00 A P R I L 2015 travel+le isure travel+le isure A P R I L 2015 00

In Porto, old World icons, such as the baroque Torre dos Clérigos bell tower that

helped the city earn UNESCO status, contrast with contemporary buildings by Pritzker

Prize–winning architects. In Lisbon's Chiado, fashionable boutiques and dining add

contemporary cool to its heritage avenues.

CarmenO’s WaySwaying into the early hours of the morning to the strains of Fado filling a courtyard

and your heart, driving along the azure Atlantic ocean in Algarve, eating churros amidst ruins and drinking your way through Duoro, Portugal spoils you for life. By Ruchira Bose

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m jet-lagged beyond belief. I left home at 10.30 pm yesterday after a full day at work, travelled for over 14 hours, albeit in great comfort in my fully-flat business class bed aboard Turkish Airlines; arrived in Lisbon, was then whisked away to Sintra where I checked in at the Penha Longa Resort by Ritz Carlton. This was followed

by a two-hour ride through traffic back to Lisbon's Alfama district for the one-night-only festival of Fado music. It’s now almost midnight. I’m with a motley group of travellers, being guided by Luis Sousa who owns one of the country's leading luxury tour companies called Mr Travel Portugal and looks uncannily like a Greek movie star (complete with the charming cleft chin and broad shoulders). I hardly know the other travellers, but it’s clear to me very early on, as we hobble along like ducklings behind Luis around the busy winding cobbled paths of Alfama, that we are going to be a crazy bunch of men and women. We all love wine, partying in a new city, exchanging stories, sharing laughter and soaking up a country we’ve never been to. The night was magical. It didn’t matter how tired we were. Alfama was dressed in festive buntings like a flower child wears strands of beaded necklaces. It was hosting a night marathon at the same time as the Fado festival. There were singers with guitars and cellos in balconies overlooking the streets, tables that spilled over courtyards and strains of song that came from deep within the bars of Alfama and made their way into our hearts. The youngest in our group, the most free-spirited of us all picked up an endearment along the way, “Carmino!” and happily shouted this out whenever she wanted to call us sweetly, show her appreciation to the singers on the stage or even as an expression of exclamation at how good life was throughout this journey through Portugal.

At some point in the evening, we were famished and found most kitchens had closed, but a small family-run place was still serving beer and delicious Bifanas. If you love sandwiches, this may well start figuring in your top 10. It’s a simple slice of pork steak lightly sautéed with garlic, so that the meat is warm and juicy and served in a bread roll that is distinctly crusty, puffy and floury. That night, eight people who were relatively strangers to each other till then forged the most natural and unpretentious friendships that only good-humoured destinations bring about.

Over the next ten days or so, we travelled across Sintra’s medieval castles and palaces, through its winding roads, past beautiful homes dressed in climbing rose trellises and night jasmine vines; wandered the markets in the old city buying dainty blue handcrafted ceramic ware and drank carafes of wine in cafes where once English poets penned verses. Only

a1. Rolling golf course dunes at Penha Longa; 2. the colourful rooftops of Alfama; 3. castelo Silves; 4. the town of vilamoura; 5&6. vineyards along the river Duoro, as the river goes deeper into the mountains; 7. Duquesa beach on a sunny day.

20-odd minutes inland, Sintra is a town rich with grandiose castles, a mountainous landscape and acres of natural beauty that fully warrant its classification as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The most mesmerizing former royal residence is the Pena National Palace – a monument resembling a whimsical fairy tale castle seemingly erected straight from the the mind of Walt Disney. Golf enthusiasts gather year-round at the superb 18-hole golf club – one of the best in the country – of the 545-acre Pengha Longa Resort. Amenities here include, lush gardens, exemplary spa services and a global collection of fine dining options – two star Michelin restaurant Arola offers a lofty space and Portuguese cuisine with a twist.

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With a changing landcape as diverse as its regional cuisine and the emergence of neW high-end properties and activities, a select number of

portugal’s coastal toWns are at long last becoming luxury destinations set to rival the most opulent offerings of italy, spain and france.

Pena Palace stands atop the hill in Sintra. Opposite: Shopper's paradise, baixa v

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200-year-old opera house, Teatro Nacional de Sao Carlos harmoniously neighbours vintage-chic concept shops like the newly-opened Chiado Factory. The culinary wunderkind of the momen is Jose Avillez, a talented young chef whose quick rise to fame whose quick rise to fame and impressive collection of Chiado eateries include Cantinho do Avillez (Known for its hearty regional fare), the recently inaugurated gourmet Mini Bar Teatro and the crowning jewel of his epicurean empire; Michelin-starred Belcanto.

The majestic Praca do Comercio – alternately called Terreiro do Paco, is the city’s classically columned waterfront square (renovated in 2012) usually brimming with activity from the adjacent shopping street Rua Augusta, the nearby Rossio Square (in the heart of Lisbon), the iconic yellow trams making their way down from surrounding hills and the Ribeira das Naus, the busy promenade that lines the Tagus River. A little further east, past Cais do Sodre – a seedy-turned-hip nightlife district – a short coastal trip by train or by car offers you a different side of the Tagus: the beautiful towns of coastal Portugal.

Casçais, a one-time fishing village blessed with pristine, sandy beaches, was reinvented as a sophisticated jetsetter’s playground once the royal family christened it their official summer residence in the late 1800s. Largo de Camoes, a quaint square at the heart of the old town centre, is surrounded by a myriad of brightly-coloured shops, cafes and restaurants with uniquely-tiled floors resembling cascading waves. The Hemingway Restaurant, located in the harbour, serves wonderfully creative cuisine and mixed drinks in a decidedly eclectic setting. A pleasant walk along the promenade that lines the Estoril coast brings visitors to Praia do Guincho, a beach with waves so powerful, it has long been considered Portugal’s surfers paradise.

Lovers of historical intrigue would enjoy a visit (and/or stay) to the Hotel Palacio across the bay in neighbouring Estoril, a still ritzy hotel frequented by James Bond author Ian Fleming (during his WW2 years as a naval officer) and later immortalised in the 1964 Bond classic, On Her Majesty’s Secret Service. Concierge Jose Diogo, whose teenaged cameo (in the film) made him a local celebrity in his own right, is one of a handful of loyal employees still working at the landmark hotel. Indeed, a 007 martini at the English-ispired bar is like traveling back to a more glamorous era.

The Portuguese way of life—deeply rooted in tradition and a strong desire for innovation – rewards the discerning visitor with a taste of aristocratic living expertly combined with the very best in contemporary creature comforts. At the end of the trip, as we went our separate ways, we felt the landscapes and experiences of Portugal will be a part of our collective stories and friendship for many years to come. It's just such a place. And we were just such people!

OTHER HIGHLIGHTSWay up in the Alfama, the Castelo Sao Jorge is a must see (and do). This castle was really the beginning of Lisbon. The first king, Afonso Henriques captured this hilltop fortress from the Moors in the 12th century. The site was occupied by Romans, Visigoths, then Moors.

In the 14th century, it became the Royal Palace.You can walk the pathways, explore the castle,and enjoy the fantastic views of downtown Lisbon, the Tagus River, and the April 25th Bridge.

Sit and enjoy a cool drink at one of the stands or have lunch at the Casa Do Leao. Watch the peahens and pigeons wander the grounds. Don't neglect the rest of the Alfama after seeing the castle and if you are happily weary after this adventure just take the trolley down to the Praca do Commercio.

EAT AT DOC BY RUI PAULABetween Pinhão and Peso da Régua, this is a winemakers’ hot spot for celebrated modern cooking. The Douro wine list is impressive. Arrive by river if you want—there’s a boat dock. DOC established Chef Rui Paula’s reputation not only for quality, but also as an inventive chef whose creations are beautiful without being outlandish, and are also very firmly rooted in the Douro and in Portugal, using local ingredients, but often presenting them in new ways. LISBON'S BEST FOOD MARKETAcross the street from the Cais do Sodré train station, the 'river market' is Lisbon’s preeminent food bazaar. Beneath the 1930s dome, vendors sell fresh seafood, meat, fruit, piri-piri peppers, and flowers. The second floor houses a cultural center where travellers can pick up crafts, port wine, and local honey. On weekends, the central stage hosts local bands.

SANTINI’S ICE CREAMThe Santini family has been in the ice cream business since 1907 when their grandfather had an ice cream parlor in Vienna with links to the Austrian imperial household. Attilo Santini Jr began his business in 1949. Santini’s royal links are not just with the Portuguese royal family. In the parlour and on their website, there are photos, press clippings and certificates all showing how Santini ice cream has infiltrated the lives and social events of Europe’s royal families. The gelato here is 100% natural without additives of any type, the flavours change according to season, there’s always a very long queue at both outlets in Portugal (one is in Casçais, the other in Lisbon)

LX FACTORYOnce a textile mill, the block-long LX Factory (Rua Rodrigues Faria 103) is now a goldmine for irreverent art. In a tucked away corner of Lisbon, this bustling new design and arts district is a cornerstone. Set on movie-set looking ground of an old manufacturing district, hang out amid the design firms, production studios, restaurants and shops — all having a design-centered focus. The cool thing is they didn’t gloss it up, but kept the place to its core history, with wonderful decay and industrial bones still in place.

Do see the1300 Taberna restaurant, set in beautiful space with factory skylights and extremely nice people and, the Ler Devagar bookstore — often cited as one of the most beautiful bookstores in the world. It is set amidst an old two-storey printing plant, with seats, racks and even a cafe nestled amidst the printing units, catwalks and folders.

Also, there’s a restaurant around the corner owned by Tito Paris, who plays a cool Cape Verde-an style of songs and fados.+

provides an ideal gateway to neighbouring towns and wine regions. With a changing landcape as diverse as its regional cuisine and the emergence of new high-end properties and activities, a select number of Portugal’s coastal towns are at long last becoming luxury destinations set to rival the most opulent offerings of Italy, Spain and France.

Though many European capitals demonstrate their progress through the construction of modern edifices and artwork, Lisbon prefers to meticulously renovate the remaining evidence of its prosperous glory years; ornate palaces and historic homes have been skillfully transformed into five star hotels and event venues. The Pestana Palace, the once regal home of a 19th century Marquis, is today a national monument boasting four extravagant suites decorated with authentic period furnishings, magnificent views of the Tagus River and an award-winning spa. In 1883, the Count of Valencas painstakingly transformed his home into an exquisite palace.

The elegant, tree-lined Avenida da Liberdade features the world’s finest luxury fashion brands rubbing elbows with a curiously complementary mix of the old and the new. Classic monuments paying homage to Portugal’s most important personalities stand alongside the city’s most contemporary dwellings. At the avenue’s base is the Praca Marques De Pombal, an impressive square that complements the well-manicured Eduardo VII Park and just a short distance from the modern comforts of the internationally recognised Four Seasons Ritz Hotel that has a running track on its rooftop with breakthatking views and a truly royal-style spa.

Chiado, one of Lisbon’s most upscale areas, is currently enjoying a cultural and gastronomic rebirth. Lisbon’s

A few days later we drove down to Algarve, stayed at an innovative and award-winning property called the Martinhal Beach Resort in Sagres. Created by the very elegant and talented Chitra Stern, the resort is a family-focused, glass-enhanced hideaway with a beach and a national park, based on the concept of barefoot luxury at its heart. The contemporary duplex style villas with gorgeous ocean views are at once a place you want to return with friends, just as they are a place perfect for large families, too. Each villa has a living room, balconies, gardens out front, and kitchens that are stocked with essentials and groceries before you arrive. The property has restaurants, child-minding services and multiple pools and play areas. Sans our partners and loved ones, we gathered in one villa (like you’d go across to a friend’s home) and decided to enjoy an evening listening to music, debating the merits of Mumbai vs Delhi, sharing stories and laughter and (as more wine was drunk) we toyed with the idea of playing Truth Or Dare. Fortunately for others, we didn’t.

From the pure azure Atlantic coast to the Duoro, our colourful group drove down, chasing the river, singing songs at the top of our voices much tolerated by our drivers who happened to have the same name: Miguel – who thereafter were given distinguishing titles based on their personality: 'Daddy' Miguel and 'Sexy' Miguel. Both were incredibly warm, cheerful and fountains of local knowledge. It was the latter that told me about the boho luxe area of Alcantara in Lisbon.

As one of the oldest cities in Europe, Lisbon has a rich, intriguing history as evidenced by its well-kept architecture and monuments adorning the city. The vibrant capital also v

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The marina at Casçais