Cutting Mat, Sewing Machine or Needle & Thread, Ruler

Directions:

First, you need to decide how long you want your fingerless gloves to be, then cut the sleeves 1″ longer to allow for the hem. I wanted mine to be 9″ long so I cut the sleeves off at 10″ from the cuff. If your sweater is very bulky, you may want to pin the edges before cutting them so keep it from raveling.

Turn your sleeve inside out, fold over about 1″ of the cut edge, pin in place and stitch all the way around. Again, if your sweater is particularly bulky, you may need to stitch twice. (Sorry, my camera had a brain-fart so I don’t have a pic of this step)

Put your hand in the sleeve to figure out where to stitch the seam for the thumb. You may need another person to help you with this. On the inside of the sleeve, sew a ‘V’ between thumb and forefinger. I double stitched to make sure it would hold up. Next, you want to carefully cut out the ‘V’.

Turn right side out and repeat with the second sleeve. The sleeves for this sweater were nice and snug on my arms. If yours are too loose, simply fit it to your arm, pin and sew along the inside.

DIY Felted Dryer Balls

Things you will need: Any kind (sheep, alpaca, etc), appr. 1 1/2 oz per ball, Nylon Hose, Washer & Dryer

Directions:

If you’re using all roving, start wrapping it around itself roughly in a ball shape, until it’s about the size of a tennis ball.

If you’re using something else for the core, wad up that material, tucking in the ends and then begin wrapping the roving around it. In the first photo, I used scraps from an unsuccessful felting project, second photo has old yarn for the core.

Once your balls (go ahead and laugh )are about the size of a tennis ball, put them in the leg of a panty hose, pull it tight and tie a knot between each one.

Put your tied up wool balls in the washing machine and wash with detergent and hot water. You can add clothes if you want, just be aware that if your roving is dyed, it may bleed. Once the wash cycle is done, pop em in the

dryer. As you’ll see in the next pic, two of mine were fairly well embedded in the hose so you may want to untie them and loosen the hose after the wash cycle and BEFORE putting them in the dryer. But, it’s really not a big deal if you don’t.

All that’s left now is to remove the hose. I had to cut off the hose from two of them but the middle one came out just fine. As I said before, it’s really not a problem. Just cut off the hose. The balls should be well felted by now so it won’t hurt anything.

DIY Fishtail Friendship Bracelets

Things you will need:

Three colors of embroidery/friendship thread. Beads

Directions

Cut two pieces of each color at around 3 feet each. So total you should have 6 pieces of string. Keep the like colors together.

Loop all of the string together around your ring finger and tie two knots.

Tape (or clip) the loop to a sturdy surface. Separate the colors. On the left side you should have one group of each color and you should have one group of each color on the right as well. If you separate them like this in the beginning, it will be easier in the next steps.

Take the outside color from the right side (in this case- blue) and cross it over to the left side (on the inside.)

Take the outside group/same color from the left and cross it over to the right side (on the inside.)

Grab the left group in one hand and the right group in the other and pull outward to tighten the design a little. You will only have to do this step in the beginning, eventually it won't need tightening. Repeat steps 4, 5 and 6 over and over again until you get the bracelet as long as it needs to be to go around your wrist. It should go pretty fast.

When the bracelet is long enough, tie two or three knots at the end. String a bead onto the end and then tie another knot to keep the bead

in place Then cut the extra string off and you are done

4th of July Sparkling Pipe Cleaners

Things you will need:

2 red pipe cleaners (aka chenille stems)

2 blue pipe cleaners 4 white pipe cleaners – mine are the shiny sparkly white colored kind

Directions:

Gather your pipe cleaners and group them with the white together and the blue and red together. (I also made a sparkler that was half the size by cutting my white pipe cleaners in half for a tighter look, see above.)

Wrap your blue and red pipe cleaners around the center of your white pipe cleaners.Bend your white pipe cleaners up and then twist your blue and red pipe cleaners together.

Give your white pipe cleaners one little twist, then fan them out. You can bend them at the tops or leave them straight.

Fiber wrapped Mason Jars

Things you’ll need:

Clean Mason Jar Assorted colored fibers Glue Tape Flower designs

Directions

Wash and dry Mason jars. Discard lids. Work on one jar at a time. Place adhesive tape on the jar, covering at

least ¾ of surface. Begin to wrap yarn around the jar, row by row, keeping neat. Tuck in

ends. Wrap jute around the lip of the jar. Repeat wrapping on second jar. Place jars side by side and use jute to wrap around the two. Keep tight

for stability. To customize, insert any floral embellishment.

Woven Shawl

Things you’ll need: 2 pieces of water-soluble stabilizer in desired size of your scarf, Fiber- Yarn, Ribbon, Fabric Strips, etc., Fringe- Simply left the fiber hang over the edge of the stabilizer, Pins, Sewing machine

Instructions:

Place 1 piece of stabilizer on the table. Lay the fibers the length of the scarf. You can use a lot of fibers to

make a thick scarf, or use fewer fibers to make a thinner scarf. You can place the fibers in a very orderly manner, or you can just let them wander and twist.

After all the fibers are arranged to your liking, place the other piece of stabilizer on top(or if you have a wider piece of stabilizer, you can fold it in half).

Pin it well to keep everything in place. Stitching is what holds everything in place. It’s best to start by

stitching a grid—it’s essential that the stitching cross so be sure to stitch in at least 2 directions

It’s easiest to stitch the short way first, then stitch the long way. After you have a grid you can add more stitching if you like. I find it easiest to do free-motion stitching. The stitching doesn’t show much, so this is a good place to practice if you are new to free-motion.

After stitching, place the scarf in warm water and soak and/or gently rub or agitate until the stabilizer is dissolved.

Wrap the scarf in a towel to blot, then hang it to dry.

FIBER CRAFT

Fabric Bead Bracelet

SUPPLIES-Scrap/organic fabric cut into triangular -memory wire  [approx 44″ long]-crimps-crimp covers-pliers-fabric glue -bamboo kebab skewer

HOW TO MAKE YOUR FABRIC BEAD BRACELETStep 1 Start to roll your fabric triangles around the bamboo skewer, starting from the wide base of the triangle.Step 2 Apply glue along the length of the fabric and continue rolling until the bead is complete.Step 3 Remove your bead carefully and allow to dry completely. Step 4 Bend one end of the memory wire around and secure with a crimp. [Requires adult supervision/assistance]Step 5 Apply crimp cover [requires adult supervision/assistance]Step 6 Thread beads onto wire.Step 7 Repeat steps 4 and 5 to finish bracelet.

How to Make Fabric BeadsMaterials-Knitting needles

-Fabric-An assortment of seed beads in all sizesa good quality thread-Glitzy/funky fibers,-A needle, pins, and basic sewing supplies.

Process1. Cut a strip of fabric about 45 inches long. Wrap it tightly (about 5

times) around the knitting needle, and then twist and wrap the fabric to create gentle folds. Pin in place.

2. Determine what kind of fiber you think would work best with your fabric choice. Wrap it and pin in place.

3. Thread your needle, double strand, hide the knot inside the fabric, and randomly stitch the beads on your fabric bead.

4. While you are stitching the beads, make sure that you go through all the layers. This will anchor the fabric, the fibers and the beads all at the same time. When you are done, pull the bead off the knitting needle 

Crochet Gift Card Holder Pattern

Here’s what you need:-worsted weight wool yarn-H hook-tapestry needle, scissorsProcessSolid Holder with Scalloped BorderSpecial Stitch:-Long single crochet (Lsc): Insert hook into stitch of previous row. Draw up a loop to height of current row being worked, complete as single crochet (the Lsc takes the place of the next stitch in the current row).-Ch 16, Sl st in furthest ch from hook to form a ring, do not turn.Rounds 1 through 13: Ch 1 (does not count as st here and throughout), work 1 sc in same st as join and each st around — 16 sts.Round 14: Ch 1, beginning in same st as join, *work 1 sc, ch 3, skip next st, rep from * around ending with a slip st in first sc of round.Fasten off.To close bottom of holder, turn piece around so that Row 1 is now on top, flatten cylinder; working through both the top and bottom unused loops of the beginning chain, pull up yarn in first loops, ch 1, work 1 sc in same loops and each pair of loops across.  Fasten off and weave in ends.If desired, weave a length of yarn in a coordinating color through the stitches of Round 13 and tie a pretty little bow in the front.

Multicolored Spiked HolderWith CA, ch 16, Sl st in furthest ch from hook to form a ring, do not turn.

Rounds 1 and 2: Ch 1 (does not count as st here and throughout), work 1 sc in same st as join and each st around — 16 sts.Round 3: Join CB, ch 1, beginning in same st as join, *work 1 sc, 1 Lsc in next st one row below, rep from * around, join — 16 sts.Rounds 4 through 12: Repeat sequence of Rounds 1 through 3.Round 13: Continuing with CB, ch 1, working back along sts just made, work 1 rev sc in each st around — 16 sts.Fasten off.To close bottom of holder, turn piece around so that Row 1 is now on top, flatten cylinder; working from left to right and through both the top and bottom unused loops of the beginning chain, pull up yarn in first loops, ch 1, work 1 rev sc in same loops and each pair of loops across. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Santa Claus Mason Jar Cosy

Materials: worsted weight yarn in red, white, and black. I used Bernat – Berry, Black, and White, 4.00mm crochet hook, small piece of gold felt, 1 small black button, gold embroidery thread and needleStitches used:ch – chainsc – single crochetinc – increaseBLO – back loop onlyNotes: Pattern is worked in continuous rounds, do not join or turn at the end of each round. Use stitchmarkers to keep track of beginning/end of each round. Starting with red yarn.Round 1: make 6 sc in ring or ch 2 and make 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook.Round 2: inc in each st (12 sts)Round 3: [sc in next st, inc in next st] repeat around (18 sts)Round 4: [sc in next 2 sts, inc in next st] repeat around (24 sts)Round 5: [sc in next 3 sts, inc in next st] repeat around (30 sts)Round 6: [sc in next 4 sts, inc in next st] repeat around (36 sts)Switch to white yarn.Round 7: sc around in BLO.Round 8: (in both loops again) sc around.Switch to red yarn.Rounds 9-10: sc around.Switch to black yarn.Rounds 11-12: sc around.Switch to red yarn.Rounds 13-15: sc around.Switch to white yarn.Rounds 16-17: sc around.Fasten off and weave ends.

Make the belt buckle with a small square piece of felt and sew with matching thread. Sew small button above belt buckle.Crochet Flower Coasters

Supplies: Ball of yarn, 3mm crochet hookProcessFoundation ring: Make 7ch, sl st into 1st ch to form ring.Rnd 1: 2ch (counts as 1st tr), 2ch, *1tr into ring, 2ch, rep from * 8 more times, sl st into 3rd ch at beg of round. (10 spokes coming out of ring)Rnd 2: Sl st into 1st 2ch sp from prev round, 3ch (counts as 1tr), work 2tr into same ch sp as sl st, 1ch, miss next tr, *3tr into next ch sp, 1ch, rep from * until all ch sp have been worked into, sl st into 3rd ch at beg of round. (10 sections of 3)Rnd 3: *4tr, then 1ch.Repeat from * 9 times. Sl st through the 1st tr to complete the circle.Rnd 4: Sl st into 1st 1ch sp from prev round, 4ch (counts as 1tr & 1ch), *miss 4tr, 5tr into next 1ch sp, 1ch, rep from * 8 more times, 4tr into last 1ch space sl st into 3rd of 4ch at beg of round. (10 sections of 4)Rnd 5: Sl st into 1st 1ch sp from prev round, 4ch (counts as 1tr and 1ch), *miss 5tr, 7tr into next 1ch sp, 1ch, rep from * 8 more times, 6tr into last 1ch space sl st into 3rd of 4ch at beg of round. (10 sections of 7)Break off yarn and sew in loose ends. Pin out on ironing board and cover with damp cloth, press with steam iron.

Felt Pencil Roll

You Will Need: 1/3 yard (30.5 cm) of wool or wool-blend felt*, Ruler, Disappearing fabric marker or tailor’s chalk, Craft knife, 1 yard (.9 m) of leather cord, 24 colored pencils

Process1. Cut the felt into a 9 x 33-inch (22.9 x 83.8 cm) rectangle. 

 Using a ruler and disappearing fabric marker or tailor’s chalk, mark one row of 24 dashes that are 1/2 inch (1.3 cm) long and 1/2 inch (1.3 cm) apart, starting 3 inches (7.6 cm) from the long edge and 1

inch (2.5 cm) in from the short edge. Mark another row of identical dashes 1/2 inch (1.3 cm) away from the first.

2. Repeat these markings 3 inches (7.6 cm) in from the other long edge and 1 inch (2.5 cm) in from the short edge: Using a ruler, mark one row of 24 dashes that are 1/2 inch (1.3 cm) long and 1/2 inch (1.3 cm) apart. Mark another row of identical dashes 1/2 inch (1.3 cm) away from the first.

3. Using a craft knife and self-healing mat (if desired), cut along the dashes to create slits for the pencils to slide through.

4. Attach the cord by cutting a small hole 1 inch (2.5 cm) in from and centered on the short edge. Fold the cord in half, tie a loop knot, and thread the two loose ends through the hole.

5. Fill your roll with pencils by threading them through the cuts, roll it up, wrap the cord around, tie, and enjoy!

DIY Wire- Free Wreath

What you need-3 x (1 yard x 5 inch wide) felt strips in different colors.-Merry Christmas sign for decoration and/or Christmas pick for embellishment. -Craft glue-rubber bands x2Process

1. You need to start by laying out your lengths of felt and beginning to plait.

2. You can use a rubber band to hold it in place as you plait.3. Scoop it around in to a circle to form the wreath.4. Secure the bottom with a rubber band and Unravel both ends to form

the loose dangle/tassel as shown in the photo.5. Secure the wreath with glue and cut the ends into smaller strips to

form the tassel like effect at the bottom.6. Finish off with your embellishments.

Knot an Angel

Materials-25 Cm's of thick rope or cord

-Ready made angel wings-Felt pens for drawing the face-Ribbon -Craft hairInstructions

1. Take your length of cord and tie a large not at one end.2. The knot will form the angels head. Fray out the bottom section to form the

angels dress as above in picture.3. Using your felt pens draw on or paint the face onto the knot section of the

angel (her head).4. Using some craft glue attach the wings to the back of the angel and allow to

dry.5. Place some glue around the top of the knot and glue on your angles hair.6. Glue on a ribbon loop for hanging to the middle of her back.

Recycled T-shirt- Dogs Tugga Toy

Materials: 20 1 inch x 20 inch (2.5 cm x 50 cm) recycled stretch knit from pants or tops in assorted colors.

Directions1. You can use recycled stretch knit from old t-shirts or pants or if you like you

can use new fabric.2. Cut the fabric into 20 pieces that measure approx 1 inch x 20 inch (2.5 cm x

50 cm) for a large dog.3. For smaller dogs reduce the length and quantity but not the 1 inch width.4. Lay your pieces together in 2 sections of 10. Twist the 2 sections together

and tie a large knot at each end as shown in the picture. Your knot should be tight and secure.

5. There is no need for gluing or sewing.6. Alternatively you can play your strands together or add extra knots

depending on your dogs’ desire.God’s Eye

Materials-Two 12″ dowels-yarn (try using different colors, weights, and fibers)-scissorsProcess

1. To start, put two dowels next to each other, and tie them together with a double knot around the middle.

2. Twist the dowels so they are perpendicular to one another. 3. Now it’s time to start wrapping! There are basically two different ways to wrap the

yarn around the dowel: over and under. To wrap the yarn over the dowel, pull the yarn strand across the top of the dowel, pull it under the dowel, behind the back, and back over the top. Then move on to the next dowel. 

4. To wrap the yarn under, start with the yarn beneath the dowel, pull it up over and behind again, and then move onto the next dowel. 

Wrap the entire piece going one direction. You get a flat look on the “over” side, and you can see the wrapped dowel on the “under” side.

5. To change yarns, simply tie the working yarn to one end of the new yarn and keep on wrapping! When you are finished with your piece, tie off the yarn and secure with a bit of glue if you like.

DIY 5 minutes hot pack

Things you’ll need:

Pair of socks Rice

Instructions:

1. Put some ample amount of rice inside the sock. It can be an old socks or you can buy cute one’s like these.

2. Tie the end and place it on top of tummy to make it warm andeasy for gas to come out.

FIBER CRAFT

ANGEL DOOR DECORATIONThings you’ll need: (1) 4-inch Metal or Plastic Ring, Wings: 2 mm Gold cord or standard yarn (total 17 yards), Body: 6mm White or Pastel colored cord or thick yarn (12 yards total), Hair: 6mm Cream colored cord, twisted style(3 yards total)Knots used: Interlaced plaits (3-strands), Lark’s head knots, Square knot, Linen stitch, Half stitchInstructions:

Step 1: Cut the cords as follows: (8) 12-inch cords for the hair (Twisted cord) (9) 45 -inch cords for the body (12) 50 -inch cords for the wings Step 2: Attach each of the cords for the hair at the top of the ring, by making a Larks Head knot

first. Then add a Half Hitch with each portion of the cord, so they rest beside the Larks Head Knot. To do so, direct the end over the ring, down behind it, and through the loop.

Step 3: Attach the cords for the body at the bottom of the ring, using Larks Head Knots only. For the wings, attach 6 of the cords between the hair and body cords, just as you did in Step 2 (Larks Head + Half Hitch). Attach the other 6cords in the same manner, on the other side of the ring.

Step 4: Arrange the strands into 6 groups consisting of 3 cords each. Number the groups 1 thru 6. Braid group 1 using the standard 3-strand braid used in hairstyles. When the braid is 6 inches long, tie a Half Hitch with one strand around the other 2, to secure it. Repeat for group #6. These are the ³arms´ of the Angel Door Decoration. Push them out of the way for now, you won't use them until later.

Step 5: Braid groups 2 thru 5 in the same manner, stopping when you reach 4inches. Be sure to tie the Half Hitch at the end of each braid. These 4 braids make up the body of the Angel.

Step 6: Bring the body braids together by making the Linen Stitch, wrapping one strand around all the others several times. Make a loop, and pass the end through it. Use a different strand,

and wrap it around all the others twice (including the one previously used). Make the loop, passing the end through. Try to make the loop in the back, if you can. Tie an Overhand knot, and apply glue.

Step 7: Trim the ends so they are even. You can add bells or beads to the individual strands, or unravel them to make a fluffy skirt.

Step 8: To make the first Wing for the Angel door decoration, organize the strands into 4 groups of 3. Braid each group as you did the body, ending with the Half Hitch to secure the braid. The total length of each Wing braid should be 9inches. Repeat the process for the other Wing.

Step 9: Attach each of the Wing braids to the body by passing the center cord of each group through spaces in the body braids, front to back. Use the other 2 cords in each group to tie a Square Knot around the center cord, to secure it.

Step 10: Take the 2 braids you tied as the ³arms´ of the Angel door decoration, and bring them to the middle of the body, just above the wrapped portion. Pass the cords through spaces in the front of the body, front to back. Flip the design over. Tie a Square Knot in each group of 3 cords (1filler). Apply glue and allow it to dry. Cut off any remaining cord.

Step 11: If you wish to add bells in the center of the body, add one or more just above the point where the arm cords passed through. It will look like the Angel is holding the bells. You can also add flowers, as seen in the images.

Step 12: Unravel each of the cords for the hair. Brush or comb the individual strands until you are happy with the design.

FIBER DISPLAY

Things you’ll need:

1 piece of cardboard, at least 8 inches wide, and 15 inches long Embroidery thread, or thin string, about 14 yards 1 piece of construction paper or cardstock Pencil Ruler Scissors Yarn (multiple colors) Wooden dowel or stick, cut to about 8” Leather or twine for hanging

Instructions

Step 1: Making the loom Using a ruler, mark the center point of the width, and mark ¼” segments 10 each

side of center, a total of 21. Repeat on the other end. Cut the segments ¼” deep with a pair of scissors.

Wrap the end of the thread around the outermost cut, winding in one or two spaces, then back to the outer cut to secure the thread.

Wind around, lengthwise, end to end, with decent tension (do not warp cardboard) until you reach the last cut on the other side, secure in the same way, by wrapping back in and out, and trim the end. You have made the warp! And you are ready to weave in the yarn, crosswise, this is called the weft.

Fold a piece of construction paper in half lengthwise, then fold until it is about ½”x 8”, insert under the strings on one end. This lifts them for weaving.

Step 2: Plain Weave (Tabby Weave)

To start weaving, wrap a few feet of yarn around your pinky and thumb to form a skein.

Starting from the left side, with the loom in front of you, lengthwise, paper side closest to you, insert the end of the skein in and out the first few warp strings, tuck the end down toward the paper.

Starting from left to right, weave over and under each warp thread, back and forth either side. Keep it really LOOSE, if you make it too tight, it’ll pull the warp threads together and the tapestry won’t be straight. Do about 10 rows to make a full inch. Push it down to compact and make the weave tight.

Step 3: Sloping

After an inch or so of tabby, starting 4 warp strings in, anchor your yarn as you did with the plain weave, and work back and forth, plain weave, to the other side, 4 places in. Do this for 5 rows, the drop a warp thread each side, repeat for another 5 rows, drop another each side, repeat, until you get to just two warp threads, winding around 5 rows, cut off and tuck under. You now have a big triangle.

To fill in the sides of the triangle, tabby back and forth in different colors, varying the width of each row, to create a gradual sloping effect.

Follow with another inch (10 rows) of plain weave.

Step 4: The Swedish Braid

Anchor your yarn, and go over 2 warp threads, looping under the 2nd thread, repeat all the way across.

Go back and forth at least 4 times to create an inch of braid. Follow with another inch of plain weave

Step 5: Dovetail

Working with three different skeins of yarn, create color block by interlocking weaves as they meet on warp yarns. To do this divide the loom into three sections, of 7 warp threads each. Tabby across, when, where they meet, twist the yarns around one another and turn back, the middle row will interlock on both sides, or one of the outer blocks cannot connect, leaving a slot.

Follow with another inch of plain weave.

Step 7: RYA Weave (the fringe weave)

This one is fun! Cut yarn several (40-60) 1 ½ inch pieces of yarn. Center the yarn over two warp threads and pull ends up through the warp. Go

across one row. On the return (right to left) drop the first warp thread so that your knot will offset

from the first row. Repeat for 3-4 rows.

Follow with an inch of plain weave.

Step 8: Tie it off

Pull the paper guide out of the loom, and compress the weave, it will be about 5”x5”.

Cut the warp threads (leaving 5 inches of thread on either side to tie off. Use a square knot to tie 2 threads together at a time, trim flush with the tapestry.

Step 9: Tassels!

I made pom-pom tassels for the girls to hang off their tapestries. To do this just wrap yarn around the tines of a fork, about 50 revolutions.

Remove the looped yarn, tying around the middle with another piece of yarn. Cut the loops and even out to make a perfect ball Attach to the back side of the tapestry with a piece of yarn, just by knotting

through some of the weave under the RYA tufting.

CROCHET KITTY BAG

Things you’ll need: Two contrasting colors of any thread or yarn, The Gypsy thread, 4 1/2” x 5/8” Velcro, Transparent thread, Sewing needle.Instructions:

1. Starting with the denim thread, make a slip knot (leaving a 5-inch tail), then chain 39 stitches. Starting with the second chain, SC 37 stitches. SC 4 stitches into the last chain for a total of 41 stitches. Continue to SC using the new top of the chain until you come around to the first stitch, carrying the “tail” as you go. SC 3 stitches into the last stitch. This round should have a total of 80 stitches. This piece is worked as a spiral, not in concentric rings, so do not turn or join.

2. Start to carry the natural thread in this round. SC around without any increases, carrying the natural thread. You will begin to tapestry crochet the figure motif in the next round. To do a tapestry crochet (TC) stitch, threads are switched while 2 loops are still on the hook; so yarn over with natural and pull it through the denim loops of the last stitch of this round to prepare for the first TC stitch of the next round. From now on, the bag should always have 80 stitches at the end of every round.

3. Crochet the motif as follows: TC 2 natural, 4 denim, 2 natural, then 2 denim stitches. Repeat this sequence 7 more times.

4. TC 1 denim, 2 natural, 4 denim, 2 natural, and then 1 denim stitch. Repeat around.5. TC 2 denim, 2 natural, 4 denim, then 2 natural stitches. Repeat around.6. TC 3 denim, then 7 natural stitches. Repeat around.7. TC 3 denim, 2 natural, 4 denim, and then 1 natural stitch. Repeat around.8. TC 2 denim, 4 natural, 3 denim, and then 1 natural stitch. Repeat around.

9. TC 2 denim, 1 natural, 1 denim, 1 natural, 1 denim, 1 natural, 2 denim, and then 1 natural stitch. Repeat around.

10. TC 2 denim, 5 natural, 2 denim, and then 1 natural stitch. Repeat around.11. TC 3 denim, 1 natural, 2 denim, 1 natural, and then 3 denim stitches. Repeat around.

Finishing:Round A: Crochet 14 (or the number necessary to bring the stitch to the edge of the bag) denim stitches while carrying the natural. Chain 100 stitches with the denim thread (that is still attached to the bag). For a longer or shorter strap, increase or decrease at this point. Insert the hook into the next stitch, first making sure that the chain is not twisted.Rounds B & C: Crochet around the top of the bag with the denim thread while carrying the natural. Continue to SC onto the chain, while carrying the natural thread.Round D: SC around the top of the bag and the strap with the denim and natural threads joined together , slip stitch at the end of the round, cut the threads (leaving 6 inch tails) then yarn over and pull the threads all the way through the loop. Work in the ends for 2 inches to secure them, then trim them off.Turn over the strap. Insert the hook into the stitch on top of the bag between the beginning and end of the strap. Pull through a loop of denim and natural (joined together), leaving 2” tails hanging out of the back. Chain 1, then crochet around the strap, inserting the hook into the bottom loops of the chain, while carrying the tail. At the end of the round, slip stitch, cut the threads (leaving 6 inch tails) then yarn over and pull them all the way through the loop. Work in the ends for 2 inches to secure them, trim them off, and then block the bag with a steam iron. Sew Velcro 1/2” below the inside top edge of the bag with transparent thread.

DIY RAG TO RICH DESIGN

DIY DOLL SHOES

Metal works

SIMPLE COPPER CANDLEHOLDER

WHAT YOU NEED: 3/4″ copper couplings (one for each candleholder), 4″ x 4″ x 2″ lumber (Unfortunately, this usually comes in 6 , 8 or 10 lengths, so you’ll have a lot extra if you only make a couple of these. But you can at ′ ′ ′least have them cut to size at the hardware store.)mitre box and wood saw 4″ round wooden craft discs (these are available at craft and art supply stores)drill with 1″ boring bit attachment, sandpaper or power sander, candles, wood glue

INSTRUCTIONS1. Once you have your pieces of lumber cut down to size, sand them all over

with a medium- and then a fine-grit sandpaper until they are nice and smooth.

2. Measure the center of one edge of the square piece of wood and hold up the disc to the center of the edge. Mark the width of the disc on the wood to use as a cutting guide.

3. Clamp your piece of wood to a stable surface and begin sawing at a 45-degree angle just inside the left-hand mark you made. Stop when your saw has reached 1/2″ into the top and side face of the wood. Repeat the same cut just inside the right-hand mark and stop at the same point. Then you’ll have a thin little sliver of wood in the center, which you can continue sawing into and it will chip away. Once you have the slot cut out, wedge the disc into place to check that it fits nicely, and continue sawing out bit by bit until you have a nice snug fit.

4. Now place your copper coupling onto the surface of the wood and see where you’d like it to be positioned. Use a pen or pencil to trace the circle inside the coupling to use as a drilling guide.

5. Remove the wood disc and clamp the wood piece back down onto the stable work surface. Place the center tip of the boring bit into the center of the circle you drew and drill down 1/8″ into the wood, creating a shallow circular cavity for the coupling. Use your sandpaper to clean the edges, and wipe the piece down to remove any splinters or sawdust.

6. Put a small dab of wood glue into the slot for the disc and along the sides of the shallow circular cavity. Place the disc into the slot and gently tap it down into place with a mallet or stick. Place the copper coupling down into the shallow cavity. Use a rag or a slightly damp Q-tip to remove any excess glue and set the piece aside to dry.

7. You’re done! You can now coat the whole piece with a protective sealant, or just oil the wood for a nice even sheen and enjoy the warm glow of holiday candlelight!

COPPER TUBING SIDE TABLE

WHAT YOU NEED: piece of MDF (I made mine about 16″ square), copper tubing (22mm thick), epoxy glue for metal, spray paint in two colors (I used neon yellow and bronze), white spray paint, masking tape

drill with 22mm boring bit (learn more about drills and bits here), sandpaper, metal cutter, clamps

INSTRUCTIONS

Cut the copper tubing down to four legs. I chose to cut it at 16″. The metal cutter is super

simple and a cinch to work.

Spray your MDF with white first.

Add masking tape down the diagonal line and mask one side that you don’t want to

paint.

Spray the one side with your color of choice and let it dry.

Mask the now-painted side and spray the opposite side. Repeat on the other side of the

board.

Clamp your board down to the table. With your drill, figure out how deep you want it to

go and create a line with your masking tape on the bit.

Measure how far in you want your hold. I did mine 1 1/2″ in from the diagonal. Mark it on

each corner. Drill each hole in.

Follow the directions on the epoxy glue. I had to mix the two solutions together before

applying it to the hole and the tubing. Hold the tubing in place while it dries.

Repeat on all four legs and wait a full day to let it dry before using it.

SILVER-LEAFED LAMPSHADE

WHAT YOU NEED

large lamp shade preferably with a plastic interior (You want the bulb to be a safe distance from the edges

of the shade. This is not recommended on small shades.)

baby powder

adhesive size for leafing

metal leafing

wide paintbrush

soft brush (such as a blush brush)INSTRUCTIONS

Using the wide paintbrush, paint the entire interior of the shade with the adhesive sizing. Paint the

sizing as smoothly as possible, as the leaf will show brushstrokes. Also, paint edges carefully,

making sure to paint only the plastic and not the fabric. The leaf will stick to any stray sizing.

Wash the wide brush while the sizing dries until transparent and tacky.

Powder your hands with the baby powder to prevent the metal leaf from sticking and tearing if you

touch it. Start at the bottom of the shade, or the most visible side of the shade. My shade hangs

from a pendant, so we look up into it. I wanted the bottom edge to look the cleanest. But if you

have a table lamp, you might want to start at the top, depending on its height.

Open the booklet of metal leaf. Slide one sheet about an inch over the edge and close the

booklet. Hold the booklet by the “spine” and line up the edge of the sheet of metal leaf with the

edge of the lampshade that meets the fabric.

Use the soft brush to push the metal leaf to the shade interior. Pull the booklet away from the

edge, allowing the full sheet of metal leaf to come out of the book. Paint over the sheet of leaf

with the soft brush, pressing it down to the shade interior.

Repair any tears in the leaf with small pieces of leafing.

With the dry wide paintbrush, brush over the entire interior of the shade removing any loose

pieces of leaf. You may want to do this outside, as the pieces of metal fly everywhere!

Hang the shade and you are finished!

BRONZE NAIL CEILING DESIGN

WHAT YOU NEED

nailhead trim — 40″ strips (I used 44), or you can buy it in yards here

loose nailhead nails

octagon shape out of cardboard (My ceiling is roughly 8′ x 9′ and I used a 22″ x 21″ octagon. You can

simply print an octagon shape online and enlarge it with a copier.)

pencil

hammer

ladder or step stool (for reaching your ceiling)

INSTRUCTIONS

Determine where you plan to begin your pattern — you could start around a light fixture, from the center or from the edge. Then, using a pencil, lightly trace around the pattern on the ceiling.

Follow your pattern and start nailing. A tack is placed at very fifth nailhead. I was able to push the tacks directly into the drywall in some areas, but it helps to have a hammer handy, as well.

Keep nailing. The strips easily break apart when you get to the end of a line. I measured mine by putting the strip up to the pattern and breaking off the amount needed.

If your nails don’t line up exactly as you had hoped, you can gently remove and shift the lines over a bit to adjust. Don’t worry about slight imperfections in the pattern, though. Just do your best!

Add a line of tacks around the perimeter for a finishing touch. After adding the border, touch up any visible pencil lines and smudges with paint.

Done! Patience is key in this project, but the results are worth it!

VINTAGE-STYLE BRASS PENDANT LAMP

WHAT YOU NEED

six metal sheets in brass (or metal of your choice)

pendant lamp kit (mine is from Amazon)

circle template (they sell these at architecture/art supply stores, or you can trace a small circular object)

marker

disc cutter and hammer (available here or at specialty hardware stores)

gold paint/spray paint (for the light fixture)

10-gauge soft brass wire

brass rivets

INSTRUCTIONS

Take the sheets of brass and use a circle template to draw the design on the first piece.

Use a disc cutter equal to or slightly larger than the diameter of your circle template and a

hammer to cut the holes in the brass sheets. You may be able to do this with a good hole

puncher, as the brass was pretty thin and easy to work with.

Using the first sheet with the punched holes as a template, trace the same design on all the

others and repeat the hole-punching process.

Line up the sheets where they will overlap a bit (to form one longer sheet), and mark where you

will drill holes to attach them to each other using rivets. I used 4 brass sheets for the top shade

and 2 for the bottom shade.

Paint the light bulb cover to match the brass finish (gold will work fine).

To attach the smaller shade to the larger, drill 4 matching holes in the top of the bottom piece and

the bottom of the top piece in order to thread a 10-gauge straight piece of brass wire through

each side. I also soldered 3 spokes (cut from the same 10-gauge wire) to a circle of brass in

order to attach the top piece to the pendant holder, but if you can’t solder, you can probably

achieve the same look by bending wire spokes around a circle of brass without the soldering.

Screw the pendant fixture in place to secure the brass structure to the light fixture.

You’re done — the piece is ready to hang! The great thing about these materials is that they are

lightweight and easy to manipulate to get the balance right on your ceiling.

STRIPPING TIN

WHAT YOU NEED

nontoxic paint stripper

gloves

scraper and razor blade

trash bag, tarp or newspapers for work surface

paint brush

metal polish

clean rags

optional

old toothbrush

medium grade steel wool

finishing grade sandpaper

INSTRUCTIONS

Brush on paint stripped, following manufacturer’s instructions. Don’t forget to provide proper

ventilation.

Using scraper, remove paint after allotted time. With razor blade, carefully remove any residual

paint. For curved or decorative edges like mine, I used an old toothbrush to remove paint from

cervices.

Remove all traces of stripper and if needed lightly scrub with steel wool to remove rust spots.

Sand off any scratches.

With a clean rag and polish.

PORTABLE FIRE PIT

WHAT YOU NEED: marine silicone, cheap glass frames (these need to fit around the edges of your

planter), rocks, any kind of metal mesh (available at hardware stores), gel fuel, any metal planter with a lip

(edge)

INSTRUCTIONS

Once you buy your planter, find cheap frames with glass that will fit around the edges of your

planter. I used glass document holders from the Dollar Store for $1 each.

Construct a glass box by running a thin bead of silicone along the edge of one glass panel. Place

another piece of glass over the siliconed edge. Press edge into silicone and hold for a few

minutes.

Apply silicone to the second edge, propping both sides up to keep them straight until they dry.

Once the silicone on the two sides has dried, flip the box over so the open edge faces you. Run a

thin bead of silicone along both exposed edges of glass.

Gently place the final piece of glass between the two siliconed edges being careful *not* to smear

the silicone.

Now you have a box! A glass box. Wasn’t that easy? Let the silicone dry for 15 minutes or so. Go

eat a cookie. Don’t be alarmed if your silicone squeezes out like this. You can clean it up with a

razor once it’s dry.

Run a final bead of silicone around the entire edge of the glass box. Flip the box over, placing the

siliconed edge on top of the metal planter. Make sure there’s enough edge near the center left

over for some metal mesh to rest on it.

Now that you have the structure, just a little tweaking is necessary to prepare it for a fire. Cut a

piece of mesh (I used a cheapo grill grate from Dollar Store) to fit *exactly* inside your glass box.

It will rest on the lip of the planter. Place your opened can of gel fuel in the center of the planter.

Use enough mesh to cover the entire surface of the planter, resting it on the small edge of the

planter you’ve left inside the glass box.

Cover the mesh loosely with rocks, leaving some space in between the rocks to allow for oxygen

so the fire will stay lit.

Clear the rocks away from above the gel fuel can and carefully light the gel fuel. I use an

advanced technique — I light the end of a piece of spaghetti. Whole wheat of course.

COFFEE CAN LANTERNS

WHAT YOU NEED

Coffee Cans

– Ball-peen hammer

– 2 x 4 (one foot length)

– 1 x 4 (two foot length)

– Clamps

– Nails, screwdrivers (variety)

– Votives

INSTRUCTIONS

Prepare your workspace by attaching the 1×4 to the 2×4 as shown using wood screws or nails.

Make sure the 1×4 extends the 2×4 on one end by the depth of your can and is attached with the

1inch edge upwards. This thin work area helps to prevent denting to your lantern when punching

the design. Use the clamps to secure the 2×4 to a sturdy table.

Print out the design of your choice and tape it around your can.

Place the end of the 1×4 inside your can. Using a small nail, punch the corner dots in the design

you choose. Turn the can as you go to make sure that the area you are punching is supported by

the wood.

Remove the paper. Using your other tools finish punching the rest of the design following your

guide holes. Experiment with a variety of nails and screwdrivers to create different shape and size

punches.

For hanging, use the wire to create a simple hook by threading a length of wire through two holes

on opposite sides of the can and secure.

To finish add 2-3 votives, light and enjoy!

BRUSHED METAL GIFT TAGS

WHAT YOU NEED

A small sheet of aluminum - I picked up the thinnest and smallest piece. This one cost about $8.

Pencil

Ruler

Tin Snips

A Metal cutting tool of some sort. I used a jig saw with a metal-cutting blade. You can certainly try

your luck with tin snips or an electric cutter.

Hammer

Metal Letter Punch kit. I found a cheap (and poor quality) set online for about $10.

Electric drill with a 5/16" bit

320 Grit sandpaper

fine steel wool (optional)

INSTRUCTIONS

Start by measuring and marking 2x3" name tags in a grid. This will help with cutting your lines

with a saw. I clamped my sheet to the edge of a table and cut away. use a piece of wood about

as wide as the sheet to assure even clamp pressure. This will minimize accidental bending.

Once your pieces are cut you'll probably have to hammer them flat. The jig saw is a nutty tool that

can shake all over a flimsy piece of metal.

Next, mark the 45 degree angles for the top of your tags. Use a pair of tin snips, or a hack saw, to

cut these pieces.

Next, you want to soften all the edges so none of your gift receivers cut themselves. To do this,

place the tag on the edge of your workbench and use a sheet of 320 grit sandpaper to buff out

the edges. With a downward and forward stroke, round over every edge on both sides. This will

bring all the edges together into a round shape ... and not into a sharp blade shape–ouch!

Drill holes at the tops of your tags and carefully remove the shavings and pieces that will still be

stuck to your tag. If you have a small metal file, use it here to remove the tear out.

I happened to have this cheap letter punch kit, so I decided to add "TO" and "FROM" on each

tag. If you don't have a punch kit like this, you could use a Dremel with an engraving bit to write

your message. You could also use a small nail and hammer holes in the form of the letters you

want.

To create the brushed look, I rubbed the tags in a circular motion on a piece of sandpaper that

was taped down to my table. After writing up this post, I realized using fine steel wool would do a

much better job. I recommend you use that instead! 

STAMPED METAL MONOGRAM PENDANT

WHAT YOU NEED

metal stamping blank

two sizes of alphabet stamps

light hammer

black Sharpie

fine sandpaper or nail file

steel bench block

INSTRUCTIONS

Begin by marking a dot dead center on your stamping blank. For this project, I used a 1″ brass circular blank. Continue by marking another dot on each side of the center mark, being sure to space them evenly.

Place your blank onto the steel bench block. The block will absorb the impact when you hammer the stamp and will make a much neater, more even impression. Use the larger stamp size for the last name initial. Line it up over the center mark, and make sure that it’s right side up! Carefully hammer the top of the stamp with one to two light strikes. Using the two smaller stamps, repeat the same process, being sure to align them properly.

Once you’ve stamped all three initials, color in the impressions with the black Sharpie. Don’t worry about marking the metal; just be sure to fill in all the grooves in the letters.

Give the Sharpie a moment to dry, then use your very fine sandpaper or nail file to buff away the surface ink. Use a small, circular motion, and continue to buff until you’ve removed all the Sharpie from the blank.

Use a lightly-dampened soft cloth or paper towel to wipe away the marker residue and any metal dust, being careful not to inhale any of the dust.

Although you can buy your blanks already hole-punched, I prefer to do it myself. It sometimes makes the blanks a little bit cheaper, and it allows me to put the hole wherever I want. You need a metal punch, and you can just line the hole in the punch with where you’d like it on the blank. 

Thread a jump ring onto the blank, and string it onto a chain or ribbon. That’s it – you’re done!!!

METAL WORKS

Make a Heart-Shaped Ring Out of Wire

Turn Clothes Hangers Into Shoe Hangers

DIY DRUMS

WHAT YOU NEED

 tin cans, leather, decorative fabric, leather laces, Crop-a-dile, wooden dowel and ball, hot glue gun, and cotton

INSTRUCTIONS

Cut your fabric to fit around your tin can. Use Elmer's Glue to glue it in place. Lay out your leather and trace around your can. Measure 1 inch around the traced circle and

draw another circle. Use a pen to map out your holes. Use a Crop-a-dile to punch the holes out. If you don't have a

Crop-a-dile, you can use a large needle to make your holes Run your leather lace through the holes. Cinch tight over the top of the can. Repeat the same

steps for the bottom. Run another leather lace diagonally through the top and bottom laces (see picture below for reference).

Insert your wooden dowel into the wooden ball. Glue cotton all over the ball to create your drum sticks.

Enjoy your adorable new gift!

COLOR BLOCK WINE RACK MADE FROM COFFEE CANS

WHAT YOU NEED

4–12 large coffee or tomato cans (depending on the size of rack you want to make)– can opener– 1 can white spray paint– 3–4 cans brightly colored spray paint– E6000 Glue– cardboard or a drop cloth– gloves (optional)

INSTRUCTIONS

Remove the labels and make sure the cans are completely clean and dry. With a can opener remove the bottom of each can so they are open on both ends. (If there

are any rough edges, file them down to protect your fingers. Spray the insides of each can in a bright color. We chose to go with a range of blues and

purples. Be sure to spray from both ends. Once the insides are dry, spray the outsides of the cans white. We found that this took two

coats to be fully covered. After the cans are completely dry arrange them into groupings by horizontal row. Glue the

cans together in a row, and secure with binder clips or clothespins while they dry. Repeat with the additional rows

Once the glue has dried, glue each row together and secure with binder clips. Allow this round of glue to dry fully before using.

Remove the bottom of the can, and the inner ring around the top if your can has one. This will allow you to slide the bottles in evenly and make sure everything is balanced.

Glue your rows together and give the glue time to dry. Securing the cans with binder clips or clothespins will make sure nothing shifts.

Finally, start gluing your rows together. You’ll need to stack the cans and mark where to put the glue.

TIN CAN CADDY

WHAT YOU NEED

8 or so small to medium size tin cans and 1 large coffee can. 

Mod Podge

INSTRUCTIONS

Measure the height and circumference of all the outer cans and cut coordinating fabric to these

dimensions. Next, slather a coat of Mod Podge to the outside and wrap and adhere the fabric to

the cans.

Then put a coat of Mod Podge on the outside of the can. Set aside to dry. Paint the coffee can

with gesso and sand lightly. Some of my cans had rust on the inside, so I sponged on

some gesso there as well.

Arrange the small cans around the coffee can (looks super cute like this, but I knew I needed to

have the cans up off the ground).

Mark the inside of the coffee can, where you want the small cans to hang.

Using an awl and a hammer, punch 2 holes in the smaller cans, close to the top rim.

And then punch the coordinating holes in the coffee can.

Next, thread a small length of wire, from the inside of the small cans, then into the coordinating

hole of the coffee can.

And with pliers, twist the wire on the inside to secure the small cans.

BLING PENCIL POT

WHAT YOU NEED

clean canDecorative vase fillers - marblesNail varnisha sheet of white paperModge podge

Hot Glue Gun

INSTRUCTIONS

Start by painting the backs of the marbles with your choice of nail varnish, I picked two blue

(tocompliment the decor in my office) but any colors will work

Cover the tin can with white paper, inside and out sticking it with Modge podge

Cover the can with your tinted marbles - use a hot glue gun

FORK PHOTO DISPLAY

WHAT YOU NEED

Fork

INSTRUCTIONS

Start with the fork facing away from you (the back of the fork towards you).

Bend the 2nd and 3rd prong towards yourself and slightly to the sides.

Bend the 1st and 4th prong away from you and slightly to the sides.

Use the plier and bend the tips of the 1st and 4th prong. This will keep the photo in place.

KITCHEN UTENSIL KEY RACK

WHAT YOU NEED

* 3 pieces of silverware (thin spoons and forks work best)

* Acrylic paint

* 3 pieces of square, unfinished wood (I got mine at Hobby Lobby for 99 cents each)

* Clear Gorilla Glue

* 3 brass triangular hangers (you will glue these to the back of the wood)

INSTRUCTIONS

Bend your utensils: I’ve found that the easiest way to do this is to drop the three utensils into

boiling water. Once they’ve softened a bit, use tongs to remove the silverware from the water.

Wearing cleaning gloves, bend the silverware around something small and round (I used a small

drinking glass).

Paint your wood pieces, 1-2 coats of acrylic paint each.

glue the brass triangular hooks to the back (make sure they are straight or your key rack will hang

crookedly)

Glue the utensils on the front using the smallest amount of Gorilla Glue possible. If you use too

much glue, it will puff up alongside the silverware, so be careful!

Hang up your new key rack!

COPPER CUFF

WHAT YOU NEED

Copper Tubing

-Tubing Cutter

-Hammer

INSTRUCTIONS

Measure out how long you will need your cuff with a flexible tape measure. Use the tubing cutter to cut the wire to size and sand the ends so they are smooth. If you want a flat cuff, use a hammer to pound it flat on a smooth, hard surface. Use something sturdy and round (and a bit larger than the size of your wrist) to bend the tubing

around. Wear it!

CLEAR BAG WITH COPPER HANDLESWHAT YOU NEED

/ two copper tubes/ plastic/ sewing machine or needle and thread

INSTRUCTIONS

Take measurements. Decide how large you want your bag to be. Mine was 40cm (width) x 30cm (height).

cut one large rectangle of 40 cm x 60cm and fold it in half, don't forget to add a few centimeters for the tubes, the final measurements of the plastic would be approximately 40cm x 65cm.

Fold the plastic in half and cut out a square in the middle, where your hand is going to go through. Fold over the four flaps left on the top and sew creating four 'loops' where the tubes will go

through. Make sure they are tight enough so that the tubes won't slip out. Close the bag with a seam on each side, not making it go all the way up to leave a bit of room to

open and close the bag. Put the tubes through the loops (don't worry about their weight, they are actually super light!) and

it's finished!

TIN CAN TABLE NUMBERS

WHAT YOU NEED

drill (with an appropriately sized bit) gold spray paint tape candles a ruler letter size colored paper spray mount exacto knife cutting mat

INSTRUCTIONS

Tape off the inside of your cans so no spray paint gets inside. Spray the outside of each can with

the gold spray paint (or any color you like). You may need to do two or three coats depending on

how opaque you want to the color to be

Once your cans are dry, wrap your printed number stencil around each tin can.

Drill. Start by drilling the outline of the number first (following the stencil line), and then work your

way in. It certainly doesn’t have to be perfect, but the more holes you can drill, the more light your

can will give off.

Slide your colored paper into the can on the opposite side as the number. Mark the paper with the

appropriate height and width (you don’t want it to cover your numbers. Next trim the paper to the

correct size using your cutting mat and exacto.

Spray mount the trimmed paper to the inside of your can (opposite the number). And you’re done!

We used red paper but you can of course use whatever color you like. If you’re using a color

you’re not sure about, consider doing a test can first and lighting it that night to make sure you

like the look before you finish the rest of your numbers.

METAL WORKS

ALUMINUM CAN ORNAMENTS

WHAT YOU NEED

Empty aluminum beverage cans

Scissors

Sandpaper (sanding block is helpful but not necessary, or wrap sandpaper around a bit of wood)

Pen or pencil

Ribbon or cord for hanging

INSTRUCTIONS

Start with an aluminum drink can.

Cut off the top and bottom with scissors. (Wear gloves and glasses to be extra safe.) A knife is

good to make the first cut so you can get your scissors in there. Cut down the side–if you haven’t

done so already to get the top and bottom off–and flatten it out.

Trace your object. I like leaves, but you could use a drawing or just freehand it. (Snowflakes?

Fruit? Use your imagination.) Bear down with your pencil or ballpoint or other pointy thing so you

make a cutting line.

Cut along the lines. Be careful. Cut aluminum is sharp.

With your pointy thing and using your object as a reference, whether it is a leaf like mine or what-

have-you, emboss your cut-out with veins, other details, etc. Take a nail and make a hole for

hanging the ornament.

Sand the piece to remove any burrs and other hazards and to give it a nice pewtery surface. A

sanding block or its equivalent is handy for this. I sanded the front and back. If you prefer, you

can sand the color off entirely, but I left it for a distressed look. The veins or other details are

emphasized by the sanding so you want to make sure you emboss before you sand for this

effect.

Add a ribbon, cord, or a length of raffia to hang it up. That’s it.

Metal wire frames

These are beautiful easy metal wire frames that take only a few minutes, but speak out with love and caring. They are great picture frames because you use the wire, to create one word that tells other how you feel. You can use words like; Love, Mom, Joy, etc.

Things you will need:

Lucite frame A photo to go in the frame Wire cutters Tooth picks Needle nose pliers Translucent pony beads Low temperature glue gun Metallic silver pony beads Wire solder from a hardware or craft store

Directions:

The wire solder is will be relatively easy to bend. You will want to start with the word you want to use. Then you will want to create a frame that will go around the entire frame edge. You can use pliers, wire cutters, or even a pen to help mold the wording the way you want it.

Now you will need to take the translucent and silver beads and place them in different areas of the wire craft. These beads will be what you will use to anchor the metal wire onto the frame. So placing them an inch or two apart would be a good idea.

The word should be placed at the top or bottom of the picture frame. This way there is plenty of room for the picture to be seen.

If you need to cut the wires, and bend them a bit to make them mesh together better, it will work fine also.

Now take the hot clue and put a little glue onto each of the beads. Then press the beads onto the frame and clear with the toothpicks any extra so there are not any drops on the frame.

Let the frame dry.

Metal Flower

Things you will need:

1 small sheet of rusty tin dremel tool daisy stencil from Painting.About.com tin snips one bottle cap one large bead about twelve inches of copper wire for a stem hot glue tacky glue

Directions:

Use your dremel tool to draw out lines and squiggles onto your rusty tin.  If you don’t have this tool, you could scrape out some lines with a nail or screw tip.  It will just take a little longer.

Cut out your petals using a tin snips.  You may be able to use a heavy duty scissors if the metal is thin enough.  You could easily cut out your petals free hand.  However, if you are like me and want to have a template, you can print off the free stencil to trace out the petals first.

Use a bottle cap to hot glue each of your petals to.  Put a drop of hot glue on the inner point of the front facing petal.  Press this point to the back of the bottle cap so that most of the petal is showing.  The bottle cap acts as the center of the flower.

Once you have all of your petals glued in place, hot glue your bead to the middle of the bottle cap.  I first put a drop of tacky glue and then the hot glue for some extra adhesion.  If the edges of your petals are rough from cutting you will want to smooth them down with sand paper or a metal file.  Next, cut out a round circle, about the size of the bottle cap, to glue to the back of the flower over all of the petal points.  This just adds another layer of adhesion plus a smooth and finished look from the back.

Cut a section of copper wire the length you need for your container.   Hot glue this to the back of your flower on the round metal circle.

You are now ready to insert your flower into the container of your choice!  You can make a whole bouquet if you like.

Dragonfly pendant

Things you will need: Craft wire, jewelry pliers, Bead, Dragonfly template.

Directions:

Measure and cut 24 inches of craft wire. You can take more if you want to, for making a bigger dragonfly pendant. I made 3 cm tall dragonfly using 24 inches craft wire.

Bend the wire into half, Tighten the bend using a flat nose plier. Place the bent wire on the template and carefully bend the wire along

the body part of the dragonfly.

o For the wings:

Now to make the wings. First, I made the bottom right wing, by bending the wire along the

bottom right wing of the template. Then I made the bottom left, top right and top left wings accordingly. Just simply bend the wire along the outlines of the dragonfly template.

o For coiling the body:

After completing the wings, coil the part where all the wings join. I coiled that part 2 times. After coiling, keep 2.5 cm of craft wire for the head and cut off the rest.

o Head:

I'm confused about whether dragonflies have antenna or not! Anyways, I had to complete the head somehow, so I inserted a bead

into both wires and made swirly patterns on both of them. You might need to use beads with bigger holes than usual because it

has to be inserted into 2 wireso Attaching the Jump Ring:

Make jump rings and attach it with any one of the swirly patterns to complete the pendant.

Let me know if you like the pendant and make sure to share a picture if you make one ^_^

Enjoy!

Tin can lanterns

Things you’ll need:

Empty/clean Tin can Hammer Nails Strong Glue Spray pain (any color for your liking) Candle Wire

Directions:

Using the Strong Glue for metal, Glue the lid underneath the tin can, this will serves as the floor of the candle inside. And this will make the lantern more sturdy

Next, by using the hammer and nail, you can poke holes at side of the tin can, this will illuminate the light to its sides. You can poke holes in any styles you desire.

And now, we can now paint it using the spray paint. For the finishing touches, attach the wire at the both side of the tip of

the tin can. So we will be able to have a handle. Enjoy! You can place the candle inside!

MOSAICS