breakwaters and closure dams: chapter 5

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April 12, 2012 1 Chapter 5: use of theory ct5308 Breakwaters and Closure Dams H.J. Verhagen Faculty of Civil Engineering and Geosciences Section Hydraulic Engineering

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Page 1: Breakwaters and closure dams: chapter 5

April 12, 2012

Vermelding onderdeel organisatie

1

Chapter 5: use of theory

ct5308 Breakwaters and Closure Dams

H.J. Verhagen

Faculty of Civil Engineering and GeosciencesSection Hydraulic Engineering

Page 2: Breakwaters and closure dams: chapter 5

April 12, 2012 2

Theoretical background needed• waterlevels (tides)• flow trough gaps• stability of floating objects• waves

• basics• refraction, shoaling, breaking, diffraction, reflection• wave statistics

• short term statistics (Rayleigh)• long term statistics

• Geotechnics• sliding• squeeze• liquefaction

Page 3: Breakwaters and closure dams: chapter 5

April 12, 2012 3

Initial tidal wave by the moon and the sun

Page 4: Breakwaters and closure dams: chapter 5

April 12, 2012 4

Adding semi-diurnal constants resulting in spring and neap tide

Page 5: Breakwaters and closure dams: chapter 5

April 12, 2012 5

Adding diurnal to semi-diurnal constant

Page 6: Breakwaters and closure dams: chapter 5

April 12, 2012 6

Amphidromy in the North Sea

Page 7: Breakwaters and closure dams: chapter 5

April 12, 2012 7

typical tides

Page 8: Breakwaters and closure dams: chapter 5

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adding the fortnightly constant

Page 9: Breakwaters and closure dams: chapter 5

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flow pattern in a gap

Page 10: Breakwaters and closure dams: chapter 5

April 12, 2012 10

Flow over a sill

subcritical flow

critical flow

2 ( )Q mBh g H h= −

2 ( )Q hu m g H hB a a

= = −

1Q = m B a 2 g H3

( ) ( )2 1Q m B H 2 g H3 3

=

( )1u m 2 g H3

=

Page 11: Breakwaters and closure dams: chapter 5

April 12, 2012 11

modelling

xQ H+ = 0Bx t

δ δδ δ

0x2

g Q QQ ( Q u) Hg A Wt x x A RC

δ δ α δδ δ δ

+ + + − =

Solving these equation by:•physical model•mathematical model

•2 d model•1 d model•storage area approach

Page 12: Breakwaters and closure dams: chapter 5

April 12, 2012 12

Physical model

Page 13: Breakwaters and closure dams: chapter 5

April 12, 2012 13

two dimensional model

Korea, Gaduk port, Mike21, DHIOosterscheldewerken, Waqua, Rijkswaterstaat/WL

Page 14: Breakwaters and closure dams: chapter 5

April 12, 2012 14

one-dimensional model

Page 15: Breakwaters and closure dams: chapter 5

April 12, 2012 15

storage/area approach

xQ H+ = 0Bx t

δ δδ δ

Page 16: Breakwaters and closure dams: chapter 5

April 12, 2012 16

validity of storage/area approach

length of tidal wave: L= c*T = √gh * T = √10*10 *12*3600= 432 km

basin < 0.05 L = 20 km

Page 17: Breakwaters and closure dams: chapter 5

April 12, 2012 17

equations for storage/area approach

31 2

2 3 3 1

2 1 3 1

2 ( ) ( )

23

2 23 3

g Rdh

A g H h B Q tdt

h h for h H

h H for h H

μ − = −

= >

= <

Ag and B can be combined to one input parameter

Page 18: Breakwaters and closure dams: chapter 5

April 12, 2012 18

parameters needed• water level in the sea• river discharge• ratio between storage area and width of closure gap• sill height• discharge coefficient of the gap

Assume for the time being that the river discharge is zero and that the tide is always semi-diurnal

Set the discharge coefficient of the gap to 1

Remaining parameters: • tidal difference• ratio storage area/gap width• sill height

Page 19: Breakwaters and closure dams: chapter 5

April 12, 2012 19

design graph for the velocity

Page 20: Breakwaters and closure dams: chapter 5

April 12, 2012 20

example of the use of a design graph

Page 21: Breakwaters and closure dams: chapter 5

April 12, 2012 21

velocity as a function of the closure

Page 22: Breakwaters and closure dams: chapter 5

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Stability of a submerged object

Page 23: Breakwaters and closure dams: chapter 5

April 12, 2012 23

Stability of a floating object

.5 2 3.5

112

b

b

IMCV

I yx dx LB

GVgρ

+

=

= =

=

Page 24: Breakwaters and closure dams: chapter 5

April 12, 2012 24

Definition of a regular wave

H

H wave heightT wave periodL wave length

2 2cos2x tH

L Tπ πη ⎛ ⎞= −⎜ ⎟

⎝ ⎠

2tanh2gL hc

π⎛ ⎞= ⎜ ⎟⎝ ⎠

22

0 1.562gTL Tπ

= = c gh=

Page 25: Breakwaters and closure dams: chapter 5

April 12, 2012 25

validity for wave theories

Page 26: Breakwaters and closure dams: chapter 5

April 12, 2012 26

breaking

by steepness H/L< 0.14by depth H/h < 0.78 but…………….

Page 27: Breakwaters and closure dams: chapter 5

April 12, 2012 27

Irregular wave

Page 28: Breakwaters and closure dams: chapter 5

April 12, 2012 28

Rayleigh graph paper

2

2

( ) s

HH

P H H e

⎡ ⎤⎛ ⎞⎢ ⎥− ⎜ ⎟⎢ ⎥⎝ ⎠⎣ ⎦> =

Page 29: Breakwaters and closure dams: chapter 5

April 12, 2012 29

characteristic wave heights

Name Notation H/√m0 H/Hs

Standard deviation free surface ση=√m0 1 0.250 RMS height Hrms 2√2 0.706 Mean Height H = H1 2√ln 2 0.588

Significant Height Hs= H1/3 4.005 1 Average of 1/10 highest waves H1/10 5.091 1.271 Average of 1/100 highest waves H1/100 6.672 1.666 Wave height exceeded by 2% H2% 1.4

Page 30: Breakwaters and closure dams: chapter 5

April 12, 2012 30

characteristic wave periods

Name Notation Relation to spectral moment

T/Tp

Peak period Tp 1/fp 1 Mean period Tm √(m0/m2) 0.75 to 0.85 Significant period Ts 0.9 to 0.95

Page 31: Breakwaters and closure dams: chapter 5

April 12, 2012 31

typical types of wave statistics patterns

Page 32: Breakwaters and closure dams: chapter 5

April 12, 2012 32

H/T-diagram

Page 33: Breakwaters and closure dams: chapter 5

April 12, 2012 33

waves in shallow water

shoalingrefractionbreakingdiffractionreflection

( ) ( )( )

0

1 1 4 /tanh 2 / 1

sinh 4 /

shH k

h LH h Lh L

πππ

= + =+

Page 34: Breakwaters and closure dams: chapter 5

April 12, 2012 34

the iribarren number(surf similarity parameter)

0

tanH Lαξ =

tan α slope of the shoreline/structureH wave heightL0 wave length at deep water

Page 35: Breakwaters and closure dams: chapter 5

April 12, 2012 35

breaker types (2)

spilling ξ < 0.5

plunging 0.5 < ξ < 3

collapsing ξ = 3

surging ξ > 3

Page 36: Breakwaters and closure dams: chapter 5

April 12, 2012 36

breaking waves

20.142 tanhbH L hLπ⎛ ⎞= ⎜ ⎟

⎝ ⎠

0.78 ( )bH solitarywaveh≈

0.4 0.5sHh≈ −

Page 37: Breakwaters and closure dams: chapter 5

April 12, 2012 37

change of distribution in shallow water

Page 38: Breakwaters and closure dams: chapter 5

April 12, 2012 38

Battjes Jansen method

{ }( )

2

11

3.6

22

( ) 1 exp

Pr

1 exp

tr

tr

HF H H HH

H HHF H H HH

⎧ ⎡ ⎤⎛ ⎞⎪ ⎢ ⎥= − − ≤⎜ ⎟⎪ ⎢ ⎥⎝ ⎠⎪ ⎣ ⎦≤ = ⎨

⎡ ⎤⎪ ⎛ ⎞⎢ ⎥= − − >⎪ ⎜ ⎟⎢ ⎥⎝ ⎠⎪ ⎣ ⎦⎩

Page 39: Breakwaters and closure dams: chapter 5

April 12, 2012 39

Influence of shallow water on the wave height

Page 40: Breakwaters and closure dams: chapter 5

April 12, 2012 40

Wave refraction

22 1

1

sin sincc

α α⎛ ⎞

= ⎜ ⎟⎝ ⎠

2 1

1 2

H bH b

=

Page 41: Breakwaters and closure dams: chapter 5

April 12, 2012 41

Diffraction behind a detached breakwater

Page 42: Breakwaters and closure dams: chapter 5

April 12, 2012 42

reflection

20.1Rr

I

HKH

ξ= ≈

tot i rη η η= + = ( ) ( ) ( ) ( ) ( ) ( )2 2 2 21 cos *cos 1 sin *sin2 2

i iH Hx t x tr rL T L Tπ π π π+ + −

Page 43: Breakwaters and closure dams: chapter 5

April 12, 2012 43

Example with Cress

run demo Cress

refractionshoaling, etcdiffraction

x(50-200;4)

y (-200,200)

Page 44: Breakwaters and closure dams: chapter 5

April 12, 2012 44

The effect of shoaling on wave parameters

Page 45: Breakwaters and closure dams: chapter 5

April 12, 2012 45

Typical wave record of the North Sea

( ) 212 iS a

ω

ω ωΔ

= Δ∑

( ) ( )cos 2i i it a f tη π ϕ= +∑

0 13.5%4sH m H= =

Page 46: Breakwaters and closure dams: chapter 5

April 12, 2012

Vermelding onderdeel organisatie

46

Spectral wave periodsThe use of different wave parameters to obtain better results for wave structure interaction

ct5308 Breakwaters and closure dams

H.J. Verhagen

Faculty of Civil Engineering and GeosciencesSection Hydraulic Engineering

( )0

nnm f S f df

= ∫

Page 47: Breakwaters and closure dams: chapter 5

April 12, 2012 47

Example wave record

28 waves, Hs = "13% wave", Hs= wave nr 4, Hs ≈ 3.828 waves in 150 seconds, so Tm = 5.3 s

Page 48: Breakwaters and closure dams: chapter 5

April 12, 2012 48

composition of the record

H1 = 0.63 m T1= 4 sec

H2 = 1.80 m T2 = 5 sec

H3 = 1.55 m T3 = 6.67 sec

H4 = 0.90 m T4 = 10 sec Tm = 5.3 sec

Page 49: Breakwaters and closure dams: chapter 5

April 12, 2012 49

Spectrumdiscretised spectrum

0

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

0,1 0,15 0,2 0,25

frequency (Hz)

ener

gy d

ensi

ty (m

2 s)

energy density spectrum

0

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

0 0,1 0,2 0,3 0,4

frequency (Hz)

ener

gy d

ensi

ty (m

2 s)

212

a S f= ⋅Δ

2 221.558 6 [ ]

8 8 0.05HH S f S m s

f= ⋅Δ = = =

Δ ⋅

Page 50: Breakwaters and closure dams: chapter 5

April 12, 2012 50

Calculation of m0

0.60

0.050.05*1

0.150.05*3

0.300.05*6

0.100.05*2

04 3.1m m=

discretised spectrum

0

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

0,1 0,15 0,2 0,25

frequency (Hz)

ener

gy d

ensi

ty (m

2 s)

( )0

nnm f S f df

= ∫

Page 51: Breakwaters and closure dams: chapter 5

April 12, 2012 51

Calculation of m1

dist * SΔf

0.098

0.0130.25*0.05

0.0300.20*0.15

0.0450.15*0.30

0.0100.10*0.10

discretised spectrum

0

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

0,1 0,15 0,2 0,25

frequency (Hz)

ener

gy d

ensi

ty (m

2 s)

( )0

nnm f S f df

= ∫

Page 52: Breakwaters and closure dams: chapter 5

April 12, 2012 52

Calculation of m2 discretised spectrum

0

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

0,1 0,15 0,2 0,25

frequency (Hz)

ener

gy d

ensi

ty (m

2 s)

dist2 * SΔf

1.69 10-3

3.12 10-30.252*0.05

6.00 10-30.202*0.15

6.75 10-30.152*0.30

1.00 10-30.102*0.10

0

2

0.6010 5.69sec1.69

mTm

= = =

( )0

nnm f S f df

= ∫

Page 53: Breakwaters and closure dams: chapter 5

April 12, 2012 53

Calculation of m-1 discretised spectrum

0

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

0,1 0,15 0,2 0,25

frequency (Hz)

ener

gy d

ensi

ty (m

2 s)

1/dist * SΔf

3.95

0.201/0.25*0.05

0.751/0.20*0.15

2.01/0.15*0.30

1.01/0.10*0.10

11,0

0

3.95 6.58 sec0.60m

mTm−

− = = =

( )0

nnm f S f df

= ∫

Page 54: Breakwaters and closure dams: chapter 5

April 12, 2012 54

Overview

•Hm0 = 3.1 m (1.55+1.10+0.90+0.63=4.18)•Tm0 = 5.69 sec•Tm-1,0 = 6.58 sec•Tpeak = 6.67 sec

•Tm = 5.35 sec

− = =1,0

0

6.58 1.165.69

m

m

TT

For standard spectra:

Goda: Tp=1.1 T1/3

PM: Tp=1.15 T1/3

Jonswap: Tp=1.07 T1/3

TAW (vdMeer): Tp=1.1Tm-1,0

Old Test (vdMeer): Tp=1.04 Tm-1,0

Also: Tm-1,0=1.064T1/3

= =0 5.69 1.065.35

m

m

TT

Usual assumptions:Tm0 = TpT1/3 = Tm

Page 55: Breakwaters and closure dams: chapter 5

April 12, 2012 55

Overview to determine shallow water wave condition

• Determine deep water wave condition, this gives wave height, peak period and spectrum shape type (e.g. Jonswap)

• Calculate shallow water condition using spectral model (e.g. with SWAN), this gives Hm0, Tm0 and Tm-1,0

• Use Battjes-Jansen method to determine H2%

Page 56: Breakwaters and closure dams: chapter 5

April 12, 2012 56

Why these parameters ?

( )0.2

0.250.182%1,0

50

cotpl mn

H Sc P s for plunging wavesd N

α−⎛ ⎞= ⎜ ⎟Δ ⎝ ⎠

( ) ( )0.2

0.25 0.50.132%1,0 1,0

50

P

s m sn

H Sc P s for surging wavesd N

ξ− −−

− −⎛ ⎞= ⎜ ⎟Δ ⎝ ⎠

Page 57: Breakwaters and closure dams: chapter 5

April 12, 2012 57

stress relations determined by soil testing

Page 58: Breakwaters and closure dams: chapter 5

April 12, 2012 58

Dam profile after the slide

Page 59: Breakwaters and closure dams: chapter 5

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Squeeze

Page 60: Breakwaters and closure dams: chapter 5

April 12, 2012 60

Liquefied sand