Build Your Own CloneE.S.V. Fuzz Kit Instructions

Parts Checklist?????????.................?..page 2

Populating the Circuit Board??.................??..page 3 - 8

Assembly???????????.................?....page 9

Mounting the Circuit Board.....................................page 10 - 12

Wiring????????????.........................page 13

Orienting the Transistors/Finish up??....??....page 14 - 15

Schematic..................................................................page 16

Troubleshooting........................................................page 17 - 24

2010 byoc, LLC

Parts Checklist for The E.S.V. Fuzz KitResistors:1 - 470ohm (yellow/purple/brown/gold)1 - 4.7k (yellow/purple/red/gold)1 - 33k (orange/orange/orange/gold)1 - 100k (brown/black/yellow/gold)1 - 1M (brown/black/green/gold)Trimpot:1 - 25k trimmerCapacitors:1 - .001uf/1000pf silver mica (only with silicon version)1 - 0.1uf film (flat yellow)1 - 2.2uf aluminum electrolytic1 - 22uf aluminum electrolyticTransistors:2 - AC127/01 NPN germanium transistors (only with germanium version)2 - BC108 NPN silicon transistors (only with silicon version)2 - SS-9013 NPN silicon transistors (these are for test purposes)2 - Transistor socketsPotentiometers: SNAP THE SMALL TABS ON THE TOPS OF THE POTS OFF WITH APAIR OF NEEDLE NOSE

PLIERS1 - A500K Audio Volume pot1 - B1K Linear Fuzz potHardware:1 - predrilled enclosure w/ 4 screws1 - vintage fuzz kit circuit board1 - 3pdt footswitch2 - knobs1 - AC adaptor jack1 - ?stereo jack1 - ? mono jack1 - battery snap1 - red LEDhook-up wire

Populating the Circuit Board

NOTE: Rev2.0 has an added space for a .001uf capacitor. THIS CAPACITOR ISONLY USED WITH THE BC108 SILICON VERSION!!!!! The germanium versiondoes not come with this capacitor. If you have the germanium version, you should leavethis space empty. The addition of this capacitor is the only difference between Rev1.0 andRev2.0. The Rev2.0 board is used in the diagrams for the ?Populating the Circuit Board?portion of the instructions. So if you have an older Rev1.0, your PCB will not have aspace for the .001uf cap. The Rev1.0 PCB is used in all other diagrams. So if you have aRev2.0 PCB, then your PCB will have a space for a .001uf cap, but the diagrams will not.The wiring and mounting of all components is exactly the same for both Rev1.0 andRev2.0.

Step 1: Add all the resistors. Resistors are not polarized and can be inserted in eitherdirection.

Step 2: Add the transistor sockets. Make sure that the tab on the socket matches upwith the tab on the circuit board. Do not add the transistors yet. Do not solder thetransistors to anything. Only solder the sockets.

Step 3: Add the bias trimpot. The board is designed to accept several brands oftrimmers, but there is only one way to insert the trimpot that comes with the kit.Directions for setting the trimpot are in the ?finishing touches? portion of the directions.

Step 4: Add the .1uf film capacitor. This is non-polarized so it can go in eitherdirection.

Step 5: Add the aluminum electrolyic capacitors. These are polarized, meaning there is apositive and negative end. The positive end will go into the square solder pad. Thepositive end of the capacitor will have and indented collar around it.

Step 6: Add the .001uf cap THIS STEP IS ONLY FOR THE BC108 SILICONVERSION! Do not add this capacitor if you are building the germanium version.

Assembly

1. Install the jacks first. If you are looking down inside the enclosure, the mono jackgoes on the right side and the stereo jack goes on the left. Place the washer on the

outside of the enclosure. Use a 1/2? wrench to tighten.

2. Install the AC adaptor jack. The bolt goes on the inside. Use a 3/4? or 14mmwrench to tighten.

3. Install the potentiometers so that the solder lugs are pointing down. The 1k(fuzz/attack) pot goes on the left side and the 500k (volume) pot goes on the right. Thewashers go on the outside. Use a 10mm wrench to tighten but only snug. Do not overtighten the pots.

4. Install the footswitch. The first bolt and metal washer go inside. The plastic washerand second bolt go on the outside. It does not matter which side you designate as the?leading edge? of the footswitch as long as you orientate it so that the flat sides of thesolder lugs are aligned in horizontal rows, not vertical columns.

Mounting the Circuit Board

PC Mounted Potentiometers: Some kits will come with PC mounted potsdepending upon availability. If your kit has PC mounted pots follow

these steps for mounting the circuit board.

Step1: Understand that the LED, and both potentiometers will be mounted directly to theunderside of the PCB. You should do the actual soldering on the topsid of the PCB.

Read through all the steps in this portion before doing anything so that you can get the?big picture?.

Step 2: Install the LED but do not solder it or clip the leads. You will insert the LEDinto its eyelets. Make sure the longer lead goes in the square eyelet and the shorter lead

goes in the round eyelet. Bend the leads of the LED so that it will not fall out of the PCBwhen you flip it over.

Step 3: Now mount the PCB with LED onto the leads of the potentiometers. This movemay take a little finess. It?s best to leave your pots somewhat losely mounted to the

enclosure so that you can easily move them to line up with the eyelets on the PCB. Youmay need to bend the leads of the pots into place if they were bent in shipping.

Step 4: once you have the PCB in place, snug the nuts of the pots and toggle switch withyour fingers.

Step 5: Move the LED into place by guiding it with the leads that are sticking out of thetop side of the PCB.

Step 6: Solder the LED and pots on the top side of the PCB. Clip the excess LED leads.Do not clip the leads of the pots.

Solder Lugged Pots: Some kits may come with panel mounted pots withsolder lug termination. If your kit has these style pots, follow these steps

for mounting the PCB.

Step 1: Connect the pots to their eyelets on the PCB with hook up wire. Insert the wiresfrom the underside of the PCB and solder on the topside. Lug 1 of the A500k LEVELpot gots to the L1 eyelet. Lug 2 of the LEVEL pot goes to the L2 eyelet. Lug 3 of the

LEVEL pot goes to the L3 eyelet. Lug 1 of the B1k Fuzz pot goes to the A1 eyelet. Lug2 of the Fuzz pot goes to the A2 eyelet. Lug 3 of the Fuzz pot goes to the A3 eyelet.

Step 2: Install the self-adhesive nylon standoffs from the underside of the PCB into thelarge mounting eyelets, but do not remove the paper backings yet.

Step 3: Install the LED into the underside of the PCB, but DO NOT SOLDER IT YET!The longer lead goes in the round pad and the shorter lead goes in the square pad. Notthat?s not a typo. Yes that is correct. Longer lead in the round pad. Shorter lead in the

square pad. Bend the leads of the LED outward on the topside of the PCB so that it doesnot fall out when you flip it over.

Step 4: Now remove the paper backings from the standoffs and adhere them to the backsof the pots. It?s a good idea to clean the backs of your pots with some rubbing alcohol

first.

Step 5: Grab the LED by the leads that are sticking out of the topside of the PCB andguide it into place. Solder it from the topside and clip the excess leads.

Wiring

Finishing Touches

Step 1: Install the transistors

Install the transistors. Do not solder the transistors. Simply push the lead wires into theappropriate socket holes. The transistor socket hole with the tab next to it will be theemitter. The lead wires on the germanium transistors will be rather longs, so you willwant to clip off the excess. But be sure to leave enough so you can bend the transistordown and out of the way when you seal the enclosure. But do not clip the transistor leadsuntill you have tested your pedal and know that they work.

Step 2: Adjusting the bias trimpotThere is no special trick to this. Simply turn the trimpot till it sounds good to you.Usually right in the middle is about where you want it. Some people say that you must setthe bias so that the collector of Q2 measures 4.5 - 5.5v, but this is only a matter ofopinion. Trust your ears for this step.

Step 3: Close it up.Install the base of the enclosure with the 4 screws that came with your kit. Add therubber bumper feet...unless you?re a velcro person. If you?ve got any problems that youcan?t figure out on your own, please visit the BYOC forumwww.buildyourownclone.com/board for technical support.

Trouble ShootingIf you need to trouble shoot your E.S.V. Fuzz kit, the first thing you should do is installthe SS-9013 test transistors. Many people get hung up on the fact that they think their

fuzz doesn?t work because of the NOS transistors, and therefore, refuse to look forproblems elsewhere. The SS-9013 are new production transistors that actually sound alot like germanium transistors and have almost no chance of being faulty, so that if your

problem isn?t with your transistors, you can focus on what needs to be done to locate thesource of the problem.

Checking Your Wiring

1. NO POWER: If you have a completely dead pedal and your LED will notlight up, this is usually a good sign that you are not getting power to the circuit.

First you need to make sure that you are using a fresh battery or good powersupply. Also make sure you have a plug in the IN jack. This acts as your power

switch. Now let?s make sure you have a good ground. Set your Digital MultiMeterto test for continuity. Continuity is the setting where the meter makes a noise when

you touch the two probes together. Now test the ??? locations in the wiringdiagram and make sure that there is continuity between all.

*If you don?t get continuity between all 3 locations, you likely have a bad connectionsomewhere in the black wire.

Now set your meter to test for 9VDC. Make sure you do not set it to test for AC. And ifyou do not have an auto-ranging meter you will need to set it for the proper voltage. Youwant to set it to test for the lowest voltage without going under 9V. This will probably be20V on most meters. With the pedal/footswitch in the engaged position, you should get

approximately 9VDC when you touch the red probe to the POS eyelet and the blackprobe to the LED eyelet. You will probably get a little more than 9V with an adaptor and

a little less than 9V with a battery.

If you are not getting a reading here, keep the red probe on the POS eyelet and move theblack probe to one of the ??? locations.

*If you do not get a reading now, you likely have a bad connection somewhere alongthe red wire.

If you don?t get a 9V reading at the POS and LED eyelets, but you do get a 9V reading atthe POS eyelet and one of the ??? locations, there is a possibility that you have a faultyfootswitch or a bad connection at lugs 1 and/or 2 of the footswitch. Test for continuitybetween lugs one and two of the footswitch. Make sure to press the footswitch on and

off so that you are certain that you are engaging the throw between lugs 1 and 2 one wayor the other.

*If you are getting continuity between lugs 1 and 2, then you likely have a badsolder joint at lugs 1, 2, and/or the LED solder pad.

*If you are not getting continuity between lugs 1 and 2 regardless of what state thefootswitch is in, then you likely have a faulty foostswitch.

2. NO BYPASS: Set your DMM to test for continuity. Touch the probes to the??? locations which would be the TIPS of the 1/4? jacks. When your footswitch is in thebypass state, you should have continuity between the two ??? locations. Test lugs 8 and

9 of the footswitch for continuity.*If you get continuity between lugs 8 and 9, but no continuity between the 2 ???

locations, then you likely have a bad solder joint somewhere along the orangewiring. This also includes the jumper connection between lugs 4 and 9.

*If you do not get continuity between lugs 8 and 9 and you are certain that thefootswitch is in the bypass state, then you likely have a faulty footswitch.

3. BYPASS WORKS, BUT THE EFFECT DOES NOT: Thiscould be any number of problems located on the PBC, but let?s check your offboard

wiring first and make sure that you are getting signal to and from the PCB to rule thatproblem out. Set your DMM to test for continuity. Make sure your footswitch is in the?ENGAGED? state. You should get continuity between the two ??? locations and

between the two ??? locations. If you do not get continuity between the ??? locations,check for continuity between lugs 4 and 5. If you do not get continuity between the ???

locations, check for continuity between lugs 7 and 8,*If you get continuity between lugs 4 and 5, but no continuity between the ???

locations, then you likely have a bad solder joint along the purple wire.*If you get continuity between lugs 7 and 8, but no continuity between the ???

locations, then you likely have a bad solder joint along the brown wire.*If you don?t get continuity between lugs 4 and 5, or lugs 7 and 8, and you are

certain that your footswitch is in the engaged state, then you likely have a faultyfootswitch.

Checking your PCB

Ok....So Now you know bypass is working, signal is getting to and from the PCB, andthat the PCB also has a connection to +9V and ground. If you?re still haveing trouble, it?s

time to check your work on the PCB. Keep in mind that the PCB is simply a means ofconnecting one component or wire to another component or wire. So when you touch

your probe to the test location, you want to touch the probe to the exposed component orwire lead at that location and not to the PCB solder pad.

1. Check all ground connections. Set your DMM to test for continuity. Touch oneprobe to the sleeve of either jack and touch the other probe to the various ?BLACK? test

locations on the PCB. Your DMM should make a buzzing sound.

2. Check all Positive Voltage connections. Set your DMM to test for 9VDC. Touchthe black probe to the sleeve of either jack. Touch the red probe to the various ?RED?

test locations on the PCB. You should get +9V or exactly the same as what ever youpower supply is measuring.

3. Test the audio signal path. Do this using a Signal Test Probe. If the audio signalstops at BLUE8, then you likely have a problem with Q1. If it stops at Blue11, you likelyhave a problem at Q2. You should notice a large volume boost at BLUE9 and deminished

volume at BLUE 6 - 8 when compared to BLUE1 - 5. You should notice ?fuzz? atBLUE12 and all points there after.

5. Check the Q2Collector Bias. Set your DMM to test for 9VDC. Touch the blackprobe to the sleeve of either jack. Touch the red probe to the green test points.

Typically you should see somewhere around 4.5v - 5.5v. But optimal tone may beanywhere between 3.5v and 6.5v. If you cannot get your voltage within this range

by adjusting the trimpot you have a problem somewhere.

2010 byoc, LLC