chapter 16 the dynamic ocean. section 16.2 waves & tides
TRANSCRIPT
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Chapter 16
The Dynamic Ocean
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Section 16.2
Waves & Tides
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Waves Wave Characteristics
16.2 Waves and Tides
• Most ocean waves obtain their energy and motion from the wind.
• The wave height is the vertical distance between the trough and crest.
• The wavelength is the horizontal distance between two successive crests or two successive troughs.
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Waves Wave Characteristics
16.2 Waves and Tides
• The wave period is the time it takes one full wave—one wavelength—to pass a fixed position.
• The height, length, and period that are eventually achieved by a wave depend on three factors: (1) wind speed, (2) length of time the wind has blown, and (3) fetch.
• Fetch is the distance that the wind has traveled across open water.
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Anatomy of a Wave
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What is the vertical distance between a trough and a crest?
A. Wave height
B. Wavelength
C. Wave speed
D. Wave period
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Most ocean waves get their energy from
A. The sun.
B. Plate movement.
C. The moon’s gravitational attraction.
D. The wind.
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Which of the following factors does NOT help determine the height, length, and period of a
wave?
A. Wind speed
B. Fetch
C. Temperature
D. How long the wind blows
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The distance that wind has traveled across open water is
A. Fetch
B. Wavelength
C. Wave height
D. Wave period
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Waves Wave Motion
16.2 Waves and Tides
• Circular orbital motion allows energy to move forward through the water while the individual water particles that transmit the wave move around in a circle.
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Waves Breaking Waves
16.2 Waves and Tides
• Changes occur as a wave moves onto shore.
• As the waves touch bottom, wave speed decreases. The decrease in wave speed results in a decrease in wavelength and an increase in wave height.
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Breaking Waves
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Energy moves through waves in a(n)
A. Convection current
B. Circular motion
C. Oscillating motion
D. Straight line
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Tides
Ocean tides result from the gravitational attraction exerted upon Earth by the moon and, to a lesser extent, by the sun.
16.2 Waves and Tides
Tides are daily changes in the elevation of the ocean surface.
Tide-Causing Forces• Gravity is the force that attracts Earth and the moon to
each other. • Inertia is the tendency of moving objects to continue in a
straight line• The force that keeps the Earth and moon from
crashing into each other.
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Tide Bulges on Earth Caused by the Moon
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The two forces that produce tides are gravity and
A. Inertia.
B. Friction.
C. Centripetal force.
D. Acceleration.
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Ocean tides result largely from the gravitational attraction of the
A. Sun.
B. Core of Earth.
C. Closest neighboring planets.
D. Moon.
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Tides Tide Cycle
16.2 Waves and Tides
• Spring tides are tides that have the greatest tidal range due to the alignment of the Earth–moon–sun system.
• Tidal range is the difference in height between successive high and low tides.
• Neap tides are tides that have the lowest tidal range, occurring near the times of the first-quarter and third-quarter phases of the moon.
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Earth–Moon–Sun Positionsand the Tides
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Tides Tidal Patterns
16.2 Waves and Tides
• Three main tidal patterns exist worldwide: diurnal tides, semidiurnal tides, and mixed tides.• A Diurnal tidal pattern has 1 high tide and
1 low tide each day.• A Semidiurnal tidal pattern has 2 high
tides and 2 low tides each day.• A Mixed tidal pattern has the same number
of tides as the semidiurnal pattern but tidal heights vary.
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Having one high tide and one low tide each day is a
A. Diurnal tidal pattern
B. Semidiurnal tidal pattern
C. Mixed tidal pattern
D. Uniurnal tidal pattern
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Large tidal ranges caused by the sun, moon and Earth
alignment areA. Neap tide
B. Spring tide
C. Diurnal tide
D. Semidiurnal tide