button hole machine
TRANSCRIPT
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BUTTON HOLE MACHINE
BY MADHUMATHI. G
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INTRODUCTIONy
Buttonholes are holes in fabric that are paired with functional buttons that serve as fasteners and as decorative buttons.
y Buttonholes may be either made by hand sewing or automated by asewing machine.
y B
uttonholes are the essential finishing touch on blouses, jackets andany other project that utilizes buttons for closure.
y They are normally stitched when the garment is finished.
y The simplest buttonholes are used on shirts, blouses and other light
weight garments.y The complex buttonholes are preferred for all tailored garments
such as jackets, overcoats, etc.
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GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS
yThe form and sizeof the buttonhole
y
The stitch typeyThe stitch bight
y Stitch density
y Shapes of Buttonhole
stitches:
y Circle
y
Eyelety Radial
y With or without bar tack
y Straight legs
y
Overlapped legsy Rounded edges
y Square edges.
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PRINCIPLES OF BUTTONHOLE STITCHFORMATION
yBased on the principle of lock stitch or chainstitch.
yChain stitched - good appearance and lessdurability.
y It provides purl effect and is preferred for jackets,
light weight materials, etc.yLock stitch - increased life and less attractive
appearance than the chain stitch.
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BUTTONHOLE MACHINES -- JUKI --LBH-1790, COMPUTER-CONTROLLED
MACHINE
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STITCH PATTERNS
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SETTINGS FOR BUTTONHOLE MACHINES
y The normal settings to be considered in buttonhole machines are,
y Height of the needle bar
y Needle to hook timing
y The position of needle and needle guard.
y
Adjusting the feed motor to have uniform feedy Adjusting knife drop position with relation to throat plate
y Adjusting the stroke of cloth cutting knife
y Replacing knife with reference to the button hole width and length
y Adjusting the needle thread trimmer timing
y
Adjusting the needle thread trimmer heighty Adjusting the bobbin thread trimmer
y Adjusting presser foot lift, pedal, and take up spring tension
y Adjusting the thread breakage plate and all the sensors.
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y According to the width of the button hole, the size of the knife ischosen.
y
The knife opens the hole in number of strokes to make neat finish.y For lock stitch machines the bigger hook bobbins are available to
have higher production.
y Operating panel facilitates complete data entry like the selection of
pattern, editing the pattern chosen, cloth cut length, stitch density, bar tacking length, eyelet shape length, number of basting, bastingpitch, pitch and width of going and returning, knife motion, speed,thread tension, and so on.
y
Modern machines are coming with different pedal positions usingwhich the material can be accurately positioned and stitched.
y It consists of intermediate position to position the fabric thensewing opposition to hold and stitch.
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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
Sewing speed Max. 4,200rpm, Normal 3,600rpm
Needle bar stroke 34.6mm
Size of cloth cutting knife 6.4
31.8mm (1/4"
1-1/4")Bartacking width Max. 5.0mm
Buttonhole length Max. 41mm (optional: 70mm, 120mm)
Precision of needle throwing mechanism 0.05mm
Needle thread tension Active tension (electronic thread tension control system)
Number of stitches Automatically computed from the size of the buttonhole
Needle (at the time of delivery) DP×5 (#11J) #11J#14J
Hook DP type, full-rotary hook
Lift of the work clamp 14mm
Auto-lifter Provided as standard (stepping motor type)Needle throwing system Stepping motor
Cloth feeding system Intermittent feed by stepping motor
Cloth cutting knife system By double-acting solenoid
Number of standard patterns 30 patterns
Number of patterns Max. 99 patterns
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OPERATION PANEL
y STANDARD PANEL
y All kinds of data can beentered on or selected fromthe operation panel.
y Various data, such as patternnumbers and stitch shapes areindicated on the LCD sectionwith easy-to-understandpictographs.
y IP-310A
y large color LCD touch panel has beenadopted for the display. It gives cleardisplays that allow the operator tounderstand operating procedures.
y The IP-310A panel can be connected to apersonal computer and can store data on
CompactFlash.. This allows data to beexchanged or shared among sewingmachines installed in a factory or amongremote factories.
y The IP-310A panel has been provided witha process improvement supporting featurethrough the indication of the operational
state of the sewing machine, and amaintenance and management feature forindicating the needle changing timing andcleaning timing.
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JUKI's unique active tension (Electronic
thread tension control system).y Needle thread tension for sewing parallel and
bartacking sections of buttonholes can be separately
controlled through the operation panel and stored
in memory according to various sewing conditions
(e.g., type of thread, type of material and sewingspeed).
y The machine is able to change the needle thread tensions at the paralleland bartacking sections of the buttonhole, to produce a beautiful
buttonhole shape. This capability helps greatly in preventing thread breakage.
y Needle thread tension is activated at the beginning and end of sewing. Thisprevents unthreading of the needle thread, and thread fraying that is likelyto occur at the beginning of sewing.
y Thread tension for basting stitching can be specified separately.
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Basting stitch mechanism is effective for
the production of beautiful buttonholes.y The basting stitch is effective on elastic materials such as knits.
y Basting stitch: Since the needle thread is tucked in without fail,itwill never jut out of the buttonhole seams. Basting stitch can besewn by nine rounds.
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Major drive mechanism is electronically
controlled
y An electronic control feature has been adopted for the material feedmechanism, needle rocking mechanism, needle thread trimmingmechanism, bobbin thread trimming mechanism, cloth cuttingknife mechanism and presser bar lifting mechanism.
y In addition, mechanisms such as V-belts,stop-motion mechanisms and cams have been
substantially reduced to ensure operation with
lower vibration and noise.
y A direct-driven system that directly connectsthe compact AC servomotor to the main shaft has been adopted.
y All adjustment values are entered as data. They can be set or storedin the memory on the operation panel.
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BUTTON SEWING MACHINE
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y Button sewing machines are used to attach the buttonsto the surface of the garment.
y Various machines are available to different kinds of buttons.
y The variables of button sewing machines are:
y Size and shape of the button which determines thesize and type of the button clamp
yThe number and disposition of holes
yThe form of stitching either parallel or cross,whether button is sewn shank or neck
yThe stitch type
y
The number of stitches
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