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306 A G U I D E T O S O U T H E A S T E R N A N A T O L I A

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fi›rnak


VegetationŞırnak is mainly covered bysteppe vegetation, and has acontinental climate. There are afew scattered forests in themountains. Hardy plants that cansurvive with little moisture canbe found below the forestedregions. Alpine meadows coverthe upper regions of the

mountains near Beytüşşebap andUludere. The region’s principaltree is the oak.


fi›rnak at a GlanceThe province of Şırnak is located at the easternmost end of Southeastern Anatolia near both theSyrian and Iraqi borders. Apart from this border region, Şırnak is largely mountainous, and is setat the foot of the 2114-meter Mount Cudi. An exquisitely beautiful cave that can accommodateliterally hundreds of people lies at the summit of Mount Cudi; boasting historic ruins, this caveis an important natural attraction of the region. According to local legend, Şırnak was foundedas a summer settlement by the sons of Noah after the legendary Flood. The city was originallyknown as Şehr-i Nuh, then as Şerneh and finally referred to by its current name, Şırnak. InOttoman times, Şırnak was a village under the jurisdiction of Cizre; in 1913, it was upgraded toa district of the province of Siirt. Finally, in 1990, the city of Şırnak and its environs weredeclared an administrative province of Turkey. Şırnak has experienced large-scale migration toTurkey’s major cities, and the remaining locals largely earn aliving by farming and breeding livestock.

Mountains andRiversMost of the province is coveredby high mountains that are partof Southeastern Taurus mountainrange. Mount Cudi is the mostimportant mountain in theregion. Other important peaksinclude Küpeli Mountain,Kelmehmet Mountain, TanintaninMountain, Namaz Mountain andthe Altın Mountains. On a north-south and east-west axis, theprovince is divided into a riverbasin that forms a catchmentarea for all the tributaries of theTigris. The most important ofthese are the Kizilsu, Hezil andHabur rivers.

Mount Cudi and the Legend ofNoah’s ArkThe 2114-meter Mount Cudistands to the south of the city.According to local legend,Mount Cudi – rather than themore commonly cited MountArarat – is home to Noah’s Ark.The legend relates that Şırnak

was established by Noah’s sonsas a summer settlement after theFlood. The city’s name is acombination of ‘Şır’ meaningcity, and ‘Nak’ meaning Noah.Together, the name Şırnak meansCity of Noah.

A view of Şırnak with MountCudi in the background (left).The Ceylani Mosque (above).

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Provincial Population: 353,197 according to the 2000 census

Central City Population: 52,743Altitude: 1380 meters above sea level

Area: 7,172 square kilometersNumber of Districts and Villages:

6 districts, 137 villages, 64 hamletsNeighboring Provinces:

Mardin to the west, Siirt to the north, Hakkari to thewest, Batman to the northwest, Van to the northeast,

Iraq and Syria to the south

ID CARD

Districts CizreWith the rise of Islam, the citywas given the Arabic name‘Cezire’, meaning island.Following the establishment ofthe Turkish Republic, the citybecame known as Cizre.According to local legend,Noah’s Ark landed on MountCudi and the prophet and hisfamily settled in Cizre.

İdilİdil’s history dates back to thesecond millennia BC. İdil wasdeclared a village in 1924 andbecame a district of Mardin in1937.

SilopiIn 1960, Silopi was a part of theprovince Mardin; in 1990, itcame under the jurisdiction ofthe newly created province ofŞırnak.

UludereThe district is named after theUludere river, which runsthrough it. Its history dates backto the first millennium BC.Uludere became a district in1957, and came under thejurisdiction of Şırnak in 1990.

ValleysTigris Valley: The valley coversthe regional border nearKoçtepe, and joins the HaburValley in Cizre before becomingSyrian territory. Kızılsu Valley: The valley beginsin the southern foothills of YassıMountain and then opens out tothe Tigris Valley in the east. Anarrow valley with steep walls,its central section iscomparatively broad. Behram Valley: The BehramValley draws a wide arc from thesoutheast to the southwest andmerges with the Habur Valley onthe Iraqi border.Habur Valley: This deep valleystarts to the south of the NerdüşPlateau. From Beytüşşebap, itheads south and enters Iraqiterritory.

Şırnak’s rivers are tributaries ofthe Tigris.



Nomads and Life on the PlateauThe nomadic people of Şırnak are at one with nature, spendingthe summers in the cool, verdant plateaus and winters in thewarmer lowland plains. They live in tents, and earn a living bybreeding livestock - moving wherever their livestock can findgrazing. In order to avoid interrupting their children’seducation, they only migrate during school holidays. One ofthe primary occupations of nomadic women is weavingcarpets and kilims. They wash the wool, spin it into yarn, andcolor it with natural dyes obtained from the roots of a varietyof plants that grow on the plateaus. For hundreds of years, thewomen have expressed their culture through the carpets andkilims woven from these handspun yarns. Near the end of thesummer on the plateau, the nomads stock and prepareprovisions for the coming winter. In recent years, the numberof people leading a nomadic lifestyle has fallen dramatically,due both to the effects of terrorism and for economic reasons.Many have abandoned this millennia-old tradition and adopteda permanent home in line with modern lifestyles.

The ‘aşiret’ or patriarchal clansystem that played an importantrole throughout centuries ofnomadic life still persists to somedegree today. The insular systemattaches tremendous value to thefamily and has resulted in aclosely knit economic and socialstructure.

An estimated 4000families living in

Southeastern Anatoliaare thought to retain a

nomadic lifestyle. Afterfive months in the

plateaus, they return totheir winter homes as

temperatures drop.



Lamb shearing & the ‘Yayla fienli¤i’The lamb shearing and ‘Yayla Şenliği’ (seasonal migration festivities)are very popular events. The festival plays an important role in localculture, and is one of the most colorful and dynamic examples ofŞırnak’s economic, social and cultural life, featuring local costumes,games, folk songs, spit roasted lambs, and ‘yer sofraları’ (communalmeals eaten sitting on the ground).

StockbreedingStockbreeding is one of the mostimportant sources of income inŞırnak’s economy. The animalsyield meat, milk, milk products,spring wool, leather and fertilizer.The large plateaus and rough, hillyterrain means that mainly sheepand goats are bred. Raisinglivestock is largely the work of thenomadic population. The mostcommon breeds are the AnatolianBlack Goat, sheep and the localbrown Tiftik or Angora Goat.However, due to the fact that thesebreeds are not very productive, aswell as difficulties in findinggrazing, the majority of the incomegained from animal husbandrycomes from the trade of livestock.Breeding livestock also has animpact on the district’s style ofdress and handcrafts.



Women wearingtraditional Şırnak dress


Covered in high mountains, Şırnakboasts an impressive landscape.




Ceylani Mosque


317T H E H I S T O R Y O F fi I R N A K

Legend has it that the city of Şırnak wasa summer settlement established alongwith Cizre after the Flood. However,sixteen prehistoric settlementsdiscovered in and around Şırnak datingmostly from the Copper Age showthat the region’s history datesback much earlier. In the thirdmillennium BC, Şırnak wasruled by the Hurrians. Around2200 BC, it was an importantcenter of the Babylonian Kingdom.The Guti Dynasty established theircapital Bajarkard at Silopi. The area wasruled by the Assyrians in 1260 BC, thenby the Akkadians, and then by theUrartu around 775 BC. The area cameunder Persian rule in 625 BC, andpassed to the Macedonians in 332 BC. The area was ruled by the Seleucidsfrom 320-140 BC, and then by theRomans from 92 BC on. With thedivision of the Roman Empire, Şırnakcame under Byzantine rule. Christianity

spread to Şırnak and its environs in 57AD. However, in 639, under thecaliphate of Umar, the region cameunder Muslim rule. Şırnak was longruled by the Umayyads and Abbasids,and was conquered by the Turks in

1071. Small states such as theArtukids, İnanoğulları and SyrianSeljuks were established duringthis period. The local ‘beylik’(principalities), particularly the

Cizre Bey, held sway over theregion. From the second half of the

13th century, the area was held by theMongols, and by the AkkoyunluTurkmen tribal federation from the early1400s. Most of Şırnak and its environsbecame part of the Ottoman Empire inthe 16th century, with Şırnak as a villageunder the jurisdiction of Cizre. In 1913,Şırnak was upgraded to a district of Siirt,and the city of Şırnak and thesurrounding region became anadministrative province of Turkey in1990.

The History of fi›rnak


319S I G H T S E E I N G I N fi I R N A K

Mosques (Camii),Madrasas andMousoleums (Türbe)Cizre Grand (Ulu) MosqueThe Mosque of the ProphetNoah (Nuh Peygamber)Mir Abdal Mosque, AbdaliyeMadrasa and the Mausoleum ofMem and Zin The K›rm›z› Madrasa and theMausoleum of Ahmed El-Cezeri

Churches (Kilise)The Church of the Virgin Mary(Meryem Ana)St. Jacob’s (Mor Yakup)Monastery

Fortresses (Kale)Cizre Fortress and its wallsThe Fortress of Solomon(Süleyman)

BridgesYasef Bridge (Cizre Bridge)Akabin (Deflt) Bridge Kasrik Bridge

Other SightsThe Museum of Al-JazariGiant Houses (Dirheler)The Finik Ruins The Babil RuinsThe Kasrik RuinsMehmet A¤a Summer Palace(Konak)Mount Cudi

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Cizre GrandMosqueDa¤ Kap›, CizreConverted from a church into amosque in 639, Cizre GrandMosque was restored during theAbbasid period. In 1660, variousadditions were made by Emir AliSencer, the son of the Emir ofCizre, Baz Shah. The minaretdates from 1156 and featuresglazed bricks and ceramic tiles.The main gate is flanked oneither side by three otherentrances, and each gate isinscribed with verses from theKoran. Since 1983, its large irondoor has been in the collection ofthe Topkapı Palace Museum. Thedoor knockers, made by İsmailEbul-iz El Cezeri (Al-Jazari), aredeservedly renowned throughoutthe world for their exquisitecarvings.

The Mosqueof the ProphetNoah Da¤ Kap›, CizreReputed to be the final resting

place of Noah, the mosque isalso an important place ofworship. The original mosquewas built on top of the ruins of achurch, but this was laterdemolished and rebuilt. Noah’scrypt features a beautiful, carvedwooden sarcophagus, while thetomb of Al-Jazari, the famous12th-century scientist, is locatedin the same mosque complex.

Mir AbdalMosque,AbdaliyeMadrasa and the Mausoleumof Mem and Zin On the city walls, Da¤ Kap›,Cizre The Mir Abdal Mosque was builtin 1437 by Emir Abdullah(Abdal) Seyfeddin Bohti, theBey of Cizre. The tombs of thelegendary lovers Mem and Zin,said to have lived in the 15thcentury during the rule of CizreAzizan Bey, are located in acrypt in the south section of themosque, as is the tomb of thevillain of the tale, Bekir. Thestory of Mem and Zin wasimmortalized in verse by thepoet and writer Ahmed Hani(Ehmedê Xanî, or AhmadKhani). The domed mosque ismade of black basalt. Themadrasa consists of a masjid,two classrooms and teachers’cloisters.

The K›rm›z›Madrasa and theMausoleum of

Ahmed El-CezeriOn the city walls on the borderbetween Da¤ Kap› and fiah,CizreThe Kırmızı or ‘red’ madrasawas built in the 15th centuryby Han Şeref Bey II during theCizre Beylik in the style of aSeljuk madrasa with an opencourtyard. It owes its name tothe fact that it was made fromlocal Cizre red bricks. Therectangular courtyard featuresclassrooms, a dining room andteachers’ cloisters on its east,west and north walls, and amasjid to the south. The tombof the writer and poet SheikhAhmed El-Cezeri and thefamily crypts of the emirs ofCizre are located under themasjid. The 2.82x3.78-metermihrab is made of white stone.

The Church of the Virgin Mary‹dil town centerİdil was the third Anatoliansettlement to embraceChristianity after Hatay andMidyat. The foundation of theChurch of the Virgin Mary datesback to 57AD. It was built inthree sections, one of which is inruins.

St. Jacob’sMonasteryThe village of Ö¤ündük in the‹dil districtThought to date from the 600s,the theological college of St.Jacob was used as a church onSundays by the local SyrianOrthodox congregation when theChurch of the Virgin Mary wasfilled to capacity.

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The interior of the dome of CizreGrand Mosque

The minbar of the Mosque of theProphet Noah

The Church of the Virgin Mary



Cizre Fortressand its wallsOn the banks of the Tigris, northof the cityThe Cizre Fortress and wallswere built in the fourthmillennium BC by the GutiEmpire, and repaired by theAssyrians, Babylonians, Medes,Umayyads and Abbasids. TheSeyfiyye Madrasa within thefortress was built by EmirSeyfeddin İbn İzzeddin Bey, andthe mihrab is still standing. Thefortress and walls are made ofblack basalt, and feature imperialbuildings, a masjid, madrasa,dungeon, council room andmilitary barracks. The rocks tothe east of the fortress on thebanks of the Tigris were onceused as an outdoor venue.During the Islamic period, theentire Koran was inscribed onthe walls of the fortress. TheSarayburnu gate was built by theSassanid ruler Ardashir I,featuring lions and inscriptions.Today, the fortress is used as aborder outpost.

The Fortress ofSolomonThe village of Çaltepe, 30kmsouth of Kurtalan in the districtof GüçlükonakLocal legend has it that Solomonbuilt this fortress and the baths atHısta for his beloved wife,Bilqis, the Queen of Sheba. Thefortress is located at theconfluence of the Tigris andBotan rivers. Formerly withinthe borders of Siirt, the regionrecently became a part of thedistrict of Güçlükonak. Thefortress features high walls andtowers that run the length of theriver, serving as a dyke. Thesquare and semi-circular towersmeasure 38.5x5.5 meters high. Astaircase leads down to theriverbank. Rubble, brokenstones, ashlar and bricks wereused in the construction. Today,the fortress is largely in ruins.

Yasef Bridge(Cizre Bridge)Spanning the Tigris, 2 km fromthe city walls, Cizre

An inscription states that thebridge was restored for a secondtime in 1164 by Cemaleddinİsfehani, the vizier of the ZengidDynasty. Its twelve bastions aredecorated with eight reliefs thatdepict the planets. The names ofthe Seven Sleepers are inscribedon the bridge, which is alsoembellished with human andanimal figures.

Akabin (Deflt)BridgeCizre town centerCommissioned by KubbeddinMevdut Han, the son ofİmameddin Zengi, the bridge isalso known as the Fevzi ÇakmakBridge as it was restored on theoccasion of the Turkishnationalist hero’s visit to the city.The bridge is ornamented withlions and goats, and originallyhad four arches. As a result ofrestorations before and after thefoundation of the TurkishRepublic, the bridge lost two ofthese arches.

Kasrik Bridge11 km from Cizre

The original foundations are saidto date from the Guti era, and itwas restored during the time ofEmir Muhammed, the Bey ofCizre.

The Museumof Al-JazariCizre town centerİsmail Ebul-iz El Cezeri, or Al-Jazari, as he is known in theWest, was born in Cizre in 1153.In the second half of the 12thcentury and the first half of the13th, he lived in Diyarbakır,serving the Artukid rulers as thechief engineer of the ArtukidPalace. Al-Jazari is known as thefirst mechanical engineer inhistory to have built automaticmachines, and his works are thecornerstone of currentmechanical engineering andcybernetics. The vast majority ofthe mechanisms he designed andbuilt were powered by pressurefrom water and other sources.Al-Jazari died in 1233, and isburied in the courtyard of theMosque of the Prophet Noah inCizre. In 1996, a gentlemannamed Abdullah Yaşın converteda classroom in the Ebul-iz

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Yasef Bridge (Cizre Bridge)

Kasrik Bridge



primary school into a museumdedicated to Al-Jazari that boasts280 archeological andethnographic works from avariety of periods.

Giant HousesThe Fargoflin plateau in theBeytüflflebap districtThe Dirheler or Dev Evlerimeaning Giant Houses consist offour huge caverns dug into therock, and are thought to havebeen used as watchtowersagainst incursions by theAssyrians, or as shelter duringthe migration to the summerpastures.

The FinikRuinsBetween the villages ofGüçlükonak, Damlarca andEskiyap› Dating back to the 4thmillennium BC, these ruins aresurrounded by mountains and

include a palace, dungeon,cistern and many cave dwellingscarved into the white limestone.To the north of Finik Castle, thefigure of a woman is carved inrelief onto a rock face, whileanother carving of a male andfemale couple standing side byside can be found to thenortheast of the village. A naturallimestone wall runs along theTigris, and traces of other wallscan also be seen. Inside thesewalls are a castle, dungeon,houses and other sections, aswell as a sculptural relief.

The BabilRuinsThe village of Kebeli on theSyrian border, 20 km southwestof CizreThe ruins are surrounded bysquare ramparts dating back tothe Babylonian era. These makeup the outer fortress, and featuresome 30 towers. The inner

fortress is circular. The rampartsare made of rough-hewn basaltwhile the structures are made ofwhite limestone. A statueuncovered in 1992 depicting theAssyrian ruler is on display atthe Museum of AnatolianCivilizations in Ankara.

The KasrikRuins30 km along the fi›rnak-CizrehighwayThe Cizre and Finik Beys areknown to have used this as asummer settlement. Thesettlement is located in a straitand features ancient weirs,statues and the ruins of the city.Today, the people of Cizre oftencome to this scenic spot forexcursions and picnics.

Mehmet A¤aSummer PalaceDa¤ Kap›, CizreThis late 19th-century historicsummer palace was built byHamidiye Binbaşısı Fettah Ağaand is located on flat groundoriented to the north and south.The exterior has a square planand measures 23.6 x 32.50meters. The ashlar masonry, two-story house features a courtyardwith two reception roomsopening onto it. The house has aflat roof, and is made of cutblack basalt and white limestone.In modern times, walls werebuilt to divide the house intoliving space for more than onefamily.

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Dirheler (Giant Houses)

Mehmet Ağa summer palace



According to the Koran and the Old Testament,plus the works of many travelers and historians,Noah’s Ark is said to have landed on MountCudi. The fact that Noah’s tomb is in Cizre, thatŞırnak was once known as Şehr-i Nuh and thatCizre’s city walls are in the shape of a boat arecited as proof of this theory. Noah’s Ark isthought to have landed on a 500m2 plateauknown as Sefine (Boat) at the summit of themountain. This plateau is surrounded by a 1-2meter stone wall. According to various sources,this area was built by Noah as a place ofworship. With the spread of Christianity, it was

later the site of a church known as the Deyr-elCudi. To the west of Sefine are two stonecisterns and a number of natural wells. To thesoutheast is an area known as Çılmire that boastsvarious reliefs, stone sculptures and aninscription belonging to the Assyrian KingSanherib. A cave near the summit is decoratedwith horse and animal reliefs. The summitcannot be accessed by road, but there are anumber of climbing routes to the top. Everyyear, particularly in June and July, villagers fromthe region climb Mount Cudi to worship.

Mount CudiSouth of fi›rnak

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The cemetery in southern Cizre boasts late 19th and early 20th-century gravestones featuring inscriptions andsymbolic decorations, including reliefs of weapons.



fi›rnak CultureŞırnak’s two major handcrafts are weaving and the manufacture of‘şalşepik’ fabric. Shawls made from mohair and sheep’s wool areparticularly beautiful. Other examples of traditional Şırnakhandcrafts include the manufacture of felt, carpets, trays wovenfrom stalks of wheat, wooden spoons and prayer rugs.

Traditional DressWomen traditionally wear a‘fistan’, an ankle-length dressusually made from velvet or afabric known as ‘çemçem’.Women wear a headscarf calleda ‘kıtan’ made from a long pieceof muslin. Traditionally, menwear clothes made from a fabricknown as ‘şalşepik’. Localfootwear consists of a mohairbootee called a ‘raşık’ that keepsthe feet cool in the summer andwarm in the winter, and a wovengoatskin shoe called a ‘kalık’.However, the growing popularityof modern clothing has madetraditional dress less common.

fialflepik The production of ‘şalşepik’ fabric in Şırnak is as old as the silktrade. The fabric is mainly made of mohair, as well as othermaterials including wool, cotton and thread. Traditional Şırnakdress is made from this fabric and woven to personal preference.Most motifs have a symbolic meaning, and can be woven specificallyfor an individual.

Folk DancesAll the local folk dances tell storiesand have well documented histories.Every district in Şırnak has its ownunique version of the traditionalfolk dances. These dances areusually accompanied by ‘davul’(drums) and ‘zurna’ (a shrill pipe),as well as ‘bağlama’ (a pluckedinstrument with three double stringsand a long neck), ‘cümbüş’ (amandolin with a metal body) and‘darbuka’ (cylindrical drum beatenwith the hands). Şırnak’s traditionalfolk dances include the İkiayak,Yerinde, Şihani, Bablekan, Sınvanand Kulungi.


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Kilims andMotifsKilims are woven from woolenyarn colored with natural dyes,and are made in almost everyregion of Şırnak. Nevertheless,those woven by the Jirki clanin the district of Beytüşşebapare particularly famous. Mostof the motifs used in the kilimshave symbolic meanings.Star motif Represents the few remainingstars in the early morning sky.Gubale CıldorExpresses the feelings of awoman ill treated by herhusband.GülbeyanA motif inspired by roses.Lilüper Expresses the hopes anddreams of unhappy bridesforced to live with their in-laws.

fi›rnak CuisineThe main ingredients in Şırnak cuisine are meat, milk andwheat. A wide variety of local fare features theseingredients, including ‘mumbar’, ‘kelle paça’, ‘keşkek’,‘perde pilavı’, ‘gutilik’ and ‘sirik’.

Savory DishesMumbarA dish made from the head,trotters and offal of sheep andgoats.GutilikA kind of ‘içli köfte’.HeliseA dish made with meat, poundwheat and peppers.MeyreA dish made with pound wheat,‘ayran’ or yoghurt, mint andchickpeas.

DessertsKuliçeA dessert made with walnuts,apples and eggs. ŞiraniMade with grape molasses, salt,flour and oil. Gezu A dessert made from a resin-likematerial that collects on theleaves of oak trees. The resin isground and processed. Gezu isonly found in Şırnak, and is

harvested during two weeks inthe summer, amid greatfestivities. Kadgi DifseA pastry made with grapemolasses, walnuts, whole-wheatflour, currants, sugar, salt, and‘şerbet’.

Kenger otu �(Gundelia tournefortii)A spiny, milk-producingthistle-like plant that grows40-50 cm tall and flowers inApril and May. In Şırnak,‘kenger’ is eaten mixed withyoghurt.

Delicious grapes andpomegranates are grown inCizre and Silopi.

Perde pilavı

Kuliçe



Photographs:

Akgün Akova www.akgunakova.comKa¤an Aybudak www.kaganaybudak.com

Bar›fl Hasan Bedir [email protected] Büyükyaz›c›

Nurbay Coflkuno¤lu Aynur Köymen

Fatih P›nar www.fatihpinar.comDo¤anay Sevindik

‹rfan TapanErkan Yeyrek www.sertac.com.tr Sertaç Tanıtım archive

Mehtap Y›ld›zSerpil Y›ld›z

Republic of Turkey Ministry of Culture and Tourism archives

GAP Administration Organization archivesGeneral Directorate of State Hydraulic Works archives


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