Wing Span:55in/1397mm; Prop:14*7

Wing area:41.42sq.dm; Radio:4channels 4sevors;

Length:51.7in/11346mm; Flying Weight:2000-2100g;

Gas & electric RC model; Motor suggestion:Reaper GR-45

GR-60 ON 4S outrunner motor

CAUTION : this plane is not a toy and should be kept away children under 16 years of age! Before use,please carefully read this manual. ● First-time builders should seek advice from people having building experience

in order to assemble the model correctly and to produce its

Performance to full extent. ● Assemble this kit only in places out of children’s reach!

● Take enough safety percautions prior to operating this model.

You are responsible for this model’s assembly and safe operation!

● Always keep this instruction manual ready at hand for quick reference,even

after completing the assembly.

Install the wheels onto the axles and secure with the wheel collars, as shown.

Slide one wheel/axle assembly into a wheel pant, and install the wheel assembly

on the landing gear leg. Tighten the locknut as shown to secure the assembly onto the gear leg. Repeat for other side.

Attach the gear to the fuselage with short 3mm screws, use loctite. Install gear cover plate as shown. We have

used clear tape in this photo, but thick CA or epoxy glue works well.

Measure back 2.25” from the hinge line on the bottom of the rudder. This is where we will install the tiller guide for the tailwheel. Make a hole in this location (using a 1/16” drill bit or the end of one of the wire pushrods in your kit) and glue the tailwheel tiller guide as shown

with medium or thick CA.

Install tail wheel as shown. Use two wood screws to secure bracket to fuselage. Remove the set screws in the tailwheel assembly, apply loctite and re-tighten.

Remove a square or two of covering on the bottom of the fuselage behind the

wing as shown, for cooling.

Remove covering as shown from horizontal stabilizer opening and rudder pull-pull wire slot.

Remove covering from the elevator servo opening on the left side of the fuselage as shown.

Remove the covering over the wing spar tube hole, the wing bolt hole, and the other holes in the front of the fuselage as shown.

Insert the horizontal stabilizer into its slot. Do not glue yet.

When stabilizer is centered and aligned, drip Thin CA glue onto the stab-to-fuselage joint

top and bottom. NOTE: We do not remove any covering form the horizontal stabilizer. This keeps the stabilizer strong, and thin CA makes an excellent joint to covering

material. If your stab joint is not tight enough for thin CA glue, or if you have to trim the

opening to align the stab, you can use thick CA glue as well.

Note – The Edge uses a single HS-225MG or HS-5245MG servo to activate the elevator.

If you use an extremely powerful motor/battery combination over 1100W, you may want a second elevator servo. The mounting location for a second elevator servo is installed

into the airplane on the other side of the fuselage, and the hardware is included.

NOTE: The elevator joiner is only used with a single elevator servo. Dual elevator servo installations do not use the joiner.

Remove the covering from the inner hinge area of each elevator as shown. There is a loose balsa filler piece under the covering.Remove it as shown, opening

up the elevator joiner slot in both of the elevators. Locate one control horn and modify it as shown to fit in the left elevator. We used a small file, a Dremel tool

also works well.

Use a generous amount of medium or thick CA glue to install both the joiner and

the elevator control horn into the left elevator as shown.

Apply a generous amount of medium or thick CA glue into the joiner slot on the right elevator and install onto the horizontal stab, gluing the hinges with thin CA.

Assemble elevator pushrod as shown. Use thin CA on the ball-link to pushrod

joint after installation to lock the ball-link onto the pushrod permanently.

Install the pushrod connectors onto the servo arms as shown. Tighten the nuts

just to a snug fit – the connector must be able to rotate after installation. Use medium CA glue on the nut to keep the connector from falling off due to

vibration.

Mount elevator servo as shown, attach the pushrod to the elevator horn with a 2mm screws, washer, and nut. Use medium CA glue to lock the nut onto the

2mm bolt to keep the screw from coming loose due to vibration. Tighten the pushrod connector with a 1.5mm hex wrench.

The rudder pull-pull cables are assembled as shown in the above diagram.

Assemble the pull-pull wires onto the rudder horn as shown, double-looping the

wire through the brass crimp sleeve before crimping. Crimp the brass crimp sleeve tightly with pliers and apply a drop of thin CA to the crimp. Be SURE to

use medium or thick CA to lock the 2mm nuts on the rudder control horn. Feed the wires into the fuselage slots and forward to the front of the fuselage. Cross

the wires once so they make an X inside the fuselage.

Mount the rudder servo and assemble the connectors onto the rudder servo horn as shown. Assemble the front ends of the pull-pull cables as shown, double looping the wire through the crimp sleeve. Adjust your pull-pull cables to be snug, with no sag, but not

too tight. “Banjo-string-tight” pull-pull cables only sap the power from your rudder servo and cause poor handling. Just snug is all you need.

Use the X-mount for your motor to mark the firewall for drilling. Drill the 4 mounting holes. The firewall of the Edge is arranged to allow the widest possible selection of motors to fit. Extra space has been provided for long motors and long prop adaptors. For this reason, if you motor is compact (like the Torque 4014 or Reaper GR-45 or 60) you will need to supply spacers to extend the motor forward as shown. Mount your ESC to the side of the motor-mounting box.

The cowl is mounted onto the fuselage with 4 wood screws. These screws go into the small plywood squares on the front inside of the fuselage. The following procedure is helpful to be sure the wood screws hit the plywood squares. Install the canopy hatch (if the canopy hatch is not installed when you fit the cowl, it may be impossible to fit the canopy hatch after the cowl is installed!).

Tape small pieces of paper over the plywood cowl-mounting tabs as shown. Install the cowl and align. Use the small pieces of paper as guides to make holes in the cowl and install the wood screws. Remove the cowl and screws and soak the plywood mounting tabs in thin CA glue. This will strengthen the mounting tabs. Re-install the screws.

On the bottom of the wings, locate the servo cutout and aileron control horn slot. Remove the covering over both. Glue the horn into the slot with a generous amount of medium or thick CA. Use the string in the wing to pull the servo wire through the wing.

Assemble the aileron pushrods exactly as you did the elevator pushrod. Assemble the pushrod connectors onto the servo arm and install the pushrod as shown. Be sure to use medium CA glue to lock the 2mm nut that holes the ball link onto the control horn. Repeat for other wing. Mount the wings to the fuselage using the black nylon thumbscrews.

Locate the balsa receiver mount marked “Rx”. You can mount your receiver to this mount with Velcro and use CA glue to mount the balsa to the airframe. Also, since the Edge has a very long battery tray, you will also likely have plenty of room on the tray to mount your receiver.

Apply one side of the self-adhesive Velcro tape to the battery tray, the other to your battery. Use the Velcro strap as a “seatbelt” to hold your battery in position. Always make sure your

battery is firmly strapped down before flight.

Balancing – Balance your Edge 108mm behind the leading edge of the wing where the wing meets the fuselage. Move the flight battery to balance as necessary.

Remember – It is much more important to have a properly balanced airplane than to save one ounce of total weight. The Edge carries additional weight very well because of its superior aerodynamic design, and noseweight can always be removed again if desired. After you have flown several flights, you can tune your CG to suit your personal flying preferences.

When trimming your CG, keep in mind that a “neutral” CG (one with which you can roll the airplane inverted and the airplane neither climbs nor dives) is good for 3D aerobatics, but a more forward CG (one with which you must hold some “down” elevator to keep the airplane flying straight while inverted) is often better for precision flight and is much easier to land gracefully.

When you experiment with CG location, move the CG only small amounts, 1/8 inch or so, at a time. A small change in CG can have a large affect on flight characteristics.

Control Throws -Throws are given both in degrees and in millimeters, measured at the end of the surface (where the throw is greatest)

Ailerons- Low Rate 24 degrees / 35mm of throw High Rate 45 degrees / 70mm

30% exponential 70% exponential

Elevator- Low Rate 17 degrees / 40mm of throw High Rate Maximum possible throw, at least 45

30% exponential degrees 70% exponential

Rudder- High Rate Maximum possible throw 85% exponential

We typically use only high rate for the rudder, the high exponential value will help to smooth out rudder inputs during hover and harrier. Make sure your high rate elevator throw is at least 45 degrees for proper 3D performance. If using 2 elevator servos, make sure your elevators move together in perfect synchronization, and have the exact same total throw.

Test your power system in a safe manner on the ground before ever attempting to fly your aircraft. Range check your radio system according to manufacturer’s instructions.

Make your first flight with the controls set on low rates. During the trimming phase, we recommend landing with some throttle, and not attempting to “dead stick” the airplane. This may mean you need to time your flights and keep them a bit shorter than usual. After your first flights, check all control connections and motor and prop mounts for tightness.

Finished