CARMENERE The lost forgotten variety rediscover in Chile

Rodrigo Plass – Prowein 2010

• Carmenere has various synonyms, including Grande Vidure, Carmenelle, Cabernelle, Grand Carmenet & Carbouet

• Widely cultivated in the Medoc in the early 18th century and with Cabernet Franc established the reputation of its best properties. (J.Robinson-Daurel)

• After phylloxera (mid 1800s) Cabernet S & Merlot became Medoc favourites: productivity & yield consistency.

• Never replanted in Bordeaux after phylloxera due to:– Shatter problems (coulure) and associated low

yields.- Poor option for French vigneron.

THE STORY OF CARMENERE

THE STORY OF CARMENERE

• Viala and Vermorel (Ampèlographie- 1901, France) distinguished Carmenére as a distinct grape from Cabernet Franc.

• Of the Cabernet Sauvignon / Merlot family according to DNA analysis. (UC Davis 1990s)

- Italy: North eastern wine regions. (Veneto, Friuli) Not a DOC variety, sold as Cab.Franc. Estimated vineyard surface 4.200 has

- California: UC Davis genetic detective team C. Meredith has identified

Carmenère. No recorded vineyards.

- Bordeaux. 15 has reported. Chateaux Verdus claims blend with 1% Carmenère

CARMENERE IN THE WORLD

• Original French cuttings brought to Chile during 1850-1870. At the time European wines were identified by regions, not by grape varieties.

• Grown in Chile as an unknown variety field-mixed with Merlot.– Warmer and drier climate than France– Longer hang time of fruit (120-130 days)

IDENTIFICATION IN CHILE

• In 1991 World demand of Merlot prompted Chilean producers to expand using field selection material of what was thought Merlot, later identified as Carmenère.

• Mr. Claude Valat, a French ampelographer recognized that some “Merlot” vineyards in Chile were not true Merlot.

IDENTIFICATION IN CHILE

• In 1994 French ampelographer J.M.Boursiquot identified “Chilean Merlot” as Carmenere.

• In 1997 Carmenere identification was confirmed by DNA profiling, using SSR DNA markers. (INIA/UC-Davis)

• In 1998, the Chilean Agriculture Department recognized Carmenère as an official variety.

IDENTIFICATION IN CHILE

CARMENERE / MERLOT

Carmenere Merlot

MERLOT CARMENERE

Ripening Earliest ripenning 4-5 weeks later than Merlotof Cabernet Family

Pruning Spur or cane Must be cane pruned

Vigour Low to High Medium to very high

Shatter Problems Low Low to High

Berry Shape Spherical and large Spherical and mediumLarger than Cabernet Deep blue colourReddish to violet Pulpy and crunchy withWhite juicy berry white juice.

VITICULTURAL DIFFERENCES

Young Leaves Dark Green Yellowish Green

Fall Colours Yellow Reddish

Management Overexposed clusters to sun Suceptible to shatter Susceptible to vine stress and root infestationSusceptible to stress on sandy soils

MERLOT CARMENERE

VITICULTURAL DIFFERENCES

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VITICULTURAL DIFFERENCES: THE LEAVES

MERLOT

Weedy to herbaceous noteslike peas and artichocke

Herbaceous flavors

Red Berry-Black PepperFloral, red cherry and red berryred pepper and herbal notesArtificial fruit candy spectrum

Blackberry-blueberryBlack cherry, blackberry andChocolate-coffee-soy sauce dried fruits.

Jammy-pruney-charcoalBlack olive and pruney notes.Flabby mouth feel

CARMENERE MERLOT

Underripe Green Pepper Weedy to herbaceous notesCelery like peas and artichockeHerbaceous flavors

J ust Ripe Red Berry-Black Pepper Floral, red cherry and red berryred pepper and herbal notes Artificial fruit candy spectrum

Ripe Blackberry-blueberry Black cherry, blackberry andChocolate-coffee-soy sauce dried fruits.

Overipe J ammy-pruney-charcoal Black olive and pruney notes.

AROMAS AND FLAVOURS

Source: SAG, Chile.

Cabernet Sauvignon 35.967 45,9%Pais 15.180 19,4%Merlot 12.824 16,4%Carmenère 4.718 6,0%Tintoreras 2.520 3,2%Syrah 2.309 2,9%Pinot Noir 1.613 2,1%Malbec 929 1,2%Other reds 2.299 2,9%

Total 78.359 100,0%

RED VARIETIES PLANTED IN CHILE IN HAS (2000)

Source: SAG, Chile.

Cabernet Sauvignon 38.806 51,2%Merlot 9.656 12,7%Carmenère 8.249 10,9%Tintoreras 3.476 4,6%Syrah 5.391 7,1%Pinot Noir 2.598 3,4%Malbec 1.148 1,5%Other reds 6.483 8,6%

Total 75.807 100,0%

RED VARIETIES PLANTED IN CHILE IN HAS (2008)

Don Maximiano Estate

Long cool growing seasonsEarly Spring and late fall

Very little threat of rainPlenty of sunshine

Extended hang time

Proper ripening

Mount Aconcagua

CARMENERE IN THE VALLE DE ACONCAGUA

Longer hang time•Higher sugar (alcohol and body)•Higher colour intensity

CARMENERE IN THE VALLE DE ACONCAGUA: SOIL AND CLIMATE

• Picking dates are very different between Merlot and CarmenèreCarmenère is picked 3-4 weeks later

Picking decisions based on flavour and vineyard aspect.

• Tannins ripen before flavour• Harvest typically after Cabernet

CARMENERE IN THE VALLE DE ACONCAGUA: PICKING DATE

• Green flavours cannot be managed during fermentation but in the vineyard. Experimentation with microoxidation has been done

French Oak

• More subtle toasty characters• Gives more structure and body

May be overwhelmed by thestrong varietal characteristicsof Carmenère

WINE MAKING: BARREL AGEING, AMERICAN OR FRENCH?

American Oak

• Emblematic grape variety for Chile?

• Research in viticulture, winemaking & marketing.

• Carmenère sales have taken off!

• Industry expanded Carmenère & Merlot vineyards as clearly different varieties.

• Carmenère wines available at different price points pure or as blending component top Cabernet Sauvignon blends .

CARMENERE EVOLUTION

1. In Viticulture– Maximize Chilean climatic advantages

to benefit from unique long and dry season particularly in the Valle de Aconcagua.

– Design more efficient pruning systems and spring treatments to control shattering and yield.

– Canopy management for optimal ripeness and picking time.

CHALLENGES

2. To became a unique wine from Chile reflecting its terroir and tipicity.

3. To gain consumer appeal to become a “ world class” variety.

CHALLENGES

Carmenere gives Chile the opportunity to set the standard for world class wines of this variety.

ERRAZURIZ CARMENERE WINES

KAI: THE BEST CARMENERE BASE WINE

• First Vintage 2005, released in 2007

• KAI means plant, and is the best Carmenère based wine produced by Viña Errázuriz.

• The wine is a truthful expression of this long forgotten variety, grown in the vineyards in the Valle de Aconcagua.

• Vintage 2006, 96 Parker Points

• 100% Carmenère (current vintage available: 2007)

ERRAZURIZ MAX RESERVA CARMENERE

• Release in 2009, vintage 2007

• Part of the Max Reserva wines range

• Showcase the Best single variety expression of the Valle de Aconcagua

• Vintage 2008, 92% Carmenère + 8% Syrah• Carmenère is black fruit with a touch of herbs•Syrah is about black fruit

THANK YOU!