bidar as a tourism destination

BIDAR – AS A TOURISM DESTINATION

CHAPTER 1

1.1 INTRODUCTION

Bidar is a district of Karnataka state in southern India. The historic city of Bidar is the

administrative centre of the district. The district is located in the northeastern corner of the state,

near the borders with Andhra Pradesh to the east and Maharashtra to the north and west.

Gulbarga district lies to the south.

Bidar is 120 km from Andhra Pradesh's capital Hyderabad. Till 1956, Bidar was part of

Hyderabad State.

The name of Bidar appears to be derived from 'bidiru' which means bamboo. The place

seems to have been known for bamboo clusters in the past, came to be known as 'Bidaroor' and

then 'Bidare', 'Bidar'. Though there are other versions of origin, the name 'Bidarooru' seems to be

more near one and authenticated by contemporary literary works.

In ancient time, Bidar formed an important part of the kingdom of Vidharba, referred to

in the Mahabharata. It became the part of the Chalukyan Empire in the 10th century. Bidar was

the capital of the Bahmani kings from 1428 till it later passed into the hands of the Barid Shahi

dynasty. There are some beautiful specimens of typical Muslim art and architecture here. Bidar

witnessed many upheavals during the early medieval period. It was taken over by the Yadavas of

Devangiri and later by the Kakatiyas of Warangal in the 14th century. It then became a part of

the Bahamani kingdom in the 14th century.

The Bidar Sultanate was absorbed by the Bijapur Sultanate to the west in 1619, which

was in turn conquered by the Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb in 1686.Bidar became part of the

dominions of the Nizam of Hyderabad from 1724 to 1948, when Hyderabad was annexed to

India to become Hyderabad state. In 1956, it became a part of Mysore state, later renamed

Karnataka. Bidar, along with Gulbarga, Raichur and Koppal are collectively referred to as

Hyderabad Karnataka. Bellary, though ceded by the Nizam to the British in 1796 AD, is also

grouped together with these areas.

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Bidar has glorious chapters of past as capital of Chalukyas and later as kingdom of

Bahmani's. Its achievements in statecraft are immense but stand surpassed by those in socio

cultural and religious fields Viz., revolution by Jagadguru Basavanna, One of the five holy

places of Sikhs in the form of Gurudwara Nanak Jhira, 15th Century Persian University of

Mohammed Gawan and so on. The list is endless.

1.2 RESEARCH METHODOLOGY

The study is based on primary as well as secondary data. Primary data was collected using both

qualitative as well as quantitative techniques. The following methods were used to get the data:

Primary Data

Consists of information gathered for some specific purposes and primary data is also that you

collect through researches, surveys, questionnaires etc.

(i) Interviews: formal, informal and in-depth;

(ii) Case studies: simple and intensive;

(iii) Group meetings: facilitated and non facilitated;

(iv) Observations: simple and intensive; and

Secondary Data

Secondary data consists of information that already exists somewhere having being collected for

some purposes.

(i) Documents related to Bidar Tourism; and

(ii) Other literatures: reports, articles and books related to Bidar History and Tourism.

We consulted and approached several libraries to collect reports, articles, notes related to

Tourism with special reference to History of Bidar. These documents proved useful in

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understanding the position of different developmental schemes of Bidar Tourism regarding

implementation, alternatives, solution, etc.

1.3 OBJECTIVES

1. To know the history of Bidar

2. To understand the different dynasties ruled Bidar.

3. To know the history of Bahamani Kingdom.

4. To study the development of art and architecture during the rule of Bahamanis.

5. To identify places of attractions that they mostly visit in Bidar

6. To know the flow of tourist.

7. To know why the tourist inflow varies from other destinations.

8. To know the contribution of Bidar in Karnataka tourism.

9. To check the role played by local tourism department and ASI.

10. To check the recent development works taken up by ASI.

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CHAPTER 2

THEORETICAL KNOWLEDGE

2.1 INTRODUCTION TO TOURISM

According to WTO (World Tourism Organization) Tourism encompasses the activities of

persons traveling and staying in places outside their usual environment for not more than one

year for leisure, business and other purposes.

In general tourism is defined as a person travel to his own residence at least 50kms

(1way) and he has to stay overnight with payable accommodation.

In order to understand tourism systematically it is very important to know various

components which together make tourism happen. There are three major components in tourism.

They are

1. Transportation

2. Attraction

3. Accommodation

1. Transportation :

There can be no travel if there is no transportation. Travel involves movement of people

from their origin to destination and it is possible only if there is some mode of transport.

Connectivity is very important in tourism development this could be possible only if adequate

transportation infrastructure is efficient, comfortable and in expensive. A tourist in order to get to

his destination therefore needs some mode of transport. This may be a motor car, a coach, an

aero plane, a ship or a train which enable a traveler to reach to a predetermined destination. In

many countries tourism is developed only because of adequate major components. Especially a

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good transportation facility makes these countries to become a major tourist destination. The

development of technology is caused for invention of new mode of transportation. Today a man

can travel anywhere in the world with safety and also with inexpensive fare.

2. Attractions :

Attraction is yet another important major component of it may include what it offers to

tourist. The holiday destination may offer natural attractions like sunshine, scenic beauty and

sporting facility. Man made attractions like historical monuments, archeological sites or any type

of entertainment. The destination with attractions and amenities is the most important as these

are very basic for tourism. Unless these are not there the tourist will not be motivated to go a

particular place. However since interest and taste of tourist varies widely they might choose from

a wide range of attractions available at various destinations all over the world.

Types of Attractions:

Traditions : National Festivals, Arts and Handicrafts, Music, Folklore,

Native Life and Costumes.

Cultural : Sites and areas of Archeological interest, Historical Buildings,

Places of Historical Significance, Political and Educations

Institutions, Religious Institutions etc.

Scenic : National Parks, Wildlife, Flora and Fauna, Beach Resort,

Mountain Resort. Etc.

Entertainment : Participation and visiting Sports, Amusement and Recreation

Parks, Cinemas, Night Life and Cruises

Other Attractions: Climate, Health Resorts and SPAS

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3. Accommodation :

Accommodation plays a central role and very basic tourist destination. WTO on its

definition of tourist has stated that the tourist must spend at least one night in the destination

visited to be qualified as a tourist. The availability of good accommodation makes a destination

very popular tourist attraction.

Accommodation provides hospitality and also tourists feel ‘Home Away From Home’.

These are the three major components of tourism which motivate tourist to travel towards

destinations. Along with these three major components there are various minor components

which make tourism development they are very crucial they include

1. Travel agent

2. Tour Operator

3. Tourist Guide

4. Car Rental Companies

5. Shopping Complex

6. Health Centers etc.

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2.2 IMPORTANCE OF TOURISM IN INDIAN ECONOMY

Tourism is a powerful economic force providing employment, foreign exchange, income

and tax revenue. The generators of economic impact for a city, estate, a country or a destination

area or visitors their expenditure and the multiplier effect. The economic impact of tourism

spending is a function of numbers of domestic and international visitor’s expenditure.

Because goods and service provided to tourist are really inputs to the process of

providing the experience demand for them is derived from demand for tourism. Some goods and

services are complimentary and their demand is interrelated in a positive fashion. Package tours

have the characteristics of putting all parts and services together, so they can become

complementary. Competitions occur among tours, tour operator can maximize profits by selling

tour of different values and costs in order to cater who has many people as possible along the

demand. The number of people can be accommodated can be determined from the marginal cost

of the tour and the marginal revenue to be derived from a given price level.

a) Employment Generation :

The WTTC (World Tour and Travel Council) estimated that employment in the

travel and tourism is 8.2% of the total employment. Tourism provides both direct and

indirect employment. Firms such as hotel, restaurants, airlines, cruise liners and resorts

provide direct employment because their employees are in contact with the tourist and

provide tourist the experiences. Employees of firms providing goods and services to the

direct employment firms such as aircraft manufacturing, construction firms and restaurant

suppliers create direct employment.

b) Tourism increases tax revenue:

Tourist must pay taxes like most other people. Because they come from other

regions or countries, their expenditure represent an increased tax based for the host

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government in addition to usual sales tax. Tourist sometimes pays taxes less direct way.

Airport taxes- exit fee, custom duty, and charges applied for granting Visa, these are just

few examples of commonly used methods of taxing tourist. In some countries for

instance the room rate at a hotel can be different for the tourist than for resident. Apart

from these special cases the actual tax collected for m both tourism and residents increase

because of tourism expenditure.

c) Income :

Tourism stimulates the economy of the area in which the development occurs.

Most of all in popular tourism destination local community were generating income by

tourist expenditure. In international tourism the rate of expenditure will be more

compared to domestic tourism. Service providers to tourist like local transportation,

linkage, accommodation operator, entertainer, shopping complex etc. they can earn

money from tourism activities.

d) Foreign exchange earnings:

Earning of foreign exchange is one of the most major benefits of tourism. Many

countries including India gives preferences to tourism because of its contributions

towards Forex. International tourism defines a person must stay at least 24 hours and less

than 1 year when length of stay of an international tourist increase his expenditure

generates maximum foreign exchange to any host country in any tourist destination

service provided to international tourist, the service provider will charge high.

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CHAPTER 3

THEORETICAL BACKGROUND

3.1 PHYSICAL FEATURES AND TOPOGRAPHY OF BIDAR

BIDAR town enjoys a picturesque situation, having been built on the brink of a plateau,

and thus commanding lovely views of the lowlands (Talghat) towards the north and the east. Its

latitude is 17 55' N., its longitude 77 32' E., and the height above the sea-level 2,330 feet. The

climate is bracing and the temperature in the hottest season does not usually rise above 105. The

distance of the town from Hyderabad is eighty-two miles, but the fringe of the Bidar plateau

begins from Kamkol village, and the breast is reached when the visitor has passed a few miles

beyond Akell. The plateau is an irregular oblong, twenty-two miles in length and twelve in

extreme breadth, with an area of about one hundred and ninety square miles.

The upper crust of the plateau is of laterite, a soft porous rock with limonitic surface. This

crust varies in depth from 100 to 500 feet and rests on a bed of trap, which is of much harder

texture and less pervious to water. The volume of water filtered during the monsoons through the

laterite stratum is arrested by the trappean bed, and a nursery of springs is formed whose natural

level of effluence is the line of contact of the two strata along the base of the cliffs of the plateau.

The water in course of time frets out for itself an orifice and macerates and loosens

portions of its rocky channel till a rift is produced. The rift gradually dilates into a ravine, and the

ravine expands into a vale. These physical phenomena have provided Bidar with some charming

sites.

The most notable among them are the springs of PapNash ('destroyer of sins') and

Sayyid-us-Sadat, and the flowered valley of Farah Bagh ('garden of joy'). The first two have

lovely glens, while the last has a shady recess, at the head of which a streamlet gushes out from

the cliff after flowing for a considerable distance in the womb of the rock. These sites will be

described in greater detail in the sequel.

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The surface of the plateau presents wide stretches of red plains, either waved over by

light dry grasses alive with coveys of partridges and herds of deer, or mottled by every sort of

cultivation for which artificial irrigation is not essential. The laterite must everywhere be pierced

nearly to the subjacent trap to reach the perennial springs, so that the wells in the vicinity of the

edges of the tableland are of extraordinary depth. The stream-fed valleys and the tracts of mixed

soil in the lowlands bear prodigally fruits and grains, canes and vines, and every variety of

vegetable produce. Bidar is noted for its cattle and also for the rich quality of the butter made

from their milk. To the ordinary visitor, however, the most attractive feature in the fauna of

Bidar is the abundance of monkeys which run about freely in large troops amid the shady retreats

and ruined abodes of the place. The species has a jet-black face, grey hair all over the body, and

a long tail which helps it in swinging and leaping from branch to branch. It is called languor or

hanuman (Semnopithecus), and is much larger in size than the more common brown monkeys or

Bandar (Macaques) of Indian towns. These funny creatures, notwithstanding their predatory

raids, enjoy considerable immunity from the people, the reason for this attitude apparently being

the religious idea that they are the progeny of the sacred Hanuman or monkey god who helped

Rama in vanquishing the ten-headed demon Ravana, and in liberating his beautiful wife, Sita,

from the demon's possession. It was either this reverential regard of the people or the curiosity of

the king himself in the antics and frolicsome gestures of these beasts that induced Nawab Nasir-

ud-Daula Bahadur (1829-57) to issue farman sanctioning a handsome grant for the maintenance

of the monkeys of Bidar. The grant is still continued, and the monkeys are fed under a large

banyan tree near the gateway of the fort every day at noon. It is a pleasing sight to see them

approaching the guard who distributes food. Bidar is the head-quarters of the district of that

name. It is now accessible from Hyderabad by both rail and road.

CLIMATE

The climate of this district is characterized by general dryness throughout the

year, except during the southwest monsoon. The summer season is from the middle of

February to the first week of June. This is followed by southwest monsoon season, which

continues till the end of September. The months of October and November constitute the

post-monsoon or retreating monsoon season.

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The winter season is from December to middle of February and the temperature

begins to decrease from the end of November, December is the coldest month with mean

daily maximum temperature of 27.3 C and mean daily minimum of 16.4 C. From the

middle of the February, both day and night temperatures begin to rise rapidly. May is the

hottest month with mean daily maximum temperature of 38.8 C and mean daily minimum

of 25.9 C. With the withdrawal of southwest monsoon in the first week of October, there

is slight increase in day temperature but night temperature decreases steadily. After

October, both day and night temperatures decrease progressively. The highest maximum

temperature recorded at Bidar was on 8-5-1931(43.3 degree C) and the lowest minimum

was on 5-1-1901(3.9 degree C).

THE PEOPLE

Bidar district, which occupies a central position in Deccan plateau, is mixed with

several racial strains, ethnic groups and socio-cultural clusters. Long after the fusion of

Dravidian and Aryan elements, there was, in the medivial times, a continuous influx of

batches of various types like the Turks, Mughals, Iranians, Afghans and Arabs who were

welcomed and encouraged to settle down in the area. As a result of these admixtures

there has been a cultural mosaic.

Bidar is predominantly an agricultural district and a major portion of the area is

covered under agricultural practices. Mainly dry crops are grown, Jowar being the major

constituent. Green gram, Bengal gram, Black gram, Paddy, Groundnut, Wheat, Red

gram, Sugarcane and chilies are other agricultural crops. The average size of the land

holdings in the district is 6.2 hectares as against the state average of 4.4 hectares.

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3.2 BRIEF HISTORY AND DESCRIPTION OF BIDAR

LEGEND has associated Bidar with the ancient kingdom of Vidarbha, to which

references are found in early Hindu literature. But the situation of the latter kingdom has been

determined by modern research, and it is now considered that Vidarbha occupied the country

which is called Berar. The rulers of the kingdom are supposed to have been vassals of the

Andhra rajas, whose dominions covered the plateau of the Deccan and at times extended over a

much wider area. Bidar, which is some two hundred miles south-east of Paithan, the capital of

the Andhra kings, must have been included in the territory of the latter, and it has been

associated with Vidarbha apparently on account of the similarity in names Bidar and Vidarbha.

The identity of Bidar with Vidarbha was, however, a common belief in Firishta's time, for him,

when referring to the romances of the early rulers of Bidar, describes the love-story of Nala and

Damayanti; and the latter was undoubtedly the daughter of Raja Bhima of Vidarbha.

In the excavations carried out recently by the Archaeological Department, Hyderabad,

some sculptures and broken tablets bearing inscriptions have been found in the Bidar fort; but

they do not carry back the history of the place earlier than the 10th century A.D., when it was

apparently included in the kingdom of the later Chalukyas (A.D. 974-1190), whose capital,

Kalyani, is only thirty-six miles west of Bidar. The power of the Chalukyas, however, rapidly

declined during the rule of the last three kings of the dynasty, and a large portion of their

territory was occupied by the Yadavas of Deogiri and the Kakatlyas of Warangal, whose

kingdoms were at the zenith of their glory in the eleventh and twelfth centuries. Bidar was

apparently annexed to the Kakatiya kingdom, for in A.D. 1322, when Prince Ulugh Khan

marched upon Warangal; he besieged and conquered the town of Bidar, which was on the

frontiers of Telingana. An inscription of Ghiyath-ud-Din Tughluq, dated A.D. 1323, recently

found at Kalyani, shows that the latter town was also conquered by Ulugh Khan in this

expedition, but the absence of Kalyani’s name in this connection in contemporary history shows

that Bidar at that time was a more important town than Kalyani, the glory of which seems to

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have faded with the decline of the Chalukyas. In this inscription Kalyani is mentioned as only a

qasba, or minor town.

The historian Dia-ud-Din Barni, in his account of the conquest of Warangal by Prince

Muhammad (Ulugh Khan), gives further details of the siege of Bidar by mentioning the

occupation of the outer defenses of the fort by the Prince. This fort, dating from Hindu times,

was subsequently either demolished by Ahmad shah Wali al-Bahmani, when he built the present

fort after making Bidar the capital of his kingdom, or incorporated by him in the new

fortifications and lines of defenses.

In 1341 Muhammad bin Tughluq honored Shihab-ud-Din of Multan with the title of

Nusrat Khan and conferred on him the government of Bidar with its dependencies on the

condition that he should pay a revenue of one Crore of rupees annually into the king's treasury.

Nusrat Khan could not fulfill this condition, and in A.D. 1345 he rebelled. The king ordered

Qutlugh Khan, the governor of Daulatabad, to chastise the rebel. Qutlugh Khan expelled Nusrat

Khan from his government, but at that time, on account of the weakening of the king's authority,

general disorder prevailed in the Deccan, and Amir Ali, one of the new officers who was sent

from Daulatabad to collect the revenue of Gulbarga, raised an army and occupied Gulbarga and

Bidar on his own account. Muhammad bin Tughluq again deputed Qutlugh Khan to subdue the

rebellion. When the latter reached the confines of Bidar, Amir Ali gave him battle, but was

defeated and obliged to shut himself up in the city. He later capitulated, and Qutlugh Khan sent

him a prisoner to the imperial court. In 1347 Zafar Khan, a 'centurion' whose real name was

Hasan, appeared before Bidar with 20,000 horses, but did not attack the place until a large

number of troops were sent to his assistance by the Raja of Warangal. A fierce battle ensued in

which the royalists were defeated and Imad-ul-Mulk, son-in-law to Muhammad bin Tughluq,

was killed. After this battle Zafar Khan, at the suggestion of Nasir-ud-Din Ismail, was

unanimously elected king by the people of the Deccan. The new monarch divided his empire into

four provinces, of which Bidar was one, its governor receiving the title of Azam-i-Humayun ('the

auspicious chief).

Bidar was apparently governed well by Azam-i-Humayun during the reign of Ala-ud-

Din, but no reference to it occurs in history until the reign of Muhammad Shah, the second

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Bahmani king who, during his expedition for the complete conquest of Telingana, detached

Azam-i-Humayun with the troops of Bidar for the subjugation of Golconda. As a result of the

expedition the hill-fort of Golconda with its dependencies was ceded hi perpetuity to the

Bahmani king, who committed it to the charge of Azam-i-Humayun. Muhammad Shah, on his

return from this campaign, disbanded his troops at Bidar and halted there for three months. The

salubrity of its, climate and the picturesqueness of its environment were apparently the reasons

that induced the king to break his journey at the place.

Bidar nourished as a provincial town during the reigns of the early Bahmani kings, and it

is mentioned among the great cities of the Deccan wherein schools for orphans were established

by Muhammad Shah II (A.D. 1378-97). - Later the fortress of Bidar appears in history as the

well-protected stronghold wherein the unfortunate hams-ud-Din, the seventh Bahmani king, was

interned to pass the rest of his life in captivity.

The turning-point in the history of Bidar came about the close of the reign of Firoz Shah

(A.D. 1422), when the two slaves Hoshiyar and Bidar, who were jealous of the popularity of

Prince Ahmad, led an expedition with the cognizance of the king against the prince. The royalists

were defeated in the precincts of Bihar, either at Khanapur or at Nimatabad, the former being

some ten miles west and the latter only three miles south-west of Bidar. This injudicious action

cost Firoz Shah his throne, and Prince Ahmad shortly after his accession made Bidar the capital

of his kingdom.

Historians have given various reasons for the transfer of the capital from Gulbarga,

among which the old Indian tale of the hunt of a fox by dogs and the extraordinary courage of

the latter also occurs. This tale is not worthy of consideration, for it had been told by Indian

writers in connation with the foundation of other ancient towns. The real reasons for the choice

of Bidar were its central position in the kingdom, its natural defenses, and its invigorating

climate. The three principal divisions of the Deccan Telingana, the Carnatic, and Maharashtra

converge towards Bidar ; and the situation of the city on the brink of a plateau about two hundred

feet above the adjoining plains would have made it difficult to attack in those days. The

perennial springs and the abundance of verdure and fruit trees, which are still the attractive

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features of Bidar, must have further influenced the king in preferring it to Gulbarga for the seat

of his government.

The transfer led to the rebuilding of the old Hindu fortress on an extensive scale and

capable of mounting cannon, the use of which had been recently introduced, and against which

the previous defenses were practically useless. The king built for himself a large palace.

Following the example of the king, the nobles of the court and the important State officials built

houses for their residence, and a beautiful city arose, which rapidly acquired fame for the

salubrity of its climate, the strength of its defenses, and the magnificence of its buildings. Ahmad

Wali al-Bahmani had great military and administrative capacity, and during his reign he

extended the limits of the Bahmani kingdom by his campaigns against the King of Malwa in the

north, the Rai of Warangal in the east, the Raja of Vijayanagar in the south, and the King of

Gujarat in the north-west. By these campaigns a large portion of the Konkan and a considerable

tract of Berar were annexed to the Bahmani kingdom, and vast sums in cash and large treasures

of jewels and valuable commodities realized as tribute or indemnity of war. These riches

brought opulence to Bidar, the new capital, and it soon became a centre of culture and progress.

Ahmad Wall's religious propensities attracted to Bidar some divines of repute from Persia, the

most important of whom were the son and grandson of Shah Nimat-Ullah, the famous saint of

Kirman.

During Ahmad Shah’s reign Bidar was also the scene of great revelry and festivities

when Prince Ala-ud-Din was married to the daughter of Nasir Khan Faruqi of Asir. The

celebrations lasted for two months, and the city was beautifully decorated for the occasion. This

alliance strengthened Ahmad shah’s government in Ramgarh, Mahur, and Kallam against the

insurrections of the local chiefs and the aggression of the Malwa king.

Ahmad Shah died in A.D. 1436 and was succeeded by his son Ala-ud-Din, who built a

lofty dome over the grave of his father. The tomb is situated at Ashtur, some two miles to the

east of Bidar city. The ceiling and walls of this tomb have been decorated with paintings in

Muslim style composed of calligraphic devices or floral designs. These paintings are considered

to be unique in India for their beauty and elegance. Ala-ud-Din built a large hospital at Bidar and

staffed it with expert Muslim and Hindu physicians. A large endowment was made for the cost

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of medicines and other expenses of the hospital. 'Ala-ud-Din also laid out a delightful garden and

built a beautiful palace at Nimatabad, a suburb of Bidar. He also built the tomb of Shah Khalil-

Ullah and adorned it with carved stone-work and encaustic tiles. 'Ala-ud-Din was a cultured but

pleasure-loving king, and his reign was occupied by intrigues at the court and rebellions in the

outlying provinces of the dominions. The most crushing defeat sustained by Ala-ud-Din's army

was, however, in the Konkan, where a large number of troops under Khalf Hasan Basari, the

accomplished governor of Daulatabad, were cut to pieces by Sirka, a Konkan chief, and Shankar

Rai the Raja of Khelna. Ala-ud-Din died of a wound in his shin in A.D. 1458 and was succeeded

by his son, Humayun, who is styled Zalim ('the Cruel') in history on account of his atrocious

deeds. 'Ala-ud-Dm was buried at Ashtur near the tomb of his father. The magnificent mausoleum

which still stands over his grave was apparently built by Humayun. The tile-work of this

monument has suffered much through climatic conditions, but wherever it is intact the designs

and the color schemes are most pleasing.

The dark picture of Humayun's deeds painted by historians seems to be considerably

overdrawn. He was apparently of a peevish nature, perhaps duo to indifferent health, for he

reigned only a little over three years and died at the early age of twenty-one years. He had rivals

for the throne in his own family from the beginning, and when they openly rebelled against him

and tried to oust him he showed no mercy to them or to the nobles who had espoused their cause.

Humayun appointed his son Nizam as his successor during his lifetime, and as the boy was only

eight years old he ordered that a Council of Regency should transact the affairs of the kingdom.

According to Humayun's command the Council was to consist of Khwaja Mahmud Gawan,

Khwaja Jahan Turk, and the Queen-mother. Khwaja Mahmud Gawan had entered the service of

the State during the reign of Humayun's father, but distinguished himself by his fidelity to the

son. Humayun died hi A.D. 1461, and his remains were interred in a tomb built in close vicinity

to his father's mausoleum. The dome of Humayun's tomb has been destroyed in recent times by

lightning, an incident which people of Bidar regard divine punishment of Humayun's misdeeds.

The debris of the dome was lying at the site until A.D. 1917, but it has now been removed by the

Archaeological Department of Hyderabad and the damage done to the walls of the building made

good by suitable repairs.

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The Queen-mother appointed Mahmud Gawan to be Prime Minister and Khwaja Jahan

Turk to be Controller of the State (Vakil-us-Saltanat), and with their joint advice, which was

obtained through a woman called Mah Bano, began to administer the kingdom on behalf of her

young son. Both these ministers were extremely capable and loyal, but in a country where

autocratic government was in vogue and the safety of the kingdom depended upon the personal

qualities of the ruler, the administration of the Bahmani kingdom by a Council of Regency gave

a welcome opportunity for the neighboring rulers and chiefs to invade. The first aggressor to

march with this object was the Rai of Orissa, who was joined in his expedition by some

refractory chiefs of Telingana. The Rai entered the dominions from Rajahmundry and pushed on

up to a place some twenty miles from Bidar. There the Bahmani army met the invaders and

attacked them with such valor that the Rai of Orissa was defeated and had to pay an indemnity of

five lakhs of silver coins. After the repulse of the Rai of Orissa the next aggressor to appear on

the scene was Mahmud Khalji, the King of Malwa, who invaded the kingdom shortly afterwards

from the north. Although the young Bahmani king, accompanied by his ministers and several

accomplished generals, marched from Bidar to oppose the invader, their resistance proved

unavailing, and Nizam Shah had to flee for his life to the capital. Mahmud Khalji marched on

triumphantly to Bidar, and ultimately laid siege to the city. Nizam Shah, under the advice of the

Queen-mother and Mahmud Gawan, committed the charge of the citadel of Bidar to Mallu Khan

Deccani and himself retired to Firozabad. The city of Bidar was captured by Mahmud Khalji

seventeen days after the departure of Nizam Shah, but the fort still held out. In the meantime

Mahmud Gawan had written for help to Mahmud Shah of Gujarat, who readily complied with

the request and marched towards the frontier. Later he placed a division of twenty thousand

cavalry and several of his trusted officers at the disposal of Mahmud Gawan, who had gone to

welcome him on behalf of the Bahmani king. Sultan Mahmud Khalji, who had been unable to

capture the citadel, on hearing of the approach of the Gujarat army raised the siege and retreated

precipitately towards Malwa. Nizam shah dispatched ambassadors with valuable presents to

Mahmud Shah of Gujarat to show his gratitude to the latter for his timely aid. The King of

Malwa again invaded the Deccan in the following year, advancing as far as Daulatabad, but was

once more compelled to retreat through the help afforded by Mahmud shah of Gujarat.

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During the occupation of the city of Bidar by Sultan Mahmud Khalji of Malwa several of

its buildings were destroyed. These were, however, built afresh by Nizam Shah when he returned

to the capital. The young King died suddenly in A.D. 1463, at a time when the Queen-mother

had arranged for his wedding, and a nuptial feast with due pomp and magnificence was being

prepared. Ho was buried near the tomb of his father.

The next Bahmani king after Nizam Shah was Muhammad Shah III, again a lad nine

years old. The Council of Regency appointed during the reign of the last king continued to

transact the affairs of government. Khan Julian Turk, however, acquired unlimited power and

influence in every department of the State, and keeping Mahmud Gawan, his colleague,

employed in the administration of the frontiers, he became the de facto ruler. The Queen-mother,

who had a penetrating mind and also possessed considerable political capacity, could not tolerate

the aggrandizement of Khan Jahan and arranged to have him put to death.

Muhammad Shah III received a good literary education under Sadr-i-Jahan Shustari, a

celebrated scholar of the age, and he is considered by the historians to have been the most

learned prince, next to Firoz Shah, among the Bahmani kings. He gave promise of military

prowess as well at a fairly early age, and after his emancipation from the tutelage of his mother

and the minister, Mahmud Gawan, his first act was to send an expedition for the conquest of the

fort of Kherla, which had been a bone of contention between the kings of Malwa and the Deccan.

The fort was captured, but subsequently a treaty was signed, in accordance with which the fort

was restored to the King of Malwa and a mutual understanding was reached between the two

monarchs to refrain from molesting each other's dominions.

In A.D. 1469 Mahmud Gawan led an expedition to the Konkan against some refractory

chiefs, who were subdued, and finally the port of Goa, which previously belonged to the Raja of

Vijayanagar, was captured. Mahmud Gawan established a strong garrison in the fort of Goa, and

when he returned to Bidar after an absence of three years, which the expedition had occupied, the

king honored him by a visit of a whole week and conferred upon him the highest titles with a suit

of his own robes.

Other triumphs secured during the reign were the subjugation of Vishagarh in the north, of

Condapalli and Rajahmundry in the north-east, and of the country as far as Conjeevaram in the

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south. The success of the reign was, however, marred by a tragedy which was caused by the

intrigue of some vicious officials of the court who had become jealous of Mahmud Gawan's

popularity and power. These persons forged a letter over the seal of the minister, addressing it to

the Rai of Orissa, who was at that time hostile to the king. The letter was shown to the king at a

time when he was intoxicated with liquor, and suspecting treason he forgot all his previous

regard for the minister and gave orders for his immediate execution. The orders were carried out,

but the death of the minister caused general alarm and distrust, even among the most devoted

officers of the State, who refrained from attending the court when the king invited them. This

state of affairs led to the weakening of Muhammad shah's authority and to the gradual disruption

of the kingdom.

Mahmud Gawan was perhaps the greatest statesman and general known in the history of

the Deccan. The chief reforms introduced during his ministry were: first, the division of the

Bahmani kingdom into eight provinces instead of four as previously established, which had

become of unmanageable size owing to the extension of the kingdom ; secondly, the assignment

of only one fort in each province to the control of the governor, and the retention of other forts of

the province, as regards appointment of officers, troops, equipment, munitions, and payment of

salaries, in the hands of the king himself; thirdly, the increase in the salaries of army officers, to

what were very substantial rates of pay, for Briggs, in a footnote to his translation of Firishta,

writes that the pay of a body of five hundred cavalry maintained under the Bahmani kingdom in

A.D. 1470 was fifty per cent, more than was necessary to keep an equal number under the British

Government in 1828.

Mahmud Gawan was a pious person and was devoted to learning. At Bidar he built a

school which stands to this day, and the architecture of which is perhaps unique in India. It was

staffed by learned men and divines from various countries of the East, and it contained a large

collection of manuscripts for the use of professors and students. Mahmud Gawan was also a poet

and a good prose writer, and a collection of his letters called Riyad-ul-lnsha is still extant in

manuscript form.

Muhammad Shah deeply repented his indiscreet haste in ordering the execution of the

minister, and it is mentioned by historians that the sorrow caused by the tragedy undermined his

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health. He died in A.D. 1482, a year after the minister's death, at the early age of twenty-eight

years. His remains were interred, in a tomb built near the mausoleum of his brother, Nizam shah,

at Ashtur.

Muhammad Shah III was succeeded by his son; Mahmud Shah Who was only twelve

years old when he ascended the throne. The reign of Mahmud Shah, which was a long one, was a

period of troubles and civil wars which ended in the subversion of the Bahmani dynasty. The

king was a mere tool in the hands of his minister, Nizam-ul-Mulk Baihri, and disturbances broke

out frequently in the city of Bidar and other parts of the kingdom. During the king's absence on

an expedition to Telingana, Nizam-ul-Mulk determined to seize as much of the royal treasure as

possible, and then join his son, who was governor of Junir. The plot was discovered by the

governor of Bidar, and Nizam-ul-Mulk was arrested and executed. In the year A.D. 1490 the

Deccanis and Abyssinians conspired to subvert the influence which the foreigners possessed over

the king. Pasand Khan, combining with the Deccanis, agreed to assassinate Mahmud Shah and

place another prince of the royal family on the throne. The king narrowly escaped with his life,

and for three days afterwards continuous attacks were made by his troops upon the conspirators

and their forces in the city. In order to celebrate his escape from this danger, Mahmud Shah held

a magnificent festival lasting forty days, and went in solemn procession through the city, the

streets of which were handsomely decorated for the occasion. After this the king neglected the

affairs of his government, leaving them entirely to the direction of his favorites. Khafi Khan and

Firishta have given vivid accounts of the morals of the court at the time.

Qasim Barid, who had succeeded Nizam-ul-Mulk Baihri as minister, had the king

completely in his power, and practically ruled over the kingdom. During this time Malik Ahmad

Baihri Nizam-ul-Mulk, Fath-Ullah Imad-ul-Mulk, and Yusuf Adil Shah proclaimed their

independence in Ahmadnagar, Berar, and Bijapur respectively, founding the Nizam Shah, the

Imad Shahi, and the Adil Shahi dynasties. A little later Qasim Barid also proclaimed his

independence in Ausa and Qandhar, but the king made terms with him, and in A.D. 1492

confirmed him as Amir-i-Jumla, or Prime Minister. Thereafter the Bahmani ceased in fact to be a

ruling dynasty, though Mahmud Shah had four nominal successors in Bidar, Ahmad Shah II,

Ala-ud-Din Shah III, Wali-Ulla, and last of all Kalim-Ullah, who died a fugitive in Ahmadnagar.

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Mahmud Shah has left several buildings to his credit at Bidar, the most important of which is the

suite of rooms attached to the Gumbad Darwaza, which is referred to as the Shah Burj ('royal

bastion') by Firishta. He writes that the king, after his escape from Pasand Khan's plot, caused a

splendid building to be erected on the royal tower which he regarded as auspicious. This building

became his favorite abode during the latter part of his life. Mahmud Shah also built the second

gateway of the Bidar Fort, which is popularly called the Sharza Darwaza or 'the tiger's gate', on

account of the effigies of two tigers carved thereon. The facade of the gateway is decorated with

beautiful tile-work and according to an inscription, which can still be read, it was built in A.D.

1503.

Mahmud Shah's mausoleum, built at Ashtur, is a monument of considerable dimensions.

It was apparently erected by the king himself during his lifetime. The tombs of his successors,

who were mere puppets in the hands of their Baridi ministers, are insignificant structures and

possess no architectural interest.

According to Firishta, Qasim Barid was of Turkish origin but domiciled in Georgia. He

was brought as a young boy to the Deccan by Khwaja Shihab-ud-Din 'Ali Yazdi’ and offered for

service to Muhammad Shah BaihmanI III. Qasim Barid was an expert in handwriting and also

played well on musical instruments. In the service of Muhammad Shah he distinguished himself

in subduing the Marathas, and married the daughter of Sabaji to his son Amir Barid. Qasim Barid

obtained the office of Vakil ('Administrator') during the reign of Mahmud Shah BaihmanI, but he

did not behave in a respectful manner towards his royal master. He died in A.D. 1504 and was

succeeded by Amir Barid, who obtained still greater control over the members of the royal

family. Amir Barid was constantly at war with the newly established Bijapur kings, and in A.D.

1529 Ismail Adil Shah marched at the head of a large force to Bidar, which he blockaded. Amir

Barid, entrusting the defense of the citadel to his eldest son, withdrew to the fortress of Udgir.

After the blockade had lasted for some time the besieged made a sortie, and a sharp engagement

ensued under the walls of the town. While the siege was still in progress Ala-ud-Din Imad Shah

came from Berar to intercede with Ismail Adil Shah for Amir Barid, but was informed that the

injuries which the intriguer had inflicted on Bijapur could not be pardoned. Shortly afterwards

Amir Barid was taken prisoner while in a fit of intoxication, and carried to the Bijapur king. He

begged that his life might be spared and promised to induce his son to give up the fortress of

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Bidar and the treasures of the Bahmani family. The son refused to give up the fortress, upon

which the Bijapur king issued orders for Amir Band to be trampled to death by an elephant.

However, his life was spared, and after a second parley with his son the garrison evacuated the

place and returned to Udgir, taking a good deal of the Bahmani jewels with them. Ismail now

entered the fort and distributed the treasures amongst his nobles, troops, Ala-ud-Din Imad Shah,

and other neighboring chiefs, reserving none for himself, to show that he did not make war for

the riches of the Bahmani family.

Amir Barid was in attendance on Ismail Adil Shah at the sieges of Raichur and Mudgal in

A.D. 1530, and after the conclusion of the campaign the Bijapur king restored Bidar to him on

condition that ho should give up Kalyani and Qandhar to Bijapur. Amir Barid died at Daulatabad

in A.D. 1542, and was succeeded by his son Ali Barid, who was the first of the dynasty to adopt

the title of Shah. He was a cultured prince, especially fond of poetry, calligraphy, and

architecture. He built his own tomb at Bidar, which was completed in A.U. 1576, three years

before his death. The architecture of this building is very pleasing, being different from the

massive and somewhat somber style of the tombs of the Bahmani kings. Another delightful

building erected by this king is the Rangin Mahal ('painted palace'), which has lovely tile and

mother-of-pearl decoration. This was apparently built by a Persian architect, for some of the

verses inscribed on this palace have a striking resemblance to those painted on contemporary

buildings in Persia.

During the reign of Ali Barid Bidar was attacked by Murtada Nizam Shah, who wanted to

bestow it as jagir upon his favorite general, Sahib Khan. Ibrahim Qutb Shah, being covetous of a

portion of the Barid Shah territory, sent troops from Golconda to help Murtada in besieging the

city. Ali Barid was for some time in great straits until he applied for help to Ali Adil Shah of

Bijapur. The latter sent a thousand horse at once, and promised to send more on certain

conditions. At this time Murtada Nizam Shah, hearing of the rebellion of his son in Ahmadnagar,

relinquished the siege and hastily returned to his capital.

Another important historical event of Ali Barid's reign was his joining the confederacy of

the Deccan kings in the expedition which was led against Rama Raja, the ruler of Vijayanagar.

Ali Barid took an active part in the campaign, and in the final arrangement of troops for the

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battle he, with Ibrahim Qutb Shah, occupied the left wing. The result of the battle, which was

fought at Talikota, is well known, but at the same time history is silent as to the territorial gains

which Ali Barid secured through this joint triumph of the Deccan kings. Ali Barid died in A.D.

1680 and was succeeded by his son, Ibrahim Barid, who ruled for seven years. His tomb adjoins

that of his illustrious father and suffers by comparison with the latter.

In A.D. 1587 Ibrahim Barid was succeeded by Qasim Barid II, of whose reign no great

event is mentioned in history. After the battle of Talikota the rival dynasties of Ahmadnagar,

Bijapur, and Golconda became much too powerful for the Bidar kings, who during their later

days led a precarious existence, and ultimately their kingdom, which had dwindled to a small

principality, was absorbed in the Bijapur kingdom. In A. D. 1591 Qasim Barid II was nominally

succeeded by his infant son, but a relative, Amir Barid, usurped the throne.

Amir Barid was, however, expelled in A.D. 1601 by Mirza Ali Barid, another member of

the family, and compelled to fly to Bhagnagar (Hyderabad). Firishta, who concluded his account

of the Barid Shahi kings in 1018 H. (A.D. 1609) writes that Mirza Ali Barid was reigning at

Bidar in that year. According to Basatin he was succeeded by Amir Barid, who was apparently

the third sovereign of this name in the dynasty. In A.D. 1619 Ibrahim Adil Shah II marched

against Bidar to punish Amir Barid, who had maintained the family tradition of hostility to

Bijapur. Bidar fell, and Amir Barid and his sons were made captive by Ibrahim, who carried

them to Bijapur, where they ended their days under surveillance, Bidar being annexed to the Adil

Shahi kingdom.

Bidar remained a part of the Adil Shahi territory until Aurangzeb began to devise plans

for the subjugation of all the kingdoms of the Deccan. Early in A.D. 1656, this prince, then

viceroy of the Deccan for his father, the emperor Shah Jahan, taking with him his son,

Muhammad Muazzam, and his generals, Mir Jumla and Iftikhar Khan, marched from

Aurangabad to Bidar. The place was at that time governed by Malik Marjan, an Abyssinian

officer, who had been appointed by Ibrahim Adil II. During the regime of Malik Marjan, which

lasted nearly thirty years, the defenses of the Bidar fort and the palaces inside it were extensively

repaired.

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Aurangzeb laid siege to the city, and in a few days succeeded in bringing his artillery to

the edge of the ditch, and breached two bastions and a portion of the lower wall. The officers of

Aurangzeb's array then scaled the walls and discharged rockets and grenades on Malik Marjan's

troops who were defending the breach. One of the rockets accidentally struck a magazine of

gunpowder which exploded, severely burning Malik Marjan and his sons. Malik Marjan died of

his injuries within two days of the accident, and on the 18th of April, A.D. 1656, after a siege of

twenty seven days, Aurangzeb made a triumphal entry into the fort. Bidar was included in the

Mughal Empire, and Aurangzeb by the capture of the place obtained twelve lakhs of rupees in

cash, ammunition worth eight lakhs of rupees, and 230 guns. Aurangzeb, jubilant at his success,

proceeded to the great mosque in the fort, and had the khutba recited in the name of his imperial

father, Shah Jahan. Bidar was renamed Zafarabad, and Mughal coins issued under this name

from Bidar may still be seen in museums.

Iftikhar Khan, who had taken an active part in the capture of Bidar, was appointed its first

governor, and he retained this office for a little over two years until his return to the Faujdarship

of Churagarh in Malwa, which was his permanent post. The next Mughal governor of Bidar was

Khan Zaman Mir Khalil-Ullah, who also held this charge for a little over two years, until 1071

H. (A.D. 1660), when he was promoted to the governorship of Malwa.

Mir Khalil-Ullah was succeeded by Mir Shams-ud-Din Mukhtar Khan, whose name is

still kept fresh in the memory of the people of Bidar by the inscriptional tablets which he fixed to

the gates of the city and the fort. Mukhtar Khan also built the Farah Bagh Mosque, the

inscription on which is a fine specimen of the nasta'liq style of writing. He repaired the gates and

the defenses of Bidar, and Aurangzeb in appreciation of his services promoted him to the

governorship of Khandesh in A.D. 1672 and appointed Qalandar Khan, who afterwards enjoyed

the title of Jan Nisar Khan. in Mukhtar Khan’s place at Bidar. Qalandar Khan's name is

preserved in an inscription which records the building by him of a pillared hall in 1088 H. (A.D.

1677). The hall does not exist now, and the inscription which at one time was placed in the Solah

Khamb Mosque has been removed for safe custody to the Archaeological Museum in the Bidar

fort. Qalandar Khan also built a fine mosque at Gulbarga, which may still be seen.

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Qalandar Khan retained the governorship of Bidar until 1092 H. (A.D. 1681), when he

was succeeded by Jan Sipar Khan Bahadur Dil, the brother of Mukhtar Khan, the third governor.

Jan Sipar Khan’s governorship lasted for several years, and according to the Ma'dthir-ul-Umara

he was helped in the administration by his son Rustam Dil Khan, who afterwards succeeded him.

In Jan Sipar Khan Aurangzeb had great confidence, and in 1098 H. (A.D. 1687), when the

emperor, after conquering Golconda, came to Bidar, he deputed Jan Sipar Khan to escort Abu-l-

Hasan to Daulatabad, where the unfortunate king afterwards spent the rest of his life in captivity.

Jan Sipar Khan was subsequently promoted to the governorship of Hyderabad, and his son

Rustam Dil Khan, who was already familiar with the government of Bidar, took up his father's

office at the latter place. Rustam Dil Khan was an accomplished administrator and ultimately

rose to be governor of Golconda, the Bidar province, after the annexation of Golconda and

Bijapur to the Mughal Empire, occupying a minor position in the administration of the Deccan.

The local records show that Rustam Dil Khan held the governorship of Bidar for one year and

seven months only, until 1099 H. (A.D. 1688), but there is a mosque at Bidar built by Rustam

Dil Khan with an inscription of the year 1107 H. (A.D. 1695).

Rustam Dil Khan was succeeded by Aurang Khan, who, owing to his untimely death,

held the governorship for a few days only. After Aurang Khan his son Qubad Khan assumed his

office, and held it until his demise in 1102 H. (A.D. 1691). Qubad Khan built the Shrine of the

Holy Cloak at Bidar. Qubad Khan was followed by Husam-ud-Din Khan. Who is better known

in the history of the Deccan as governor of Udgir. He was an enterprising officer, possessing

both military prowess and administrative ability. He was also fond of music, and was most

accomplished in repartee. At Bidar he built a mosque and laid out a garden. He also built a

platform near the Talghat Darwaza, whence he enjoyed the view of the lowlands on moonlit

nights. The platform was called the Chandni Chabutra, the platform for moon-lit nights.

Husam-ud-Din Khan was succeeded by Khana-zad Khan some time in 1107 H. (A.D.

1695), and he remained in office for nearly a year. Afterwards he proceeded to Delhi, where he

was appointed Khan Saman, ' Lord Chamberlain', to the Emperor. After Khana-zad Khan's

promotion, Sazawar Khan received from Aurangzeb the governorship of Bidar. During his

regime the famous Madrasa of Mahmud Gawan was struck by lightning. This catastrophe

occurred on the 1 1th of Ramadan 1 107 H. (4th April, A.D. 1696), destroying one-half of the

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front of the building and an equal part of the left wing, including the beautiful tower at the south-

east corner. The Madrasa was in a ruinous condition until recently, and the fore-court and the

interior were filled with debris. It has now been thoroughly repaired and the original plan of the

missing portions restored up to the plinth.

Sazawar Khan was succeeded by Anup Singh Bundela, who was of a violent temper and

murdered one Tondar Mai (Todar Mai) Hazari, who had refused to marry his daughter to the son

of Anup Singh. The followers of Tondar Mai rebelled against Anup Singh, who shut himself up

in the fort of Bidar. Afterwards he secretly escaped from the fort through the help of Raja

Chandra Sen.’s troops who had come to his rescue. The followers of Tondar Mai represented the

matter to the Emperor at Delhi, who appointed Mir Kalan Khan as governor of Bidar. Mir Kalan

Khan retained the governorship of Bidar for a long time, and when Nizam-ul-Mulk Asaf Jahi,

after defeating Mubariz Khan at Shakar Khelda in October 1724, came to the Deccan and

declared his independence, Mir Kalan Khan offered him a warm welcome. With the

establishment of the Asaf Jahi dynasty Bidar fell into further insignificance, its governors

gradually occupying the position of district officers.

Mir Kalan Khan was succeeded in turn by his two slaves, Wasil Khan the senior, and

Wasil Khan the Junior.2 Of these, the former was killed by trumpeters at Bhalki, and the latter

was ousted by Khwaja Momin Khan, who was deputed by Asaf Jahi to chastise him in 1153 H.

(A.D. 1750). Wasil Khan the junior extended the city of Bidar towards the west by building a

large market, which was named Wasil Ganj after him. For the protection of this extension he

constructed a high wall with three gateways and a moat.

In 1156 H. (A.D. 1752) Nawab Asaf Jahi appointed Muqtada Khan to be governor of

Bidar. Later on the latter took advantage of the disturbances which arose during the rule of the

sons of Asaf Jahi, and levying more than five thousand troops consisting of both cavalry and

infantry, began to plunder and lay waste the Telingana country adjoining the territory of Bidar.

Nawab Salabat Jang besieged Bidar in order to punish Muqtada Khan. But when the latter

showed contrition Salabat Jang not only pardoned him but reinstated him in the governorship.

Muqtada Khan rebelled again, but on that occasion the siege was resumed by Mir Nizam Ali

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Khan. Who soon captured Bidar and appointed Siyadat Khan in place of Muqtada Khan as

governor.

Subsequently the ill-feeling between the two brothers, Nawab Salabat Jang and Nawab

Nizam Ali Khan, became more pronounced, and when Nizam Ali Khan received a sanad from

the Emperor of Delhi confirming him in the government of the Deccan, he issued farman

confining Salabat Jang in Bidar. The latter remained in captivity for one year three months and

six days until his death on the 20th Rabi' I, 1177 H. (28th September, A.D. 1763.)

Siyadat Khan was the governor of Bidar when Salabat Jang was confined there, and as he

showed loyalty to the latter, Nizam Ali Khan removed him from office and appointed Ala-ud-

Daula Dilir Jang in his place. He was a very cruel officer, and it is alleged that he killed Salabat

Jang in order to please Nawab Nizam Ali Khan. The wicked propensities of Dilir Jang found

vent in other directions also, and ultimately he was deprived of his office by Nizam Ali Khan,

who appointed Mir Kalan II in his place. Mir Kalan II remained in office for two years from

1179 to 1180 H. (A.D. 1766-7) and was succeeded by Murtada Khan. In 1187 H. (A.D. 1773)

Raghoba marched with a large army upon Hyderabad in order to collect the chauth. Nizam Ali

Khan met the Maratha army in the vicinity of Bidar, and ultimately defeated Raghoba in a battle

which was fought on the bank of the river Manjra. The war lasted for twenty days, and during

this period Bidar was also the venue of fighting. The garrison of Bidar fort on that occasion used

the famous sat gazi gun in order to repel the Marathas.

About the close of the year 1187 H. (A.D. 1773) Murtada Khan was succeeded by

Muhammad Ghauth Saif-ud-Daula, but he died shortly after his appointment, and his brother

Saif Jang Najm-ud-Daula Bahadur became governor of Bidar in his place. Saif Jang retained this

office for twenty-four years until 1203 H. (A.D. 1789); he did not, however, attend to the duties

in person, but appointed deputies to work in his behalf.

The next governor of Bidar was Nawab Amin-ul-Mulk Bahadur, popularly called Tara

Miyan, ‘the bright master'. During his administration Bidar suffered from a terrible famine. To

relieve the condition of the people Nawab Nizam Ali Khan Bahadur came in person from

Hyderabad and distributed grain from the stores in the fort. Amin-ul-Mulk remained in office for

three years, but was afterwards dismissed by Nawab Nizam Ali Khan, and Nur Muhammad

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Khan was appointed in his place. Nur Muhammad Khan stayed in Hyderabad, but sent Dhakir-

ud-Din Khan as his deputy to manage the affairs of Bidar. About this time a scion of the Asaf

Jahi family, named Ail Jah Bahadur, rebelled against Nawab Nizam Ali Khan ; and on the 9th

Dhu-l-Hajj 1209 H. (27th June, A.D. 1795) he set out from Hyderabad towards Bidar. Sadasiva

Reddi, a zamindar, joined Ali Jah on the way, and when the rebels reached Bidar Dhakir-ud-Din

Khan opened the gates of the fort. Nawab Nizam Ali Khan was much upset by the news, and

deputed Abdullah Khan, an Abyssinian officer, with a considerable force to chastise Ali Jah and

his confederates. Abdullah Khan, however, was defeated by Sadasiva Reddi; the former was

wounded, and his wife and children were captured by the enemy. Nawab Nizam Ali khan was

further annoyed by this defeat, and he then dispatched a larger force under Monsieur Raymond

and Sardar-ul-Mulk Ghansi Miyan. They ejected the rebels from the fort; Ali Jah fled to

Aurangabad, while Sadasiva was captured and imprisoned at Golconda. Nawab Nizam Ali Khan,

after the quelling of the rebellion, punished Nura Muhammad Khan for his disloyalty and

appointed Khwaja Munim Khan as governor of Bidar in his place. He was exceedingly kind and

good to the peasantry, and distributed large sums of money among the people of Bidar to help

them to restore their houses which had been destroyed during the late disturbances, but

unfortunately he died of paralysis within five months of his appointment. He was succeeded by

Khan Jahan Bahadur in the month of Shawwal 1210 H. (April, A.D. 1796). The latter appointed

as his deputy Mirza Husain Beg, whom he sent to Bidar to attend to the duties. The Mirza was an

efficient officer, but Mushir-ul-Mulk, the Prime Minister, did not like Khan Jahan, and when the

Prime Minister was released from imprisonment at Poona and returned to Hyderabad he induced

the Nizam to replace Khan Jahan by Yakka Taz Jang Bahadur, whose real name was Mir Lillahi.

The latter assumed office in 1214 H. (A.D. 1799). He himself did not go to Bidar, but sent his

son Mir Asad Ali Khan as his deputy. In 1215 H. (A.D. 1800) Yakka Taz Jang died, and Mir

Asad Ali Khan was confirmed as governor of Bidar in his father's place. He held the appointment

for twenty-two years, being succeeded by Sayyid Khalil-Ullah Khan Bahadur in 1237 H. (A.D.

1822). After Khalil-Ullah Khan eight more governors held charge of Bidar, until 1262 H. (A.D.

1846), when the Nizam's dominions were divided into districts, and the old system of

administration through military officers was abolished. Under the new arrangement Bidar for

some time remained the head-quarters of a Sadr Ta'alluqdar (Commissioner) and afterwards of a

Ta'alluqdar, a position which it still holds. The glory of the town really waned with the decline of

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the BaihmanI dynasty, although Barid kings kept up its beauty during their chequered rule of 122

years. The final signs of decay appeared when it became a provincial town, first under the

Mughal kings and afterwards under the Asaf Jahi rulers. The last nail in the coffin was, however,

driven when under the Zil-a-dari system Bidar dwindled to the insignificant position of the head-

quarters of a Collector. Having no railway connection, its industries, among which the Bidri-

ware was the most notable, fell into decay; its beautiful palaces and public buildings which were

once the envy of the great cities of India became a mass of debris; and the people whose piety

and learning, military prowess and soldierly bearing were widely renowned, turned into

charlatans and professional beggars, or hewers of wood and drawers of water. Fortunately, under

the rule of our benign sovereign, His Exalted Highness Nawab Sir Mir Osman Ali Khan

Bahadur, G.C.I.E., G.B.E., a new era of prosperity is dawning in the history of Bidar. It has been

linked to Hyderabad by railway ; a network of schools has been established to spread literacy

among its people ; large sums have been advanced for the revival of the Bidri-ware industry ;

and effective steps have been taken for the improvement of the breed of cattle and the uplift of

the general life of the peasantry of the district. Further, co-operative societies have been started

to ameliorate the condition of the urban population; and for the expansion of the town itself a

development scheme has been sanctioned, in which sanitation and aesthetic requirements are the

principal features. Lastly, to foster a national pride among the people all the monuments of Bidar

have been thoroughly repaired, and roads and paths laid out so that access to them is made easy.

3.3 BAHAMANI KINGDOM

The Bahmani Sultanate (Also called the Bahmani Empire) was a Muslim state of the

Deccan in southern India and one of the great medieval Indian kingdoms. Bahmani Sultanate

was the first independent Islamic and Shiite Kingdom in South India.

The sultanate was founded on 3rd of August 1347 by governor Ala-ud-Din Hassan

Bahman Shah, possibly of Tajik-Persian descent, who revolted against the Sultan of Delhi,

Muhammad bin Tughluq. Nazir uddin Ismail Shah who had revolted against the Delhi sultanate

stepped down on that day in favour of Zafar Khan who ascended the throne with the title of

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Alauddin Bahman Shah. His revolt was successful, and he established an independent state on

the Deccan within the Delhi Sultanate's southern provinces. The Bahmani capital was Ahsanabad

(Gulbarga) between 1347 and 1425 when it was moved to Muhammadabad (Bidar).

The Bahmani contested the control of the Deccan with the Hindu Vijayanagar empire to

the south. The sultanate reached the peak of its power during the vizierate (1466–1481) of

Mahmud Gawan. After 1518 the sultanate broke up into five states: Ahmadnagar, Berar, Bidar,

Bijapur, and Golconda, known collectively as the Deccan sultanates.

According to Islamic historians, a rebel chieftain of Saulatabad (an area around Ellora)

which was under Muhammad Bin Tughalaq founded the Bahamani kingdom. Allauddin Hassan,

a man of humble origin assumed the name of Gangu Bahamani in memory of his patron, a

Brahmin. His kingdom comprised of Deccan plateau, including parts of present day Karnataka,

Maharashtra, and Andhra Pradesh. Bahanamis of Deccan left a important heritage of Indo-

Islamic art, language, and spread of Islamic tradition in South India.

About eighteen kings ruled during the nearly 200 years after which the kingdom got

divided into four smaller ones like Barishahi (Bidar), Kutbshahi (of Golkonda), Adamshahi( of

Ahmadnagar), and Adilshahi (of Bijapur).

3.4 BAHMANI KINGS

Note: Refer chapter 5.5 Page no.69 Name and Period of the Kings who ruled

Bahmani reign

3.4.1 ALA-UD-DIN HASAN BAHMAN SHAH

Founder of Bahmani Dynasty of Deccan (Aug 3, 1347 - Feb 11, 1358 AD)

Capital: Gulbarga

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Nasir-ud-din Ismail Shah asked Zafar Khan to become the King with the title of

Sikandar- uth- thani Ala-ud-din Hasan Bahman Shah al-wali. The new King was crowned on

Friday Aug 3, 1347 (24.04.748 AH) in the mosque of Qutb-ud-din Mubarak Shah Khalji at

Daulatabad. According to one historian Hasan was the nephew of Malik Hizhbar-ud-din entitled

Zafar Khan Alai, who was killed in 697 AH/ 1298 AD when Hasan was only 6 years old.

The first act of the new king was to transfer his title of Zafar Khan to prince Muhammad.

King adopted the title of Bahman. He sent Qutbul Mulk who conquered Kotgir, Maram,

Mahendri and Akkal Kot. Qir Khan was sent to conquer Kalyan. After the news of this great

victory of Kalyan, King renamed Daulatabad to Fatahabad.

Sikandar was send to Malkher which was held by the Hindu Zamindars who opposed first

but subdued later. Krishna Nayak of Tilangana entered into treaty and became friend of Sikandar

and loyal to the King. Quir Khan revolted and was beheaded by the king. King renamed

Gulbarga as Ahsanabad and made it the capital of Deccan. Hasan Gangu Abul Muzaffar Ala-ud-

Din Bahman Shah (August 3, 1347 - 1358), whose original name was Hasan Gangu or Hasan

Kanku and also bore the title of Zafar Khan was the founder of the Bahmani sultanate.

ANCESTRY AND EARLY LIFE

Early historians, Tabataba and Nizam-ud-Din Ahmad believe that Hasan was descended

from the Persian king Bahman, son of Isfandiyar. But Firishta emphatically asserts that this

genealogy was fabricated after Hasan's accession to the throne by the flatterers and poets though

he has seen the same genealogy in the royal library at Ahmadnagar. He believes that his origin

was too obscure to admit or being traced. He thinks that Hasan was an Afghan by birth. He was

servant of an astrologer Brahmin named Gangu of Delhi and was blessed by him. Gangu began

his career as a general serving under the Sultan Muhammad bin Tughluq. He received the title of

Zafar Khan after becoming a governor. In 1347 he was made commander of an army in

Daulatabad. On August 3, 1347 Nasir-ud-Din Ismail Shah (Ismail Mukh, whom the rebel amirs

of the Deccan placed on the throne of Daulatabad in 1345) abdicated in his favour and he set up

the Bahmani Kingdom with its headquarters at Ahsanabad (Gulbarga).

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THE REIGN

On establishing an independent kingdom Gangu took the title of Abul-Muzaffar Ala-ud-

din Bahman Shah. The name Bahmani Kingdom was derived after the Brahmin caste of Gangu

(who had blessed Hasan). Another theory was that the name Bahman came from Hasan's claim

of descent from the Iranian hero Bahman, which also lead to the dynasty and kingdom having the

name Bahmani. He gave Ismail Mukh a jagir near Jamkhandi and later conferred to him the

highest title of his kingdom, Amir-ul-Umara. But Narayana, a local Hindu chieftain still

succeeded in turning Ismail against Bahman Shah for a short period before he poisoned Ismail.

Bahman Shah led his first campaign against Warangal in 1350 and forced its ruler

Kapaya Nayaka to cede to him the fortress of Kaulas. His kingdom was divided into four

provinces and he appointed a governor for each province. During his reign Hasan fought many

wars with Vijayanagar. By the time of his death the kingdom stretched from north to south from

the Wainganga River to Krishna and east to west from Bhongir to Daulatabad. He was succeeded

by his son Muhammad Shah I after his death in 1358. The King died on Feb 11, 1358 at the age

of 67.

3.5 BAHAMANI KINGS BIDAR PERIOD (116 YEARS)

SHIHAB-UD-DIN AHMAD I (Sep 22, 1422 - Apr 17, 1436 AD)

At the beginning of his reign he suffered the shock of the death of Hazrat Khwaja Syed

Muhammad Gesu Daraz. He decided and shifted his capital from Gulbarga to Bidar between

827-830 AH. He made Khalaf Hasan Basri as his Wakil-e-Saltanate (Prime Minister).

He constructed the Tomb of Gesu Daraz at Gulbarga.

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Ahmad Shah attacked Vijayanagar and over powered Vijayaraya I. In the last year of his

reign he appointed his eldest son Ala-ud-din Zafar Khan to be his heir, giving him the full charge

of kingdom. King died on 29th of Ramadan, 839 AH after a short illness

ALA-UD-DIN AHMAD II (Apr 17, 1436 - May 6, 1458 AD)

Ahmad I had been very successful as a king and when he died he was popular even to the

extent of being regarded as a saint. His son Zafar Khan who assumed the title of Ahmad on his

accession he gave preference to newcomers from outside over the old in his cabinet. This created

a great cleavage between them and the Dakhnis (old comers). He married the daughter of Raja of

Sangmeswar and gave her the title of Zeba Chehra apart from the daughter of Nasir Khan Faruqi

of Khandesh Agha Zainab.

There became two party, apparently the old-comers and the new-comers. King died early

due to his wound in his shin (front of lower leg)

Silver Coins struck in the name of Ahmad Shah II in 838 AH has been reported. No coin

of Ahmad Shah I has been reported so for. This confirms that Ahmad Shah II ascended the

throne in 838 AH when Ahmad I was alive.

ALA-UD-DIN HUMAYUN SHAH (May 7, 1458 - Sep 4, 1461 AD)

Ahmad Shah II had nominated his eldest son Humayun heir to his throne. King made

Khwaja Mahmud Gawan, Malik-ut-tujjar, trafdar of Bijapur and Wakil-e-Sultunate giving him

full control of military matters. Humayun was a very short tempered and cruel man. He made his

own cousin Sikandar Khan as Sipahsalar. Sikandar became rebellion and was crushed to death

with the help of Mahmud Gawan. Humayun died on 28th Zi-Qada 865 AH.

Coins struck in the name of Humayun Shah 866 AH indicate that he might have died

some time in 866 AH and hence Ahmad Shah III ascended the throne in 866 AH.

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NIZAM-UD-DIN AHMAD III (Sep 4, 1461 - Jul 30, 1463 AD)

On Humayun's death his son Ahmad succeeded to the throne as Nizam-ud-din Ahmad III

at the age of 8. He was escorted to the throne by Shah Muhib-ul-la and Syed-us-Sadat Syed

Hanif. Late king had nominated a council of Regency constituting of Khwaja-e-Jahan Turk,

Mahmud Gawan with the Dowager Queen Makhduma-e-Jahan Nargis Begum. Master mind

which ruled the country during the short reign of Ahmad Shah III was that of the great queen. All

the political prisoners of Humayun period were released. Ahmad III died on the very night of his

marriage on 13th Zi-Qada and was succeeded by his younger brother Muhammad Khan as

Shams-ud-din Muhammad Shah III.

SHAMS-UD-DIN MUHAMMAD SHAH III (Jul 30, 1463 - Mar 26, 1482 AD)

Shamsuddin Muhammad was between 9 and 10 years when he succeeded his elder

brother. He was escorted to the Turquoise Throne by Shah Mohib-ul-lah (who was released by

his captor Mahmud Khalji of Malwa) and Syed Hanif. Nizam-ul-mulk murdered Khwaja-e-Jahan

Turk (one of the member of the three party committee of Regency after the death of Humayun)

at the instance of Queen in the presence of boy king in 870 AH.

Mohammad Shah III got married at the age of 14 years. Dowager Queen retired from

active role. Malik-ut-tujjar Mahmud Gawan was made Prime Minister. The Prime Minister ship

of Mahmud Gawan saw the Bahmani State attaining high unequalled in the whole of its history.

During this period Parenda Fort, Great College of Bidar and Madarsa at Bidar Were built. Kherla

was besieged in 872 AH. Kapileswar of Orissa was defeated in 1470 AD. Goa was annexed on

20th of Shaban 876 AH. Queen Dowager died in 877 AH.

Boundaries of Bahmani Kingdom were now touching the Bay of Bengal in the east and

the Arabian Sea in the west. Mahmud Gawan was one of the first ministers in Medieval India to

order a systematic measurement of land, fixing the boundaries of villages and towns and making

a thorough enquiry into the assessment of revenue.

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King annexed Kanchi on 1st Muharram, 886 AH. This was the southernmost point ever

reached by Bahmani. Nobles conspired against Khwaja Mahmud Gawan and prepared a false

paper on behalf of Khwaja saying he wants Deccan to be partitioned between him and

Purushottum of Orissa. King sentenced Khwaja to death on 5th Safar 886 AH at the age of 73.

Later King came to know that Khwaja was innocent. He appointed his son Mahmud as his heir.

He died on 5th Safar 887 AH.

SHIHAB-UD-DIN MAHMUD (Mar 26, 1482 - Dec 27, 1518 AD)

The long reign of Mahmud Shah Bahmani, was a period of gradual weakening of the

state. He ascended the throne at the age of 12 years, when new-comers had been over thrown.

New Regency was formed with Queen as president. Qasim Barid was entitled with Barid-ul-

mumalik.

King began to indulge in wine women and song and spent so much money that he had to

extract many jewels from the Turquoise throne at the instigation of Qasim Barid. Qasim Barid

forced Mahmud to make Prime Minister of the kingdom in 897 AH. Malik Ahmad Nizamul-

mulk revolted and made a beautiful palace making it the center of his newly created capital,

which he named after himself, Ahmadnagar in 900 AH. Qutbul-Mulk was appointed as the

Governor of Tilangana in 901 AH /1495-96 AD who controlled over Warangal, Rajakonda,

Dewarkonda and Kovilkonda. Qasim Barid died in 910 AH and was succeeded by his son Amir

Barid. Ahmad Nizam died in 914 AH and succeeded by his son Burhan. Sultan died on 24th Zil-

hij 924 AH.

AHMAD SHAH IV (Dec 27, 1518 - Dec 15, 1520 AD)

Amir Barid was very clever, He put Mahmud's son Ahmad on throne. Amir Barid was

careful that king should not leave the palace but he actually set about to spoil his life and morals.

New Sultan was forced to break up the ancient crown of the Bahmanis, worth 15 lakhs of Rupees

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(Rs. 1,500,000). And sell the jewels in order to provide himself with the means of ease and

pleasure. Sultan died on 1st Muharram 927 AH.

ALA-UD-DIN SHAH (Dec 28, 1520 - Mar 5, 1523 AD)

Amir Barid's wish to become king was rekindled with Ahmad's death. He put the crown

on Ahmad's son Ala-ud-din on 17th of Rabi-us-sani 929 AH after 15 days of thinking. The new

Sultan was wise and courageous. Amir Barid conspired against him and Sultan was dethroned on

17th Rabi-us-sani 929 AH.

WALI-UL-LAH SHAH (Mar 5, 1523 - 1526 AD)

Amir Barid put Waliullah son of Mahmud on throne. He was imprisoned in his own

zanana (ladies room) and lived on bread and clothes provided to him by his master. Amir Barid

married the pretty Bibi Sitti, Ahmad's widow who was just 22-23 yrs. Amir Barid was now a

royal kinsman and was free to enter the zanana apartment of the palace. He began to make love

with the queen. When Sultan resisted he was poisoned in the beginning of 932 AH.

Coin of Waliullah struck in 928 AH and no coin of Alauddin Shah of 928 AH indicates

that Alauddin Shah was dethroned in 928 AH and Waliullah ascended the throne in 928 AH.

Coins struck in the name of Kalimullah in 930 AH indicate that he ascended the throne in

930 AH and Wali-ullah died in 930 AH.

KALIM-UL-LAH SHAH (1526 - 1527 AD)

Kalim-ul-lah son of Mahmud Shah was the last king of the Bahmani Dynasty. He was

closely guarded by Amir Barid. A new political force had now appeared on the Indian Horizon in

the person of Zahir-ud-din Muhammad Babur. All the rulers of Deccan i.e. Bijapur,

Ahmadnagar, Berar, and Burhanpur sent their congratulations to the Mughal conqueror.

Kalimullah also wrote letter to Babur to relieve him from Amir Barid. This news was leaked and

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out of fear of his life Kalimullah Shah fled to Bijapur in 934 AH / 1527 AD. He was not

welcomed there. He left for Ahmadnagar. He was first received well by Burhan Nizamul Mulk,

but never again called in open court. Kalimullah soon breathed his last in Ahmadnagar. His

coffin was brought to Bidar. His date of death could not be confirmed. After the death of

Kalimullah his son Ilhamullah proceeded to Mecca and never returned.

3.6 BIDAR DISTRICT IMPORTANT HISTORICAL EVENTS

231 B.C The Satavahanas who were ruling at Paithan as vassals of Mauryas proclaimed

independence. They ruled over Dakshinapatha for about four centuries and a half. The Vakatakas

dominated the Deccan.

345 A.D Kadambas rose to power Vaijayanti (Banavasi) was their capital and palasika (Halsi) a

second capital Sindas of Ranjeru- Attale nadu

545 A.D Pulakesin I established chalukya power. He made vatapi (the Modern Badami) his

capital

753 A.D Rashtrakuta Prince Danti Durga proclaimed himself the sovereign power in the Deccan.

Manyakheta (Malkhed) was their Capital, Jain temple at Kambithana (Kamthana)

913 A.D Rashtrakuta Karka 11 was dethroned by the Chalukya, Taila II, Taila's success was the

beginning of the Chalukyan empire of Kalyani. 1042-68A.D Someshwara I removed the capital

from Manyakheta to Kalyani

1075 A.D Kakatiya Beta II received Sabbinadu from Chalukyas.

26th February 1077 Coronation of Vikramaditya VI started Chalukya Vikrama Varsha Jalsangi

Temple

1154 A.D Kalchuri Bijjala became the Mahapradhana to Taila III.

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1155 A.D Bijjala Started carrying on the administration in the name of Taila III.

1157 A.D Kalachuri Bijjala assumed full imperial titles.

1162 A.D After the death of Baladeva, Basaveshwara was Minister to Bijjala. Allamaprabhu

ascended sunya pitha in the anubhava mantapa

1167 A.D Bijjala abdicated the throne in favour of his son somideva or someshvara.

1181 A.D Somesvara IV the son of Chalukya Taila III became ruler after sweeping away the last

remnants of Kalchuri power.

1188 A.D Yadava Bhillama seized Kalyana. The Kakatiyas also gained some territory of

Chalukyan Empire as a result of the final dissolution of Chalukyan hegemony.

1270 A.D Yadava mahadeva was forced to surrender Bedadakota (Bidar) which was annexed to

the Kakatiya Kingdom. Sinda Bhairava assisted Kakatiyas in the struggle

1318 A.D Badarkot (Bidar) and other places were ceded to Khusrau Khan

1320 A.D Kakatiya pratap rudra reoccupied Badarkot and other places.

1322 A.D Bidar Town which was on the frontier of Telingana and Baswakalyan forts were taken

by Ulugh Khan (Muhammad-Bin-Tughluq) who was then a prince. Those town forts were left

incharge of trust worthy officers with strong garrison.

1336 A.D The Vijayanagar Empire founded.

1341 A.D Muhammad Bin Tughluq honoured Shihab-Ud-Din of Multan with the little Nusrat

Khan and conferred on him the Government of Bidar( One of the aqlims or provinces) with its

dependencies on the condition that he should pay a revenue of one Crore of rupees annually into

the kings treasury.

1345 A.D As Nusrat Khan could not fulfill the condition, he was expelled. Sadah Amirs (who

were revenue collectors as well as military commanders under Mohd. Tughluq) rebelled. They

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elected one of their members Ismail Mukh as the sultan of Deccan. As he was aged, he readily

abdicated his charge in favour of Hasan Gangu.

3rd August 1347 Zafar Khan (Hasan Gangu) was crowned and assumed the title of Ala-Ud-Din

Hasan Bahman Shah at Daulatabad. He made Gulbarga his capital. Bidar was made a

taraf/province under a governor. The Bidar town began to flourish as a provincial head quarters.

1358 A.D Azam-I-Humiyun of Bidar who defeated the Nayaka of Warangal was appointed as

the Governor of Golconda. 1364 A.D The Kingdom of Warangal was finally destroyed by

Ahmed shah

1378-1397 A.D Muhammad II established some schools for orphans at Bidar.

1396 The Durga Devi Xamam; a famine that lasted for 12 years and ruined the country between

the Godavari and the Krishna.

1428 A.D On his return from Kherla, Ahmed stayed in Bidar for some time, where he was struck

by its situation and climate that he decided to build a new city near its ancient fortress and called

it Ahmadabad-Bidar.

1429 A.D Bidar became the new capital. Ahmed shah wali (1423-1436 A.D) laid the foundations

of the Bidar fort. The construction was completed around 1432 A.D

1436-1458 A.D Ala-Ud-Din Ahmed -II. He built a large hospital at Bidar and staffed it with

expert Muslim and Hindu physicians.

1453 Mohammed Gawan's arrival at Bidar.

1458-1461A.D Humayun was the sultan. He appointed Mahmud Gawan as the Prime Minister,

Commander-in-Chief and governor of Bijapur.

1461-1463 Nizamud-din-Ahmed II 1463-1482 Muhammad III Mahmud Gawan. Prime Minister

introduced many reforms, Great Madarsa of Mahmud Gawan was found by Gawan in 1472 A.D,

Goa annexed to Bahmani Kingdom.

1471-1474 A.D Afanasy Nikitin a Russian Traveler was in the Deccan including Bidar.

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5th April 1481 On the order of the monarch Muhammad III, Mahmud Gawan was beheaded at

Condapalli Camp.

1523 A.D As Bahmani Sultan Ala-ud-din Shah was venturing to assert himself; he was

dethroned by Amir Barid.

1538 A.D The Bahamani dynasty faded out of history. Five smaller states emerged including

Barid Shahi dynasty.

1543 A.D Ali Barid assumed royal appellation of Shah.

1619 A.D The Adil Shah of Bijapur took over Bidar.

1656 A.D The Mughal forces captured Bidar and Kalyani. Bidar was annexed to the Mughal

Empire.

1724 A.D Asaf Jahi Dynasty succeeded Mughal rule. Rule by governors.

3.7 MAJOR TOURIST ATTRACTIONS OF BIDAR

3.7.1 THE FORT ENCLAVE

FORTIFICATIONS

In the chapter on History it has been shown that there was a fort at Bidar with a double

line of defenses when Prince Ulugh Khan conquered the place. What the form or the extent of

this was, it is difficult to determine exactly now. Tradition, however, says that it occupied the

western area of the present fort, from the Kalmadgi Gate to the Takht Mahal site, including the

projection on which Virasangayya's temple is now built. The large tank would thus have stood at

the foot of the old fort, which would have been also defended on three sides by natural

precipices. Fragmentary inscriptions, carved blocks of masonry and architectural parts, such as

pillars, capitals, and brackets, have been found in abundance in clearing the above area. The

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tradition is further confirmed by a statement made by Firishta that Ahmad Shah Wall built the

Government House (Dar-ul-Imara) at a site where the old fort of Bidar stood in ancient times.

The Dar-ul-Imara is now called the Takht Mahal or the Throne Palace.

According to Firishta the building of the city and fort of Bidar commenced some time in

A.D. 1429, when the king returned from the conquest of Kherla, and the operations lasted for

nearly three years, for the same author writes that the fort of Bidar was completed in A.D. 1432,

when public rejoicings were held.4 It was built of stone and mortar, and engineers and architects

of various countries were employed on its design and construction. As gunpowder had not yet

come into use in the Deccan, the form of the fort apparently consisted of long stretches of

massive walls defended by a moat which was excavated from the rock on which the fort stood.

The moat was apparently the work of Hindu masons, who from very early times were adept in

carving scarps out of solid rock, while the massive walls constructed of stone and mortar were

designed and built by Persian and Turkish architects who had assembled at the court of Ahmad

shah Wall. The fortifications of Bidar, as the result of an invasion by Sultan Mahmud Khalji of

Malwa, were destroyed and rebuilt during the reign of Nizam Shah Bahmani (A.D. 1461-3), but

perhaps no great change was made in their original character until the time of Muhammad Shah

Bahmani, when gunpowder was used for blowing up walls by laying mines beneath them.

Firishta, in describing the siege of Belgaum by this king in A.D. 1472, observes that when the

garrison thwarted the attempts of the royalists to fill up the moat, they resorted to other devices

and began to dig trenches and lay mines which till then had not been used in the Deccan. Firishta

has further used the words barut ('gunpowder') and top ('gun') in describing the war material and

appliances used in this siege.

Muhammad Shah’s reign was marked by great prosperity, and through the military

genius of Mahmud Gawan, his able general and minister, the boundaries of the Bahmani

kingdom were much widened and the construction and equipment of forts were developed along

scientific lines. On one occasion when the king ordered Mahmud Gawan to repair an old fort

previously built by one of the Delhi kings, he strengthened the defenses and equipped it with

guns and other war apparatus so thoroughly and with such expedition that the king exclaimed

that the Almighty had conferred upon him an incalculable blessing in giving him a servant like

Mahmud Gawan. Although there is no direct reference in contemporary history to the rebuilding

of the defenses of Bidar fort during the reign of Muhammad Shah, yet the facts cited above leave

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no doubt that this king, who was anxious to rebuild even minor forts in his territory, must have

planned afresh and remodeled the fortifications of his capital in view of the new material and

appliances of war which had come into use during his time. There is both historical and

epigraphic evidence to show that some additions to the defenses of the fort were made by

Mahmud Shah Bahmani, but they were apparently of a minor character, for the reign of this king

was disturbed by rebellions at the capital and outside it, and, further, the Baridi ministers held

him completely under their control. Improvements on a large scale, however, may have been

made during the reign of Ali Barid (A.D. 1642-80), who mounted guns, made under his express

command, at various vulnerable points of the fort.

Later, in A.D. 1618, Malik Marjan, the Bijapur governor, repaired the walls and bastions

of the fort, and afterwards Mukhtar Khan al-Husaini, the Mughal commandant, re-erected and

plated and bossed in iron almost all the gates of Bidar, which bear his inscriptions to this day.

Muhammad Salih Kambo, the contemporary historian of Shah Jahan's reign, gives a description

of the fort with certain details, which are true even to-day as regards the general disposition of its

defenses. It is thus clear that since A.D. 1656, when Aurangzeb, as governor of the Deccan,

annexed Bidar to the Mughal kingdom, no substantial change has been made in its fortifications,

which were rebuilt by Muhammad Shah Bahmani under the able superintendence of his general,

Mahmud Gawan, after the use of gunpowder was introduced into the Deccan, although they have

been repaired and slight additions made during the occupation of the fort by rulers of other

dynasties in subsequent years.

Bidar fort is an irregular rhomboid in shape, built on the brink of the plateau with steep

sides towards the north and east. On other sides, where the ground level was not higher than the

adjoining lands, a moat has been excavated in the form of a triple channel with partition walls

hewn out of the solid rock. These rocks after partitions are a special feature of the Bidar fort and

their long stretches present a grim appearance. The rock is laterite, which by weathering has

assumed a dark brown colour. The width of the moat between the glacis and the first partition

wall is 32 feet 6 inches, between the first and second partition-walls 36 feet 4 inches, and

between the second partition-wall and the scarp 41 feet 9 inches. The depth of the moat is 30

feet, and the height of the scarp above the rock-base on which it is built varies from 32 feet 8

inches to 43 feet. The moat and the glacis encircle the fort on all sides, but the rock-partitioned

triple channel exists towards the city side only that is, towards the south-east, the south, and the

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south-west. The moat was apparently kept dry except between the Kalyani Burj and the Old Fort

bastion, where a sluice has been built to fill it from the tank inside the fort. The external

circumference of the defenses of the fort is two and a half miles. There are thirty-seven bastions

and seven gates, besides the main entrance from the city side.

RANGIN MAHAL

Rangin Mahal literally means the 'Colored Palace’, and this name was apparently given to

it on account of its walls being originally decorated with tiles of different hues, traces of which

still exist on the facade of the eastern halls. Near the Gumbad Darwaza a royal tower has existed

perhaps since the time when Ahmad Shah Wali built the fort (A.D. 1429-32). From this tower,

which is mentioned as the Shah Burj in contemporary history, the BaihmanI kings often

reviewed their troops, which assembled outside the gate of the fort. In 892 H. (A.D. 1487) when

a party of Abyssinians and Deccanis revolted against Mahmud Shah Bahmani and tried to

murder him, he took refuge in the Shah Burj. The rebels were subsequently punished, but as the

king had despaired of his life he considered the shelter afforded by the Shah Burj as auspicious,

and he had a lofty palace built in its close vicinity.

The southern apartments of this palace were rebuilt by Ali Barid (A.D. 1642-80), who

adorned them with wood-carving and mother-of-pearl work. In modern times the palace has been

used as the court of the First Talukdar of Bidar, and a veranda and several partition walls have

been built, which not only mar the general appearance of the building, but make it difficult to

trace its original plan. Access to the building is now obtained by two flights of steps which lead

to a landing from which, by passing through some rooms, the interior of the palace is reached.

One of these rooms opens on a veranda which is modern, but there are two halls at its back

towards the east, which from the style of their architecture appear to be of the Bahmani period.

The haU at the northeast end is square in plan, but has a high-vaulted roof which is supported by

squinches in corners. The hall measures 25 feet 4 inches each way at the base, and the domical

ceiling is 23 feet 9 inches above the centre of the floor. The hall has a rectangular projection

towards the east, and a window at the extreme end which opens in the south-eastern wall of the

fort and commands views of the ramparts and the part of the city that is situated on that side. The

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walls of the hall are extremely thick, and the general style of the building gives an effect of

heaviness. To the south of this hall there is another which was originally connected with it by an

opening in the wall on that side. The latter hall also is square in plan, but is smaller than the

former. It measures 18 feet each way, and has a pentagonal projection towards the east with a

window at the end which opens upon the ramparts. This hall is entered from the veranda by an

arch, the proportions of which are rather squat, the span being 11 feet 5 inches and the height up

to the apex 13 feet 5 inches. This hall also seems to be of the Bahmani period, and may have

been added by

Mahmud Shah Bahmani after the revolt of A.D. 1487. It has a rectangular extension

towards the south, which has also an arched opening to the veranda. This narrow room was

utilized either as a toilet chamber or as a wardrobe. From the plan it will be noticed that there are

three small rooms at the southern end of the veranda and two at the northern end. To the west of

the latter there is a double room which opens on the court and has also a door towards the steps.

All of these six rooms are of small dimensions, and their architecture is such that they may

belong to any period, Bahmani, Baridi, or even later. From the court a view of the upper walls of

the palace may be had. These were once richly adorned with tile-work arranged in arch-shaped

and rectangular panels. The colour scheme now visible consists of white patterns on a dark blue

background. There may have been other colours also, but as the tiles have been exposed to the in

clemencies of the weather for several centuries, they have completely faded. The designs consist

of floral and calligraphic devices exhibiting a highly developed technique and refined taste.

THE SHAHI MAIBAKH OR THE ROYAL KITCHEN

This adjoins the Rangin Mahal towards the west and is situated to the left of the road, a

few steps from the venerable banyan tree. The building at one time may have been used for the

royal kitchen, but it is too large to have been originally built for that purpose, and from its plan it

would appear to have been the residence of a prince or of some court dignitary. After the

annexation of Bidar to the Bijapur kingdom in A.D. 1619, Malik Marjan, an Abyssinian general

in the service of the latter kingdom, was appointed governor of Bidar, and he resided in the fort,

apparently in this palace, for there is an inscription on the inner entrance which mentions Malik

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Marjan's name. When first visited the fort in A.D. 1916, the building was used as the District

Jail, The building is entered from the roadside by an arched gateway which leads to an open

court measuring 70 feet 6 inches by 81 feet 8 inches. Along the eastern, western, and northern

sides of this court runs a modern colonnade with masonry piers and semicircular arches. The

south wing of the court is, however, old and comprises an inner gateway and seven rooms with

double apartments. The arches of these rooms are extremely squat in their proportions, each

having a span of 11 feet 2 inches with a height of 11 feet 7 inches only. The arch of the inner

gateway, however, shows a better sense of proportion, its span being 8 feet and its height up to

the apex 14 feet 2 inches. The passage of this gateway is 11 feet wide and 32 feet 9 inches long,

and on either side of it are rooms for guards. The ceiling of the gateway consists of a single

vault. The arches of the guards' rooms are again very squat in their proportions, the span being

18 feet 2 inches, the height from the floor up to the apex 14 feet 9 inches, and the height of the

columns up to the springing-points 5 feet 8 inches. The rooms themselves measure 22 feet 3

inches by 14 feet 10 inches, and they have vaulted ceilings which are almost flat. On passing

through the inner gateway a court is reached which measures 180 feet 5 inches from east to west,

and 67 feet 5 inches from north to south. At the southern end of the court is a spacious platform,

five steps higher than the court level, measuring 51 feet 7 inches in width and 162 feet 2 inches

in length. There is a small cistern in the middle of the platform, and it appears that originally

there were fountains and water-channels in this palace as well. The main building of the palace

faced north, and comprised a series of rooms and chambers with two domical halls, one at the

eastern and one at the western end. The two domical halls are still standing, but the rooms and

chambers in between have been replaced by some modern halls which were erected when the

building was used as the District Jail. The new halls are not in alignment with the old rooms, and

the plan of the building has thus been considerably disturbed. The domical halls are very

massively built. The interiors are star-shaped in plan, comprising a square space in the middle

with projections on all four sides. The middle space measures 21 feet 2 inches each way. There

are spacious arches on all four sides from which the projections start, the span of the arches

being 20 feet 10 inches and the height up to the apex 17 feet 6 inches. There are squinches at the

corners which make the plan of the hall octagonal above the arches, and higher up there are

niches, three in each corner, which make it twenty-four sided, thus passing easily into the

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circular base of the dome above. The shape of the latter gives an impression of heaviness. It is

probable that this palace was originally built by the Bahmani kings.

SHAHI HAMMAM OR THE ROYAL BATH

The road near the north-eastern corner of the Shahi Matbakh enters through an arch in the

enclosure of the Royal Seraglio, locally called the Zanana Mahallat, and passes by the steps of

the Shahi Hamm am, which is situated within the enclosure. The building was, some time ago,

used as the Civil Court and afterwards as the office of the Inspector of Schools, but on the

representation of the Archaeological Department it has recently been made over by the

Government to the latter department for preservation as an ancient monument. During the

occupation of the building by the Civil Court and the office of the Inspector of Schools the

platform in front of the building was extended towards the east and west, and a veranda with

round columns was also constructed in front of the middle part of the building. In the plan

reproduced in Plate XV these modern additions have been omitted. The platform rises to a height

of 4 feet from the road, and has a length of 67 feet from east to west and a width of 61 feet from

north to south. In front of the middle part of the building there is a pavement a little higher than

the platform, measuring 29 feet by 23 feet. Behind the pavement was a double hall with five bays

in each half, the four corner bays being larger than the middle ones. The divisions are arranged

by means of arches which have wide spans and low imposts, a common feature of the

architecture of Bidar. The total length of the hall is 63 feet and the depth 27 feet. The ceiling is

divided into vaults. The hall extends towards the south in the form of two wings, each consisting

of a double apartment with vaulted ceiling. The middle part of the building was apparently used

as the waiting-hall, from which those who wanted to take the bath proceeded to the intermediate

stage, which consists of three apartments, as shown in the plan, adjoining the hall towards the

east. The original roof of the southern two apartments of this stage fell down some time ago, and

the present roof is modern. These three apartments were used for dressing. Beyond this stage was

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another towards the east, consisting of a single domed chamber. Here, the temperature being

warmer, the bathers waited for a few minutes to prepare themselves for the still warmer

atmosphere of the interior. Those who came out of the bath here laid aside their wet clothes and

were provided with towels. The dadoes of this chamber were once adorned with encaustic tiles,

but they have disappeared, and now only the black stone margins, indicating the outlines of the

tile panels, are to be seen.

THE ZANANI MASJID OR THE SOLAH KHAMB MOSQUE

Both these names have been given in comparatively recent times; the first on account of

the building being situated in the Zanana enclosure, adjoining the Lal Bagh towards the west,

and the second on account of the presence of sixteen columns (solah khamb) in the middle part

of the prayer-hall, which was screened off from the rest of the building after the latter had fallen

into ruin. Originally it was the principal mosque, Masjid-i-Jami, of Bidar, and the Friday prayers,

as well as State functions of a religious character, were held here. In A.D. 1656 when

Aurangzeb, as Viceroy of the Deccan from the Imperial Court at Delhi, conquered Bidar, he

hastened to this mosque to have the khutba recited in the name of his father Shah Jahan, as a

proclamation of his sovereignty in the newly acquired territory. Muhammad Salih, the

contemporary historian of Shah Jahan's reign, who has recorded this event, describes the building

as two hundred years old, having been built by the BaihmanI kings. Khafi Khan also, who visited

the Deccan during Aurangzeb's reign and stayed for many years there, does not give the exact

date of the building, but writes that it was constructed by Khan Jahan. As this title was enjoyed

by several ministers of the BaihmanI kings, it is difficult to say precisely which of them erected

the mosque. Luckily the Archaeological Department of Hyderabad, while clearing the debris and

earth from the decayed part of the mosque, has found an inscription which not only gives the

exact date of the building but also the name of the prince in whose regime the mosque was

constructed.

The building has a long front, nearly 310 feet from the north to the south, but as its height

is only 28 feet 6 inches, and all the arched openings of the facade are of a uniform size, there is

considerable monotony, besides an effect of flatness in the general appearance of the building.

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The architect, however, had planned to remove this effect by building a parapet of pleasing

design above the row of front arches and also by giving a high clerestory with windows of

beautiful jali-work round the dome, whilst the dome by itself takes away the impression of

flatness when the building is seen from a distance. But these features are completely lost when

the building is seen from near, and the long stretch of nineteen uniform arches wearies the eye.

The prayer-hall measures 294 feet 9 inches from the north to the south and 80 feet from the east

to the west. The rows of columns divide the prayer-hall into five apartments lengthwise and

nineteen breadth wise, thus making ninety-five bays, but the space of the nine middle bays near

the western end is occupied by a hall which is crowned by a majestic dome. There is a well

beyond the southern wall of the mosque from which water was obtained for the ablutions of the

congregation. Traces of a water channel may still be seen along the top of the western wall of the

mosque. There is also a water reservoir on the roof of the mosque, from which water was

distributed to the cisterns in the ground-floor of the mosque.

TARKASH MAHAL

It was perhaps so styled on account of its having been built for a Turkish wife of the king,

but about this time it appears that a certain conventionality was also observed in giving names to

the royal buildings, for Tarkash Mahals, Gagan Mahals, and Nagina Mahals are mentioned in

contemporary records as the names of palaces at Bijapur, Golconda, and Bidar. The rulers of the

contemporary dynasties at these places evidently vied with one another in the glory of their

architectural works and chose the same names for their palaces as were adopted by their rivals in

the other kingdoms. The Tarkash Mahal at Bidar may have originally been begun by the

Bahmani kings, but the upper parts of the building are decidedly of the Baridi period, and the

palace has undergone so many alterations through the caprice of various rulers at subsequent

periods that it is impossible now to determine its original plan.

The uppermost apartments of the building are approached at the present time from the

steps which are built at the western end of the building and lead also to the roof of the Solah

Khamb mosque. The roof of these apartments has fallen down, but the walls are more or less

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intact and they give an idea of the design of the building. In the middle there was a hall

measuring 28 feet 6 inches in length and 14 feet 6 inches in width. It had arched openings and

was beautifully decorated with tiles and stucco work. There are also a great number of small

arched niches in the walls of this hall, such as we find in the buildings of Jahangir and Shah

Jahan in North India. They may have been used for holding china and sundry articles of toilet,

but apart from this utilitarian purpose their presence detracts from the solidarity of the building

because of their tiny dimensions. The roof of the hall has fallen and originally there was another

apartment above it, the remains of which in the shape of two arches may still be seen. These

arches rise highest among the present buildings of the fort and are seen from a long distance,

representing a distinguishing feature in the panorama of old dark-grey piles of ramparts and

towers. They are also richly decorated with stucco work, and although their spans are a little too

wide in relation to their height, yet their general appearance is very pleasing. There are smaller

rooms on either side of the middle hall, those on the eastern side disfigured by later additions,

but those on the western side more or less intact, and they comprise a square room with two

narrow rooms in the form of corridors in front and behind respectively. The square room

measures 11 feet 10 inches each way, and it was at one time beautifully adorned with encaustic

tiles, traces of which may be seen on the dadoes of the room. The upper parts of the walls and the

ceiling are decorated with cut-plaster work.

THE DIWAN-I-AM OR THE HALL OF PUBLIC AUDIENCE

This building was called the Jali Mahal, on account of some screens of trelliswork which

were visible at the top of the huge pile of debris lying on the site until some twelve years ago.

Since then excavations have been conducted on an extensive scale by the Archaeological

Department of Hyderabad, and they have disclosed not only the plan of the building but also

such remains as reveal, in their architectural and decorative features, the original grandeur of the

whole.

The building is situated to the west of the Zanana enclosure, and it is approached by a road

which proceeds straight from the latter enclosure. The outer wall of the Diwan-i-Am is preserved

up to a considerable height on the southern side, but on the remaining three sides it rises only a

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few feet above the plinth and has been exposed to view by recent excavations. The building has

two entrances, one through the eastern wall and the other through the western, but they do not

face each other. The excavations have exposed to view the original pavement of the eastern

entrance, but the masonry of its outer and inner gateways, which must have comprised large

blocks of carved stone, has all disappeared, perhaps carted away for use in modern buildings.

The entrance on the outer side measures 9 feet in width, but on the inner side it has become

wider, apparently owing to the decay of the side walls at this end.

Passing through the entrance, we approach the court of the building, which measures 166

feet from east to west and 133 feet from north to south. In the latter direction it is, however,

divided into two parts. The southern part is paved and has a width of 96 feet 3 inches. The

northern part is some 16 inches lower than the former and has a width of 36 feet 9 inches only.

The principal hall of the building, which was probably used for public audiences, is on

the southern side and approached by five steps from the pavement. The steps extend along the

entire length of the hall and are built of a black stone of close texture which has kept its beautiful

polish to this day. The steps are, however, not comfortable to climb, being high and also narrow.

But this defect is found in all Indian buildings, whether Buddhist, Brahmanical, or Muslim, down

even to the eighteenth century A.D.

TAKHT MAHAL OR THE THRONE PALACE

The name Takht Mahal is modern, for it is not mentioned in contemporary history,

although the magnificence of the royal palace built by Ahmad Shah al- Wali at Bidar is extolled

by Sayyid Ali Tabataba in his work entitled, Burhan-i- Mahathir. This author mentions a palace

and a forecourt but does not give any name of the palace. The name was apparently given by the

literati of Bidar.

The palace adjoins the audience hall towards the north, and has an imposing entrance facing the

east. The facade is much damaged, but such arches as are intact show strength combined with

beauty in the style of their architecture. They differ in span and also in shape, indicating the

architect's love of variety. The stilt of the apex shows Persian influence, which is also apparent in

the decorative schemes of the building which will be discussed later in this account. The Takht

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Mahal or the Throne Palace was used as a durbar hall, where the installation ceremonies of the

Bahmani and Barid Sultans were celebrated. This Throne Palace at the west end of the Fort is

where the Bidar rulers held private audience. It has a columned hall facing north onto a

rectangular court. Steps to the west of the courtyard lead to various rooms with complicated

plans. Some have remains of granite columns. Apart from a hot water swimming pool that once

existed here, it is the carvings on granite that are significant. While the geometrical figures

signify the Muslim influence, the floral engravings speak of Hindu culture. Discussing the Takht

Mahal Prof. H.K. Sherwani writes: "The arches are all very stilted and this would be sufficient to

prove Iranian influence". The same is also evident from the two bold outlines of the Persian

emblem on each of the Eastern and Northern façades, the lion with the rising sun in the

background, flanking the arch on both sides, all worked in mosaic of beautiful coloured tiles.

3.7.2 GURDWARA NANAK JHIRA SAHIB

Gurdwara Nanak Jhira Sahib is a Sikh historical shrine situated in Bidar, in Karnataka. It

is located at a short distance off one edge of the plateau on which Bidar is located, and there are

sweeping views of the plains as you descend down the road to the present Gurdwara.

History

During his second 'Udasi' (missionary tour) of South India, Guru Nanak after sojourning

through Nagpur and Khandwa visited the ancient Hindu Temple of Om Kareswar on the Narbada

and reached Nanded (where 200 years later Guru Gobind Singh spent his last days). From

Nanded he proceeded towards Hyderabad and Golkonda where he met Muslim saints and then

came to Bidar to meet Pir Jalaluddin and Yakoob Ali.

The Guru accompanied by his companion Mardana stayed in the outskirts of the Bidar

town where 'Nanak Jhira' Gurdwara is now located. Nearby were huts of Muslim fakirs, who

took keen interest in the sermons and teachings of the great Guru. The news soon spread

throughout Bidar and its surrounding areas about the holy Saint of the North and large number of

people started coming to him to have his "Darshan" and seek his blessings. There used to be

acute shortage of drinking water in Bidar. All efforts of the people to dig wells were of no avail.

Even when wells produced water the water was found to be unfit for drinking.

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Bauli Sahib

The Guru was greatly moved by the miserable condition of the people. With divine name

on his lips and the mercy in his heart he touched the hillside with his toe and removed some

rubble from the place. To the utter surprise of all, a fountain of sweet, cool water gushed out of

the hillside. The place soon came to be known as 'Nanak-Jhira'.

A beautiful Gurdwara has now been constructed by the side of the fountain. The water of

the fountain is collected in a small 'Amrit-Khud' built in white marble. There is a free kitchen

(guru ka langar) where free food is given to pilgrims 24 hours night and day. A Sikh museum has

been built in the memory of Guru Tegh Bahadur, depicting the important events of Sikh history

through pictures and paintings. The birthday of Guru Nanak and the Hola Mohalla festival attract

large numbers of devotees from all over India.

At the spot where the spring originated, the management had an Amrit Kund built with

the contributions of devotees. With the water channeled into a sarovar close by, the devotees

now take dips in the sacred water which is thought to cure several ailments.

The management of Gurdwara Sri Nanak Jhira Sahib now runs a free hospital, an engineering

college, a Polytechnic, a college and two schools, one of them being in Hyderabad.

About 4 to 5 lakh (half a million) pilgrims and tourists visit Nanak Jhira every year.

During the three melas held during Holi in March, Dashera in October and Guru Nanak’s

birthday in November, the numbers of visitors swells to about 30,000 a day.

It may be recalled that Bhai Sahib Singh, one of the Panj Piaras (five beloved of Guru Gobind

Singh), hailed from Bidar where he was once a barber. He was the son of Gurunarayana and

Ankamma from Bidar.

Another version of Guru Nanak's visit to Bidar has him visiting a Sufi saint who lived

with his family and followers here - amidst a source of fresh, sweet water - and that is where the

Gurudwara eventually came to be. Whatever the origin, the presence of this important Sikh

shrine and the sizable Sikh presence is one of the many layers of Bidar that we encounter. In the

course of his tours across the area people thronged to hear him. Guru Nanak listened to their

complaints that only brackish water could be found in the area.

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Pir Jalaluddin and his followers from the nearby Muslim monastery also paid obeisance

to the Guru and impressed upon him the need for sweet water in Bidar. In deference to their

wishes, the compassionate Guruji uttering Sat Kartar shifted a stone with his wooden sandal, and

lo and behold out gushed a spring of sweet water that has flowed to this day.

Gurudwara Bidar is one of Holiest Place for Sikhs. Every Year this place attracts lots of

tourists from all parts of the country particularly during the months of November and March.

Legend has it that Saint Guru Nanak visited the place while the land was in the grip of a famine

The Guru performed a miracle at the request of the locals and a spring of water from the laterite

rock mountain burst out. Till this day crystal clear water flows from the laterite trap. The belief is

that drinking of these water cures many ailments.

3.7.3 NARASIMHA JHARNA

The legend goes that, Lord Narasimha after killing Hiranyakashpu, proceeded to kill a

demon named Jalasura. Jalasura was a staunch devotee of Lord Shiva. After he was killed by

Lord Narasimha, Jalasura turns into water starts flowing from Lord's feet. And to this day water

keeps flowing from lord’s feet and fills the cave.

The Cave

So, to reach the lord we will have to wade through a 100 feet long cave, with water about

4 feet deep. Bats hanging from the cave's ceiling add to the thrill. Lighting and ventilation have

been recently installed. The water is a little muddy, since it is flowing water it is not

uncomfortable to walk through it.

At the end of the cave we have Lord Narasimha and also the Shiva linga which Jalasura

was worshiping. There is very less place to stand, around 8 people can see the lord at once. If

there are more people they have to wait in water

3.7.4 PAPNASH SHIVA TEMPLE

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As per the local traditional saying, the Shiva Linga idol in this temple is one of those

installed by Shri RAM during the time of his journey back from Lanka. The location of the

temple in a valley is mesmerizing to the eyes. Every year at the time of Shivratri festival lot of

tourists visit this place. . It is said that till a couple of years ago, during the Shivratri festival

snakes would visit the temple A natural spring flows into a pond in front of the temple which is

called 'Papnasha'.' annihilator of sins ', signifies, it is much resorted to as a place of pilgrimage by

the people of the locality and even by those of distant places. It may be approached by the

Hyderabad-Udgir road by taking a transverse course towards the edge of the plateau from near

the eighty-seventh milestone, and afterwards following the cart-track which goes down to the

valley below and has many abrupt turns and is generally unfit for vehicular traffic owing to being

cut up by rain. The cart-track leads to a pleasant grove in which mango and guava trees abound.

The visitor on arriving will notice a linga fixed to a yoni on a mound under a stately mango-tree.

These symbols, representing the god Siva and his wife Parvati, are made of polished black stone.

On the mound circular masonry work may also be seen, and in the niches formed thereby small

images of Ganesha and some other gods of the Hindu pantheon are installed. Close by a

sculpture, representing two intertwined snakes, is placed under a tree. This symbolizes fecundity,

and is worshipped particularly by those women who desire children. In front of this same

sculpture is the image of a bull carved in stone, and towards its left a small enclosure within

which three lingas fixed to yonis may be observed. At the foot of the scarp is a cistern measuring

16 feet by 14 feet.

On descending five steps the water-level is reached, but as people bathe there in large

numbers with their dhotis on, which generally are not clean, the water of the cistern is unsavory,

although it has a continuous flow and is replenished by a fresh supply from the natural spring in

the bosom of the rock. At a short distance from the cistern are the remains of a hall where

pilgrims take rest and also perform certain rites. The hall measures 27 feet by 19 feet and was

originally divided into six bays, of which only two towards the south-east are intact. In front of

the hall is a pool without any masonry margins. People bathe in this pool also.

Southwards along the water-channel the end of the valley is reached where the scarp has

a semicircular form. There is a natural spring in the rook-bed, and nearby some cells are hewn

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which have irregular plans. There is a double cell facing the west; the outer apartment measures

7 feet 9 inches by 6 feet, while the inner is more commodious, measuring 12 feet 9 inches by 7

feet 6 inches. The cells cut in the northern projection of the scarp are even more irregular in plan;

one of them is L-shaped, while another in the western side of the hill has more or less a square

form.

Towards the north of the glen, as the slopes of the hill afford an abundant supply of water

during the monsoons, the engineers of former days have taken advantage of the natural features

and built a massive dike for the storage of water. The dike is 691 feet in length and has a sluice

in its north-western part. The level of the water is generally 23 feet below the top of the dike, but

during the monsoons it rises considerably, and for the exit of the water the sluice is opened. The

water of the tank is utilized for irrigating crops. In the cold weather, November to February,

ducks and other aquatic birds gather in large swarms around the tank and offer a tempting

opportunity for shooting.

The tank with its dike most probably dates back to pre-Muslim times ; first on account of

its association with the antiquities of Papnas, and secondly because the

Hindu rulers of the Deccan in the eleventh and twelfth centuries A.D. built tanks at many places,

and their dikes show a highly developed skill in this branch of engineering.

3.7.5 BIDRI OR BLACK SILVER ART OF BIDAR

BIDRI ART

India is known as a great melting pot. It assimilates traits from outside, good or bad and gives it

Indian format; be it philosophy, consumer goods, music or arts and crafts.

The art of Bidri belongs to a borrowed and later Indianized form. Inlay or encrusting of one

metal over the other artistically was practiced by Persians and Arabs centuries ago. It is believed

that the inlay work originated in Damascus (Syria) and came to be known as damascene. But

after coming to India during the Muslim rule, it took Indian shape and came to be known as

Bidri work or Art. Bidar (now a district and headquarters in North Karnataka) was a capital of

Bahamanis who ruled from 1347 to 1527 C.E

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Bahmani kings patronized Persian and Arab scholars and craftsmen. Originally it was

used to decorate martial, steel objects like swords and shibboleths. At times verses from the

Holy Quran were inscribed on them. Slowly hukkas, pandaans, spittoons, trays, book holders,

lamp-shades and other artifacts made their appearance with beautiful engravings of silver on

molten black metal.

The art did not die with the fall of the Bahamanis. Baridshahis who succeeded them and

later Nizam of Hyderabad patronized this unique art of Deccan.

Bidri in-lay work requires great skill and concentration and nowadays only few Muslim families

are in this craft which have come down form generations.

There are four stages of making a Bidri artifact. Molten solution of copper and zinc is poured

into clay moulds. The ratio is fixed. When the base is ready, solution of copper sulphate is

applied to give dark surface to the object. The designs are engraved by hand, with delicate

chisels. In the third stage silver sheets are fixed and filed over the designs.

Finally the articles are gently heated and a solution of clay and salammoniac is applied.

Shining silver designs over the jet black piece make unique and marvelous art pieces like

jewelry boxes, ashtrays, kettles, buttons, bowls, knife-holders, clips etc.

The Russian traveler Nikitin who visited Bidar between 1470-74 C.E was enamored of

the Bidri artifacts and carried some to present to his Emperor. Even today "Bidris" occupy a

very high place in arts and crafts of India. But the price of basic materials being high and

government being the main patron, who purchases the artifacts for emporiums, there is no bright

future for this silver lined art. Salarjung Museum (Hyderabad) possesses some of the most

beautiful furniture, kettles and huqqas of the bygone period.

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CHAPTER 4

4.1 FINDINGS

As for our project of II semester we visited Bidar, we conducted survey of the place we

found that Karnataka government changing the face of Bidar as a tourism destination by giving

importance to its major attraction places. Renovation work inside Bidar fort is in progress to

attract the tourist around the world. Bidar tourism department is lacking in tourist research and

identifying the needs of tourist which is a major concern in making Bidar a major tourist

destination. The tourism planning and strategy of marketing in the place is not strategic.

Information about Bidar destination is not available in details on the internet. Bidar tourism

department also lacking in guest surveys to track visitors satisfactions with value and service on

reaching the destination.

Arrangement of security guards is not properly made. Tourism department is also lacking

in creating awareness among locals to protect the monuments.

Bidar has a good transportation facility; it is well connect by road to the major cities.

NH9 which connects Mumbai to Hyderabad passes through the city. There no proper mode of

transportation within the city. Tourist mostly depends upon their self vehicle or alternatives to

reach their places of interest. There is no proper direction boarding to the tourist attractions.

On reaching Bidar the problem of accommodation is always in the mind of tourist, the Guru

Nanak Jhira trust runs guest houses apart from that there are few local Lodges but they do not

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match the standards of modern day. There were no chain hotels/motels in Bidar. Tourists prefer a

day trip to see Bidar.

According to our Survey, the visitors to Bidar attraction places are in between the age of

20 to 40 years, the main motivation of their visit is to do shopping and sightseeing. The most

visited attraction in Bidar is Guru Nanak Jhira and visitors are mostly from Punjab.

4.2 SUGGESTIONS

As we visited Bidar and surveyed the Bidar destination, we would like to give some

suggestions to the Tourism Department of Bidar and Government to improve Bidar as a better

tourism destination.

Improvement in the field of planning and marketing strategy by making tourist

information centers near by the tourist attraction. It is to provide information which are necessary

for the tourist to see the places as soon as they visit the places. Building information counters at

Bus stands and railway stations to assist the tourist. E.g. Reception counters, Visitors and

convention bureau etc.

Good marketing strategy can increase the inflow of tourist from around the world.

Giving advertisement in media will help Bidar to develop as a good tourism destination. Making

some surveys regarding tourist needs and choices, the department can have good contact with

them and their can gradual increase in knowing the tourist requirements and the major

developments depending upon the tourist needs can be developed.

The inflow of tourist at Guru Nanak Jhira is very high because of its popularity and

religious importance. Some measures should be taken to create awareness about the other

attractions in the city. Bidar is rich in its culture and history.

There is lack of awareness about the importance and benefits of tourism among local

people. Recently Bidar Utsav has been organized in the city. Organizing fairs in that the main

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objective should be to target local people and uplift the benefits by tourism. As local people will

be aware of benefits, proper accommodation, security and infrastructure will be developed.

There were no security guards in and around the attraction places to protect the monuments.

The main reason for security is to avoid scratching and writing on the monument, maintaining

cleanliness and proper guidance can be given to tourist by them.

Tourist guide is a person who provides the information correctly and accurately to the

tourist. There were no tourist guides recruiting near the monuments. The aim of the tourist is to

know about the history and importance of the place, they derive satisfaction by this. So well

knowledge tourist guides should be recruited.

Transportation is the major concern for the tourist as they have to travel from one point to

another. Bidar is a big city, there are many options to reach the city but the transportation facility

within the city is less. Local travel agents can help by preparing packages of Bidar who can show

the places in a day. This will help the local people in getting jobs and it will be easy for the

tourist to have a wonderful experience.

Accommodation in Bidar city is does not meet the international standards. There are few

lodges which provide good accommodation facility, but to attract foreign tourist and create

advertisement major players in the hospitality industry should be approached. This would create

advertisement and popularity of the destination. Accommodation plays a major role in making a

destination successful.

The majority of the tourists visiting to Bidar are aged between 20 to 40 years. To

motivate them to visit frequently to Bidar some entertainment and shopping area should be

provided. The advertisement about the Bidri art artifacts will create an opportunity for the

craftsmen to sell their artifacts.

Bidar is a place of social, history and cultural value. Proper utilization of the tourism

resources will help Bidar in becoming a major tourist destination.

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4.3 LIMITATIONS

1. There is limited time, labor and funding.

2. Lack of interaction with the local community.

3. Lack of guidance at most of the places.

4. As we visited Bidar for a day we were unable to collect the brief information.

5. The questionnaire used as survey instrument is limited to self-administered measures.

Respondents may understand or interpret the items asked in the questionnaire differently,

as respondents have different academic background.

6. There were no proper books to refer.

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4.4 CONCLUSION

As per our academic project of MTA II study tour we visited Bidar and chose the same as

my project. We enjoyed a lot in the trip. I came to know about Bidar – its history, culture, life

style and it gave me chance to interact with local people of Bidar. I also came to know about

its importance and role in development of tourism in Karnataka. After conducting survey on

Bidar, I came to know that Bidar has the potential to become one of the major tourist

destinations in India.

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CHAPTER 5

ANNEXURE

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5.1 BIDAR CITY MAP

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5.2 DATA ANALYSIS

CHART 1

52%

37%

7%4%

CHART SHOWING PURPOSE OF THEIR VISIT

Art and Architechture Cultural experienceLeisure and scenic beauty Others

CHART 2

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25%

17%50%

8%

CHART SHOWING SOURCE OF INFORMATION ABOUT THE ATTRACTIONS

Magazines Newspapers Website Others

CHART 3

23%

39%

15%

23%

CHART SHOWING THE AVERAGE AGE OF THE TOURISTS

Below 20 years 21 to 40 years 41 to 60 years 61 years and above

CHART 4

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53%

13%

13%

20%

IS BIDAR A TOURISM DESTINATION

It gives Cultural Experience It gives Peace and Nature Friendly experienceIt gives entertainment Others

CHART 5

36%

18%

36%

9%

CHART SHOWING HOW TOURIST MAKE THEIR TRAVEL ARRANGEMENTS

Yourself Through travel agent Free individual trip Others

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CHART 6

33%

50%

6% 11%

THE MOST VISITED PLACE IN BIDAR

Bidar fort Guru Nanak Jhira Papnash Others

CHART 7

21%

21%

36%

21%

FACILITIES LACKING IN BIDAR

Accommodation Security and Participation of Local PeopleTour Guide Others

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CHART 8

27%

45%

18%9%

RATING OF BIDAR AS A TOURISM DESTINATION BY TOURIST

Excellent Good Poor Cant Say

5.3 BAHMANI REIGN

During the 191 years of Bahmani reign following rulers ruled with Gulbarga and Bidar as their capital:

GULBARGA PERIOD (75 YEARS)

1. Ala-ud-din Hasan Bahman Shah 1347 - 1358 AD

2. Muhammad I 1358 - 1375 AD

3. Ala-ud-din Mujahid Shah 1375 - 1378 AD

4. Daud Shah I 1378 - 1378 AD

5. Muhammad II 1378 - 1397 AD

6. Ghiyas-ud-din Tahmatan Shah 1397 - 1397 AD

7. Shams-ud-din Daud Shah II 1397 - 1397 AD

8. Taj-ud-din Firoz Shah 1397 - 1422 AD

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BIDAR PERIOD (116 YEARS)

9. Shihab-ud-din Ahmad Shah I 1422 - 1436 AD

10. Ala-ud-din Ahmad Shah II 1436 - 1458 AD

11. Ala-ud-din Humayun Shah 1458 - 1461 AD

12. Nizam-ud-din Ahmad Shah III 1461 - 1463 AD

13. Shams-ud-din Muhammad Shah III 1463 - 1482 AD

14. Shihab-ud-din Mahmud 1482 - 1518 AD

15. Ahmad Shah IV 1518 - 1520 AD

16. Ala-ud-din Shah 1520 - 1523 AD

17. Wai-ullah Shah 1523 - 1526 AD

18. Kalim-ullah Shah 1526 - 1538 AD

5.4 FAMILY TREE OF BAHMANI KINGS

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Ala-ud-din Hasan Bahman Shah( 1) Muhammad I (2)

Mujahid (3)

Ruh Pawar Agah

Fath Khan

MahmudDawud I (4)

Muhammad II (5)Tahamatan (6)

Dawud II (7)

Daughter

Daughter

Khunza Sultan

AhmadAhmad I (9)

Ahmad II (10)Humayun (11)Hamida Sultan

Ahmad III (12)

Muhammad III (13)Khunza Nizam

Mahmud (14)Ahmad IV (15)Ala-ud-din (16)

Waliyul-Lah (17)Kalim-ullah (18)

Khunza fatima

Jamashid

Ahmad

Hasan

Yahya

Daughter

Khunza Humaira

Mahmud

Dawud

Muhammad

Hasan

Daughter

Daughter

Daughter

Firoz (8)Hasan

Daughter

Mubarak

Dawud


5.5 BIDAR FORT

FORT ENTERANCE

RANGIN MAHAL

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ENTERANCE INSIDE RANGIN MAHAL

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WOODEN CARVING ON THE ROOF

ROYAL KITCHEN

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THE SOLAH KHAMB MOSQUE/ THE ZANANI MASJID

TAKHT MAHAL OR THE THRONE PALACE

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THE DIWAN-I-AM OR THE HALL OF PUBLIC AUDIENCE

5.6 GURUDWARA NANAK JHIRA SAHIB

GURU DWARA

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AMRIT KUND

WATER IN AMRIT KUND

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PLACE OF WORKSHIP

5.7 NARSIMHA JHARNA CAVE TEMPLE

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ENTERANCE

ENTERANCE OF CAVE

THE CAVE

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IDOL OF LORD NARSIMHA INSIDE THE CAVE

5.8 PAPNASH TEMPLE

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FAR VIEW OF TEMPLE

SHIVALINGA INSIDE THE TEMPLE

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WATER SPRING NEAR THE TEMPLE

5.9 QUESTIONNAIRE

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P.G. Department in Tourism

Sharanabasaveshwar College of Arts

Gulbarga

TO THE TOURIST:

1. Name of Individual: __________________________________

2. Occupation: ___________________________________

3. Sex

a) Male ( )

b) Female ( )

4. Age

a) Below 20 Years ( )

b) 21 to 40 Years ( )

c) 40 to 60 Years ( )

d) 60 Years and Above ( )

5. Education Qualification

a) Degree ( )

b) PUC/SSLC ( )

c) Higher Primary School ( )

d) If any others, specify..................................

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6. How do you feel about Bidar as a tourism destination?

a) It gives the cultural experience ( )

b) It gives the peace and nature friendly experience ( )

c) It gives entertainment ( )

d) If any other specify………………………………..

7. How do you make your travel arrangement?

a) Yourself ( )

b) Through travel agent ( )

c) Free Individual Trip ( )

d) If any others, specify.................................................

8. Why do you visit Bidar for?

a) Art and Architecture ( )

b) Cultural experience ( )

c) Leisure and Scenic beauty ( )

d) If others please specify……………………………….

9. What is your source of information about the attraction in Bidar?

a) Magazines ( )

b) News papers ( )

c) Web site. ( )

d) If any please specify……………………………..

10. Which place has attracted you more in Bidar District?

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a) Bidar Fort ( )

b) Guru Nanak Jhira ( )

c) PapNash ( )

d) If others, specify…………………………………

11. What are the facilities lacking in the destination?

a) Accommodation ( )

b) Security and participation of the local people ( )

c) Tour guide. ( )

d) If other specify…………………………………

12. How do you grade the tourism in the Bidar District?

a) Excellence. ( )

b) Good. ( )

c) Poor. ( )

d) If any specify.................................................................

13. If you have any suggestions to develop Bidar tourism please specify

………………………………………………………………………....

………………………………………………………………………...

…………………………………………………………………………

….……………………………………………………………………...

Thank You Signature

QUESTIONNAIRE ANSWERED BY A FOREIGN TOURIST

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QUESTIONNAIRE ANSWERED BY DOMESTIC TOURIST

BIBLOGRAPHY

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Antiquities of Bidar, by Yazdani, 1914, Oxford University Press London

Bidar its history and monuments, (Re-print) by Yazdani, 1915, Oxford University Press London

Bahmanis of the Deccan, by Sherwani, Hyderabad, 1953 Manager of Publications (Hyderabad, Deccan)

www.bidar.nic.in

www.bidartourism.com

www. kamat .com

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http://www.kamat.com/

http://www.bidartourism.com/

http://www.bidar.nic.in/

bidar as a tourism destination

Documents

bidar tourism

bidar sultanate

primary data

hyderabad state

g e bidar

historic city of bidar

secondary data secondary

hyderabad karnataka