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www.mycheridiamonds.co.za

SA Diamond Centre: 011 334 8925/6 Cell: 082 947 6522 Email: [email protected]

- MARCH 2016 -

Sancia Mincher: +27 82 498 6352 | [email protected] | www.jewellersnetwork.co.za | PO Box 525 Fourways North 2086

All our diamonds are conflict free, best prices guaranteed!

HEAD OFFICE: West Tower, 3rd Floor, 27 Ridge Road, Park Town, JHB | TEL: +27 (0)11 484 7205 | EMAIL: [email protected] CAPE TOWN , GARDEN ROUTE & DURBAN OFFICE: 170 Buitengracht street, Cape Town | TEL: +27 (0)21 424 2002

Tomer Doron: +27 (0)83 399 9769 | [email protected] | [email protected]

JEWEL TRADER - 3 - MARCH - 2016JEWEL TRADER - 2 - MARCH - 2016

CONTENTS MARCH 2016

JEWELLERY NETWORK NEWS

7

FEATURED ARTICLE

Hong Kong International Twin Jewellery Shows 2016

8

FEATURED ARTICLE

Phenomenal Gemstones BY ARTHUR THOMAS GEMS

16

FEATURED ARTICLE

Pearls of Creation, A-Z of PearlsBY MARGE DAWSON

22

FEATURED ARTICLE

Gemstone Enhancement CodesBY AFRICAN GEMMOLOGICAL LABORATORY

26

FEATURED ARTICLE

Protea Diamonds Cape Town

30

Sancia Mincher:

Cell: +27 82 498 6352

Fax: +27 86 508 5705

Office: +27 72 757 0615

Email: [email protected]

Website: www.jewellersnetwork.co.za

Postal Address: PO Box 525 Fourways North 2086

PAGE8

JEWEL TRADER - 4 - MARCH - 2016 JEWEL TRADER - 5 - MARCH - 2016

WE WOULD LIKE TO

WELCOME

MELANIE BARNARD

Sales Representative

MELANIE BARNARD RECENTLY JOINED THE

JEWELLERS NETWORK TEAM AS A SALES

REPRESENTATIVE, BRINGING WITH HER

THE COLLECTIVE EXPERIENCE AND INSIGHT

GAINED FROM WORKING WITHIN THE FIELDS

OF MARKETING AND SALES IN A VARIETY OF

INDUSTRIES.

Her ultimate passion lies with the arts, which has cultivated and nurtured a deep appreciation for the value attached to the creations of people – be it sculpture, music as well as business.

This appreciation is what ultimately influenc-es and drives her in her approach to sales. She believes that every client should be approached on an individual and specialised level in order in order to ensure a unique and unequalled service delivery experience.

—

“To win in the marketplace you must

first win in the workplace.”

~ Doug Conant ~

JEWELLERY NETWORK NEWS --


THE GALA DINNER (TOP LEFT) IS A HIGHLIGHT OF THE HONG KONG INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY SHOW. LOCAL ARTISTS VIVIEN

YEO (RIGHT) AND JESSIE SHUM (BELOW LEFT) ATTEND THE GALA DINNER ON THE FIRST EVENING OF THE JEWELLERY SHOW.

- FEATURED ARTICLE -

HONG KONG INTERNATIONAL

TWIN JEWELLERY SHOWS 2016

T

In terms of product materials, half of the respondents expect Gold- Karat white to be the most popular this year, followed by Gold - Karat rose (38%) and Gold- Karat yellow (31%).

For gemstones, diamond (54%) remains the top choice, followed by pearl (17%) and ruby (15%).

For product categories, survey respondents are mostly optimistic about the prospects for trendy & fashion jewellery followed by precious jewellery and jewellery for weddings and special occasions.

The survey also charted the industry’s views on business operation this year. Here, 43 percent of respondents expect that the major challenge will come from increases in operating costs, followed by sluggish mature markets (40%) and price fluctuations of raw materials (32%).*

The survey also showed that the majority of buy-ers have a positive impression of Hong Kong’s po-sition as a jewellery marketplace and a high regard for Hong Kong suppliers. Seventy-three per cent of respondents see Hong Kong as an ideal or very ideal market to source suitable suppliers.

Buyers are also satisfied with Hong Kong jewel-lery suppliers, with a 90 per cent satisfaction rate in terms of quality, followed by design & technolo-gy (83%), variety (82%), craftsmanship (79%), and services (78%).

The two concurrent fairs featured more than 4,380 exhibitors from 54 countries and regions, and at-tracted over 80,000 buyers from 147 countries and regions, up 5.4 per cent over last year.

More than 31,000 buyers visited the Diamond, Gem & Pearl Show at AsiaWorld-Expo (1-5 March), while over 49,000 visitors attended the Jewellery Show at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibi-tion Centre (3-7 March). Both events are organsied by the Hong Kong Trade Development Council (HKTDC).

“Despite global economic challenges, the two shows continued to attract local and overseas buyers,” said Benjamin Chau, Deputy Executive Director, HKTDC. “This demonstrates the international significance of the two shows, which form the world’s largest jewellery marketplace, reinforcing Hong Kong’s position as a proven global sourcing hub for the industry.”

Among overseas buyers, attendance from the Chinese mainland, India, the Philippines, Vietnam, the UK and Malaysia recorded significant growth.

INDUSTRY EXPECTS STEADY SALES THIS YEAR; HONG KONG SUPPLIERS RATED HIGHLY

The HKTDC commissioned an independent onsite survey during the two shows, interviewing more than 1,200 buyers and exhibitors about their views on market prospects, products and industry trends.

The survey found that nearly half (47%) of the re-spondents expect overall sales this year to be steady, while 15 per cent expect an increase, and 38 per cent predict a decrease in sales. Regarding expectations for retail prices, 64 per cent of respondents expect prices to remain steady.

Apart from Hong Kong, respondents are most optimistic about the Chinese mainland market, followed by North America and Western Europe.

HE THIRD HONG KONG INTERNATIONAL DIAMOND, GEM & PEARL SHOW AND THE 33RD HONG KONG INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY SHOW HAVE CONCLUDED SUCCESSFULLY.THE HONG KONG INTERNATIONAL DIAMOND, GEM & PEARL SHOW (ABOVE) AND THE HONG KONG INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY

SHOW (BELOW) GATHER A TOTAL OF MORE THAN 4,380 EXHIBITORS FROM 54 COUNTRIES AND REGIONS, FORMING THE WORLD’S

LARGEST JEWELLERY MARKETPLACE

THE THIRD HONG KONG INTERNATIONAL DIAMOND, GEM &

PEARL SHOW AND THE 33RD HONG KONG INTERNATIONAL

JEWELLERY SHOW ATTRACT MORE THAN 80,000 BUYERS

FROM 147 COUNTRIES AND REGIONS


BUSINESS BEATS EXPECTATION FOR LOCAL AND INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITORS

The two shows serve as a sourcing hub for global jewellery suppliers and buyers and help them expand their market.

The Japanese exhibitor Crossfor Co. brought their patented “Dancing Stone” design to the show. Hidetaka Dobashi, CEO of the company, stated that during the show they had found 15-to-20 potential licensees from Europe, Hong Kong and the United States, and already signed licensing agreements with some of them.

Customers from Europe and South-east Asia had placed orders worth US$200,000 in total on just the first two days, exceeding the company’s expectations.

Alexander Leuenberger, CEO, ALine GmbH, Switzerland, has participated in every Hong Kong International Diamond, Gem & Pearl Show so far. He noted that, besides regular customers from France and the United Kingdom visiting them at the fairground to negotiate new orders, they also established contact with new customers from Hong Kong and the Chinese mainland. He believes that Hong Kong is an important hub for the company to expand their presence in Asia.

Vipul Sutariya, Director of Sales & Marketing of local exhibitor Dharam, said that they had met a number of buyers from the Chinese mainland, Australia, Indonesia, Thailand, Korea, Taiwan and the US, with some of them placing orders on the spot. He be-lieved the business generated was even better than last year.

OVERSEAS BUYERS: ABUNDANT OPTIONS AT THE SHOW

Increasing demand for jewellery in Asia and the Chinese mainland is a motivating force for buyers in the region.

Cao Ying, from Dalian Friendship Shopping Center, said he was particularly looking for products decorated with rubies, sapphires and pearls, and had found five-to-six poten-tial suppliers, mainly from Hong Kong.

Visiting the Diamond, Gem & Pearl Show for the first time, Kirnesh Jain, Owner, Kamirus LLC, Russia, said that they had made contact with two exhibitors from Israel and India, and anticipated an order worth some US$150,000.

ITALIAN TRADE AGENCY AND ASSOCORAL, NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF CORAL,

CAMEO AND RELATED MATERIAL MANUFACTURERS ORGANISE TIMELESS

SEDUCTION CORAL AND CAMEO BETWEEN MEMORY AND MODERNITY (ABOVE)

TO SHOWCASE HIGH-END CORAL AND CAMEO JEWELLERY. SEMINARS ON THE

TOPIC WERE ALSO HELD DURING THE TWIN SHOWS

Anand Datwani, Founder & CEO, KYRA Diamonds Fzco, UAE, said the show helped him identify trends for the coming year. He would place orders worth more than US$200,000 for engagement rings and wedding rings at the Jewellery Show, and bought US$500,000 worth of loose diamonds at the Diamond, Gem & Pearl Show.

Visiting the Jewellery Show for the first time, Jason Paul Allum, Director, Allum & Sidaway Ltd, from the UK was impressed by the scale of the show and the variety of exhibits. He said the Jewellery Show is the best amongst those he has visited and he will place orders worth US$100,000 of diamond rings at the Jewellery Show to meet strong demand for engagement and wedding rings in the market.

STAYING ABREAST OF INDUSTRY TRENDS AND BUILDING NETWORKS

Other than providing a first-class platform for exhibitors and buyers to promote their products and place orders, the HKTDC also promotes intelligence-sharing about the industry and the market during its events.

During the jewellery fairs, networking recep-tions enabled industry players to meet new contacts; seminars shed light on trends in technology, materials and products; and jewellery parades presented dazzling de-signs to buyers and stakeholders.

A total of 35 activities were organised during the twin shows and attracted more than 5,000 participants.



CHAINCHAIN


PHENOMENAL GEMSTONES

OPTICAL PHENOMENA IN GEMSTONES

MAY TAKE A NUMBER OF FORMS

A gem exhibiting a billowy floating light that appears to emanated from below its surface is displaying adularescence. This term is derived from “adularia” the historical name for moonstone. “Schiller” is another term that may also be employed to describe this effect that is the result of the presence of fine lamellar twinning within the stone.

The inclusion of masses of small glittering platelets, often of a metallic nature, serves to create the sparkling effect seen in aventurine, sunstone etc and known as adventurescence. Chrome-rich fuchsite mica is respon-sible for the emerald green colour and the sparkling effect to be seen in aventurine quartz.

Goldstone is a man-made material that is often employed as a stimulant for sunstone. It consists of glass in various colours filled with countless minute copper platelets. Goldstone was created serendipitously in Venice when a vessel containing copper fillings was accidentally dropped into a vat of molten glass.

Adularescence (MOONSTONE)

Aventurescence (SUNSTONE)

The cat’s-eye effect in a stone indicates the presence of densely packed fine parallel needles. If a gem is simply described as “cat’s-eye” this indicates that it has been cut from chrysoberyl, the mineral that yields the finest cat’s eye gems. If a point light-source is used to side-light a golden-yellow cat’s eye gem it will often produce the optical phenomena termed “milk and honey.” Many gems may yield specimens capable of producing a good cat’s-eye effect, amongst them, apatite, beryl, opal, quartz, sillimanite and tourmaline.

Chatoyancy (ACTINOLITE)

ALEXANDRITE,

TUNGSTEN LIGHT

Chrysoberyl also affords the finest specimens of another optical phenomena, colour-change.

Alexandrite gems appear green when seen in daylight but they are purplish-red in incandescent light. Many gems can exhibit colour change and certain members of the garnet family, diaspore (zultanite), sapphire and spinel may even show an alexandrite like colour-change to some degree but seldom to the extent of true alexandrite.

Colour-change (ALEXANDRITE CHRYSOBERYL)

ALEXANDRITE, DAYLIGHT

Irridescence is a multicoloured, surface effect that is caused by diffraction. A prism effect is created splitting white light into spectral colours when it passes through thin layers of material that differ in refractive index. Fire agate gets its irridescence from thin coatings of limonite (an iron oxide) over is botryoidal surfaces. Fine specimens enjoy a good demand.

Play of colour involves shifting patches of spectral colour seen either within or on the surface of an opal. Opal is composed of closely stacked spheres of cristobalite silica. The spaces between the spheres act as diffraction gratings splitting the light into spectral hues and the layered structure creates interference.

The light reflected from the various layers becomes out of sync, waves overlap, reinforcing some colour and decreasing or removing others. The colours that can be seen is a factor directly related to the size of the spheres. The spheres in the blue range are smaller and those in the red range are larger.

Play of colour (OPAL)

Light is split into a fascinating display of spectral colours by the ultra-fine structural bands of an iris agate.

Iris Agate

Irridescence (FIRE AGATE)

A form of iridescence labradorescence is the result of microscopically thin layers of lamellar twining in this variety of feldspar. Since the effect is highly directional careful orientation of the rough is essential.

LabradoriteA delicate, shifting, iridescent layer, the orient of a pearl is quite distinct from its basic body hue or its lustre. Most pearls from both marine and fresh-water sources show a reasonable degree of lustre. However only fine pearls usually from marine sources display a market degree of orient.

Orient

Fine acicular inclusions, that are oriented to the stone’s crystal structure, are responsible for creating asterism in gemstones.

For the effect to be seen at its best cabochons must be correctly oriented and cut with a relatively high dome. Rose quartz asteria are frequently backed in blue or red to simulate star corundum.

Asterism (RUBY, SAPPHIRE, DIOPSIDE)

STAR RUBY STAR SAPPHIRE STAR DIOPSIDE

SYNTHETIC

STAR-RUBY

SYNTHETIC

SAPPHIRE

ROSE

QUARTZ STAR

ROSE

QUARTZ STAR



Nandi Bowker +27 11 011 9142 [email protected] | Kim Goeller +27 11 011 9143 [email protected]

At the very heart of Intercolour lies the perfect gem.

It is of the earth - a miracle of dirt and water.

This stone has taken thousands of years to form,

and will last forever. It is not just a thing of beauty –

each gem has its own unique story shrouded in mystery, romance

and adventure. From the ground to our collection

it would have changed hands several times -

finally finding its home with our client.

Here it realises its real value – either as an investment

or a lasting sentiment.

For over 30 years Intercolour has been known as a purveyor

of fine gemstones, and that legacy continues. In 2016, Kim Goeller and

Nandi Bowker, who curate Intercolour’s collection of gems,

remain passionate about the product they source and the raw nature of each stone.

The gemstones in Intercolour‘s hand-selected collection are pure and classic,

and as they each have their own story, these beautiful

pieces truly speak for themselves.


Oysters, Mussels, Conch, Clams and Abalone all produce cultured or natural pearls.

This 2nd edition includes additional valuable information and pictures of the seven vastly different pearl farms, and many different interesting subjects which were added to the History section. Many of the beautiful pictures were generously supplied by the farmers.

In 2014, I received a BRONZE AWARD for my book from the Jenkins Group in the USA, in the category of Nature Conservation. This was the best news ever, and a great honor.

“Pearls of Creation, A-Z of Pearls” is a unique book written in an easy-to-read format, which also makes a wonderful gift for anyone who loves pearls.

includes a comprehensive section, Aba-lone - Zooplankton, which is fully cross- referenced, and contains many interesting and beautiful color pictures throughout. It also contains a history of Pearl Farms, William Saville-Kent, ‘Pearly Kings & Queens’, and more stories of general interest.

My background includes approximately 51 years in Direct Marketing in various fields. The best of all was the 3 years of marketing “Pearls in the Oyster” where my passion for pearls grew and has never waned in all the years since.

I had decided early on, that I wanted to write a handbook and a Dictionary of pearls. For over 30 of those years I collected interesting data on Pearls even visiting three pearl farms, one freshwater farm in the USA, the beautiful Paua Abalone farm in Christ Church, New Zealand, the Paspaley pearl Company in Australia, all cultivating beautiful, vastly different varieties of pearls.

My 1st edition of “Pearls of Creation” was a combination of all the data I had collected at that stage, and I self-published it in 2004, in South Africa and marketed it myself successfully by doing talks to all who were interested in pearls, even going live on TV to talk about my book. This edition only contained three pearl farms.

My success encouraged me to carry on gathering information and “Pearls of Creation” 2nd Edition was completed in 2012.

This edition highlights the dedication and passion of six incredible, world renowned, “Award winning” pearl farmers, who cultivate a variety of different, beautiful, natural col-ored pearls - Pearls Fiji, Pearls Micronesia, Paspaley in Australia, Jewelmer in the Philip-pines, Eyris Mabé in New Zealand, American Pearl Company Inc. in Nashville, TN, USA.

Also included in the book are the Conch pearls being cultivated by the Florida Atlantic University’s Harbor Branch, Oceanographic Institute in the USA.

PEARLS OF CREATION, A-Z OF PEARLS

by Marge Dawson

M

PRINTED BOOK AND E-BOOK AVAILABLE ON

WWW.AMAZON.COM /

WWW.BARNESANDNOBEL.COM

Please visit my website:

www.pearlscreation.com

www.Pinterest.com/1000pearls/

y non-fiction 330 page book, “Pearls of Creation, A-Z of Pearls” will appeal to readers of all ages and genre, including libraries, jewelers and gemologists. With nu-merous different facts about pearls and many interest-ing true stories of general interest, this book is a tribute to God’s incredible Creation of the waters of the World, and the life therein.

BLACK TAHITIAN PEARL NECKLACES

ON OYSTER SHELL

EYRIS BLUE PEARL ON ABALONE AND CUT

OFF READY TO MAKE JEWELRY

LEFT: MICRONESIA BLUE PEARLS-LE COLLIER,

RIGHT: NATURAL BLUE BAROQUE PEARLS

PEARLS FIJI

LEFT: SOUFFLE FRESHWATER PEARLS

CHINA, RIGHT: PERFECT SPHERICAL

SOUTH SEA PEARLS

‘Pearls of Creation, A-Z of Pearls’



Indicates a gem that is in its natural state with no en-hancement. Gems that are seldom if ever subjected to enhancement include most members of the garnet family, peridot and spinel.

GEMSTONE ENHANCEMENT CODESThe following code letters are employed in gem certification in order to indicate the nature of any treatments that may have been applied to the gemstone to enhanced its colour, appearance or durability.

N-

Gems in this group are routinely treated. This in-cludes aquamarine (heated to remove greenish el-ement), citrine (often derived by heating amethyst), onyx (blackened by sugar and sulphuric acid treat-ment) and tanzanite (heated to remove brown ele-ment).

E-

A stone that has been assembled from two or more pieces for example garnet-topped doublets, opal dou-blets and triplets.

ASBL-

Chemicals have been used to bleach or remove the gemstone’s colour. It should be noted that marine pearls are generally bleached to remove a prevalent greenish element.

B-

Films or coatings have been employed to improve the stone’s appearance. Mystic topaz, aqua-aura quartz (gold).

C-

A coloured dye has been used to improve the exist-ing hue of a stone or give it a new colour. Lapis-lazuli, quartz etc.

D-

This indicates the presence of solidified flux or similar colourless substances visible under proper illumina-tion and 10x magnification. e.g Fracture-filled dia-mond. Look for flash effect (see image), flux-healed

F-

Heat has been employed to alter colour, clarity or phe-nomena. Residues not visible when properly illumi-nated and examined under 10x magnification. Ruby, sapphire, Paraiba tourmaline etc.

H-

Insignificant residues detected.H(A)-

Minor residues detected.H(B)-

Significant residues detected. H(C)-

Lead glass filled e.g. Frequently encountered in ruby. Look for lilac flash and bubbles in trans-mitted light, spider-web appearance of exposed glass filled fractures in incident light.

H(D)-

Intentional filling of surface reaching cavities to improve durability, appearance and/or weight. Polymer filling of emerald

I-

Use of a laser and sometimes chemicals in or-der to reach and alter inclusions. This process is frequently employed with diamond.

L-

Filling of surface reaching cavities with a colour-less oil or similar substance to improve appear-ance. Emerald

O-

Irradiation employed to alter a gemstone’s co-lour. Morganite, diamond, spodumene, topaz.

R-

Diffusion, this method employs chemicals and high heat to introduce an ultra-thin layer of co-lour. This treatment is most frequently encoun-tered in sapphire.

U-

Waxing of lapis lazuli, turquoise etc. W-

HEAT-TREATED

TOURMALINE

MYSTIC TOPAZ COATED TOPAZ RUBY

GLASS-FILLED

IRRADIATED

TOPAZ

BURNT

AMETHYST

SMOKE-

TREATED OPAL

OPAL

DOUBLET

FRACTURE-FILLED

DIAMOND

DYED QUARTZ POLYMER-FILLED

EMERALD

FLUX HEALED

RUBY

LILAC FLASH

AND BUBBLES IN

GLASS-FILLED

RUBY

CELL: 082 490 0219 TEL: 011 465 0208

EMAIL: [email protected] WEB: WWW.AGEMLAB.CO.ZA

ADDRESS: SUITE 8, 4TH FLOOR, BLOCK E, THE PIVOT OFFICE PARK,

MONTECASINO, FOURWAYS, JHB, SA, 2055



It is also the experience that the staff have on a day to day basis which translates into the energy that the customers feel and the impact that that office has on its areas of influence

Be it customers, staff or surrounding community, Tomer Doron believes in uplifting and positively in-fluencing his surroundings.

“All staff spend the majority of their day with us, our customers do too and our immediate surroundings reflect our influence. Positive, neg-ative or ambivalent attitudes and

actions all have consequences” - Tomer

Richard Branson says “Customers don’t come first, staff comes first. Look after your staff and they will look after your customers” .

Tomer’s strategy is to create the right culture at the office. “Hire the right people for the right job and most of all, treat them right”

Tomer has just been appointed for the 2nd year in a row to the executive committee of the Diamond Dealers Club of South Africa. His portfolio, Social Corporate Responsibility and Entertainment.

The Club has been formed to foster the interests of the diamond, precious stones and jewellery industries and trade.

To provide a meeting place in the manner of an exchange or bourse for the conducting of business amongst members of such industries and trade. To serve as a social meeting place for members and to provide the customary ameni-ties of a social club.

To protect the interests of members and to regulate the conduct of members and make rules in regard thereto (source: http://www.diamonddealers.co.za)

The Diamond Dealers Club of South Africa in its mandate to foster the interests of the diamond, precious stones and jewellery industries supports various charitable causes and has annual drives to collect funds from its members to distribute.

Tomer heads up this portfolio and is passionate about specifically supporting local initiatives. Some of the past recipients have been FeedSA, Guild Cottage and Rainbow of Hope

Tomer has brought this passion with him to his role in managing the Protea Diamonds Cape Town branch and all the staff are on board.

“Protea Diamonds Cape Town staff selects a new charity or cause to support every month and we encourage our customers to join us” – Tomer

Some of the past charities and initiatives supported over the last 9 months since Tomer took over running the Protea Diamonds Cape Town branch are: Operation Hydrate (distributes water collected to drought stricken areas), Safe Cities (supplies housing and social services to homeless youth) and Handbags of hope (supporting rape victims and victims of child abuse).

PROTEA DIAMONDSCape Town

We will continue to try and make

a difference and to encourage

others to join us“

“

How do they do it?

What makes a successful business? Is it it the turnover or the GP? Customer satisfaction? Well yes but….



TM

TM jewellery.

[email protected] C +27 82 601 [email protected] C +27 83 231 8919

P.O Box 85084, Emmarentia, 2029 T +27 11 446 5900 F +27 86 614 7433

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