BLACK LUNG

SPRING

SPRING

BLACK LUNG

100 Limited

Edition Print Price $5.00 USD

ISSUE ONE: FASHION

1

02 Illustrations + Interview: Natalia Czajkiewicz, Seattle

05 Interview: Model Jennifer Bobbin, New York

<<SPRING FASHION>>

08 Bones + Heads + Steven Meisel, Untitled

10 Advice From Color Experts.

11 Designers To Watch or not.

12 Make A Gucci.

14 Become Rodarte.

15 Snowflake + Heads

16 Interview: Designer Tanya Min Jee Ellis, Seattle

<<THERE IS...>>

21 Photograph: April Lea, Montreal

22 A Shaded View On Fashion.

23 Illustration: Steph Chard, Brisbane

24 London's Bones.

25 London's Ghost.

26 Get it + Goodbye

Cover: Kim Holland for BLACK LUNG

Opposite: Helmut Newton, Fingernail Story

Curated + Edited by Kim Holland for BLACK LUNG LIMITED

†Rights owned by above listed artists. Say it when you play it.

INDEX † ARTIST CREDITS and CONTRIBUTORS

3

Although the illustrations of Natalia Czajkiewicz are not fashion-based, it is

easy to see her eye for detailed style. Hand made typography, the colors

of a professional make-up palette, and geometric webbing showcase her

collection of women beautifully. Some wonderful thoughts on her work:

I think I am captivated by the human spirit and resiliency. When I

people watch I almost always notice the people lost in thought or that

seem worried in some way. I for some reason am more captivated by

darker emotions, maybe I find them more mysterious. I don’t see it as a

negative thing though. I think it is also very reflective of me having

struggled with anxiety issues for most of my adult life. Fear and what it

can do to people is an interesting topic to me.

Fashion and expressing yourself through makeup, clothing, shoes,

hair has always been inspiring to me. I think the greatest is when you

see people walking down the street in some crazy outfit they probably

made or found in an attic. I love all the young fashion bloggers out

there that are just taking it to the next level. Tavi at Style Rookie of

course is a huge inspiration; that girl is going to rule the fashion world in

like 10 years.

There are so many ways to answer that question. In the art world it

certainly can be at times. Since I have only ever been a woman I would

say that is all I can relate to. I think in many ways it is difficult just to be

human, being on Earth is crazy and amazing! I love being a woman

and have never thought my life would be better if I wasn’t one.

To contact Natalia, or to see more of her work, visit lostteeth.net.

ILLUSTRATOR Natalia Czajkiewicz

Page two : Who Lives In The House You Died In, 11x14” pencil + ink + acrylic

on paper 2010

Above : Possibility, 8x10" pencil + digital color 2010

The last time we spoke, you landed a job

with a firm in New York, and moved

there. When did you decide to model?

Modeling was something I always dreamed of doing, but

there was never the time, or the opportunity, to do it.

Most models start when they're in their teens, but

during those years my parents were all about me getting

an education, and wouldn't allow me to take time away

from school to pursue modeling. So, after graduating

college I moved to NYC "for a business career," but se-

cretly hoped to be able to pursue my modeling dream.

Not too long after moving here I started to get into it little

by little.

How did you get your start?

Part of me was afraid to try modeling and fail, or find

out I had zero potential. When you're a tall girl, people

always ask if you either play basketball, or, if you're

relatively thin, are a model. I started out doing some

small shows for a boutique in the Lower East Side, then

had the opportunity to model weekly for a summer series

at the exclusive Soho House in the Meat Packing Dis-

trict. The series featured high-end designers and estab-

lished professional models. That was a great summer

for me.

Photo by Diana Sonis

INTERVIEW

5

MODEL Jennifer Bobbin, New York, New York

How difficult is it to keep up with the industry? Any websites/blogs that give

you the inside scoop?

The industry is always changing, and there's really no one "look" in modeling or in fashion. Sure,

there are trends, but everyone has his or her opinion of what's "in." That's the nice thing about model-

ing, and what helps you from taking rejection too personally. One agency or designer may not like you,

but to the next you are the best thing to ever walk through the door. Modelinia.com is a favorite site

of mine for keeping up with the modeling industry. It is a great resource for learning who's who and

putting a name with a face. For fashion, I LOVE The Sartorialist (http://

www.thesartorialist.blogspot.com/). His photographs are so amazing and inspiring. He has a gift for

creating images you can relate to emotionally.

What music do you put on for getting ready to go out? Best music for the

runway?

My pump up music for going out varies, but the go-to's are Michael Jackson and David Bowie. I hate to

admit it, but Top 40 dance music, Britney, Beyonce and Rihanna, usually has that addicting beat that

you can't resist no matter how hard you try, and I really do try! As far as the runway goes, it's all

about the beat and it's gotta have a beat that you can look badass to. One of my favorite modeling

stories goes back to the fact that my mom was a huge David Bowie fan. Because of her, I listened to

Bowie a lot growing up and ultimately became a fan myself. As a little girl I'd listen to "Fashion" and

pretend I was a model. For my very last walk of the final summer show, I turned back from the end

of the runway and "Fashion" started to play. It was a perfect moment and the ideal culmination to

modeling that summer. I only wish it was on for the whole time I was walking!

What are your favorite looks

for Spring?

I'm excited for metallics, as well as

interested to see how the cutouts/

mesh/slit trend pans out. It can either

go really bad, or be a great alternative to

letting it all hang out there. I'm glad to

see that boyfriend blazers are still on the

scene because I love their versatility.

Prime shopping in NYC?

One of the best things about shopping in

NYC is the sample sales! I got a very

unique DVF dress at a sample sale for a

fraction of its original price, while it was

still current. Walk around the Fashion

District and you'll be sure to have fliers

shoved at you advertising a designer's

sample sale. Many of the newspapers

run ads notifying the public of upcoming

sales. These sales are a great way to

experience the cycle of the industry that

consumers don't typically get to take

part in outside of NYC.

7

Matthew Williamson Autumn 2009

Thanks Jenn!

Be on the lookout for her face on the cover of VOGUE Magazine!

SPRING

FASHION

Creating a season will

last throughout the year

Spring Color Season. The

French call it, Prin-

temps. We recognize it as

the season of fresh,

clean, and tender new

leaves.

You will illuminate the

visual effect of this,

light refreshing yourself

and the world around you

by what you wear.

Ever wondered why some people "have it",

and others don't? It's a fine combination of the

right colors, the right cosmetics, and the right

wardrobe that is bound to inspire confidence

in anyone. And luckily, its not as difficult to dis-

cover as you might think.

It is important to

understand that a

person is usually

not just one season.

Most people are

blends. A seasonal

blend means that

you are influ-

enced by more

than one season.

Emerging Brisbane fashion label

blanc + delta is conceived on delicate

designs and a palette of classic colors to

create a distinct collection.

The Spring/Summer 09/10 collection, “Into

the Twilight” features designs that draw on

the current trend of soaring mid-thigh

lengths and contrasted colors reminiscent

of Givenchy’s Spring 2010 collection in

Paris. Blanc + delta’s designs are unre-

servedly feminine with their signature frills

and soft hues of silver, beige, apricot and

black. The young designer behind the

label, Bianca Daly is one to watch down

under. STEPH CHARD

For complete collection visit

blancanddelta.com.

"if i had to say we stood for any colors

it would be the non colors black and

white."

Seattle design team CMR TYZ

create impressive, labor intensive

shredded street wear for those who

don't necessarily listen to advice on

first impressions.

Found at Blackbird in Seattle and Oak

in New York. KH

Let 'em know at cmrtyz.com.

Pho

tos

oak.

com

11

MAKE

A

GUCCI. 1. Shop your closet, thrift or

discount store. Aim for tight,

one size too small, in white,

grey or black.

2. Turn garment inside out, try

on and sketch asymmetrical

lines across the body, or draw

snowflake-inspired cutouts on

front and back.

3. Slice and sew straps, hem

where necessary.

((Leave tattered edges for a

Fendi feel))

4. Part and slick back hair.

5. Use fabric remnants over

stilettos to design matching

pattern.

Not as sleek

as you had envisioned?

YOU ARE RODARTE.

BECOME THE

STORY of "this

girl who kind of

became part of a

ravaged land-

scape, and then,

for some reason,

she burns alive

and is reborn as a

California condor."

BECOME

RODARTE: 1. Burn, stain, shred

and sandpaper

fabric.

2. Wrap long

bands of ruined

fabric around

torso, shoulders,

and let ends hang

freely to floor.

3. Paint arms and

run fingers through

hair.

15

Seattle Fashion Designer

Tanya Min Jee Ellis is steadily

making a name for herself with re-

markably well-crafted, thought provok-

ing ready-to-wear for a woman who

shares her easy coolness of inner confi-

dence. We met at one of her favorite

local cafes in Seattle's Wallingford

neighborhood, the dark woods and rich

scents of coffee a perfect backdrop to

discuss the vision for her line, Tanya Min

Jee. Ellis, who uses a challenging 25

pieces in her patterns, "produces a

really graphic garment without chang-

ing too much of the body where people

don't get it."

The influences for her com-

pleted Spring 2010 collection seep out

in the details, in a "quieter approach"

as she puts it. The black and white

band divisions are purely aesthetic, a

trait she points out in a photograph of

local architecture. The building, a 1908

historic landmark in the Pike-Pine trian-

gle, boasts the masculinity, classicism

and simplicity of her work. The next

INTERVIEW

day, I received an image from her of

a home designed by the Buenos Aires-

based firm Andrés Remy Arquitectos,

easily dovetailing her love of "straight

lines and breaking up of stuff", and the

original Modern home designs of Los

Angeles, CA.

As much attention as Ellis gives

to detailed construction, she gives just

as much to its marketability. I was

slightly surprised at how well Ellis talks

shop, until she mentions her retail ex-

perience on a nationally-branded

sales floor. She casually references the

attitudes of her educated clientele,

who "want something new and are

willing to pay for it." Her aim is to cre-

ate a "timeless piece forever in your

closet" and would much prefer a client

buying one go-to piece, than wear it

only once for a special occasion. A

Tanya Min Jee garment sells for $185-

$465 USD, a considerable asking

price for a student designer, which she

acknowledges. She does not hesitate to

say that she enjoys publicity, good or

FASHION DESIGNER

Tanya Min Jee Ellis, Seattle, WA

From early childhood, Ellis

contends that technical design

was her goal. She thought-

fully notes the skilled ease of

her family's talents. Her sister,

an interior designer, "she's

got it." As the daughter of an

established architect, she as-

sisted in the building of their

family beach house and grew

to understand the patience

and reward of true crafts-

manship. Later enrolled in the

University of Washington's

fiber arts program, Ellis fo-

cused on surface design:"I did

a lot a of weaving, I did all

of what old ladies suppos-

edly do, if old ladies had

done it, I'd done it" and ex-

plains that for her it takes

work, work that she gratifies

in and deeply enjoys.

By way of her

sketches, she was encouraged

to pursue fashion design as a

career. Several times during

our meeting, Ellis attributed

her recent success to the direction of

Terry Horlamus, The New York Fashion

Academy, Seattle. Horlamus, formerly

of VOGUE, "teaches differently than

bad. It is uncommon to hear a designer

state: “I enjoy listening to both positive

and negative feedback because it only

strengthens my skills as a designer,” but

that is what you can expect from Ellis.

tanyaminjee.com

Sato

ko C

oat Pattern

, Spring

201

0

Connect with

Tanya Min Jee Ellis

at

.

signature banding in monochromatic,

rather than contrasting, colors. My ad-

vice, if you are fashionista in search of

a stunning piece of ready-to-wear with

couture-like qualities, order a piece

now. When asked what is in store for

her and Tanya Min Jee in this decade,

she did not doubt the thought that this

collection may be her last. Ellis could

see herself working under an estab-

lished label, enabling her to continue

gaining respect as an industry business

woman.

Watch out for what lies ahead

of Tanya Min Jee Ellis, as she will easily

accomplish her set goals to create posi-

tive relationships, continuously improve

her already sincere and passionate

character, and es-

tablish life-changing

connections in the

fashion world.

how I have seen people get taught" in

the sense that she instructs a special-

ized, skills-based program, enabling

her graduates to excel in fashion as a

vocation. According to the school's

website, NYFA offers the only compre-

hensive high-fashion curriculum in the

Northwest. After seeing Ellis' work, it

would be hard to argue that claim.

In the midst of creating her

untitled Fall/Winter 2010 collection

due this summer, she will hold true to

her rooted influences. Ellis began the

design process with her fabrics: black,

white, cream. This collection will in-

clude what sounds to be a lavish clas-

sic irregular weave, paired with her

Designs : Tanya Min Jee Ellis

Photography : Peter Gaan

Makeup : Stace Quach

Hair : Kaycie Baker

Models : Alyssa Knowling,

Gabriela Yanitz (last image)

19

BOWS.

Marc

by M

arc

Jaco

bs

NEON OR GO‡H MAKE-UP.

Luella

THERE IS SOME-

THING ON YOUR

HEAD...

21

TIMELESS-

NESS.

VEILS, DISKS,

HATS, FLOW-

ERS.

23

BUNS,

BONES,

PALENESS,

HALLOW EYES,

LIGHT OR NO

BROWS. Lavin, Spring 2010

Beauty’s Lot, London 1778

25 GHOSTS.

BLACK LUNG

SPRING

ISSUE ONE: FASHION

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