Chapter 19

Wigs and Hair Additions

•Important role in fashion

•Either a simple retail effort or a highly specialized field

•Opportunities for stylists to cut, color, and care for wigs

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•Range from clip-on hairpieces to elaborately applied extensions

•Newest technique, single strands of hair are meticulously hand-tied onto individual strands of clients hair

•Requires specialized training

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•Each manufacturer has its own attachment method

•Take the manufacturer’s class

•Inventory can be a hefty investment

•Clip-on extensions-demand is high

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•Income ranges from a small amount to thousands of dollars

•Hair-loss clients and medical clients, (cancer patients) have particular needs for hair additions

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Human Hair versus Synthetic Hair

•Pull a strand of hair from the wig or hairpiece and burn it with a match

•Human hair will:

* burn slowly

* gives off a distinctive

odorcancerfairygodmother.com/.../01/vogue-wigs.jpg

•Synthetic hair will:

* “ball up” and melt

*extinguishing itself

*burn out very quickly

*will not give off an odor

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Advantages of Human Hair Wigs

•Realistic appearance

•Greater durability

•Same styling and maintenance as natural hair

•Can be custom colored, permed

•Tolerates heat from a blow-dryer, curling iron, or hot rollers

List price $ 995.00www.qdhairbeauty.com/images/lace%20wig%209.jpg

Disadvantages of Human Hair Wigs

•May frizz or lose its curl in humid weather

•After shampooing, hair needs to be reset

•Color will fade

•Hair will break and split if mistreated

Advantages of Synthetic Wigs

•Strong and durable-Kanekalon

•Natural, lustrous look and feel

•A great value, less expensive

•Style and texture are set into the hair

•Very easy for clients to maintain

•Shampoo in cold water

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•Cut according to the latest styles

*cut, color, and texture already set

•You may need to do some detailing or custom trimming

•Colors are limitless

•Cheaper wigs are more solid in color

•High-end products mixed with many shades/highlights/lowlights for a natural effect

•Colors will not fade

Disadvantages of Synthetic Wigs

•Cannot be exposed to extreme heat

•Coloring is not recommended

•So shiny may not look natural

•If thick, will look unnatural

on a fine-haired client

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Quality and Cost

•Pros and cons, you get what you pay for

•Your success will be determined by the quality of the product itself

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The most expensive wigs are made with human hair

•European hair

*top of the line

•Hair from India

*lengths from 12”-16”

*naturally wavy

• Asia

*lengths from 12”-28”

*naturally straightwww.zarawigs.com/.../56424-lace-front-wigs.jpg

img.alibaba.com/img/buyoffer/102149322/Indian...

•Human hair mixed with animal hair

*angora, horse, yak, or sheep hair

*Yak from animals belly and is purest of whites

Great for fantasy colors-attracts the teen market, often used in theatrical or fashion settings

travelblog.paintedstork.com/image/yak.jpg www.catscostumes.net/.../catswigsfullcast03.jpg

•Human hair mixed with synthetic hair (cheapest)

•Often half and half

•Advantages and disadvantages of both

•Good option if best color and texture are chosen for client

Ask the manufacturer several important questions when selecting a wig for a client:

•Made from human hair, animal hair, mixture, or synthetic

•Is the hair colored

•Human hair grading-strength, elasticity, porosity

•Cuticle-intact

•Turned hair or Remi hair

*cuticles of all hair move in the same direction

*better condition

*easier to work with

*doesn’t tangle easily

*time consuming-increases the cost

Read Focus on

•Fallen hair

*gathered from a hairbrush

*cuticles move in different directions~tangles

*Remi refined hair-cuticle partially removed

~will not lock or mat

*Fallen hair less expensive than Remi hair

Ask manufacturer:

•Is hair tangle free?*if cuticle has been removed*cannot condition-will mat

•Condition of the hair?

•Will it match client’s hair?

•Can it be permed?

•Will it last 4-6 months-continual use?

Wigs

•Wigs are an artificial covering

for the head consisting of a

network of interwoven hair

•The client’s hair is completely

concealed

•Hair piece used to cover the

top or crown of the head

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Types of wigs

Cap wigs-constructed with elasticized mesh-fiber base

•Several sizes

•Require special fittings

•Are hand-knotted

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•Front edge resembles client’s scalp

•Wire support at the temples for a snug fit

•Hand tied to conceal the cap edge

•Side and back edges contain wire supports, elastic, and hooks for a secure fit

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Capless wigs-are machine made

•Human or artificial hair

•Wefts-long strips of hair with a threaded edge-sewn

•Ready-to-wear and less expensive

•Open points like fish net stockings

•Extremely light and

comfortable to wear

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www.ladieswigs.net/.../2009/11/monocap.jpg

•Capless wigs are healthier-allows the scalp to breathe

•Cap wig:

*best for extremely thin or no hair clients

FYI:

Lace wigs

*new

*more comfortablewww.ladycage.com/zen/images/WAVY.jpg i.ehow.com/images/GlobalPhoto/Articles/549375...

•New innovations=more comfortable

•Lace front wigs*natural-looking hairline

•Wigs are now well designed and fashionable

•Bought off-the-shelf for immediate wear

Methods of Construction

• Hand-tied or hand-knotted wigs made by *individual strands of hair

*knotting them with a needle

• Done around the front hairline and the top of the head

• Has a natural, realistic look

• Combed in almost any direction

jazzyhairfactory.co.uk/images/hand%20tied%201.jpg farm2.static.flickr.com/1167/775871787_7a25fe...

Jordon - Handtied Synthetic Wig - Estetica Designs #123

$249.00

Hand-tied synthetic wig

$105.00  

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Machine made-notice length difference

Semi-hand-tied wigs

•Combination of synthetic hair and hand-tied human hair

•Reasonably priced

•Natural appearance

•Good durability

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Machine-made wigs

•Least expensive

•Restricts other styling options

•Even after shampooing the style returns

•Wig construction will determine the direction in which you style the hair

•Machine-made wigs offer no versatility

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Taking Wig Measurements

•Use soft tape measure

•Close to the head without pressure

•Keep a written record of head measurements

* forward a copy to the wig dealer of manufacturer

•Include: hair shade, quality of hair, length of hair, and type of hair part and pattern

•Ready-to-wear

*no measuring is required

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Adjustable

Blocking the Wig

•Block is a head shaped form

•Canvas covered or Styrofoam

•Secured for fitting, cleaning, coloring, and styling

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•Pin with T-shaped pins at:

*Temples

*Above the ear

*Each corner of the nape

Putting on the Wig

•Instructing the client

*securing her hair under the cap

*flat and even

***Use hair wrap or PIN CURLS

•If wig does not fit properly

*vertical tuck and sew

•Sewing the wig to create a customized fit is a highly specialized art

Cutting the Wig

•Your goal-make the hair look more realistic

•Taper the ends

•The more solid, the more unnatural

•Same sectioning and elevations as on a real head of hair

•Cut free-form on dry hair

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•Wig is placed on block for cutting

•Comb-out and finishing touches-done on the client’s head

•Free-form cutting•Vertical sections

*create lightness

•Diagonal sections

*create rounder beveled edges

•Horizontal sections

*build heavier weight

•Cutting small sections

*observe how the hair falls

•Done on dry hair

•See how the hair will fall

•Razor, thinning shears, standard shears

*tapering methods only

Styling the Wig

•Handle gently

•Human hair, set the styling tool on low heat

•Do not pull

•Use brushes with natural boar-bristles

•Synthetic brushes that have smooth, rounded plastic teeth

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•Be gentle

•Use a block for all coloring, perming, setting, and basic cut outlining

•Finishing touches-on the client’s head

•Making a wig look believable is very challenging

•Truly an art form

•Most convincing area

*crown, part and the hairline

•General rule:

*follow the direction of the knotting and weave

Styling Tips for the Hairline

•Styling products-for color-treated hair

•Backcomb gently around the hairline

•Release the client’s hair around the hairline

•Wind test

*gently blowdry around the client’s set at cool and low

*observe how the hairline looks

•Styling:

*do not make it look perfect

*use your hands

*do not plaster the hair down

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Cleaning the Wig

•Always follow manufacturer’s instructions

•Use gentle shampoo for color-treated hair

•Avoid harsh/dandruff shampoos

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Coloring Wigs and Extensions

•Synthetic haircolors

*standardized 70 colors

•Color range from black to palest blonde

•White Yak hair add fantasy colors

•To custom-color the hair

*check with the manufacturer

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•The principles that guide the coloring of natural hair are applied to the art of coloring wigs and hair extensions

•Check to see if the cuticle is intact

•If absent

*very porous

*will react to color in an extreme manner

•Strand test

•Use semi-permanent, demipermanent, glaze, rinse, or colored mousse products

•Use permanent haircolor on human hair wigs unless hair is porous, then semi-permanent is better

•Color checks every 5-10 minutes

•Remember: hair did not come from one head

*can be unpredictable

Perming the Wigs and Hair Additions

•Human hair only

•Do not perm hair if it has been colored with a metallic dye

•Performed off of the client’s head

•Cover head form with plastic

•Pin the wig securely

*perm as you would a normal head of hair

Hairpieces

• Hairpiece gives 20-70%coverage

• Sit on top of client’s hair

• Attached by temporary methods

• Many different types:

*integration pieces, toupees,

fashion hairpieces

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Fashion hairpieces include:*falls, half wigs, wiglets, chignons,

bandeaus, cascades, ponytails, bangs, and fillers (add volume to fine hair)

•Newest fashion hairpieces simply clip on*pressure-sensitive clips, claw clips, or cpmbs

•Client’s hair prepared

*ponytail or bun

*French twist

•blended with or serve as a base

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***Temporary attachments methods include:

*interlocking combs

* flexible wire combs

* elastic

*claw clips

*Velcrosite.voguewigs.com/images/splash/hd-wrap-arou...

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***Too much hair*looks out of balance

***Ill-fitting*negative attention

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Integration Hairpieces

•Opening through base*client’s hair pulled through

•Lightweight

•Natural-looking

•Add length and volume

•Thinning hair-not total hair losswww.humanhairpieces.com/images/product_images...

Toupees

•Small wig used to cover the top and crown of the head

•Severe hair loss

•Two ways to attach:

temporary-tape or clips

semi-permanent

*weaving, tracks, adhesive, or sewing

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www.bargainlacewigs.co.uk/images/justrite.jpg

•Wearers gain confidence

•Authentic-looking hairpiece

*pay a high price for it

www.bicolhair.com/images/MenToupee.jpg

$437www.hairsetup.com/Human_Hair_Toupee.jpg

Fashion Hairpieces

•Special occasions

*fashion accessory

•Vary in size

•Attached with hairpins, clips, combs, bobby pins, or elastic

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Three attachment methods:

•Wraparound ponytail

*covers 10-20% of the head

•Useful for the client who can just get her own hair into a ponytail

•Cascade of curls is attached with combs

•Hair wrap is mounted on an elastic loop, secured to client’s own hair with hairpins

•Increasingly popular service

Hair Extensions

•Hair additions that add length, volume, texture, or color

•Can be human hair, synthetic hair, or a blend

•Wefts of hair attached one-by-one pr clip-in extensions

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Manufacturers offer training

General guidelines:•Decide-length and thickness

•Map out desired style

•Stay 1” away from:*hairline-front, sides, nape, and part

•Very thin hair-be careful base does not show through

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•Curly hair-match or add another curl pattern

•Thin hair-may not need as many

Extension methods include:*braid-and-sew*bonding (fusion bonding)*linking*shrinking

Most important approaches should be practiced in the following order: Read 1-4

Braid-and-Sew Attachment Method

•Secured by sewing

•Attached to an on-the-scalp braid (cornrow)

*track

Wefts can also be attached by creating a track, using fiber filler

*filler and hair are braided together

~underhand braiding technique

~creates longer lasting braid

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•The angle of the track will determine how the hair will fall

•Tracks: horizontal, vertical, or diagonal, or along curved lines

•Partings are determined to the style

•Size of sections by the amount of hair that will be added

•Plan so the ends are hidden

*1 inch behind the hair line

•When sewing, use only a blunt,

*custom-designed needle

*either straight or curved

•Blunt ends help avoid damage to the hair/client

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http://www.hairdobang.com/hair-extensions/braid-in-sew-in-extensions-how-totutorial

Extensions can be sewn to the track using a variety of stitches

•Lock stitch

*create a loop

*loop and wrap thread

*pull tight to form a lock stitch to secure

*weft to the track

*entire length/evenly spaced

Double lock stitch*thread is wound around the needle

twice

Overcast stitch*pass needle under both track and the

weft*bring it back*repeat the stitch*complete with a lock stitch for

security

Advantages:*if done correctly-very safe technique

*requires no special equipment

*with practice-fairly quick

Drawbacks:*too much tension-client’s hair can be

damaged*not appropriate for-extremely damaged

hair and baby-fine hair, or clients that don’t keep their scalps clean

Bonding Method

•wefts or single strands with an adhesive or a bonding agent

*adhesive applied with an applicator gun

*not the kind available in craft stores!!!

•A special tool created specifically for bonding

www.changing-styles.com/Application_Methods.html www.bjmaka.com/Upload/Pic/200985144744593.jpg

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http://www.hair-extension-specialists.co.uk/why-we-do-hair-extensions.php

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Bonding-wefts with adhesive:

•Natural hair should be at least

4 inches long

•Sits snugly on the head

•Fast to apply

•Lasts from 2 to 4 weeks

•Salon visits as often as every 2 weeks

•Can shampoo/done gently

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***Sticky backing-peel, stick to hair-lasts 4-7 days

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•Bonding procedure-section off hair at the nape

•Measure the weft against the parting ¼” to ½” from the hairline

•Lay weft on flat surface and carefully apply adhesive along the base

thehairextensionboutique.co.uk

•Use a consistent amount of adhesive; too much will ooze onto the head; too little will not adhere

•Lightly press the weft against the clean partings

•Hold 20 seconds

•Use a blow-dryer on low to medium heat to help seal the bond

•Proceed to the next section, working upward on the head until the desired length and

volume are achieved

•Avoid working too close to the crown or the partings

***Caution: do not glue the scalp!!!!

•Work 1 inch away from the hairline

•Mrs. Mandato prefers to cut the wefts into 2” sections and glue them in at a staggered (checkerboard) pattern, looks more natural and all of the weight of the weft is not pulling on the hair in the same place

aonehair.com

•Removed by dissolving the adhesive with oil or bond remover

•Same technique can be used

with loose hair or wefts cut

very small (called strand bonding)

Advantages:

•Affordable pricing

•Complete service around average haircut appointment (20 minutes)

•Shampooed gently www.ehow.com/how_4869873_hair-extension-glue-...

Drawbacks:

•Some clients may have allergic reaction to bonding adhesive

•Perform patch test

•Not appropriate for severely damaged hair or do not have enough natural hair to hide the wefts

•Cannot be exposed to oils-slide off•Should not attach wefts longer than 12” long

Fusion Method

• Bonded to the client’s own hair with a bonding material that is activated by the heat from a special tool

•Expensive-time consuming

*no uncomfortable and unattractive attachment sites

•Light and comfortable to wear

•Moves like real hair

cambridge.gumtree.com/cambridge/59/52069859.html

price$450.00 for 18" hair extensions.

loushouseofdesign.com/fusion

www.silkybeauty.com/Extension.html

•Easy to maintain

•Lasts up to 4 months

•Removal is quick and painless

•Requires certification training

***Best choice for client’s with fine, limp hair

www.delmardemos.com/fusion-hair-extensions.html

www.ehow.com/how_5416022_care-fusion-hair-ext...

•Fusion bonding procedure involves wrapping a keratin-based strip around both the client’s hair and the extension or with a special gun-applicator

•Many are pre-tipped or keratin tipped

•Natural strands along a parting are selected and then isolated with a hair shield

•Extension is positioned under the natural hair and near the base

•The heating element is applied until the bonding agent is softened

•The bond is rolled between the fingers, creating a bead that captures both

natural and the extension strand use a fusion remover when needed

(breaks down the keratin in the bonding)

Advantages:

•Client’s hair will dry more quickly (less bulk than full wefts)

•By using slightly different colors-create an illusion of depth or a highlighted effect

•Allows for style versatility

Drawbacks: time-consuming pre-tipped extension are expensive

Read rest of the paragraph

Linking

•Hook is used to pick up small amount of hair

•Link is slide on close to scalp with special tool

•Then, an extension is inserted into the link

•Link is pinched flat with pliers

•Removed with a removal tool (pliers)

•Extensions can be reused

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•Natural hair- at least 5 inches long

Advantages:*styling versatility*natural hair can be maintained

Drawbacks:*expensive*time consuming*metal links can rust

Tube Shrinking

•Client’s hair and addition strand are inserted into a tube

•Heated to shrink it

•Special tools and training

Problems can arise:

•Caused by stylist or client (not material)

Stylist*Must follow logical placement pattern*pay attention to natural growth patterns*provide complete home care instructions

Client:*follow home care instructions carefully*keep hair neat and clean*must return to salon regularly for

maintenance

Hair for sale

•Great retail product*sell themselves

•Substantial income

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Guidelines:•Identify clients needs

•Explain why it’s worthwhile*features and benefits*performance and cost

•Choose high-quality

•Work with only the best

•Believe in your recommendations

•Price services accordingly to your time, materials, and expertise

•Work with one or two companies that offer: *human and synthetic hair

*high quality products*good customer service*first rate support*education

~training~seminars~videos

•Stick with companies that stand by their products

Practice, Practice, Practice

•exciting, challenging, and lucrative areas of cosmetology

•Become skilled-practice

•Help people look good and feel good about themselves

•Great satisfaction in

*working with people who have suffered the trauma of hair loss