build the revio arduino clone my way

8/10/2019 Build the RevIO Arduino Clone My Way

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http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-The-RevIO-Arduino-Clone-My-Way/

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Build ??The RevIO?? (Arduino Clone) My Wayby sath02on March 30, 2012

Table of Contents

Build ??The RevIO?? (Arduino Clone) My Way .........................................................................................

Intro: Build ??The RevIO?? (Arduino Clone) My Way .................................................................................

Step 1: Things you'll need... ..................................................................................................

Step 2: Lay it out... .........................................................................................................

Step 3: Tools... ............................................................................................................

Step 4: The Hardest Part .....................................................................................................

Step 5: The Fun Part... ......................................................................................................

Step 6: Break point... ........................................................................................................

Step 7: Add visual to power supply, test LED on D13, Reset Button and FTDI connector... ....................................................

Step 8: Test Again... ........................................................................................................ 1

Step 9: Add 3.3V Power Supply... .............................................................................................. 1

Step 10: Case... ........................................................................................................... 1

Step 11: Usage... .......................................................................................................... 1

Related Instructables ........................................................................................................ 1
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Intro: Build ??The RevIO?? (Arduino Clone) My WayArduino is an open-source hardware with an 8-bit Atmel AVR processor. Arduino uses Arduino's Programming Language, descendant of the open-source Wiringplatform. Arduino is the low-cost modular prototyping hardware with the simple to use IDE(Integrated Development Environment) for upload firmware. Arduino isdesigned for hobbyists, artists, designers, and those who interested in learning/making some cool interactive electronic projects.

There are so many different sizes and shape of Arduino available out there. Arduino is not limited to one particular processor, the widely use micro-controller areAtmega8, Atmega168, Atmega328, Atmega1280, and Atmega2560.

The board can be built with minimum amount of components, Atmega328, 16Mhz resonator, 10K Resistor.

Arduino is designed to expose almost all the micro-?controller's input/output pins easily allowed to connect or communicate to other circuits. There are 14 digital I/O psix of them are PWM (Pulse Width Modulation), and six analog inputs.

On the official Arduino (Extreme, NG, Diecimila, Duemilanove, and the latest Arduino Uno) there are four rails of connectors located on the top of the board. One 6-pin

rail is for power supply, both 5V and 3.3V, ground lines, Vin and Reset. The second 6-pin rail is for six Analog pins. These two 6-pin female header rails are located 0.apart. Other two 8-pin rails located on the other side of the board, and sat 0.15 apart. These two 8-pin female header rails are used for all 14 digital I/O pins (D0 toD13.)

The Design

I have been used both official Arduinos (Duemianove, and Mega) and AdaFruit's Arduino clone (USB Boarduino and DC Boarduino) as well as built my own Arduinoclones for permanent task, such as TagTool Nano. (http://users.rcn.com/sthongrong/TagTool%20Thumb%20build.htm) I still l ike to use those boards, but at the sametime I want to design my own board that is easy to use, by emphasizing and grouping the communication pins other than on typical Arduino.

Since ATMega328 has three type of communication protocols (I2C, SPI, and Serial Communication), I'm going to separate and group these communication protocolsa rail on one side of the board. I needed to use at least seven pins(2 for I2C, 2 for Serial Comm., 3 for SPI , and 5V and ground. May be 3.3V to power the devices tharequire 3.3V, also I want to place the reset and AREF pin on this rail too. I probably needed something about 14 pins on these rail. It makes sense, and it is the sameamount of pins on each side of Atmega328!

Then I want to built this clone on a typical commercial available PC Board, without modification like trim or cut, and the size of the board should be about the same sizofficial Arduino board. And I want to have the board encase in the proper project case, so I could carry with me anywhere or use it in-field without fear that the board iexposed, or I would break or do harm to the exposed board while working outdoor. And I was also thinking of a way to accommodate the wireless communication, suc

as affordable Xbee or Bluetooth, on the board so I could easily use The RevIO to communicate with another devices wirelessly.

The most obvious physical properties of The RevIO:Two 14-pin female header rails are used instead of four rails of 6 and 8-pin females header.Allows piggy back breakout board or DIY breakout board (of the same type and size) to be stacked over.Encase the board in the suitable project case.Separate the Communication ports (I2C, SPI, and Serial Comm. Ports) on one rails and Color Codes on the project case, and both 5 and 3.3 Voltage regulators areincluded.Adafruit's Xbee Adapter Kit (http://www.adafruit.com/products/126) ready. Achieved by laid out the serial communication pins (six pins) in the same order as Adafruit'sXbee Adapter PCB.


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Step 1:Things you'll need...Parts:IC1 - Atmega328P with bootloader (Adafruit ID#123)R1,R3 - 1K Resistor (Radio Shack #271-1321 or Digikey #1KQBK-ND)R2 - 10K Resistor (Radio Shack #271-1335 or Digikey #10KQBK-ND)D1 - Diode 1N4001 (Radio Shack #276-1101 or Digikey #1N4001DICT-ND)C1, C6 - 100uF/16V (Digikey #P833-ND)C2 - 10uF/16V (Digikey #P807-ND)VR1 Voltage Regulator 78L05 TO-92 (DigiKey #?????-ND)C3, C4, C5 - 0.1uF/50V (Digikey #BC1160CT-ND)LED1 3mm LED Red (Digikey #160-1708-ND)LED2 3mm LED Green6mm Push Button (Digikey #SW400-ND)16MHz Resonator (Digikey #X908-ND)28-pin IC Socket (Digikey #3M5480-ND)SW Slide DPDT Switch (Digikey #401-2000-ND)6-pin Male header, Right angle (Digikey # S1111E-36-ND)Power Jack 2.1mm Connector (Digikey #CP-002A-ND)

(2) 14-pin Male header, extra long pin or use shield stacking headers (Adafruit ID#85)Multipurpose PC Board with 417 holes (Radio Shack #276-150)*Project case (http://www.inex.co.th/inexstore/)*

*NOTE:The reason I used Multipurpose PC Board with 417 holes for this project is, because on my last trip to Thailand in February this year. I got a chance to visit alocal electronics store and got a couple of project case that I want to use on some project And it cost me less than $1.00 per case. I had in mind. And I found out laterafter I got back to US that this project case fit perfectly well with Radio Shack's PC Board with 417 holes (Radio Shack #276-150). I don't think that this project case is the products list on the website.


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Step 2:Lay it out...Before I start to put components on the PCB, I will roughly put the large component on the PCB to see if the component fit. I noticed that on the Multipurpose PCB, thenumber of rows if different on each side, one has two rows of independent holes, the others has three rows. So, I pick the three rows for power jack, and 5V Regulatorcomponents. And place the processor's (ATmega328) pin 1 to 14 to be on the three rows, so I could place the resonator on the board without difficulty.

And I will place the 6-pin right angle header which will be used as the connector to FTDI cable for uploading the program to Atmega328.For the switch, I will place it on the same side of the power jack.

Note that I also mark the placement of the 14-pin rails on the outer most of the PCB.

Step 3:Tools...Tools:Solder iron and Soldering Work StationSolder - Rosin Core (Radio Shack #64-013)Hookup WireMultimeterDiagonal cutterPliersX-Acto KnifeWire StripperSolder Suckeretc. (something else that you might want to use.)


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Step 4:The Hardest PartFirst of all, I made the slots on the PCB to accommodate the power jack's legs.

I use the X-ACTO knife, slowly and patiently scored the hole (be careful using the sharp object!) a little by little until I got the hole fit to the power's jack pin.

The hardest part is done!

Step 5:The Fun Part...From this step on, I will use the illustrations together with the real photos to show you where and which component goes on to the board. (step5_01)

The board is exactly the same as the board I mentioned in the part list. And it is easy enough to figure out where the components is located at. This will be easy for boof us, instead of using the words to explain where the component is to be located.

The way I oriented the board is to have the three individual solder holes at the lower end of the picture, and the two individual solder holes will be on the upper end of photo. Ad I also provide the bottom view to show you how I did my solder on the bottom of the PCB, and the Layout of the PCB. (step5_02)

Add Resonator, Capacitors, Diode...

I added 16Mhz Resonator to the PCB. pcb002 (step5_03)

And two 0.1uF Capacitors (C3 C4) , as seen in the following diagram. Since the capacitors do not have the polarity, we can solder them in right away. Then trim the lewith Diagonal cutter. (step5_04, step5_05)

Then, I added the D1 - diode (1N4001) at the end of power jack (see diagram), we need to be more careful, since it have polarity.(step5_06)

I placed the diode vertically to save the space. On the body of the diode there is a white stripe at one end, I placed that end away from the power jack. Then, I solderethe power jack and the diode together. (step5_07)

Next component added was C1 - 100uF Capacitor. The C1 also have the polarity, I placed the positive (+) leg of the polarity next to the diode (D1) and the negative(-)away from the diode. Then I soldered the diode leg and the capacitor together. (step5_08)

Newt component was the VR1 - 5V voltage regulator, notice the way I inserted it in, the face of the regulator is upward. (step5_9, step5_10, step5_11)

And I soldered the bottom of the board as in the diagram.(step5_12)


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Then added C2 - 10uF capacitor on to the board next to the right leg of the 5V Voltage Regulator. Note that this capacitor is also have polarity. The positive (+) of thecapacitor is placed next to the right most of voltage regulator. Then soldered these two legs together. (step5_13)

And I conected the ground (negative) end of C1, VR1, and C2 together. (step5_14)

And connected the forth pin of the bottom rail to this ground line as well.Then connected all the ground and positive power line together. (step5_16, step5_17)

Also connected the bottom most of resonator to pin 10 of the micro-controller. (step5_18, step5_19)


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Step 6:Break point...Yeah, we reached the break point!

I did tested on the power supply. I used the multimeter to read the value out of pin 7 (positive) and pin 8 (negative or ground) and hook the 9V battery to power jack.

The reading from the multimeter was 5.04V. I was happy. I did thing right!

[pic revio017.jpg]

Step 7:Add visual to power supply, test LED on D13, Reset Button and FTDI connector...After I finished the previous step. I realize that I needed the visual for the power supply, so I could see if the PCB is connected. So I added the LED1 - 3mm red LED nto the power jack. And also added the R1 - 1K resistor next to the red LED. (step7_1, step7_2, step7_3)

Next, I connected the C3 - capacitor that sat next to FTDI header connector, to the pin 1 of the micro-controller. And added R2 - 10K resistor on to the board next to repin (pin 1) of micro-controller too. (step7_4, step7_5)

It is a good idea to maintain the " test" LED similar to Arduino which has the "test" LED connected to pin D13. So I connected R3 - 1K resistor and LED2 - 3mm greenLED onto the board. (step7_6, step7_7)

After I connected all the wire of green led and resistor to pin D13, I installed the push button on the top right corner of the PCB. (step7_8)

Next I connected 5V pin and ground pin of FTDI to the 5V and ground line of the PCB.(step7_9)

Then connected the RXD and TXD of the FTDI connector header to pin 2 and 3 of the micro-controller.(step7_10)


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Step 8:Test Again...Its almost done! Why? Because I want to have 3.3V available on the rail to since there are so many divices using 3.3V power. And I could use another break.

I did another test by insert the micro-controller ATMega328 with bootloader. (I got the preloaded ATMega328 from Adafruit.) Then loaded the sketch via FTDICable.

If everything went well, you should be able to see the blinking (green) led.


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Step 9:Add 3.3V Power Supply...We need three more components in order to add 3.3V power supply. The three components are:C5 - 100uF/16V (Digikey #P807-ND)C6 - 0.1uF/50V (Digikey #BC1160CT-ND)VR2 Voltage Regulator MCP1700-3323 TO-92 (DigiKey #MCP1700-3302E/TO-ND) (step9_1)

I connected all the wiring between the microcontroller and the two 14-pin rails on both sides of the board. And I did installed the two 14-pin male header rails to the bo(step9_2 - step9_ 4)

The picture shows how I connected between the pins and two 14-pin rails on the bottom of the board. (step9_5 - step9_7)


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Step 10:Case...I had a small problem with the power jack, it was too high to be in the case. So I cut out the top of the case to fit the top profile of the power jack. Then I cut out the sidmake the slot for the FTDI cable. And then mark the opening for the two 14-pin rails.(step10_1)

It would be hard if I used the knife to cut the slot. So I used the very small drill to drill the hole along the line, the use the X-ACTO knife to score along the dotted drills.

(step10_2, step10_3, step10_4)

For the pins label, I printed my layout on the Clear Sticker Project Paper (Avery #4383) available at stationaries (Office Max, Staple, etc.) and cut and paste onto the toof the box. (step10_5, step10_6)

And the final test! (step10_7 - step10_8)


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Step 11:Usage...

As I mentioned earlier in the Intro. Here is the pictures show how XBee could be installed right on top of my RevIO. (step11_1, step11_2)

This is the photos shows how I used my RevIO with a Robot Arm that I modified, and added motors control board and XBee to control the Robot Arm. (step11_3, -step11_5)

VIDEO

- Test uploading the "blinking LED"

- with force sensors (from - http://arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/Tone3)


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