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Bolivia
Isabel Albiston, Michael Grosberg, Mark Johanson
Lake Titicaca
& AroundLa Paz
p107& Yungas
p232the Chaco
p253Gran Chiquitania
Santa Cruz &
p179Highlands
p88
p46
p286Amazon Basin
Bolivia &South Central
p142Altiplano
The Cordilleras
Central
Southern
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Welcome to Bolivia . . . . . 4Bolivia Map . . . . . . . . . . . . 6Bolivia’s Top 12 . . . . . . . . . 8Need to Know . . . . . . . . . 14First Time Bolivia . . . . . . 16If You Like . . . . . . . . . . . . 18Month by Month . . . . . . .20Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 22Bolivia Outdoors . . . . . . . 28Eat & Drink Like a Local . . . . . . . . . . . 35Travel with Children . . . .40Regions at a Glance . . . .42
LA PAZ & AROUND . . . . . . . . . 46La Paz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48Around La Paz . . . . . . . . 81Valle de la Luna . . . . . . . . 81Muela del Diablo . . . . . . . . 81Mecapaca . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82Valle de las Ánimas . . . . . 83Cañón de Palca . . . . . . . . . 83Cerro Chacaltaya . . . . . . . 84Tiwanaku . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84
LAKE TITICACA . . . . . 88Copacabana . . . . . . . . . . . 90Copacabana to Yampupata . . . . . . . . . . 98Isla del Sol . . . . . . . . . . . . 100Isla de la Luna . . . . . . . . . 105Huatajata . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105Islas de Wiñaymarka . . . 106Isla Kalahuta . . . . . . . . . . 106Isla Pariti . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106Isla Suriqui . . . . . . . . . . . 106
THE CORDILLERAS & YUNGAS . . . . . . . . 107Cordillera Real . . . . . . 109Huayna Potosí . . . . . . . . . 110Condoriri Massif . . . . . . . . 111Ancohuma . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112Illimani . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112Chachacomani . . . . . . . . . 113The Yungas . . . . . . . . . . 113Coroico & Yolosa . . . . . . . 114El Choro Trek . . . . . . . . . . 120Takesi Trek . . . . . . . . . . . . 122Yunga Cruz Trek . . . . . . . 123Chulumani . . . . . . . . . . . . 124
Around Chulumani . . . . . 126Guanay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128El Camino del Oro . . . . . 128Sorata . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130Aucapata & Iskanwaya . . . . . . . . . . 134Cordillera Apolobamba . . . . . . . . 135Charazani . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135Área Natural de Manejo Integrado Nacional Apolobamba . . . . . . . . . . 139Cordillera Quimsa Cruz . . . . . . . . . . 141
SOUTHERN ALTIPLANO . . . . . . . 142Oruro & the North . . . 143Oruro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143Around Oruro . . . . . . . . . 153Curahuara de Carangas . . . . . . . . . . 153Parque Nacional Sajama . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154Uyuni & the Southwest Circuit . . . 156Uyuni . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159Salar de Uyuni . . . . . . . . .167Los Lípez . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169Tupiza & Around . . . . . . 171Tupiza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171Around Tupiza . . . . . . . . . 177
CENTRAL HIGHLANDS . . . . . . 179Cochabamba . . . . . . . . 181Around Cochabamba . . . . . . . . 194Parque Nacional Tunari . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194
PLAN YOUR TRIP
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LAGUNA HEDIONDA P170
ON THE ROAD
UNDERSTAND
SURVIVAL GUIDE
Contents
Eastern Cochabamba Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194Tarata & Huayculli . . . . . 194Incallajta . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195Totora . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196Mizque . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196Parque Nacional Torotoro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .197Sucre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201Around Sucre . . . . . . . 213Tarabuco . . . . . . . . . . . . . 213Cordillera de los Frailes . . . . . . . . . . . . . 214Potosí . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219
SOUTH CENTRAL BOLIVIA & THE CHACO . . . . . 232South Central Bolivia . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234Tarija . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234El Valle de la Concepción . . . . . . . . . . . 246Reserva Biológica Cordillera de Sama . . . . 248Padcaya & Chaguaya . . . 250The Chaco . . . . . . . . . . 251Villamontes . . . . . . . . . . . 251
SANTA CRUZ & GRAN CHIQUITANIA . . . . . 253Santa Cruz . . . . . . . . . . 255Around Santa Cruz . . . . . . . . . . 266Buena Vista . . . . . . . . . . . 266Parque Nacional & Área de Uso Múltiple Amboró . . . . . . . 267
Samaipata . . . . . . . . . . . . 269Vallegrande . . . . . . . . . . . 274La Higuera . . . . . . . . . . . . 276Gran Chiquitania . . . . 277Jesuit Mission Circuit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 278
AMAZON BASIN . . . 286Chapare Region . . . . . 290Villa Tunari . . . . . . . . . . . . 290Parque Nacional Carrasco . . . . . . . . . . . . . 292Puerto Villarroel . . . . . . . 293Western Bolivian Amazon . . . . . . . . . . . . 294Rurrenabaque . . . . . . . . . 294Parque Nacional Madidi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 301San Borja . . . . . . . . . . . . . 302Reserva de la Biosfera y Estación Biológica del Beni . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 303San Ignacio de Moxos . . . . . . . . . . . . . 305Eastern Bolivian Amazon . . . . . . . . . . . . 307Trinidad . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 307Northern Bolivian Amazon . . . . . . . . . . . . 313Santa Ana de Yacuma . . . . . . . . . . . . 313Barba Azul Reserve . . . . 314Guayaramerín . . . . . . . . . 314Riberalta . . . . . . . . . . . . . 315Riberalta to Cobija . . . . . 318Cobija . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 318
Bolivia Today . . . . . . . . 320History . . . . . . . . . . . . . 322Life in Bolivia . . . . . . . 331Indigenous Culture . . . . . . . . . . . . . 333Music in Bolivia . . . . . 337The Natural World . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 339
Directory A–Z . . . . . . . 344Transportation . . . . . . 352Health . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 359Language . . . . . . . . . . . 364Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 376Map Legend . . . . . . . . . 383
SPECIAL FEATURESLa Paz City Walk . . . . . . .59
La Paz Markets . . . . . . . .62
Andean Camelids . . . . . 157
Salar de Uyuni & Southwest Circuit Tours . . . . . . . . . 162
Itineraries
BOLIVIA
CHILE
PERU
Coroico
Tupiza
Cochabamba
Potosí
SUCRE
LA PAZTiwanaku
Salar de Uyuni
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PA C I F I CO C E A N
LakeTiticaca
Best of Bolivia
This bare-bones itinerary will take you to the best of Bolivia – from colorful markets to stark salt plains to a city in the sky – at a head-rattling pace.
Start with a day of acclimatization in La Paz, visiting the markets. History buffs can take a side trip to Tiwanaku. From La Paz, head to Lake Titicaca. Allow up to three days on the lake to take in the sites of Copacabana and Isla del Sol and continue acclimatization. From there, circle down the altiplano (via La Paz) to the Salar de Uyuni for a bone-chatteringly cold three-day jeep tour. Extend your trip to the for-mer territory of Butch Cassidy in the pleasant cowboy town of Tupiza.
Swing up to Potosí, a starkly beautiful Unesco World Heritage city, situated at 4070m, where you can visit the mint and mines. After a day or two, head to the white city of Sucre to hang out with students in grand plazas. Return to La Paz via Cocha-bamba, taking in the views along the way. On your last day in La Paz, consider a day of museum-hopping or take a mountain-bike ride down the World’s Most Dangerous Road to Coroico.
2 WEEKS
22 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Top: Parque Nacional Sajama (p154)
Bottom: At the Fiesta de la Virgen de
Guadalupe (p207)
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With one week to play with, this itinerary allows time to get a taste of life in an Andean city and take in the awe-inspiring scenery of the Salar de Uyuni.
Fly into La Paz and spend two days exploring the city’s museums and galleries while you acclimatize. Soak in the atmosphere of the Andean markets, dine at La Paz’s excellent restaurants, and dip into the city’s coffee and bar scene. Zip up in the teleférico to see the unusual architecture of the neighborhood of El Alto, then visit a peña (folk-music venue) in La Paz’s Casco Viejo neighborhood. If you have time, consider a day trip to see the ruins at Tiwanaku, where you’ll find carved monoliths, archways and arcades, and two museums. From La Paz, take a flight to Uyuni to pick up a three-day jeep tour to the salar (salt desert). Get your camera and your plastic dinosaur ready for photos that play with perspective on the endless white crusty sur-face of the salt flats, and for snaps of spectacular sunsets. Brave the cold to gaze at the stars in the dark night sky.
Continue via the colored lakes of Los Lípez, with stops to spot flighty flamingos and geysers, and to take a dip in some thermal springs, before looping back through the otherworldly landscape of the Desierto de Dalí to Uyuni. If you can cope with the altitude, consider adding a volcano climb to your itinerary; custom tours can include a hike up Volcán Licancabur (5960m) or Volcán Tunupa (5432m). Spend a night in Uyuni to rest after the tour, before catching a bus to Potosí. Take a day or two to wander the streets and check out the city’s museums and mines. If you have time, take the bus back to La Paz, breaking the journey in Oruro. This gritty mining city has some quirky museums and there are opportunities for day trips to neighbor-ing villages. Alternatively, catch a flight from Potosí to La Paz.
1 WEEK
BOLIVIa
ParaGUaY
CHILe
PerU
arGentIna
LakeTiticaca
Potosí
LA PAZTiwanaku
Oruro
Uyuni
Volcán Licancabur(5960m)
VolcánTunupa(5432m)
#•
Los Lípez
Salar de Uyuni
Disierto de Dalí
R
R
#–
#•
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#•
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Altiplano Highlights
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Set aside five weeks to acclimatize to the high altitude, take in one of Bolivia’s signature treks, climb a peak, do a mountain-bike trip or simply dive into Bolivian culture.
From La Paz you can choose from a variety of day trips, including a visit to Tiwanaku or hiking in nearby Chacaltaya or Valle de la Luna. The adventurous can take on the Takesi or Choro treks, or ride a bike (or bus) down the World’s Most Dangerous Road to Coroico in the Yungas. Next head north to Rurrenabaque and the famous Parque Nacional Madidi – depending on your time and budget you can get here by land, air or boat. Take the time to explore this wild, little-trodden utopia. From ‘Rurre,’ take a bus to Trinidad, where you can kick back for a few days, eat-ing river fish and seeing a museum or two, before heading by plane or bus to Santa Cruz. From here you’ll kick off a multiday road trip through the Jesuit Mission Circuit, curling back around via Santa Cruz to the unique ruins near the hippie vil-lage of Samaipata and the spectacular Parque Nacional & Área de Uso Múltiple Amboró. Head up to Cochabamba for good market buys. From there you’ll start gaining some altitude as you pass through the culturally charged towns of Sucre and Potosí. After you’ve had your fill of these colonial masterpieces, cruise down to wine country near Tarija for a few days of warm weather, wine and chilled-to-perfection zen. You can then loop across to Tupiza for a day or two of mountain biking, while you arrange your four-day Salar de Uyuni trip, going the back way to avoid the crowds. On the way back toward La Paz, adventurous spirits may wish to stop near Curahuara de Carangas, before heading on to the high-plains wonderland of Parque Nacional Sajama, where hot springs and wildlife watching await.
If you still have time, continue through La Paz to Copacabana for a day or two of beachfront fun on Lake Titicaca. Cruise over on the ferry, stopping at Isla de la Luna for an afternoon on your way to Isla del Sol. It’d be easy to spend five days here, trek-king to lost valleys, ruins and small indigenous villages.
5 WEEKS
BOLIVIa
ParaGUaY
BraZIL
CHILe
PerU
LakeTiticaca
Copacabana
Rurrenabaque
Tupiza
Samaipata
Cochabamba
Potosí
SantaCruz
Tarija
SUCRE
LA PAZ Valle de la Luna JesuitMissionCircuit
Salar de Uyuni
Curahuarade Carangas
CoroicoTiwanaku
Trinidad
É
ParqueNacionalMadidi
Parque Nacional &Área de Uso
Múltiple Amboró
ParqueNacionalSajama
É
É
É
É É
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#÷
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CerroChacaltaya
É
ÉÉÉ
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The Whole Country
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More than half of Bolivia’s territory lies in the Amazon, and yet this is one of the least visited parts of the country. Waterway adventures here are good (and wet) in the rainy season, but if you plan on any type of road travel you should stick with the dry months.
Start in Santa Cruz, a sophisticated and cosmopolitan city with a dreamy (some-times steamy) climate and tropical atmosphere. Dip into the urban culture for a while and party with the rich kids in the discotecas, or take a day trip to nearby gardens or waterfalls. From here fly or catch the overnight bus to Trinidad, a growing town with a pretty plaza. Stay in town for a bit, whirl around on a motorcycle for a local fish meal, take a visit to a museum or two and have a much-needed siesta or three – it gets hot.
A three-hour bus ride will take you to the Jesuit mission village of San Ignacio de Moxos – if possible, plan your trip around the town’s colorful, not-to-be-missed fes-tival in July. From here, wildlife watchers should make a detour via El Porvenir into Reserva de la Biosféra Estación Biológica del Beni, where the trained eye can spot up to 500 unique species of birds, including a cornucopia of herons and egrets, along with prayerful cormorants, with wings spread in apparent supplication. There are around 100 different mammals in the reserve, which is also home to the Chimane tribe.
It’s a long slog from here via San Borja to Rurrenabaque, hammock country, from where you can set out for a couple of days on a jungle or pampas tour. One option is to get your jungle fill at the San Miguel del Bala ecoresort, just upriver from Rurre-nabaque. Whatever you do, don’t miss a trip to Parque Nacional Madidi. Bolivia’s best-known national park offers a week’s- or a lifetime’s-worth of adventures in over 1.8 million hectares. The park’s remarkable biodiversity is best enjoyed at a slow pace and you should leave enough time to stay in the highly regarded, community-run Chalalán Ecolodge.
4 WEEKS
RurrenabaqueTrinidad
Santa Cruz
San Ignaciode Moxos
El Porvenir
ParqueNacionalMadidi Reserva de la
Biosféra y EstaciónBiológica del Beni
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Exploring the Amazon
26
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This trip will get you away from the main tourist track and into Bolivia’s warm south-ern comforts. Along the way, there are a few hiking options, interesting cultural centers and energetic cityscapes.
Start with a few days of partying in Santa Cruz, Bolivia’s second city. It’s great fun just wandering around the streets as you soak up camba (lowland) culture. Next make your way out of the city for a week-long dusty adventure through the Jesuit Mission Circuit, a series of beautiful missions where baroque music and faith meld with the chilled-out culture of the Guaraní. Cruise back through Santa Cruz on your way to the pre-Inca ruins at Samaipata and wildlife watching at Parque Nacional & Área de Uso Múltiple Amboró. From the park (backtracking via Samaipata and Santa Cruz), make your way down to the relaxed wine-country town of Tarija. After a few days in town, you can customize the tail end of your adventure, with hikes along the Inca Trail in the Reserva Biológica Cordillera de Sama or in any of the numerous national parks and reserves unique to the Chaco region.
3 WEEKS Southeast Bolivia
Trapped between the heights of the Andes and the Amazon, this fascinating area is a trekking, climbing, hiking and biking wonderland.
Getting here is half the fun. Trekkers can start from outside La Paz, traveling by foot via the Takesi or Choro treks into the heart of the Yungas. You can also get into the Southern Yungas on a butt-busting daylong mountain-bike ride down the World’s Most Dangerous Road. Be sure to spend a few days at the end of your descent in the pleasant Yungas villages of Coroico or Chulumani, both of which offer plenty of day hikes, swimming options and a chilled-out traveler vibe. From there, it’s back to the capital and on to climbing and trekking in the Cordillera Real, stopping in the cool-air, soft-spirited Andean town of Sorata. Adventurers could take on any number of treks from Sorata. There are also good mountain-bike adventures or you can head up to the glaciated peaks of the Cordillera. If you have the time, extend your journey to the seldom-visited Cor-dillera Apolobamba for visits with lost tribes, wildcat miners and loads of deep wilderness trekking.
2 WEEKS
BOLIVIa
ParaGUaY
CHILe
PerU
Sorata
Coroico
SamaipataSanta Cruz
Tarija
LA PAZ
CordilleraApolobamba
Chulumani
Cordillera Real
JesuitMissionCircuit
Parque Nacional &Área de Uso
Múltiple AmboróÉ
É
Reserva BiológicaCordillera de Sama
É
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É
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É
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The Cordilleras & YungasSoutheast Bolivia
The Cordilleras & Yungas
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OUR READERS Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Alain Verhasselt, Aleksandra Ur-banowska, Dennis Hamann, Eileen Finkelstein, Filip Vandamme, Gaëtan Coatanroch, Hannako Bakker, Iris Bos, Jeanne Marie Thomas, Johan-na Grau, Kim de Oude, Laura Halbach, Lucie Dabos, Mariska Helmus, Michael Bech, Nicolas Combremont, Ole Brederlau, Olga Cirera, Peter Dullnig, Ramón de la Rosa Steinz, Robert Mar-tyniecki, Sean Romero, Siu-yin Cheung, Stela Prodanovic, Susan Spronk, Tim Laslavic
WRITER THANKS Isabel AlbistonHuge thanks to everyone who helped me on the road, especially Juan Carlos Vargas, Natasha Gamboa, Daniel Cahill, Paula Nina, Leo Lino, Gonzalo Sandoval, Goyo Surriable, Sandra Gilbert, Inez Daza, Javier Huarachi and Nick, and the many others whose names I don’t recall. Gracias also to Bailey Freeman, Michael Grosberg and Mark Johanson. It was a great project to work on!
Michael GrosbergI’m so grateful to all of the many people who helped me along the road, including Hector, Jaime and Edith in Tarija; Daniel, Zulma and Bismark from Condor Trekkers in Sucre; Rene from El Mundo Verde Travel in Cochabamba; and Vincent and Julia from Valle de los Condores; as well as other travelers along the road. And always to Rosie and Carly and Boone for their support.
Mark JohansonMuchas gracias to all the Bolivian people who warmed my heart and filled my belly. Thanks to Felipe Bascuñán for allowing me to be gone from home for so many weeks and to Tomas Sivila, María Fernanda Alandia, Alex Villca Lima-co, Raul Mendoza, Augusto Aruquipa Coromi, Rosa Maria Ruiz and Jose Antonio Diaz for being fountains of knowledge along the way.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44.Cover photograph: Murals and women wearing traditional clothing, Aldo Pavan/4Corners ©
Behind the Scenes
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
BEHIN
D THE SCEN
ES
THIS BOOK This 10th edition of Lonely Planet’s Bolivia guidebook was researched and written by Isabel Albiston, Michael Gros-berg and Mark Johanson. The previous edition was written by Michael Grosberg, Brian Kluep-fel and Paul Smith. The 8th edition was written by Greg Benchwick and Paul Smith, and Professor Henry S Klein
was a contributing author. This guidebook was produced by the following:Destination Editor Bailey FreemanSenior Product Editor Saralinda TurnerRegional Senior Cartographer Corey HutchisonProduct Editor Hannah CartmelBook Designer Jessica Rose
Assisting Editors Janet Austin, Michelle Bennett, Jacqueline Danam, Victoria Harrison, Kellie Langdon, Jodie Martire, Susan Paterson, Maja VatrićAssisting Cartographers Laura Bailey, Anita BanhCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Shona Gray, Anne Mason, Jenna Myers, Kathryn Rowan
376
Index
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
4WD tours 32
AAbra Chucura 121accessible travel 344accommodations 344-5,
see also individual locations
activities 20-1, see also individual activities
addresses 348adventure sports 18, 28-34Afro-Bolivian people 127Aiquile 198air travel 352-3, 354alpacas 157Amazon Basin 44, 286-318,
288-9accommodations 286climate 286food 286history 287travel seasons 286travel to/from 287, 290
Ancohuma 112Andean condors 250animal sanctuaries
La Senda Verde Wildlife Sanctuary 114
animals 340api con pastel 62, 63archaeological sites, see
also Inca sites, ruinsBatea Q’ocha Rock
Paintings 199Coquesa 169Dinosaur Tracks 197El Fuerte 270Incallajta 195-6Llanos de Moxos 306
Parque Cretácico (Cal Orck’o) 204
Pukara de Monterani 154Quila Quila 218-31Sea Fossils 198-9Tiwanaku 84-7
area codes 349Área Natural de Manejo
Integrado Nacional Apolobamba 139-40
Argentina, travel to 248art 19artisan crafts 18-19Atlantis 103ATMs 347Aucapata 134-5Aymará people 87, 90, 336
language 369religious beliefs 334
BBarba Azul Reserve 314basilicas, see churches,
basilicas, chapels & convents
beachesCha’lla (Isla del Sol) 100Copacabana Beach 91La Pajcha 272Río Surutú 266Santiago de Okola (Isla
de la Luna) 105Benedición De Movilidades
95biking, see cyclingbiodiversity 303bird-watching 34, 312
Area Protegida Municipal Aquicuana 316
Bird Bolivia 259Conservación Loros
Bolivia 309Lomas de Arena 261Reserva Biológica
Cordillera de Sama 250
boat travel 129, 354, see also kayaking
boat tripsPuerto Villarroel 293Trinidad 309, 311
books 320border crossings 352, 353
Argentina 178, 248Brazil 284, 317Chile 167Paraguay 251
Brazil, travel to 284, 317budget 15Buena Vista 266-7bus travel 353-4business hours 347-8
CCala Cala 153camelids 157camiones 357Candelaria 207canoeing, see white-water
raftingcanyoneering 34, 57, 116,
290canyons
Cañón de Palca 83-4Cañón de Torotoro 198Cañón del Duende 178El Vergel 198Pilcomayo Canyon 252Valle de la Luna 81Valle de las Ánimas 83
car travel 32, 354, 356-7Carnaval 20
Oruro 151Santa Cruz 259Tarija 244
Cassidy, Butch 176castles & palaces
Palacio Portales 184Palacio Quemado
(Burned Palace) 48, 55
cathedralsCochabamba 185Concepción 280Copacabana 91La Paz 55Potosí 223Riberalta 316Sucre 203Tarija 237Trinidad 309
cavesCaverna de Umajalanta
198Cavernas del Repechón
292Gruta de Lourdes 99Gruta de San Pedro 130Icla 207Las Cuevas de
Miserendino 279Las Cuevas del Rio San
Cristobal 130cell phones 14, 350Cementerio de Trenes 159cemeteries
Cementerio Municipal 205
La Paz Cemetery 49Central Highlands 43, 179-
231, 180accommodations 179climate 179food 179history 180-1travel seasons 179
Cerro Chacaltaya 84Cerro Rico 224, 228Chachacomani 113Chaco, the, see South
Central Bolivia & the Chaco
Chaguaya 250-1Cha’lla 102Cha’llapampa 102Chapacos people 239, 244
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
37 7IN
DEX C
–E
Chapare 290-4charangos 198, 19Charazani 135-8Chichas people 172-3children, travel with 40-1Chile, travel to 167Chipaya people 158, 323,
336Chiquitano people 278,
285, 336Chochís 283chullpas 153Chulumani 124-6churches, basilicas,
chapels & convents, see also cathedrals
Basílica de San Francisco 235
Basílica Menor de San Lorenzo 255
Capilla de Lajas 242Capilla de Nuestra
Señora de Jerusalén 223
Capilla de la Virgen de Guadalupe 203
Capilla Sixtina del Altiplano 153
Colonial Church (Quila Quila) 218
Convento de San Felipe Neri 203
Convento de Santa Teresa (Cochabamba) 184-5, 187
Convento de Santa Teresa (Sucre) 205-6
Iglesia de la Merced 224Iglesia de los Santos
Desposorios 266Iglesia de San Francisco
(La Paz) 49Iglesia de San Francisco
(Sucre) 206Iglesia de San Ignacio
281Iglesia de San Juan 237Iglesia de San Pedro
195Iglesia de San Roque
237Iglesia de San Xavier
279Iglesia de Santa Ana 283Iglesia de Santa Mónica
206Iglesia Indígena de San
Pedro 52Iglesia Parroquial de
S.I. 305
Iglesia y Convento de San Francisco 185
Iglesia y Museo de San Lorenzo de Carangas 223
Jesuit Mission Church (San José de Chiquitos) 284
Jesuit Mission Church (San Miguel de Velasco) 282
Jesuit Mission Church (San Rafael de Velasco) 284
Portada del Beaterio 147
Santuario de la Virgen del Socavón 143
Santuario Mariano de la Torre 283
Templo Nuestra Señora de la Merced 205
Torre de la Compañía de Jesús 223
cinemasCochabamba 191La Paz 74Oruro 150Potosí 229Santa Cruz 263Sucre 211
climate 14, 20-1, 14 see also individual regions
climbing & mountaineering 28, 29, 31, 58
Ancohuma 112Andes 34Cerro Tunari 194Cordillera Quimsa
Cruz 141Cordillera Real 109-
10, 111Curahuara de Carangas
154La Paz 58, 60Museo Antropológico
Eduardo López Rivas 147
Parque Nacional Sajama 154-5
Sucre 206tours 357-8volcanoes 165
Cobija 318coca 118, 291Cochabamba 181-93, 182
accommodations 186-8drinking & nightlife 191
entertainment 191festivals & events 186food 188-90, 192history 183-4shopping 191sights 184-6tourist information 191-2tours 186travel to/from 193travel within 193
Colchani 168Concepción 280-1Condoriri Massif 111-12conquistadors 324consulates 345convents, see churches,
basilicas, chapels & convents
cooperative mines 224, 228
safety 227Copacabana 90-98, 92, 99
accommodations 94-5border crossings 98drinking & nightlife 97festivals & events 93-4food 96-8history 90-1information 97-8shopping 97sights 91-2tours 92travel to/from 98
Coquesa 169Cordillera Apolobamba
135-41, 136-7Cordillera de los Frailes
214-31, 216-17tours 215
Cordillera Quimsa Cruz 141Cordillera Real 10, 109-
13, 10Cordilleras & Yungas, the
43, 107-41, 108climate 107highlights 108history 109travel seasons 107travel to/from 109-41
Coroico & Yolosa 114-20, 115
accommodations 116-19activities 114-16drinking & nightlife 120food 119-20sights 114tours 116
counterfeits 347courses
language 58, 147, 186, 206, 346
music 58yoga 58
credit cards 347Cristo de la Concordia 184cultural centres
Casa Melchor Pint 255culture 320-1, 331-2Curahuara de Carangas
153-4currency 14cycling 28, 354, see
also mountain bikingCopacabana 94Tarija 238Trinidad 310World’s Most Dangerous
Road 117, 33
Ddance 335-6
Carnaval 151, 244tinku 230
departure tax 353Desierto de Dalí 171Día de los Muertos 64drinking water 360drinks 35-9
Eeastern Bolivian Amazon
307-13economy 320Ekeko 66El Alto 76El Angosto 178El Camino del Oro 128-30el chaqueo 342El Choro trek 120-2, 121El Valle de la Concepción
246-8, 247electricity 346embassies 345environment 339-42environmental hazards
362environmental issues
154, 340el chaqueo 342endangered species 341Lago Poopó 154Lake Titicaca 90Río Choqueyapu 64
378
IND
EX E–J
events, see festivals & events
exchange rates 15
Ffestivals & events 20-1,
337, see also religious festivals
Aymará 61, 87Cochabamba 186Copacabana 93-4El Valle de la
Concepción 247food 291La Paz 61-2Mizque 197music 239, 259, 305Pachamama 225Parque Nacional
Torotoro 199Potosí 225-6rodeo 240San Ignacio de Moxos
305-6Santa Cruz 259Sucre 206-7Tarabuco 213Tarija 239-40theater 259Tiwanaku 87Totora 196Trinidad 310Uyuni 159Vallegrande 275Villa Tunari 291wine 247, 239
Fiesta de la Cruz 20Fiesta de La Virgen de
Candelaria 20, 23Fiesta del Santo Patrono
de Moxos 21fishing 252, 290, 293,
305, 316films 320flamingos 139, 154, 170,
248, 2food 35-9, 346, 37, 39forests 156four-wheel driving 32
Ggalleries, see museums &
galleries
gardens, see parks & gardens
geology 340-1geysers
Parque Nacional Sajama 155
Sol de Mañana 170Gran Chiquitania,
see Santa Cruz & Gran Chiquitania
Gran Poder 21guanacos 157Guanay 128Guaraní people 258, 333,
336Guayaramerín 314-15Guevara, Che 274, 275, 277
Ruta del Che 276
Hhaciendas
El Picacho 235Hacienda Cayara 231Hacienda El Cafetal 266La Posada del Inca 104Samay Huasi 219
health 359-63Heyerdahl, Dr Thor 104hiking & trekking 10, 18,
28-9, 31Ancohuma Overnight
Hike 112Chachacomani 113Copacabana 94, 99-100Condoriri Massif
Overnight Hike 111-12Coroico & Yolosa 114-15Cordillera Apolobamba
135Cordillera de los Frailes
214-18Cordillera Quimsa
Cruz 141Cordillera Real 10,
109-13, 10El Camino del Oro
128-30El Choro Trek 120-2, 121Huayna Potosí Overnight
Hike 110-11Illimani Overnight Hike
112-13Irupana to Ocabaya Day
Hike 126-7Isla de la Luna 105Isla del Sol 100La Paz 58, 60Lagunillas to Agua
Blanca Trek 139-40
Parque Nacional & Área de Uso Múltiple Amboró 268-9
Parque Nacional Carrasco 293
Parque Nacional Sajama 155
Reserva Biológica Cordillera de Sama 248-9
Reserva de la Biosferay Estación Biológicadel Beni 304
Santiago de Chiquitos 279
Sorata 131Sucre 206Takesi Trek 122-3, 124tours 257-8Yunga Cruz Trek 123-4
historic buildingsCasa de las Tres
Portadas 224Castillo de Moisés
Navajas 238El Cabildo (Potosí) 221Los Ingenios 225Palacio Consistorial 195Villa Albina 188
history 18, 322-30Hospital Señor de Malta
274-5Parque Histórico Santa
Cruz la Vieja 285Quebrada del Churo 277
hitchhiking 357holidays 348-9horseback riding 34
Reserva de la Biosferay Estación Biológicadel Beni 304
Tupiza 173-4hot springs
Parque Nacional Sajama 155
Tarapaya 226Termas de Charazani
Phutina 137Termas de Obrajes 153Termas de Polques 170
Huatajata 105-6Huayculli 194-5Huayna Potosí 110-11
IIcla 207Illimani 112-13, 19immigration 352Inca empire 323-4
Incallajta 195-6Inca sites, see also
archaeological sites, ruins
Copacabana 91El Fuerte 270-1Incallajta 195-6Isla del Sol 102Llamachaki 199Templo de las Vírgenes
105independence 326Independence Day 21indigenous culture 333-6indigenous reserves
TCO Tsimané 304indigenous groups 336,
see also individual groups
Chichas 172-3Chipaya 158, 323, 336Chiquitanos 278, 285,
336Guaraní 258, 333, 336Kallawaya 137, 138,
335, 336Tacana 294, 299, 302
infectious diseases 359insurance 346, 359internet access 346internet resources 15,
349, 362Iskanwaya 134-5Isla de la Luna 100, 105Isla del Sol 10, 100-5, 101,
5, 10accommodations 102-4food 104-5travel to/from 104travel within 105
Isla Incahuasi 167-8Isla Kalahuta 106Isla Pariti 106Islas de Wiñaymarka 106itineraries 22-7, 22, 24,
25, 26, 27
Jjaguars 281Jal’qa people 218Jardín Botánico 65Jesuit Mission Churches
San José de Chiquitos 284
San Miguel de Velasco 282
San Rafael de Velasco 284
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
379IN
DEX J–
MJesuit Mission Circuit 13,
278-85, 13
KKalasasaya 86-7Kallawaya people 137, 138,
335, 336kayaking 32-4, see also
white-water rafting, individual locations
LLa Ceja 57La Festividad de Nuestro
Señor Jesús del Gran Poder 21
La Higuera 276-7Lago Poopó 154Lake Titicaca 42, 88-106,
89, 2accommodations 88climate 88food 88highlights 89history 89travel seasons 88travel to/from 90
lakes, see also Lake Titicaca
La Angostura 185-6Laguna Colorada 170Laguna Hedionda 170, 2Laguna Huañakota 155Laguna Isirere 305Laguna Normandia 303Laguna Verde 171Lagunas de Kari Kari
226San Jacinto Reservoir
236-7Tajzara Lagoons 248
La Paz 11, 42, 46-87, 47, 50-1, 54-5, 61, 83, 11, 62, 63
accommodations 46, 64-8
activities 57-8climate 46courses 58drinking & nightlife 72-3entertainment 73-5festivals & events 61-4food 46, 68-72highlights 47history 48information 76-9internet resources 79
markets 62-3, 62, 63orientation 75planning 48safety 77shopping 75-6sights 48-57travel seasons 46travel to/from 79-81travel within 80-1walking tours 59, 59
languages 14Aymará 369courses 147, 346Quechua 369Spanish 364-73
Las Islas Flotantes 94legal matters 346LGBT+ travelers 346-7lithium 170llamas 157, 41Llanos de Moxos 306lomas 306, 309lookouts, see viewpointsLos Lípez 169-71lustrabotas 72
Mmacaws 277, 312, 9maps 347Marka Pampa 103markets 11, 62-3
El Mercado de los Campesinos 235
La Cancha 185Mercado 16 de Julio 63Mercado Camacho 62-3Mercado Central
(Potosí) 228-9, 37Mercado de las Brujas
63, 63Mercado Lanza 62, 62Mercado Negro 62, 17Mercado Uruguay 63Sucre 212Tarabuco Sunday Market
213measures 348Mecapaca 82medical services 359Mercado Central (Potosí)
228-9, 37Mercado de las Brujas
63, 63Mercado Lanza 62, 62mestiza dress 335Mi Teleférico 78
micros 357minibuses 357mining 129, 143, 170, 224
environmental issues 321
nationalisation of 320tours 224, 227, 228
Mizque 196-7mobile phones 14, 350Mojeño people 336money 14, 15, 17, 346, 347monuments
Cerro Corazón de Jesús 173
Cristo de la Concordia 184
Faro de Conchupata 147Monumento Escultérico
Virgen del Socavón 143
Morales, Evo 321, 329-30coca and 109, 118indigenous people
and 333national psyche and 331
motorcycle travel 354, 356-7
mountain biking 31-2, see also cycling
Cerro Chacaltaya 84Coroico & Yolosa 115-16Huayna Potosí 110La Paz 57-8Mizque 197Sorata 130-2World’s Most Dangerous
Road 117, 23mountaineering,
see climbing & mountaineering
mountains 339-40Cerro Calvario 91
Muela del Diablo 81-2museums & galleries 258
Calle Jaén Museums 53Casa de la Cultura
Simón Patiño 146Casa de la Libertad 201Casa Dorada 237Casa Nacional de la
Moneda 221-2Fundación Solón 49Mamani Mamani Gallery
53Municipal Museum 173Museo Arqueología y
Antropológico de los Andes Meridionales 159
Museo Arqueológico 271Museo Arqueológico de
la UMSS 185Museo Casa Arte Taller
Cardozo Velasquez 147Museo Casa Natal
German Busch 279Museo Cerámico 87Museo Comunal La
Higuera 277Museo de Arqueología y
Paleontología 237Museo de Arte
Contemporáneo 255Museo de Arte Indígena
201Museo de Etnografía y
Folklore 53Museo de Historia
Natural Alcide d’Orbigny 185
Museo de Historia Regional 255
Museo de Instrumentos Musicales 55
Museo de Kusijata 91Museo de la Coca 49Museo de la Recoleta
203-4Museo de la Revolución
Nacional 55-6Museo de Mojos 305Museo de Santa Clara
205Museo de Textiles
Andinos Bolivianos 53Museo del Charango
198Museo del Che 274Museo del Poncho 91Museo del Tesoro 201Museo Eclesiástico de
Sucre 203Museo Elsa Paredes de
Salazar 49Museo Etnoarqueológico
Kenneth Lee 307-8Museo Ferrocarril 159Museo Franciscano
Fray Francisco Miguel Mari 235
Museo Gutiérrez Valenzuela 205
Museo Ictícola 308Museo Lítico
Monumental 85Museo Militar 153-4Museo Misional (San
Xavier) 279Museo Misional
(Concepción) 280
380
IND
EX M–
R
museums & galleries continued
Museo Misional de Ignacio de Velasco 282
Museo Nacional de Etnografía y Folklore 201
Museo Nacional de Arqueología Tiwanaku 56
Museo Nacional del Arte 53
Museo Pacha Uta 91Museo Sacro, Folklórico,
Arqueológico y Minero 146
Museo San Francisco 49Museos Universitarios
205Museo Tambo
Quirquincho 49, 52Museo y Convento de
San Francisco 223Museo y Convento de
Santa Teresa 222-3Museum (San José de
Chiquitos) 285Pachamama Wasi 199Pipiripi 55Salar Galería de Arte 49Templete Semisub-
terráneo & Museo al Aire Libre 56-7
music 320, 335, 337-8Afro-Bolivian saya 127baroque music festival
305Festival de Música Misi-
ones de Chiquitos 259instruments 18, 75, 239 La Paz 73-4Las Flaviadas 73Museo de Instrumentos
Musicales 55peñas 73-4Sucre 211Tarija 239, 244
Nnational parks & nature
reserves 342Amazon Basin 287Area Protegida
Municipal Aquicuana 316
Barba Azul Reserve 314Lomas de Arena 261Parque Nacional &
Área de Uso Múltiple Amboró 267-9, 267
Parque Nacional Carrasco 292-3
Parque Nacional Madidi 9, 301-2, 9
Parque Nacional Sajama 154-6, 155, 23, 35
Parque Nacional Serranía del Aguaragüe 252
Parque Nacional Torotoro 197-201
Parque Nacional Tunari 194
Reserva Biológica Cordillera de Sama 248-50
Reserva de la Biosfera y Estación Biológica del Beni 303-5
Reserva Nacional de Fauna Andina Eduardo Avaroa 170
Reserva Nacional de Flora y Fauna Tariquía 250
Reserva Privada de Patrimonio Natural de Corbalán 252
Santuario Chuchini 307Serere Eco Reserve 300
nature 339-42newspapers 348northern Bolivian Amazon
313-18Núñez del Prado, Marina
73nuns 187
Oobservatories
Santa Ana Astronomical Observatory 235
opening hours 347-8Oruro 143-52, 146-7
accommodations 148-9drinking & nightlife 150entertainment 150food 149-50shopping 150-1sights 143-7tours 147travel to/from 152travel within 152
outdoor adventures 28-34
PPachamama 90, 225-6,
334Padcaya 250-1palaces, see castles &
palacesParaguay, travel to 251parks & gardens
Biocentro Güembé 261Jardín Botánico 65, 261Parque Bolívar 205Parque El Arenal 258Parque Pantanal 308Paseo Turístico La
Costanera 316Parque Nacional & Área de
Uso Múltiple Amboró 267-9, 267
Parque Nacional Carrasco 292-3
Parque Nacional Madidi 9, 301-2, 9
Parque Nacional Sajama 154-6, 155, 23, 35
Parque Nacional Torotoro 197-201
Parque Nacional Tunari 194
peñasLa Paz 73-4Potosí 229
photography 348planning 16-17
Bolivia’s regions 42-4calendar of events 20-1children, travel with 40-1itineraries 22-7
plants 341-2population 321post 348Potosí 13, 219-31, 220-
1, 13accommodations 226-7drinking & nightlife 229entertainment 229festivals & events 225-6food 227-9history 219-21shopping 229sights 221-5tourist information
229-31tours 225travel to/from 231travel within 231
pozasVilla Tunari 290
propane heaters 345protests 77, 184, 321,
332, 349public holidays 348-9Puerto Villarroel 293-4Pujllay 20Pulacayo 166
QQuebrada Palala 177Quebrada Palmira 178Quechua people 336
language 369
Rradio 348rafting 32-3, 116
tours 60Villa Tunari 290-1
religion 321, 332religious festivals
Alasitas Festival 93Exaltación de la Santa
Vera Cruz 226Festival de San Antonio
291Fiesta de la Cruz 93Fiesta de la Virgen de
Candelaria 93Fiesta de la Virgen de
Guadalupe 207Fiesta de la Virgen de
Urkupiña 186Fiesta de las Flores 240Fiesta de Moxos 305Fiesta de San Roque
240Fiesta del Señor
Santiago 199Día de los Muertos (La
Paz) 64La Festividad de Nuestro
Señor Jesús del Gran Poder 64
Santa Veracruz Tatala 186
Semana Santa (Copacabana) 93
Todos Santos 207Reserva Biológica
Cordillera de Sama 248-50
Reserva de la Biosfera y Estación Biológica del Beni 303-5
Riberalta 315-18river dolphins 340, 341
Puerto Villarroel 293Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
381IN
DEX R
–TReserva de la Biosfera y
Estación Biológica del Beni 304
tours 295Trinidad 307, 309
river travel 129, 309, 311rivers
Amazon 26, 311Inter-Andean Valleys
240Río Choqueyapu 64Río Coroico 116Río Huarinilla 116Río Surutú 266
rock climbing, see climbing
rodeo 240ruins 94, see also
archaeological sites, Inca sites
Akapana Pyramid 85Cerro Kopakati 91Chari 137El Fuerte 270Horca del Inca 91Intikala 91Iskanwaya 135Isla de la Luna 105Isla del Sol 100-2Kantatayita 86Llamachaki 199Megaphones 85Puerta del Sol 86Pukara 135Puma Punku 86Putuni 86Templete
Semisubterráneo 86Templo de las Vírgenes
105Tiwanaku 84-7
Rurrenabaque 129, 294-301, 296-7
Ssafety 349Salar de Chiguana 169-70Salar de Coipasa 163, 168Salar de Uyuni 9, 167-9,
168, 8, 30tours 162-3, 164
salt flats 167salt hotels 169Samaipata 11, 269-74,
270, 11Sampaya 98San Borja 302-3
San Cristóbal 171San Ignacio de Moxos
305-7San Ignacio de Velasco
281-2San José de Chiquitos
284-5San Lorenzo 242San Miguel de Velasco
282-3San Rafael de Velasco
283-4San Xavier 279-80San Xavier 279-80Santa Ana de Velasco 283Santa Ana de Yacuma
313-14Santa Cruz 255-65Santa Cruz & Gran
Chiquitania 44, 253-85, 254, 256-7
accommodations 253, 259-60
climate 253day trips 261drinking & nightlife 262entertainment 262-3festivals & events 259food 253, 260-2orientation 263shopping 263sights 255-8tourist information
263-4tours 258-9travel seasons 253travel to/from 264-5travel within 265
Santa Teresa convent 184-5, 187
Santiago de Okola 105Semana Santa 20Serere Eco Reserves 300shopping 349smoking 348snakes 363sopa de maní 39, 243, 37Sorata 130-4, 132South Central Bolivia &
the Chaco 44, 232-52, 233
accommodations 232climate 232food 232travel seasons 232
Southern Altiplano 43, 142-78, 144-5
climate 142
highlights 144-5history 143travel seasons 142travel to/from 143
Southwest Circuit tours 162-3, 174
Spanish conquest 324-5Spanish language 364-8sports 332statue of Christ 121Sucre 11, 201-13, 202-3, 11
accommodations 207-9drinking & nightlife
210-11entertainment 211festivals & events 206-7food 209-10shopping 211sights 201-6tourist information 212tours 206travel to/from 212-13travel within 213
Sud Lípez Lakes 171swimming
Buena Vista 266Cañon de Torotoro 198Club Náutico 316El Cairo 266El Chorro 294El Encuentro 114El Vagante 114El Vergel 198Inter-Andean Valleys
240La Pajcha 272Laguna Isirere 305Paso Retamas 129Piscina El Mirador 294Riberalta 316Rurrenabaque 294Villa Tunari 290
TTacana people 294, 299,
302Takesi Trek 122-3, 124-5tap water 360Tarabuco 213-14Tarata 194-5Tarija 12, 234-46, 236-7,
247, 12accommodations 241-2activities 238-9drinking & nightlife
244, 245
festivals & events 239-40
food 242-4history 234-5sights 235-8tourist information 245tours 239travel to/from 245-6travel within 246
taxis 357TCO Tsimané 304teleféricos
Cochabamba 184La Paz 78Oruro 143
telephone services 349-50Termas de Obrajes 153Termas de Polques 170, 30textiles 334-5theaters
International Theater Festival 259
Teatro Adela Zumudio 191
Teatro al Aire Libre Mauro Nuñez 211
Teatro del Charango 74Teatro Gran Mariscal de
Ayacucho 211Teatro Municipal Alberto
Saavedra Pérez 74Teatro NUNA 74
time 350Tinku 230Tiquipaya 196Tiwanaku 12, 84-7, 12toilets 350Totora 196totora-reed boats 104tourist information 350tours 357-8
4WD 32bird-watching 259Copacabana 93Coroico 116Huatajata 105-6jungle 295La Paz 60-1pampas 295Salar de Uyuni 162-3Sorata 131-2Southwest Circuit
162-3, 174wildlife watching 309,
310wine tours 239Yolosa 116
382
IND
EX T–Z
train travel 358travel to/from Bolivia
352-4travel within Bolivia 354-8trekking see hiking &
trekkingTrinidad 307-13, 308trufis 357Tupac Amaru, Andrés
130, 324Tupiza 12, 171-7, 172, 12TV 348
UUyuni 159-67, 160
accommodations 160-3border crossings 167drinking & nightlife 164festivals & events 159food 164medical services 165shopping 164-5sights 159tours 159travel to/from 166
Vvaccination 17
Brazil, for 284, 317, 353Valle de la Luna 81Valle de las Ánimas 83-4Vallegrande 274-6Valles de Rocas 171
vicuñas 157viewpoints 81
Cerro de la Cruz 173Convento de San Felipe
Neri 203El Sillar 177Mirador Laikakota 55Mirador Loma de San
Juan 235Mirador Palla Khasa 102Mirador Wila Kollu 130Observatorio de Aves
248Parque Histórico Santa
Cruz la Vieja 285Plaza del Folklore
Stairway 147Tupac Katari Mirador 57
Villa Albina 188Villa Tunari 290-2villages
Chari 137Colchani 168San Buenaventura 294Sicuani 99Titicachi 98Totaizal 304Yampupata 99Yumani 100
Villamontes 251-2visas 14, 350-1volcanoes 165volunteering 351
Wwalking, see hiking &
trekkingwalking tours
La Paz 59water 360waterfalls
Cataratas del Suton 285Chorros de Jurina 240Coimata Falls 240El Chorro 294El Chorro Grande 252Incacancha 140Inter-Andean Valleys
240La Colina 279La Pajcha 272Las Cuevas 272
weather 14, 20-1, 14 see also individual regions
weights 348western Bolivian Amazon
294-307white-water rafting 32-4,
116wildlife 340-2wildlife reserves
Parque Machía 290wildlife watching 18, 34
Riberalta 316Tarija 238Trinidad 309Yunga Cruz Trek 123
wine 12, 249El Valle de la Concepción
246-8, 247festival 247tasting 12, 12tours 239
work 351World’s Most Dangerous
Road 117, 33
YYampupata 98-100yellow fever 361-2, see
also vaccinationsyoga 57, 58, 238Yolosa, see Coroico &
YolosaYunga Cruz Trek 123-4Yungas, the see Cordilleras
& Yungas, the
Zziplining
Rurrenabaque 294zoos
Zoo El Refugio 271Zoológico Municipal
Fauna Sudamericana 258
383
Walking Tour detourWalking Tour
Path/Walking Trail
BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin
Sento Hot Baths/Onsen
ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight
DivingBodysurfing
Sleeping
Eating
Entertainment
Shopping
Drinking & NightlifeCafe
BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information
AirportBorder crossingBus
CyclingFerry
Underground station
MonorailParking
Metro station
Petrol stationSubway/Subte stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram
Other Transport
LighthouseHut/Shelter
Beach
LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall
River, CreekIntermittent River
Swamp/Mangrove
Reef
Canal
Water
Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake
Glacier
Mudflat
Beach/Desert
Airport/Runway
Cemetery (Christian)
Cemetery (Other)
Park/Forest
Sportsground
Sight (Building)
International
DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall
Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village
State/Province
CampingHut/Shelter
Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour
SkiingSnorkelingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity
LaneTertiary
TollwayFreewayPrimary
StepsPlaza/Mall
Pedestrian overpass
Secondary
Unsealed roadRoad under construction
Tunnel
Cable car/Funicular
Gate
Sights
Activities,Courses & Tours
Sleeping
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
Shopping
Information Routes
Boundaries
Hydrography
Areas
Geographic
Population
Transport
Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book
Map Legend
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Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 98310th edition – June 2019ISBN 978 1 786574 732© Lonely Planet 2019 Photographs © as indicated 201910 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
Isabel AlbistonSouthern Altiplano, Santa Cruz & Gran Chiquitania After six years working for the Daily Telegraph in London, Isabel left to spend more time on the road. A job as writer for a magazine in Sydney, Australia, was followed by a four-month overland trip across Asia and five years living and work-ing in Buenos Aires, Argentina. Isabel started writing for Lonely Planet in 2014 and has contributed to 10 guidebooks. She’s currently based in Madrid, Spain. Isabel
also wrote the Plan, Understand and Survival Guide chapters.
Michael GrosbergCentral Highlands, South Central Bolivia & the Chaco Michael has worked on over 50 Lonely Planet guidebooks. Other international roles have included development work on Rota in the western Pacific, and teach-ing in Quito, Ecuador. He has also worked in South Africa, where he investigated and wrote about political violence, and trained newly elected government repre-sentatives. He received a Masters in Comparative Literature, and has taught
literature and writing as an adjunct professor.
Mark Johanson Lake Titicaca, The Cordilleras & Yungas, La Paz & Around, Amazon Basin Mark Johanson grew up in Virginia and has called five different countries home over the last decade while circling the globe reporting for British newspapers (The Guardian), American magazines (Men’s Journal) and global media outlets (CNN, BBC). When not on the road, you’ll find him gazing at the Andes from his current home in Santiago, Chile. Follow his adventures at www.markjohanson.com
OUR WRITERS
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