brannon 12 (menswear 2014).ppt - texas tech university 1301/adm1301 wk11/brannon_12... · forecasts...

1

Chapter 12

Designing Menswear

Learning Objectives

Brannon Chapter 12 ©2011 Fairchild Books, A Division of Condé Nast 2

Sources of inspiration for menswear

Evolution of menswear

Menswear trends as a lifestyle narrative

Segmentation options in marketing menswear

Styling options for a man’s suit, furnishings, and casual wear

2

The Menswear industry

Economic importance

•Men’s and boy’s increasing interest in clothing.

•Consumer expenditures in 1999, $70 billion (AAMA, 2000).

The Menswear Industry History

•The U.S. “ready-to-wear” apparel industry

•Started with clothing for men in the early 1800s (Before women’s ready-to-wear).

•Early clothing was referred to as “Slops” (Poor quality).

Introduction


Men’s clothing from formal wear to work clothes inspires fashion — not just for men but for women’s styles, too

Men’s apparel forms a rich storehouse for inspiration, experimentation, and innovation

3

Menswear in History Men’s clothing took many turns before settling down to a suit and a tie

Imagine

•Wearing a pleated kilt while planning a pyramid — the ancient Egyptians did

•Conquering the world in a short tunic and leather belt like the Romans

•Going to war in armor and metal helmet

•Attending college in doublet, mantle, hose, and garters

•Dropping into a party in knee breeches and a satin embroidered coat


The Menswear Industry History

From Tailors to Manufacturers

•Brooks Brothers (A custom tailoring shop) founded in 1818.

•Manufacturing center: New York, Boston, Philadelphia, Newark, and Baltimore by 1835.

Gold Rush of 1848:

•Work Clothes for Laborers.

•Levi Strauss, California. Heavy fabrics (denim)

4

The Eighteenth and Nineteenth CenturiesTypical dress included a suit coat, waistcoat, breeches, hose, shoes with a buckle and a cloak and a hat

Standardization of sizes (Civil war).

Factory-made clothing, and new innovations in weaving and spinning (Industrial Revolution)

The terms sportswear, formal wear, and outdoor wear first appeared


Early Twentieth Century

Men adopted the suit as a kind of everyday, all-occasion uniform

The division between white collar and blue collar jobs identified social and economic status


5

The Menswear1900-1920•Natural shoulder line

•Tuxedo in New York. (see Tate, p.337)

•Trench Coat imported from England.

The 1920s•Ivy League influence suit

•Knickers to plus fours (4 inches below the knee),

•Polo shirts.

The Menswear The 1930s•Sportswear worn •English drape suit, which had a very fitted waist accented with large shoulders and wide lapel.•Bush Jacket (Safari jacket)•Gangster stripe suit with exaggerated padded shoulder.

6

The Menswear The 1940s•The war influenced.

•Eisenhower jacket (battle jacket)

The Menswear The 1950s•The continental suit had a slightly built-up shoulder, slim waist, and straight leg pant.

•Blue jeans and black leather jackets

7

The MenswearThe 1960s•John F. Kennedy look

•Synthetic fibers and permanent press fabrics for suits and sportswear.

The Menswear The 1970s•Lapels on suit and sports jackets grew wider

•The flared pant leg gradually went out of style in favor of a straight leg.

8

The Menswear The 1980s•Asymmetrical hair cuts

•Natural fibers symbolized better clothing

•New clothes were pre-washed or distressed to look worn.

Late Twentieth Century

Evolution of casual wear as a larger component of men’s wardrobes following World War II

Style options proliferated, spurred on by popular culture

By the 1980s menswear designers, brands, retailers, and magazines were well established


9

Turn of the Twenty-First Century

The 1990s were characterized by the fracturing of markets into sub-genres based on lifestyle

Extreme sports became directional for sportswear

Urban streetstyle

New category of male consumers: the young, straight, urban “metrosexual”


The Menswear The 1990s•Fashion trends for young men’s apparel were strongly influenced by active sportswear for “Board sports” and athletic uniforms.

•Skateboarder

•X sports wear

10

Fashion Inspiration: Dandies, Rebels, and Innovators

Historically a dandy leads fashion and introduces change; usually a man of leisure, fortune, taste, and wit

Rebel looks representing lifestyle

•The zoot suit, Beatnik, Teddy Boys, Mods, Hippies, Punk, and Grunge

Designers as innovators

•In the 1960s Pierre Cardin invented the concept of a designer as celebrity, pioneered licensing of his name on products, and became the first designer to market globally


Zoot suit (1930s)

Pegged pants, oversized with drape, hand pained tie, padded shoulder.


11

Beatnick (1940s)


Beatnicks were writers and artists who sought a bohemian lifestyle.

Slim black slacks,

tight black T-shirts, a black beret, and dark sunglasses.

Teddy Boys (1950s)

A neo-Edwardian look (after the style of Edward VII) co-opted from the upper class by working class London youths in the mid- 1950s as a uniform.

A Boxy, tight length, four button drape coats, black string ties.


12

The Menswear Marketplace

Encompasses a constellation of firms, from an entrepreneur doing business out of a storefront to multinational corporations to famous designers

Within each business category there are many companies, each of which employ designers


On the Runway

Twice a year during Fashion Week, menswear designers show the new and directional

Always tension between drama and realism, fantasy and what is wearable


13

Segmenting the Marketplace

Marketplace segmentation

•Age

•Preference

•Price

Segmentation by business type

•Lifestyle brands

•Designers brands with corporate owners

•Retailer brands

•Designer-as-retailer

•Design studio

•Independents

•Niche lines

•Custom made


Menswear Categories

The menswear categories

•Price points (From Budget to Designer)

•Fashion image1. Innovative (very trendy, usually youthful

styles).

2. Directional (for the man who wants a current image).

3. Conservative (for the man resisting change).

•Fit (Tailored suits).1. Tailored clothing

2. Casual office wear

3. Big and Tall

14

Differences from the Women’s Field

• Decentralized LocationsExamples:

• Levi Strauss (The largest) in San Francisco• Hartmarx (a major producer of tailored clothing) in Chicago.• Haggar and Farah are in Texas. • Showrooms are in New York city.

• Men remain slower and less willing than women to accept radical fashion changes.

• Body awareness (Athletic Clothing vs. Tailored Clothing)

• Strong is the interest in athletics• Men’s tailored clothing has changed to reflect the interest in fit bodies.

Styling Menswear Style change is more subtle and slower than with women’s wear

Each category of menswear from T-shirts to slacks, suits to ties, and jackets to jeans requires specialized knowledge about the materials, design alternatives, and construction


15

Fabric Selection

Consultants issue forecasts for menswear with fabric and fashion trends

Trade shows, which display only high-quality luxury fabrics, are directional for the entire menswear industry


Suit Wardrobe

Fabric patterns for suits

• Pinstripes, herringbone, and glen plaid.

Styling the suit

• Drop (measurements= Chest –Waist)

• The cut signals the style of the wearer

• The Drape (fullness in the chest)

• The European cut (Slim but 7”drop)

• The American cut (6”drop)

• The British cut (traditional cut with straight lines)


16

Suit Wardrobe

Options include single or double-breasted cut, buttons, shape of the shoulders, vents, lapels, and pockets

Three-piece suit includes a vest

When the jacket and pants are purchased separately, the jacket is a sport coat


Furnishings and Size

Furnishings complete a suit ensemble

• Shirts (Full cut, Tapered cut, or Fitted cut)

• Tie

• Socks

• Belt or suspenders

• Pocket squares

* Size:

Dimensional sizing system


17

Sportswear Shirts and Tops


Casual wear ranges from woven shirts in colors, patterns, and prints, to knit shirts, T-shirts, and sweaters

Span dressy casual to gym wear

Styling depends on segmentation of customer

Sportswear Pants

Spans a wide range of styles and occasions: slacks for dressy casual, chinos and cords, jeans, and shorts

Pocket design offers other styling options for pants


18

Outerwear Outerwear for men includes the classic trench coat, wool overcoat or topcoat, sporty jackets, and the multi-season coat with zip-in lining


The Menswear:Major Trade shows and publications

• MAGIC (Men’s Apparel Guild of California) trade show in Las Vegas.

1. Expanded into all men’s product lines.

2. The world largest menswear show.

• L.A., CIMM (California International Menswear Market) started in1988.

• The Designers’ Collective, a trade association, presents seasonal shows in New York City.

• Trade publications• Fairchild publishes the DNR (Daily News

Record) and M.

19

Chapter Summary The history of menswear shows an

evolution to a uniform way of dressing

epitomized by the suit

In the mid-twentieth century, menswear

expanded to include casual styles

Inspiration for change in menswear often

comes from dandies, rebels, and

innovators


Chapter Summary The most obvious segmentation of the

menswear marketplace is price

Working with a smaller palette of

options, the designer still needs to infuse

the seasonal line with newness, whether

with color, fabric, styling, or an intriguing

lifestyle narrative


brannon 12 (menswear 2014).ppt - texas tech university 1301/adm1301 wk11/brannon_12... · forecasts...

Documents