chapter 16 · 2009. 8. 21. · the twenties, thirties, and world war ii 1920 - 1947 an alternative...

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THE TWENTIES, THIRTIES, AND WORLD WAR II

C H A P T E R S I X T E E N

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1920 - 1947

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The decade of the twenties ushered in social changes, especially for women who now found it socially acceptable to wear makeup, cut

their hair short, smoke cigarettes, and drink alcohol.

© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

2C H A P T E R S I X T E E NTHE TWENTIES, THIRTIES,AND WORLD WAR II1920 - 1947

With these changes came radical style changes for fashionable young women called “Flappers.”



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W omen cut their hair short, with the most extreme, “ bobs” being



the most extreme “ bobs” being almost identical to those of men. A nd wore rouge, lipstick, and

eyebrow pencil.


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Skirts gradually shortened with the shortest lengths, about 14 to 16 inches from the ground, coming in the second half of the decade.



Dress Lines were straight, curves were suppressed and when belts

were worn or skirts joined to bodices, at the hip.



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Undergarments maintained this straight line.



An alternative silhouette available to women was the “Robe de Style” that was inspired by wide-skirted Spanish

styles of the early 1600’s and originated by designer Jeanne Lanvin.



To see more details about this dress, visit theJeanne Lanvin Dress Page at Antique & Vintage Dress Gallery.

Designer Gabrielle Chanel was influential in developing the simple styles of the period.



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Typical 1920’s Styles



Daytime Dress Evening Dress

New fabrics came into use: Rayon and Acetate



Pants became acceptable for women for sports and leisure time.



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As women now went swimming, instead of merely “bathing,” swim suits became

more practical and less encumbering.



Over their short hair, many women wore close-fitting cloche hats.



Some Typical Footwear



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Some Important Accessories of the Period

Jewelry Hand Bags



Stockings



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Styles had begun to change, with longer skirts, defined waistlines, and more obvious curves. By the early 30’s, those changed had occurred.



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As before, undergarments developed to support the new line.



Among the outstanding designers of the 1930’s was Madeleine Vionnet whose bias cut designs inspired

imitations at all price levels.



Elsa Schiaparelli, another important designer, was know for her dramatic flair and her use of surrealist motifs.



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Women participated in sports and in retailing. The concept of sportswear

for leisure time and informal settings began to develop.



In the 1930’s, hair lengthened and hat styles varied.



Some Typical Footwear



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Some Important Accessories of the Period

Sunglasses

Scarves



HandbagsJewelry

Movies and movie stars became a fashion influence.



Styles gradually evolved until by the end of the decade, skirts were shorter and fuller, and shoulders were square.



Early 1930’s Late 1930’s

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As before, men’s suits maintained the basic elements (jacket, vest, trousers) that differed only in subtle ways at different time periods. In

the late 1930’s, a full cut called the English Drape Suit is often seen.



One of the first styles that originated in the lower income groups and adopted by some ethnic groups was the Zoot Suit.



Men’s underwear added options such as boxer shorts,

jockey shorts and athletic shirts.



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The British heir to the throne, the Prince of Wales, was an important influence on men’s styles.




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For more casual occasions men wore sports jackets and for more formal occasions, tuxedos or dinner jackets.



Clothing for active sports and clothing for leisure activities were available for men.



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Among the popular garments for outdoors were polo coats and trench coats or warm wool jackets.



Men’s hair was short. Hats included straw boaters, derbies, and fedoras.



Examples of Typical Footwear



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Some Popular Accessories For Men

Bow Ties HandkerchiefsNeck Ties



Cuff LinksWrist Watches

Tie Clips

Clothes, now more suitable for children, often reflected styles for adults.



Young boys wore knickers. Older boys wore suits like

those of adult men.



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When World War II began, it limited supplies of silk. Shoes containing rubber and leather were rationed.

Governmental regulations restricted the amount of fabric used in men’s and women’s garments.



Click image to rotate dress 360°

Restrictions effectively froze the style lines for the duration of the war.



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Paris was cut off from America during the war. As a result the fashion press publicized American designers who continued to be an important

factor in fashion even after the war.

Norman Norell

Ch l J

Hattie Carnegie



Claire McCardell

Pauline TrigereCharles James

For Further Study

Museum And Collection Web Sites With Photographs Of Period Clothing

Texas Fashion Collection http://web2.unt.edu/tfc_test/main/Index.htmBata Shoe Museum http://www.batashoemuseum.ca/collectindex.htmlBath Museum. Interesting feature of “the dress of the year.” http://www.museumofcostume.co.ukhttp://dept.kent.edu/museum/costume/bonc/3timesearch/tstwentieth/20.htmlPictures from Beverly Berks Couture Collection which has extensive collection of images of garments and

accessories. http://www.camrax.comPhiladelphia Museum www.philamuseum.orgMetropolitan Museum of Art: Costume Institute found at www.metmuseum.org/works_of_art/collection.aspCornell University Costume Collection http://char.txa.cornell.edu/treasures/index.htmlhttp://dept.kent.edu/museum/costume/bonc/3timesearch/tstwentieth/1930-1946/1930-1946.html



p // p / / / / / / 9 9 / 9 9Drexel University Costume Gallery http://digimuse.cis.drexel.edu/home.html

Fashion Designershttp://womenshistory.about.com/library/bio/blbio_chanel_coco.htmhttp://www.coololdstuff.com/coco.htmlhttp://www.exclusive-life.de/eng/Articles/Craft/fabrics_leather/Madeleine-Vionnet/Vionnet_eng.htmhttp://www.schiaparelli.com/http://www.dilpreetbawa.com/historyofashion/schiaparelli.htmlhttp://www.dilpreetbawa.com/historyofashion/fashionframe.html (Look up designers such as Adrian,

Chanel, Vionnet, Schiaparelli.)

For Further Study

Wartime Restrictionshttp://home.cfl.rr.com/featherweight/board.htmhttp://www.fabrics.net/joan702.asphttp://www.livinghistoryfarm.org/farminginthe40s/life_08.html

Zoot Suitshttp://invention.smithsonian.org/centerpieces/whole_cloth/u7sf/u7materials/cosgrove.html

Books With Drawings Showing Construction Of Historic ClothingArnold, J. 1977. Patterns of Fashion. Vol. 2: 1860-1940. New York: Drama Book Specialists.Bradfield, N. 1997. Costume in Detail. New York: Costume and Fashion Press.



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Image Credits

Photo of the Chrysler Building, Courtesy www.rumbugger.co.uk

Photo of Flapper, http://classes.berklee.edu/llanday/fall01/jazzage/crowdweb/pages/flapper.htm

Joan Crawford in Our Dancing Daughters 1928, http://classes.berklee.edu/llanday/fall01/jazzage/film/index.html

Man seated at piano, surrounded by group of glamorous girls, Washington, D.C., October 1923, Library of Congress, LC-USZ62-42063

Fashion Plate from Très Parisien, Volume 3, 1915, plate 16

Woman in undergarments, ca. 1921, New York Public Library Digital Image Collection

Photo of c. Winter 1926/27 Numbered Jeanne Lanvin, Paris, Courtesy www.antiquedress.com

Photo of Gabrielle Chanel, Courtesy www.museudelperfum.com

L'Art da la Mode, 1927

Fashion Plate from Très Parisien, Volume 3, 1915, Plate 7

Fashion Plate from Très Parisien, Volume 3, 1915, Plate 11

Advertisements for Rayon Stockings, Everyday Fashions of the Twenties As Pictured in Sears and Other Catalogs, Dover, 1981



Advertisements for Rayon Stockings, Everyday Fashions of the Twenties As Pictured in Sears and Other Catalogs, Dover, 1981

Colorful lounging pajamas c. 1929, Courtesy, Blending Hemingway Company

Woman in Cloche Hat, Courtesy www.southernprints.co.uk

Beige Leather Pumps, Courtesy, www.vintagemartini.com

Aqua Marbled Evening Sandals, Courtesy, www.vintagemartini.com

Vintage Patterned Stockings Item# FD-2319, Courtesy www.fashiondig.com

Flapper Stockings Item# FD-4401, Courtesy www.fashiondig.com

c. 1920 Stockings Item# FD-3540, Courtesy www.fashiondig.com

Deco Diamond Platinum Watch Item# FD-940, Courtesy www.fashiondig.com

Art Deco Necklace, From the inventory of Isadora's Antique Clothing and Estate Jewelry, Seattle, WA, www.isadoras.com

Antique 1920's Marcasite Earrings, From the inventory of Isadora's Antique Clothing and Estate Jewelry, Seattle, WA, www.isadoras.com

Image Credits Velvet and Steel Beaded Handbag, circa 1920, Courtesy www.ewolfs.com

Art Deco Steel Beaded Handbag, France, 1920, Courtesy www.ewolfs.com

Wall Street 1929, Courtesy, Bilan du Siècle - C'est arrivé en ce jour

High necks before and after dinner, Vogue, October 1, 1933, pg 51

The triumph of the eggshell in winter woolens, Vogue, August 1, 1931

Merry Widow Revival, Vogue, June 1, 1937

Illustrations of Sportswear, Vogue, November 15, 1937 pg 37

Doris Blumenfeld, c. early 1930s, Courtesy demode.tweedlebop.com

1940's Hairstyle, Courtesy www.hairrific.com

1930's Movie Star Dark Navy Felt Hat, Courtesy www.antiquedress.com

c. 1930's New York Creation Black Felt Cutwork Hat , Courtesy www.antiquedress.com

c. late 1930's/early 1940's Gray Felt Doll Top Hat , Courtesy www.antiquedress.com



c. 1930's Peck & Peck Wool Checked Hat, Courtesy www.antiquedress.com

Brown Satin Evening Sandals, Courtesy, www.vintagemartini.com

Brown Suede And Leather Oxfords, Courtesy, www.vintagemartini.com

Brown Alligator Platforms, Courtesy, www.vintagemartini.com

Schiaparelli Festoon Necklace and Pendant Earrings, Courtesy, www.doylenewyork.com

1930's blue w/silver glitter plastic, Courtesy, www.klasik.org

1930's translucent amber/tort plastic frame, Courtesy, www.klasik.org

1940'S Brown Alligator Purse, Courtesy, www.vintagemartini.com

Silk Scarf w/ Art Deco/Geometric Pattern, Courtesy, www.easystreetantiques.com

Betty Davis Film Poster, The Girl From 10th Avenue (1935), Courtesy, www.reelclassics.com

Image Credits The Basics of Dark Dress, Vogue, May 1, 1939 pg 103

Man in Grey Suit, Chicago Woolen Mills Catalog 1937

MAN IN ZOOT-SUIT a. 1943, Courtesy, www.museum.state.il.us

Vee Line Shirts and Shorts Advertisement 1938, Everyday Fashions of the Thirties, As Pictured in Sears Catalogs, pg 111, Dover 1986

Edward, Prince of Wales, standing with a man wearing a uniform, Library of Congress, http://memory.loc.gov/ndlpcoop/ichicdn/n0784/n078441.jpg

The Prince of Wales visits TR's grave / [International Film Service Co.], Library of Congress Motion Picture, Broadcasting and Recording Sound Division, at Library of Congress Motion Pictures

Sportcoat Advertisement 1931, Everyday Fashions of the Thirties as Pictured in Sears Catalogs, pg 35, Dover 1986

Man in Tuxedo, Chicago Woolen Mills Catalog 1937

Man in Polo Overcoats, Chicago Woolen Mills Catalog 1937

Man in Trench coat, "Chicago Woolen Mills Catalog 1937

Vintage Ties, Courtesy www.ballyhoovintage.com



Adjustable Rust & Tan Bow Tie, Courtesy, www.vintagevoola.com

1930's Period Wristwatch, Used by permission through , www.boomertime.com

1930's Vintage Cufflinks, Courtesy, www.isadoras.com

Men's Monogrammed Cotton Handkerchiefs, Courtesy, www.jr-designs.com

1930's Sedan Tie Clip, Courtesy, www.arteauto.com

Children attend Houdini expose of fraudulent mediums, 1925, Library of Congress, LC-USZ62-112425 DLC

Photo of Young Men, from the Authors collection.

"Chippers." Women war workers of Marinship Corp., 1942. 86-WWT-85-16, National Archives and Records Administration

Diagram of New L-85 Order Clarifies the Fundamental Changes, Women's Wear Daily, Monday, June 7, 1942

c. 1940's ADRIAN Perfect Gray Flannel Suit, Courtesy, www.antiquedress.com

New Tweeds, Vogue, December 1942, page 66.

chapter 16 · 2009. 8. 21. · the twenties, thirties, and world war ii 1920 - 1947 an alternative...

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